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South America and Antarctica
  • Masa
  • Masa

South America and Antarctica

Un’avventura a tempo indeterminato di Masa Leggi altro
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  • Inizio del viaggio
    30 gennaio 2018
  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore
    The main city square, the Catholic Church is prominent
    Inside the Museum of Natural HistoryCobblestone streets are all through the cityForget windowwashers, entertainment waiting for the light to changeSantiagoSantiago from above, encompassed by mountains

    A day in Santiago getting our bearings

    31 gennaio 2018, Cile ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    After a good sleep, it was time to wander around the city. Santiago is a mix of old and new, but in the heart of the city, the old dominates in the buildings and many cobblestoned streets. Typically of the Spanish influence, there is a major city square, bordered on one side the Catholic Church, and the City Hall on another. Occasionally there are small rallies in the square, but the police are usually there en masse - horseback, dog squad, mobile stations. Most people just seem to go about their normal day, coffee bars are a stand up affair. You buy a ticket for a coffee, then give the ticket to the waitress.

    We had hoped to see the Museum of Contemporary Art, but it is closed at present whilst a new exhibition is installed. We visited the Museum of Natural History instead.

    Still a bit tired from the flight, but getting some rest. Walked from one end of town to the other trying to get a local SIM card...not that easy. New regulations mean you can only get them from the main Telco office, but no need for ID, and you can buy as many as you need. A little Spanish helps. At least it was a great way to see the city.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore
    Early morning service in the plaza at Santiago
    The interiors of most of the churches are grandeAll the churches have heavy set wooden doorsThe Virgin Mary overlooks SantiagoZawadi and Muffy sit and sketchMeanwhile Dave looks out over a smog laden cityThe church in Chillan to honour earthquake victims

    Santiago to Chillán

    1 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Well the time has come to start our journey south. We spent a morning at Parquemet in Santiago where we visited the statue of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Concepción which also provides a magnificent view of the city. Zawadi and Muffy have expressed a great interest in the nature of street art in Chile. The graffiti has a distinct local feel to it, part political, very expressive. One thing we noticed was the armoured vehicles with water canons at the ready outside the parliament. But that said, we felt safe in walking around Santiago.

    Chillán is a town which has a more rural feel, and has an unusually styled church which was built in 1941. The Cathedral de Chillán was built following earthquakes and as a memorial to those who died previously. The arches are designed to resist the shaking. As always in Chile, the church sits on one side of the town square, along with municipal buildings, fire station, school, theatre, shops and a bank. Standard fare here.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore
    Down time waiting for buses means sketching
    Overnight digs in Temuco - don't judge a book...Puerto Montt is a port townOur stay in Puerto Montt for two nightsA block up the roadOpposite the strip jointGotta love the styles

    Temuco to Puerto Montt

    3 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After a late start to the morning...still kicking that old jet lag...we made our way to the bus terminus and boarded the bus to Puerto Montt. Temuco was a pleasant climate, but it is getting colder as we go south. We also began making a list of the last minute items we need and things to be done before we hit the Antarctic. Things like sunscreen, chapsticks, and another set of hiking poles to replace the pair Dave left at home.

    We continue to stay in ‘pensiones’ along the way, and love the local people we stay with. The places do not look much, but there is charm and comfort and friendliness.

    Not much to say other than we are still travelling south.

    Except to say where we are staying in Puerto Montt is a real fishing/port town. Hence the strip joints in buildings not much bigger than a garage, and the Christians across the road. Dave stood in the middle of the road between them and pondered his conscience.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas

    5 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Jet lag and yesterday’s long trip to Volcan Osborne had taken their toll, and so a lazy day was spent just driving about the town and then to the airport, where delay followed delay and eventually we were Punta Arenas bound around midnight.

    Hydrangeas abound in this regions, and the blue colour is spectacular. Puerto Montt is a working town, and that is evident in the buildings. It is also a port town, as evidenced by the ‘red light’ establishments everywhere.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore
    Dave kisses the toe for a safe return
    Msafiti rubs the toe for safe returnDinner at a local cafe

    Punta Arenas

    6 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    After a very late (2 am) arrival in Punta Arenas, Dave collected a hire car and we proceeded to head off around the town, using the time to purchase any last minute necessities for the trip south. A lazy day really, considering the delays the previous night. But also a chance to catch up on sleep and start to do our final preparations.

    After dinner, we took the chance to rub or kiss the toe of the Indian at the base of the Magellan statue in the centre of the town square in Punta Arenas. Tradition has it that if you rub the toe you will have a safe return. Dave kissed the toe in the belief it would also alleviate any seasickness. It worked for him.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Punta Arenas

    7 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Our second day in Punta and a chance to drive south to the Museo Etnico - Kenkeu, which is a recently established park focusing on the history of local tribes, especially the Selk’nam who were mercilessly decimated by the 1900s. The Selk’nam were indigenous to the Tierra del Fuego region. They were an average height of 2 metres, were mostly naked, and had adapted to the sub-zero climate through increased metabolism, use of animal fat to coat their bodies and crouching positions which allowed them to conserve energy.

