La Casa de los Dioses

Those donation pilgrim rest stops I mentioned? This was by far the best and coolest yet. It was at the top of a hill, about 6km out of Astorga, and like an actual oasis. Approaching, a man from the table stood up and started hustling down the road towards me - it was Luca! Haven't seen him since Zubiri, when he didn't have a beard, and assumed he'd be long gone by now. A nice surprise.

The place is run by three predictably alternative guys (one Jason Momoa impersonator and one Italian in Thai fisherman trousers with a bird on a leash) who live behind it. There's no running water but there is a yurt and I suspect a fair amount of recreational drugs. I stayed there drinking coffee and eating boiled eggs for like an hour. What a blessing.Read more