• Don and Lee McLoughlin
okt. 2019 – sep. 2025

South America Part 2

South America . For part 2 of our trip, it was just Lee and Don. The highlights of this part were Rio de Janiero, Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires and the 18 day Chilean Fjord cruise from Buenos Aires, around Cape Horn and back up to Santiago Meer informatie
  • Silver flower that blooms every day, almost.
    Dining room at ranch.Refreshments and empanadas offered on arrival.Buggy ride.Photo of picture showing the game of Pato.Meat after meat after meat was served.Gaucho dancing and skipping with Bolos.Vigorous dancing.Riders approaching hanging rings.Don's new leather hat.

    Buenos Aires, Argentina

    3 december 2019, Argentinië ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Buenos Aires. Tour: Fiesta Gaucho Barbeque and show at Estancia Santa Susana Hotel: Loisuites /Recoleta. Guide: Marianne. Driver: Felix

    Marianne was late to pick us up because the traffic was apparently very bad. On the bus to the “ranch” there were only 8 people. On the way we saw one of the famous landmarks in Buenos Aires, the Floralis Generica, a 105-foot wide mechanised giant silver flower, which blooms anew every day. But not today; it had broken down and was awaiting corrective service. Designed and paid for by Argentina architect Eduardo Catalano, it has been a striking city landmark since it opened in 2002. Marianne played Spanish music on the sound system and we loved it but other people on the bus were happy when she turned it off.

    After ¾ hour of driving we arrived at Estancia Santa Susana, we were surprised there were very few people there. We learned that there were several busses coming from the ships in port today. We were treated to empanadas- the best we have had on our whole trip and our choice of wine or juice. We wandered around outside and were disappointed to find that it was not a real working ranch. We went in to see the great setup for lunch and decided we didn’t want to ride the horses that were available, but just for fun, would go on the horse drawn cart. As we got down from the cart it started to sprinkle so we went to see the barbecues and wandered through their Gaucho shop. Don bought a leather hat to replace the Aussie hat that he left in the bottom of the hot tub last year and then we were seated for lunch. There was beer, water and wine on the table as much as you wanted. First, they served an assortment of different types of salads, about five different bowls in all. Then came the heavy-duty stuff; sausages, blood sausage, chicken, roast beef, ribeye steak and virtually all, (well except for the blood sausage,) were terrific. For dessert, they served a delicious creme caramel. For the show they had a couple demonstrate the tango and then the samba. Another group sang some traditional songs. The guitar player was excellent. Next, a male dancer came out and did several “Gaucho dances” with bolos (ropes used by the Gauchos to round up the cattle). They then played some more popular songs and invited everyone up to dance.

    Once lunch and the entertainment were finished, the rain had fortunately stopped, and we proceeded to the viewing area of the corral where Gauchos demonstrated their horse handling skills. The first of which was their ability to ride their own horse and control groups of other horses. Those other horses were clearly well-trained, but they were able to separate them into three separate groups, bring them to a stop and have them standstill for quite a period. The most fun part was the Rings contest, as in rings that you wear on your fingers. These rings were loosely tied to strings hanging down from a horizontal beam, think of the cross bar on a football goal post. The ring on the end of the string would be approximately 10 feet above ground. The riders on horseback carry a short stick in one hand, and the objective is for the gauchos, galloping at full speed toward the hanging rings, to skewer/catch one of the rings on their stick. It’s quite a task given that they’re riding at full blast and bouncing around a little bit but one of the riders did particularly well. Each time a rider got a ring, they brought their horse over to the side rail, picked out a lady in the audience and gave her the ring, then leaned over the rail and gave her a kiss. It was a fantastic accomplishment. The whole day was lovely even if we did have some inclement cool weather.

    The bus ride back was by a different route almost all on highways and was quite fast and smooth. Because of traffic we left the bus and walked several blocks towards the hotel. On the way, we bought some wine for onboard the ship that we board tomorrow. We went down to the fitness area. Each of us had a sauna in separate quarters, and as we were very tired afterwards, decided to eat in the hotel. Don had rack of lamb and Lee had pumpkin soup and Caesar salad. Back in the room at 9:45. Hurray an early night!
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  • Japanese Wishing Tree.
    Striking red bridge is at the entrance.They change the date daily.Puente de Dios is at the far left.Gardens were quiet and relaxing.Lobby of Theatro Colon.Serious hall way.Some shots inside the Opera House.

    Buenos Aires, Argentina

    4 december 2019, Argentinië ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Japanese Garden. Transfer to Pier to board Viking Jupiter. Opera, Tales of Hoffman

    We woke up at 6:00 had a relaxed breakfast and finished packing in preparation to boarding the Viking Jupiter later in the afternoon.

    We stored our luggage at the hotel and took a taxi to the Japanese gardens of Buenos Aires, located in the neighborhood of Palermo. It was built by the members of Japanese immigrants, and its inauguration was held on May 15, 1967, when the current Emperor of Japan, Akihito, visited the city with his wife, while he was still a prince. The garden was meant as a token of appreciation by the Japanese community to the country that gave them refuge. The garden is run by the Argentine-Japanese Cultural Foundation, with the aim of providing entertainment and culture expansion.

    The elements of this beautiful garden have strong symbolic meanings. All elements seek harmony and balance, essential building blocks in the Japanese culture. One of the first things we saw was the Japanese Wishing Tree. People make special origami notes and leave “wishing” messages in various ways, for hope for the future of the earth
    The bridges represent routes that embody the formation of ideals. One of them has a curved form to represent that it is a difficult journey. It is named Puente de Dios, which means Way to Paradise. The Bright and Beautiful Garden is one of the most peaceful and relaxing areas. It has a wide variety of plants and native trees like the Palo Borracho and Tipani. The Tipani is a beautiful rosewood tree and it was in full bloom with brilliant yellow flowers. The plants and vegetation include an extensive variety of Japanese plants like the Sakura or Cherry, Azalea and Acer Palmatum. Another main attraction is a lake with large carp and their golden colors draw a lot of attention. In the middle of the garden you can see figures of a man and a woman, dressed in samurai style, traditional of Japan.
    We then took a taxi to the Teatro Colon for our guided tour. When we were about 4 blocks away the cab driver said there was a demonstration and that he wouldn’t go any closer so we should get out and walk. I paid the driver, and all seemed fine and then he went a bit crazy. He told me that I had given him a fake 200 pesos. This was the same bill I had received as change from the driver who took us to the Gardens. I apologized and gave him two $100.00-peso bills and we departed. The walk was more like 6 blocks, but we were able to make it to the theatre in time for our tour

    Our guide’s name at the theatre was Collette and she was very good at giving us lots of history and taking us around the theatre and showing us the areas where they had left the walls as they were before the renovation. Both the plaster and the wood were almost black from the smoking of patrons. To strip everything back they had to use putty knives and scrape off layer by layer.
    We started our tour of the opera house and learned that the basement is way bigger than the main floor footprint and actually goes underneath some of the side roads. All of the materials were brought to Argentina from Europe and various countries and were represented in different ways, so they call the architecture eclectic. We went into a couple of the theatre boxes and wondered where we would be sitting when we came back to for the Opera that night. We learned about the widow’s boxes that were totally behind black curtains so they couldn’t be seen nor could they see, but they could hear the music. The Colón Opera Theatre operated for its first venues from 1857 until 1888, after which the building was closed for the construction of a new house. Finally, the new improved house opened on May 25th, 1908 with a performance of Aïda. In the beginning, the theatre recruited opera companies from other countries, but as of 1925 it had its own permanent companies (orchestra, ballet and choir) and its own production workshops, which have allowed the theatre to organise its own performances since the 1930s, funded by the city budget.

    In 2000, the theatre's decline became clear and plans were made for massive renovations. After the start of the restoration in 2005, the theatre had to be closed from October 2006 to May 24, 2010. Finally, the Teatro Colón boasted a building restored to all its original glory, complete with air-conditioning which cost dearly in order to maintain its perfect acoustics. Our guide pointed out how they were able to put all the air conditioning under the floors rather than the ceilings.

    We were so happy to have seen the inside before we went to the production. We took a taxi home and I paid the driver the 200 Pesos that we owed him, and it happened again. The driver said that the 200 pesos bill was counterfeit. I then gave him a 500-peso bill and he gave me back change. We went into the hotel and then the driver came running into the lobby of the hotel and went crazy, yelling at us. The director of customer care for the hotel was there and asked what the problem was. The driver told her that I hadn’t paid him. I said I gave him 500.00 pesos, but when I checked out my money, I realized that when he had given me change for the 500.00, he had not taken out the 200.00 that was owed to him. What a mess. Don tore up the fake 200.00 pesos and I gave him a good 200.00 and finally everyone settled down. We walked down to the bank and took out some more pesos and when we returned Hector was there to take us to the ship.

    When we arrived at the terminal there were hundreds of people lined up and we thought that we would be in line for hours. A Viking representative came up to us and for the next 15 minutes we felt like we were royalty. Our luggage was whisked away, and we were then led from one area to another through the masses of people inside the terminal until we finally reached the customs where again we were whisked through. The whole process took 15 minutes at the most. We were told that the masses were waiting to board the Costa Line ship, also in port. Were we ever glad we weren’t with them!

    We were shown to our room and we headed up to the 7th deck for a quick lunch. We did a quick tour of the ship and found out what we needed to do to go back into town for the Opera that night. at that point our luggage had not been delivered and we were worried that it might not show up in time for us to get properly dressed and more importantly, to get the tickets out of my bag! Well everything worked out, I had time to press some clothes and we headed out again to take the shuttle bus back to the terminal and then grab a taxi back to the theatre. We arrived in lots of time and walked to Café Colon, a block away, for a glass of wine and light supper.

    Back to the theatre, we found our box which was better than we could ever have hoped for. We were the first to arrive at the box and so we picked the best of the 6 seats that were in our box. Another couple arrived, he was from Los Angeles and she was from Chile. Finally, a 3rd couple arrived, and they were from England. Their seats really were not good at all, we felt badly but we were not about to give ours up.

