Mexico
Mascota

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    • Day 2

      Day 1 in Mascota - A Hike and a Parade

      December 12, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Our flat is in a great location, only about 2 blocks from the centre so it is close, but just far enough away for some peace and quiet. This is Mexico, you know! Always a cacophony of sounds.

      The first thing that we always have to do, is a basic food shopping. So, we wandered around a bit and found Mascota’s grocery store. It’s not big but seems to have a little of everything, including ... blocks of cheddar cheese! This area is an agricultural area with lots of cows in the valley so there will no problem finding dairy products.

      We couldn’t resist stopping at a taco stand on the way and the tacos were so good. A good decision, as we could not ignore the yummy smells coming from the stand.

      Food shopping was a breeze. If the store didn’t have something, like Bailey’s, the very helpful attendants pointed us out in the right direction to find those things. The people here are very helpful.

      The rest of the morning was spent cleaning everything in the kitchen to our standards. Now we were ready to settle into the next three weeks in Mascota.

      We ate ham and cheese sandwiches and then went out to explore a bit. The town is small but spread out. It is in a valley surrounded by mountains. People have lived here for hundreds of years.

      Last night we could see a lit cross high up on a small mountain, called Cerro de la Cruz. If there is a cross on a mountain there is probably a path leading to it. We walked from the main square, down our street to the beginning of the trail. The first part of the walk is on a rough road and then you go through a small gate to the trail. The path for the first part of the walk is wide and not too steep. About halfway up, 600 stairs (I counted) continue to the top and have been made with the names of Mascota’s families written on the face of the stairs. A cool idea.

      You pass a few horses and a few people walking their huskies and then you reach a place where there is a beautiful view of the city and a small chapel with archaeological finds placed around the site. Then the walk becomes steeper. At the top is the cross and a view of the entire valley. Not a long walk, but we are up about 4,500 ft and I am out of shape. Haha. Good exercise and a reward of a beautiful view at the top.

      We walked home at around 6:30 pm and it was still light outside. Once the sun goes behind the mountains, it gets dark quickly.

      Today is a big holiday for religious people in Mexico - Virgen de Guadalupe Day. I love the story about this Mexican virgin who is loved by all.

      Church bells have been ringing all day and fireworks scaring away evil spirits. In the early evening, people were walking to the centre as a long parade was going to take place. We joined the crowd and enjoyed the closeness of all the people. A real community. So many people were at the church that the service was held inside the big church as well as outside in the courtyards.

      Today was a nice introduction to the lovely little village of Mascota.
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    • Day 22

      Happy New Year 2020!

      January 1, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      On New Year’s Eve, Mascota gears up for night time festivities like every place that we have been. A dance in the plaza has been planned with a local band playing and lots of fireworks at midnight.

      Silvia, the lady who cleans our apartment and in general handles any issues we may run into, came at 10 a.m. to change our sheets, bring fresh towels and clean. She is a sweet lady who doesn’t speak any English but she is very kind and helpful. When she comes, we usually head out for a walk so that we aren’t in her way.

      Our landlords, Margarita and Andres, live in Guadalajara but are in Mascota visiting family for a
      few days. They stay in their big house behind our apartment. As we were going out, we met them and thanked them for the raicilla. They asked us how we had enjoyed our time in this town and then asked if we wanted to join them for the afternoon at their family’s ranch in the mountains.

      What a great offer and one that we could not refuse. Their nephew, Chuy, drove us all up, past the Mocajete volcano and onto a side road to a lovely spot overlooking a series of distant mountains and valleys. What a view!

      The family had purchased the property ( seven acres of avocado trees ) and built a beautiful main house there. They all have construction backgrounds so are now in the process of building several rustic cabins for visitors.

      The main house looked out over a pond full of fish, surrounded by a forest of oak and pine trees.
      Dogs, cats, chickens and geese lived together with the family in harmony.

      Margarita and Andre’s 3 nephews and their families are all working together to create this little piece of paradise and what an accomplishment! The oldest nephew, Roberto, is married and his wife is a wonderful artist. Her handiwork can be seen all over the house - paintings, sculptures, decorations, etc.

