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- Tuesday, January 21, 2025 at 5:33 PM
- ⛅ -13 °C
- Altitude: 113 m
CanadaLittle Italy43°39’35” N 79°25’3” W
Packing light

Cheapest flight tickets now only include personal item size carry-on so I'm fitting as much as I can onto myself. 😆 Everything else (flip-flops, Toiletries, and a few other items are in my small bag. Flight is at 8am tomorrow.Read more
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- Day 2
- Thursday, January 23, 2025 at 1:33 PM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 2,576 m
ColombiaLa Europa4°39’10” N 74°6’35” W
The Vicissitudes of Travelling

I was going to post a long-ass explanation of my whole packing method and why I had to walk 40 minutes for my morning constitution in Bogotá today. But fuck the packing part, too long and probably boring for most. The morning walk thing is kind of interesting and definitely falls within the vicissitudes of travelling category, so I'll share.
Apparently, the city of Bogotá has decided they need to shut the water off between 9 pm and 9 am the next day (that is a very approximate time frame, of course as it only came back on at 10:30 am). I woke up at 7 and needed to use the washroom, as is my habit. Oh, oh, no water. So, I headed out to the nearest coffee shop, which would have been a 10-minute walk if not for the crazy boulevards in between me and it, making it a 40-minute walk! "Un cafe por favor y donde esta el baño?" 😆Read more
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- Day 3
- Friday, January 24, 2025 at 11:00 AM
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 2,112 m
ColombiaSibundoy1°12’12” N 76°55’5” W
Sibundoy; time for some medicine

I had strange dreams last night that perhaps portend the days to come.
Every trip needs a spark, a linchpin around which the adventure will be formed. This is how I find myself in the town of Sibundoy, Putumayo, Colombia.
I was aware of the name Putumayo from my days working at HMV, an international record/CD chain (remember those?) that had stores in Canada. It was there that I first discovered the wonderful record label called Putumayo. They specialized in world music, and it was through them that I first discovered many of the beautiful sounds from diverse cultures around the world that expanded my musical knowledge and appreciation, as well as pique my curiosity about far away lands.
But Sibundoy only hit my radar when I decided a few months ago to finally try an experience that had been years in the making.
About 10 years ago, I picked up a fascinating book called Supernatural: Meetings with the Ancient Teachers of Mankind by Graham Hancock. His description of ayahuasca experiences planted a seed that never really went away, and a few months ago, I decided to finally take the plunge.
I looked into one of those retreats that have become almost common now in Costa Rica and some South American countries since Michael Pollan helped ignite the latest psychedelic renaissance with his 2018 book, How to Change Your Mind. But they seemed a bit too chichi and geared towards affluent foreigners.
So I did a little research and found that the Sibundoy Valley is an area where the Kamentsa Biyang Indigenous People have been practicing yagé (ayahuasca) ceremonies for hundreds of years. Through my Colombian connections, I was put in touch with a taita (shaman) from Sibundoy, Taita Miguel Angel Jamioy. I even found a YouTube video of an interview he gave, https://youtu.be/pB5ylg72c-o?si=7uGFxOFPLB7hiFNU
I'm checking out of my accommodations on Sibundoy now and walking over to his place about 30 minutes away, somewhere in the jungle, I'm guessing. I might be alone, or there might be two other people doing the ceremony, he advised me last night.
I'm a little nervous. I've read a fair amount about the taste, the effects, the physical toll it can sometimes take. But wtf, and with all due respect to Buddhists, you only live once.
See y'all on the other side!Read more
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- Day 5–7
- January 26, 2025 at 5:00 PM - January 28, 2025
- 2 nights
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Altitude: 2,110 m
ColombiaSibunday1°11’35” N 76°54’10” W
The experience

