• Rainbow Mountains

    25. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Danxia National Geopark is a relatively recent addition to the tourist trail in this part of China. Apparently known to the locals for years, the area was promoted through a Chinese action film in the early 2000s. The spectacular scenery has since attracted national and international attention.

    It truly is a beautiful place. It's just a pity the Chinese authorities who created the impressive visitor facilities saw fit to install speakers everywhere. The constant advertisements and elevator music detracted from any thoughts of communing with nature and was a reminder of what we had observed elsewhere - the need for constant noise.

    We visited the mountains in late afternoon and then again early morning. Sun rise over the mountains is apparently quite spectacular when the sky is clear. Unfortunately the cloud persisted and the colours were muted; nonetheless it was still worth the effort of the early morning, even if just to avoid the crowds and the music! The sound of the wind was a symphony by comparison.
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  • Zhangye

    24. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our first sleeper train proved to be more comfortable and and a lot more fun than I'd expected. With 6 of us crammed into a tiny space, cooperation and some basic acrobatics were required. With no curtains we presented something of a curiosity show to fellow passengers seated in the narrow hallway during dinner and breakfast.

    Zhangye is a "small" city of about 1.5 million people. Once an important stopover on the Silk Road, one of its main claims to fame now is that the Dafo Si (a Buddhist Temple) houses the largest reclining Buddha in China. At 34 m long this large clay fellow is breathtaking (unfortunately we weren't allowed to photograph it). While at first appearances it may seem he's simply having a rest, we were to find out later that this pose indicates that he has "gone to paradise" or "reached nirvana". Which basically means he died.

    Various other buildings form the temple complex, all set in beautiful gardens. An impressive display of translations of Buddhist text (originally in sanskrit) brought to China by Buddhist monks, included intricate woodcuts prints and even some of the original wood cut blocks.

    Also of interest was a large stupa, which is basically a Buddhist shrine where relics of some sort may be kept. It provides a place of worship.

    The local markets are great places to observe the shifts in climate and culture that are slowly revealing themselves as we travel along the Silk Road. Fresh and dried fruits, fabulous fungi, eggs - black, white, blue and spotted, even yak meat. Which makes for wonderful (and rather large) meals!

    Zhangye's other attraction is Danxia Geological Park, known more colloquially as Rainbow Mountains. But I'll save that for another day.
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  • Terracotta Army

    22. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Aside from it being the official "start" of the Silk Road, Xi'an is perhaps best known as the access point for the fabulous Terracotta Army. Discovered in 1974 by farmers digging a well, an army of life-size clay figures guards the tomb of Qin Shi Huangdi, the despotic ruler who unified China over 2200 years ago. Obsessed with his own death, the Emperor began to build his mausoleum soon after he ascended to the throne at the age of 13. He wanted to ensure he was well protected in his after life - hence the army and associated resources. The project involved over 700,000 people and continued until his death at age 49. We were told that his poor treatment of those tasked with building his army resulted in the subsequent destruction of much of the work by the same group after his death! However, other stories have also been suggested to explain the damaged state of the warriors when found. Regardless, what we now see is the result of painstaking reconstruction of 1000s of damaged figures.

    Over 7000 soldiers, archers and horses have so far been excavated from 3 pits. Each pit appears to serve a different function, with the infantry in pit 1, cavalry and soldiers in pit 2 and high ranking officers in the third pit (so presumably a command centre). Each warrior, originally coloured with pigment and holding a weapon, has an individually crafted expression. Exposure to air destroyed the coloured pigment. Interestingly, the actual tomb of the Emperor has not been excavated, largely because of high mercury levels that have been detected.

    Walking into pit 1, we were greeted by the sight of 1000s of clay soldiers, separated by head high clay walls. Horses, with carriage drivers some distance behind, appeared ready for work. The wooden carriages were long lost to the elements, but the impressions of carriage wheels remained. The individuality of the warriors is very evident - even the hair styles vary.

    Work continues on the restoration of the figures and it's possible to see the process in a action at the "hospital". The figures are carefully glued together, wrapped with rope and plastic wap to maintain the form and then air dried.

    Following yet another large and tasty meal at a local restaurant, we headed to another less visited mausoleum - the tomb of the Han Emperor Jing. Entirely underground, this too containers terracotta figures, but are smaller, simpler and less individualistic. Apparently there are more than 50000 terracotta figures depicting daily life for the emporer everything from chickens to eunuchs. An excellent museum provided better viewing of the artifacts than the excavation site itself, which is barely lit to ensure longevity of the site contents.