    Our guides spoke a little English, and as we had read a bit about the tribe, we were able to assist them to improve their English whilst learning more about the area from them. The guides were excited to have their first Australian visitors, and even more delighted that two of the visitors were Aboriginal.

    Earlier in the day we took the opportunity to visit the Salesian museum in Punta, which houses a large collection of Selk’nam artefacts and information on other regional tribes. In the early 1900s, a Salesian brother, Brother Agustino took it upon himself to document in great detail, the local tribes in order to preserve their culture. Sadly there are few Selk’nam descendants today due to the bounty imposed on them by the colonial powers of the time.    Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Punta Arenas to Antarctica

    8 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    We received the call at 5 am that there was a brief window to fly to Antarctica, so it was load on to the buses and out to the airport. We were fortunate with the cloud, as to land at King George Island the visibility has to be good, as they have no radar guidance. By mid morning we had landed having flown DAP (Penguin Air). Then it was a 2 km walk to the landing point and the waiting zodiacs, then aboard the ship.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Deception Island

    9 febbraio 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Well after a fantastic nights sleep with the ship slowly rocking and the bed soft and cradle-like, children rested from their seasickness the day before, time for a hearty breakfast. The snow was thick on the deck of the ship, reminding us we are in the Antarctic. First stop, Deception Island, landing at Whaler’s Bay. The ship navigated ‘Neptune’s Bellows’ and in to the harbour inside the calderas. Air temperature today is a brisk 2° C but as Deception Island is an active volcano under the water, it is warmer than most places we will visit. The air was relatively still, and the beach littered with the relics of the whaling and sealing industry from 1911 to 1931. Seals, mostly males, lazed on the beach, generally ignoring us as if they had seen it all before...and they have. An IAATO group was visiting on a British Antarctic ship, ensuring there is little impact due to tourism. Zawadi made a quick call home on the sat phone and then went off exploring the beach with others whilst Dave wandered up to Neptune’s Window. Welcome to the Antarctic.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Hannah Point and penguins

    9 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sadly weather conditions proved the barrier, and the visit to the penguin rookery was called off. So Roger the ecologist offered to give a lecture on penguins and whales in the Antarctic. Zawadi attended a lecture on Antarctic wildlife and said it was very informative, and she also noted that the penguin chicks we will see are in the third stage and very inquisitive, so that may well prove exciting. We also gained our first glimpse of icebergs, and whilst a Minke whale was sighted off the ship’s bow, it made itself scarce...must have feared we were Japanese. Captain’s welcome drinks tonight then dinner, all quite civilised for an Antarctic expedition.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Neko Harbour

    10 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Well today we landed on the Antarctic continent proper, at Neko Harbour. First job was to raise the Aboriginal flag and claimed Antarctica for the Waanyi. Doubt it would hold up in The Hague, but one can only try. Gentoo penguins were nesting, and the smell of penguin guano was evident. It stinks on the way in and worse on the way out. Weddell seals were evident on the beach and seemed unperturbed by our presence. One suspects it is business as usual for them. The penguins wandered about us, going about their daily activity and showing us up when it comes to rock hopping and navigating the icy slopes. Neko Harbour treated us to a couple of small glacial calvings.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Cuverville Island and a BBQ

    13 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Our second last day ashore Antarctica, gentoo penguins, fur seals, and that evening a BBQ on the back of the boat. IAATO guidelines are strict when it comes to food, you are not permitted to take food ashore, so the back of the ship was the venue. When the penguins in the distance were sick of the music, a scent of guano drifted in on the changing wind...coincidence?Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore
    Lost and found from the BBQ

    Port Lockroy

    14 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Port Lockroy was our last landing in Antarctica and a chance for some retail therapy and post cards to everyone from the Penguin post office. We also received the coveted ‘Antarctica - been there done that’ stamp in our passports. Port Lockroy is operated by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (of which we are members). Gentoo Penguin chicks abounded, as did the ‘eau de guano’ and sheathbill chicks were nested under the front verandah.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Dallmann Bay, whales and polar plunges

    14 febbraio 2018, Antartide ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The afternoon was an opportunity to watch for whales and with a calm moment and sunshine, time for a polar plunge. Seventeen passengers (including Dave) braved the elements to jump from the safety of the 4th deck in to the 2° water. 80 year old Barbara was the first in. The reward for those who braved the plunge was a T-shirt and certificate confirming ours insanity.Leggi altro

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaViaggiatore

    Day 2 of Drake's Passage and Cape Horn

    16 febbraio 2018, Cile ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We arrived at the cape around lunchtime, and met the Chilean ship pilot whose job it was to guide us through the Beagle Channel. Because we were slightly ahead of schedule, a landing at Cape Horn was achievable, as the wind had died down to less than a few knots. The lighthouse keeper and his two daughters met us at the landing, and we proceeded up the steep stairway to the sailor’s memorial, a metal sculpture of an albatross. Albatrosses are believed to carry the souls of lost sailors. Soon after landing, the wind picked up to cyclone strength, making the ship return more hazardous, but we did it...and we got the ‘been there done that’ stamps in the passports.Leggi altro

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