Reset search
Of haggis and herrings
  • Ngaire Phillips
  • Richard Gorman

Of haggis and herrings

A record of our adventures in the wilds of Scotland and beyond. Read more
FollowInsightsCalendarShareShareBucket list
Newest first
  • Trip start
    August 5, 2017
  • Of haggis and herrings

    On being English

    August 6, 2017 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After almost 34 hours travel and little sleep it was a relief to arrive at Heathrow and escape the confines of our aeroplane, even if it was just for 3 hours. Our hoped-for shower failed to materialise and instead we queued - no E-passports here! E-baggage checkin - yes, but then the long queue to actually get said baggage onto baggage conveyor belt. Security - more queues and extra checking - "Sorry sir but your laptop was hidden under your pack. We'll need to scan it again. Oh and we'll need to scan your backpack again. Oh and we'll need to scan you toiletries bag again. Oh and we'll need to check the whole lot for explosives".

    Accepting our smelly fate, we headed to the bar. My mind might have been saying "Ngaire it's not even 9am!" but my body was on beer o'clock time. As we sat drinking our warm beer and crisps it occurred to me that, despite New Zealand being full of English people, things seemed somehow different when coming across them in the home country. They're so...English!    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Rural patchwork
    Fortrose ManorDerelict buildingStreet art from the 2014 Commonwealth GamesAnother derelict building or a restoraton project?

    Glasgow at last

    August 6, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The cityscape soon gave way to a patchwork of greens and browns as we headed north on the final leg our our journey. We were surprised when the hostess asked if we'd like a glass of wine and an antipasto platter. Seems Richard had inadvertently booked business class! Oh well - it was a lovely treat after the trials and tribulations of cattle class.

    Glasgow airport was a welcome relief after the madness of Heathrow and we were soon on our way to Fortrose Manor - our home for the next 4 days. After a quick meet and greet with our delightful hostess Christine and a most welcome shower, we succumbed to sleep. We'd planned to start re-setting our biological clocks by waking at 5pm, but said alarm was soon silenced and 8 hours later we woke to a surprising light evening sky.

    A quick supper of homemade bread and strawberry jam (part of our sumptious breakfast table), washed down with a cup of tea (of course) and it was off out for an evening stroll along the quiet streets. By chance we'd booked our BNB in a quiet leafy suburb near the 500 year old University of Glasgow. The area is characterised by multi-storey apartment buildings, no doubt 100s of years old. Always a treat for us colonials with our modern histories. The rain that had greeted our arrival returned, so we high-tailed back to our cosy abode. Sleep beckoned once again.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Sunlight Cottages
    Stewart Memorial FountainThe CloistersUniversity of GlasgowRules for pipingHerbaceous border

    Kelvingrove Park and surrounds

    August 7, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Despite our best efforts to catch up on sleep, our bodies reminded us that jet lag is a physiological process - the balance of serotonin and melatonin needs to be re-set. In other words, we still woke early. With hours to fill before our first museum visit, we set off to explore the nearby Kelvingrove Park. Established in the mid 1800s, the park is commonly recognised as the first purpose-designed and constructed park in Scotland. It offered an alternative playground for the middle class to Glasgow Green, which at that time was "unashamably working class".

    Using one of the many useful brochures provided by our AirBNB host, we followed the heritage trail through the park. Of particular note were the Sunlight Cottages, which are representatives of early 20th century philanthropic model housing erected by Lever Brothers Limited for their workers at Port Sunlight, near Liverpool. These lovely ornate cottages are quite a contrast from our state houses!

    Varous statues dot the pathway, amongst them William Thomson or Lord Kelvin (of the Kelvin temperature scale). Apparently he started university at the age of 10, was a Professor of Natural Philosophy (Physics) by 21 and published over 600 papers. Talk about over-acheiver!

    The University of Glasgow sits on a hill overlooking the park, with sweeping views of the city beyond. The compact main campus combines impressive old buildings with more modern architecture. At more than 550 years old, it's no surprise that some very well known academics have graced these halls.