    The Opera was the Tales of Hoffman a fantasy written by Jules Barbier and music written by Jacques Offenbach. It was Offenbach's final work; he died in October 1880, four months before the premiere.
    It is a story about Hoffman and his three fantasy loves. The first a mechanical doll, the second the daughter of a good friend and the third a madame of reputation. He feels these are the 3 sides of his girlfriend Stella. Quite a journey of make believe. There was one piece of music that runs through the story which was pleasing but the rest was not great. Don wanted to leave after 2 acts but stayed on my account and I was happy he did. We left the theatre around 12:00pm expecting to catch a cab right outside but any that were there were all taken. We walked about 4 blocks in a chilling breeze and finally found one, but he had no idea where we wanted to go. We ditched him and then finally, we found another who was able to understand us and returned us to Terminal 4. We took the shuttle back to the ship and then walked around the very quiet floors getting a feel for the location of things and finally returned to our room 5072 to finish unpacking. We were looking forward to having a sleep in.
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  • Part of the fruit section for breakfast.
    One of the numerous public areas on the ship.Hot tub and infinity pool on back deck.A very comfortable common area.Golf anyone?Pool has a closable glass roof.Explorers lounge at bow, Deck 7Mamsen's Lounge and dining area, Deck 7Chef's Table dining room, Deck 1Manfredi's dining room, Deck 1

    Buenos Aires, Argentina Viking Jupiter

    5 december 2019, Argentinië ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Buenos Aires. Viking Jupiter Rest Day on ship

    After a bit of a late-night last night at the opera we were slow getting off the mark this morning. In fact, we barely made it in time for breakfast before they closed the restaurant. There was a complimentary skin analysis, 20-minute session, “take a moment to get to know your skin better”. Lee decided to go and while they did do an analysis on her skin; it was pretty well a sales pitch for products that would help moisturize your skin; you’d think we’d know by now! There were several included tours of Buenos Aires that we could have taken but having spent several days there, we had already done all of them.
    We took a fair amount of time to wander around the ship and get to know it better, including finding the laundry room which is quite well equipped. Lee did a couple of loads of laundry as it wasn’t very busy.

    We thought there might be an “anchors away” celebration on deck so we went up with cocktails in hand but there was no celebration. Additionally, the ship was late in leaving due to traffic in the shipping channel, so we headed down to our pre-arranged dinner at one of the premium restaurants called the Chef’s Table. The menu there was a pre-set, five course “Xiang” Dinner that was a mixture of Asian cultural foods, with 5 wine pairings and it was delicious.

    After dinner we went to the Star Theatre to see a magician, Greg Moreland, perform. He was very good and very humorous. We wandered around a bit more, had a drink in one of the common areas and listened to a classical string duet. It was a great day to just chill out on the ship after a very busy couple of weeks. We finally packed it in for the night around 11:00.
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  • Independcia Plaza. The Artigas Monument is behind tree in the centre.
    There was a Canadian flag flying from the EmbassyPalacia SalvoPart of Teatro Solis.Legislative Counsel.One of many sculptures surrounding the government building.Centenario Football Stadium.One of several life like sculptures in Batlle Ordonez ParkOne of many Iron sculptures on Independence Plaza

    Montevideo, Uruguay

    6 december 2019, Uruguay ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Viking Jupiter. 2 Tours Booked

    Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, is a major city along the Montevideo Bay. Population of Uruguay is 3 million people and Montevideo is one and a half million. It revolves around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja (the old town), with art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre. The southernmost capital city in the Americas, Montevideo is situated on the southern coast of the country, on the northeastern bank of the Río de la Plata.

    Montevideo enjoys a scenic setting on the estuary waters of the Plata River. The Portuguese were the first to settle here hoping to give them a strategic advantage near the open ocean. Between 1680 and 1683, Portugal founded the city of Colonia do Sacramento in the region across the bay from Buenos Aires. Within its walls some of the most impressive colonial era buildings were built, from the Parliamentary Legislative Council building to the stunning Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral. The wall has long since disappeared, but the character of old Montevideo remains. Downtown amid modern skyscrapers, historic neo classical and art deco architecture provide more glimpses into the city’s past, and in the barrio (district) of Carrasco, picturesque private residences recall the posh neighbourhood’s days as a seaside resort.

    This Portuguese city met with no resistance from the Spanish, already established in Buenos Aires, until 22 November 1723, Field Marshal Manuel de Freitas da Fonseca of Portugal built the Montevieu Fort. A Spanish expedition was sent from Buenos Aires and on 22 January 1724, the Spanish forced the Portuguese to abandon the location and started populating the city. It passed between Spain, Portugal, Britain and France over a period of 100 or so years. It became economically important in the mid 1800’s. During the May Revolution of 1810 and the subsequent uprising of the provinces of Rio de la Plata, the Spanish colonial government moved to Montevideo. During that year and the next, Uruguayan revolutionary José Gervasio Artigas 1764-1850 united with others from Buenos Aires against Spain. He was considered the liberator of Montevideo and became their hero.

    In the morning we took A Panorama Tour of Montevideo with our guide Julio.
    This was a bus tour starting at the Independencia Plaza, that separates Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) from downtown Montevideo, with the Gateway of The Citadel on one side and the beginning of 18 de Julio Avenue on the other. July 18, celebrates the first constitution in 1830. In the center, the Artigas Monument dominates the perspective, Artigas' remains are kept in an underground Mausoleum, opened in 1977, beneath his monument. We wandered around the square for about a half hour and then bused out to see the Legislative Council, an impressive building made of national marble. It is considered to be one of the most attractive parliamentary buildings in the world. Parliament has 80 senators 160 representatives, a president for 5 years who cannot be re-elected until out of office for five years.

    We continued to Batlle Ordonez Park (Batlle is spelled correctly!) where we saw the La Carreta Monument. The Carreta was the traditional Uruguayan way to transport in the early days. The sculptor made the moulds in Uruguay but took them to Italy to be cast in bronze. Mussolini wanted to keep it, but the sculptor said no and brought it back to Uruguay.

    We continued on to see the Centenario Stadium, built between 1929 and 1930 to host the inaugural 1930 FIFA World Cup, as well as to commemorate the centennial of Uruguay's first constitution. The normal capacity is ‎60,235, but the record attendance in 1930 was ‎79,987 (Uruguay vs-Yugoslavia). On our way back to the ship we drove along the upscale beach neighbourhood of Pocitos, a long stretch of palm tree- lined beaches lapped by the Plata River. We passed many upscale hotels and high-rises as we returned to port.

    We hurried back for a quick lunch and then set out again for a 3-hour walking tour of Old Town (Ciudad Vieja) Montevideo. Our Guide was Santiago a teacher on a 3-month summer break. We were bussed to Independencia Plaza again to start our tour. Our guide led us to Palacio Salvo, the site was bought by the Salvo brothers.
    The building was originally intended to be a hotel, but this plan didn't work out, and it has since been occupied by a mixture of offices and private residences. It was the tallest building in Latin America for a brief period.
    While walking along the sidewalk looking at all the cast iron sculptures, Don posed with one like a piano player. Unfortunately, he moved forward and hit his shin on a part that stuck out. Ouch!! From there we crossed the plaza to see the monument to Uruguayan revolutionary José Gervasio Artigas. We went down into the Mausoleum, it was very beautifully done in marble. Our guide took us by several buildings that had sculptures in their main lobbies and one that had a number of photos of times in the past. We continued on foot to the Teatro Solis, Uruguay's most important and renowned theatre. It opened in 1856, designed by the Italian architect Carlo Zucchi, they claim it has excellent acoustics, probably not as good as Teatro Colon ,Buenos Aries.

    We passed through the Gateway of The Citadel, the last of the existing walls of the old Fortress, to the cobbled streets in Old Town that were closed to vehicles. We continued through the Gateway of The Citadel, the last of the existing walls of the old Fortress, to the cobbled streets in Old Town that were closed to vehicles. We passed many street vendors with their tables filled with everything you could imagine, for sale. We continued on to Plaza de la Constitution also known as Plaza Matriz, the oldest plaza in Montevideo. It is located in the first part of the city that was built. We saw a lovely fountain monument and toured the interior of the 18th century Metropolitan Cathedral. At Zabala Square we learned that in 1878, during the dictatorship of Colonel Lorenzo Latorre, it was decided to demolish the old fort and build a public square in its place. The most important landmark in the square is the equestrian statue of Bruno Mauricio de Zabala, who founded Montevideo in 1724. We entered the Taranco Palace, erected on the site of Montevideo's first theatre in the historical centre of the city which had been built in 1793. The Taranco Ortiz family commissioned the construction of the building in 1907 and it was completed in 1910. In 1943 the Uruguayan state purchased the residence and part of the furniture and gained access to its works of art, but it wasn't until 1972 that it became a museum, and it was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1975.

    We headed back to the ship noting the largest Uruguayan bank, opened in 1896. Our last stop was at the Mercado del Puerto. This building, constructed from steel, is one of Uruguay’s main attractions. It’s located in the older part of the city, right across from the port of Montevideo, and it was originally a market for fruit, vegetables, and meat. Today, it’s still called the “Harbor Market,” but there aren’t quite as many stalls and stands. Instead, it hosts a good range of restaurants with counters facing in towards the barbecue, where people can sit and enjoy one of Uruguay’s most traditional dishes: asado, which consists of a barbecue including all types of meat, sausages, and organ meats. A really interesting market and we would have liked to stay and enjoy the smells and ambiance, but our bus was waiting to take us back to the ship.

    It was a beautiful evening as we left from the port. There were lots of people out on the breakwater fishing and enjoying the sun.

    At 6:30 we went to a lecture by Dr Richard Bates about the making of South America. He started 4.6 billion years ago and followed through all the Eras and periods.

    Precambrian Era, 4.6B -540 Million yrs. From the Big Bang era to the start of the lands forming and shifting. The only multicellular life forms at the end of this were in the oceans and included some groups that have survived until the present: jellyfishes and segmented worm

    Palaeozoic Era, 540 - 251 Million. Cambria Period, 540-489 Million. Ordovician Period, 488-359 million. Devonia Period, 416-359 million. This is when a lot of the subduction of ocean basins and mountain building took place. Carboniferous Period, 359-299 million. Some trees starting to grow but South America was still in the ice age. Permian Period, 299-251 Million. Some animals evolving but It ended in the largest mass extinction the Earth has ever known. The emerging supercontinent of Pangaea presented severe extremes of climate and environment due to its vast size. The south was cold and arid, with much of the region frozen under ice caps.

