Isle of Muck

Today would be one of the highlights of our entire trip - a visit to the tiny island of Muck. One of the Small Isles, it offered us a safe haven from the southerly winds that were building and that would strike with gale force the next day (as would the skipper's mood). A glorious days sail, with Richard at the helm for much of time, we arrived to clear skies and a light wind. The nearby island of Eigg impressed with its sheer cliffs. Heading ashore with a packed lunch and skip in our steps, we ventured out towards the local seal colony, providing at least one inquisitive fellow with a seal's-eye view as we sat munching our sandwiches. Satiated, we decided to follow the track to the village of Fort Mor and the promise of a proper coffee. With no limits on where you can walk, we've really enjoyed the freedom that comes with tramping in Scotland. Mind you, it was fortuitous that our skipper mentioned that tracks drawn on our map were not well marked. It was more the case of walking across fields in the general direction of where you think you should be heading. The absence of virtually any vegetation above a metre helps too!

The village offered passable coffee and a lovely view. A recently established fish farm is providing hope for the dwindling population and several new buildings had been constructed in keeping with the more traditional style. The sense of remoteness pervaded, especially as we followed the path to an ancient fort perched above the dramatic coastline. The sheer beauty of this rural wilderness, the colours and shapes, took our breath away. Rugged cliffs provided a training ground for diving crows. Reminders of past cultures appeared in the form of crudely carved stones amongst more contemporary graves. We felt this was a truly special place.Read more