    A brief respite from the light rain came in the form of coffee and delicious scones in the former Queen's Room, overlooking the very pretty herbaceous border. Replenished, we made our way to the rather majestic Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and my first glimpse at the wonderful works of Charles Rennie Mackintosh.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Ceiling detail
    Grand lightsSpitfireContemporary art workThe Druids - Bringing the MistletoeHaggis - the mythical creature

    Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery

    August 7, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Scotland's "most popular" gallery certainly lived up to its label, with a wonderful selection of artworks and museum pieces available for all to see, free of charge. Housed in a beautiful stone building, both Scottish and international artists are well-represented. We were impressed by the diversity of works presented - everything from a full-size Spitfire to Dali's Christ of St. John of the Cross (though the latter was on loan). We also enjoyed the creative way in which works were presented, with many examples of interactive and/or thought-provoking curation. I especially enjoyed some of the works by the "Glasgow Boys", an informal grouping of some 20 artists who flourished in the later 1800s and early 1900s. "The Druids - Bringing the Mistletoe" by George Henry and EA Horne evoked memories of Klimnt's "Beethoven Frieze", with its depth of colour and ethereal atmosphere. Amongst the Scottish wildlife section we discovered the elusive haggis. Some believe it to be a small creature with shorter legs on one side of its body so it can run around hills more easily!

    To our delight a Mrs Whippy van greeted us as we departed the museum . I discovered a local delicacy - scallop cones - scallop-shaped cones filled with icecream and lashings of raspberry sauce. Yum! Finishing our treats we headed off in search of The Tall Ship - a restored Victorian sailing ship now marine museum located on the Clyde River. Or at least that's where we thought we were headed.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Riverside Museum
    1Cars of all ages on displayCreative cycle displaySteam-powered carFunky motorcycle display1Delightful Sunbeam motobike and sidecar

    Riverside Museum

    August 7, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Glasgow is located on the north bank of the River Clyde and was once the centre of a major ship building industry. Indeed, the city was an industrial giant until the 1970s. The Riverside Museum is a dramatic zinc-panelled building housing an impressive array of transport-related exhibits. It's crammed full of trains, trams, cars, bikes and a myriad of other transportation modes (including an impressive skateboard collection), representing different phases in the development of Glasgow. It was truly impressive and somewhat overwhelming, especially for two somewhat jet-lagged folk who'd already spent the morning at Kelvingrove! Much more than simply a collection of old vehicles, the displays provided insight into the social impact of transport on the city.

    Adjacent to this museum is the Tall Ship, a maritime museum based on a restored Victorian sailing vessel. We'd seen the tall masts of this ship from our BNB - indeed this is what prompted our visit to the Riverside Museum. However, exhausted after 2 museums and our walk in the park we headed home, succumbing to jet-lagged fueled sleep. Somewhat rested we headed out to the rather oddly named (but highly recommended) Roastit Bubbly Jocks restaurant - our first proper dinner of the trip (bread and jam had been more than adequate up till now). A wondeful meal of guinea fowl, washed down with a lovely Spanish red, all overseen by a delightful host. Definitely worth a revisit.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    The Wassail
    Ladies Luncheon RoomPanel from Ladies Luncheon Room1O Ye, all Ye that Walk in Willowwood, 1902Chinese Room from the Ingram Street Tea RoomsLamp detail from Chinese Room

    Charles Rennie Mackintosh

    August 8, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    For me, Glasgow means Charles Rennie Makintosh, Scotland's celebrated architect and designer, who became a leading figure in the Art Nouveau movement in the late 19th/early 20th century. His work is immediately recognisable with its fluidity of form and simplicity of line. He was well known for his treatment of a room as a complete "work of art". Much of his work was an artistic collaboration with his wife Margaret Macdonald. He took inspiration from Scottish traditions and blended them with the flourish of Art Nouveau and the simplicity of Japanese forms. There are still excellent examples of his work throughout Glasgow, not only in museums, but also whole buildings (such as the Willow Tea Rooms, Glasgow School of Art, Queens Cross Church and Hill House). The next few entries will highlight some of our key Mackintosh experiences.

    Our first introduction to Mackintosh was at the Kelvingrove Museum, where a large collection of works by key names in the Glasgow Style are exhibited. Amongst them are Margaret Macdonald's stunning gesso panels "The Wassail", which were made for the Ladies Luncheon Room at Miss Cranston's Ingham StreetTea Room. Tea rooms were all the rage during this period and Miss Kate Cranston was an early proponent and leading entrepreneur. The panels depict the pagan fertility ceremony of wassailing, which aimed to promote a successful fruit crop. Another beautiful gesso panel "O Ye, All ye that walk in the Willowwood" was created for the Salon de Lux in the Willow Tea Rooms. Also on display was a setting from the Chinese Room (also known as the Blue Room), again from the Ingham Street Tea Rooms. This brief introduction to the work of Mackintosh and Macdonald set the scene for the remainder of our Glasgow exploration.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Hallway
    Living roomMain bedroomMain and smaller bedroomDesign detailsBeautiful garden and exterior