I survived and thoroughly enjoyed the yagé experience, except the throwing up part of course. I also survived but enjoyed significantly less the return trip from Sibundoy to Mocoa on the Trampolin de la Muerte; https://www.rcnradio.com/colombia/sur/trampolin… or https://trans-americas.com/trampoline-of-death-…
Writing anything longform on a phone sucks. I'm of the keyboard generation and never really got my thumbs up to snuff, writing wise. The Samsung swipe feature has its own issues and is not much better. Typing feels more connected, the tactileness, the movement of all fingers (well, maybe not all of them in my case), gliding and pushing down on a keyboard. It more closely resembles the lost art of actual writing on paper. But I digress.
I arrived at Taita Miguel's place at around five in the afternoon full of nervous anticipation. This eventually waned somewhat since the ceremony only began at about 11:30. At around 11, with the assistance of his never tiring wife, Maria Clara, they started setting up everything that would be needed. The medicine, various herbs, small cups, bowls, tepi (blow pipe) musical instruments, lots of wood for the fire, a comfy chair for Miguel, other chairs for the participants taking la medicina, and a couple of mattresses with clean sheets and blankets (it gets chilly in Sibundoy at night).
That first night we were three; Mario, a friend of Miguel's who is from Sibundoy but has never taken yagé, Anna, a German girl of about 25 who has done yagé many times before, and myself.
María Clara gets the fire going, and we all settle into our chairs. Miguel takes a few burning pieces from the fire and puts them in a bowl. He adds a bunch of sage and then walks around the space, softly singing/chanting while fanning and spreading the lovely smelling smoke all around and onto us, spirituality purifying us and the space I imagine. He be smudging.
He then tells us we'll be doing rapé before the yagé. This is news to me, but ok, let's do it. Taita knows best, right? Rapé is snuff that is blown by the taita through a blowpipe or tube of sorts into the user's nostrils. There are many different rapé recipes but as far as I know, the main ingredient in all of them is Nicotiana rustica, which, according to this site, https://www.psychedeliclaw.ca/hape-mapacho-lega… , has very high nicotine content compared to the more commonly used Nicotiana tabacum. I decided on a medium dose which Miguel blew up my nose after various chants that, as much as I could make out, were sent out to pachamama (mother earth), and other entities to channel that energy through him, through the rapé, and onto and into me. The use of rapé before an ayahuasca ceremony is believed to help clear the mind and body of negative energies and to prepare the participant for the experience. It also sometimes used during the ayahuasca ceremony to help bring the participant back to the present moment if they become overwhelmed by the intensity of the experience.
Anyway, the so-called medium dose was too much for me. Very quickly, I started sweating like crazy, had the shakes, my body was tingly all over, and I almost had to puke. I kept shaking my hands and saying, "Whoa, whoa." It neither cleared my mind nor calmed me. Thankfully, the effects are short lasting, and I felt fine about 15 minutes later.
Two nights later, when we did a second yagé ceremony, I at first declined the rapé but Miguel said he'd give me a different mix (there are many apparently) and a lower dose. That one was much better, but nevertheless, it didn't really give me energy, clarity, or relax me, all things it's purported to do.
On to the main event, the yagé, la medicina. The first night I did it, apart from throwing up, I felt virtually nothing, maybe mildly stoned. I guess Miguel was playing it a bit safe and had given us a small cup full, a copita. After two hours, he gave me another but still no effect. I had read that this sometimes happens, so I wasn't too disappointed, just mildly so. Also, much has been made of the disgusting taste, but I didn't find it that bad. Very earthy but with slight notes of sweetness.
Two nights later, during the second ceremony, it was just me. Miguel and I agreed we should up the dose, and I did a bigger cup this time. I sat down and waited. As he had done the first night, Miguel self administered rapé throughout the ceremony. He has a cool little pipe that he puts in his mouth, and the other end curls up into his nostrils.
After about 30 minutes, I got up to walk to my purging spot and purged. I came back to my seat and listened to Miguel playing music. At different times during the ceremony, he'd play an indigenous flute, guitar, and sang. He plays and sings well and has a good sense by looking and listening to participants what the moment calls for.
After about another 30 minutes, I definitely started feeling something. My mind was flying off somewhere, and my body felt a bit heavy. I went to lie down on the mattress and let the sensations come. I went in and out of consciousness and when I finally came to, I got up to go sit down and talk to Miguel. I explained to him that I had some weird, dreamy visions but was unsure if I was awake or not. He told me that I had fallen asleep at some point as he heard me snoring. Honestly, though, I don't remember any of it anymore. 😕
Time for a second dose! This time, I stayed awake and remembered a bit of what I saw, what, and who came to me, and I remember very well my state of mind. The three scenes most vivid are, 1; a bunch of geometric shapes that were flickering in and out of view (my eyes were closed for most of my trip). I wasn't surprised by this since I've done DMT a few times, and this isn't an uncommon hallucination. 2; some images that I can't quite remember were all lit up around the edges, like a bunch of led lights all around and throughout. 3; the coolest one maybe was some type of representation of something so natural, so earthy, like a pachamama type of being. It was amazing, and as it appeared I did what I did during much of the trip, I laughed and mumbled, "oh yeah, of course, riiiight..." The whole trip I was just smiling and laughing so much. Whoever and whatever was appearing to me, I was loving it. I was a seriously happy camper, so no suppressed, horrible memories for me, at least not this time.
Thank you yagé, thank you pachamama, thank you, Miguel. It was an amazing experience.
Much love, MikeRead more
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- Day 8–12
- January 29, 2025 at 5:00 PM - February 2, 2025
- 4 nights
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 1,648 m
ColombiaSan Augustín1°52’56” N 76°16’14” W
San Agustín - the city

