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South America and Antarctica
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South America and Antarctica

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    Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales

    19 Februari 2018, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Finally with Punta Arenas behind us, time to start moving north and Puerto Natales. We decided again to break the trip to El Calafate in to two sections, rather than sit for over 9 hours in a bus...comfortable as they are. So to Puerto Natales, gateway to Torres del Paine and Patagonia. We have finally left the Antarctic region of Chile and heading to the tropics.

    Along the way we saw plenty of rheas, which like their emu counterparts in Australia, leave the child rearing to the males. Merino were also evident on the cold savannah, with the rheas hanging around the flocks.    Baca lagi

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaPengembara
    Leaving Chile
    A curious fox at the borderBorder post ArgentinaArgentinaMuffy in El CalafateNearly at El CalafateNearly at El CalafateLook what we found in the bus terminalHuemel

    Chile to Argentina

    20 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After three weeks we traveled to Argentina. Stamp out from Chile, stamp into Argentina. The countryside reminded Dave a lot of the outback, with extensive plains of just bare grazing land. Then on the last leg in to El Calafate...the outback on steroids! Unbelievable coming off the high plains down to the riverine plains. Huemel - or South Andean deer - everywhere.Baca lagi

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    North to Buenos Aires

    22 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After three weeks in the south, time to head north to the warmer climate. The flight was delayed nearly three hours, but we are used to that. Unlike the American family on the flight as well, they are not seasoned travellers, and they thought a connecting flight within an hour of landing would save them having to wait around Buenos Aires. Wrong!

    Anyway, a chance to have some lunch. Last night we enjoyed some Argentinos beef...again. The food in Argentina seems more adventurous and flavoursome than Chile, but the cheese is all American. Oh well, cannot have everything.

    Interestingly, there are a lot of Malvinas - Argentina signs about in the south...border crossings, road signs. Seems the Faukland Islands are still a moot point. In 1976, Argentina tried to seize three islands from Chile in the Beagle Passage in Tierra del Fuego by suggesting they were more east than south, and so that gave them permission to take them. The International Court in London said no, the islands belonged to Chile. Fast forward two years and Argentina still did not want to accept the judgement, so they decided to seize them. Chile and Argentina were facing off across the Beagle Passage, ready to go to war, when seven hours before the deadline, the Pope decreed the islands indeed belonged to Chile...and in South America, the Pope’s word is infallible. War averted.

    Anyway, we landed in Buenos Aires, and booked in for three nights. Hardly any restaurants open here until 8 pm, then stay open till the wee hours of the morning.    Baca lagi

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    Art, Architecture and Food

    23 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a pleasant breakfast including good coffee, a plan was made to head to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (the national art gallery). We were surprised by the extent of works, particularly dating back centuries. Add to that a few treasures such as Picasso and Pollock. There was an exhibition of Rodin sculptures as well (Rodin? Thinker about it).

    We jumped in a taxi, possibly finding the only aficionado of Australian rock bands of the 80s and 90s in Argentina. His playlist included extensive back catalogs of Midnight Oil, the Saints, Hunters and Collectors, Painters and Dockers, and the Divinyls to name a few.

    The blend of architecture and art in Buenos Aires just adds to its charm, and there is still quite a bit of political art about. Trees abound, despite narrow streets and terraces, as do parks. And in an almost Parisian style, extremely wide avenues dissect the boroughs of the city. Buenos Aires comes across as a very liveable city, even if the internet is still a bit dodgy.

    We wandered around some plazas (parks) and spent some time talking to and listening to local indigenous chap play ‘House of the Rising Sun’ and other rock classics on the panpipes. His name was Pacha Abya Yala, and he was delighted to meet two members of the Waanyi nation. He described some of the 24 major tribes that once inhabited the region.

    After a late - late - lunch of magnificent Argentinos beef, it was time to head back to the hotel and rest.    Baca lagi

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    Eva Peron
    The Museo EvitaLocal street artAnother wonderful lunch

    Politics, Culture and Tango

    24 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Again a late start in Buenos Aires, which seems to go with the territory. No one really starts to get out and about until 11 am. Most museums do not open until midday.

    So off to the Evita Museum, Eva Perón, the First Lady of Argentina who, in her short life of 33 years, achieved women’s suffrage and social reform on an immense scale. She refused to take the role of previous First Ladies, a step behind their husbands and in the shadows. She was the impetus of change. The museum is quite an emotional walk through her life and the legacy she left.

    Then a solid lunch at about 4 pm, as is the wont here in Latin America.