    Mesozoic Era, 251 Million- 65 Million.
    Triassic Period, 251 M -202 Million. It followed the great mass extinction at the end of the Permian Period and was a time when life outside of the oceans began to diversify.
    Jurassic Period, 202-146 Million The supercontinent Pangaea split apart. The northern half, known as Laurentia, was splitting into landmasses that would eventually form North America and Eurasia, opening basins for the central Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico
    Cretacious Period, 146-65 Million. Antarctic moves south. Aconcagua subduction and highest mountain in South America formed in Argentina

    Cenzoic Era, 65 Million -0 Million
    Paleogene Period, 65-23 Million. The Americas joined Antarctica over the South Pole. Australia separated from Antarctica, India crashed into Asia creating the Himalayan Mountains, Antarctica was covered by glaciers, Sea levels were low.
    Neogene Period, 23 Million to Present - a time when the continents continued to crash into each other. Italy moved north into Europe raising the Alps. Spain crashed into France to form the Pyrenees. The Rocky Mountains and the Andes Mountains formed in North and South America during this time.

    It was a fascinating lecture and really well presented. We left and continued on into dinner and then a stroll around the ship and off to bed.
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  • Wine tasting layout.

    Montevideo,Uruguay

    7 december 2019, Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Montevideo to Puerto Madryn. Viking Jupiter. At Sea. Day 1

    This morning we had a quick breakfast and then down to the Star Lounge for a lecture on the “History of Argentina” by Dr. Mark Callaghan.

    Before Europeans came to Argentina it was thinly populated. In the Northwest people grew crops such as potatoes and squash. They sometimes lived in walled towns and they used metal and made pottery. However, most of the indigenous people lived by hunting animals and gathering plants. They continued their hunter-gatherer lifestyle until the late 19th century.

    Europeans arrived in what is now Argentina in the 16th century. In 1516 Juan de Solis reached the River Plata but he was killed by the natives. He was followed by Sebastian Cabot who reached the River Plata area in 1526. Then in 1536 Pedro de Mendoza led an expedition to the area and he built a fort. However, the Spaniards were forced to withdraw by hostile natives. Nevertheless, later in the 16th century several towns were founded in the Northwest of what is now Argentina. Buenos Aires was founded in 1580 to give access to the sea. Yet the southern part of Argentina was left in the hands of the natives. Finally, in 1776 a new Viceroy of the River Plata was formed with Buenos Aires as its capital.

    In 1806 the British captured Buenos Aires but they were forced to withdraw. In 1807 they attacked the city again, but they were repelled. Nevertheless, links between Argentina and Spain weakened in the early 19th century especially after 1808 when Napoleon forced the Spanish king to abdicate and made his own brother king of Spain. Finally, on 25 May 1810 the Viceroy was deposed, and a junta took control of Argentina. However, the junta did not break all links with Spain until 1816. The United Provinces of the River Plata was declared on 9 July 1816.This date is celebrated each year as Independence Day.

    Argentina in the 19th Century
    At first the United Provinces consisted of what is now Argentina, Bolivia and Uruguay. However, the new state was bitterly divided between unitarists who wanted a strong central government and federalists who wanted a loose federation of provinces. Eventually in the 1820s the new state broke up. Bolivia became independent in 1825 and Uruguay was created as a buffer state between Argentina and Brazil in 1828. In 1835 General Juan Manuel de Rosas became dictator of Argentina. He was a federalist but ironically, he introduced a strong (and repressive) central government. However, Rosas eventually alienated many people in the provinces and in 1852 a rebellion removed him from power.

    The first railroad in Argentina was built in 1857. It was followed by many others. By 1900 there were over 10,000 miles of railroad in Argentina and by 1912 over 20,000 miles. The railways made it much easier to transport produce to the coast for export. Argentina exported meat, wool and grain and by 1900 she was the richest country in South America. Meanwhile the population of Argentina boomed partly due to immigrants from Spain and Italy. By the end of the century the population of Argentina was about 4 million.

    Argentina in the 20th Century
    In the 1920s Argentina was the 7th richest country in the world. However, Argentina, like the rest of the world, was affected by the Wall Street Crash. In 1930 the army staged a coup and General Jose F. Uriburu became president of Argentina. Another election was held in 1937. Despite many accusations of electoral fraud Roberto Ortiz became president Ill health forced Ortiz to hand over power to Castillo in 1940. In 1943 the army staged another coup. After the 1943 coup Juan Peron gradually emerged as leader. In 1946 he was elected president. Peron introduced a number of welfare measures and nationalized industries. Peron was re-elected in 1951 but he gradually lost support. In 1955 a revolution called the Revolution of Liberation forced Peron to flee abroad.

    In January 1944 Argentina severed diplomatic relations with Germany and Japan. Finally, on 27 March 1945 Argentina declared war on Germany. Several short-lived governments followed. In 1958 Arturo Frondizi was elected president of Argentina but the military removed him, in 1962. More elections were held in 1963 and Dr. Arturo Illia became president. The military removed him in 1966. The military dictatorship did not bring peace. In May 1969 rioting broke out in Cordoba. The unrest spread throughout Argentina. Meanwhile inflation raged.

    In 1973 the army allowed more elections and the Peronists (supporters of Peron) won. A Peronist called Hector Campora became president. Peron then returned from exile and Campora resigned to make way for him. More elections were held in September 1973 and Peron became president. However, Peron died in 1974 and his widow Isabel Peron (Evita) took power. Under her rule inflation and unrest continued. Finally, in March 1976 the army seized power again.

    Argentina then suffered a brutal military dictatorship during which thousands of people 'disappeared' during a 'dirty war'. Meanwhile inflation continued to rage, and Argentina became heavily indebted. In the early 1980s, despite the repression protests spread across Argentina. To try and divert people's minds from their problems the junta invaded the Falkland Islands on 2 April 1982. However, the war turned into a disaster when the British quickly recaptured the islands.
    Meanwhile the Argentinean economy was in dire straits. Eventually the junta allowed elections in October 1983. Raul Alfonsin took office on 13 December 1983. Alfonsin was unable to solve the problem of hyperinflation in Argentina despite austerity plans introduced in 1985 and 1987. In 1989 Alfonsin handed over power peacefully to the next elected president Carlos Saul Menem. During the 1990s Menem managed to curb inflation and he privatized industry.

    Argentina in the 21st Century
    In 2001-2002 Argentina suffered a severe recession. However, the economy then grew strongly for a few years. Today the economy of Argentina is growing steadily.
    Meanwhile in October 2007 Cristina Kirchner became the first elected woman president of Argentina. Then in 2015 Mauricio Macri was elected president.
    Government raises interest rates dramatically in an effort to shore up the tumbling value of the peso currency.
    2019 October - Peronist candidate Alberto Fernández wins the presidential election, becoming the first challenger to oust a sitting Argentinean president. He was sworn into power December 10, 2019 and is taking a strong stance on improving the economy. So far everything going in right direction.
    Lee then did her deck walking and we had lunch at the pool grill. Don had booked himself to go to a wine tasting in the afternoon, which he enjoyed. Lee did laundry and rested. We went to the Star Theatre to hear Lou Thieblemont’s lecture “Exploring the Cosmos” -The history of Astronomy.

    This was a very low key day. We had dinner and went to the Star Theatre for an Abba Songbook presentation by the Jupiter Vocalists.

    An interesting Nautical Term was in our newsletter. Blind Eye. In 1801,during the Battle of Copenhagen, Admiral Nelson deliberately held his telescope up to his blind eye so that he would not see the flag signal from the commander to stop the bombardment. Nelson won. Turning a “Blind Eye” means to “intentionally ignore”
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  • Aquavit Bar/Resturant at stern of ship.
    Dinner tonight at "The Resturant"Menu.Peking Duck with hoisin sauce.Pretty spiffy looking couple.Dessert. Asian Trilogy.Atrium with Christmas decorations.

    Enroute Montevideo to Puerto Madryn

    8 december 2019, Río de la Plata ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Viking Jupiter. Day at Sea.

    A “sleep in” day, had breakfast and then a walk on the promenade on Deck 2. Very windy especially at the bow on the port side. Don decided he would go up to the 8th deck to see how it was up there, but it was far too windy, and they had all the furniture tied down.

    At 11:00 we went to the lecture about the tours to Puerto Madryn for tomorrow. We learned that the tour we had booked for tomorrow to see Magellan penguins, was 8 hours long and that 5 of those hours would be on a bus on gravel roads and very bumpy, with no toilettes on board. The penguins are named after Ferdinand Magellan who originally founded this area. There were supposed to be over 1000 with new chicks, however we decided to cancel. We booked instead a 5-hour tour out in the country to a Welsh town called Gaiman to have a Welsh Tea and then a tour of Puerto Madryn on the way back. We decided to go for lunch to the bar/restaurant, “Aquavit”, at the rear of the ship on Deck 7. It was a lovely sunny day and they were serving Caesar salad with shrimp and salmon, with a delicious barbeque and the deck was packed. We ended up eating inside the sliding glass door as there were no tables available outside. We sat with a couple from Washington DC. And had a lovely chat.

    After lunch we spent some time out on the pool deck and then at 6:30pm we went to a lecture about “The Sun “which was very confusing even though the lecturer tried to simplify it for us. It was all about the atoms in the sun and how it produces Earth’s lifegiving energy.

    For dinner we met up with Gordon and Vicky in The Restaurant and had another lovely dinner. With glasses of wine in hand plus a plate of cheese that Lee assembled from our dessert, we headed for the evening entertainment at 9:15 by a “classical cross-over pianist”, Reuel, who played his arrangements of popular songs from Adele, Frank Sinatra, Bon Jovi and many more. Partway through the performance he played a rather romantic tune and suggested that we reach out and touch the leg of our loved one sitting next to us, which Don did…… and promptly stuck his finger into the plate of cheese in Lee’s lap. We sure had a laugh over that.

