• Masa
  • Masa

South America and Antarctica

An open-ended adventure by Masa Read more
  • Trip start
    January 30, 2018
  • A day in Santiago getting our bearings

    January 31, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    After a good sleep, it was time to wander around the city. Santiago is a mix of old and new, but in the heart of the city, the old dominates in the buildings and many cobblestoned streets. Typically of the Spanish influence, there is a major city square, bordered on one side the Catholic Church, and the City Hall on another. Occasionally there are small rallies in the square, but the police are usually there en masse - horseback, dog squad, mobile stations. Most people just seem to go about their normal day, coffee bars are a stand up affair. You buy a ticket for a coffee, then give the ticket to the waitress.

    We had hoped to see the Museum of Contemporary Art, but it is closed at present whilst a new exhibition is installed. We visited the Museum of Natural History instead.

    Still a bit tired from the flight, but getting some rest. Walked from one end of town to the other trying to get a local SIM card...not that easy. New regulations mean you can only get them from the main Telco office, but no need for ID, and you can buy as many as you need. A little Spanish helps. At least it was a great way to see the city.
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  • Santiago to Chillán

    February 1, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Well the time has come to start our journey south. We spent a morning at Parquemet in Santiago where we visited the statue of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Concepción which also provides a magnificent view of the city. Zawadi and Muffy have expressed a great interest in the nature of street art in Chile. The graffiti has a distinct local feel to it, part political, very expressive. One thing we noticed was the armoured vehicles with water canons at the ready outside the parliament. But that said, we felt safe in walking around Santiago.

    Chillán is a town which has a more rural feel, and has an unusually styled church which was built in 1941. The Cathedral de Chillán was built following earthquakes and as a memorial to those who died previously. The arches are designed to resist the shaking. As always in Chile, the church sits on one side of the town square, along with municipal buildings, fire station, school, theatre, shops and a bank. Standard fare here.
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  • Chillán to Temuco

    February 2, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    More travel, still jet lagged, and just happy to get the bus. We travelled through the Araucaria region, and at last we are really getting glimpses of the Andes and the Araucaria pines, which remind us of the Norfolk Island pines but are very different. All however, we mull over and agree that they most likely all developed from Gondwanaland.Read more

  • Temuco to Puerto Montt

    February 3, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After a late start to the morning...still kicking that old jet lag...we made our way to the bus terminus and boarded the bus to Puerto Montt. Temuco was a pleasant climate, but it is getting colder as we go south. We also began making a list of the last minute items we need and things to be done before we hit the Antarctic. Things like sunscreen, chapsticks, and another set of hiking poles to replace the pair Dave left at home.

    We continue to stay in ‘pensiones’ along the way, and love the local people we stay with. The places do not look much, but there is charm and comfort and friendliness.

    Not much to say other than we are still travelling south.

    Except to say where we are staying in Puerto Montt is a real fishing/port town. Hence the strip joints in buildings not much bigger than a garage, and the Christians across the road. Dave stood in the middle of the road between them and pondered his conscience.
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  • Peurto Varas and Volcán Osorno

    February 4, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Hired a car today. We went up the road a bit to Puerto Vargas on the edge of Lago (lake) Llanquihue, and found a great little restaurant which did the most amazing local foods, including a favourite of Zawadi’s - octopus - which was tender and served on avocado. Avocado is a staple in ChileRead more

  • Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas

    February 5, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Jet lag and yesterday’s long trip to Volcan Osborne had taken their toll, and so a lazy day was spent just driving about the town and then to the airport, where delay followed delay and eventually we were Punta Arenas bound around midnight.

    Hydrangeas abound in this regions, and the blue colour is spectacular. Puerto Montt is a working town, and that is evident in the buildings. It is also a port town, as evidenced by the ‘red light’ establishments everywhere.
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  • Punta Arenas

    February 6, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a very late (2 am) arrival in Punta Arenas, Dave collected a hire car and we proceeded to head off around the town, using the time to purchase any last minute necessities for the trip south. A lazy day really, considering the delays the previous night. But also a chance to catch up on sleep and start to do our final preparations.

    After dinner, we took the chance to rub or kiss the toe of the Indian at the base of the Magellan statue in the centre of the town square in Punta Arenas. Tradition has it that if you rub the toe you will have a safe return. Dave kissed the toe in the belief it would also alleviate any seasickness. It worked for him.
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  • Punta Arenas

    February 7, 2018 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Our second day in Punta and a chance to drive south to the Museo Etnico - Kenkeu, which is a recently established park focusing on the history of local tribes, especially the Selk’nam who were mercilessly decimated by the 1900s. The Selk’nam were indigenous to the Tierra del Fuego region. They were an average height of 2 metres, were mostly naked, and had adapted to the sub-zero climate through increased metabolism, use of animal fat to coat their bodies and crouching positions which allowed them to conserve energy.

    Our guides spoke a little English, and as we had read a bit about the tribe, we were able to assist them to improve their English whilst learning more about the area from them. The guides were excited to have their first Australian visitors, and even more delighted that two of the visitors were Aboriginal.

