• Meaghan's Travels

Central America 2017

A 52-day adventure by Meaghan's Travels Read more
  • By the water

    February 1, 2017 in Nicaragua ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Nothing much to report. Chill day by the lake after a nice slept in!

    Big travel day tomorrow to Costa Rica - 7am till 5pm!

  • Life on the road

    February 2, 2017 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
  • Long day travelling

    February 2, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    6.15am breakfast and 7am departure.

    Not a morning person.

    Better lake crossing as boat not crowded beyond the safety limit like last time!

    Border crossing into Costa Rica and we are told to keep together, watch our things carefully and when we are waiting form a circle with our bags in the middle.

    The crossing takes a while - someone had a eastern european passport which delayed us at the Nicaraguan border then a few people didn't have proof of forward travel from Costa Rica which delayed us at the Costa Rica border.

    Its so humid we are all drenched as we have to carry our bags through both border checkpoints.

    Next its a stop at a mall for lunch - the guide tells us that the supermarket does a very good buffet and so everyone rushes to Burgar King!

    Prices are high here compared to the rest of Central America except Belize which also has high prices.

    The currency is crazy at 525 costa rican to the american dollar so things cost 1000s and you have a wad of money.

    Punctured tyre on the way but finally got to Monteverde high in the mountains where its cold and windy at night for a change!! Cute town but back on the tourist trail now.

    Our hotel looks like a ski chalet and the rooms are very cosy with hot showers!!

    We go into town for dinner and I have a very expensive chicken tarrogon dish.
    Read more

  • The zombie wasp!

    February 3, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Big day today - nature walk in the morning and in the evening.

    Two of the best walks I have ever done and the guides were essential so that the wildlife was found.

    All the land in Monteverde is privately owned and instead of traditional land uses involving deforestation landowners have turned to tourism.

    The morning walk was in Monteverde's cloud forest.

    The quetzal bird is quite rare and is Guatemala's national bird and was sacred to the Maya and Aztec so we were lucky to see one.

    The wasp becomes a zombie when it eats a certain fungus. The fungus eats the wasp from the inside and also sprouts tentacles out of the wasp. Eventually the fungus controls the wasp's brain and it makes the wasp fly around the rainforest so the fungus spore is spread across the forest. Gross!

    We also saw lots of beautiful hummingbirds. Besides seeing them in the forest they also have alot of feeders with sweet liquid in them and the hummingbirds buzz around your head. Amazing.

    Then back to town - lots of crappy and expensive souvenir shops. Had a nice lunch in a tree house though.

    The night walk was great - we saw a tarantula, sleeping birds, snakes, lizards, a sloth and various insects.

    So tired had bread and butter for dinner in my hotel room!
    Read more

  • Zip lining!

    February 4, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Fantastic!

    Highest and longest zip line cable in Latin America and you get to do the superman move!

    The pre part of the activity was poorly organised - we ended up standing around in our equipment for nearly two hours and the safety instructions were inadequate. The instructor's English was hard to understand and we couldn't hear him anyway.

    So anyway another activity probably not covered by insurance!

    Its all set in a beautiful forest.

    Then no time for lunch in town thanks to inefficiency of zip line company so, tired and starving, we set off on a long travel trip to next destination - Fortuna.

    We stop at a cafe for a late lunch of pure slop - not sure how some of these places get on the hit list. I opt for the lunch of champions - pringles and weird Costa Rican chocolate milk!

    Then its a stumble down a grassy rocky hill with our luggage to a boat. Lovely trip even though it started raining across Lake Arenal. Guide didn’t tell us it could be freezing - I was ok but some of the group were in short shorts and thongs!

    Get to town and check into my damp and dingy hotel room then a briefing on the expensive tours. Most of us are not interested then a ghastly dinner in a restaurant recommended by our guide. I had grilled chicken which I couldn't cut with my knife!

    Evening saved by some quality gelato!

    Photos of countryside and a wind farm.
    Read more

  • Gelato-a bargain at 2 million colones!

    February 5, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We were told that the weather is usually sunny with a light shower in the afternoon. It poured all day.

    The town of Fortuna is overlooked by Costa Rica's most active volcano - Arenal. We saw nothing of it! See photo of town overlooked by the clouded volcano! Its like when I went to Egypt and Tutankhamun's tomb was closed.

    So glad I wasn't hiking! Apparently the Kadashians were in town a few days ago and stayed at one of the hotels which have some hot springs. We could have gone to those hot springs for $100US!

