• Georg Hellmann

Nord Süd Trail

After finishing my first "Thru Hike" I also want to hike the length of my home country.
Starting at my parents place in Rhineland Palatinate walking north bound to Sylt and then back by train walking south bound to Oberstdorf.
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  • Wutach valley

    August 24, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Starting early in the morning right after sunrise again I said goodbye to the other hikers and then hurried down the mountain to get water and find a toilet. I got the water from a grave yard and in the supermarket I was relieved to find a restroom where I also washed myself a little bit. After I left the town the trail led down into the Wutach valley and in the next village I sat down for breakfast next to a water spring. I placed my green bandana into the sun on another bench after I used it as a washing cloth... later I realised I left it right there but I decided to continue instead of walking back for an hour to get the bandana (Still got two more). The Wutach valley was gorgeous. Cliffs on both sides looming over the river and the path sometimes gently following the riverbank or leading up and down through the cliffs. Fantastic waterfalls combined with moss forming a rain shower. I kept walking for hours before I found a nice spot in a side valley with a small stream. After a short run to a waterfall nearby and a cool bath I followed the trail out of the Wutach valley into Lenzkirch where I resupplied for dinner and the next day because it's sunday. At the next shelter I had a long break figuring out my sleeping place and catching up with friends and family. Walking a few more kilometers to a better hut because of the rain forecast the next day. I called a friend from New Zealand after almost half a year since I left and I really miss the group I got to know on my journey there.Read more

  • To the bottom of the Black Forest

    Aug 25–26, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    While the trail going further north is only 10 km away I am doing a 150 km loop to the south west corner before I get to that point again.
    I started later after calling my sister and friends and once the rain stopped. I came to a beautiful lookout above lake Schluch, which is the biggest hydropower complex in Germany. I walked around half the lake and ventured off into the next valley. One valley later I came to a small village but with a big cathedral and I bought lunch at a cafe. The trail followed up the mountain again and after a few small ups and downs I came to the Wehra spring, where the trail led down into the valley again. I found a toilet with a power outlet at a bus station, so I stayed for dinner nearby. The trail led me into the Wehra gorge and I ended up walking in the dark on narrow paths along the steep mountainside until I got to a hut.

    In the morning I got up at 7 and continued down the Wehra valley. I really liked the paths except for the road next to the river the whole time. At least there was no traffic until I got to the end. In the next town I got a big breakfast, but the vegan mango yoghurt I tried, wasn't my favourite. Before I had breakfast I left town and on my way I saw a mobile wood saw and splitter from the 1960s which they still used. The trail led gently up and down through forest and fields and in the next village I was really lucky. When I was at a small self serving street shop the owner just passed and he allowed me to use the bathroom, which I urgently needed.
    At 4 pm I arrived in Lörrach to the most south western point of the trail. After resupplying I had a snack break at a bus stop before leaving the town. There a man told me about a shortcut to the next castle skipping the hill in front of me and I thought for myself, I'll walk up anyway because that's the trail. At least I had a good view of the surrounding mountain ranges in Switzerland and France. Once at the castle I ate my dinner and after a while three women and two dogs sat nearby. One dog came to me multiple times sniffing but couldn't find anything.
    I continued to the next village trying to find a sleeping place close to a power outlet. The only easily accessible one didn't work so I kept walking to the next hut where I stayed for the night.
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  • Black Forest - What a day!

    August 27, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I started as usual at around 7 am after nearby passing footsteps woke me up. Perfect timing to be in the next town at 8 am for the supermarket. I didn't expect much on this part but I was surprised by a gorge with a trail leading through nice rock formations. I came early to the supermarket and waited a few minutes. Luckily I found a power outlet, because I was running out of power and they had a toilet. After leaving the supermarket I looked for a breakfast spot and ended up in another public toilet with a power outlet.
    Half charged I began hiking up the first mountain and had barely any break until O reached the first peak called Blauen. On top was a blue tower and at that time a big construction site, forcing me to take a detour. It wasn't the first one. The day before close to the hut a massive pipe was built a meter up from the ground over the whole path. Descending the Blauen I came to the next detour because of forestry work. I tried to find my own way but ended up taking the wrong path and I stepped straight down at the end to get to the next lower one. Getting a bit annoyed the trail provided me with half a pizza, which I ate while walking along the mountain side. An hour later I came to a pass road and had to take another detour but for unknown reasons. Further down the road was a guesthouse where I had a short break to give my feet some air and of course charge my phone again. I also did some stretching.
    On my way to the next peak I met a couple who were the first to recognize the NST tag. It made me really happy and I was really surprised in that moment. We chatted for a while and they invited me for a beer in the next hut, giving me 5 €, because they just came down from there. This meeting gave me new strength and energy for the rest of the day and I got up to the hut in no time. Because I don't like beer and thought about better ways to treat myself I saved the money for another day. Also the power outlets I found didn't work so I continued after taking a few pictures. I even saw the swiss alps with over 4000 m peaks slightly in the haze.
    It was 4 pm by now and I knew the next summit and also the highest one was at least 4-5 hours away.