    Earlier in the day we took the opportunity to visit the Salesian museum in Punta, which houses a large collection of Selk’nam artefacts and information on other regional tribes. In the early 1900s, a Salesian brother, Brother Agustino took it upon himself to document in great detail, the local tribes in order to preserve their culture. Sadly there are few Selk’nam descendants today due to the bounty imposed on them by the colonial powers of the time.
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  • Punta Arenas to Antarctica

    February 8, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    We received the call at 5 am that there was a brief window to fly to Antarctica, so it was load on to the buses and out to the airport. We were fortunate with the cloud, as to land at King George Island the visibility has to be good, as they have no radar guidance. By mid morning we had landed having flown DAP (Penguin Air). Then it was a 2 km walk to the landing point and the waiting zodiacs, then aboard the ship.Read more

  • Deception Island

    February 9, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Well after a fantastic nights sleep with the ship slowly rocking and the bed soft and cradle-like, children rested from their seasickness the day before, time for a hearty breakfast. The snow was thick on the deck of the ship, reminding us we are in the Antarctic. First stop, Deception Island, landing at Whaler’s Bay. The ship navigated ‘Neptune’s Bellows’ and in to the harbour inside the calderas. Air temperature today is a brisk 2° C but as Deception Island is an active volcano under the water, it is warmer than most places we will visit. The air was relatively still, and the beach littered with the relics of the whaling and sealing industry from 1911 to 1931. Seals, mostly males, lazed on the beach, generally ignoring us as if they had seen it all before...and they have. An IAATO group was visiting on a British Antarctic ship, ensuring there is little impact due to tourism. Zawadi made a quick call home on the sat phone and then went off exploring the beach with others whilst Dave wandered up to Neptune’s Window. Welcome to the Antarctic.Read more

  • Hannah Point and penguins

    February 9, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sadly weather conditions proved the barrier, and the visit to the penguin rookery was called off. So Roger the ecologist offered to give a lecture on penguins and whales in the Antarctic. Zawadi attended a lecture on Antarctic wildlife and said it was very informative, and she also noted that the penguin chicks we will see are in the third stage and very inquisitive, so that may well prove exciting. We also gained our first glimpse of icebergs, and whilst a Minke whale was sighted off the ship’s bow, it made itself scarce...must have feared we were Japanese. Captain’s welcome drinks tonight then dinner, all quite civilised for an Antarctic expedition.Read more

  • Neko Harbour

    February 10, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Well today we landed on the Antarctic continent proper, at Neko Harbour. First job was to raise the Aboriginal flag and claimed Antarctica for the Waanyi. Doubt it would hold up in The Hague, but one can only try. Gentoo penguins were nesting, and the smell of penguin guano was evident. It stinks on the way in and worse on the way out. Weddell seals were evident on the beach and seemed unperturbed by our presence. One suspects it is business as usual for them. The penguins wandered about us, going about their daily activity and showing us up when it comes to rock hopping and navigating the icy slopes. Neko Harbour treated us to a couple of small glacial calvings.Read more

  • Lemaire Channel

    February 10, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    The afternoon saw the expedition pass through the Lemaire Channel, which is about 500 metres wide and encompassed by sheer glaciers and cliffs. Very scenic, and peaceful, even with a slight breeze.

  • Across the Antarctic Circle

    February 11, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    This is what the expedition was all about, the ability to say we had crossed the Polar Circle. The ship’s horn blew as we crossed latitude 66°33’47.0”S. Cook’s oath was taken by all promising to protect the Antarctic, and an ‘O’ stamped on our foreheads.Read more

  • Detaille Island

    February 11, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Detaille Island was the southern most point of our trip. We had hoped to travel slightly further, but the pack ice had moved in and rather than risk being stuck in the ice, the ship’s captain made the call to turn around at that point. We had, after all achieved the crossing of the Polar Circle.Read more

  • Paradise Bay

    February 13, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    A stunning morning with water like glass meant that the expedition could see some spectacular scenery. The divers saw jellyfish which lit up like LEDs. The kayakers had minke whales surface only metres from them. The name said it all.Read more

  • Cuverville Island and a BBQ

    February 13, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our second last day ashore Antarctica, gentoo penguins, fur seals, and that evening a BBQ on the back of the boat. IAATO guidelines are strict when it comes to food, you are not permitted to take food ashore, so the back of the ship was the venue. When the penguins in the distance were sick of the music, a scent of guano drifted in on the changing wind...coincidence?Read more

  • Port Lockroy

    February 14, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Port Lockroy was our last landing in Antarctica and a chance for some retail therapy and post cards to everyone from the Penguin post office. We also received the coveted ‘Antarctica - been there done that’ stamp in our passports. Port Lockroy is operated by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (of which we are members). Gentoo Penguin chicks abounded, as did the ‘eau de guano’ and sheathbill chicks were nested under the front verandah.Read more

  • Dallmann Bay, whales and polar plunges

    February 14, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The afternoon was an opportunity to watch for whales and with a calm moment and sunshine, time for a polar plunge. Seventeen passengers (including Dave) braved the elements to jump from the safety of the 4th deck in to the 2° water. 80 year old Barbara was the first in. The reward for those who braved the plunge was a T-shirt and certificate confirming ours insanity.Read more

  • Day 2 of Drake's Passage and Cape Horn

    February 16, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We arrived at the cape around lunchtime, and met the Chilean ship pilot whose job it was to guide us through the Beagle Channel. Because we were slightly ahead of schedule, a landing at Cape Horn was achievable, as the wind had died down to less than a few knots. The lighthouse keeper and his two daughters met us at the landing, and we proceeded up the steep stairway to the sailor’s memorial, a metal sculpture of an albatross. Albatrosses are believed to carry the souls of lost sailors. Soon after landing, the wind picked up to cyclone strength, making the ship return more hazardous, but we did it...and we got the ‘been there done that’ stamps in the passports.Read more