    Hill House

    August 8, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    It is simply not possible to capture the beauty of this house with 6 photos (which is all I can load with the free version of this travel blog site), but I recently discovered how to do collages! Hill House was absolutely stunning. The house was commissioned by Glasgow publisher Walter Blackie and completed by Macinktosh in 1902/1903. With his wife Margaret Macdonald, he designed both interior and exterior. Every detail contributes to the overall aesthetic, creating a sense of harmony. The mix of light and dark worked beautifully and there was a general air of tranquility. Every room was a work of art. The attention to detail was awe-inspiring. There were a couple of rooms where the owner had requested that Mackintosh incorporate his own, more traditional furniture. The contrast with Mackintosh's style was stark and highlighted his forward thinking. The gardens are also very beautiful, though it seems Mackintosh had little involvement in their design. Despite the popularity of this tourist attraction we managed to avoid major crowds, which added to a very memorable experience for us.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Exterior detail
    Dining room and hall wayHallway and lamp detailsPiano in music roomMusic room with panel detailDesign examples

    House for an Art Lover

    August 9, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This was a house that Mackintosh never built. He and his wife Margaret Macdonald submitted a portfolio of designs to a competition run by a German design magazine. The competition brief was to design a 'grand house in a thoroughly modern style' and challenged artists to develop ideas which were fresh and innovative. In 1998 a crazy Brit decided to take the designs and try to build what Mackintosh envisaged. This was quite a challenge as the designs were in many cases limited in specific detail. Making Mackintosh's concept become a reality provided a challenge and learning process for many contemporary artists and crafts people. What really appealed to us about this house was that it had been designed without the constraints that were evident in Mackintosh's earlier works, where the desires of the house owner needed to be considered in the design (such as Hill House). The House for an Art Lover really allowed us to experience the incredible creativity of both Mackintosh and his wife. The music room in particular, with it's ornate piano and almost fantastical design features, was a real stand out for us. We were very glad we'd made the effort to get to this out-of-the-way tribute to Mackintosh.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Exterior view
    Beautiful Blue Heart window in chancelThe pulpit appears to grow out of the floorLovely examples of simple use of colour and lightDesign detailsMakintosh chairs (beautifully reproduced)

    Queens Cross Church

    August 9, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Queen's Cross Church was one of Mackintosh's earliest buildings and indeed he was a trainee architect at the time. Commissioned by the Free Church of St Matthew, simplicity in design was necessary (in keeping with their beliefs). What Mackintosh produced was indeed simple but highly sophisticated in form. His trademark organic forms and limited colour palette were evident even at this early stage in his career. We were highly impressed by the excellent condition of the church and it's contents, thanks largely to the efforts of the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society. This was one of the last Mackintosh sites we visited, but the earliest in terms of his career, and it was interesting to consider how his style had developed from this early example.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Streetscape
    Festival goersLeith walkwaySculptures at Museum of Modern ArtFavourites from the Museum of Modern Art

    Edinburgh

    August 10, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Edinburgh is like a grand old lady, with its beautiful wide streets lined with magnificent Georgian apartment buildings. Green spaces abound, creating a sense of peace and quiet. Even the excesses of the Edinburgh Festival couldn't quell the quiet appeal of this city. It was easy to avoid the crowds, especially as our B & B was some distance from the major attractions. The Scottish Museum of Modern Art, near the pretty Dean Village, was a particular favourite, accessed along an equally enjoyable leafy path that followed the Leith River. The festival itself was a bit overwhelming - so much choice and so many people. We managed to catch Kiwi theatre group Trick of the Light with their wonderful "The Road that wasn't there", as part of the Fringe Festival. And our pre-booked tickets to the 1950's classic play "Rhinoceros" were well worth the money. Performed in the beautiful Lyceum Theatre ,the apparent simplicity of the costumes and props belied the complexity of the unfolding story - ultimately about whether to follow the crowd (and become a rhinoceros) or celebrate difference. The Edinburgh Tattoo also features as part of the festival - we were fortunate to experience this impressive spectacle. And of course one cannot visit Edinburgh without taking in the imposing castle. Both of these are captured in subsequent posts.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Various castle buildings
    The Great HallThe Royal PalaceReinactment of prisoners quarters in the castle 1700sStained glass windows St Margaret's ChapelThe castle at night