    Since we didn’t have to get up so early the next morning, we decided to go to the late-night bar called Torshavn to see what it was like. A very cozy room with a small dance floor. When we arrived, there was a girl rather quietly singing folk music. Then at 10:00 the Viking band and Resident vocalists Judith and Arvin took over. They played some popular tunes and then they livened it up to play 60’and 70’s music. Great dancing and then back to some slower tunes. We left around 11:30 and by then there was just one other couple there.
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  • Puerto Madryn, Argentina

    9 december 2019, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Viking Jupiter. Puerto Madryn. Tour to Gaiman.

    After a bit of late-night dancing, we slept in. We had breakfast in the Mamsen’s lounge because we were too late for all the other breakfast locations. Breakfast consisted of a fancy waffle with caramelized cheese curls, berries and maple syrup.

    We changed our itinerary to go on today’s five-hour tour to visit Gaiman, one of the first Welsh settlements about an hour away from Puerto Madryn. Puerto Madryn is in the state of Patagonia, has a population of about 100,000 people and is nestled on the sheltered harbour facing the Gulf of Nuevo, Argentina’s second largest fishing port during the mid 19th century. (Currently, most of the fish caught are exported as Argentinians do not eat much fish.)

    The Argentine government encouraged European immigration to settle in the remote Patagonian territories promising them land at a very cheap price. In 1865 approximately 150 Welsh immigrants arrived in Puerto Madryn, led by Viscount Madryn settling 100 square miles of land along the Chabut river, including Gaiman. Puerto Madryn was the name for the estate of Sir Love Jones-Perry one of the colonies’ founders. Italians and Spaniards soon followed surpassing the Welsh in numbers, but the heritage of the original immigrants lives on in the region’s distinctive windmills and chapels. Several towns have retained their Welsh names. The river that flows through this area is called the Chabut river. The area is also known for its cherry production and as soon as we pulled into town, we saw lots and lots of cherry trees in full fruit mode. We saw many examples of the original Welsh homes that were made of stone which is a rarity in Argentina.

    Our tour took us to a special Welsh tea house offering, among other things, homemade scones, sweet squares and welsh cake. The cake looked like our Christmas cake, dark colour, but very little fruit, lacking the rum and actually, lacking any sign of moisture. At the end of our visit a choir of about 12 people entertained us with 6-7 songs in both Welsh and Spanish. One was what I assumed was the Welsh national anthem plus several hymns. The harmony was sensational.

    The children going to public schools wear white uniforms and those going to private schools wear coloured uniforms.

    Another factor that led us to change to a shorter excursion was that the geography of the area was described as totally boring and it certainly lived up to that. Millions of years ago a volcano spewed about 5 feet of volcanic ash and spread it on the steppes or plateau-like landscape that used to be the bottom of an ancient sea. Basically, it’s a flat desert. Part of the road was quite rough but then smoothed out a short bit later. Our guide Nora pointed out a highway that was supposed to be finished 10 years ago but corruption and misdirected money put an end to the construction. On the way, Lee saw a couple of 5 Guanaco which look a bit like Llamas, only taller. There was the possibility of seeing some pumas but no luck. Dinosaurs have been found in this area, among them one claimed to be the largest Dinosaur in the world named Argentinosaurus. Wikipedia advised the length ranges from 30 to 39.7 metres (98 to 130 ft) and weight estimates from 50 to 100 tonnes. It was a member of Titanosauria, the dominant group of sauropods during the Cretaceous period. (The smallest were the size of Hummingbirds!) They found more than 100 skeletons.

    One of the most popular drinks in Argentina, is, as in Ecuador, Mate. Leaves for this popular drink come from a tropical tree which grows to approximately a metre and a half. The mate tree grows in only one area of Argentina and in fact in the world. The area is called Missiones near Iguazu in the very northeast of Argentina by the border of Brazil. It’s from this area that they export Mate leaves to Brazil to Uruguay and Paraguay. The drink is said to help the liver plus keep you from becoming thirsty and importantly for bus drivers it helps keep them awake. As a result, most bus drivers suck this down all day long.

    The drive back to Port Madryn was uneventful. In the 1970s the city was very prosperous because of the aluminum plants and then, in the 1980s, it became a significant whale watching town. We passed by large spectator stands where people could view the whales in the bay as close as several hundred meters away. During the breeding they can be frequently seen breaching and swimming with their newborn calves.

    The beach in Puerto Madryn runs for about five or 6 km. It is very wide and unfortunately, at low tide, the beach is left strewn with a lot of seaweed which turns the beach green and rather stinky. However, they have tractors with drags that clean it up in the morning so people can enjoy the beach. The temperature got close to 30°C by the afternoon so there were all kinds of people on the beach.

    We spent a very enjoyable afternoon by the infinity pool on the back deck with a pleasant temperature and no wind. It was a lot of fun to be in the infinity pool looking out the back of the ship.

    We attended the 6:30pm lecture by the resident astronomer on the topic “How Big is Space”. Quite mind blowing and difficult to follow but hopefully we will remember a few of the facts.
    After dinner we went to hear Andy Hackbarth a classical Guitarist and comedian. He entertained us for an hour.
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  • Light lunch.....with beer and wine!
    Shows roof closed over swimming pool and cafe.

    Puerto Madryn to Falkland Islands

    10 december 2019, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day at Sea. Basically, a lecture day. Before breakfast, Lee did 10 laps (4 km) on the promenade deck, again battling the wind on the port bow. We met for breakfast and then off to the 11:00am talk to outline tomorrow's Falkland Islands tours.

    At 12:30 we went to the pool deck for lunch. The cover was over today, and it was a very warm 29 C. We had a light lunch and then Don went to the cabin to edit some notes and I stayed on deck editing some of our earlier notes. I debated whether to go for a swim but ended up just basking in the sun.

    At 4:00pm we headed to the Star Theatre for a talk on the Hubble Space Telescope. It was an informative talk with lots of humour included.

    We had a half hour break and the next talk was on the history of the Falkland Islands and how Argentina and Britain fought over the islands. In 1982. Margaret Thatcher sent 124 vessels along with 3 aircraft carriers to take back the islands. The war lasted for 74 days and there were a lot of casualties on both sides. There is still much discussion on the Argentinian side about wanting the Falkland Islands back, but the inhabitants of the Falklands do not want to be taken over; they want to stay as British residents.

    We had another ½ hour until the next lecture about Darwin, so Lee went up and got a plate of sushi and Don got 2 glasses of wine. We ate this in the theatre while waiting for the next talk. Gord and Vickie thought this was such a clever idea that Gord also went and got a plate of sushi.

    The lecture by Dr. Richard Bates was about Darwin and the HMS Beagle. Charles Robert Darwin was born February 12, 1809, Shrewsbury, Shropshire, England and died April 19, 1882 at Downe, Kent. His mother died when he was 8. Darwin stood in awe of his overbearing father; whose astute medical observations taught him much about human psychology. He hated the rote learning of Classics at the traditional Anglican Shrewsbury School, where he studied between 1818 and 1825. His father sent him to study medicine at Edinburgh University. There was no better science education in a British university. He was taught to understand the chemistry of cooling rocks on the primitive Earth and how to classify plants by the modern “natural system.” At the Edinburgh Museum he was taught to stuff birds by John Edmonstone, a freed South American slave, and to identify the rock strata and colonial flora and fauna. The young Darwin learned much in this rich intellectual environment but didn't learn much about medicine. His father transferred him to Cambridge in 1828. In 1831 he placed 10th in the Bachelor of Arts degree.

    Darwin jumped at a suggestion of a voyage to Tierra del Fuego, at the southern tip of South America, aboard a rebuilt brig, HMS Beagle. Darwin would not sail as a lowly surgeon-naturalist but as a self-financed gentleman companion to the 26-year-old captain, Robert Fitzroy, an aristocrat who feared the loneliness of command. Fitzroy planned to survey coastal Patagonia to facilitate British trade and return three “savages” previously brought to England from Tierra del Fuego and Christianized. The Beagle sailed from England on December 27, 1831.

    The circumnavigation of the globe would be the making of the 22-year-old Darwin. Five years of physical hardship and mental rigor, imprisoned within a ship’s walls, offset by wide-open opportunities in the Brazilian jungles and the Andes Mountains, were to give Darwin a new seriousness. As a gentleman naturalist, he could leave the ship for extended periods, pursuing his own interests. As a result, he spent only 18 months of the voyage aboard the ship.

    His fossil discoveries raised more questions and fossil extraction became a romance for Darwin. It pushed him into thinking of the primeval world and what had caused giant beasts to become extinct.

    The land was evidently rising; Darwin’s observations in the Andes Mountains confirmed it. After the Beagle surveyed the Falkland Islands, the ship sailed up the west coast of South America to Valparaíso, Chile. Here Darwin climbed 4,000 feet (1,200 metres) into the Andean foothills and marveled at the forces that could raise such mountains. The forces themselves became tangible when he saw volcanic Mount Osorno erupt on January 15, 1835. Then in Valdivia, Chile, on February 20, as he lay on a forest floor, the ground shook: the violence of the earthquake and ensuing tidal wave destroyed the great city of Concepción, whose rubble Darwin walked through. But what intrigued him was the seemingly insignificant, the local mussel beds were all dead because they were now above high tide. The land had risen, the continent was thrusting itself up, a few feet at a time. He imagined the eons it had taken to raise the fossilized trees in sandstone (once seashore mud) to 7,000 feet (2,100 metres), where he found them. Darwin began thinking in terms of deep time.

    The Beagle left Peru in September 1835 to continue their circumnavigation home. First Darwin landed on the “frying hot” Galapagos Islands. Those were volcanic islands, crawling with marine life, iguanas and giant tortoises. Darwin and the crew brought small tortoises aboard as pets. Contrary to legend, those islands never provided Darwin’s “eureka” moment. Although he noted that the mockingbirds differed on four islands and tagged his specimens accordingly, he failed to label his other birds—what he thought were wrens, “gross-beaks,” finches, and oriole-relatives—by island. Nor did Darwin collect tortoise specimens, even though locals believed that each island had its distinct race.

    They continued home via Tahiti, New Zealand, and Australia. By April 1836, when the Beagle made the Cocos (Keeling) Islands in the Indian Ocean, Darwin already had his theory of reef formation. He imagined (correctly) that those reefs grew on sinking mountain rims. The delicate coral built up, compensating for the drowning land, so as to remain within optimal heat and lighting conditions.