    After all that education a bit of light entertainment was called for, namely a Chinese dance and music show. Definitely worth seeing once....
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  • Silk Road beginnings

    21. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We arrived in Xi'an by bullet train - reaching speeds of just over 300km/hr meant the trip took a mere 5 hours. A bustling metropolis of 10 million, high rise apartments dominate the skyline outside of the city's 12m high wall. Inside, more modest towers reflect height restrictions. Built in 1370, the rammed earth wall forms a 14km perimeter around the city centre. It's possible to walk or cycle this wall, something we did on our last morning.

    The city served as capital to 11 dynasties over a period of 4000 years. It peaked during the Tang dynasty because of its position at the eastern end of the Silk Road. Xi'an can therefore be considered as the beginning of the Silk Road (from the eastern end).

    After settling in to our modest hotel we headed out to explore the city. First stop was the Muslim Quarter, a wonderful collection of narrow lanes, with stalls selling an array of local foods plus various paraphernalia. As the name suggests, this is the hub of the Muslim community in Xi'an. and the nearby Great Mosque is one of the largest in China.

    Our guide William insisted on taking us to a "hot pot" restaurant- apparently the best in the country. In his usual style he not only ensured we had the best table, but organized a birthday cake and special bowl of noodles for Les (one of the tour group). What a hoot! Said birthday cake arrives on a trolley with music blaring and a pretty young thing holding a neon sign with happy birthday in English and Chinese! On top of all of that, we each left with a plastic back scratcher as a gift. Memorable to say the least.

    Our walk home took in the beautiful lights of the central city Bell Tower and the street lanterns.
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  • Tian'an Men Square

    20. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    No visit to Beijing would be complete without a visit to Tian'an Men Square. For me, the abiding association will be with the student protests and the subsequent massacre of 1989. Somewhat ironically the square's full name (Tian'an Men Guangchang) means Square of the Gate of Heavenly Peace. With Mao's mausoleum as the focal point, the Square is bordered by 1950s Communist-style buildings and ancient gates from Beijing's now flattened city walls.

    Lunch beckoned. With so much choice, we'd discovered that looks can be deceiving. Randomly choosing a pretty run-down looking restaurant, we soon realised we'd stumbled upon one with a Muslim Chinese menu. Fabulous dumplings and spring onion bread, washed down with a local beer. The individually plastic-wrapped crockery sets reflected the seemingly utmost reliance on plastic that we'd seen here since our arrival. It's very very difficult to imagine China getting rid of single use plastic bags but I can imagine the HUGE difference it would make.

    While it's possible to visit the Great Hall of the People (seat of the Chinese legislature) and the China National Museum that flank the square, we opted instead to visit Zhengyan Men - one of the 2 gates, which now houses a museum on Beijing's history. Following a rather fortuitous path controlled by seemingly teenage soldiers, we finally arrived at our destination, only to discover it was closed Mondays!

    Rendezvouing with the rest of our group that evening, we were delighted to meet another Kiwi, 4 Australians and a Scottish couple. And of course our tour guide William who, we would learn as the night progressed, enjoys his food and the odd drink!

    The next stage of our adventure was about to begin.
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  • Temple of Heaven

    19. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Next on the to-do list was Tian Tan or the Temple of Heaven. This highly symbolic complex of buildings served as the place where the Emperor, as the Son of Heaven, could intercede with the gods. On behalf of his people, the Emperor would make sacrifices and pray to heaven and his ancestors at the winter solstice.

    Set amongst cypress groves and flower gardens, practitioners of Tai chi and other more gentle forms of exercise congregate here, presenting quite the spectacle for passersby.

    From animal sacrifice pavilions to halls of prayer and sacrificial altars, every detail is highly symbolic. Blue represents the colour of heaven, dragon and Phoenix motifs represent the Emperor and Empress, the circular roof symbolizes the sky. And of course red is an imperial colour. As we'd noted from our visit to the Forbidden City, the job of an Emperor is complex and full of ritual. Who would have thought he'd need a separate building complex just to fast prior to sacrifices?

    Also part of this complex was the Divine Musuc Administration, a building housing an impressive array of Chinese musical instruments. From clay Xun (a bit like an ocarina) to magnificent Sen (horizontal string instrument) to humungous lugu (multi-sided drums), this exhibition provided a wonderful demonstration of Chinese musical history. It was well worth the extra 10 yuan (about $2.20).