    Of course I wanted to be there before sunset so I kept up my high pace for a bit longer. After the first 2 hours I had a short dinner break at a stream also to clean my feet. I met a lot of multiple day hikers in this part. A km later I came to another road pass with a pretty nice hotel. It could have been a nice accommodation but I would have missed the rest of the day...so I only asked for the toilet and charged my phone for a few minutes. I also had my second dinner while waiting for the phone to charge more.
    Now the time was running and the last long climb started. It was an easy ascent on broad paths but of course another detour because of a construction site. I knew the sunset from the highest peak wasn't possible anymore but from a lower peak right in front and there I had a great view of the whole landscape to the south and west. I was surprised at how many mountain bikers I met at 8 pm.
    Now only a small descent onto the ridge to get to the final peak with the last sunlight brightening the sky and I made it. Before I got to the summit I stopped at a hut with a self serving kiosk. There were two fridges, a fully automatic coffee machine, a sink, snacks and power outlets. I stayed there for a while figuring out what to do. In the end I decided to hike up to the peak and come back down again. I took everything with me because you never know. Plans "might" change every 5 mins, as my father likes to say. With the last bit of sunlight it was easy to follow the path for about 10 minutes until I reached the Feldberg "field mountain", the highest peak of the black forest at 1493m. On my way I called my parents even though it was quite windy. I took a picture of me with the summit stone and then laid down on a bench to watch the amazing night sky covered with stars. I just took a picture of the Summer Triangle and checked it when suddenly I thought a really bright airplane appeared over me. A second later I realized a meteor shower was visible for at least 15 seconds and I was so stunned by the beauty that I only took one good picture. After the light show ended I was overwhelmed with joy and didn't know what to do. So I called my dad again, after saying I'll call them the next day but I couldn't wait. The excitement kept me laughing while trying to tell my father about the meteor shower.
    I studied the night sky for a while longer trying to find more constellations. In the east I saw lightning, but the forecast was fine. On my way down in the dark I missed a turn and had to climb up a bit again. Once down at the hut I prepared my sleeping set up in the kiosk and started to write the footprint for the day which took about 2 hours until 1 am. Thank you for reading my posts and supporting me on my way Thru Hike, even though it might be just thinking about me❤️
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  • Black Forest - taking it easy

    August 28, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Fully charged I started early for sunrise after I cleaned the kiosk and climbed the summit again. Other hikers already came down and told me to hurry for the sun but I kept a steady pace. It was out by the time I came up and the view was great. I even saw the Säntis again, which was over 120 km away from the Feldberg. On my way down I came to a hut where two bikers stayed for the night and they told me a fox stole their fruits. The day before I heard a story about the same hut and probably the same fox stealing sausages, which hikers left unsealed.
    In the next village Bärental I ate my breakfast at the highest train station of Germany. Now the sun was really hot and there was no cover from the trees until I got to lake Titi. One camping ground after another and tons of people walking around the lake. I heard a lot of spanish and the one I greeted in spanish might have been italian. Climbing up the next mountain with a good view of lake Titi and the Feldberg to then get down on the other side into the next town, meeting another hiker on the way down, who told me about someone offering free accommodation. After lunch I continued up the mountain on the other side and into the forest. Up there the path was almost even and I felt the short night after a long day in my legs with a low energy level. Just when my mood was down and my head thought, let's just continue walking and smiling, a hiker appeared in front of me. Right before I caught up to her, she turned right and confused me, because I saw no trail there on my map. A minute later I decided to wait and see if she's coming back on my trail again. So I finally met someone walking my way and I enjoyed her company for the rest of the day. She stayed at a guesthouse, where we had dinner together and I walked a km back away from the road to a field where we had a break earlier. I cowboy camped and people with a camper van also liked the spot parking 50 m next to me. The night was covered with more and more stars as time passed by.
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  • Black Forest - day of company + 1

    Aug 29–30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    At 6 am the camper van already had left. I packed my stuff to get back to the hostel at 7 am and meet up with the hiker I met the day before. The doors were locked so I waited outside and after a while I called quiet "Uwe, where are you?" just for fun, which was the name of her room. She appeared at the only open window surprising me a bit, not knowing that she actually heard me.
    We enjoyed a very delicious porridge breakfast which she prepared at home. While hiking we were laughing a lot and the time passed by without notice. Another break for vegetables with hummus, dumplings and rice enrolled in a grape leaf. A man passed us who looked like the most traditional hiking worker in sandals, a hat, a big blanket and a calm and happy appearance.
    Later we were joined by my company's friend and baby, who was carried on her first ever hike. We played "I lost my pacifier again" several times, sang and clapped melodies while sharing stories and happenings of the last days. The friend's daughter did really well but in the end she didn't want to sit in the backpack anymore and the friend carried the baby in her arms when we got close to their home. She also invited me to come in and even have a shower, which I really did appreciate. We talked for a while longer and then my company accompanied me to the next town for shopping.
    I really enjoyed spending time with her, even though it was just a brief get to know each other. I still had a great time, which will be remembered as a special part of my journey. A woman with a beautiful energy, appreciative and funny.
    After we parted I ate dinner in a park until the sun disappeared and I started a night hike until midnight. On one uphill part I almost felt like I am blind and could only rely on my other senses. I really enjoyed it but would only stay on wide forest streets for the next time.

    The following day I barely met anybody and I just wanted to push further on because of the weather forecast. I really enjoyed the single trail through the moss covered forest on the hilltop, which I followed for hours. I walked until sunset and stayed outside next to a hut because the floor inside was dirty.
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  • Black Forest - already so far?