    Edinburgh Castle

    August 11, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The great rock on which Edinburgh Castle is sited has been occupied for at least 3000 years, its position offering a natural defence against unwanted visitors. Edinburgh was a royal centre by 1093 and has always been seen as a place of military strength. Its structures have been rased to the ground on numerous occasions, only to rise again as new occupants make their mark. The layering of cultures and societies that have made the castle their home is evident in the many excellent displays presented throughout the castle complex. As expected, the castle was over-run with tourists, so we resigned ourselves to a day of queuing in the drizzle (and sometimes downpour) that has thus far characterised the Scottish summer for us.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings

    Edinburgh Tatoo

    August 12, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Spectacular is a bit of an understatement for this fabulous event. Now in its 68th year, we joined 8000 people to watch more than 1200 pipe and drum band members, dancers and musicians from around the globe strut their stuff on the Edinburgh Castle esplanade. By comparison, the first Tattoo attracted a total 6000 spectators. It had poured during the day and we'd half expected the performance to be cancelled. Amazingly the skies cleared and the moon shone through. In fact not a single performance of the Tattoo has ever been cancelled! The castle walls provided the perfect backdrop for the amazing projections that added to the splendour of the performances. A truly magical experience.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Oban sunshine
    Lovely house and garden ObanIvan is a popular sailing areaWaiting for our yacht at DunstaffsageSaltwater Gypsy - our home for the next 5 nights

    Sailing into the unknown

    August 13, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Our first week in Scotland focused on a taste of what Glasgow and Edinburgh had to offer. As we boarded our train for the coastal town of Oban, our thoughts turned to the week ahead, which we would spend on board the 42 foot yacht Saltwater Gypsy, with skipper David and 2 further guests. At least that's what we thought! Our arrival in Oban was greeted with briliant sunshine and hordes of tourists enjoying this pretty seaside village, gateway to the inner and outer Hebrides Islands. With a wait of 4 hours until the appointed meeting time we decided to store our bags and stretch our legs. With bellies full of local fish and chips we headed to Dunstaffsage marina and awaited our host. David arrived at the appointed time, only to inform us that we were his only guests, that this was his second to last cruise before his retirement and that the weather forecast meant we would only be able to sail to one or two of the many islands that dot this yachties playground. Somewhat disappointed and slightly apprehensive at the thought of a week alone with this rather gruff Scotsman (with a confusingly English accent), we boarded the yacht for a night on the mooring. David laid down the rules (essential on a boat) and we settled in for a pleasant evening.Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Saltwater Gypsy at anchor
    Someone's summer cottageReflectionsLate summer flowersVaried landscapesSeaweed

    It's an ill wind that blows no good

    August 14, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Setting sail in light rain, we headed for the isolated Dorlin Bay, a pretty mainland bay opposite the limestone-dominated region of Lismore. A lack of wind meant our first venture out into island waters was under motor. Making way along the Sound of Mull, before too long we were settled into our anchorage for the night. Grey seals wallowed on the rocky shore, the occasional body twist or fin flick the only evidence that these were anything more than sausage shaped rocks (at least from a distance). As we approached their resting place, dark eyes viewed us warily.

    Heading ashore for a walk in the now sunny evening skies my so-I-discovered non-waterproof tramping shoes were soon taking on water in the moist and often swampy undergrowth. Unfortunately a misinderstanding about the need for waterproof shoes meant I was ill-equipped for island walking. I was to spend the next 4 days walking on water! Vestiges of past lives greeted us as we made our way along the coastline, the shores awash in the orange glow of tide-stranded seaweed. Several species of heather and other wildflowers painted the hills various hues of pink and yellow. Aside from oyster catchers and seagulls, our only fauna sightings were of a dead mole and dead shrew, both apparently drowned in the heavy downpour. As we settled in for the evening the tone of the voyage started to reveal itself - that of a self-absorbed skipper with little interest in his guests, who's single-mindedness would taint our experience and make us relish the end of the journey. But not before we visited the beautiful island of Muck.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    New stones amongst the old
    1Sailing the ocean blueOld shed at Fort MorDramatic cliffs and old fort (lower)Colourful rock poolsEigg in the distance (upper)

