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South America and Antarctica

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Day 32
Friday, March 2, 2018
☀️ 30 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Río de la Plata -34.466936, -58.39134534°28’1” S 58°23’29” W
Passports - yeah
March 2, 2018, Río de la Plata ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
A message from the Australian Embassy advised us that emergency passports were ready and so time to get moving. Booked the bus to Puerto Iguazu, saw the Paraguay Embassy - who advised seeing their consulate in Puerto Iguazu to get visas reissued.Read more
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Day 31
Thursday, March 1, 2018
☀️ 29 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Argentina Canal Emilio Mitre -34.489098, -58.39514934°29’21” S 58°23’43” W
Buenos Aires holding pattern
March 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Basically another day in Buenos Aires, and more city art.
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Day 30
Wednesday, February 28, 2018
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 45 m
Argentina Plaza San Martín -34.592888, -58.38008134°35’34” S 58°22’48” W
Wednesday in BA
February 28, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
The bank ordered an emergency Mastercard which arrived in the morning, and the travel insurance was in contact to see that things were progressing.

Buenos Aires and Argentina, 99.99% of the people are kind and honest, we just struck the 0.01% arseholes at the wrong time.

To be honest, South America was never a priority to see in our minds, but we were glad we chose to visit. Despite the hiccup, it really is beautiful, and the difference in cultures is amazing. The kids have really been taking in the art galleries. They loved the more traditional classic works, whilst Dave was blown away by the surrealists...especially Argentine surrealist, Xul Solar.

With some down time in the afternoon, Dave took in MALBA, the museum of modern art.Read more
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Day 29
Tuesday, February 27, 2018
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 45 m
Argentina Plaza San Martín -34.592883, -58.38005934°35’34” S 58°22’48” W
Tuesday in BA
February 27, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
A big day at the Australian Embassy, paperwork, passport photos, then finally back to the hotel to rest. Finally we could begin to relax a little.
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Day 28
Monday, February 26, 2018
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 45 m
Argentina Plaza San Martín -34.592892, -58.38005834°35’34” S 58°22’48” W
Monday in BA
February 26, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
We are staying an extra few days in Buenos Aires to organise emergency passports. Monday was spent getting things organised, emergency credit card, insurance case report, and off to the Australian Embassy for their assistance. This is when you know your taxes actually work. The staff were so kind and helpful. Credit to them. We laughed at the library in the Australian Embassy, books from the 50s, 60s and 70's on all aspects of Australian life...talk about cultural cringe. Dave especially liked the books on fun outdoor Australian pursuits, right next to a book of famous Australian crocodile attacks and several books on venomous Australian animals. Barry Humphries could not write this stuff.Read more
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Day 27
Sunday, February 25, 2018 at 10:16 PM
🌙 22 °C
Altitude: 49 m
Argentina Plaza San Martín -34.591825, -58.3798534°35’31” S 58°22’47” W
Lost passports
February 25, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Sunday we were meant to be heading to Iguazu Falls, but at the bus station, whilst Msafiti was watching the bags, he was targeted by a gang who stole our bag containing money, passports and IDs. So Zawadi initiated a police report, and we settled back into Buenos Aires for an extra few days to organise emergency passports and file further reports.Read more
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Day 26
Saturday, February 24, 2018 at 5:57 PM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 38 m
Argentina Plaza del Congreso -34.608097, -58.39354334°36’29” S 58°23’37” W
Politics, Culture and Tango
February 24, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Again a late start in Buenos Aires, which seems to go with the territory. No one really starts to get out and about until 11 am. Most museums do not open until midday.

So off to the Evita Museum, Eva Perón, the First Lady of Argentina who, in her short life of 33 years, achieved women’s suffrage and social reform on an immense scale. She refused to take the role of previous First Ladies, a step behind their husbands and in the shadows. She was the impetus of change. The museum is quite an emotional walk through her life and the legacy she left.

Then a solid lunch at about 4 pm, as is the wont here in Latin America.

Finally, after a rest until early evening, off the the Plaza Dorrego, and tango in the streets. Whilst many tourists may be whisked off to tango shows in theatres, Plaza Dorrego is free, and you get to enjoy the tango, all for a small donation as the hat gets passed around. The evening was perfect weather wise, and the lights cast an inviting glow on the cobblestone streets and the old tram tracks.Read more
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Day 25
Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:53 PM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 38 m
Argentina Plaza del Congreso -34.608154, -58.39353234°36’29” S 58°23’37” W
Art, Architecture and Food
February 23, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
After a pleasant breakfast including good coffee, a plan was made to head to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (the national art gallery). We were surprised by the extent of works, particularly dating back centuries. Add to that a few treasures such as Picasso and Pollock. There was an exhibition of Rodin sculptures as well (Rodin? Thinker about it).

We jumped in a taxi, possibly finding the only aficionado of Australian rock bands of the 80s and 90s in Argentina. His playlist included extensive back catalogs of Midnight Oil, the Saints, Hunters and Collectors, Painters and Dockers, and the Divinyls to name a few.