    Aug 31–Sep 2, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I realised, I've gotten further than I expected. Starting early in the morning with only short breaks and arriving after sunset I finished the black forest 2 days earlier.

    The trail led me along the west ridge line of the Black Forest with a great view of the Rhine valley. I met a lot of day hikers as well as cyclists. In the evening I had a long ascent until I got to a hut where I met 4 other hikers. One of them also had a long journey ahead of him, walking through Germany to his hometown over a few months (Carrying a 1,6 kg singing bowl with him as one of his most important items). Another one went on his first multiple day hike with a friend and met another friend after they realised, they were hiking in the same region. We talked for hours about god and the world with a lot of funny stories but also some intense topics like moral conflicts about death.

    The next day I started with the one also hiking for months until he stopped for breakfast. Later I met him at a water spring, where I stopped for a bigger break. There a group of people collecting mushrooms talked to me and gave me apple slices after I shared my story with them. In the next village I had another break in the community hall to charge my phone. I realised, I still wanted to finish the black forest that day and this meant walking in the dark for the last 30 minutes before I got to Pforzheim. There I walked to the graveyard, usually a safe water source but this time all the taps were running empty. I slept close by in the open not willing to walk any further in the dark.

    In the morning I was surprised by a few rain drops, so I left early and bought breakfast in the next supermarket. I contacted different people for accommodation in Karlsruhe but the first one was far away. After I called my mum she advised me to ask my sister's boyfriend, who has family living in Karlsruhe. A little while later he told me, I can stay at his brother's place, which turned out to be close to the trail. Trying to walk by the way marker I lost the trail several times. At the edge of the Rhine valley on a beautiful lookout I had a long break before I descended leaving the last mountains behind me. Once I arrived at the brothers home, who was still working until late, I surprised a cat with my unfamiliar face. The cat ended up sleeping next to me once we got to know each other.
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  • last day + flip flop break + 1000km

    September 3, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today was my last day of the trail in the south of Germany. I walked through Karlsruhe along a river until I got to the rhine meadows. There I followed a dam until I got to a big coal factory forcing me to walk along the fenceline until I got back to the dam on the other side. I called my brother who came from Berlin and just arrived in Karlsruhe. Just before I got to the railway bridge, I saw the train crossing it, which my brother took. The last meters before I entered my home region Palatinate again. I stopped shortly at a supermarket and ate while walking to get to my parents place as fast as possible.
    I tried to persuade my brother to accompany me for the last kilometers but it didn't work out and my father arrived right before me back from work. Later my brother and I went to an old quarry lake, which is now a popular swimming spot. There I met my best friend and in the evening we went to a pizzeria without my brother. I was surprised about him having a hard time at the moment due to a break up and facing minor self esteem.

    The last 1000km are laying ahead of me in the north of Germany. I had a break until the 11th of september to spend some time with my family and friends, write applications and sort out some other stuff.
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  • a massive ship lock on the Weser river
    Weser rivera giant bovist for lunchadmiral butterfly on a sunflowermy dinner locationthe trail is missingan empty ship lock for constructionJurassic Park in MünchehagenWilhelmstein fortress on the Steinhuder MeerSteinhuder Meer at the tourist hotspot

    Sigwardsweg + Steinhuder Meer

    Sep 12–14, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    At noon I took the train for 8,5 hours to get to Minden, where I left the trail before I went to Austria. Arriving at 10 pm I walked to the next forest park / graveyard and found shelter at the chappel.

    The temperature dropped down to 6°C and I jogged for a while to get warm. I walked along the Weser river with fog creating a mystical atmosphere. I had my breakfast at the next town and headed on through farmland. At some point I found a giant bovist next to the trail and had it for lunch. I kept walking north until I turned around and followed the river upstream again. In Stolzenau I ate my dinner next to a small lake with a little island in the middle. I followed the river further upstream to get to the next bridge and on the way I got to a quarry lake where they also dredged away the trail. Once I crossed the bridge I still kept walking upstream until I got to a small village with a public water tap, which I definitely needed. With another break I continued out into the fields again and reached a nice shelter at a small collection of houses.

    In the morning I left early without breakfast until I got to the next village with a public toilet. When I got there a woman just arrived with a key to open the toilet and I was so thankful. The trail led up a hill, arriving at the top a few minutes later and down into the next village. I kept walking to get to the Steinhuder Meer (it's a lake) before I had my virtual job interview. I found a nice spot at a wooden hut and had my lunch break there. I waited for the zoom call but in the end I called the manager on the phone after 15 minutes past the meeting time. We agreed on a new time 2 hours later, because he had a busy morning in the hotel so I continued for a little while until I found another public toilet. My job interview went well as far as I know, but I'll find out in a week. I continued along the Steinhuder Meer with many other tourists enjoying the cool late summer breeze. In town I got food for the next day and had dinner at a bus stop. I left the town in darkness into endless fields and small villages until I found a nice little shelter for the night.
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  • Trailhead Heidschnuckenweg (HSW)

    Sep 15–16, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    First thing in the morning, trying to find a toilet. In the end the hotel I aimed for was closed but at least there were portable toilets. I started listening to the Finanzfluss podcast while walking through endless fields and forest. Once in a while I crossed a road or walked through small villages. In a town I had a long break for stretching, eating and relaxing. Another two hours later I arrived in a small village with a nice hotel I would have loved to stay in, but except for high prices I still wanted to continue to the next town. The hotel had beautiful paintings of beaches, waves and light towers...only a few weeks and I can enjoy it live. I kept walking until the last sunlight and decided to sleep on a pile of tree stems. My spot wasn't bad but my quilt got more and more wet.