    Isle of Muck

    August 15, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Today would be one of the highlights of our entire trip - a visit to the tiny island of Muck. One of the Small Isles, it offered us a safe haven from the southerly winds that were building and that would strike with gale force the next day (as would the skipper's mood). A glorious days sail, with Richard at the helm for much of time, we arrived to clear skies and a light wind. The nearby island of Eigg impressed with its sheer cliffs. Heading ashore with a packed lunch and skip in our steps, we ventured out towards the local seal colony, providing at least one inquisitive fellow with a seal's-eye view as we sat munching our sandwiches. Satiated, we decided to follow the track to the village of Fort Mor and the promise of a proper coffee. With no limits on where you can walk, we've really enjoyed the freedom that comes with tramping in Scotland. Mind you, it was fortuitous that our skipper mentioned that tracks drawn on our map were not well marked. It was more the case of walking across fields in the general direction of where you think you should be heading. The absence of virtually any vegetation above a metre helps too!

    The village offered passable coffee and a lovely view. A recently established fish farm is providing hope for the dwindling population and several new buildings had been constructed in keeping with the more traditional style. The sense of remoteness pervaded, especially as we followed the path to an ancient fort perched above the dramatic coastline. The sheer beauty of this rural wilderness, the colours and shapes, took our breath away. Rugged cliffs provided a training ground for diving crows. Reminders of past cultures appeared in the form of crudely carved stones amongst more contemporary graves. We felt this was a truly special place.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    A picture paints a thousand words
    Impressive castleLocal residentA typical Scottish village houseMorning reflections

    Sailing blues

    August 18, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The gale force 7 winds arrived with a fury earlier than predicted and we were forced to battle our way towards the island of Mull. Our anticipated 3 hour sail turned into a marathon as we waged war against large seas, torrential rain and a bad-tempered skipper. Abandoning our planned anchorage we pulled into the nearest safe harbour and waited. An altercation with the skipper left us feeling fragile and confused. Clearly he'd missed the customer service part of his skipper training.

    After a 2 hour delay as the skipper replaced fan belts, we set off for what would be our last days sail. Thursday's weather forecast promised little more than Wednesday, but the protection offered within the Sound of Mull made for much improved sailing conditions all round. We escaped ashore once anchored in the pretty harbour of Port Aline. A long walk through the local arboretum and a visit to the impressive Archimedes screw powering a local hydro scheme proved restorative. White-washed houses glistened in the bright sunshine, recent rains adding to the spectre. A pint at the local and it was back on board for a tasty meal (at least skipper was an excellent cook).

    More inclement weather forecast limited our anchorage options next day and the skipper announced we'd be heading back to the marina for our last night on board. With little option for further exploration of the islands we decided to cut our losses and head back a day early. I managed to bring our car hire and accommodation forward a day so we could end this somewhat disappointing phase of our Scottish holiday.

    Arriving back in Glasgow some hours later, we drowned our sorrows in several glasses of red wine and reflected on the beauty of the Western isles and how wonderful it was sail to amongst them. And of course our Highland adventure was about to begin!    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    The Kelpies
    Falkirk WheelCanal boatsCunrossLaundry Cottage and surroundsRough Castle

    Heading north

    August 19, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Departing Glasgow in our zippy Fiat 500 we decided to head north east towards Stirling, en route to a cottage just out of Glenmoriston, where we'd spend the next 5 nights amongst the glens, lochs and munros of the Scottish Highlands.

    First stop was the truly impressive Falkirk Wheel, an elegant rotating boat lift which gently swings boats between the Forth and Clyde canals, lifting boats to a height of 35m (equivalent to 11 traditional boat locks), all in just 15 minutes. Also impressive were 2m high metallic sculptures of horses heads, which we were soon to discover were mere models of the real things. We chanced upon "The Kelpies" , fantastic 30m high horse head sculptures, which overlook significant new developments in Scotland's all-important canal system. Horses have traditionally played a significant role in the region, drawing barges of coal, iron ore and goods from regional centres to key industrial cities such as Glasgow and Edinburgh.

    Taking a considerable step back in time we then explored Rough Castle, where part of the Antonine Wall is highly visible amongst the vestiges of this Roman fort. Built around AD140, when Romans invaded Scotland (for the second time), the 60km long earth rampart wall and associated ditches and forts aimed to keep the locals out of what was considered Roman territory.