    On the last leg of the voyage Darwin finished his 770-page diary, wrapped up 1,750 pages of notes, drew up 12 catalogs of his 5,436 skins, bones, and carcasses—and still he wondered: Was each Galapagos mockingbird a naturally produced variety? Why did ground sloths become extinct? He sailed home with problems enough to last him a lifetime. Darwin formulated his bold theory in private in 1837–39, after returning from the voyage around the world aboard HMS Beagle. It was not until two decades later that he finally gave it full public expression in On the Origin of Species (1859), a book that has deeply influenced modern Western society and thought.

    Darwin shocked religious Victorian society by suggesting that animals and humans shared a common ancestry. His nonreligious biology appealed to the rising class of professional scientists, and by the time of his death, evolutionary imagery had spread through all of science, literature, and politics. He had a seizure in March 1882 and died of a heart attack on April 19. Darwin was laid to rest with full ecclesiastical pomp on April 26, 1882, attended by the new nobility of science and the state

    We had dinner with Vicki and Gord and then we decided to skip the Magician, tonight’s entertainment and called it an early night.
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  • Nice welcome to Stanley, capital of the Falkland Islands.
    It is mostly about the Penguins.Tidy homes lined the street where we landed.On our way to see the Penguins.Pretty desolate landscapes.Lambs mixed easily with Penguins at the colony.Gentoo penguins at Berthas Beach, heading towards their nesting spot on land.Piles of poop everywhere at the nests.They can really move fast.

    Stanley, Falkland Islands

    11 december 2019, Falkland Eilanden ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Falkland Islands. Penguins. Private Guide, Carlos.

    We had a leisurely breakfast this morning and got on the tender for a 20-minute ride to the port city of Stanley which is the capital of Falkland Islands. The tender held 150 people and was modern and comfortable. When we got off, we saw lots of guides holding signs offering private tours. It was only 11 o’clock, and we realized there really wasn’t much to see right at the port and we would have a long wait for our included tour scheduled at 3:00. We decided to choose a private tour guide, Carlos. He took Lee to a bank to get some money because the guides don’t take credit cards and only accept The Falkland Pound. While I was waiting for Lee to get the money, I saw across the bay, white stones spelling out the names of ships. Endurance, Protector, Beagle, Clyde, Barracuda and Dumbarton. It turned out that these are the names of ships that have provided prolonged periods of protection for the islanders and are still in action.

    Carlos was born in Chile and stayed there until he was about 16 when he moved to New Jersey in the States. He returned to Chile when he was 20 and fell in love, married and had 2 girls. He moved to The Islands about 6 years ago when his girls were 12 and 10. When we asked him why he liked the Falklands so much he said it was very safe and secure, free of crime and drugs. Education is paid for including University off island, if the student elects to go to a university. In this case, the government pays the base rate and the student tops up depending on their choice of university.

    He gave a lot of random information along the way. Remarkably there are about 200 sheep for every person in this starkly beautiful archipelago, yet the Falklands are also known for their biological diversity. Five penguin species call the islands home, from the King penguins that waddle along Volunteer Beach to the Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins on further shores.

    -There is only one bank in Stanley, two supermarkets, five bars and two churches.
    -With the soil being clay, it’s hard to grow much of anything and he gave us some examples of pricing at the grocery store. One avocado cost 3/1/2 Falkland pounds, ($6.10 Canadian ) I litre of milk costs 1 pound and 3 pence.($2.26)
    -He told us that if he hits a sheep on the highway that he has to take it to a vet. The vet by virtue of tags knows how to contact the owner and the owner will tell him how much he needs to pay and then you can take the sheep home and eat it if you want.
    -They don’t use the water in the lakes but rather collect and recycle water from the mountains and rainwater.
    -They have one horse racetrack in Port Stanley, but betting is illegal in this country. However, they open the racetrack for special holidays including over Christmas and New Year’s.
    -Windmills provide about 60% of the hydro power for the island.

    On our 1-hour drive to see the penguins at Bertha's Beach, we passed through one of the largest farms on the island called Fitzroy. It was named after Captain Robert FitzRoy of HMS Beagle that Darwin sailed with in 1833. It is now owned by Luciano Benneton owner of the Italian clothing company Benneton. He owns several farms totalling 2,220,00 acres. The Spanish name for sheep farms is Estancias.

    We also passed by the military base, RAF Mount Pleasant, which has its own school as well as the islands International airport. Just the day before, a Chilean Hercules plane crashed somewhere in the ocean just off the coast of the Falklands and all 32 people on board are feared lost. We saw the rescue planes searching for floating debris. We saw where the cargo ships dock at Mare Harbour necessitating all goods to be transported by truck for an hour before reaching Stanley. Currently, the harbour at Stanley is too shallow for ships to dock, (which is why we had to tender in).

    Once we reached Bertha's Beach, we walked about 300 meters towards the beach and saw hundreds of sheep with their newly born lambs and hundreds more Gentoo penguins hopping up towards three separate large nesting sites, about 300 meters from the ocean. They all mill around with each other, sheep and penguins, neither bothering the other. These penguins grow up to three feet tall and are a riot to watch. Their eggs are just now hatching, some have one chick and others have two. They are very organized in caring for their young and one parent does not leave the chicks until the parent takes over and moves onto the nest. In this way, they keep the eggs warm and safe from predators.

    The drive back was over the same route and Carlos graciously took us to Gypsy Cove, the destination of the tour we would have otherwise taken. It was fairly close to the ship. The location was a very expansive beach and there were maybe a thousand Magellanic penguins moving back from the beach to the burrows that they dug for a nest (rather like Groundhog holes) up on the hills. These penguins are shorter than the Gentoos at about 2 feet. How they hop up the steep cliffs back to their burrows is hard to understand but they do. They will get to within about 15 feet of humans and just wait till they move, to continue their trip back to their burrows.

    Known as the Islas Malvina's to Argentines, the Falkland Islands are a British overseas territory comprising 770 small islands. The population of the Falklands is only about 5,000 people. The islands were uninhabited when discovered by Europeans. France established a colony on the islands in 1764. In 1765, a British captain claimed the islands for Britain. In early 1770 a Spanish commander arrived from Argentina with five ships and 1,400 soldiers forced the British to leave Port Egmont. Britain and Spain almost went to war over the islands, but the British government decided that it should withdraw its presence from many overseas settlements in 1774. Spain, which had a garrison at Puerto Soledad on East Falklands, administered the garrison from Montevideo until 1811 when it was compelled to withdraw by pressures resulting from the Peninsular War. In 1833, the British returned to the Falkland Islands and had sovereignty. The government of Argentina continued to have a hard time accepting this.

    At a time when the president of Argentina was experiencing problems at home with low approval ratings, he decided that declaring a war to reclaim the islands would bolster his approval rate. Argentina invaded the islands on 2 April 1982.
    At the same time Margaret Thatcher was experiencing the same problems in the UK and it was a perfect opportunity to take action and retaliate. The British responded with an expeditionary force that culminated in Argentina surrendering. It was a nasty war, lasting 10 weeks, taking the lives of 649 Argentine military and 255 British and 3 Falkland citizens. And the casualties for both sides to military aircraft and ships was extensive. One of Argentina’s strategies to protect the Falklands from the inevitable British invasion, was to plant up to 30,000 land mines along the shores where they expected the invasion to land. Some of the mines were cleared after the war and those areas that were still not cleared were fenced off. While we were watching the penguins, we saw a party of 6 men on the beach in yellow suits, all from Zimbabwe, who were searching for land mines left behind and still not discovered from the war between the UK and Argentina in 1982. Partway through the production of the mines, they changed from metal to plastic, so are very hard to detect. There are 5 more areas to clear at this time, but they expect to be finished by next year.

    On the final leg back to the ship we passed by the wreck of Lady Elizabeth, a cargo ship carrying lumber from Vancouver. On the 4th of December, 1912 it encountered severe weather halfway through the voyage and was damaged just off Cape Horn. The Captain ordered the ship to the nearest port for repairs. Lady Elizabeth altered course for Stanley, Falkland Islands. 24 km outside Port Stanley, Lady Elizabeth struck a rock. The ship began to sink but was able to get to Port Stanley for repairs. She was declared unseaworthy and converted into a coal hulk. February 17 1936 her mooring lines broke during a storm and she drifted to where she now lies on her side in Whalebone Cove in Stanley Harbour rusting away.

    Our final stop was to buy a copy of the local weekly newspaper, called, appropriately, The Penguin News!

    We thoroughly enjoyed this private tour and definitely saw a lot more than if we had been on the ship’s planned tour.

    Tonight, the entertainment was Beatlemania, a fun hour long program led by the ships vocalists.
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  • Relaxing in the Explores lounge on Deck 8.
    Inside the PlanetariumPretty spiffy for rushed lunch.Cruising toward Cape HornRed sky at night, a sailors delight? We will see tomorrow.

    Cruising towards Cape Horn

    12 december 2019, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Viking Jupiter. Day at Sea

    Oh dear, another day at sea. I wonder what we will do today.

    First off for a walk on the 2nd deck before breakfast. Don is enjoying all the breakfast specials, eggs benedict, waffles, French toast, lots of bacon, sausages, as well as having his fruit and yoghurt each morning. Lee just sticks with fruit, yoghurt and granola, I save myself for the fabulous dinners each night.

    Our cruise director, Heather Clancy, is an opera singer so this is her day. At 1:30 we will see a “Live from the Met” Presentation of Aida from 2012. At 10:30 Heather will give a lecture about the Metropolitan Opera, Giuseppe Verdi (the composer) and the opera Aida. Have to fit lunch in between 11:30 and 1:30. We have an afternoon break after 3:30 until 5:15 when there is a lecture about Sir Ernest Shackleton and his daring exploits exploring the Antarctic. We will go to the next lecture “A look at the Night Sky” at 6:30. Dinner is booked in the Chefs Table at 7:30. And we will catch a bit of the performance by Reuel on his piano at 9:15.
    Not much worrying about what to do.

    Here is the Nautical term of the Day: Go for the Pig and Whistle. This term was used in the early sailing days of the English Navy. Once a week, the sailors were allowed a ration of rum (known as the “pig”). A young sailor would be sent down to the cargo hold to get the rum and told to “get the pig and whistle.” If he stopped whistling while he was out of sight, he was believed to be drinking the rum and so was lashed.