I spent 4 wonderful days in San Agustín. As you can see, it's a very pretty and colourful city with lots of murals. I walked around a lot, bought cheap avocados, vegetables, and fruits for self-catering at my cute little hotel, El Jardín, which came with an adorable dog named Dory and even more adorable kitten. Went to a couple of pretty good restaurants and lots of cafés. I went rafting, visited archaeological sites, rented a motorcycle and booted around, and hit a couple of miradores with a couple of Colombians and an Austrian in their car.Read more
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- Day 8–12
- January 29, 2025 at 5:00 PM - February 2, 2025
- 4 nights
- ☁️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 1,610 m
ColombiaRío Mazamorras1°52’39” N 76°13’39” W
Friendly Colombians and travellers

All Colombians I've interacted with have been very friendly. From friends of Gisela's, to people I meet walking around, on buses, and in cafés and restaurants. Super friendly, asking me where I'm from, sometimes wanting to try out their English with me. So I practice my Spanish and they practice their English, good quid pro quo.
Of course the travellers I've met are friendly because why the fuck not? they're having fun travelling! They're either on vacation, taking extended time off or retired, all good places to be. After Colombians, by far the next most common are French and they have represented well, I must say. Here are some pictures from a few of my encounters and adventures. First was a Colombian woman and a Cuban man who shared a taxi/colectivo with me from Mocoa on my way to San Agustín. Then a French couple I went rafting with on the amazing Rio Magdalena. I had just finished reading the excellent, The Invention of Nature: Alexander von Humboldt's New World by Andrea Wulf and the Magdalena River features prominently in the first part of the book. What an amazing adventurer he was! I highly recommend the book. Then there are the two Colombians and one Austrian who offered me a ride back to town from the tres cool San Agustín Archeological Park (more on that in another post). They were super nice and we ended up spending much of the afternoon together as he kept asking if I wanted to go with them to various lookouts. I kept saying yes, of course, and had an amazing time. We then met for supper to cap off a perfect travel day.Read more
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- Day 9–11
- January 30, 2025 at 1:56 PM - February 1, 2025
- 2 nights
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 1,749 m
ColombiaRío Naranjos1°53’13” N 76°17’44” W
San Agustín sculptures & motorcycle day

The San Agustín Archeological Park was the main reason I wanted to visit San Agustín and it did not disappoint. After a wicked and laugh-filled 11km rafting run down the Rio Magdalena in the morning, I was dropped off at my hotel. After resting for a bit, I walked up to the park, and even though it was the weekend, there were few visitors, which made for a lovely, peaceful time. I'm going to be a bit lazy and add a link to a National Geographic site if you're interested in these fascinating sculptures, burial mounds, and the pre-hispanic people who make them:
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/artic…
Apart from the Archeological Park, there are statues scattered elsewhere within a few kilometres. This is one of the reasons I rented a motorcycle, along with being able to check out the Magdalena River. I also wanted to visit some waterfalls but never found them. No matter, I had such a blast off-roading on the little Honda 200. Wheeeeee!Read more
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- Day 12–16
- February 2, 2025 at 2:00 PM - February 6, 2025
- 4 nights
- ☁️ 24 °C
- Altitude: 1,740 m
ColombiaParque Caldas2°26’39” N 76°36’19” W
Popayán, finally!

