A Francophone Adventure

October - November 2023
Sebs and my main holiday together would be a 4 week adventure through 3 francophone countries: Mauritius, Madagascar and France.
We'd see how good my French language skills would be after 10 months of learning it via Doulingo and Charles Leclerc.
Read more
  • 32footprints
  • 3countries
  • 26days
  • 283photos
  • 23videos
  • 22.2kkilometers
  • 10.2kkilometers
  • 10.0kkilometers
  • 95kilometers
  • 4kilometers
  • Day 22

    A Doctor's Appointment for Last Supper

    November 15, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our wake up call was rather early today, as our flight back to Tana was starting at 7.30am.
    I was feeling awful again, as I not only got my period, but also very bad diarrhea. Yesterday, I had it too, but it only caught up with me today. So, when we stood in line for the check-in, I had to sit down and rest, focus on breathing and not hyperventilate.
    Very fortunate for me, the flight was on time and we were back in Tana in no time. Unfortunately, our rooms at the Belvedere hotel weren't ready yet, so the group decided on going to the Handcrafts Market in town. The pills I took gave me enough strength to pass the next hour of constant "Please have a look", "Good price, good price" and "I made it myself" (spoiler: they never did). Finally, it was over and we drove back to the hotel where we checked in for one last night in Madagascar. We had only planned for one last dinner together with the group at 6.30pm, so the day was pretty much free for our use. Bad thing that I had to use it mostly for laying in bed feeling awful, only leaving it for the toilet to let out all the water that I so desperately tried to put into my body. I was drinking up electrolytes as crazy, but my body revolted against it more and more until I had to puke instantly after drinking them. Afterwards, I just stuck to normal water.
    When time had come for dinner, I felt like shit, however, I wanted to see my fellow comrades one more time and just share all the new memories that we made. So I clenched myself onto Sebs arm and dragged my body to the restaurant. But my head was so dizzy and I felt so weak that I quickly decided to go back into the hotel again. Especially after hearing that there would be a curfew because of the presidential election the next day, I wanted to be back in our room as quickly as possible. We asked Solofo to call the doctor to see me in the hotel and said Goodbye to everyone. It was rather heartbreaking, but I needed to lay down again. Seb got me back to the hotel safely and I tried not to hyperventilate for the next two hours until the doctor and Solofo finally arrived.
    As the doctor could only speak two words in English, we needed Solofo for translation. You'd think that such well educated people like doctors would be able to speak something else than French, but you'd be wrong.
    After testing my blood pressure, breathing and tongue stretching abilities, he put me on an infusion. "You're dehydrated, you've lost way too much water, your body is weak", Solofo translated for me. Well, I knew that much... Whilst I was on the infusion, the doctor perscriped me about ten kinds of drugs to get in the morning. Some others, he gave me right away. After a while the infusion finally kicked and I didn't feel like Death was waiting behind the door anymore. However, I still needed lots of rest. So Seb paid the doctor (changing some more money as we hadn't had enough), and they all took off. How would I be able to manage the 12 hrs flight tomorrow? I tried not to stress about that tonight anymore and fell into a very rough sleep.
    Read more

  • Day 21

    A Rickshaw Driver Was Born

    November 14, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    This morning I woke up feeling better than yesterday, which made me very glad. Yesterday, Seb has come up with a plan together with Bernie and Roger to become Rickshaw drivers. Roger has already put a toe in the waters to test it when we were waiting for Kates lost luggage to arrive in Tulear the other day. He had paid a Rickshaw driver to let him try it and had been very much surprised by the fact that it is rather diffix6to steer these machines. But he was eager to evolve his driving abilities and Seb has agreed to jump on this waggon, too. Bernie just wanted to play voyeur and cameraman.
    They've planned to meet at 11am which bothered me as it was 30 degrees at 9am already and the Heat wouldn't do them well driving Rickshaws. But now it was too late and I decided to go with them. We made our way along the beach of Ifaty and after only 20m I felt how my heart was racing, the sweat was running and my head spinning. I'm just not made for the heat and especially not around here it seemed. But I bit my tongue until we finally arrived in the village nearby, sat down and gulped down some drinks. When I didn't feel so dizzy anymore, we went on to find some lucky Rickshaw drivers who'd be paid today for getting a ride instead of giving them one. Seb explained his wish, the guy didn't seem too thrilled but the money changed his mind quickly. However, the steering of the Rickshaw seemed to be way harder being on the main road with other vehicles passing, which made the owner of the Rickshaw change his mind yet again. After mere seconds, Seb was degraded to a normal passenger again and he drove into the distance toward our planned lunch location. As a Roger has already stopped another Rickshaw driver for his improvement, he drove off as well. Bernie and I decided to walk on our own feet and met the guys soon after. There, Seb got another chance on getting the gist of a Rickshaw Driver, as it was a small road where not many people or cars were around. His second try was better, though the Rickshaw owner seemed rather glad when he got his money and could vanish into the distance. Obviously, the video had to be rewatched multiple times during our wait for lunch at Chez Freddie. With the food, a cat arrived that was as thin as paper and as hungry as ever. I usually don't like cats too much, but I sympathised with it today, so I gave it a bit of my food. The dessert was mine though. Bad enough I had to share it with Seb.
    After lunch, we made our way back to the hotel, going over the beach. This time, two boys glued themselves onto our sides and tried to persuade us in giving them something. As we learned at the very first day, you shouldn't give kids anything, so I just repeated myself over and over again, saying that he should go to school. When he finally showed my something written on his arm and him gesturing a pen, it clicked. He wanted a pen, something to write with. Sebs new friend was the same, so we decided to get them something to write and in that regard some new clothes as well. We made them wait at the beach whilst getting a pencil from the reception (we only had one pen and still needed it for any eventualities flying back) and two t-shirts from our bungalow. Meeting them back at the beach, they were a bit disappointed about the pencil, I guess because they can't wrote on their skin with it. These poor kids don't even have paper for God's sake. The older boy was very happy about my orange Nike shirt, however the younger one was quite upset about Sebs Schalke t-shirt until he understood what Seb tried to explain to him. Obviously, right now he won't fit into that shirt (as he was only like 6), but he'd grow into it soon enough. Another sign that these people don't really think long-term but only for the here and now. But he got it eventually. For our gifts, they gifted us two of their necklaces as well, so we kind of exchanged things rather than just giving them. They were happy about the stuff, we were happy about making just the tiniest of positive impact and so we could part ways.
    The rest of the day was just relaxing at the pool, playing cards with Mike and later go to a restaurant with the group. On the way there, a horrible sight struck us: A dead dog body, already half eaten. Luckily, Seb managed to get away with me before I could start to try reanimation on it.
    Read more

  • Day 20

    Curtains Up for the Malagasy Wildlife

    November 13, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Last night has been horrible, as I was sick all the time. I was feeling so weak, I was laying in bed until 2pm, just eating one slice of plain bread. The rest of the day, I was sitting around the bar, trying to drink as much water as possible, which only resulted in me rushing to the toilet every other minute.
    When time for dinner arrived, I could only eat very little, as I felt sick again. And, lucky me, it seemed as if my period would just start to arrive.
    So, that has been a great day. But you can enjoy some amazing photographs that Tracy took with her camera that I couldn't put into a post yet. Curtains up for the breathtaking wildlife of Madagascar.
    Read more

  • Day 19

    And the Heat Strikes Again

    November 12, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our last long drive was waiting for us when we left the lodge this morning. I said Goobye to my friend Grey and hopped into the bus last minute. It would be yet another 7hrs of great bumpy roads for us. The landscape lost its trees by the minute and left nothing else but dry grass and stones. The surroundings changed from poor to poorer, the little huts from the villagers getting smaller and smaller, their faces grumpy and mistrusting.
    We had a quick stop at the biggest baobab in this region which is around 300 years old. Comparing its size and the size of the 300 year-old Elephant foot we saw yesterday, that was huge. We also stopped at some maybe fossils for Seb and Mike to take a look at, but they weren't sure and we moved on. It got hotter and hotter until we arrived in Tulear for our lunch break. When I sat down at the table, I felt very bad and it got worse by the second. Seb gave me some of my beloved electrolytes to drink, but my body was already kind of zoning out. I just tried to not faint, sit still, drink lots of water. I think, I got a heat stroke just then. Luckily, it was only another hour to go, but this hour took all of my strength. Finally, we arrived at the Bamboo Club in Ifaty, our home for the next three nights. Finally, we'd get some rest after this stressful round-trip.
    Read more

  • Day 18

    Dying from the Heat in the Isalo NP

    November 11, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This morning we woke up early again, to start our tour around the Isalo National Park. It's 25km wide and 180km long, which makes it the second biggest National Park in Madagascar. It has a variety of endemic plants and Insects that can only be found in the park. We left the lodge at 7am and it was already quite warm with around 25°C. Solofo told us, it would get around 35-40°C today. Not very good news for me...
    Our first challenge was the river that we had to cross with our bus. After Ninny, our driver, took a quick glance at it, he said that he can do it, and he just drove into the river. Solofo said that our weight actually helps steer the bus, as he can touch the ground with us. That's the first time, my weight actually helped someone, so I'll take it.
    We arrived at the bottom of the mountain range and were introduced to our guides. We then had to decide who wants to be in the fast group (those wouldn't get so many explanations and rather walk quickly to the stops) and who wants to join the slower group. As I know my walking abilities, Seb and I decided to join the second one. We started walking and it was clear immediately, that it would be a very tough walk, because of the heat. I enjoyed the explanations of the plants and little animals around, but I was always looking for the next shade to hide under. We learned that the Malagasy people around Isalo bury their dead with some black and white clothes and put a cloth around the. They then put them in a little cave at the lower part of the Isalo mountains and leave them there for around 2 years. After these 2 years, they get the dead people's bones out of the cave again, celebrate with them for a week and put them back up in a very high cave in the mountains so that they can become ancestors. Babys under 6 months won't be exhumed, nor would boys who haven't been circumsized yet (which usually happens between 2-5 years old, in a very brutal, old fashioned way). Women who didn't give birth during their life would be buried somewhere else as they weren't "worthy". As you can see... These believes and traditions are very much set into their culture, they still live it and they still believe in this bullsh*t. No wonder the country gets nowhere... I'm sorry to be so judgy about it, but everything regarding religion and God makes me want to scream.
    We moved on, saw some cool animals and local plants and finally arrived at the first natural pool. It was a beautiful oasis that had nearly crystal clear water and was just the right way to cool us down after all the sunny heat. We enjoyed about half and hour, until we went on for the second part of the first 7km to arrive at the campsite where we'd have lunch. This part was even harder, as it must have been way over 30 degrees by now and there was literally no shade anymore. But at least we had 400 steps to go down. Yippie!
    But we finally made it and arrived at the campsite. I was so done for the day. But there were another 5km to go to get to the black and blue pools behind the canyon. I honestly couldn't care less about it, and as Seb couldn't either, we decided to just get back to the lodge after lunch.
    The fast group came back from the black and blue pools about 10min after we arrived from the first part of the 12km hike. So they were quick!
    They told us it was quite an enjoyable walk, mostly in the shade but you'd have to go up and down lots of steps in the narrow canyon. As my knees hurt already, I just called it a day, enjoyed my lunch and the walk back to the bus.
    Back at the lodge, we chilled a bit in our bungalow, cuddled with Grey and booked ourselves a massage.
    It was only 12€ p.p. for 45min, so we said "What the heck". However, at least for me, it was horrible. My masseur was so rough and was putting so much pressure especially on my joints that I nearly cried. And I couldn't really tell her to do it differently, as she couldn't speak English. So, I endured the pain and was just very happy when it was over. Looking to my right, I saw a totally relaxed Seb sitting next to me. Well, at least someone was enjoying it.
    Afterwards, I was just in pain and tried to move as little as possible. That I can do.
    But we had the possibility to look at a very well-preserved fossil that Jacob had found in the many clay stones around. Seb and Mike were extremely happy about it, so I was happy as well. At least a good end to a stressful day.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Creating Balance by Planting Trees

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived at Soa Zara and were welcomed by Jacob, the Dutch founder of the tree planting project. He reminded me of Max Verstappen, the Formula 1 driver, with his firm talking and efficient striking that didn't accept any weakness of himself.
    He explained to us, why he founded this project in the first place, and listening to him made me extremely sad.
    All the high plateau we drove through from Ranomafana to Ambalavao and Ranohira had been jungle 50 years ago. All the massive mountains that interrupt the landscape in between and are now completely blank, we're full with trees 150 years ago. If there is no change, in 2040 the southern region of Madagascar will be a desert. All these trees were cut by people, first because of the French Industrialization, then because of the locals' need to feed their Zebus. Where ever a tree stands, no grass can grow, so they cut the trees. However, when there are no trees, they can't give leaves to the soil and their roots can't hold it. So, whenever the heavy rainfalls arrive, the soil gets washed away by them. That's why the rivers are always muddy in Madagascar. Because the soil is washed off by rain. When it gets into the river, it'll end in the sea, and then it's gone forever. As Madagascar is a country on sandstone, there isn't a lot of soil, only about 2-3m in the southern region. Underneath you get the stone. And plants can't grow on stone. The soil gets very dry in the meantime, so that it's extremely hard and looks like stone itself. When the rain comes, the soil can't take all the water and, as I said, is washed away. The grass that the Zebu farmers love that much, they burn it whenever it is dry, so that new green can grow. However, by burning the old grass, all the nutritions from it leave as smoke with the wind, and the soil didn't get anything new to add again. So the grass will grow there multiple times, but after a while the soil won't have enough seeds or power anymore to grow anything. So the Zebu farmers have to cut even more trees to get more land for more grass that will last a couple months. This short-term thinking makes me furious and I don't get it. But then again... I get it. They're not educated, they just want to survive and they don't have the long-term sight that we have, because of the science we have access to. Oh, and I don't want to be a hypocrite, because even with all the science and knowledge on our hands, there are still enough western people who dismiss the fact of climate change and we still don't do enough to stop it.
    So, hearing all this from Jacob, made me want to cry, but this doesn't help anyone, so I'd rather help his project. He shows us some trees former G Adventures travellers have already planted. He showed us a huge tree and told us that it was planted about 4 years ago, then he pointed out another tree of the same species that was rather small and didn't look so fit. "This one is about 5 years old. It can't grow that easily because there isn't enough soil underneath it. Some tress get lucky, some trees don't. About 1/3 of all the 180.000 hectares we own aren't useful for planting trees anymore because of the missing soil."
    Uff. That's tough. Hopefully, our little piece of land would still have enough soil to grow our trees. We began the work and Seb and I planted three trees each, naming them Aluna, Andrea, Siegfried and Renata, Stefan and Olivia. Crossing fingers that they would grow up lucky.
    To plant 65 trees with 10 people took not enough ten minutes and I would have happily planted trees the next 2 hours. But I guess that it was more of a symbolic act then a real tree planting action. Tourists like us should talk about these problems and projects to solve them, so that others would come, help and donate. Jacob and his team is planting 300.000 tress this year, next year they are planning to do 1 million. They get help from the government by the way, they help them with all the scientific things like when is the best time to grow this tree where, etc. But they don't fund anything for the project. Oh, and I didn't talk about the Lemurs yet. The Ranohira village is next to the Isalo NP, which houses some kinds of lemurs. As they have less and less trees their too, they've searched for other habitats which made them come into human cities, where there are lots of predators like cats, dogs and... Humans. They might have got caught by people who sold them to some rich kid from Russia or the UAE. There, the lemurs get accustomed with human food and can't go back into the wild like that. They were living alone in a 1x1x1m cage as well, which makes them unsocial and usually not very fit. Lemurs like that sometimes get rescued by the Malagasy government or other organisations and have to be taught to live in the wild again. Right now, Soa Zara has 14 lemurs like that in their care that can't be visited by tourists. They try to remind them about their natural instincts again to finally put them into their natural habitats again. But if all the trees are cut before that can happen... Well. Soa Zara tries to recreate their habitats by planting trees so that in case of more migrations of desperate lemurs, they could find peace and safety in their trees.
    After cleaning our hands, we had a little snack buffet, watching the sunset and ants stealing our popcorn. Then Jacob told us about yet another project he's starting at the moment. Currently, he's building a restaurant that will have the following benefits: For every drink bought there, a tree will be planted, and for every meal purchased, a school kid from Ranohira will get a meal, too. With that, he wants to help the poor school children that won't have breakfast nor lunch because both their parents gone, to get something into their stomach. The fathers are working on the fields, whereas their mothers go to the last remains of the river to wash clothes. So in that regard, he's also building a washing station in the village, so that the women won't have to go to the river and wait for their clothes to dry. When they can wash their clothes in the village, they'll be home more, so they can feed their children more and get to spend more time with them. This may help the children to study more easily and therefore better, which makes them more educated with better chances of having a better life. So, you see how many small things intertwine and connect to a huge amount of problems that need solving.
    I'm glad, that I could be a small part of a good project like this.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    Ring-Tailes and Chameleons On Mas

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived at the Anja Community Reserve and found a family of Ring-tailed Lemurs after walking about 5min. They were play-fighting with each other, hopping from tree to tree and we're just in general quite active. These are the King Julian Lemurs from the film "Madagaskar" and I have to admit, these are my favourite ones. I just loved watching their behaviour. Nonetheless, I had to go ahead to discover more from the Reserve and found lots of insects, chameleons, snakes and more Lemurs. We even got very, very close to a mother with her baby in her arms that was sunbathing. That was a really special moment! I gotta say, from all the National Parks or Community Reserves I've seen so far in Madagascar, I liked the Anja Community Reserve most.
    However, our tour had to end sometime, so we jumped back into the bus and drove 4 hrs to Ranohira, where we'd finally stay for 2 nights. But before checking into our hotel, we'd go do some good for the planet.
    Read more

  • Day 17

    At the Paper Factory in Ambalavao

    November 10, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After an alright sleep in our upgraded bungalow, we woke up to go to the paper factory that was right on the hotels' property. We learned that the Avoha tree is the base for the Malagasy paper. The bark is shedded from the tree (instead of cutting it, making sure that it can re-grow and be used again) and cooked in hot water for 4 hours. Then, the now softer bark is getting beaten hundreds of times (which actually sounds like preparing a German Schnitzel). Afterwards, 400g of the bark mash is mixed with water and spread on a framed cotton sheet (150x75cm). There, the paper gets cut into shape and decorated with several plants/flowers. Then a kind of glue from the tree itself is put on the design, so that it will stick to the paper. Last step is to put the frame into the sun and let everything dry, until you can easily take the paper off the cotton sheet. That was quite interesting to learn about.
    Our luggage back on top of the bus, we made our way to our next stop on the itinerary: Anja Community Reserve.
    Read more

  • Day 16

    Kickstarting Back to Life

    November 9, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    This morning, our group split into the active ones going to Ranomafana National Park, and the lazy ones sleeping in. As Seb wasn't over his illness quite yet, we belonged to the lazy group. However, we did do something in the morning as well. We went to the hot springs of Ranomafana (which is the translation of the city's name). We had to buy very nice shower caps before entering the swimming pool that was filled with the filtered hot water. We looked like idiots :D
    When we entered the pool area, we could feel that we (especially me) would become THE hot topic of the village now, as they were whispering and taking pictures of us. I thought that lots of tourists would come to the hot springs, however my white skin seemed to still interest them a lot.
    The water was actually really hot, like around 40°C, which made it difficult to stay longer in the pool thsna few minutes. But it was enough to give us kind of a kick-start back to life after leaving it again. We walked back to our hotel which took about 5min. On the way there, we were stopped by a local who showed us his needed chameleons. At least he protects them because they bring him money.
    After packing our luggage, we took off to pick up the other NP group, however it was taking more time than anticipated, as there has been an accident on the only road we could drive on. There were policemen around, but they weren't really helping. So it took some time, but after around half an hour, we could drive again and picked up the others. They shared some great pictures of new species they saw in the National Park which I put into tje next footprint for you to enjoy as well.
    After having an early lunch picnic, we drove on to the Ranomafana waterfall for a quick photo stop. After that, it was another 4hrs to drive to Ambalavao for the night.
    The landscape changed from jungle to open savannah and mountains, not even remotely looking like you'd imagine Madagascar. But to be quite honest, the whole tour hasn't been like I've imagined it yet, soo...
    We arrived in Ambalavao and visited a silk factory. They cook the silk caterpillar cocoons in zebu fat for a couple of hours (so it's definitely not vegetarian nor vegan), and then extract the strings. They then get woven and coloured with mostly natural colours like beetroot (for purple) or flower roots (for grey). But the Malagasy silk doesn't feel like silk we're used to at all. It has a much rougher texture and is not as, well, silky. However, it's handmade and pretty cool therefore.
    We checked into our hotel for the night and had a quick dinner before going to bed early. Or at least, we tried to sleep early. However, when Seb sat down on our bed, it just broke down. After laughing our asses off, we looked underneath the mattress and saw a very simple structure from wood that just broke through. So, we went to the reception and asked what to do. Luckily, we got another room for tonight fast and could sleep in an upgrade now.
    Read more