The blend of architecture and art in Buenos Aires just adds to its charm, and there is still quite a bit of political art about. Trees abound, despite narrow streets and terraces, as do parks. And in an almost Parisian style, extremely wide avenues dissect the boroughs of the city. Buenos Aires comes across as a very liveable city, even if the internet is still a bit dodgy.

We wandered around some plazas (parks) and spent some time talking to and listening to local indigenous chap play ‘House of the Rising Sun’ and other rock classics on the panpipes. His name was Pacha Abya Yala, and he was delighted to meet two members of the Waanyi nation. He described some of the 24 major tribes that once inhabited the region.

After a late - late - lunch of magnificent Argentinos beef, it was time to head back to the hotel and rest.Read more
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Day 24
Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 11:19 AM
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 37 m
Argentina Facultad de Ciencias Economicas, Universidad de Buenos Aires -34.596455, -58.40119234°35’47” S 58°24’4” W
North to Buenos Aires
February 22, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
After three weeks in the south, time to head north to the warmer climate. The flight was delayed nearly three hours, but we are used to that. Unlike the American family on the flight as well, they are not seasoned travellers, and they thought a connecting flight within an hour of landing would save them having to wait around Buenos Aires. Wrong!

Anyway, a chance to have some lunch. Last night we enjoyed some Argentinos beef...again. The food in Argentina seems more adventurous and flavoursome than Chile, but the cheese is all American. Oh well, cannot have everything.

Interestingly, there are a lot of Malvinas - Argentina signs about in the south...border crossings, road signs. Seems the Faukland Islands are still a moot point. In 1976, Argentina tried to seize three islands from Chile in the Beagle Passage in Tierra del Fuego by suggesting they were more east than south, and so that gave them permission to take them. The International Court in London said no, the islands belonged to Chile. Fast forward two years and Argentina still did not want to accept the judgement, so they decided to seize them. Chile and Argentina were facing off across the Beagle Passage, ready to go to war, when seven hours before the deadline, the Pope decreed the islands indeed belonged to Chile...and in South America, the Pope’s word is infallible. War averted.

Anyway, we landed in Buenos Aires, and booked in for three nights. Hardly any restaurants open here until 8 pm, then stay open till the wee hours of the morning.Read more
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Day 23
Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:03 AM
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 261 m
Argentina Perito Moreno Glacier -50.467895, -73.03278950°28’4” S 73°1’58” W
El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier
February 21, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
The Perito Moreno Glacier is impressive. Whilst you would think we were glacier-ed out after the Antarctic, this glacier is huge, one of the largest in the world, and continually calving. Whilst waiting for the bus back to El Calafate, we were lucky enough to see a local coyote, slightly lighter and smaller than the Midwest USA type.Read more
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Day 22
Tuesday, February 20, 2018 at 4:56 PM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 267 m
Argentina Cancha Carrera -51.248192, -72.25830851°14’53” S 72°15’30” W
Chile to Argentina
February 20, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
After three weeks we traveled to Argentina. Stamp out from Chile, stamp into Argentina. The countryside reminded Dave a lot of the outback, with extensive plains of just bare grazing land. Then on the last leg in to El Calafate...the outback on steroids! Unbelievable coming off the high plains down to the riverine plains. Huemel - or South Andean deer - everywhere.Read more
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Day 21
Monday, February 19, 2018
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 43 m
Chile Puerto Natales -51.728725, -72.48811351°43’43” S 72°29’17” W
Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales
February 19, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Finally with Punta Arenas behind us, time to start moving north and Puerto Natales. We decided again to break the trip to El Calafate in to two sections, rather than sit for over 9 hours in a bus...comfortable as they are. So to Puerto Natales, gateway to Torres del Paine and Patagonia. We have finally left the Antarctic region of Chile and heading to the tropics.