    Don went to the first lecture about the opera and agreed to go to the presentation but only lasted until intermission and then he left to go to the pool deck.

    The lecture about Shackleton was fascinating. Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton (15 February 1874 – 5 January 1922) was an Irish explorer who led three British expeditions to the Antarctic. Shackleton's first experience in the polar regions was as third officer on Captain Robert Falcon Scott's Discovery expedition of 1901–1904. The 2nd was the Nimrod expedition of 1907–1909. He and three companions established a new farthest south record by reaching latitude 88°S, 180 kilometres from the South Pole. It was the largest advance to the pole in exploration history. Also, members of his team climbed Mount Erebus, the most active Antarctic volcano. For these achievements, Shackleton was knighted by King Edward VII on his return home.

    In December 1911, Roald Amundsen's was the first to reach the South Pole and ended the race to be the first. Shackleton then turned his attention to the crossing of Antarctica from sea to sea, via the pole.

    In 1914 Shackleton set off on an expedition consisting of 27 men on board the sailing vessel Endurance. His hope was to become the first man to cross Antarctica. Due to an unusually thick ice pack and a freak wind shift, they were trapped in the Weddell Sea not far from their planned Antarctica landing, where they drifted frozen in the ice flow for many months until the ship was crushed by ice and finally sunk. The men eventually made their way to Elephant Island in 3 lifeboats, but given that there was no hope of rescue, Shackleton set off with 4 other men in a makeshift 23 ft sailboat with a mostly open deck. 16 days and 800 miles later they arrived on the desolate west shores of South Georgia, where due to the poor condition of their boat, Ernest was forced to cross the mountainous spine of the island on foot. 36 hours later, despite the lack of any surveys, they managed to find their way to the small whaling station of Stromness and were then taken to Grytviken where Shackleton mounted 3 rescue attempts to save the men on Elephant island. The 4th (the first major Chilean Navy rescue mission) was successful and miraculously, every man survived the ordeal. They returned to England in 1917. In 1921, he returned to the Antarctic with the Shackleton–Rowett Expedition but died of a heart attack while his ship was moored in South Georgia. At his wife's request, he was buried there.

    The lecture on the night sky was about the Southern sky and Lou Thieblemont was hoping we would be able to go out on deck that night to see the skies. Unfortunately, it was a thick cloud cover so no go.

    Our dinner tonight was a 5-course dinner, complete with wine parings was called La Route Des Indes designed to feature a variety of spices. The Silk and Spice Road existed in the 3rd century BC running from China though modern-day Iran and Iraq through to Europe. Other goods also came with the silk; including cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, nutmeg, mace and long pepper and they were worth a fortune. The lure of the spices spurred the age of exploration, colonization and discovery. This led to new previously unknown edibles and plants like vanilla, chocolate and chilies. Another gourmet dinner, we love eating here, and will try and book more times.

    The performance by Reuel was excellent. Another busy day at sea!
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  • Puerto William.
    Almost anticlimactic. Where are the waves?Quite chilly on deck.Happy for the calm seas.

    Enroute to Cape Horn

    13 december 2019, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Viking Jupiter. Day at sea . Cape Horn

    When we woke this morning at 8:00am, we were just drifting in the ocean off Puerto Williams where we were being cleared through Chilean Customs and immigration. No action was required on our part as the ship has all our passports. The process was supposed to take an hour, but I think it took 2 hours.

    We are now in Chilean waters and have a Chilean navigator on board. We were advised that we won’t make it to Cape Horn until 4:30 or later this afternoon. The weather is cloudy and temperature between zero and 5 degrees. We had a leisurely breakfast and went back to our room to catch up on notes, laundry, and watched some of the previous lectures on television.

    Discovering Cape Horn
    An old maritime saying claims that: “Below 40 degrees latitude, there is no law. Below 50 degrees, there is no God”. Cape Horn, which lies at 55°56’ south latitude and 67°19’ west longitude, certainly fits the sentiments of this adage. Sudden, violent squalls called williwaw winds are common: gusts resulting from the cold, dense air from ice fields of coastal mountains in Patagonia being forced down by gravity to the sea. These winds can strike ships with little warning and are one of the reasons why it is notoriously difficult to round the horn. Waves can also reach heights of over 30 m. while an average of 270 days of rainfall per year, including 70 days of snow, can restrict visibility.

    Explorers had been navigating the southern seas around the South American continent for over a century before Cape Horn was officially discovered. Further north, the Strait of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego had been discovered by Portuguese Captain Ferdinand Magellan in 1520.

    Later in the century, Francis Drake and his crew were blown off course in 1578 and discovered the Drake Passage, refuting the belief that Tierra del Fuego was part of the great, impassable continent of Terra Australis Incognita that was believed to stretch to the South Pole. However, until the early 1600s, no ships had yet sailed the entire Drake Passage or encountered Hornos Island and the Hermite Islands where Cape Horn is located.

    The Dutch East India Company held the monopoly on all Dutch trade through the only known routes to the Indies: The Straits of Magellan and the Cape of Good Hope. A previous shareholder in the company, a Belgian-born Amsterdam merchant, Isaac Le Maire and veteran Dutch sailor, Willem Cornelis Schouten financed a voyage to find another route to the Pacific Ocean and thus end the Dutch East India Company’s trade monopoly.

    On January 24, 1616 the crews crossed and named the Strait of Le Maire before rounding the horn on January 29, 1616 and calling it “Kaap Höorn” after Schouten’s town of birth.

    Well we were so lucky as we had completely clear sailing the night before and the day of our visit. I am glad I didn’t know about the possible size of the waves, or I would have been totally freaked out. We approached Cape Horn in completely calm seas and were excited that we were here, seeing it rising like a pillar above the point where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans converge. It is part of the Hermit Islands archipelago. This remote stark and treeless place is often considered the continent’s southernmost point, though the lesser-known Diego Ramirez Islands are father south. The highest point of the Cape soars from the Hornos island a massive prehistoric -looking volcanic rock dating back to the Jurassic period. We sailed right into the bay and around the area and then turned around and sailed slowly back out. The commentary from the bridge advised that this was one of the very best days to see the Horn because of the weather. Many times, the cruise ships can’t even get here.

    Lecture on Antarctica
    -Antarctica is the fifth-largest continent in terms of total area.
    -There is 800 KM between Cape Horn and Antarctica via Drake Passage.
    The continent of Antarctica makes up most of the Antarctic region. The Southern Hemisphere encompassed by the Antarctic Convergence. The Antarctic Convergence is an uneven line of latitude where cold, northward-flowing Antarctic waters meet the warmer waters of the world’s oceans. The Antarctic covers approximately 20 percent of the Southern Hemisphere.
    The ice surface grows dramatically in size from about 3 million square kilometers (1.2 million square miles) at the end of summer to about 19 million square kilometers (7.3 million square miles) by winter. Ice sheet growth mainly occurs at the coastal ice shelves, primarily the Ross Ice Shelf and the Ronne Ice Shelf. Ice shelves are floating sheets of ice that are connected to the continent. Glacial ice moves from the continent’s interior to these lower-elevation ice shelves at rates of 10 to 1,000 meters per year.
    -If all the ice covering Antarctica, Greenland, and the mountain glaciers around the world were to melt, sea level would rise about 70 meters (230 feet). The ocean would cover all the coastal cities and land area would shrink significantly.
    -There are seven sovereign states that have territorial claims in Antarctica: Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, Norway, and the United Kingdom.
    -The Antarctic Treaty puts aside the potential for conflict over sovereignty. It entered into force in 1961 and has since been acceded to by many other nations, but the provisions of the Treaty do not allow them to make their claims while it is in force. They are Brazil, Peru, Russia, South Africa and the United States.

    Some important provisions of the Treaty
    -Antarctica shall be used for peaceful purposes only.
    -Freedom of scientific investigation in Antarctica and cooperation toward that end.
    -Scientific observations and results from Antarctica shall be exchanged and made freely available.
    -The Australian Antarctic Territory covers nearly 5.9 million square kilometers; about 42% of Antarctica. Norway’s territory is next in size and the rest of the countries have smaller territories. There is still a small section not designated to any country.

    After this lecture Lee went up and made a plate of sushi at the World Café and brought it down to the Theatre.

    The next lecture was by our resident Astronomer; Aurora -Lights in the Sky.
    Our sun is 93 million miles away. But its effects extend far beyond its visible surface. Great storms on the sun send gusts of charged solar particles hurtling across space. If Earth is in the path of the particle stream, our planet’s magnetic field and atmosphere react.
    When the charged particles from the sun strike atoms and molecules in Earth’s atmosphere, they excite those atoms, causing them to light up.
    -What does it mean for an atom to be excited? Atoms consist of a central nucleus and a surrounding cloud of electrons encircling the nucleus in an orbit. When charged particles from the sun strike atoms in Earth’s atmosphere, electrons move to higher-energy orbits, further away from the nucleus. Then when an electron moves back to a lower-energy orbit, it releases a particle of light or photon.
    -What happens in an aurora is similar to what happens in the neon lights we see on many business signs. Electricity is used to excite the atoms in the neon gas within the glass tubes of a neon sign. That’s why these signs give off their brilliant colors. The aurora works on the same principle – but at a vaster scale.

    This was another fascinating lecture that added the overwhelming information we are trying to absorb about space.

    We went for dinner at Manfredi’s and sat next to and chatted with a lovely couple.
    As we were quite late eating dinner we decided to just wander around the Atrium and then headed off to bed
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  • Arriving at Ushuaia.
    Mountains at the end of the pier.Train engine trolley.Roundabout leaving city.Plaza of the National Guard.Checking in at the Parc.Tierra del Fuego National Park

    Ushuaia, Argentina. The End of The World

    14 december 2019, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We arrived at “The end of the World” this morning, the nickname for Ushuaia, Argentina. Argentina is 5000 km long and has 23 provinces. Ushuaia is the capital of the most southern province, Tierra del Fuego and the last mainland civilization before the Antarctic.