    In the morning I finished packing my stuff when a woman with two dogs passed by, the dogs being startled by me standing on the tree stems. After 2 hours of forest walk I got to Celle, the trailhead of the HSW with the finish line in Hamburg. After breakfast I continued into the historic part of the town to walk out the same way again and start the HSW with a total length of 222 km.
    In the next village I stopped for lunch break and my virtual job interview. Too late I realised I missed a junction and walked in the wrong direction, so I ended up sitting in front of a random house somewhere in the village trying to join the meeting. Of course I had to download an extra App and lost the email with the link somehow. I talked with the human resource manager and the front office assistant and had a good feeling during this time. Right after the meeting a mini bus stopped beside me and two police officers came out revealing a robbery happened a short while ago. After they checked my passport, they wished me good luck on my journey and continued the search. I stretch out my lunch break to process the interview and the encounter with the police.
    The next few hours I followed long straight forest roads and paths and listened to the podcast again. A km before my sleeping place there was a farm where I was able to refill my bottle. On the last few hundred meters I also found a portable toilet with toilet paper. I finally arrived at the pavilion with a dark blue sky and the full moon just above the tree tips.
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  • HSW - unexpected encounter

    September 17, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After stretching and some warm up exercises I started in the day. Long forest walks and beautiful heather landscapes in between. Listening to a podcast for a while I met a few hikers, but 2 of them totally surprised me. I met Soulboy and FREESTYLA again. I met freestyla when I first started the trail after a few days and soulboy joined me for a day at the halfway point. They were gathering video material of the HSW with cameras and a drone. We took some pictures, laughed about this coincidence and they spoiled the trail ahead of me. I was really happy to meet them again.
    In the next village I stopped at a self serving farm shop, where I charged my phone and had lunch. After continuing I called back my mum, only to get interrupted by the next passing hikers just because I told them I am on my way to Sylt. Over the day I heard a few loud but dull bangs and thought about falling trees until I realised this must be coming from the military training camp.
    I rushed to the next town for dinner and got there earlier than expected but was also really exhausted. After resupply I tried to find a nice spot for dinner, but kept walking until the edge of the town finishing a pack of nuts with a crunchy lentils coating by then. After accepting the taste of the other things I bought wasn't that great I started into the woods again to the next village. On the way I messaged some friends from Hamburg and enjoyed the rising full moon. In the next village I had to take a detour because of a closed bridge but it didn't matter at that point. I was exhausted anyway and at half past nine I finally arrived at the shelter.
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  • HSW - without the HS

    September 18, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Heidschnucke is an animal that looks similar to a sheep. I haven't seen any, probably because of the cold weather.

    Still sleepy in the morning I started the day with sore legs in the wrong direction, realizing after a few meters something is off. Long straight paths led through forest and small villages until I got to the first town with a grocery store and a toilet. I continued with several breaks to let my legs recover a little bit. Once I crossed the longest highway in Germany A7 I stopped for lunch. After a while I got a call from the hotel of my second job interview and we talked about our decisions. In the end the HR manager told me she'll send me an email with the conditions for me to accept it, so she can set up a contract. I was really happy and finished the last bit of my peanut butter, which I got sick of.
    Following the trail markers while charging my phone, at a big road I had to realize I took a wrong turn a while ago and came into the next town on a different road. At that time I really needed a toilet and a detour of a kilometer didn't help. Of course the public toilet cost 50 cents so I asked at the next restaurant for their bathroom. In the next grocery store I had another small break for a snack and time to charge my phone. Leaving the town my legs still wanted to rest. "Slowly" but steady I enjoyed a river valley walk until I got to an amusement park, the Heidepark. There I met a lot of tourists/Guest until I came to the other side of the parking area, where I had dinner on a big grassy field alao reserved for parking if needed.
    At the next bus stop I contemplated walking another 9km or just staying there for the night. I decided to stumble through the night with a full moon lightening the path. I crossed the highway again and followed a rail way until I got to a barbeque area with a hut. In between I sat next to the forest road for a short break and almost fell asleep.
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  • HSW - another day with company

    September 19, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    I slept in until 8 am and stretched myself before packing my stuff and preparing to leave. The next town close by I bought too much food for the whole day. I tried to find a breakfast spot with a charging option and continued until I found one at a fitness center. I charged my phone inside but went outside with my yogurt, banana and cashews to avoid confused eyes.
    The trail crossing the highway A7 for the third and last time before Hamburg I got into the next village. Asking for the bathroom in the next hotel but no luck with power outlets. I left soon after and ran into two other hikers which I passed earlier but didn't know they were walking the same direction. They were walking the HSW and it was their first time on a trail. We continued talking about hiking and food while the landscape turned into beautiful rolling hills covered in heather with trees here and there. The path itself was sandy or short grass and it reminded me of the dunes at the north sea.
    We stopped for a snack break at a bee museum, where we watched short movies about the honey production and bee hives. We stayed there for quite a while, also because of me charging my power bank again and eating a lot of my stuff.
    The beautiful landscape continued and we got to a viewing point overlooking the hills around it. I didn't take many pictures that day even though it looked fantastic.
    Another small village where we refilled our bottles we saw a police officer on horse, which looked funny. For a few houses it was a busy place with many tourists and cyclists. Two of them greeted me like they knew me but I had no idea.
    Following the heather fields we reached their minimum goal for the day. We kept walking with no suitable camping spot until we entered another village. There we found a snack automat from a farm saying there should be sausages and cheese in there but the cheese was missing even though there was no empty spot.
    They called it a day but for me the day just started. Nah, I'm kidding. I continued until I found a bench for dinner and afterwards I used the last sun light to find my way to a sheltered spot in the heather fields.
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  • HSW - more heather