    As usual we'd planned too much into our day and after a quick wander around the beautifully preserved town of Culross, we headed towards our cottage via the pretty Trossachs region and the utterly awe-inspiring Glencoe area. The cloud and drizzle that had characterised much of our time in Scotland was a perfect complement to the craggy peaks and tumbling waters. Settled into our cosy cottage we made a plan of attack for the next few days. So much to see and so little time!    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Invermorrisey brdge
    The Bridge of Oich posterThe Bridge of OichNeptunes staircase (apparently)Malaig boats

    A day of false starts (& a happy ending)

    August 20, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Not wanting to venture too far, we'd set our sights on a visit to nearby Fort Augustus and possibly a Nessie hunt on the loch. Alas, Sunday proved a popular day with the locals (especially on that rare day when the sun is actually shining), so this tiny town was bursting at the seams and not a car park within cooee.

    A change of plans - to the coastal port of Mallaig via a promised scenic route (the "Road to Isles" tour). After passing through some pretty ordinary towns, (although the Bridge of Oich was interesting), a quick stop at the less-than-impressive Neptunes staircase (OK so it was an engineering marvel of mutliple locks and might have looked better with flowing water), the "scenic" drive finally kicked in just before the Glennfinnian monument. Commemorating those who rose in support of Bonnie Prince Charlie in the 1745 Jacobite rebellion, nevertheless he clearly hadn't planned for parking and once again we by-passed this bursting-at-the seams tourist attraction as we made our way west.

    The traffic thinned, the mountains grew more and more imposing - it was easy to imagine the challenges that would have faced settlers and explorers alike in this mountainous region. Arriving at the pretty port of Malaig (gateway to a number of the western islands), we briefly contemplated the ferry to the Isle of Skye as a loop route home, only to discover said ferry was fully booked. Undaunted, we fortified ourselves with ice cream and retraced our path, intent on a less populace region on the morrow.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    StrathpefferKnockan CragBone cavesUllapool

    A road (or two) less travelled

    August 21, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I've always wanted to visit Scotland. Blame it on my Scottish godmother. Or perhaps it's simply that I like wild places and had envisaged Scotland's western and northern coasts to fit that category. While Scotland is a relatively small country, as in New Zealand it takes longer to drive anywhere than you expect. This is partly due to it's narrow, winding roads, but equally the result of its awe-inspiring scenery - it's not a place to experience at pace.

    I'd read of the scenic route to Ullapool in the north-west, and beyond, a path we considered would be less travelled than those of the previous few days. We were not disappointed. First stop was the beautiful village of Stathpeffer, a former Victorian spa town where folk had come to "take the waters". A mix of Victorian splendour and Pictish history, we spent a pleasant hour or so exploring this lovely place.

    Arriving at the pretty white-washed town of Ullapool, we discovered that a true treasure lay just to the north of gateway to the island of Lewis. The North-West Highlands Geopark was awarded to the region based on it's unique and turbulent geological past, which has shaped its stunning mountain landscapes, sandy beaches, ancient settlements and contemporary communities. A well-marked route highlights the geological stories behind the stunning landscape.

    One such highlight was Knockan Crag, location of some of the oldest rocks in the world and one of the most significant scientific discoveries in recent times. An excellent interactive display combines with awe-inspiring views to tell the the story of how two men challenged the 19th century scientific norms of the time with their theories of geological processes. Knockan Crag provided the proof for their theory.

    Another highlight of the Geo Park route was an excursion to the Bone Caves, where remains of some of of Scotland's "lost animals" (bears, wolves, reindeer) were found.

    Intent on reaching the lighthouse at Stoer Point before we turned for home, we reached this remote point after mile after after mile of narrow, single lane tracks through stunning coastal heathland. Our adventurous return trip (amazing where a wrong turn can take you) meant a late dinner was to be had.

    A hugely satisfying day amongst these most beautiful surroundings.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Eilean Donna Castle
    Castle detailsHighland cattleBealach Na Ba viewpointEn route Wester Ross

    Wild, wild west

    August 22, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Our last day in the Highlands. A choice between another day amongst the stunning mountains travelling through the eastern Cairngorms region or a wild west adventure following rugged coastlines and ancient mountain formations. We chose the latter and headed off in the direction of the Wester Ross route. This region includes some of the oldest mountains on earth (Torridonian rock is more than 600 million years old).

