Santa Maria albergue

I had heard, on the pilgrim grapevine, that there was an albergue in Carrion de los Condes run by volunteer nuns, who led a musical gathering every evening that was simply not to be missed.

I was there waiting with about 8 others when the nuns opened the doors in the afternoon, and I could tell immediately that this was a special place. They invited us in, sat us down, served us tea in little glass cups. There was a nun from England, one from Peru, one from Ireland, one who was Spanish but living in California, and two male volunteers from Seville. The nuns chatted happily with those waiting, while the Seville chaps checked us in.

Later that evening, before mass, they gathered everybody together - sitting on benches, the floor, little stools, and up the staircase, for some songs. The nun from Peru played acoustic guitar with the voice of an angel, as we tried earnestly to sing along off the lyric sheets handed around. Between songs the Irish nun acted as translator for Peru, and they were an extremely warm, down to earth, funny pair.

The floor was then opened up for any musical pilgrims who wished to share a song. A young girl from Belgium went first, playing guitar and singing a song she wrote, then a man from Korea, and then a young girl from China. All were wonderful, but the Belgian girl left a dozen people around the room in tears; she was very, very good, and her song was one she had written to her 'inner child', reminding her that she was loved. Her partner, sitting across the room on the floor, provided the harmony.

After, the nuns invited us to mass, saying quite charmingly that this priest is very punctual and they often have to run, but let's all go along! At the end, there was a pilgrim blessing and each one of us received a little handmade star - coloured and cut out of card by the nuns. For us to keep and carry with us, reminding us that "humans are the light of the world, and in the darkest times the stars shine the brightest".

Me and my mushy heart.Read more