Morocco
Wawizaght

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    • Day 208

      Backpacking

      March 10, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Now I find myself without my bike in a village in the middle of the Atlas Mountains.
      Although the place is relatively large, it seems to consist only of this crossroads.
      There is a lot of activity on the main street. Handcarts are pushed past, mopeds with attached trailers rattle by. The air is dusty and smells of the remains of the stalls and exhaust fumes. Cats roam around, looking for somebody to pet them and food.

      Ilyass and I wait for the bus to leave, but it takes time. We don't have enough passengers yet.

      My bicycle journey has taken an unexpected turn. My bike had a defect that prevented me from continuing. It has been repaired, but I had already prepared myself for backpacking.

      Ilyass and I will see the Atlas Mountains, the desert and oases in the coming weeks. An adventure within an adventure 🤠.
      We start our journey in a remote valley of the High Atlas.
      The supply of the valley is done by big transporters that drive a few times a day and connect all the villages and small huts.
      It is unbelievable how much freight they can carry, because a luggage rack is welded onto the roof, which can transport any amount of material (and also people).

      The road is partly a dirt track that winds steeply up the mountains. We rarely drive faster than 40 kph and for the sake of the passengers on the roof the velocity shouldn’t be higher.

      Mobility is difficult in the valley. The vans leave when enough people arrive and that can take a while. Further back in the valley, you don't notice the delayed departure, so the only thing that helps is to wait and allow enough time.
      Ilyass and I sometimes wait half an hour (or more) hoping that the bus will show up and take us to the next village (for lunch) or back. Sometimes a private car comes along to give us a lift. If not, there are only snacks to eat 😄.
      Because there is not much gastronomic choice here, we eat only omelettes for three days 😂 - but it could be worse.

      In contrast to the somewhat monotonous food, however, the views show a fantastic variety.
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    • Day 210

      Hiking the High Atlas

      March 12, 2023 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      With the backpacking tour I fulfilled a little dream:
      Hiking in the Atlas Mountains.
      The barren, rugged rocks, the remoteness - it all had a fascination for me.

      We try to find the Berber Passage, a path carved into the rock by the local hill tribes deep inside the valley.
      We meet a group of young Moroccan hikers and join them to find the passage.

      The road leads us to the last village of the valley, from where we set off into the mountains.
      We reach some waterfalls that spring directly from the rock and from where the nearby village draws its water.
      The scramble begins at an embrasure between two mountains. The first metres are already quite steep and are increasingly blocked by large stones and boulders, which make the climb even more difficult. Every now and then there are small climbing passages that require short planning of the steps and a sure footing.

      After a long ascent, we stop at a particularly piquant spot and discuss what to do. This doesn't seem to be the right way and there are concerns about safety.
      I realise now that the others don't know where the way to the passage is any more than I do and only know a coordinate, but not the way there. 🤨
      I show the boys a map of the area, which doesn't give us any more information than that we have to go to the other side of the mountain.
      A discussion ensues about whether we should go further. Everyone is asked, then a decision is made by scissors and rock paper🫣😳. The decision is made to go back.

      Ilyass goes on alone to prove that the path is manageable. The rest of the group waits.
      He finally manages to climb the next difficult section and waves and calls out to us. Because of the distance and the echo, nothing can be understood.
      Ilyass waits at the top for us to follow him. We wait too, as we had decided as a group to go down. Stalemate.

      So we wait for each other for about 20 minutes.
      In order not to extend the waiting game into infinity, I suggest we split up. It was decided that the others should descend and since Ilyass will not come back to us, I will climb up to Ilyass to let him know.
      In the end, everyone comes along and we continue to ascend.

      It gets more and more difficult. There are some climbing passages that fall into the category of 'point of no return' for me, because they are already really tricky on the ascent.

      Almost at the highest point, we finally have to admit that the path is not getting any easier and that it is better to turn back now than to venture further into the unknown.
      So we finally start the way back. Most of the passages on the way down are easier to do with concentration and climbing techniques than I had thought and we eventually overcome even the most difficult sections.
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    Wawizaght, Q7110203

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