    After a bit of a rest we headed out for a last meal before joining our tour group the next evening. By chance we chose a highly popular local restaurant hidden amongst the hutong - Dali's Courtyard. What a meal! A set menu of western Chinese cuisine- every one a treat for our tastebuds. At the equivalent of $100, this was expensive by local standards but worth every penny.
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  • Forbidden City

    18. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    With only 4 full days in Beijing and trying to recover lost sleep, we decided to limit our sightseeing to the "essentials". Beijing's Forbidden City or Palace Museum as it is known, forms the very heart of the city. The symbolic centre of the Chinese Universe, it was home to 24 emperors who ruled for nearly 500 years. It's considered China's most magnificent architectural complex.

    By now we were used to the jostling and queue jumping that is natural behaviour but were still pleased we'd booked tickets online and so avoided the queues. The complex consists of a series of gates leading to huge courtyards, which in turn lead us to various palaces and associated structures. This is an extremely simplistic description and even photographs don't do justice to the grand scale of this complex (but the video might help).

    Our impressions were many and varied. The attention to detail - beautifully carved marble, ornate fittings, colorful ceilings and facades, the list goes on. The symbolism - of structures, colors, shapes, words - everything reflected the role of the Emperor as the conduit to God. Indeed the names of the palaces and associated buildings gave us a pretty good idea of how he spent his days - which seemed to mostly be thinking, reading, writing, preparing for and undertaking sacrifices, and of course meeting lots of dignitaries. Amongst my favourite was the Studio of Exhaustion for Diligent Service.

    Unfortunately we failed to read the recommendation to bring our own food. After 5 gruelling hours and only an ice cream, we were ready to escape!
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  • First impressions

    17. Mai 2019 in China ⋅ 🌫 29 °C

    Although only a 13 hour flight, a lack of sleep and a long day meant we arrived in Beijing feeling less than refreshed. Despite our exhaustion, we managed to squeeze in a few hours of exploration, discovering the delights of this city of 20 million. Tree- lined, rubbish-free streets. Human, electric and petrol-powered vehicles threatening pedestrians. Tiny shops offering everything from kittens to sex toys. Curious glances, cautious smiles. Fabulous music (and beer). Sophistication and simplicity. Poverty and prosperity. A city of contrasts. It's easy to forget we are in a communist country, though the boyish soldiers and aged community security guards hint at what lies beneath.Weiterlesen

  • Homeward bound

    3. September 2017 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Making the most of our final few hours in this beautiful country, we explored a bit more of the West coast as we made our way to back to Reykjavik.

    Landing in London, Richard and I parted ways, with him heading to London and Liverpool and then on to Washington for 3 months on sabbatical, while I made the long journey home. But it would only be a matter of weeks before I joined him, albeit for a short stay. But that's another story.Weiterlesen

  • Heading West - Drangsnes

    2. September 2017 in Island ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Leaving our delightful campsite at Grenivik we continued our westward journey. Rain had set in, but that didn't dampen our spirits. With little traffic, stunning scenery and a toasty warm camper, we couldn't have asked for more, although it did feel a little like we were in the Amazing Race! Time was marching on.

    Travelling through Akureyri we were surprised to see heart-shaped red traffic lights! Apparently the hearts appeared as a consequence of the finance crash in Iceland in year 2008, when there was a need for some positive thinking and to put emphasis on what really matters.

    The Heimilisiðnaðarsafnið Textile Museum was unfortunately closed, but a wire sheep gave us a prelude of what was ahead of us. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere (actually I think it was) we happened upon a flock of super cute and friendly Icelandic sheep.

    As we continued our journey west the rain set in and photo opportunities vanished. We were pleased to arrive at Drangsnes and settle in to our guesthouse. Drangsnes is a small fishing village on the north shore of a large fjord (Steingrímsfjörður) and is known for it's shoreline hot pools, located right in the middle of the village. We ventured out to enjoy this special treat, before heading out for our final dinner in Iceland.
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  • Heading north - Grenivik

    1. September 2017 in Island ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Farewelling Djúpivogur we continued our journey north, weaving our way amongst fjords before turning inland at Fáskrúðsfjörður. The town had been an important fishing outpost for French ships in the late 1800s to early 1900s and it's clear that the Icelandic waters claimed many lives. The Cemetery of French Seamen here is one of many found throughout Iceland.

    As we headed west the terrain changed and we found ourselves in the rather surreal moonscape of the Mývatn region. The area was visited by Apollo astronauts prior to the moon landing and is also a popular movie setting. It was such a contrast from the lush fields, river and waterfalls we'd seen earlier. This area is also home to the Hverir Geothermal Area, with its impressive collection of smoking fumeroles, bubbling mudpools and hissing steam vents (and of course that smell). The colours were fabulous!

