Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

What a fucking day.

Today has been fever dream magic. I am also writing this 3 wines deep so let's see how it comes out.

I think the clue on how the next 24 hours was gonna play out came in the night, as I experienced a very sweaty sleep filled with nightmares - great omens!! 👍👍 Being busy in dreamland, I slept in slightly and it was 8.10am before I hit the streets.

Today was 20km, and it was an overcast 14-16° - walking perfection if you ask me. I rolled along outside of town, crip walking down the street as I blasted Limp Bizkit hits out of my phone speaker. It was a strange craving but one I indulged; I will very very rarely not indulge a craving. I had great fun with this and realised that I must learn to properly dougie, as it would go perfectly to 'Rollin'' - put it on the to do list.

The stretch today was flat and straight, but I was greatly enjoying the weather. Ha ha ha, God laughed.

About halfway through the day it started to sprinkle. De nada. I powered on. Not enough to get anything seriously wet, I didn't stop to pull out my pack cover or put my jacket on. Ha ha ha, God laughed.

Slowly, the rain started to increase. The pack cover came out first, I didn't even break stride, just shrugged it off the shoulders, wrapped her up, back on she goes. Along came El Ganso, with a strangely 'Texas ranger' themed roadside cafe, where I stopped for a soggy coffee. The weather finally triumphed over my pride, on went the rain jacket. I believe that was the sign God was waiting for; the heavens opened.

The last hour or so was an interesting experience. I hated it, I loved it. I wanted desperately to finish, I was grinning the whole way. I was drenched to the bone, my feet were squelching, my shorts were plastered to me, my jacket obviously needs re-waterproofing, because I was wet through. I couldn't look at my phone, the roadsigns kept saying 6km, 4km, 2km, where the FUCK is this town. The longest 2km of my life, I think it was a prank. I walk quickly anyway, but once the rain began I positively hoofed it. I hadn't had any water, no food since breakfast, and too many coffees. I finally arrived in town and realised, amused greatly, that I was woozy on my feet and shaking like a chihuahua, what is wrong with me, it's rain??!! 😅 I think some kind of primal stress took over - the golden rule, broken, I won't survive the winter!!! Never get wet!!

You'll be happy to know, I did, in fact, survive. I got into my albergue, saturated, overwhelmed. One thing at a time baby girl. A shower. Dry (thank god) clothes. Check the passport, dry. Praise ziplock bags. I hung my many sodden items out to dry, without hope. But it felt good to organise. Next, sustenance.

This is where the next amusing chapter of the day begins. I plonk myself at the bar, perching like an owl on a bar stool. I think at this point I am slightly mad. I beam wide-eyed at the barman. I order a coffee. He doesn't speak a word of English, but he has an excellent vibe. We warm to each other straight away. I am definitely slightly mad. I order food, we crack jokes via a game of charades. As I'm eating, a glass of red wine appears, he grins at me, I grin at him. I begin an enthusiastic conversation with an older American lady next to me. Some minutes pass, the wine glass empties some, I look up, my barman bestie has refilled me. He grins at me, I grin at him. This happens two more times over the next hour or so. He never asks me to pay, for the wine nor the food. Some time later I do. We play more charades.

An elderly local man wanders in. He seemingly pays for his beer with freshly picked walnuts. Him and barman bestie crack handfuls of them for me, slamming them down on the bar. I continue to perch on my bar stool, grinning, slightly mad.

A Scottish man appears. He joins in on the conversation between me and the American lady. Barman bestie speaks to him, Scottish man knows Spanish. Barman bestie is urging to do something. Scotsman disappears. Returns, in a kilt! Barman bestie starts fiddling with the soundsystem, through which he has been providing back to back bangers, eg house remix of Bam Bam by Sister Nancy. The vibe takes a sharp turn, as traditional Scottish music starts blaring through the bar - the request becomes clear! The kilt's time to shine!! We are treated to an extremely poor and reluctant performance of Scottish dance. I fall deeper in love with barman bestie and his raucous sense of humour. We laugh and the bond deepens. More walnuts are cracked, charades exchanged.

Meanwhile, the sun appears!! Hola sol!!!! Grinning (slightly mad) I starting running like a toddler back and forth through the bar, barefoot, sticking out my tongue, carrying the three clotheshorses outside into the sunshine. Barman cheers me on.

Through more sneaky door opening (see last post) I access a New Room!!! Big fire!!! Fantastic discovery!! I haul my sodden belongings, I arrange artfully, I grin (slightly mad). You'll see from the photos, this started quite a trend. I charmingly requested more wood (via charades and terrible Spanish) from barman bestie, he enthusiastically joined my quest. I became Fire Feeder. Everyone's stuff would dry!! Hero of the albergue!!

This room also quickly filled up with mattresses on the floor. I learned that the dorm beds were full, but they weren't turning people away, simply powering on, sleepover style. Vibes increase.

I make more friends. I explain the rules of roller derby. Scottish guy puts wax stamps in everyone's credentials (he's carrying a whole kit??). I get outrageously hit on by an old Italian who repeatedly whispers in my ear. I laugh, Scotsman offers to beat the shit out of him, calm down kilt.

Barman bestie and I finally exchange names, Asin, I love you, you're excellent. I sit around a table and chat with Scotsman, a Korean lawyer, and a German guy who is very curious as to how I balance so well in precarious positions atop of barstools, until I launch into an explanation of roller derby. He picks up the strategy quickly, I warm to him immediately.

I check on my soaked clothes, bag, and shoes, almost bone dry!!! This place is an oasis.

I take myself on a slightly drunk walk around the town. It's beautiful. I grin.Read more