    September 20, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Waking up I enjoyed the beautiful heather landscape with a cold breeze keeping my stuff dry. I prepared to leave and after a few meters I had the feeling, I am on the wrong path again. I checked my map and realized the evening before I took a turn too early but only walked off the trail about 200 meters. The next village there was a small self serving shop, where I was able to charge my phone and while waiting I read a book about astrology. It was about how the position of stars and planets at birth show everyone's characteristics.
    Heading into the next forest I followed a horse track parallel to the trail until the trail itself turned into a single trail and followed a small stream. Breakfast turned out to be more like a brunch at 11 am on a nice bench next to a rail way.
    The next stretch led me through a pine forest until it opened up to a beautiful heather field. This repeated itself but with more forest and a bigger heather field with a small hill giving me a good view of the landscape. I congratulated some others who were happy about making it all the way up and left into the forest again leading me into a ravine. Nothing I haven't seen but a nice variation on this part.
    Following the rail way into the next town I stopped at the city pond for a late lunch break. While trying to eat I dropped my bread from the knees onto my right foot and then on the sandy floor. My toes were covered in hummus and it was impossible to get rid of all the sand.
    After finishing my other slice of bread I went into the next supermarket and got new slices and other stuff for dinner and found myself in a quiet park a minute later thinking about food again. I snacked some nuts until my best friend called me and I continued walking. I don't know how I stayed on the trail and listened to him, but it worked until we hung up and I took the wrong turn of course. I decided to stay on this path to join the trail later again while avoiding the highway. Even though I really hate the noise and pollution of the highways I was so glad about the resting area with a restroom, which I immediately needed. I had to climb a fence because the fence door was locked but nothing could stop me there.
    One last mile to the next village. I stumbled through a dark forest and tried to guess the path in front of me with barely any vision. Once out on a field I followed a sealed road down to the main road and ended up on a bench next to a museum. Not knowing where to sleep I stayed there with cars passing by until I decided to start walking again to find a suitable place in the field or the forest.
    I finally arrived at a bench with a flat spot and enjoyed the stunning night sky.
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  • HSW + Hamburg (Elbtunnel)

    September 21, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    This morning after I woke up I started with a photo shoot introducing my new scarf in different styles. The last 14 km of the HSW and then somehow to the Elbtunnel. The last bit had a lot of elevation compared to the trail so far but it was really beautiful. Right before the end I met a hiker who I passed the day before with his wife. She had an injury so he decided to walk at least the last section, as it is definitely worth it.
    Figuring out my own way into Hamburg I stopped at a supermarket and embarrassed myself by spilling half a liter of vanille yoghurt in front of the cashier. At the next bus stop I enjoyed the yoghurt, knowing there'll be no quiet spot for the next hours following a road. The sun was burning down on me until I finally got into the cool but crowded Elbtunnel.
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  • The beginning of the end

    Sep 23–25, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a rest day in Hamburg the northern part of the NST finally begins.
    I took the train back to the Elbtunnel and followed the promenade along the Elbe river. The old warehouse district is separated by water channels attracting many tourists every year with the Elbphilharmonie as one of Hamburg's most unique buildings. I stopped at my favourite restaurant called "Erdapfel" which is a synonym for a potato. They serve large cooked potatoes filled with all kinds of ingredients.
    I kept following streets and small parks until I had another long break. In the dark I continued through fields and alongside a small lake, where someone was swimming at that time. I came to a small wooden shelter where I wanted to stay for the night. A woman with a flashlight walked past the shelter but didn't see me. When I started preparing my sleeping place and searched for my power bank, I realized I left it at my friend's place. With the last bit I figured out how to get to his work place and arrived there an hour later surprising him without any notice beforehand.

    I stayed one more night at his place and took the bus back to where I left the trail the following morning. Still low on energy I stopped at the next bench after a few minutes. I couldn't find motivation so I relaxed for a while and distracted me with videos. The only thing that forced me to walk was hunger. After a few miles I stopped at a playground where I spent the rest of the day a short walk away from the next supermarket.

    I finally found motivation and that day I started at 7 am. Listening to a podcast I made good progress and barely had any breaks. A light rain shower poured down on me, which kept me walking as well. At 5 pm I arrived at the trail angel's place. A lovely couple with two children, who both live somewhere else in Germany. They often have guests and support refugees. The dinner was great and afterwards I pitched my tent for the first time on this trail. I was even allowed to sleep on the couch, if the weather gets worse again.