    It was 6 degrees but lucky for us it wasn’t raining or snowing. This is their summer and it doesn’t get much warmer than today. Sunrise 4:51 am and Sunset 10:05 pm The setting for this town is beautiful but they are snowbound for 9 months of the year. In port there were several ships preparing to head to the Antarctic and we also saw a group of hikers going to hike in Patagonia. Ushuaia is 300 km. from Buenos Aires and has a population of 80,000.

    We had a tour of Tierra del Fuego National park on the Argentine part of the island. Within Tierra del Fuego Province is the eco-region of the Patagonia Forest and Altos Andes, a part of the sub Antarctic forest. Established on 15 October 1960 and expanded in 1966, it was the first shoreline national park to be established in Argentina. Tierra del Fuego National Park named by the Spanish, means Land of Fire. This was because the Yámana native population kept fires going all the time to keep warm, even using coal in their canoes.

    The park contains mountains, lakes, rivers and valleys. It is bounded on the west by the Chilean border, on the north by Lago Fagnano and Roca lakes, and on the south by the Beagle Channel, which forms the shoreline. Both Chile and Argentina share the management of this park. It encompasses an area of 63,000 hectares and represents two eco regions: the Altos Andes and the Patagonian Forest. While the former eco region is made up of hills and slopes, the latter has high and jagged mountains, glacier valleys and semi-deciduous forests. The landscape of the park is the result of glacial erosion, which has created bays and beaches against a backdrop of rugged mountains and valleys. Forests of Antarctic Beech, Lenga Beech and Coihue in the lower elevations of the park are home to many animal species. An orange, golf ball size, fungus growing on the trees is called Indian bread which you can eat right off the tree, but not after it falls off the tree.

    Argentinian President Juan Peron introduced Canadian beaver to the park hoping to create a fur trade, but the fur was not good. There are no predators, so the increasing population of beavers has created a major problem because their dams and the creation of bogs kills off the trees. Both the Chilean and Argentinian governments are cooperating to get rid of the beavers but have not been successful.
    The park is the southern terminus of the Pan-American Highway that runs from Alaska to here.

    The Beagle Channel in Tierra del Fuego National Park is named after the British ship HMS Beagle, which sailed with the naturalist Charles Darwin aboard in 1833–34. The channel separates Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego from the islands of Nueva, Picton, Navarino, Hoste, Londonderry, Stewart, and other smaller islands to the south. The biggest settlement on the channel is Ushuaia in Argentina followed by Puerto Williams in Chile, two of the southernmost settlements in the world.

    Humans inhabited Tierra del Fuego as far back as 10,000 years ago. The Yámana (Yaghan people), living in the harsh environment, survived on the natural resources of the sea. They lived on its beaches and made voyages into the sea in canoes made of Lenga Beech, hunted sea lions and collected shellfish. They lived in huts made of tree branches and trunks and clothed themselves with leather made from sea lion pelts. They smeared their body with the fat and grease of these animals to waterproof their skins as they were always in the water fishing.
    The southern group of the Yaghan people (also known as Yámana), occupied what is now Ushuaia, living in continual conflict with the northern inhabitants of the island.
    Waite H. Stirling, an Anglican missionary, settled here in 1870 and started to convert Yaghan tribes.
    Trouble for the Yaghan people began in 1880, when European missionaries entered the area accompanied by gold prospectors, following rumors of large gold fields, which proved to be false. European settlers brought diseases such as measles, causing a rapid and nearly complete extinction of the Yaghan people. The Yaghan tribe was reduced to 3,000 people in 1880 and to less than 100 by the 1990s. Many of them were killed by European settlers' "shoot exercises" and deliberate poisoning of the sea lions, the staple of the Yaghan diet. Following the death of 84-year-old Emelinda Acuña (1921 – 12 October 2005), only one native speaker of the language remains, Cristina Calderón of Villa Ukika on Navarino Island, Chile who was 91 on May 2019. What can be seen of the Yaghan people and their settlements today are mainly relics in the form of piles of mussel shells overgrown with grass near the seashore.

    The Boundary Treaty of 1881 stated that Argentina would be entitled to the eastern portion, while Chile would have the western part of the Tierra del Fuego A dispute, started which almost resulted in war between the two countries in 1978. However, with the intervention of the Vatican the issue was resolved. on 2 May 1985. Under this treaty, Chile retained control of all the disputed islands and Argentina was entitled to the navigation rights and maintained their limited presence on these islands.
    Effectively, the island was divided between Argentina and Chile.
    We visited a museum/restaurant and gift shop called Alakush. Excellent display of the life in the area.
    The buses were late leaving the museum because everyone wanted to buy souvenirs and they had only limited internet and had to do most transactions by cash which left the group scrambling.

    This afternoon we had a rather pathetic bus tour around town. Don and I hopped off the bus and did our own tour of a former prison, now a museum, that was really interesting.

    Argentinian President Roca established a penal colony in 1902, on nearby Staten Island, which resulted in its development. Then followed the establishment of a prison in Ushuaia. In late 1909 and early 1910 a railway line called the Southern Fuegian Railway, or the End of the World train was established as a narrow-gauge steam railway, replacing an old wood track railway drawn by bullocks. The steam engine driven railway was built over a length of 25 km from Maipu Avenue on the waterfront into the Tierra del Fuego National Park. The line connected the prison camp with the forestry camp. The primary purpose of the railway was as a freight line to serve the prison of Ushuaia, and hence was known as the "Prison Train," As well, it was used to transport prisoners to the camps and transport the logged timber from forests. The prison was built to hold 350 prisoners but ended up holding 750 or more. Interesting that they paid the prisoners and if they actually were allowed to leave, they received that payment. The prison was closed in 1947, and the railway was finally closed in 1952, following the reduction in forest resources and an earthquake that damaged the tracks.

    40 years after it had been closed as a Prison train, it was revived, refurbished with modern amenities and claimed to be the southernmost functioning railway in the world. It now takes tourists to the Tierra del Fuego park.

    Tonight, we had a big barbecue extravaganza under the cover of the closed glass roof on the pool deck with dancing. It was billed as an Argentinian Asado ( BBQ) and Dancing under the setting sun.( It couldn't be under the stars since the sun doesn’t really set until 10:05), The music was great but unfortunately, Lee was aching badly due to her hip and we took a pass on dancing. If you know how much Lee likes to dance, you can imagine the discomfort she was in.
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  • Looking back on Puntas Arenas.
    Don about to buy a sweater with a Llama design.Starting to see some graffiti.Our bus for the morning tour..Beautiful sculpture in the middle of a veryt wide boulevardSarah Braun Municiple Cemetery.

    Punta Arenas, Chile

    15 december 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Punta Arenas, Chile. Viking Jupiter

    Calling for rain later in the afternoon. 4 degrees Celsius.
    Sunrise 5:15 AM and Sunset today will be 10:16 PM

    Founded as a penal colony by Chile in 1848 Punta Arenas’ grew by virtue of its location. It is nestled amid spectacular mountain vistas on the Eastern shores of the Brunswick Peninsula. It played host to Mariners crossing the continent by ship via the Strait of Magellan. Europeans followed searching for newly discovered gold and establishing vast swaths of sheep farms locally and throughout the surrounding region of Patagonia. Over time Punta Arenas became one of Chile’s most important ports as, before the opening of the Panama Canal, it lay on the northern most transcontinental shipping route. Today this frontier city is a rich and enticing land of Croatian, German, English, Italian and other European influences imported here with 19th century immigrants. It is a city near the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region

    We have a form that we filled out to allow us to enter into Chile every time we leave the ship. We didn’t have to show it as we passed through security this morning, but we have to have it all the time we are on land, right up until we go to the airport.

    We left the ship around 10:20 to walk to the terminal and the wind was so strong it was blowing us in all directions. We boarded our bus and headed off to an observation area called Cerro do la Cruz to see panoramic views of the city, the Strait of Magellan, the port area and the Tierra del Fuego island. The railings had personal padlocks like we have seen in many European cities, placed there by “lovers”. Don bought a Llama sweater that he took a shine to. From there we drove down to see Monumento al Overjero, (Sheepdog Monument), a memorial dedicated to the ranching wealth and rural traditions of Chile’s Magallanes region. It depicts a rural worker engaged in the harsh activities that contributed to the wealthy livestock industry of southern Chile. Designed by Chilean sculptor Gérman Montero Carvallo, it stretches for about 30 meters, at the rear of the monument is a shepherd with a horse and his faithful sheepdog. Walking in front of them is a herd of nine sheep.

    From there we walked to the Pioneer Cemetery founded in 1894 by Sara
    Braun, (1862 – 1955). A Chilean businesswoman born in Latvia, who became one of the principal employers in Patagonia. She emigrated, at the age of 12, with her family from Latvia (Russian Empire) to escape persecution, because of their Jewish heritage, and settled in Punta Arenas, in 1874.
    Sara joined her father to help administer the naval warehouse of the Portuguese shipping magnate José Nogueira, whom she married in 1887. The two worked together to build a business empire. When Nogueira died in 1893, Sara took over his leases for land in Tierra del Fuego and took control of his commercial, industrial and shipping interests.
    She along with business partners from the wealthy Menéndez family established the Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego in 1893 to engage in sheep farming. She was granted pieces of land that reached one million hectares in the area of Magallanes The Society's development of the sheep industry in Patagonia displaced the original inhabitants of those lands.

    The building of fences created obstacles for the nomadic life of the Selk'nam people and introduction of sheep herds displaced their main food source, the guanaco. Facing starvation, they began to steal livestock. The Exploitation Society asked and received permission from the Chilean government to remove the indigenous population from the area. They did this by killing off most of the indigenous population. When we toured the cemetery the monument to the Menéndez had been painted in blood red due to the riots in Chile over wealthy owners of businesses and land.

    We then walked to the other end of the 4 Hectares cemetery land to see a tribute to the “Indio Desconocido”. Everything started in 1930 when an Indian died on the Island called Diego de Almagro. The Indian was buried in this cemetery due to a donation from the administration of the same place. After twenty years, someone discovered several candles and coins around the grave. The years passed by and around 1968 there started to be letters demonstrating gratitude for being helped by the Indian. Moreover, a woman named Magdalena Vrsalovic decided to donate money, in order to help a Chilean Institution that helps the community in case of difficulties. Magdalena and other people felt that the Indian had brought them good luck. They agreed to build a monumental grave with the figure of the Indian made by Edmundo Casanova. The theory is if you rub his foot or hand it is good luck. People drop coins in a box to keep his grave kept properly.

