Sansaro Cafe and Guesthouse

Options for tonight were limited to a spare bedroom in the family home adjoined to a cute yoga mum's cafe, or a very rural indeed, possibly no electricity homestead. I think James chose well, and I doubled down on that when I saw Haru, the sweet hound that lives here.

We got in about 5.30 so as the host greeted us she suggested we whip up to the onsen before dinner at 7. There's no bathroom here (or not for guests anyway) so a ticket to the local baths is included.

We knew this in advance and were too tired to overthink so dawdled up past the primary school to scrub and soak in what turned out to be glorious surrounds. There was an indoor and outdoor section, and I do recommend looking up at the mountains at dusk from a warm bath.

When you go to an onsen the first step is washing yourself, there's a row of little stools and handheld shower heads and/or taps and buckets, and soaps and shampoos, and you are expected to be clean as before you actually get in the water. In the change room there was a cot and dedicated baby towels, I assume that's for if you wash your baby there I can't imagine they're expected to meditate in the springs.Read more