    In the morning my host made me marinated giant bovist slices, which was so delicious. It kept raining for a while but I decided to start the day of walking. The weather stayed wet until midday when I arrived at the next town. Beautiful lakes besides farmland and forest forming the landscape. After a short lunch break I listened to podcasts and rushed to the next town. Long forest paths with a little elevation until I got to the next lake exposing the town on the other side. I thought about swimming but I passed the best spot close to the main road with no water access on the following part. I ended up on a pier for a short break but it seemed to be a private one where they forgot to close the gate. I didn't disturb anyone as far as I know. Leaving the lake I continued through fields until I came to a village at the Elbe-Lübeck water channel. The last hour I followed the channel until I found a shelter with a short and small bench next to a water lock.
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  • Lets go to Lübeck...or not

    September 27, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Today I came close to Lübeck, a town with a beautiful historic city center, but I never entered it...

    Leaving the water channel I walked through fields and forests with small villages in between into the east. I was really surprised to see a town sign saying Lübeck even though I wasn't anywhere near Lübeck. Right behind it was another sign with the actual name of this small village called Beidendorf about 9 km south of Lübeck.
    Well, I entered Lübeck, at least for a moment. I followed the trail until I came to a supermarket in a suburb of Lübeck. I came to a small but beautiful heather field where I met a woman with a dog two times, because she took the smarter way. A few minutes later I stopped to talk with a couple and they gave me energy and motivated me. There the woman with the dog walked past me only to overtake her a minute later again. A long and dense forest stretch with small trees and many day hikers as well as cyclists enjoying the nature.
    Once out of the forest I crossed a street and reached a water edge. I knew I had to get to the other side and on my map there was a big road connecting both sides. There I had to realize it is a tunnel for the highway, but no crossing for pedestrians or even cyclists. I could've taken a shuttle bus to get to the other side but I am still on all by foot mission. I checked the map for the next bridge and saw I am almost going to the old part of Lübeck. At least the distance was almost the same and it looked like a nice trail for the first part.
    A gorgeous old village right at the start of the detour, which I almost wanted to skip unknowingly what to expect. I followed the river until the trail led me along a big riverside lake. I checked my map while walking and got surprised by a cyclist. I said sorry, the man only laughed and right after we parted I thought I saw a sign with a crossed out bicycle. On the other side I saw the same sign which made me angry for saying sorry even though the man didn't follow the rules.
    The next hours I walked streets to get to the bridge and back to the trail again. The old town center was only 650 m away but there is so much to see in Lübeck and the landmark would've been at least 2+ km (+ time taking pictures) so I decided to do a trip from Hamburg in the future one day.
    In the evening it got windy and started to rain but I kept walking into the night until I came to a community building with a shelter. First I thought, I'll leave early the next morning until I realized it is saturday the next day so there'll be no one there. Once the rain stopped I was able to charge my power bank at an outside power outlet. I was really happy after a long day of walking. I made it to the spot I guessed earlier.
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  • The highest point of northern Germany

    September 28, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    The goal of the day was the highest elevation of northern Germany. I felt confident even though the distance was quite high with more than 45 km + elevation.

    I started at around 7.15 am and the trail led me on long straight forest roads further north. My sister called me after the first mile still half asleep and we talked for an hour while my fingers got really cold. At one point I put her on speaker and wore gloves. Listening to my sister I walked into the wrong direction until I felt something was off after 500 m.
    Beautiful lakes for swimming...in the summer unless you don't fear the cold, but not for me. I would've done it with a warm house and a hot chocolate awaiting me afterwards. Heading straight north I made good progress distance wise on the map.
    In the next town I headed for the supermarket to resupply the rest of the day and breakfast. I also went to a post office for an identity check which I would usually do online as most people do. After a mile I stopped for lunch on a bench with more people than expected passing by. A rain cloud surprised me and I packed my stuff in a hurry. A little sheltered under a tree I stayed at the bench and kept eating after the rain stopped again. This happened multiple times so I covered myself with the poncho completely which left a passing woman worried asking me if I am alright. Well, even my head was hidden underneath the poncho so it must've looked weird.
    I started walking only to stop at the next shelter to answer an email related to my job offer and to avoid the rain. Two skaters tried out wet skating after the rain stopped and I tried to figure out where and how to get the different certificates I needed before I started the new job.
    I finally continued with 4 hours to go until I reached the highest elevation. I followed mainly roads from one village to the next and took wrong turns to walk past a couple again or get told about a dead end by another couple arriving with the car at that moment.
    In the last village before the steep climb I was glad to find a public toilet, also to refill my bottle. I stayed there for a while having dinner and checking the next day. I left once the sky turned dark and the first stars came out.
    Following up and downhill through fields I entered a dark forest with barely any sight. At least it was a wide forest road easy to follow until the next junction. The last village at an altitude of 100 m there was no big climb with the hill being 167,4 m high. I arrived at the Elisabeth tower with a beautiful night sky and was surprised by the lighting still on. I climbed the stairs and enjoyed the view seeing the light pollution of Kiel, the next city on the trail.
    I decided to stay in the tower overnight with hopes not to be bothered.
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  • 3rd time 100+ km...

    September 29, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Since I've done my first 2 times 100 km in 24 hours in New Zealand I wanted to try it on the NST at least once and this is how it happened.