      After a tour of their place, we were invited to sit at a large table under the veranda, to continue our Spanglish conversations about life in Mascota and Mexico and Canada. We all got along so well together and really enjoyed our time together. The men cut and chopped up small pieces of bass, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions to make a huge bowl full of delicious ceviche. Another huge bowl had marinated shrimp. It all went down easily with Mexican beer - Modelo and Corona.

      We had a wonderful conversation with Roberto’s son who is in his 5th out of eight years studying to be a Catholic priest. Quite a young man. Roberto’s daughter joined us a little later and was just just as lovely.

      We had met Chuy before, as he had come to the apartment to fix a few things up. He spoke
      English quite well as he had worked in the U.S., along with his two other brothers. His son, another
      Chuy was quiet yet interested in learning about life in Canada.

      We were privileged to have shared the last afternoon in 2019 with this warm and friendly family. They live in a Utopia of their making and we wish them the best in all future endeavours.

      By the time that we got home, the sun was setting and it looked liked Mascota’s centre was ready for the big night.

      We decided to stay in (old foggies) and watch a movie on our one English movie channel before going to bed. Thank heavens, it was a good one! At midnight, the ruckus began with bells ringing and fireworks booming. Our balcony patio was the perfect place to watch the streaming ‘shooting stars’ and the big colourful sunbursts.

      Happy New Year 2020!
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    • Day 20

      Search for a Good Raicilla (Rye-see-ya)

      December 30, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Mexican Moonshine - Tequilla, Mescal, Raicilla. We had heard of the first two but Raicilla? What is Raicilla?

      In a few days we will be meeting up with our Bellingham friends, Pat and Gail in the beach town north of Vallarta. A few happy hours will probably be on our presently non-existent agendas. So ...why not look into finding a good raicilla to take to Chacala?

      Raicilla is a pre-hispanic, moonshine-style version of mezcal that is distilled in the Jalisco coastal towns like Puerto Vallarta and its surrounding little villages, such as Mascota. Coastal raicilla tastes different than the raicilla made from a small wild agave grown in the mountains.

      The process of making raicilla is similar to that of Oaxacan mezcal.

      1. Grow a wild agave (typically Maximilana or Lechuguilla) for six to eight years.
      2. Fire-roast it in a clay oven.
      3. Mash it by hand in an oak ‘ canoe-shaped’ log trough.
      3. Ferment the shredded cooked agave “mash” in wooden oak barrels.
      4. Distill once.
      5. Water down with fresh spring water.

      (Distilling tequila requires Blue Agaves to be steamed in stainless steel ovens.)

      The drink itself is ancient but has started to become an upscale drink. I believe that it is now sold in the U.S. and quite expensive. Funny knowing that it was once a humble beverage, primarily enjoyed by farmers.

      Mezcal was forbidden and taxed heavily after the Spanish conquest. So production moved underground. When tax collectors came to small villages, locals lied and said that it wasn’t made from the piña or agave heart (which was taxable) but from its root (raicilla)” — which, of course, is the same thing. They called the drink Raicilla which means “Little Root”.

      We have seen bottles of Raicilla all over town and when we first arrived, there was a raicilla festival taking place. We learned that the best raicilla is made from the wild Maximilia agave plant, which is known as Lechugilla here. It grows in the mountains surrounding the town

      The raicilla museum here is housed in a very old mansion in the centre of town, which is being renovated right now. Not much of a museum but we were able to sample a few shots. Strong stuff (70 - 150+ proof!). The people who enjoy drinking it, take it straight, on the rocks or mixed with Squirt/grapefruit juice.

      Buying a bottle of raicilla for us would be a hit or miss when it comes to quality and taste. We don’t know enough about good and bad, or the cost of a bottle. So, we thought that we would ask our land lady, who would most likely could give us good advice regarding what kind and where to buy it.

      I did do some research and the few good commercial raicillas kept coming up, like the white Estancia Raicilla Maximiliana. But that raicilla is made in the neighbouring town, Estancia, and we wanted something from Mascota.

      Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who grew up in this area,
      if he would find us some good quality stuff. He kindly went out to a ranch and he got us the real
      deal. No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. Thanks Andres!

      So, Pat and Gail, are you ready for a few (lol) 4 o’clock happy hours with ‘the best’?

      P.S. We did find a great roast chicken place and bought a full chicken, coleslaw, tortillas and salsa for dinner.

      No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. He assured us that it was really good.

      Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who has lived here all of

      his life, out to get us some good stuff. We got the real deal, without a label!

      I did do a little research and Estancia Raicilla Maximilia keep popping up as a good commercial
      raicilla. But that is made in Estancia, not Mascota. We will see what Margarita says.
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    • Walking to the Mines, and a ‘Trip’!

      March 17, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      It’s Friday and it’s St. Patrick’s Day. We got up early and decided to go for a walk to where the mines used to be. For me, it was a perfect hike through a lovely mixed forest filled with birds and at the perfect temperature for walking. It was fun thinking of what it used to be like here when miners with their equipment and mules loaded with stones were coming and going to the mines that made San Sebastián del Oeste so rich a few hundred years ago. We started at the curved bridge.

      After about 45 minutes of walking, we arrived at the entrance to the Santa Gertrudis mine, which had the highest productivity in its time and remained in operation until the 20th century. It is the only one open to the public, and you can go in a few yards to take a photo.

      We continued up the road a short ways but them decided to turn around and head home. As I was coming down an incline covered in small rocks and leaves, I slipped on a rock and fell forward cutting and hurting my knee. So after cleaning the bleeding knee, but with no bandages to cover it, I hobbled back to town (3km), using Chris as my walking stick.

      On the way, we passed a house where a lady felt sorry for me so she sprayed my cut with a marijuana concoction and gave me gauze and tape to contain the bleeding somewhat. When we got to town, we stopped at a restaurant for breakfast. The waitress ran in and got her aloe vera spray and some clean gauze and tape. She also cut off a leaf of her aloe vera plant for me to take home.

      On Saturday morning, the cut was still bleeding and my knee was very sore so I thought it was time to see a doctor. Luckily for us, there is a tiny clinic that opened at 1:30 pm, just on the outskirts of town. But the emergency doctor said he could see me at 11:30. But how could I walk there? Wouldn’t you know, the local police commandant offered to have a police officer drive me there in his 4x4.

      After a wheelchair ride to the office and a quick check, the doctor assured us that I would be okay. I had sprained my knee and it would take a while to feel better. He cleaned up my cut, wrapped up my knee with a tensor bandage, gave me a prescription for Tylenol, suggested rest, ice, compression and elevation for at least 2 days. Then simple exercises. It all went well, and no charge. The police officer was there to pick me up and take me back to the hotel. Everyone had been so nice. Now time to do nothing for a few days.

      Chris found me a good book to read from a hotel’s trading library and I settled in. The knee got worse but the Tylenol helped. As the doctor had predicted, by the 5th or 6th day, the knee felt much better. A week later, wanting to ‘get into the saddle’, was able to slowly and carefully and with Chris’ help, walk ‘back to the scene of the crime’. I was pretty proud of myself and once again loved the walk. Hope to do it again in the coming days.

      I should mention that we returned to the restaurant and the lady recognized me and wanted to inspect my knee again. She offered me a special salve to help out the ligaments when she saw the difficulty I had while in the process of sitting or standing up..

      The pharmacist, who is also a dentist, suggested a white powder to put on the cut that didn’t stop bleeding for a week, I probably needed a stitch or two. The powder disinfected the cut and dried it up. He also suggested something to bring down the swelling. Everything that I got really helped out. People here are so caring.

      Now I have until April 3 to continue to get better before our flight home.
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    • La Bufa for My Birthday

      March 31, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      In the distance the Cerro de La Bufa Mountain towers high above the town. Everywhere we go, we can see it. It is a huge rocky outcrop 8,200’ high and for some reason both of us wanted to go up to its summit and see what San Sebastian’s number one attraction was all about.

      So, Chris came up with the perfect birthday present for me. He arranged to have a vehicle take us to the top of La Bufa. How exciting! Chris certainly knows what I like!!!

      About 9 kilometers away, it takes 45 minutes and a hired driver/guide with a 4-wheel drive to get there. Chris arranged for a powerful dune buggie-like machine to take us up. So much fun!

      The ride up the cobblestone and dirt roads surrounded by huge trees and rocks was truly an adventure. It must have taken a lot of work to carve this road out of the side of the mountain.

      We came to a point dominated by a large telecommunications antenna. Vehicles couldn’t go any further. To get to the lookout, we had to walk on a somewhat difficult path that took us about 20 minutes. Doesn’t sound far but I was being super careful as my knee still isn’t 100%. And there was a lot of loose rubble. Finally we came out of the forest. We had arrived at the top of La Bufa. What a rush!

      There are no trees up there to block the impressive views of the Sierra Madre Mountains. There were hardly any clouds so we could clearly see San Sebastián del Oeste down below, La Estancia de Landeros in the distance and 50 km away, Banderas Bay. Bucerias appeared as a line of white buildings on the sea shore.

      Our driver told us that a lot of people get vertigo as the trail is on the edge of the bluff. There is a crude wooden fence. We were the only people up there so we had an awesome experience. We were on top of the world.

      We retraced our way back to the driver who then took us to Real Alto, a very small and old mining town with wood and stone houses nestled in the mountains. I think that only 30 people live there, mostly mariachi musicians, we were told. I am not sure how they can live in such an isolated place, high in the mountain. Its main attraction is the 400-year-old church venerating Our Lady of the Rosary. Apparently, she performs miracles. Despite the church’s very rustic white facade, inside we could feel the importance through the years of this old building.

      On the way back, the driver stopped and showed us a small.plane that had crashed on the mountain. Apparently it caught fire when in the air and dropped onto a farmer’s field. There were 2 passengers who lived but were taken to the hospital in Puerto Vallarta. The plane stayed in the field and no one ever came back to claim it.

      On this special trip, we took the time to see, feel, smell and hear all that this setting has to offer. The pine trees, the wind, the birds, the dust, the peace and the beautiful views at the top.

      Chris nailed it!
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    • Day 20

      A Non-Existent Petrified Field

      December 30, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      In the tourist brochures that we have read about Mascota, a petrified field called Malpais is mentioned as being a place to visit.

      From a Puerto Vallarta tourist information website it says:

      “The petrified field at El Malpaís is located a mile northeast of Mascota. It is said that during a day of strong volcanic activity the whole place was covered with ashes and lava. There is a legend that states that people have found a fruit orchard in the middle of the fields, they'd eat some of the fruit and later when they'd try to find the place again, they couldn't.”

      For the past week, we have wanted to see that field. One farmer asked us if we were talking about
      the pile of black rocks. I guess that we were. One brochure even said that the area was a park.

      So today, we walked to the park. At one time, the whole area that we were walking in was owned by a landlord who had a hacienda called San Nicolas. Now the hacienda is pretty run down and several families live in the remains of the big, old house. But just up the road, there are many lovely homes built on sizeable properties. There are some very nice cabins that can be rented also. The views are beautiful.

      As we walked past a treehouse with a satellite dish and a big deck, two dogs decided to join us - a black lab and a small white dog. That was cool. They led the way.

      Well, we walked and walked. No petrified field in sight. Lots of cows and horses and farmlands... nothing petrified. Finally we reached the end of the road. We couldn’t go any farther.

      A farmer was working in his field and he came over to talk to us. He told us that the land was private and there was no park. He figured that it was information to draw people to the area but a park certainly didn’t exist. Hmmmn

      He was a really nice guy though and asked us if we had felt the 4.7 earthquake that shook buildings for 5 seconds last night. Nope we didn’t. Maybe we did but thought that it was a truck rumbling by on the cobblestone road. I checked though and he was right.

      He proceeded to tell us all about the history of the area and about the government and all sorts of other things. I guess that he was dying to talk to someone. He did live out in the boonies. We couldn’t take the biting flies or mosquitoes anymore so said adios and walked back home along that lovely road.