    Finally, after a rest until early evening, off the the Plaza Dorrego, and tango in the streets. Whilst many tourists may be whisked off to tango shows in theatres, Plaza Dorrego is free, and you get to enjoy the tango, all for a small donation as the hat gets passed around. The evening was perfect weather wise, and the lights cast an inviting glow on the cobblestone streets and the old tram tracks.    Baca lagi

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    Lost passports

    25 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Sunday we were meant to be heading to Iguazu Falls, but at the bus station, whilst Msafiti was watching the bags, he was targeted by a gang who stole our bag containing money, passports and IDs. So Zawadi initiated a police report, and we settled back into Buenos Aires for an extra few days to organise emergency passports and file further reports.Baca lagi

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  • MasaSouth America and AntarcticaPengembara

    Monday in BA

    26 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We are staying an extra few days in Buenos Aires to organise emergency passports. Monday was spent getting things organised, emergency credit card, insurance case report, and off to the Australian Embassy for their assistance. This is when you know your taxes actually work. The staff were so kind and helpful. Credit to them. We laughed at the library in the Australian Embassy, books from the 50s, 60s and 70's on all aspects of Australian life...talk about cultural cringe. Dave especially liked the books on fun outdoor Australian pursuits, right next to a book of famous Australian crocodile attacks and several books on venomous Australian animals. Barry Humphries could not write this stuff.Baca lagi

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    An interesting horse shit sculpture

    Wednesday in BA

    28 Februari 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The bank ordered an emergency Mastercard which arrived in the morning, and the travel insurance was in contact to see that things were progressing.

    Buenos Aires and Argentina, 99.99% of the people are kind and honest, we just struck the 0.01% arseholes at the wrong time.

    To be honest, South America was never a priority to see in our minds, but we were glad we chose to visit. Despite the hiccup, it really is beautiful, and the difference in cultures is amazing. The kids have really been taking in the art galleries. They loved the more traditional classic works, whilst Dave was blown away by the surrealists...especially Argentine surrealist, Xul Solar.

    With some down time in the afternoon, Dave took in MALBA, the museum of modern art.    Baca lagi

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    Onwards to Iguazu Falls

    3 Mac 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Finally we left Buenos Aires on the overnight bus to Puerto Iguazu. We booked ‘cama’ class, which is effectively like business class on the bus.

    For most of the journey, it was open plains and massive rivers being navigated by ships.

    With dinner served, it was time to sleep and wake the next day to find ourselves in tropical forest.    Baca lagi

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    Iguazu Falls

    5 Mac 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    What else could we say, incredible, massive, 217 falls all told, with water flowing over at rates we could only imagine in Australia.

    The wildlife was absolutely gorgeous, although the coatis were quite brazen. Despite graphic signs with images of severed hands caused by these little creatures, people still fed them...or the coatis would raid your meal by jumping up on the table in a daylight snatch and grab.

    The butterflies were astounding, and landed all over us.

    The parque was worth the travel up from Buenos Aires.    Baca lagi

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    Change of plan

    6 Mac 2018, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After visiting the Paraguayan Consulate, the only option to enter Paraguay was to purchase another visa. Given the cost, it was decided we would head back south to Concordia and enter Uruguay.

    That meant another overnight bus trip, and booking a flight to Lima from Montevideo on the weekend.

    Puerto Iguazu gave us a taste of the jungle, and a visit to Biocentro allowed us a close up look at more native animals, especially snakes, which we adore, and local crocs and gators.

    Then on to the bus and southwards.    Baca lagi

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    Personæ non gratæ no longer

    7 Mac 2018, Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After an overnight bus trip, we arrived in Concordia, and caught a taxi to Uruguay. Finally, at the border, exit and entry stamps were in our passports, and we were able to move internationally once again.

    We booked into a hotel about 8 km from Salto, in a quiet little community where there are thermal pools. A bit less humid than the previous days, and the local policeman rides around on horseback. Salto is, after all, gauchos territory, and they are proud of it.    Baca lagi

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    Go southeast to Montevideo

    8 Mac 2018, Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    So with the change of the plan, we traveled southeast to Montevideo and the Atlantic Ocean.

    The western and inner (gauchos) parts of Uruguay are primarily agricultural, and Australian eucalypts are everywhere. In fact, apart from driving on the opposite side of the road, one could be forgiven for thinking that this was rural Australia.

    Cattle and horses dominate the landscape, and given the gauchos supposedly originated here, there is a mythical appearance of people going on horse rides, as if to reconnect with the past. Also,as many of the properties are smaller than Australian farms, and the availability of ready labour, horses are a logical choice.    Baca lagi

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    Montevideo

    9 Mac 2018, Uruguay ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Montevideo is a bit of an unknown place for Australians to visit, but we were glad we did. It has a far more laid back feeling to Buenos Aires, and without the major high rise. People seem more conservative in their dress, yet the society is more tolerant of minorities, especially the gay community.

    In many ways it felt like a Uruguayan version of Melbourne.

    We visited the Museum of Historic Art (Muhar), and viewed numerous Aztec artworks, along with antiquities such as an Egyptian mummy.    Baca lagi

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    Lima, Peru

    11 Mac 2018, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What a contrast. We arrived from Uruguay Sunday morning, and found that Sunday was the day that all the locals descend on the ‘centro’. The city was alive!

    There was entertainment everywhere in the streets, as well as the ceremonial changing of the guard at the presidential palace, and markets everywhere.

    Dave and Zawadi went for a long walk around the city, and toured the historic Basilica de Lima, including its catacombs.

    Lima seems to have police for everything, and there are always riot police and water canons around the central city. Kalashnikov semi automatic rifles are held by every second policeman. Despite their tough appearance, they were incredibly approachable. Lima also has official money changers in the streets, who charge one Peruvian Sol commission (or 40c). The government have put a lot of effort into providing a safe and pleasant experience for the traveller.    Baca lagi

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