    We saw several places where the flags were at half-mast. This was because, on December 9 2019, a Chilean Air Force Lockheed C-130 Hercules military transport aircraft crashed in the Drake Passage while enroute to a Chilean military base on King George Island in Antarctica.

    Our tour continued on to the centre of town to the Plaza Muñoz Gamero, Benjamín Muñoz Gamero was a Chilean naval officer, senator and governor of Punta Arenas We saw a memorial to explorer Ferdinand Magellan which commemorates the discovery of the Strait of Magellan on October 25, 1520. Magellan stands on a cannon at the top of the monument, with his hat in his right hand. On one side is a bronze sculpture of an indigenous Patagonian, and on the other side, a sculpture of a young woman with her arms raised. An urban myth from the city of Punta Arenas tells that a few years after the monument was inaugurated, a Spanish sailor approached it and, being impressed by the size of the foot of the Patagonian Indian, decides to rub it. Within a few years, the sailor returned with good fortune. From that moment, it is said that whoever passes through the Muñoz Gamero square and does not kiss the Patagonian toe, will not return with good fortune to the city of Punta Arenas. The foot is polished and very shiny from all the people rubbing and kissing it.

    Our guide said that we would stop here for about a half hour to allow people to browse the souvenir stalls. We decided that we would walk back to the ship on our own. We passed many colonial mansions which are now embassies and museums. It was still very windy and cold and starting to drizzle as we walked along the pier. At the port entrance there were a number of shops, so we bought 2 bottles of wine. We decided we would not take the afternoon walking tour as it sounded like we had seen much of it already. Besides, it was really cold. We enjoyed our lunch on the pool deck which was lovely and warm because the glass roof was closed.

    The ship set sail at 5:00pm. Tonight’s’ entertainer was Anne Martinez a beautiful redheaded vocalist. She had trained as an opera singer but now headlines in multiple shows in Vegas. She was a good friend of our Cruise Director Heather Clancy who was also a fabulous singer.
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  • Heading towards Amalia Glacier.
    Cruising towards the glacier through the Sarmiento Channel, a principal Patagonia channel.Glacier was not as dramatic as we had hoped for.Shows where we were.Dinner at " The Restaurant"Nice hair!First Christmas decorations as Pianist plays in the Atrium.

    Amalia Glacier, Chile

    16 december 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    Viking Jupiter. Amalia Glacier. Day at Sea
    Sunrise 5:25 and Sunset 10:10 PM. Cloudy raining 10 Degrees C.

    Nautical Term of the Day. As the Crow Flies. When lost or unsure of their position in coastal water, ships would release a caged crow. The crow would fly straight toward the nearest land, thus giving the vessel some sort of navigational fix. This is also why the tallest lookout platform on a ship came to be known as the “crow’s nest”.
    We woke later today and then realized we had a 9:30 lecture on the making of the fjords. Quick breakfast and hurried down to get good seats in the Star Theatre.
    The lecturer was Dr John Rennie Short who is Scottish and very good with a great sense of humour. He told us he was going to talk about Plate tectonics, the Ice Age and Post Pleistocene (ice age)
    He talked about the geology of the world, that the earth is made up of the molten boiling core then the mantle full of minerals, and the crust on top which has cooled and is deep in some areas and very thin in others. 5 miles in some areas and 200 miles thick in others. Heat from the mantle makes the crust break up so it is constantly moving. The crust as it is breaking up creates parts to move, called tectonic plates. In South America there are 2 major plates the Nazca and the South American Plates. They move like bumper cars and grow at the same rate as our fingernails. These are subduction plates that push against each other and one slides under and pushes the other up to produce mountains hence the Patagonian Mountains. Volcanoes are eruptions of the mantle as the plates move. The ice Age was 2.5 million years ago. The ice sheets started to form and got thicker. During the Post Pleistocene period the ice sheets shifted, they opened up and created deep V-shaped fissures. Glaciers entered these V-shaped valleys and carved out, U-shaped valleys and filled it with water quite often creating hanging valleys and hanging rivers. When the ice age stopped and the glaciers started to recede and melt, the sea levels rose and rushed into the U-shaped valleys. The result is the creation of Fjords. The walls of the valleys are precipitous with rock outcrops and the bottom of the valleys are now very deep-water channels. Dr. Short called them “drowned” u shaped valleys.

    We decided to get lunch at the World Café and took it to the pool deck so we could watch the land as we cruised along. At 1:30 we started to see the Amalia Glacier and Lee went out on deck to get some photos. It was still drizzling but not too bad. She came back in to have lunch by the window and waited until the ship turned around the corner to enter the channel towards the Glacier. It took about an hour to get close and then Dr. Richard Bates gave a running commentary from the bridge about glaciers. We were all out on deck to watch as we slowly moved forward. He said that they are always on the move pushing the base under it in front like a bulldozer. He said that where the glacier was coming down from the mountain it is now calving into the water and the debris that it is bringing down from the mountains is dumping into the water. Cruising past the Amalia Glacier, part of Bernardo O’Higgins national Park, you cannot help but marvel at the power of nature. This massive Glacier skirts the northern rise of the recluse volcano located directly behind it, slowly eroding the hulking mound’s slopes. Amalia’s ice flow journeyed here millennia ago from the heights of the Andes mountains – a fractional segment of one of the world’s largest continuous ice fields, the southern Patagonian ice field. This sheet of ice covered the entirety of southern Chile during the Ice Age. We had hoped to see some forms of sea life but nothing at all. A bit anti climatic but still very interesting. We heard from several people that you see much more spectacular glaciers on the Alaska cruises and see a lot more calving as well.

    We spent part of the afternoon in the fitness room and spa which have very extensive facilities. In addition to the usual stem and sauna rooms, hot and cold tubs and swimming pool, they even have a snow room where you can lie on the snow to cool down

    We had dinner in The Restaurant Don had a mushroom Risotto and Lee had a Norwegian Salmon and Lump Crab Gratin. We were a bit late leaving the restaurant but were able to see the last part of the entertainment, the assistant cruise director, Corinne Bach who was a very accomplished Opera singer, singing Jazz, Broadway Musicals, Pop, and music from “Popera”.
    As we headed out of the theatre and came into the atrium, we looked down to the 2nd floor and saw that the first Christmas decorations were out, including a display of gingerbread houses made by the kitchen.
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  • Showing where we are.
    On the pool deck,making the best of a dreary dayMore cheerful Gingerbread houses.

    Puerto Aguirre, Chile. Cruise Fjords

    17 december 2019, Chili ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Scenic Cruising in the Chilean Fjords.

    Second day in a row of cruising at sea. Off to a bit of a late start (getting into a bad habit) so grabbed some muffins and a banana and headed for our 9:30 lecture by Dr. Richard Bates, on the oceans and the effect they have on climate. Well let’s just say that it’s very complicated. He outlined the global wind directions and the effect that they had on climates all around the world. Another factor is ocean currents, and the effect that they have, as well as circulation of sea water from the bottom to the top, and how that changed ocean temperatures which led to changes in the direction of the trade winds. Cold water at the bottom of the ocean can take upwards of 1000 years to rise to the surface and begin to effect changes. He also pointed out that 50 million years ago North and South America began to separate from the Pangea, which led to changes in ocean levels and ocean currents and thus enormous climate change.
    And on a larger scale, about ten million years ago, due to tectonic plate movement, Antarctica began separating from South America and 5 million years ago Central America began to form.
    All of these changes affect global temperatures which can cause melting of glaciers. 10 % of the earth’s surface is covered by glaciers and 85% of that is in Antarctica. Glaciers store 75% of the earth's fresh water which, when they melt, changes the salinity of the oceans which change currents which change climates etc., etc. It gives me a headache!
    -Oh, and did I mention that the subduction of one plate under another plate creates heat which changes land and ocean temperatures and causes the creation of mountains which on their own, cause changes in local, if not continental climates. My headache is getting worse. Thank goodness he was such a good lecturer.

    Last night was a bit bumpy and we are now sailing outside the fjord area but should soon be cutting back into the fiords which will result in calmer seas. It is a rather miserable day today. The temperature is about 12°C, waves approximately 12 to 15 feet high, pouring rain and visibility of only several hundred yards because of the rain and the fog. What a shame as this is supposed to be the most awesome part of the cruise for scenery.

    In the early afternoon, we realized that we would probably come close to Gary and Karina on their sailboat. They were supposed to be sailing southward past us as we were sailing northward to where they had just left. After many e-mails and text messages back and forth, we were finally able to contact them by cell phone using WhatsApp and had a really fun 15 to 20-minute conversation with them. As it turns out they were docked in Puerto Aguirre and our ship was passing within five nautical miles of them. Had the weather and other conditions been more appropriate Gary said that he would have sailed out to see the ship. It was great to know that they were safe and sound, they narrowly avoided yet another, in their seemingly endless, disasters. As they docked at their berth in high winds the throttle cable broke. All is well notwithstanding cold and rainy conditions. They are hunkered down with winds of about 30k and sideways rain but are happy and feeling upbeat. Really? Apparently, by Gary’s description, Karina has everything she owns on. He said the door/hatch is still open but said if it gets cold, they can shut the door and he might even turn on the heat!!
    They are hoping to receive the necessary parts to fix the throttle cable shortly.

    The chef and 40 people in his department have been working for over a month to make a large gingerbread village which is now on display in the main social area, the Atruim, on deck one.

    We sent the following e-mail to Lilah and Callie.
    Hi girls,
    The chef and 40 helpers made these gingerbread houses and put them out two days ago. The windows are even made from clear candy.
    Also, when you walk to school the next time think about the length of our ship. It is almost as far as from Birch street to Cedar street. Almost two blocks!
    Lots of love
    Grampa

    One of the options for dining tonight was a special fish and chips dinner on the patio deck which turned out to be pretty good. After that we went to the show, but Don was tired and left early. Tomorrow, we are supposed to go on a 7-hour tour when we land at Puerto Montt, including a catamaran tour around Lake Emerald. Hope it clears up.
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