    I woke up in the Elisabeth tower on the Bungsberg with 168 m the highest elevation in the northern part of Germany. Now in daylight I saw the sea in the distance and many wind turbines across the country. I packed the stuff and had to realize I left my water bottle in the last village I came through the evening before. As an interim solution I filled a small sealable box with water until I found another bottle.
    At 8.24 am I started tracking on komoot with the intention to walk at least 100 km and maybe 24 hours. The first hours went really smooth with an average speed of 6.1 km/h. I felt really confident with perfect weather conditions and a good mood to start with. Dwelling in memories of the 100 km in New Zealand I even started to cry missing the time with my friends there.
    The trail led through fields, small villages and alongside many lakes (15+). A lot of cyclists and dog owners came past and some of the cyclists I saw multiple times.
    Every 2 hours I had at least a short break to take off my shoes and stretch myself a little bit. In Plön I stopped for lunch and bought a falafel dürüm at lake Great Plön. It wasn't the greatest, falling apart while eating, but it served its purpose.
    With a full stomach I continued to Kiel, the only city on this challenge still many hours away. My mood was fantastic, my legs felt great and I listened to the Alpensinfonie, which a friend of mine is going to play in an orchestra. On the trail a small part was blocked by a fence claiming private property no entry. I climbed the fence, walked at the edge of a small field and got out on the other side. I took a screenshot of the spot on my map for then later sharing it with the community to avoid unnecessary detours. The next town I already entered in the dark. There I got a falafel döner with nothing else open on a sunday night. At the town's monastery I found a toilet where I put on all my clothes for the night, but took off my puffer jacket after I started to sweat again. The trail followed the river Schwentine all the way to Kiel where it flows into the Baltic Sea. While writing this I realized I started just north of the source of the river, which itself flows through all the lakes I walked alongside. On this part I had to use the flashlight of my phone with the trail leading through really dark forest areas.
    In Kiel I got to where you usually take the ferry across avoiding the city center but there was no ferry at midnight, so I took the shortest way about 7 km around. Then the trail followed the promenade along the water until it was blocked by a military area. I realized I had to cross the Kiel Canal (Nord-Ostsee-Kanal) and the trail led me to another ferry. Luckily there is a bridge not far from the ferry terminal, but the bridge was way taller than normal bridges would be, because cargo ships are passing underneath it as there was one passing by when I got to the terminal. I climbed all the stairs, crossed the canal with only one car on this highway at 2.30 am and got down on the other side back onto the trail.
    Now on a direct way north to the shoreline of the Baltic Sea I came across a graveyard where I refilled my bottle. My legs hurt but I wanted to reach 100 km within 20 hours, so I kept up my pace. I finally got there at 3.48 am and was really surprised about how good I felt compared to the first and second time. The conditions were different the first time but even with almost perfect conditions at my second attempt, this one felt way easier. After a short break due to the cold I continued to achieve my next goal, the 24 hours...
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  • 24 hours and then?

    September 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    I already knew I wanted to walk for 24 hours but I didn't expect to make it this far...

    At 4 am I continued with 4 hours and 24 minutes left to go. I figured out 120 km is definitely possible with an average of 6 km/h. The trail led me to the shore line of the Baltic Sea and followed the promenade up north to a light house. Still in the dark turning westwards I entered a small forest area with a cliff coast where I used my flashlight for the last time of this night. Leaving the forest onto the beach my mental health started to crumble. Why on earth would you walk on a soft sandy beach for miles??? (I've done it for over 40 km in the past 2 times on Sylt)
    Well the first time wasn't too bad, but I wasn't fond of it. Leaving the beach I came into a small village where I tried to get rid of the sand. The sky turned into beautiful colours and the last hour has begun. The trail followed the cliff coast on a beautiful single trail only with a few sandy patches. I went off the trail into a village to the supermarket where I finally reached the 24 hours.

    During the last 24 hours I kept thinking about 100 miles ~ 161 km and figured out 40 km in 12 hours could be possible. After a decent break I started with my final challenge. At first following a beautiful single trail at the cliff coast land inwards and enjoying the rising sun my mood was good. I did know there was another 3 km beach walk ahead and once I got there I took off my shoes and started walking barefoot.
    The sand was cold which didn't really bother me, but there were so many small stones and rocks mixed with shells and green stuff from the sea. My mental health crumbled to nothing and I got really mad about this part. I tried to walk with sandals turning out to be way worse with sand and small stones stuck between my feet and the sole. I was crying, no way someone would enjoy walking on soft sand for miles. I put on my shoes without socks and tried to walk as fast as possible to get off this beach.
    Well, I was tired, my feet and legs hurt and my mental health was crushed, so it was probably the worst time to walk on a beach where even a calming sound like waves just annoyed me. I do know how beautiful a walk on a beach can be, but not after 125 km...
    Off the beach the trail followed easier paths along the coast line until I got to Eckernförde. I stopped at a supermarket, got some (a lot) food for my nerves and stopped on a grassy area at the next lake. There I had a long break until I realised, I still needed to walk 19 km and wanted to arrive before nightfall.
    Walking around the lake all the food started to lay heavy in my stomach and I checked the map for the next restaurant/hotel or public toilet. It showed me a restaurant in the next village but in google maps there was nothing. I hurried into the village and asked some locals who offered to use their bathroom with the restaurant closed for years already. I was really happy and thanked them for their hospitality.
    While continuing I checked the map for sleeping places close to the trail but in a relatively close distance to where I reach the 161 km. I found a nice place in a little village with toilets, power outlets and a big shelter next to a lake about 2 km off the trail. I could've walked further but my whole body told me to stop and I decided to set it as my goal with a supermarket also not far away. Right before I arrived there, I completed the 100 miles and was so relieved to have finally accomplished the challenge. With some ups and downs I was really astonished about my own body and how I felt. Of course the following days will be hard and I felt like resting for a week but with my finish line so close now I also wanted to get to the most northern point of Germany in the next week.
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  • Almost at the top

    Oct 2–3, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The last city on the border to denmark two days away and the weather stable until the end of the week. From there the only way to get further north is the island Sylt on the other side in the North Sea.