The first part of my trip had me discovering a little bit of the southern department (akin to a Canadian province or an American state) of Putumayo. Then I saw a bit of Huila, which is where San Agustín is, and for the past week or so, I've been in Cauca in Southwestern Colombia. I've been based in Popayán, the capital of Cauca, mostly at the home of Hugo and Elvira, dear friends of Gisela's parents from the time they lived in Colombia. They have been so nice and generous, as were other friends of her parents that I visited, Ricardo and Verónica, who live in the countryside of Popayán. They've all known Gisela since she's existed! Ricardo lived in France for many years, and his partner Vero is from France, so we had a great evening of drinking wine and chatting about music and politics in French 😄.
Popayán is well known for its colonial architecture and its contributions to Colombian cultural and political life. It is also known as the "white city" due to the colour of most of the colonial buildings in the city center, where several churches and government buildings are located. There are also many very good food options here - in fact, in 2005, Popayán was declared by the UNESCO as the first city of gastronomy - and of course, no shortage of excellent cafés. It’s also an excellent location for diverse day-trip options, and I've been able to do two of the there I wanted to do. Here are some pictures of my time so far in Popayán and with Hugo, Elvira, Ricardo, and Verónica. I'll post later on the two day-trips.Read more
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- Day 14
- Tuesday, February 4, 2025 at 9:00 AM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 2,495 m
ColombiaQuebrada Juanambú2°36’37” N 76°22’45” W
Great market in Sylvia

Last Tuesday, I went to Silvia with Hugo and Elvira specifically to visit the colourful Tuesday market and to see the equally colourful Guambiano (aka Misak) community who descend on the town to sell their fruit, vegetables, herbs, blocks of panela (unrefined whole cane sugar made from boiling and evaporating sugarcane juice. It retains some molasses, giving it a rich flavour), and handicrafts. The quality and price of the food sold was really good too. We lunched at a small place that offered only emanadas de pipián (typically potatoes and peanuts, sometimes with a bit of ground meat) served with ají, a Colombian salsa and a peanut sauce. They're delicious and addictive and we scarfed down 8 each. I really liked the small town, and it was one of my favourite markets I've ever been to...almost no meat, and what was there was way at the back, kind of hidden. Tomorrow (or today if you're reading this on Tuesday), I'm off to Cali for more adventures. Hasta luego!Read more
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- Day 17–18
- February 7, 2025 at 10:28 AM - February 8, 2025
- 1 night
- ☁️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 2,753 m
ColombiaRío La Calera2°18’14” N 76°29’12” W
Helmet, I don't need no stinkin' helmet!

