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Walking the Camino

April - June 2024
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  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    112
    Day 19–20

    Day 19 - St Privat d’Allier to Saugues

    May 10 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The gite in Saint Privat was ok - a bit like a youth hostel but we had our own room. Glugged a couple of beers before the meal at 7. Mainly French families and Tim the Ozzie. All sat round a large table.
    Lentils are a local product that are becoming tiresome as they appear very regularly!!
    Early night, then up for 7.00am breakfast before fighting for space in the rucksack room to repack them for the off.
    There had been a landslide on the hill so we deviated to the road and reckon we saved an hour of walking time.
    Went through Ministrol d’Allier an old mining settlement. Then it was uphill into the mountains.
    The weather was amazing and the views were stunning.
    Simon has a red neck so headed off to get sun cream. He can’t handle being overtaken by pensioners 😂
    Got here in a very good time - think walking legs are coming on!!
    So had a relaxing drink and shared a pizza before heading to meet Jesus, our host for the evening at today’s Gite.
    We have a lovely big room in the attic and now await the delight of today’s dinner. Can smell smoked fish - just hoping it’s not with lentils 🤞🤪    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    1
    Day 21–22

    Day 21 - Chanaleilles to St sur Limagnol

    May 12 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Simon struggled with the 7.00 dinner last night. Pasta, turkey and crème was a nightmare survived with much glugging of water. Brought back school dinner nightmares for him 😳
    This morning started with a tussle for the bathroom with Jeanette and Lydia! All smiles and daggers - breakfast was a free for all then we escaped to the open road again.
    We saw our family and their donkey camping outside our place 🥰
    Walk was long but easy going , a couple of hills and fields. Our musical accompaniment today was cow bells 🔔
    The weather was great, cool and sunny with grey interludes.
    We stopped for a break and Sunday pause at the chapel of St Roche.
    As we entered St Albans had to walk through the hospital- Simon a bit freaked out when he saw Stephanie on her cart! - only joking 🙃
    Gradually made it down the hill into town to find we had 3 hours to kill before we could check in at our gite for the night.
    So we decided to eat now and settled into a local cafe and ordered their pilgrims menu, cold lager, roast chicken, chips and salad, apple pie and coffee - marvellous 🤩
    Now sheltering in the bar as rain started watching Eurovision catch up 😂 waiting to be allowed into our accommodation
    Au revoir for now - the plodicus and his Mrs xx    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    5
    Day 22–24

    Day 22 - St Albans s l to Aumont Aubrac

    May 13 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Last night we wandered around St Albans Sur Limagnole - we decided we weren’t particularly hungry after our earlier feast of chicken and chips 😆
    Thunder and lightning started rolling around so we hurried back to our lovely room just beating the torrential rain that followed 💦
    An easy going start with help yourself breakfast facilities - then off once more this time to the town of Aumont Aubrac.
    We headed out of town via the local spar! Stocked up on some fruit then hit the first hill of the day!
    We are now 1165 metres or 3415 feet above sea level on the Aubrac plateau. The place was covered in snow 2 weeks ago! We don’t want a repeat of this 🤞🙏
    We walked just under 16 km to lovely vistas on a sunny day with a cooling breeze.
    We hit town for lunch where there was quite a gathering of pilgrims all bonjouring each other.
    Mary tried out the local specialty‘aligot’ a type of mashed potato with garlic and cheese- it was lovely.
    We went to find our accommodation and for the first time we weren’t on the list despite booking a few months ago!! The hostess was apologetic and fortunately has another accommodation just around the corner. It is a charming old house with green shutters so hasn’t worked out too badly.
    Tomorrow is a rest day so we’ll chill catch up with the plans for the next few days and probably a trip to the local launderette!!!
    We have our own bathroom but a shared toilet and the kitchen is just off our room so could be noisy in the morning 🌅
    Simon is concerned that Man City are going to blow the title and the FA cup - however apparently Halifax finished 7th in the national league so all is not lost!!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    2
    Day 24–25

    Day 23/24 - Aumont Aubrac - Finieyrols

    May 15 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We are very glad yesterday was a rest day as it bucketed it down with rain all day and we saw some very wet pilgrims. We got our laundry done then headed out for a slap up lunch. After exploring a few grumpy venues we ended up back at our fave restaurant from the day before. We were well looked after by our cheerful waitress. We had to leave our sopping coats in the barn next door. However when we went to retrieve them only Simon’s nuclear yellow anorak remained 😳
    I had to knock on the window as they had locked up. They found a replacement in a drawer which ended up being much better than the one that had disappeared!!😂
    Up early this morning- 1 toilet between 8!!
    Had petit dejeuner, tidied up the little cottage and hoofed it off into a drier day.
    Our path took us up onto the Aubrac plateau. There was a steady stream of pilgrims that the Plodicus picked off group by group with Mary steadily bringing up the rear.
    The plateau had lots of daffodils and looked very much like Derbyshire and Yorkshire moors.
    16km done and we rest in a little hamlet called Finieyroles for the evening. We are 3 hours early for check in so ‘just hanging around’ watching pilgrims drift in and out.    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    2
    Day 25–26