    Passing through the majestic Glen Shiel region, we soon found ourselves in sight of the breath-takingly beautiful Eilean Donan castle. Touted as Scotland's most romantic castle, it's easy to see why it has gained this reputation. Built at the confluence of 3 lochs, it provided a strategic vantage point for its numerous occupants. A stronghold for the Jacobites (mainly Catholic Highlanders), it was destroyed on 1719 by English warships. Restoration in the 19th century by a couple of highly passionate locals resulted in the amazing displays today.

    Much of the rest of the day was spent negotiating the many single-lane roads that follow the western coastline and traverse the mountain ranges linking meadowed valleys. One spectacular mountain pass was Bealach Na Ba. Apparently featured on an episode of Top Gear, our little Fiat ably traversed the many twists and turns along this precipitous route. The view at the top was well worth the sometimes hair-raising experience, with marsh-covered mountain tops and spectacular ocean views.

    Tiny villages nestled amongst the many coastal inlets dotted our route. Naturally, a sampling of the local ice cream was a must. It's hard to imagine making a living in such a small community, but it seemed to us that many were managing just fine in their little slice of paradise. Indeed, our contribution to the local economy continued with the purchase of some locally caught and smoked ocean trout - a simple an easy dinner after a long day on the road.

    No visit to the Highlands is complete without an up-close-and-personal experience with the local cuties - Highland cattle. These large hairy beasts are quite content to munch roadside verges as yet another tourist snaps away.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Portree buildings
    Port of PortreeMuseum of Island LifeCute "castle"Kilt Rock and waterfall

    Isle of Skye

    August 23, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The largest of the Inner Hebrides, Skye is easily reached via a bridge linking Kyle of Lochailsh and Kyleakin. Rugged coastlines and soaring mountain ranges provide for varied and dramatic scenery. While mostly a driving tour, we squeezed in several thought-provoking experiences that provided insight into the harsh realities that folk faced in the 18th century.

    First up however was a brief coastal walk and coffee stop (nice cafe view bit terrible scones) in the "metropolis" of Portree. Prettilly coloured shops and residences lined the small wharf, matched by equally colourful fishing boats.

    Heading north the ruins of abandoned crofts (farm houses) dotted the landscape, vestiges of the "Clearances" of the 18th century. From at least the 12th Century, Highland society was divided into tribal groups led by autocratic chiefs, with clan membership signified by the wearing of chequered cloth (tartan). All clan members bore the name of their chief but were not necessarily related by blood. The chiefs role was to protect the land for all clan members i.e. he didn't actually own it. After the Battle of Culloden (1746), all clan lands were forfeited to the Crown and the wearing of tartan was banned for almost a century (and punishable by death). During the hey-day of the Clan system, tenants paid their land-holding chieftains rent in the form of military service. With the destruction of the Clan system, landowners demanded a financial rent, which their tenants couldn't afford. Many became destitute. The land was gradually bought up by Sottish lowland and English farmers. In what became known as "the year of the sheep" (1792), thousands of tenants were evicted to make way for sheep. Many emigrated to Australia, Canada and America (and no doubt New Zealand). We would also see the results of these Clearances on the Orkney and Shetland Islands.

    An excellent record of crofting life on the Isle of Skye can be found in the Skye Museum of Island Life. A group of enthusiastic islanders created this impressive collection of 19th buildings and other artefacts to ensure that the stories and experiences that have contributed to modern society are not lost. Every facet of island life at the time is captured and presented in an informative and creative way.

    Our circuit continued along stunning coastlines, almost bereft of human occupation. Heading inland was equally awe-inspiring, with the Old Man of Storr rising above us to a height of 49m. A brief photo stop at Kilt Rock and the beautiful nearby waterfall (along with a multitude of others) and it was time to head home.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    1Pretty railway stations enroute
    Beautiful old Dutch sailing shipScrabster boatsHolborn Head LighthouseAmazing cliffsLocal residents

    Heading north (again)

    August 24, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    A short drive to Inverness, a brief farewell to our trusty Fiat 500 and before long we were settled into our train seats and looking forward to our northerly travels. With every mile that passed the mountains receded and gave way to vast open fields. A succession of prettily painted railway stations passed in a blurr. Arriving at Thurso after our 4 hour journey, a quick taxi ride took us to the Scrabster Ferry Inn, where we would spend the night before boarding our ship to the Orkney Islands.

    With no expectation of anything more than a pub meal and a stroll around the port, we were pleasantly surprised to find that this tiny fishing village offered hillside walks, spectacular scenery, an unusual lighthouse, a rich fishing history on display and a fabulous sustainablity-oriented restaurant. Of course there was also a pub (it's called the Frerry Inn for a reason). On top of that, it was a gloriously sunny afternoon - a real bonus in what had been an otherwise mixed weather bag for us in Scotland.