    Slept in and took my time in the morning - so nice not to have anywhere to be. Then wandered around town in my plastic poncho. Had a great smoothie and quaedesia (see photo) for breakfast/lunch in the Lava Cafe. The better shops were closed as it was Sunday. Go back to hotel to lay on bed with air conditioning on full blast and watch CNN. When I can't listen to any more about Trump I stagger up to continue aimlessly walking around. Gelato helps.

    Then quite a good dinner at a soda which is the name for local cafes - this soda is full of tourists - the locals clearly having run for cover!

    More gelato then TV time. There is one channel that has movies in the original language so I watch Ted 2 and We're the Millers. Ripper night!
    Read more

  • Seriously was there a volcano?

    February 6, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Still no sign of the volcano the next day. Guess I will have to watch the Kadashians.

    We all put in $10US to hire a van so we can avoid catching a public bus. The tour company states that it is all 'part of the adventure' - yeah right. Done it enough times in my lifetime to be over it. In these countries it just increases the risk of theft and doubles your travel time.

    Uneventful aside from the crappy food stop in an over priced tourist shop with overpriced junk food. Where's my gelato to make me feel better?

    Now in the capital San Jose. A drive through city if ever I saw one. I even contemplated catching a bus to get out of here to the next place on the itinerary!

    At least I had a very nice pasta for dinner at one of the new trendy restaurants which are opening up in the neighborhood near the hotel.

    Was craving some orange juice when I got back to the hotel but the concierge told me not to go one way and that if I went the other way not to take much money and that it should be ok but it was at my risk. So no orange juice for me!

    Photos of the weird decor in the restaurant!
    Read more

  • The weirdest shopping mall

    February 7, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Was excited at the prospect of a mall to fill in time given I have another night here.

    If you need 90s fashion, plastic figurines, stuffed animals, bongs, a tattoo palour or sex shops then this is the mall for you! And all set in an ugly building with low ceilings and poor lighting.

    And I should mention the awful food court - I was too scared to eat anything from there.

    I did get a manicure which was nice but decided against a pedicure when I saw the spa bath.

    Walked around one of the more residential areas in the afternoon but this city is just ugly, dirty and dreary.
    Read more

  • Avoid this city

    February 7, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Just in case you thought I was exaggerating!

    The train tracks run right through the city and the horn is constantly on.
    Imagine walking out your front door straight onto the tracks!

    And I love the park which had the stone seats facing the road! I liked the view of the telephones - presumably there so you can call for help.Read more

  • Beach beach beach!

    February 8, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I think I paid $8 for a chocolate milkshake from Starbucks! Desperation made me go there - overcome by this ugly city!

    Ended up going back to the same restaurant for dinner which is in the one street in the city that has trendy restaurants. Couldn't do the chicken and rice so pasta it was.

    Sat right by the window and watched the trains go by less than two metres away! I have a great video of it but at the time of writing this travel app can only upload photos.

    Great atmosphere in the restaurant and it was playing Jack Johnson so very chill.

    Early departure for the carribean coast (Puerto Viejo). Our new guide rightly guessed that we all want out of dodge!

    Local bus ride of about 4 and half hours - no air conditioning and stinking hot. We walked to our hotel and were dripping wet. Rooms not ready so I set off to have a look around town. So humid had to buy an extremely over priced dress - my high standards were a dress that fitted! And then I walked out of the shop in the dress!

    Then I spotted a gelato bar - so refreshing chocolate milkshake it was!

    More walking then back to the hotel to check into my room which was as hot as hell. Took off my dripping clothes had a cold shower then fell asleep for abit.
    Back out to face the heat so had to get some more gelato to cope!

    Group meeting at 7pm to discuss tours. The guide was pushing a day tour that only the new people to the group were interested in as the rest of us have already done similiar things.

    So it might be a visit to the jaguar rescue centre which has no jaguars but does have some sloths and monkeys but its a long walk or I hire a bike. Or maybe I will have a surfing lesson!

    The guide took the group to a soda but it was so unappealing some of us left and went more upmarket. Found a great place which had this awesome trio playing and singing and I ended up having the best fajitas of the trip. Had a great night and the place was right opposite the beach so there was a nice breeze.

    We have been told not to carry our passport or much money and not to venture anywhere on our own (walking around town during the day is ok). Also the place is full of dope - you can smell it everywhere even though its illegal.
    Read more

  • The world's smallest pasta!!

