Patagonia & Antartica 2017

27 days starting in Santiago and travelling to Pucon, Bariloche, Puerto Varas, Chiloe Island, Punta Arenas, Torres del Paine National Park and El Calfate. Then 24 days starting in Ushuaia and sailing to Falkland Islands, South Georgia and Antarctica. Read more

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Day 27
Monday, November 20, 2017 at 5:30 AM
Altitude: 201 m
Argentina El Calafate -50.337969, -72.264798250°20’17” S 72°15’53” W
Ecocamp to El Calafate
November 20, 2017 in Argentina
We were rewarded for our early departure (5am) to see a great sunrise and condors feeding on a dead sheep.
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Day 28
Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 3:57 PM
Altitude: 217 m
Argentina Departamento de Lago Argentino -50.564826, -72.86579250°33’53” S 72°51’57” W
Estancia Nibepo Aike
November 21, 2017 in Argentina
We enjoyed our night at Estancia (farm) Nibepo Aike. In the morning, we were gently persuaded to do a horse ride and then had time for a 8km walk before departing. The orphan lamb Denise is feeding lost its mother to a Puma.Read more
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Day 29
Wednesday, November 22, 2017 at 3:58 PM
Altitude: 201 m
Argentina El Calafate -50.337969, -72.264798250°20’17” S 72°15’53” W
El Calafate
November 22, 2017 in Argentina
Photos 1 to 3 - our hotel and views. Photo 4 is in main street outside the butcher (of course).
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Day 30
Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 3:58 AM
Altitude: 472 m
Argentina Departamento de Lago Argentino -50.4967297, -73.137661250°29’48” S 73°8’16” W
Perito Moreno Glacier
November 23, 2017 in Argentina
Photos of our day trip out to the Perito Moreno Glacier.
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Day 31
Friday, November 24, 2017 at 9:58 AM
Altitude: 170 m
Argentina Departamento de Lago Argentino -50.2331136, -72.614131750°13’59” S 72°36’51” W
Rios de Hielo Glacier
November 24, 2017 in Argentina
Photos of our boat trip on Argentino Lake to Rios de Hielo Glacier.
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Day 33
Sunday, November 26, 2017 at 3:59 PM
Altitude: 69 m
Argentina Base Naval Ushuaia -54.8019121, -68.302951154°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Ushuaia
November 26, 2017 in Argentina
Photo 1 is our plane arriving at El Calafate to fly to Ushuaia. Photos 2 to 4 were taken last night and Photos 5 to 8 are today...no explanation needed!
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Day 34
Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:59 PM
Altitude: 69 m
Argentina Base Naval Ushuaia -54.8019121, -68.302951154°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Ushuaia
November 27, 2017 in Argentina
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Day 36
Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 3:59 AM
Altitude: 69 m
Argentina Base Naval Ushuaia -54.8019121, -68.302951154°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Ushuaia
November 29, 2017 in Argentina
Murray finally got to photograph a woodpecker in the National Park this morning and this evening as we headed back to our hotel after dinner, there was a beautiful rainbow over the Drake Passage where we sail out tomorrow. Calm seas we hope!!Read more
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Day 37
Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 2:25 PM
Altitude: 15 m
Argentina Ushuaia -54.8074166, -68.304829154°48’27” S 68°18’17” W
Our ship awaits us
November 30, 2017 in Argentina
Amost time to board.
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Day 37
Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 7:12 PM
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -51.796253, -59.52361351°47’47” S 59°31’25” W
Ushuaia to Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas)
November 30, 2017, South Atlantic Ocean
On 30th November, we departed Ushuaia around 6pm on a beautiful clear but breezy evening.
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Day 38
Friday, December 1, 2017 at 9:35 AM
Altitude: 69 m
Argentina Base Naval Ushuaia -54.8019121, -68.302951154°48’7” S 68°18’11” W
Ushuaia to Falkland Island
December 1, 2017 in Argentina
The next day at sea we started to gain our sea legs, organised our room and gear, attended briefings and enjoyed watching the birdlife accompaning us including Albatross and Petrels. At the end of the day we saw a beautiful sunset.Read more
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Day 39
Saturday, December 2, 2017 at 8:00 AM
Altitude: 5 m
Falkland Islands -52.036628453405, -58.90448196204452°2’12” S 58°54’16” W
West Point Island, Falkland
December 2, 2017 in Falkland Islands
It was time to get ready for our first disembarkation at West Point Island which has been owned by the Napier family since 1959.