Along the way we saw plenty of rheas, which like their emu counterparts in Australia, leave the child rearing to the males. Merino were also evident on the cold savannah, with the rheas hanging around the flocks.Read more
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Day 20
Sunday, February 18, 2018 at 2:03 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Chile Rada Punta Arenas -53.164322, -70.91151353°9’52” S 70°54’41” W
Downtime in Punta
February 18, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
A chance to rest up for a day in Punta Arenas before we again head north to Argentina.
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Day 19
Saturday, February 17, 2018
⛅ 9 °C
Altitude: 9 m
Chile Seno Lauta -54.938841, -67.63022354°56’20” S 67°37’49” W
Back in Chile - Puerto Williams
February 17, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
After mooring off Puerto Williams overnight, it was time to return to shore. After a hearty breakfast and clearance by customs, we had the morning in town before flying out to Punta Arenas, and all the farewells as the expeditioners went their various ways.Read more
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Day 18
Friday, February 16, 2018
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 30 m
Chile Punta Espolón -55.963676, -67.22102455°57’49” S 67°13’16” W
Day 2 of Drake's Passage and Cape Horn
February 16, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
We arrived at the cape around lunchtime, and met the Chilean ship pilot whose job it was to guide us through the Beagle Channel. Because we were slightly ahead of schedule, a landing at Cape Horn was achievable, as the wind had died down to less than a few knots. The lighthouse keeper and his two daughters met us at the landing, and we proceeded up the steep stairway to the sailor’s memorial, a metal sculpture of an albatross. Albatrosses are believed to carry the souls of lost sailors. Soon after landing, the wind picked up to cyclone strength, making the ship return more hazardous, but we did it...and we got the ‘been there done that’ stamps in the passports.Read more
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Day 17
Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 8:17 AM
🌧 19 °C
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -59.382717, -61.95222659°22’58” S 61°57’8” W
Day 1 crossing Drake's Passage
February 15, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
The swell was about 4 metres today but many are down for the count. A good time to begin transferring photos and getting items in order ahead of the disembarkment on the 17th.
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Day 16
Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 6:26 AM
⛅ 2 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Antarctica Leopardo, islote -64.342163, -62.85861264°20’32” S 62°51’31” W
Dallmann Bay, whales and polar plunges
February 14, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C
The afternoon was an opportunity to watch for whales and with a calm moment and sunshine, time for a polar plunge. Seventeen passengers (including Dave) braved the elements to jump from the safety of the 4th deck in to the 2° water. 80 year old Barbara was the first in. The reward for those who braved the plunge was a T-shirt and certificate confirming ours insanity.Read more
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Day 16
Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 6:25 AM
☁️ 0 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Antarctica Tombstone Hill -64.817787, -63.50927764°49’4” S 63°30’33” W
Port Lockroy
February 14, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C
Port Lockroy was our last landing in Antarctica and a chance for some retail therapy and post cards to everyone from the Penguin post office. We also received the coveted ‘Antarctica - been there done that’ stamp in our passports. Port Lockroy is operated by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (of which we are members). Gentoo Penguin chicks abounded, as did the ‘eau de guano’ and sheathbill chicks were nested under the front verandah.Read more
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Day 15
Tuesday, February 13, 2018
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Antarctica Orne Islands -64.659011, -62.63186464°39’32” S 62°37’55” W
Cuverville Island and a BBQ
February 13, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Our second last day ashore Antarctica, gentoo penguins, fur seals, and that evening a BBQ on the back of the boat. IAATO guidelines are strict when it comes to food, you are not permitted to take food ashore, so the back of the ship was the venue. When the penguins in the distance were sick of the music, a scent of guano drifted in on the changing wind...coincidence?Read more
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Day 15
Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 8:08 AM
☀️ 28 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Antarctica Inútil, Islotes -64.891091, -62.9088664°53’28” S 62°54’32” W
Paradise Bay
February 13, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
A stunning morning with water like glass meant that the expedition could see some spectacular scenery. The divers saw jellyfish which lit up like LEDs. The kayakers had minke whales surface only metres from them. The name said it all.Read more
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Day 14
Monday, February 12, 2018 at 4:21 PM
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -66.33929, -66.78535166°20’21” S 66°47’7” W
Fish Island
February 12, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
A chance to visit more penguins and seals. A beautiful location where we could also observe mosses and lichens native to the region.
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Day 13
Sunday, February 11, 2018
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -66.756362, -66.88178366°45’23” S 66°52’54” W
Detaille Island
February 11, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Detaille Island was the southern most point of our trip. We had hoped to travel slightly further, but the pack ice had moved in and rather than risk being stuck in the ice, the ship’s captain made the call to turn around at that point. We had, after all achieved the crossing of the Polar Circle.Read more
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Day 13
Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 10:14 AM
⛅ -1 °C
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -66.106742, -66.06730966°6’24” S 66°4’2” W
Across the Antarctic Circle
February 11, 2018, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C
This is what the expedition was all about, the ability to say we had crossed the Polar Circle. The ship’s horn blew as we crossed latitude 66°33’47.0”S. Cook’s oath was taken by all promising to protect the Antarctic, and an ‘O’ stamped on our foreheads.Read more
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Day 12
Saturday, February 10, 2018
☁️ -1 °C
Altitude: 178 m
Antarctica Billie Peak -64.76361, -63.37033764°45’49” S 63°22’13” W
Lemaire Channel
February 10, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C
The afternoon saw the expedition pass through the Lemaire Channel, which is about 500 metres wide and encompassed by sheer glaciers and cliffs. Very scenic, and peaceful, even with a slight breeze.
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Day 12
Saturday, February 10, 2018
☁️ 0 °C
Antarctica Wilhelm Archipelago -65.133749, -64.01987665°8’1” S 64°1’12” W
Port Charcot and iceberg formations
February 10, 2018 in Antarctica ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C
Wow! What can you say? We saw the most amazing icebergs, as if the ice carving giants had been active the night before. AND we got to land on an iceberg. ‘Black Ice’ (glacial ice) was gathered for drinks that night. It is true what they say, glacial ice is like no ice you have had before.Read more
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