    February 9, 2017 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I am STARVING so imagine my horror when the attached was delivered! Good god serve a decent size!

    Pottered around in the morning doing washing and going to the post office.

    So hot in my sauna room that had to have a cold shower after my washing chores. Yes a freezing cold shower is a blessing!

    Have been carrying around some postcards for four countries. In Granada they had run out of stamps!
    Our dopey tour guide couldn't manage to locate an open post office. In Guatemala we were told the post offices were closed and that there was nothing to replace them!! Apparently private contractors are going to do it - eventually. I didn't have the strength to question further.

    Then I started looking for some electric bikes I saw the other day. Couldn't find them, hot and time marching on so had a smoothie which is my answer to everything and hired a car which took care of the heat issue and safety as I was by myself. Most of the new tour members were on a day trip and the old members that are left are horrid!

    The whole process to rent the car took an hour and a half - carribean time which is slower that central american time! Missed the jaguar rescue centre tour so drove up and down the coast then settled into an upmarket hotel for a few hours on the beach alternating between a lounge chair and a hammock. Super until the tiny pasta came! So yes I had another smoothie!

    Dropped car off and then had some gelato as no day is complete without gelato and walked along the beach settling into a nice spot right on the beach for an early chicken and fries dinner. Very relaxing. Lots of offers to purchase substances! One guy even had his kids with him!

    Then yes - gelato again! I am on a first name basis with the owner of the shop!

    Tedious group meeting at 7pm then clicky old members of group met up for dinner with other clicky members of group who are no longer on the tour but are following us! Its like high school! Anyway I have avoided the clicky group most of the tour and will continue to do so. The new members of the group are really good though.

    Early night as didn't sleep much last night in my sauna room. Next place we have been told has air conditioning. Yay!
    Read more

  • How many people can you fit in a boat!

    February 10, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Set off in the pouring rain for Panama.
    We have been told that alot of places in Panama don't accept credit cards and if they do expect up to a 15% add on.

    Border crossing was a slow process. Sometimes you can lose the will to go on! Alot of queuing in the heat and dragging your bags up and down rocky hills for this one.

    Then a boat to Bocas del Toro. This ride would not pass any safety standard! Really overloaded with people and baggage and they didn't have enough life jackets. So the guide said they had to get more before we could set off.

    Then the boat went way too fast for the conditions so every time the boat went over a wave it was like hitting cement.

    After hotel checkin we got on a public bus and went to Starfish Beach on the other side of the island. Interesting fact about starfish is that if you take them out of the water even for a second they die.

    The beach was gorgeous - lovely blue clear water which was nice and warm, blue skies and palm trees.
    My new thing is palm trees - love them and taking lots of photos of them.

    Had the funniest lunch with the Panamanian version of Manuel! Everyone basically had combinations of fish chicken rice salad fries and plantains with different sauces.
    Over 10 of us so a bit of a memory challenge!
    Then he said he would write it all down so the pen and pad came out and he started to make varoius marks.
    Later the guide told us that he can't read or write but thinks that a proper waiter should write things down so he pretends!

    Then when the meals came out it was chaos - sometimes he would say it was chicken when it was fish and the combinations were all over the place.
    At one stage he was wandering around with cokes saying he didn't know who they were for and put them on the table still chatting away.
    He was so charming and off beat - highlight of the day!

    In the end we said to just put the meals on the table and that we would sort it out!

    I would definitely go back! We saw him in town the next day and he gave us a very cheerful hello.

    There were lots of little cafes and bars along the beach some with really loud music so we found the quietest spot we could.

    So a great afternoon. Then avoiding the group dinner like I do most nights another like minded tour member (who has said she will never travel in a group again!) and I go to a great restaurant right on the water where every thing is home made. And it had great music! Had a very good spaghetti bolognese and a Chilean glass of red.

    Lovely day!

    Last photo is the border between Costa Rica and Panama. Most of the borders have car wash like contraptions which spray trucks.
    Read more

  • Islands and more islands!

    February 11, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Fabulous day today!

    Some snorkeling to see starfish and the colourful reef.
    Then a stop in Dolphin Bay to watch for - yes correct dolphins. We only saw two.
    Then abit of a look at the various islands and finally over to a small island with our bring your own lunch.

    The guide told us to go to the supermarket and put together our lunch for our island chill out. Couldn't find anything I would want to eat so ended up with white bread rolls and nutella! The tomatoes were rotten and the avocados rock hard. And the processed meat was just plain scary!