A slight diversion if you'll permit...
It's fun to get informed on cultural, frivolous things sometimes. My topic heading about not needing a stinkin' helmet is, as most native English speakers from North America of, shall we say, a certain vintage know, a take on a pretty famous cultural quote that can be and is applied to so many situations - the source of many variations about stinkin’ things we don’t need.
Interestingly, it's both a famous quote and a misquote. If you know it, it's probably from Mel Brooks's 1974 satirical Western comedy Blazing Saddles. The line was delivered as "Badges? We don't need no stinking badges." https://youtu.be/e1lyNt5km8U?si=FHf-1lvwutIr1K68
However, on film, it originally comes from The Treasure of the Sierra Madre , a 1948 American Neo-Western film, and this is where the misquote part comes in. There the line is, "Badges? We ain't got no badges. We don't need no badges. I don't have to show you any stinkin' badges!"
https://youtu.be/VqomZQMZQCQ?si=KXX28Ry8yMt_61cf
Finally, and this might be my favourite part, the original version of the line appeared in B. Traven's novel The Treasure of the Sierra Madre (1927) and included some classic Mexican Spanish swearing, "Badges, to god-damned hell with badges! We have no badges. In fact, we don't need badges. I don't have to show you any stinking badges, you god-damned cabrón and chinga tu madre!"
Ok, on with the story. As I previously wrote, there are many opportunities to do interesting side or day trips from Popayán. The first of two that I did was to a super small town with perhaps the coolest name ever, Coconuco, about 40 minutes away. I don't think it would be unfair to say that the only reason one would venture out to Coconuco is for the hot springs or aguas termales in Spanish. I visited two.
I got myself to the Popayán bus terminal, found the appropriate booth for the bus company going to Coconuco, and purchased a bus ticket for only 8,500, less than $3 CAD. Check out the cool paint job on the bus!
I had booked a room at Hospedaje oficial Doña Ruth through Booking.com, but that didn't work out. When I arrived, the owner was nowhere to be found. Luckily, there was a woman outside the hospedaje, and she also seemed to be looking for the owner or someone working there. She made a few calls and found out that the owner was out of town. Apparently, he didn't get the message from Booking.com. Fortunately, I only had to walk about 10 metres down the road and found another very affordable hospedaje.
The first of the two termales, Aguas Hirviendo, wasn't too far, about 4 km away, so I walked, all uphill on the way there. I had two compañeros the whole way, two friendly dogs who might have wanted me for protection as things got a bit hairy a couple of times along the route with many, many dogs, a couple who were pretty nasty and agressive. We walked together from town to the hot springs, and they would occasionally run into the bush or a field to chase some chickens or run around some cows or the occasional horse. The cows and horses seemed a little nonplussed but not overly concerned. There was also a waterfall, river, pretty flowers and lots of birds along the route. It was a lovely walk, except for the nasty dogs.
I paid my 20,000 entry fee, went to change into my swimming underwear 🙄 and then spent the next couple of hours moving between the four pools they had, 2 large, two small. There was only one other person there, and with it being nestled in the mountains far from anything, it was very peaceful.
While the dogs did follow me around for a while at the hot springs, they eventually disappeared, and I walked back down alone, ignoring the occasional dogs barking and posturing.
The second hot springs I wanted to visit was Salinas ("Then somewhere near Salinas lord, I let her slip away
Lookin' for the home, I hope she'll find
And I'd trade all my tomorrows for a single yesterday
Holdin' Bobby's body next to mine" The Janis version, of course! https://youtu.be/5Cg-j0X09Ag?si=xpg_6kxLi5D_p_QE ). No dogs to accompany me this time because these termales were a bit too far, and I needed a ride. I went up the street where the motorcycle "taxis" were. 15,000 pesos each way...ok let's go. The driver puts his helmet on, and I wait for him to give one to me, but he never does. I've seen the route to the springs, and I've read a few comments so I know it's a winding, mountainous road pretty much the whole way and the last 4 km or so are unpaved. I ponder this situation for a few seconds, weighing all the factors, the possibilities, my life, will my travel insurance cover an injury from a possible spill? how much experience does he have on these roads, etc. Do I demand a helmet? Do I refuse the ride otherwise? Fuck it I think, I don't need no stinkin' helmet! This will just be another travel story to tell...and so it is.
He rode well as I had suspected and hoped. He knew all the potholes and rocks and curves. I never felt in danger although I did hang on pretty tight. Man, were my fingers cramped when I arrived!
I paid my 25,000 entry fee, went to change into my shorts/bathing suit, which I remembered to bring this time😄, and was given a quick explanation and tour of the place. I was the only customer, but did have two dogs on the premises who took a shine to me and followed me around everywhere. Salinas is by far the nicer of the two; cleaner, better signage, better maintained, prettier. Apparently, it's owned and managed by the Coconucos ethnic community, los Kokonucos, of course. I lounged in the pools, remembered to go under the cold water spout every so often, took pictures of the signage here, as I did at Aguas Hirviendo (Check them out, one thing both places tell you not to do is pretty funny), went to the waterfall and took a dip in the huevos-shrinking cold water, climbed the mountain for the awesome vistas and just had a marvellous, chilled time. I went back to the parking lot about 2.5 hours later, where the motorcycle taxi driver and I had agreed to meet. The ride back was equally uneventful, thankfully. I checked out of the hospedaje and grabbed the next bus back to Popayán. Wheeeeeee!Read more
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- Day 21–31
- February 11, 2025 at 3:08 PM - February 21, 2025
- 10 nights
- 🌧 23 °C
- Altitude: 1,210 m
ColombiaSanta Mónica3°27’44” N 76°32’28” W
Loving Colombia, again!