    Our guidebook had recommended a side trip to Dettifoss Falls, apparently the second largest most powerful waterfall in Europe (after the Rhines Falls). Certainly impressive though not the prettiest of settings!

    By contrast, the spectacular Godafoss Falls was my pick of the many falls we saw during our brief visit. Easily accessible from the main road, the story goes that the decision was made by parliament's lawspeaker Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi to adopt Christianity for the good of the people. To symbolize his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland and discarded idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall, which would later become known as Godafoss.

    We arrived at the small fishing village of Grenivik and easily found our way to the campground. We had time for a wander through the village, taking in the colourful boats and interesting houses, before settling down to watch a rather impressive cloud-filled sky.
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  • Water, water everywhere - Djúpivogur

    31. August 2017 in Island ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Our first full day in Iceland took us east past majestic peaks, lava fields and glacial lagoons and across rivers depositing black sands, comprised primarily of ash from volcanic eruptions, brought to the coast by glacial floods. Much of our travels today were within and adjacent to the Vatnajökull National Park, which covers 13% of Iceland and which is home to the Vatnajökull Glacier, the largest and most voluminous ice cap in Iceland.

    Leaving Vik we happened upon Laufskálavarða - a lava ridge surrounded by stone cairns, which were apparently created by those crossing the outwash plain of Mýrdalssandur for the first time and purported to bring them good fortune on their journey.

    We took time to explore the fabulous Fjallsjökull Glacier and Lagoon, the latter with a smattering of icebergs. Further on, we were greeted by the more popular (and populated) spectacle of large icebergs dominating the surface of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

    Continuing our travels east, we were constantly wowed by the majestic skyline formed by mountain ridges, with the wild coastline below. With excellent roads it was easy driving and with plenty of daylight we were able to reach our destination of Djúpivogur in time to settle in to our campsite and enjoy a beautiful evening stroll along the estuary. Djúpivogur is a small coastal village in eastern Iceland, nestled by the picturesque fjord of Hamarsfjörður. The landscape around Djúpivogur is overshadowed by Búlandstindur, a pyramid-shaped basalt mountain peaking at 1069m. The mountain is known across Iceland for it’s staggering, almost sculpted beauty. According to local folklore, the mountain is able to grant wishes during the summer solstice and is an ‘energy centre’ for the entire country. The village has a long history of trading (as far back as 1589).
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  • Land of fire and ice

    30. August 2017 in Island ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The final leg of our Scottish journey took us from Lerwick (Shetland Islands) to Aberdeen, where we boarded a flight to Reykjavik (Iceland). We'd planned a 5 day whirlwind trip following the Ring Road that encircles much of the country and which connects most towns and villages. At just over 1300km it's possible to drive in 1 day (if you're keen!).

    Boarding a Grayline bus at the airport, we made our way towards the city and our hire car, with the dramatic lunar-type lava landscape of the Reykjanes Peninsula dominating our views. After familiarising ourselves with the internet, heating and bedding arrangements in our little home-away-from-home we headed eastwards to our first overnight stop (Vik). With fading light we settled for a passing view of the fabulous Skogafoss waterfall and stopped only briefly at a café enroute (at Selfoss) for soup, fish and beer. Arriving at the campground at Vik at 10.30pm proved a rather unpleasant experience, with hoards of tourists, expensive supplies and half-built showers! We were glad to depart early the next morning.
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  • Unst

    29. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    With so many options of where to spend our second and final day on Shetland, we took our hosts' advice and headed to the island of Unst. Britain's most northerly inhabited island has a diverse landscape, from stupendous coastal cliffs to golden beaches, heather-covered hillsides to peat bogs, and even a unique, sub-arctic stony desert. Our target was the Hermaness National Nature Reserve, whose cliffs and moorlands provide breeding grounds for a huge diversity of seabirds.

    We boarded the ferry to the island of Yell, a first step on our journey to Unst. A fellow ferry traveller turned out to be an ex-pat Kiwi from Tauranga, who'd lived on Shetland since the 1990s (his Shetlander parents had migrated to New Zealand when he was a child and he stayed after a visit to family and friends). Not wanting to waste our precious time, we followed the leader to the next ferry boarding, our impressions of Yell based only on the 25 minute journey between ferry terminals. Following the main Unst road north, we climbed higher and higher until reaching the reserve. The information centre was nestled in a stunning fjord, white paint gleaming in the sunlight (finally we had some sunshine!). After perusing the excellent information available we headed into the park. A mix of gravel paths and boardwallks traversed the moorland. As we neared the cliffs, young great skuas or bonxies as they're known here, soared above us, experimenting with new wings in preparation for further travels. Far below us, waves crashed against rugged shorelines - the views were breathtaking. As we made our way further along the path towards the northern most point, we checked periodically for puffins amongst the avian visitors. Unfortunately my desire to see puffins had been unfulfilled to date (and would continue that way), as our visit to Europe had been just a few weeks too late.

    As we neared the end of our path, the island of Muckle Flugga came into view, and beyond it Out Stack, Britain's most northerly point. What better place for a lunch stop! A continuous flow of gannets, guillemots, kittiwakes and the like filled the sky as they made their way to the numerous guano-stained islets that dotted the coastline. What a wonderful way to spend our last day in Scotland.

    With time marching on we re-traced our steps, diverting slightly to take in an alternative viewing point before heading back to the car. Our route back took us past the Unst Boat Haven - a collection of traditional Shetland fishing craft - where we spent a pleasant half hour exploring the history of fishing and boat building with the museum's curator. A brief stop to view a replica Norse longhouse and the Skidbladner, a full-sized replica of the Gokstad ship found in Norway, and then it was onward to Belmont and the ferry to Yell.

    Ensuring our packed bags didn't exceed the Flybe limit of 20kgs we enjoyed a final dinner on Scottish soil.
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  • Shetland Islands

    28. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Scotland's most northerly domain is a bit more of an effort to visit, with the overnight journey between Kirkwall and the Shetland capital Lerwick taking just over 7 hours. After a solid sleep in our relatively spacious cabin, we collected our hire car and headed south. With only 2 days to explore we wanted to make the most of our time. I read somewhere that while Orcadians are crofters (farmers) who fish, Shetland Islanders are fisherfolk who croft. Nowhere in Shetland is more than 5km from the sea, and fishing and salmon farming are the mainstays of the economy, although revenue from the North Sea oil industry has boosted the economy in recent years.

    As we made our way south we were treated to stunning coastlines and rugged landscapes - Shetland is generally more mountainous than Orkney. Our destination was the Jarlshof historic site, which is located near the ariport. So close in fact that the road crosses the runway! What's most amazing about Jarlshof is that it contains the remains of buildings dating from 2500 BC to the 1600s AD. Evidence suggest that it was continuously occupied during that period before being abandoned. Like many of the archaeological sites we've visited, rising seas and coastal erosion has destroyed much of the site. Uncovered by storms in the late 1890s, it's been excavated on a number of occasions to expose a complex arrangement of buildings. Investigations have revealed layer upon layer of habitation, including late Neolithic houses, a Bronze Age village, an Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, a Norse longhouse, a medieval farmstead and a 16th century laird’s house.

    By now we were feeling pretty experienced when it came to these types of buildings, but we were still pretty amazed with the excellent condition of some of the structures at this site. The most impressed attribute of this site really is its complexity - in fact it was a bit overwhelming. Or perhaps it was the wind and the rain.

    Feeling that we'd "done" Jarlshof we popped into the nearby Sumburgh Hotel for a rather ordinary lunch, before making our way north to our self-catering B and B just out of Scalloway. After settling in, it was off for a spot of grocery shopping and a wander around this quiet fishing port. Prettily coloured houses line the quiet, narrow streets. We came upon a memorial to the Shetland Bus (Shetlandsbussene), a wartime resistance movement taking wireless operators, armaments and combatants into Nazi occupied Norway and returning with refugees and resistance operatives during World War II between 1941 and 1945. After Norway was invaded in 1940, as resistance was waning and an Allied response was not fast enough in coming, some 300 vessels departed Norwegian shores with refugees escaping Nazi tyranny by heading west. Some landed in parts as wide-ranging as Iceland and England, but the majority headed for the friendly shores of Shetland. It was apparent that if these small fishing vessels could escape from Norway then the same vessels could return. This was the beginning of the Shetland Bus and more than 20 vessels were chosen to begin these operations, with no shortage of volunteers to undertake the arduous journey. The most favourable conditions for entering occupied Norwegian territory were the darkest, stormiest nights, setting the weather against the small fishing vessels as much as, if not more than, the German forces.There were almost 100 missions in total from Shetland to Norway using these small fishing vessels, which incurred the loss of 10 boats and 44 men through winter weather and German surveillance. It soon became apparent that bigger faster boats would need to be found and these came in the shape of three American sub-chasers, donated to the operation by the American Navy, which undertook a further 115 missions without loss due to their greater speed, size and armament.

    Another major feature of Scalloway is its castle - it dominates the view as you come into the village. Access is by obtaining a key from the local museum, so we figured at 6.30pm we were too late. As it happens another couple turned up with the key, evidently using the castle as a backdrop for fashion photographs, so we were able to wander around. Turns out it was built by the Earl who had also built Earl's Palace in Kirkwall. He had an equally cruel reputation on Shetland as he had on Orkney.

    Heading back to our cottage we came across of group of very friendly Shetland ponies, including one with a bit of an obsession with an old tyre. There's a certain satisfaction is meeting Shetland ponies on the Shetland Islands!
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  • The Westness Mile

    27. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Described as the most important archaeological mile in Scotland, the Westness Mile on Rousay spans settlements from the first Stone Age settlers, the Pictish Iron Age, the Viking invaders, the period of the Earls and the troubled crofting times.

    We started this history walk with the oldest structure - the Midhowe Cairn. The cairn itself is housed within a large modern semi-circular brick building to protect the delicate structures within. Unfortunately the building was closed but we were able to peer through the windows. What an amazing structure! At around 23m in length, the cairn is divided into 12 chambers, each capable of housing numerous burials. Tombs like this were the collective burial places of communities of Neolithic farmers, dating as far back as 3000BC.

    The nearby Midhowe Broch is more recent, built during the Iron Age as a fortified residence during the Iron Age, and occupied from around 200 BC to 200 AD. Located on a cliff overlooking Eynhallow Sound, it's one of at least nine brochs that stand along the banks of the sound. As with the Broch of Gurness and at Skara Brae, internal fittings such as fireplaces and bed chambers were evident. It's incredible to think such structures could stand for so long in what is a very exposed site. What impressed us the most was the huge external buttressing that had been constructed to support the heavy stone walls (which are apparently more than 4m thick).

    Following the path along the coastline we moved forward in time, passing Brough Farm (once one of the most valuable estates in Orkney, dating back to the 1700s, but uninhabited since 1845), the Wirk, a ceremonial hall thought to date from the 1200s and the ruins of St. Mary's Church (1600s) which is built on the site of a medieval church. By this stage we were tiring (time travel is tiring), so we retraced our steps and continued our road trip. A little further on were remnants of crofting communities, victims of the clearances that we had observed in the Scottish Highlands.

    Rousay is more mountainous than its Mainland neighbour and the remainder of our circumnavigation took us along stunning clifftops with spectacular views. With time to spare for an Orkney ice cream, we boarded our Roro ferry once more before heading into Kirkwall for a quick dinner ahead of our 11.00pm Shetland ferry boarding.
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  • Rousay - Egypt of the North

    27. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    With so many options on where to spend our final day on Orkney, we opted for a visit to the nearby island of Rousay. Due to its archaeological diversity and importance it's received the nickname of "Egypt of the North". With a population of 205, it's home to more than 160 archaeological sites - almost 1 per person! As we'd only decided the night before, we had no idea whether there would be space on the small car ferry for our lumbering beast, so we figured we'd just wing it and turn up at the Tingwall jetty. Before long we were making the short journey across the Eynhallow Sound, Richard having expertly backed the Citroen onto the tiny Ro-Ro ferry. After a quick orientation and a browse in the local craft shop, we started along the ring road. Several well-preserved burial cairns are found along this route. Taversoe Tuick is a rare two-storied cairn and is structurally quite complex. The level of preservation was truly impressive. Blackhammer Cairn is thought to date from around 3000 BC. The structure is a stalled cairn, with an interior divided into compartments (stalls) by pairs of upright stone slabs. It has a modern roof and is exposed to light, so algal growth was quite extensive. Further along, the Knowe of Yarso Cairn is situated on a hill overlooking the Eynhallow Sound and must have provided impressive views for mourners. It was another chambered cairn. Apparently when it was excavated in the 1930s they found, along with human bones, remains of red deer, which are longer found on Orkney.

    Lunch beckoned and luckily the Taversoe Tavern was open. With fabulous views over the Eynhallow Sound my Fisherman's Lunch (marine version of a Ploughman's Lunch) proved a fitting meal for such a location.

    Replenished, we headed off in the direction of Midhowe Broch, which we'd seen from the Broch of Gurness only the day before. We were almost starting to feel like locals!
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  • A touch more modern

    26. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    With a couple of hours to spare we decided to wander the streets of Kirkwall. By day a thriving metropolis, after 9pm the streets are pretty much deserted. The town is first mentioned in Orkneyinga saga in the year 1046 when it is recorded as the residence of Rögnvald Brusason the Earl of Orkney, who was killed by his uncle Thorfinn the Mighty. Just love those names!