    After settling in to our more-than-adequate room, we ventured out, chancing upon an impressive old Dutch sailing vessel, which just happened to be in port. Colourful fishing boats filled the marina, their bright colours reflected in the still, clear waters. Eider ducks glided silently, dipping occasionally to feed amongst the seaweed and kelp that clung to the near-shore rocks.

    A brisk walk took us past Holborn Lighthouse- an interesting design with the assistant Lighthouse keeper's house incorporated into the lighthouse design (the Lighthouse Keeper having the fancier abode next door). Up and over the hill, through sheep paddocks till it seemed like we'd reach the tip of Scotland, where craggy cliffs provided homes to fulmars, their perky Puffin mates having departed only a few weeks earlier. The dramatic coastline offered a glimpse of the not-too-far-off Orkney Islands.

    Our final night on the Scottish mainland deserved a celebratory dinner and the Captain's Table offered exactly that. Housed in a restored ice house, their slow food philosophy suited our frame of mind. Coupled with amazing food and a delightful hostess, we wobbled home after a 3 course meal (with wine matches) and slept soundly till our alarm announced the arrival of the next phase in our adventure.    Read more

  • Of haggis and herrings
    Ring of Brodgar
    Old Man of HoyCuween burial chamberStanding Stones of StennessBarnOrkney countryside

    Heart of Neolithic Orkney

    August 25, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Not only mainland Scotland but its northernmost isles have been on my list of places to visit. Being only an hour and a half by ferry from Scrabster (on the mainland), the Orkney Islands are readily accessible, even for a day trip. Comprised of around 70 islands, less than a third are occupied by Orkney's 21,500 inhabitants. Our rather grand ferry took us past the Old Man of Hoy, a 137m vertical stack of the west coast of the island of Hoy, apparently popular with rock climbers (presumably when the weathers a bit finer!).

    With only 2 and a half days to explore, we deferred exploration of the pretty town of Stromness, instead heading straight to Orkney's capital Kirkwall, where we would pick up our hire car and settle into our B and B. In contrast to our previous few days amongst the beautiful Scottish Highlands, Orkney's agricultural expanses were somewhat of a culture shock. However, we weren't there for the scenery. The Orkney archipelago boasts the densest concentration of archaeological sites in Britain, and this would be the focus of our exploration.

    After settling in to our B and B, we easily navigated our way to the car hire venue, only to be met by a rather dour Scottish woman. Having exhausted all other car hire options, I had booked with this company, knowing that we'd only have the car for just over a day. "We're not open on Sunday" she reiterated and "No you can't drop the vehicle and keys off - I have to check the vehicle myself when you return it". Deciding against paying an extra £40 for 4 hours, we opted to return the car 24 hours later, hoping to locate another vehicle for the remainder of our trip.

    What this meant was that we then spent the next 10 hours trying to squeeze in as many of the neolithic attractions as we could. Luckily many are a relatively short distance from Kirkwall and before long we'd come across Cunween Hill Chambered cairn. Perched well above the surrounding farms, this 5000 year old communal burial chamber was used for generations and then seemingly abandoned. Feeling as if we were in the Great Race, we dashed to the hugely impressive Standing Stones of Stenness, giant monoliths that tower above their surroundings, their circular arrangement perplexing generations of archaeologists. A nearby pre-historic Barnhouse Village gave us a prelude to the Stone Age village of Skara Brae (which we would visit later that evening). The equally impressive Ring of Brodgar rose hauntingly in the setting sun. Along with the Maeshowe burial mound, these Neolithic remains comprise the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, declared a World Heritage site in 1999. While this collective name is a modern idea, the area was clearly an important place in the past.

    Driving further north and coastward, the single lane roads were largely devoid of traffic. The local horses offered a short respite, as did a walk along the beach at Marwick Head, Kitchener's Memorial reminding us of the loss of the HMS Hampshire (and Minister of War Lord Kitchener) to a mine off the coast in 1916.

    Despite our best efforts, we failed to find dinner in the sparsely populated north. Arriving back in the "metropolis" of Kirkwall after 9pm proved equally challenging! Luckily a friendly "local" (ex-South African Enzo) guided us to a passable curry house. Satiated, we finally collapsed into our bed, wondering what the morrow would bring.    Read more

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice