Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro

403 miles done. 97 to go.

Today was a challenge. 800 m (.5 mile) elevation gain over 17 extremely muddy miles through the rain, sleet, and snow. I took a lot of breaks just for sanity. And, I stubbed my toe this morning on the corner of the bed, so walking with a bloody big toe added to the fun.

I made it over the border from the Castilla y León region to the Galicia region, and was immediately welcomed by the sound of bagpipes in the distance, an instrument known here since medieval times.

The village is cute… but really straight out of the 1400s. About a dozen buildings. All stone. Some with thatch roofs. Three restaurants in total. Feral cats and chickens scatter around every corner as you walk around the village. It’s almost like a movie set for “A Knight’s Tale.”

I’m wiped after that mountain climb and a heavy “pilgrims dinner” of Galician soup, steak and frites, and a dessert of queso and honey.

It is still snowing outside, but not sticking. Tomorrow is a trek downhill on the other side of this mountain. Hopefully through not as much mud as today. Night!Read more