    Day 25 - Finieyroles - Aubrac

    May 16 in France ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    La Rose d’Aubrac was a lovely gite but Simon struggling more and more with the communal meals 😳
    We were treated to a bland veg soup, truffelade ( kind of bubble and squeak with cream, garlic and cheese) and apple confit. Then Simon allowed to thankfully escape.
    We were only English speakers so was a challenge- but we were made to feel welcome.
    Up early for bread, jam and coffee. Then once more onto the Aubrac plateau. A place of solitude, bird song, flowers and lots of streams to breach. Really reminding us of Yorkshire moorlands and in places the Isle of Man 🇮🇲
    We came through sunshine, wind, hail and rain - thank goodness for my new poncho 😆
    Stopped in the quaint town of Nasbinals for a lovely sandwich and got an extra stamp on our credentials (pilgrims passports). 19 km later we have now arrived in Aubrac and are sitting viewing beautiful scenery waiting to check in at tonight’s digs.
    Simon tried the local drink pastis on our wet rest day - it’s rather like Greek ouzo!!
    He’s going for it again today!!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    3
    Day 26–27

    Day 26 - Aubrac to St Come d’Olt

    May 17 in France ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We walked into Aubrac and spotted a swankey Brasserie so booked a meal for later. We then checked into our accommodation ‘La Dômerie’ a Chambre de hotes of very high quality. Wonderful to have sheets provided and not to have to use our sleeping pods. The hotel was a wonderful old building that had been kept in a traditional manner.
    We went for our meal which again was in a room of fantastic character with all kinds of quirky furniture, ornaments and art. It had a wood burning stove in the middle which was delightful as we arrived but soon made us very warm indeed.
    After a good sleep went down for a lovely breakfast in the charming dining room - a great selection including fruit salad, fresh croissants, cheese and ham. We left feeling buoyant and ready for a day on the road. A good job too as we had 24 km to get through.
    It was a tough slog as at least 15 of the km were a steep descent over gullies filled with rocks that really hammer your feet.
    We went through the medieval village of Chely d’Aubrac and stopped for coffee. Our lunch stop was in the hamlet of Lestrades where the locals had put hot drinks in a barn in a help yourself basis.
    The rain, thunder and lightning started as we approached our accommodation for the night - the Convent de Malet - where we were welcomed by 2 of the sisters. The convent is a big, old roomy building with a great wooden staircase and well oiled policies and philosophies. It can accommodate up to 60 pilgrims a night.
    After putting bags into room and freshening up we hobbled into town while we had the energy. Sadly most places were shut til 7 except the bakery and local snack bar. We dined on paninis and offered to buy one for another pilgrim travelling with his dog. This turned out to be Roman, a 29 year old Czech Republic guy who said he sometimes walks up to 40 km a day😳 and lives outdoors relying on the kindness of The Way.
    Had a good hour or so with him listening to his tales and philosophies, he had very gentle, spiritual eyes - probably a psycho 😆 - only joking. We sent him on his way with some provisions from the bakery and €10 - he was very happy and we had hugs all around before heading back to our convent for showers and chilling before bed in prep for 20 km tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 27–28

    Day 27 - St Come d’Olt to Estaing

    May 18 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a good sleep in the convent and the expected petit dejeuner of yogurt, bread, jam and coffee we said goodbye to the Sisters and set off in the rain 🙁. Another long one - nearly 22 km.
    we had a lot of uphill climbs and met Cliff who was initially irritating with his advice, but we got chatting further and he was actually pleasant enough. Simon had a sadness as he lost his jolly Isle of Man tt beanie. We had to replace it in Espalian - a town we passed through as he couldn’t risk a chill on a cool morning.
    We then found the omelette cat woman who fed us lunch with coffee.
    We set off bravely again and met the cake woman on the hill who demanded we try her wares. We agreed to a piece of banana cake and gave a donation. She was overwhelmed with this and insisted we had orange cake too! We were sent on our way up the hill with many pilgrim blessings from her.
    Obviously she knew about the mountain we were about to climb and the carbs and sugar rush from her cakes would help us ever upwards!
    We were then subjected to a ferocious pummelling in the rain, where the gullies became entrenched in mud.
    We went slip sliding away trying our best not to end up on our backsides. Simon had to fight bushes to help us bypass huge lakes that had formed on the path. 7 hours later we made it into Estaing, across the pretty bridge into the town. We were filthy, smelly but happy to have made it to sit and have a beer and reflect.
    We have made it to our apartment for the evening- following yet another French phone call 📞
    We have charming views over the medieval church and are off now to find some food 🥰    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    2
    Day 28–29