We enjoyed watching the strangest community of neighbours - Black-browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguin. You may wonder why they nest so close together. The penguins benefit from the long necks of the sky-pointing albatrosses if predators, such as caracaras, fly over. But do the albatrosses gain anything from their smaller distant cousins? Judging from the frequent disputes between them, nothing at all! We believe that the albatross regard the Rockhopper as noisy, useless neighbours! They can’t even fly!

On the island were also Ashy-Headed Geese, Falkland Flightless Steamerduck and a pair of Greater Kelp Geese.Read more
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Day 39
Saturday, December 2, 2017 at 1:00 PM
Altitude: 182 m
Falkland Islands Carcass Island -51.2804258, -60.563102651°16’50” S 60°33’47” W
Carcass Island
December 2, 2017 in Falkland Islands
Named after HMS Carcass which visited in the late 18th century, Carcass Island is located in the northwest of the Falklands archipelago.

The terrain is varied with rocky ridges, steep cliffs, open plains, white sand beaches and pretty coves. The highest point is Mount Byng at 213m (700 feet). Carcass Island is a carefully managed farm with sheep and cattle.

It is an important bird area with many ground nesting birds including the endemic Cobbs’s Wren and songbirds such as the Tussac bird, Ground Tyrant, Pipit, Thrush, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Grass Wren and the Flightless Steamer Duck who is a permanent Falkland resident.

Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins breed on the Island and there are many Striated Caracaras.Read more
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Day 40
Sunday, December 3, 2017 at 8:30 AM
Altitude: 38 m
Falkland Islands Lookout Rocks -51.6977129, -57.851662751°41’52” S 57°51’6” W
Port Stanley and Gypsy Cove
December 3, 2017 in Falkland Islands
Stanley, formerly known as Port Stanley, is the capital of the Falkland Islands. It was founded in 1843, and today is home to more than 2,115 people. Different architectural styles characterise Stanley along with features of the British heritage and there are streets of brightly painted houses. By the waterfront, a whalebone arch stands near the entrance of Christ Church Cathedral, which was built in the late 1800s. Memorials also feature along the seafront, the Battle of the Falklands, World War II, the 1982 conflict and a special monument for the Royal Marines.

Gypsy Cove is 6.5 km from Stanley and is part of the Cape Pembroke peninsula which is a National Nature Reserve. The small bay with its white sand beach is sheltered from prevailing winds. Magellanic penguins, also known as Jackass because of their braying sounds, breed here, nesting underground in burrows. We also saw black-crowned night-herons.

Before departing the crew did "man overboard" training.Read more
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Day 41
Monday, December 4, 2017 at 4:15 AM
Altitude: 1,742 m
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands -54.4138333, -36.582716554°24’50” S 36°34’58” W
Falkland Island to South Georgia Island
December 4, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
Leaving the Falkland Islands, we chart a southeast course bound for the island of South Georgia. These days at sea were never dull. Much of our time is spent scanning the horizon in search of whales and other marine mammals as well as seabirds that join us in the Southern Ocean. Our polar experts continue to fill our minds with heroic stories of some of the earliest Antarctic explorers including the epic story of Sir Ernest Shackleton and the HMS Endurance expedition.

As we near South Georgia, and cross the Antarctic Convergence, there is a dramatic drop in temperature. The Antarctic Convergence is a meeting of cold polar water flowing north and warmer equatorial water moving in the opposite direction. This mixing pushes nutrient rich waters to the surface attracting a variety of seabirds, whales and other species.Read more
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Day 43
Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:00 AM
Altitude: Sea level
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands Post Rock -54.0087623, -37.977367854°0’32” S 37°58’39” W
Elsehul, South Georgia Islands
December 6, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
After breakfast, we disembarked on zodiacs at Elsehul which is one of the islands main breeding grounds for Fur and Elephant Seals.

Macaroni and King Penguins, Grey-headed Albatross, South Georgian Shag, Giant Petrels and Pale-faced Sheathbill also nest here.Read more
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Day 43
Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 3:00 PM
Altitude: 1,742 m
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands -54.4138333, -36.582716554°24’50” S 36°34’58” W
Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island
December 6, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
It was a cold and wet day when we disembarked. Salisbury Plain lies between the mouths of Grace and Lucas glaciers.