After Popayán there were four distinct parts of my journey left. The first, which I have completed, was Cali. Originally it was supposed to be Cali and environs, however, due to bad weather, a bit of a lack of adventurous spirit on my part, knowing I'll probably be back within a year or so, and surprisingly, how much I liked Cali, I never did my planned side trips - the challenging full day hike up Pico de Loro, and the river town of San Cipriano with its quirky brujita (wooden palate powered by a motorcycle placed on train tracks) way of getting there, will be for my next trip to Colombia.
I walked and I walked and I walked around the sprawling, hilly city. I didn't much care for Cali my first time here about 5 years ago, but I saw much more of it this time and just seemed to get more into the groove of the city. I went to so many different neighbourhoods, some swanky, some middle class, and some a bit rougher. The two worst that I experienced were near the bus station (of course) and a stretch on Carrera 4 close to the pretty Plaza de Caicedo park. There are many casinos on that street and many down and out people sleeping on the street.
I met up with an Australian woman who was on the PWYC tour with me on Popayán. She was in a hostel and invited a couple of other people there to join us on the tough climb up to Tres cruces.
There's the beautiful Cali River that flows through the city west to east, then northeast and finally north where it meets up with and becomes the Cauca River, one of the three major Colombin rivers that begin in the Colombian part of the Andes Mountains. I spent all of my time in the western part of the country where, apparently, the Andes mountains dominate and account for two-fifths of the area. I see no reason to doubt that as I was constantly travelling over and around mountains - I so want to ride my motorcycle here! And every city or town I've been in has had some level of up and down, Cali being the most.
There's good food in Cali with more than the usual Colombian fare, good coffee, good music - lots of salsa, of course - but all types, some nice parks, and lots of interesting neighbourhoods. Really tough hike to tres cruces for a nice workout, and pretty friendly people for a big city. A very jungly botanical gardens, and lots more.
Ok, not the most inspired writing, but I'm a bit tired. I'm in Minca now, a lovely mountain town close to Santa Marta, and I have been doing a lot of hiking to waterfalls and lookouts. Part of my prep for the big 4-day Ciudad Perdida jungle trek that begins tomorrow. Then it's back to Bogotá for 2 days, then home! Go Canada!Read more
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- Day 27–31
- February 17, 2025 at 3:00 PM - February 21, 2025
- 4 nights
- ☁️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 710 m
ColombiaMinca11°8’31” N 74°6’54” W
Santa Marta and Minca

I imagine I'll get little sympathy on this one, but I finally got some serious heat when I landed in Santa Marta. It was 32 when I walked out of Simón Bolívar International Airport at about 2:30 in the afternoon of February 17. The wall of heat and humidity hit me as I left the air-conditioned confines of the exit lounge, and I couldn't help but smile...ahhh...the heat.
As is my usual CAB habit, I walked to my hotel about 2 km from the airport. A weird place in the middle of nowhere in what I think will eventually be a built-up area, but at this point, it was bizarrely barron. No restaurants or tiendas within a kilometre. Like WTF?
There was another reason to keep walking everywhere, especially in warmer weather, I was building up to Ciudad Perdida trek shape that was a few days away, and this is why I was in Santa Marta, the gateway to the Lost City. It certainly wasn't for any nostalgic reasons as my last time here, 9 years ago, devolved into a strange and sketchy couple of days that had left me wondering if I might have dodged a bullet, thanking the travel gods that I don't really believe in but thank nonetheless.
I didn't think the hills of Cali and the heat of Santa Marta alone were going to get me into shape, so before the big trek, my next stop was the small mountain town of Minca. Like the Ciudad Perdida, Minca is also nestled deep within the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range in northern Colombia.
There seem to be countless hikes, waterfalls, rivers, and opportunities for adventure in the Sierra Nevada and Minca is where many stay for a few days to experience the fun or relaxation, depending on what you're after. There are many hostels and small hotels in town and within a kilometre or two of Minca, some with stunning views, especially at sunset.
I hiked to two waterfalls/natural swimming pools, Pozo Azul and Marinka, and one mirador, all on uphill winding dirt roads or paths through the mountains and always with the soundtrack of birds all around. An unanticipated mini hike was the many steps up to the Casa Loma Minca - a rustic eco-hostel located on a hill overlooking Minca and Santa Marta. It's definitely the spot in town to see the beautiful sunset, have a drink and listen to listen to a DJ spin some tunes (mixed bag there).
Here are some pics of tings...Read more
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- Day 31–34
- February 21, 2025 at 7:00 AM - February 24, 2025
- 3 nights
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 744 m
ColombiaCiénaga11°6’58” N 73°51’37” W
The not so Lost City