    The best part of the island was very crowded so we walked around trying to find a place that wasn't packed. Our tour guide was clueless even though he had been to the very small island dozens of times. And of course you can't set up under a coconut tree and they were everywhere! We ended up in an awful spot where you couldn't really swim for fear of being hit by a floating tree branch!

    Eventually the guide went on a scout and found a proper place so we moved camp and then I just stayed in the water most of the time. Just so nice with the palm trees and blue water. If you are out of the water for 5 minutes you get so hot you have to go back in.

    On the boat ride back we went sloth spotting and amazingly saw a really active one eating lots of leaves. Normally they are only active at night. We were able to get really close and stare at his face. They are gorgeous creatures and move very slowly due to the lack of protein in their diet.

    Then back to town on the speed boat - central american style! Great ride as you can look at the mangrove swamps and the isolated houses. Some are shacks and others are mansions owned by retired expats. If you migrate there you don't have to pay taxes for 20 years but you have to invest some money which most people do by building houses.

    Dinner at another nice restuarant on the water. It had some things on the menu which we couldn't order due to where we were sitting!! Random!

    Then finished off the day with some gelato!
    Read more

  • In the trees!

    February 12, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This country has been a pleasant surprise. Today we set off for Boquete and will be staying in Boquete Tree Trek Mountain Resort about 7km out of town.

    But not before I have two banana smoothies for breakfast! I think I have a smoothie problem!

    Lovely scenery on the way. We stop in town for abit to book tours, go to the supermarket and of course have another smoothie.

    Bit of a rough ride up to the resort on a huge open jeep.

    And then heaven greets us. Resort is gorgeous right up in the cloud forest and we are in lovely little cabins. Restaurant has really good food, a fireplace and serves smoothies! What more could I ask for!

    We stopped at a view point to have a look at a dam and the wire fence was so high this was the only photo you could get!
    Read more

  • A remarkable coffee plantation

    February 13, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I am going to tell you a story about Mr Tito and his coffee plantation.

    30 years ago Mr Tito, even though he knew nothing about coffee, decided to stop studying and grow coffee. Everyone told him he would fail.

    He found some land which had been used for grazing prepared it and threw down about 30 varieties of coffee tree seeds. About eight took.

    The machines needed for processing the coffee beans are expensive some costing between $80,000 and $200,000.

    So Mr Tito made his own machines from spare car parts, scraps from construction sites and bits and pieces! His processing machine took two years to make and ten years to perfect.

    The coffee is organic and no pesticides are used. As the coffee bean is toxic to the local birds fruit trees are planted to draw the birds in and they also eat any worms and insects on the coffee trees.

    His coffee is world renown and has won best coffee in the world eight times! The plantation doesn't produce huge amounts and what is made is shipped as green beans to certain individual coffee houses in the States and Canada.

    One of the most fasinating tours I have ever done. Worth coming to Panama just for this!

    Photos

    Coffee beans which we watched being roasted. Light which the American market like medium for the French and dark for the Italians! Even though I am not a coffee drinker I tried all three. The dark was way too full on!
    Interesting fact - a light roast has less flavour but more caffeine - 90% to 100%. The dark roast which has a very deep flavour only has about 40% caffeine.
    The third one shows his hand crafted machine that can cost up to $200,00 to buy.
    The fourth shows three home made roasting machines.
    The large blue one is made from the tub from a washing machine! He charges other local producers a small fee for them to roast their beans.
    Lovely coffee trees. The berries are sweet and the beans are covered in a slimy substance.

    And finally Mr Tito who drinks 15 cups of coffee a day! Bravo Mr Tito.
    Read more

  • A day of rest

    February 14, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Chill day. Got up at lunchtime after abit of internet time. Lunch then a nap!

    Went for a walk in the afternoon - so peaceful and the light was lovely.

    Ordered dinner for 7.45pm and at 8.35pm still waiting! Chased up my glass of red and they said they had run out of glasses! I offered to wash one myself!

    Might fall asleep at the restaurant table!

    The dog photo is for you Luca - he came up in the jeep with us and his name is Scooter.
    Read more

  • Alone In the jungle

    February 14, 2017 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    These photos are from my waterfall hike with the group. The last waterfall was a very steep grade 5 hike in mud which I could have done but too slowly for the group so I headed back down the trail by myself.

    So the photos are the result of me being left alone in the jungle with my phone!
    Read more

  • Off to the Pacific Ocean!