It is best known as the breeding site for as many as 60,000 King Penguins and its beach was also covered with many Southern Elephant seals and Antarctic Fur Seals. We also saw some South Georgia Pintail.Read more
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Day 44
Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 8:00 AM
Altitude: 2,133 m
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands -54.429579, -36.58790954°25’46” S 36°35’16” W
Gold Harbour, South Georgia Island
December 7, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
It was a beautiful morning at Gold Harbour - so called because the sun's rays make the cliffs yellow with their light in the morning and evening. The area is a breeding ground for penguins include King Penguins and Gentoo Penguins, and Southern Elephant Seals also breed here, especially at the west end of the beach, where a glacial stream flows. Light-mantled Albatrosses also breed here.Read more
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Day 44
Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 3:00 PM
Altitude: 10 m
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands Block Lake -54.1594114, -36.712886154°9’34” S 36°42’46” W
Stromness, South Georgia Island
December 7, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
Stromness is a former whaling station and was the destination of Ernest Shackleton's rescue journey in 1916.

We arrived in the afternoon and it was very windy, cold with sleet. We chose to stay in the warmth of the ship. Most went a shore, but many wished they had also stayed on board.Read more
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Day 45
Friday, December 8, 2017 at 8:00 AM
Altitude: 6 m
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands King Edward Cove -54.281149, -36.508738554°16’52” S 36°30’31” W
Grytviken, South Georgia
December 8, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
Grytviken means ‘pot cove’ in Norwegian, named for trypots left over from sealing days that were found there. Larsen established the site in 1904; the first permanent settlement on South Georgia. The original prefabricated buildings and equipment arrived on board the Louise, the wreck that lies on the shorelines below the cemetery. The station originally consisted of three buildings, a slipway and three blubber cookers. It expanded over the years to incorporate meat and bone cookers, laboratories, workshops, storehouses, a church and even a cinema. It remained one of the largest stations, second only to that at Leith Harbour, and was also the only one to run continuously from its establishment in 1904 to the end of whaling on South Georgia in 1964.

We visited the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton and there is an excellent museum at Grytviken.

This was our first day walking in deep snow which can be challenging with aggressive fur seals around.Read more
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Day 45
Friday, December 8, 2017 at 3:30 PM
Altitude: Sea level
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands Breakwater Rocks -54.1993186, -36.591073454°11’58” S 36°35’28” W
Jason Harbour, South Georgia
December 8, 2017 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
Jason Harbour is a bay 1.6 km wide, lying west of Allen Bay in the north side of Cumberland West Bay, South Georgia.

Our first obstacle was getting passed the aggressive Fur Seals on the beach and on the flat land behind. We did a hike up a hill behind the bay which gave us great views.Read more
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Day 45
Friday, December 8, 2017 at 4:15 PM
Altitude: 464 m
Antarctica White Company, The -61.1125817, -55.140223361°6’45” S 55°8’25” W
South Georgia to Elephant Island
December 8, 2017 in Antarctica
We sighted our first iceberg.
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Day 47
Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 4:00 PM
Altitude: 464 m
Antarctica White Company, The -61.1125817, -55.140223361°6’45” S 55°8’25” W
Point Wild, Elephant Island
December 10, 2017 in Antarctica
When the mist lifted, we got a glimpse of the dark cliffs of Point Wild at Elephant Island. Shackleton and his men were encamped here for many months, having lost HMS Endurance in the thick sea ice, far to the south in the Weddell Sea in 1915.

From the tiny beach at Point Wild, Shackleton and six companions set off on the rescue mission to South Georgia, aboard the tiny lifeboat, James Caird. To this day, the epic ocean crossing is considered one of the greatest in history.Read more
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Day 47
Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 11:00 PM
Altitude: 464 m
Antarctica White Company, The -61.1125817, -55.140223361°6’45” S 55°8’25” W
Cape Lookout, Elephant Island
December 10, 2017 in Antarctica
We did a zodiac cruise which was very cold and wet. Highlight was seeing a Leopard Seal take a Penguin.
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Day 48
Monday, December 11, 2017 at 4:30 PM
Altitude: Sea level
Antarctica Antarctic Sound -63.333333, -56.749999963°19’60” S 56°44’60” W
Hope Bay, Antarctic Sound
December 11, 2017 in Antarctica
It was too windy for disembarkment at Hope Bay. Instead we watched passing killer whales as we sailed to Paulet Island.

The scenery was breathtaking from the colossal icebergs and the seemingly endless Antarctic ice sheet. There were Penguins and Seals on the icebergs.Read more
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