    Day 28 - Estaing to Golinhac

    May 19 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today started off with a panic as Simon had lost his new hat!! We had to return to last night’s restaurant where we spotted it under the table. Mary had to then employ her French phone technique again to alert the owner of our dilemma and create a rescue scene! We had success 🙌 and now Simon has pinned it to his head!!
    Our walk today was shorter than of late and started with a 4 km stretch alongside the River Lot. Then it revealed its teeth and the next 6km at least were the walk up the endless, very steep hill.
    We then went through wooded glades and gullies on our route to Golihac.
    We also passed the drone of thousands of bees on several occasions which caused us to quicken our step.
    As we approached the village the ominous sounds of thunder - followed by darkening, brooding skies and yes 15 mins before our arrival the rain once again tumbled from the sky.
    We went walk about looking for campsite, arrived - reception was closed so started to set up camp under an awning when reception kindly opened early and got us into our chalet 👏
    Laundry done, now drying, we tried to find an earlier supper but no 🙄 we have to wait til 7 to eat. Then as early as possible to bed as we are feeling jaded!!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 28–30

    Day 29 - Golinac to Conques

    May 19 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The meal last night at the campsite was a worry as we had ordered a burger- they asked how we wanted it cooked??!! I said well done and Simon said medium… this meant that Simon’s burger came back only half cooked 😩 however he was so hungry by this point he ate half of it but it tasted more and more like pet food, so he stopped eating it and felt quite angry 😡 who eats raw burgers other than the french?
    Thankfully he survived the night!.
    The morning bought fog and rain. So we set off on our long walk to Conques all poncho’d up against the weather. We passed through the towns of Esperyac and Senergues. It was tough going, especially the descent into Conques- warning Helen and Andy, a tough ascent out again.
    Conques is a very old hobbledy hoy medieval village. When we got into our ancient house we found Hansel and Gretel 😂 Simon’s sense of humour! It all looks like it’s out of a fairy tale. As usual we were starving and have discovered that cafe/snack bars do a dish called ‘galettes’ which is the French version of a Staffordshire oatcake with savoury fillings 🙌 so we haven’t had to wait until 7 to eat.
    We decided to utilise the washing machine offered by the apartment and unfortunately put on a 3 hour cycle - lack of understanding french instructions 🙄 so have been kept up waiting for this to finish.
    We await the arrival of my sister Helen and her husband Andy who join us tomorrow for a few days on the trail 👣👣🙌🙌 so a rest day for us tomorrow! 👏
    We have now walked more than 400 km!! 👣👣💪
    P.S. Simon just gone to check on the washing and the clothes have all dissolved- that is the end of the walk 🤪    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    331
    Day 30–31

    Day 30/31 - Conques to Decazeville

    May 21 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Yesterday we were up early to meet Helen and Andy off the morning bus from Rodez. The weather was mixed with intermittent heavy showers and sunshine. We visited the local bakery so we could all eat at lunchtime. The only grocery store was on the local campsite so we trotted through the cobblestone streets to get the necessities- toilet rolls and bananas 😂.
    After lunch we visited the Abbey at the centre of the town. Then got chased back to our medieval house by yet another downpour.
    After a chilled afternoon resting we hit the bar before having a lovely meal in the terrace bar.
    We were up early as we had a 19km walk to Decazville an old industrial mining town.
    Helen and Andy were inducted into the world of Camino walking through a very tough uphill 2km climb out of Conques.
    The weather has been dry all day 🙌🙌
    We passed through the forest of sweet chestnut trees then into a very British landscape of meadows.
    We stopped in Noilhac for a delightful orange presse and coffee mid morning.
    Lunch was enjoyed in a field and we finished off all the delights we had brought in the bakery yesterday.
    19km later we hit Decazeville and discovered an organic microbrewery so had our well done drink here.
    We then walked up the hill to today’s accommodation which is run by an ageing hippy. He has 2 rooms and we are to share with another pilgrim- so we have split into gender based rooms- as this will be easier to manage. We sit on the terrace having showered and relaxed.
    We await to see what’s for dinner - and who our fellow pilgrim will be …    Read more

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