      All in all, we walked 9.75 km. It definitely was not a 1 mile walk north of Mascota! And ... no petrified field... It’s Mexico...
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    • Day 18

      An Old Cinder Cone Volcano

      December 28, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Not every day is sunny here and today is one of those days. But cloudy days here are great for long hikes and for taking some good photos, so ...

      We went on a 4 hour walk to an old volcano called El Molcajete. A molcajete is a round basalt stone dish with three little legs used for crushing items, like chilies, used in cooking. (Mortar and pestle). The volcano that we saw, is cone-shaped and has a deep impression in it that can be seen in aerial views. It looks like a molcajete.

      Our walk, north of Mascota took us past fields of yellow sunflowers and red chilies. People were in fields with huge baskets on their backs, picking the peppers.

      The views were amazing! Rows upon rows of old volcanoes, just beyond the farmers’ field. It was exceptionally quiet in this area, as few cars drove on this country road so all we heard was the sound of birds, and the occasional sound of a cow, goose or rooster. So tranquil.

      It started to rain just as we returned back to the town. Perfect timing.

      As we had walked 10.5 km on a mostly cobblestone road in the mountains, we felt as a treat we would drop in for a delicious vegetarian pizza and limonada at the local Italian restaurant, Los Nopales. At the end of the meal, getting out of our chairs was a little difficult and it wasn’t just because of all the food...
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    • Day 9

      Yerbabuena - a village of 400, maybe..

      December 19, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Today the two of us walked a very dusty road to Yerbabuena, a tiny neighbouring town in the mountains. Wouldn’t you know it, but a 3 day fiesta to the Virgen de Guadalupe, was on it’s third day in this village and we arrived just as the mariachi’s started playing in the square.

      It is a tiny place with a pretty pond created by a dam and big houses on large lots. As we
      wandered around the town, one man invited us in to have a coffee. He lives in Zamora, the city that we lived in when we taught English there, 20 years ago!

      Several logging trucks, full of logs, passed us. One driver stopped to double check the straps holding the logs. He had some pretty steep roads to negotiate on his journey and for sure didn’t want his load to shift!

      There really isn’t much information about this village, whose name means spearmint, or why it is where it is, but we had an interesting walk through farmland. Two favourite Mexican birds of ours are the bright red Vermillion Flycatcher and the yellow Kiskadee with its black mask. We saw lots of them as we walked to town.

      It was around 2 pm when we got back to Mascota and it was the perfect time to eat some wonderful tacos at a roadside stand before getting home. A 9.7 km walk. Not bad.

      It is a tiny
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    • Day 23

      Last Day in Mascota

      January 2, 2020 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      Well, today is our last day in Mascota. There are several places that we would have liked to have visited but we can’t do everything that we’d like to do, in three weeks.

      The Sierra Lago resort, high in the mountains sounds like a gorgeous place to visit with its lovely cabins and beautiful mountain top lake. The little town of Navidad with its famous homemade ice cream and people of French background. The 7 hour circuit through the mountains to all sorts of hidden towns, lakes and volcanoes. Also to San Sebastien, an old mining town, that has been left behind in time with its mountain and mirador called La Bufa. The verb bufar is the sound that bulls or horses make, a kind of snorting sound. It is called La Bufa because when the wind blows in the mountains there, it sounds like snorting.

      We walked to the bus station and bought our tickets to Puerto Vallarta, where we will meet our friends before taking a taxi to Chacala, Nayarit. Then wandered around to say goodbye to Silvia, our maid, Andreas in the coffee shop, the pharmacist who walks his dog up the mountain to the cross every day, Manuel, the tourist information guy in the centro, Ruben the belt and saddle maker, the tortilla ladies, the ice cream maker on the corner, and so many more. It has been easy making friends with the warm and friendly people who live here.

      While we were in the centre, we met an artist from the States who was looking forward to teaching a landscaping course in Mascota, Thomas Van Stine. He won’t have trouble finding beautiful places to paint!