    February 15, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Santa Catalina to be precise. And our rooms have kitchens but no bathrooms.

    Long drive south. Dozed most of the way. Getting hot again now so out will come my over priced dress. I need to get the wear out of it as I have just seen the Australian conversion on my visa statement.

    I might have to live in it when I get back to Sydney.

    Some of the group are making dinner tonight for something different.

    Our cabanas are very cute - all in different colours. Its like being in a dolls house. Mine is orange.

    The beach is ok - more for surfers. Black sand. Its about a 5 minute walk from the hotel which is in the middle of no where.

    I have a quick dip but the waves are too much hard work and I want to rest so find a place with a view and settle in. Fries and a smoothie it is!

    Tomorrow we are going on a full day tour which is good otherwise I might go abit stir crazy here!

    No internet no tv no book air condiitioning that doesn't work properly and in the middle of no where without a bathroom. Not happy.
    Read more

  • Panama Pacific style

    February 16, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Lovely day today - day tour with snorkeling and beaches.

    Its beginning to feel like this is what I do - get up, get on a boat, tear around the ocean checking out islands and snorkeling, have chicken and rice for lunch then a swim and a rest on a few island beaches! Then every few days I sit in a van for about 6 hours!

    Today we swam with reef sharks, turtles and schools of colourful fish. Visited some lovely island beaches and saw jumping dolphins on the way back to town.

    On one of the islands we saw lots of white face monkeys.

    And hows this for weird. We are out in our boat cruising up the coast when we see a motor boat with three guys and a horse! The horse is lying down with its legs tied and hanging over the side of the boat. Our guide told us the horse was drugged so they could transport it! No idea where they came from as there was nothing on the coast for miles!

    Have a look at the town lawyer's office! Its combined with a coffee shop!

    Nice relaxed evening with home cooked pasta with the leftovers from last night - a pretty good meal!
    Read more

  • Staring at the ocean

    February 17, 2017 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Last morning to relax by the beach before the six hour journey to Panama City.

    Contemplated having a surfing lesson but decided to sit in a cafe with a stunning ocean view! Probably last time to chill on my Central American adventure.

    Luca I will have a surfing lesson with you and then we can surf together!

    Arrived in Panama City after dark. Turns out our hotel is on the border of a really dangerous area where you shouldn't even walk during the day! What a great choice! Decide to get McDonalds and head back to the hotel. Its a 5 minute walk in the wrong direction. I see the sign and a fairly well lit wide street so decide to go for it. There is a park on the other side with a man sitting on each park bench?! That can't be good!

    Get the burger and bolt back to the hotel.
    Read more

  • I see the Panama Canal!

    February 17, 2017 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    But I can't attach any photos as my phone storage was full so they are all on my camera.

    But I have videos which I am going to make all of you watch! Ships slowly going through the canal on a loop I think!

    We hired a van today and went to a view spot to check out the city. Then to the old city to walk around. It was so hot and humid that I went through two litres of water!

    The old part of the city is lovely and they are doing alot of restoration work.

    We also drove by the very poor part of Panama City where we were advised never to walk at any time of the day.

    Next was the Panama Canal and it really was exciting watching the huge cargo ships go through the locks. What an engineering feat.

    China and America are the countries that use the Canal the most and it can take between 8 and 10 hours for the ships to pass through the canal. It generates about $2.4 billion in income each year!

    Then onto the biggest shopping mall in the Americas and the 14th largest in the world! And it was packed. So easy to get lost!

    Have to fill in time tomorrow before my flight so might go back.

    Then the farewell dinner and I am so overjoyed never to have to see most of these people ever again! Truly dreadful and enough to put you off ever going on a tour again. I certainly won't be using this travel company again. Thank goodness for the nice ones who helped make it bearable.

    Finally back to the hotel. Wonderful air conditioning, wi fi and peace - what more could I want!

    Have the dreaded task of packing tomorrow.

    In one of the shots you can see the ships heading for the canal.
    Read more

  • Panama City to LA

    February 18, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Goodbye to Central America! What a fabulous trip.

    Filled in time by going back to the mall.

    Spent alot of time sitting in Panama airport watching bags being unloaded from the planes and hurled into the carrier trucks!

    At LA quick processing through customs but a 40 minute wait for the bags.

    Then picked up rental car (about midnight) and drove to hotel in the rain. Checked in then out again to get some fast food. Exhausted.
    Read more