Ciudad Perdida is the archaeological site of an ancient city in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. There's a wild story to how it was rediscovered in the 20th century, which I'm piecing the information together and will share in a subsequent post.
This trek has been one I've wanted to do for many years, and it didn't disappoint. It was beautiful, especially starting the second day once we got off the road, then the dirt road, and finally started on the trail. Always in the jungle, great plants all around, birds always singing and the Rio Buritaca often by our side. It's very challenging not in a technical sense but in the punishing up and down hills, topped off by a brutal 1200 step climb up the actual ruins of the Ciudad Perdida on the third day. The heat and humidity at lower levels also up the level of difficulty.
If all of that wasn't challenging enough, nine in our group of 12 were hit with a virus, some so bad they couldn't make the final climb, staying instead in camp, shivering, throwing up and/or pooping. Some even had to use a mule at some point as they were too sick and weak for the arduous walking. I was one of those nine, but as some of you know, these ain't my donkey days yet, so no way was I using a mule! Well, maybe on a technicality, I could have used the mule since it's not a donkey, but I didn't, and those 1200 steps were excruciatingly difficult. I cried a bit when I got to the top from exhaustion and relief as I was greeted with cheers from my fellow hikers. Only later did they tell me how gray I looked, not good pallor for the living 😕.
Each night, we camped in simple accommodations by the river. The beds were decent, and sheets clean. There were showers and our meals were very good. Most of us were asleep by 9 pm, and each morning, we'd get up at 5, eat at 5:30, and be on the trail by 6 or 6:15. Best to hike as much as possible before the heat got too bad. Days 1 and 4 were about 5 or 6 hours of hiking, and days 2 and 3, about 8 or 9 hours.
It was a pretty good group all in all. I had my favourites and my least favourites, of course. In addition to me there was an older Irish couple in their 60s, three young Brits travelling together, a British guy and his Swiss partner, a Swiss woman, German guy, Argentinean guy and an Australian woman.
Part 2 soon.
Peace ✌️Read more
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- Day 32–35
- February 22, 2025 at 10:33 AM - February 25, 2025
- 3 nights
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Altitude: 439 m
ColombiaQuebrada Naculinduecue11°5’36” N 73°53’12” W
Lost City part 2

Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a network of tiled roads, and several small circular plazas. The entrance can be accessed only by climbing up 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle. This is all true, and as I walked through the jungle, Astrix definitely popped into my brain a few times,
https://youtu.be/lIuEuJvKos4
Built around 800 CE, Ciudad Perdida was most likely the region's political and manufacturing center on the Buritaca River and may have housed 2,000–8,000 people. The site was originally inhabited by the Tairona (Tayrona) people. According to the Kogi people, who are some of the last preserved indigenous descendants of the Tairona, the Tairona lived for thousands of years, up until the age of the Spanish conquistadors.
The Tayrona people were advanced in construction, engineering, and military operations. They had a complex social hierarchy, a religious and political elite, and were organised as a federation of towns. It’s thought that the Lost City was their capital and most sacred town, connecting and trading with other groups in Colombia. By the time the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, the Tayrona (an estimated one million people) were suspected to be at the edge of becoming a major civilisation in the Americas. At least 60% of them died from diseases brought over by the colonisers or died defending their land. Finally, the Tairona people were forced to flee from La Ciudad Perdida sometime in the 16th century after years of trade and conflict.
Apart from possibly some indigenous peoples, Ciudad Perdida seems to have been forgotten and "lost" until the 1970s when some farmers who had colonized the lower part of the Sierra Nevada, learned of the possibilities of finding great treasures. Los Sepúlvedas were a small family of looters in Colombia and seemed to have stumbled upon these riches. The family was out hunting and shot down a wild turkey. Upon retrieving the turkey, they noticed it had fallen on a piece of an exposed staircase. Julio César Sepúlveda, later found a series of stone steps rising up the mountainside and followed them to an abandoned city, which the family named "Green Hell" or "Wide Set". Almost simultaneously, another family of looters, the Restrepos (yes, Restrepos!), and their leader Jorge Restrepo arrived and also started looting. The two sides clashed, and the two leaders died in the bloody battle.
Soon after, gold figures and ceramic urns from Ciudad Perdida began to appear on the local black market. This alerted archaeologists and a team led by the director of the Instituto Colombiano de Antropología, reached the site in 1976. The site was reconstructed between 1976 and 1982. What little was found of the Lost City in the 20th century was stolen and often sold on the black market. What was recovered is now in the gold museums in Santa Marta and Bogota.
Four main tribes inhabit this sacred region: the Kogui, Wiwa, Arhuaco, and KankuamoRead more
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- Day 35–37
- February 25, 2025 at 11:00 AM - February 27, 2025
- 2 nights
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 2,564 m
ColombiaHumedal El Salitre4°40’18” N 74°5’6” W
Adios Colombia

This was my third time in Colombia in nine years. My first time visiting the country was almost accidental. I had planned on going to Argentina but just as I was about to finalize the purchase on the Air Canada website for a return ticket to Buenas Aires, a seat sale ad to Colombia on the screen caught my attention. It was $450 or so to Bogotá so on the spur of the moment, I changed all my plans and instead went to Colombia. It was mostly a pretty standard trip to Colombia, but I really enjoyed it - Bogotá, Medellín, Santa Marta, Cartagena, plus a couple of off the beaten path spots thrown in. On the return flight, there was a beautiful and mysterious looking woman sitting beside me and when our meals arrived, I used the whole airplane meal thing as a good opportunity to begin a discussion, and somehow we ended up talking almost the whole flight back. Nine years later, and Gisela and I are still going strong, so that ended being a pretty good spur of the moment decision. Score one for cheapness. 😁
My second trip to Colombia, four and a half years later, was with Gisela, and I got to do a bit of a deeper dive into the country, including going to a dream location for me, the Amazon. I also met some of her friends in Bogotá and her cousin in Cali. Although Gi was born in France, her parents and extended family are from Colombia, and she'd been visiting there since she was a young girl and has family and friends throughout the country. We saw some amazing places in Colombia and then went to Peru for a couple of weeks, which also rocked.
Fast forward another four and a half years, and here I am again, alone again. Retirement has its benefits, and Gisela is not quite there yet, so five weeks off for her was just not possible. Gisela and her parents were nice enough to reach out to many of their extended family members, and I ended up staying at three of their places, Hugo & Elvira, Ricardo & Véronique, and Analia Restrepo. They were all so sweet and generous, lovely people.
My last two days in Colombia, I stayed with Luz Angela and Miller in Bogotá. Friends and colleagues of Gisela's (they both worked on her doc), I'd met them both when I was last in Colombia with Gi, and they are super nice and lots of fun. They warmly opened their modest apartment to me and offered me their comfy couch. We went out one evening to watch some fútbol and the next night, we all hooked up with another friend of Gisela's and theirs, Pablo. A few beers, some laughs and good times were had.
Each trip to Colombia has had its own special vibe and unique experiences, but this was my favourite one. From the special connections I made with Gi's and her family's extended family to my yagé experience to the challenging and stunning Lost City trek, and all the other new experiences and places, it was friggin' awesome!
Hasta la próxima Colombia! Te amo mucho ♥️.Read more
TravelerSo, how did this work? 20 layers of grey? Did it start to feel restricting? Big bag of laundry on arrival?