    After a rest day at the lake, where it was really cold I joined the trail again with sore muscles and all my clothes on. I kept walking for hours through fields and forests. Right before I came to the next larger town the trail led me over a small bridge between two lakes. When I was there the water level was higher and at my side it was 20 cm deep 3 meters from the waters edge away. I took off my shoes, pulled up my pants and went over the bridge. On the other side I stepped into the water again and a moment later I saw the whole way flooded for at least 100 m. At the next sitting area I dried my feet and warned some other people about it.
    In Schleswig I had a long break next to a castle and just missed the opening hours of the toilet. So I walked a detour to a supermarket and kept walking in the darkness of the night until I got to a shelter.

    This day I wanted to get all the way to Flensburg, which is the most northern town of Germany and next to the border of Denmark. On my way there I came across some vikings heritage sites, which looked interesting, but I didn't take the time to explore much. I kept walking all the way up until I came to the edge of Flensburg, where I called the trail angel, whom I asked for accommodation the day before. Once I arrived at his place, I relaxed for a while and we chatted. Then after a shower he asked me about dinner, which took me a while to answer, not knowing what I really wanted. In the end we ordered indian food, which was delicious. Later I was so happy about a bed and I slept in on the next day.
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  • Baltic Sea to North Sea

    Oct 4–5, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Now following the border of denmark to the North Sea in two days and one final day on the most northern island of Germany called Sylt I tried to finish earlier with the weather changing afterwards.

    I started the day after the trail angel came back from his morning shift at around 10 am. A long breakfast stop in a quiet alley and only 1 hour later I stopped for lunch on a bench just outside of Flensburg. There I talked with a mother with her son and dog and on her way back she invited me for a cup of tea. I played with the son and the dog while she cooked pasta with pesto for me. I was really happy about this surprising meeting and I am so grateful for the time I spent with them. I left the secret trail angel and finally made some progress on the day. 3 hours later I arrived in a small village where I bought dinner and stayed at the graveyard with public toilets nearby.
    Late in the evening the lights turned on due to a motion sensor and I was a bit tense about someone walking past my sleeping place. I relaxed when I saw a cat creeping into the bushes a few meters away.

    Leaving early in the morning on a cold and foggy day I kept walking until the sun got out. In the next village I had a long break for breakfast and a few km later a woman asked if I knew where I was going. A little bit confused I explained to her I am hiking the NST the other way around. The trail followed forest roads until I got to a stunning beautiful camping area hidden in the forest with a little pond. The next stop was Süderlügum, a small town 3 km from the danish border. There I bought dinner and continued out of town back to the border.
    While listening to a podcast I walked up a road where a lot of cars were parked on the side and a moment later I saw many people standing on a dike. At first I was really surprised and couldn't figure out what they were watching. Once I got closer I saw swarms of birds all gathering at the same spot in a field on the other side of the dike. I tried to listen to their conversations but with barely any knowledge of danish I couldn't understand a word. I stayed for a while and watched more and more birds gathering in a tiny area hidden in high grass.
    For the last hour I followed the road in the dark until I got to Klanxbüll, which is the last stop for the train before it crosses the dam to get on the island. I stayed there in a graveyard again, where I always have water and mostly a sheltered space.
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  • The final day on Sylt

    October 6, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    I woke up in the morning in the graveyard, packed my stuff and got ready to start the final day. Leaving Morsum the trail led me through the fields southwards to the main dike. There I had to turn around because it was closed due to a disease. Back to the railway I followed roads close to it until I got to the main hub of the island called Westerland. I bought new shoes for the time after I finished the trail.
    Now only 15 km to the end of the island, a blue sky with a few clouds, a light breeze in the air and a great view from the Uwe dune, with 52 m the highest point of the island, a perfect final for the NST. Suddenly a friend, who is living on the island, called me and asked if he could join me for the rest of my hike. First I tried to answer ironically but immediately agreed happily.
    Instead of walking on the soft sand at the beach we took a gorgeous path between the dunes. The pictorial landscape with sand dunes partially covered in heather rounded up with a few clouds and the blue sky, just beautiful. The last bit following a road on a thin stretch of the island called "elbow" as it looks like an arm half bend. There leaving the road a sandy path in the dunes led us to the beach where we saw the sign a bit further up north. My legs were already hurting and walking in the soft sand was really hard.

    We finally made it to the most northern point of Germany and therefore for me to the end of my journey on the NST. It felt unreal and it was a weird feeling after a year of hiking to have an end for now.

    I had an amazing time on the Nord Süd Trail and I am really grateful for all the amazing people I met. Thank you for all your kind and warm hearted words which gave me energy. Much love to all the trail angels who supported me!

    Thank you Soulboy for sharing your passion with the hiking community and also thank you all who support Soulboy in establishing the trail, so future NST hikers can also have an amazing experience while exploring different parts of Germany.
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    Trip end
    October 6, 2024