      Fifteen minutes later we met Jonathan Dahl, an editor and chief of the Wall Street Journal, who was on tour from Vallarta to Talpa. The tour group had an hour stop in Mascota and we think that in the short time that Jonathan was here, he fell under Mascota’s charm, as we have.

      Chris did a last walkabout, while I cleaned out the fridge and did some housekeeping, and then we went out for a dinner at our favourite restaurant, El Tapanco (the loft). The owner is Italian so we had his tasty lasagna with a salad, and a beer for $7 Cdn. That included the tax and tip. Where can we get a delicious meal for that price at home? Even making it at home would cost more!

      We have really enjoyed being here and wish Mascota and its residents a prosperous New Year!

      But we are looking forward to a new adventure with our friends Pat and Gail in the small beach
      town of Chacala in the state of Nayarit.
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    • Day 3

      Unfinished Temple of the Precious Blood

      December 13, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Today, we woke up to the usual morning sounds in Mexico - the church bells, a chucking gecko, roosters and cars rumbling by on the cobblestone street. For some reason, there doesn't seem to be many noisy dogs here. The sun was shining as we walked to Dona Esther’s in the market for breakfast.

      We stopped at a tourist kiosk in the Centro to ask about a calendar of events. Lots of activities will be going on here during the Christmas holidays. The posadas start on December 16 and Christmas decorations are being put up all over the town.

      Breakfast in Dona Esther’s was good old fashioned Mexican fare - scrambled eggs, chorizo, beans and fresh tortillas. A green juice for Chris and a giant strawberry smoothie for me.

      We had an extra apartment key made at the hardware store and walked on to the ruins of a huge unfinished cathedral, Templo Inconcluso de la Preciosa Sangre.

      One minute we we walking on a dusty cobblestone street, admiring a couple of beautiful roosters (fighting?), watching as a cowboy rode by on a beautiful black horse and the next minute we entered the huge stone ruins of what was planned to be the largest cathedral in Latin America. We walked through a stone gate into a lovely garden, filled with bougainvillea and bird of paradise plants.

      I read this little blurb about the church:

      “The first stone of the Preciosa Sangre church was placed right at the end of the 19th century, but most of the rest of the construction dates to the first decade of the following century. The idea came from a citizen who wanted to build another big temple for the town. Construction was halted when the Revolution broke out and probably not resumed because of the continuing post-Revolution conflicts, especially in Jalisco."

      We were lucky to meet a Mexican man, Pedro, who took care of the gardens. He was happy to take us around and point out the details used in constructing this incredible building as well as to give us some Mexican history lessons about what was happening in this area during and after the Revolution.

      At present, one small section of the church has been completed and is used as a seminary for first year (18 year old) students. There is a chapel with a beautiful altar and one of two old statues in the world showing Christ bleeding on the cross.

      As we were coming home, it got hotter and hotter. It is quite cool in the mornings and evenings but a little too hot for us now at around 2 pm - siesta time!

      In the evening, the square was hosting a ceremony for recognizing raicilla makers in the area. Raicilla is a distilled drink made in a way similar to tequila. Here’s a little blurb I found about one company’s Raicilla made from a wild agave plant called Lechuguilla:

      “Estancia Raicilla Lechuguilla is made with the wild agave Lechuguilla in La Estancia de Landeros, about one kilometre above sea level in the Jalisco foothills. The agave used in this Raicilla are roasted in an adobe oven for two days, and Old Jack Daniel’s bourbon barrels are used to ferment the cooked agave. Once fermented, this Raicilla is double distilled in copper alembic stills.

      Estancia Raicilla is made in the highlands of the Sierra Madre Occidental. In 2014, Rio Chenery left New York City for the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico with the hope of making his family’s favorite drink. The legend goes that in the ‘60s his grandfather, who worked for the Tecate beer company, came across a rare agave spirit in the small mountain town of Mascota on a business trip and fell in love with it. The locals called it Raicilla, and over the years it became a family favorite. Estancia Distillery is founded with the vision of bringing this rare agave spirit to the world.”

      I will write another footprint about raicilla in a later blog. It is uniquely from this area.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Mascota

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