    We'd bought an Orkney Explorer Pass which gave us access to 7 of the main attractions on Orkney and Shetland Islands. In Kirkwall this included the St Magnus Cathedral and the Bishop and Earl Palaces. The Bishop's Palace is a 12th-century palace built at the same time as the adjacent St Magnus Cathedral. It housed the cathedral's first bishop, William the Old of the Norwegian Catholic church. It looked a lot like a castle.

    The Earl's Palace is a ruined Renaissance-style palace and was built by Patrick, Earl of Orkney, with construction beginning around 1607 and being largely undertaken via forced labour. The palace was built after he decided that the nearby Bishop's Palace didn't suit his needs. He's considered one of the most tyrannical noblemen in Scotland's history. and was eventually executed for treason (along with his son).
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  • Brochs and Broughs

    26. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Through our very helpful B and B hosts we had managed to secure another hire vehicle - a lumbering Citroen Relay van which would do us until our late night ship to Shetland Islands the next day. Prior to pick up however we had a morning to fill and so decided to explore the Broch of Gurness. Brochs are unique to Scotland. There are over 500 of these towers throughout northern and western Scotland and the islands.

    The Broch of Gurness is an Iron Age settlement, one of 6 on the mainland, which faces 5 on the shores of the nearby island of Rousay. Between them lies the shores of Eynhallow Sound, an important navigational route and food source. Before excavation in 1929, Gurness was simply a large, grass-covered mound. Indeed there are yet-to-be-discovered settlements lurking amongst the mounds on Orkney - Orcadians have a bit of a thing about mounds.

    We found that the best way to really get a feel for this site was to walk down what would have been the entrance way (this is more effectively captured by video than photograph). Partially eroded by the sea, the layout of the village is still very evident and if you close you're eyes it's almost possible to imagine the sights, sounds and smells of this productive village.

    Further north lay the Brough of Birsay. Both Brough and Birsay derive from the Norse word borg, meaning fortified place and it's easy to see how this fortified island village would have been an effective barrier to invasion. Accessible only for a couple of hours either side of low tide, this island village shows evidence of Pictish, Norse and medieval occupation. Picts (meaning Painted People) lived in northern Scotland between 300 and 800 AD and were probably descendants of the Iron Age population. They left no written records so little is known about them. We found it difficult to differentiate between buildings from the different periods, which were sometimes built on top of earlier occupations. Either that or perhaps we'd saturation point on the historic front. A long walk to a spectacular lighthouse overlooking an equally spectacular coast line revived our enthusiasm. Sufficient at least for us to head out for a night of traditional Orcadian music at a local pub.
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  • Skara Brae and Maeshowe

    25. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ 🌫 13 °C

    Orkneys' prehistoric sites provide a remarkable insight to ancient civilisations. Amongst the most impressive for us was Skara Brae. Considered by many to be the best preserved Stone Age village in Europe, this amazing collection of still-furnished ancient buildings was uncovered by a storm in 1850. Long before Stonehenge or even the Egyptian pyramids were built, Skara Brae was a thriving village.

    Little is known of the early exploration of the site, as records were not kept, though artefacts were collected by the landowner of the nearby Skaill House. Subsequent investigations have yielded considerable information, and the site continues to be a source of new knowledge on the early history of these islands.

    Visitation of this site is normally limited to peering from above into the various houses that have been partially excavated. We were fortunate to happen upon a twightlight tour, which meant we could enter rooms just as it's inhabitants would have done 4500 years ago. Our informative guide wove a story of life during those times, highlighting artefacts and markings that supported current theories. The individual houses, linked by passages, cluster together, forming a close-knit community. Small doorways open to larger spaces, an effective means for keeping heat in. The same basic layout could be seen in many of the houses - a central hearth, a large "dresser", bed enclosures and limpet boxes (watertight stone boxes sunken into the floor and thought to have been used to soak limpets for fish bait). Being on the coast, seafood would have been an important food source and is well-represented in the numerous middens on site.

    A full size replica house, complete with roof, gave us a very good impression of what it must have been like living in these houses. An equally impressive exhibition provided further insight. This site is so important that Indiana Jones lectured about it (according to our guidebook)!

    Another remarkable site is that of Maeshowe. Considered to be the finest Neolithic building in north-west Europe, this chambered tomb is ingeniously aligned so that its interior is illuminated by the setting of the mid-winter sun. Built around 5000 years ago, humongous stones (upto 3 tonnes) line the walls. It must have required significant community involvement to construct such a sophisticated and complex building in an age before machinery or even metal tools. Abandoned for many centuries, it was rediscovered in the 1100s by the Vikings, who left their mark in the form of graffiti! Indeed, Maeshowe is mentioned in the Orkneyinga Saga (the historical narrative of the history of the Orkney Islands written in the 1200s).
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  • Heart of Neolithic Orkney

    25. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Not only mainland Scotland but its northernmost isles have been on my list of places to visit. Being only an hour and a half by ferry from Scrabster (on the mainland), the Orkney Islands are readily accessible, even for a day trip. Comprised of around 70 islands, less than a third are occupied by Orkney's 21,500 inhabitants. Our rather grand ferry took us past the Old Man of Hoy, a 137m vertical stack of the west coast of the island of Hoy, apparently popular with rock climbers (presumably when the weathers a bit finer!).

    With only 2 and a half days to explore, we deferred exploration of the pretty town of Stromness, instead heading straight to Orkney's capital Kirkwall, where we would pick up our hire car and settle into our B and B. In contrast to our previous few days amongst the beautiful Scottish Highlands, Orkney's agricultural expanses were somewhat of a culture shock. However, we weren't there for the scenery. The Orkney archipelago boasts the densest concentration of archaeological sites in Britain, and this would be the focus of our exploration.

    After settling in to our B and B, we easily navigated our way to the car hire venue, only to be met by a rather dour Scottish woman. Having exhausted all other car hire options, I had booked with this company, knowing that we'd only have the car for just over a day. "We're not open on Sunday" she reiterated and "No you can't drop the vehicle and keys off - I have to check the vehicle myself when you return it". Deciding against paying an extra £40 for 4 hours, we opted to return the car 24 hours later, hoping to locate another vehicle for the remainder of our trip.

    What this meant was that we then spent the next 10 hours trying to squeeze in as many of the neolithic attractions as we could. Luckily many are a relatively short distance from Kirkwall and before long we'd come across Cunween Hill Chambered cairn. Perched well above the surrounding farms, this 5000 year old communal burial chamber was used for generations and then seemingly abandoned. Feeling as if we were in the Great Race, we dashed to the hugely impressive Standing Stones of Stenness, giant monoliths that tower above their surroundings, their circular arrangement perplexing generations of archaeologists. A nearby pre-historic Barnhouse Village gave us a prelude to the Stone Age village of Skara Brae (which we would visit later that evening). The equally impressive Ring of Brodgar rose hauntingly in the setting sun. Along with the Maeshowe burial mound, these Neolithic remains comprise the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, declared a World Heritage site in 1999. While this collective name is a modern idea, the area was clearly an important place in the past.

    Driving further north and coastward, the single lane roads were largely devoid of traffic. The local horses offered a short respite, as did a walk along the beach at Marwick Head, Kitchener's Memorial reminding us of the loss of the HMS Hampshire (and Minister of War Lord Kitchener) to a mine off the coast in 1916.

    Despite our best efforts, we failed to find dinner in the sparsely populated north. Arriving back in the "metropolis" of Kirkwall after 9pm proved equally challenging! Luckily a friendly "local" (ex-South African Enzo) guided us to a passable curry house. Satiated, we finally collapsed into our bed, wondering what the morrow would bring.
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  • Heading north (again)

    24. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    A short drive to Inverness, a brief farewell to our trusty Fiat 500 and before long we were settled into our train seats and looking forward to our northerly travels. With every mile that passed the mountains receded and gave way to vast open fields. A succession of prettily painted railway stations passed in a blurr. Arriving at Thurso after our 4 hour journey, a quick taxi ride took us to the Scrabster Ferry Inn, where we would spend the night before boarding our ship to the Orkney Islands.

    With no expectation of anything more than a pub meal and a stroll around the port, we were pleasantly surprised to find that this tiny fishing village offered hillside walks, spectacular scenery, an unusual lighthouse, a rich fishing history on display and a fabulous sustainablity-oriented restaurant. Of course there was also a pub (it's called the Frerry Inn for a reason). On top of that, it was a gloriously sunny afternoon - a real bonus in what had been an otherwise mixed weather bag for us in Scotland.

    After settling in to our more-than-adequate room, we ventured out, chancing upon an impressive old Dutch sailing vessel, which just happened to be in port. Colourful fishing boats filled the marina, their bright colours reflected in the still, clear waters. Eider ducks glided silently, dipping occasionally to feed amongst the seaweed and kelp that clung to the near-shore rocks.

    A brisk walk took us past Holborn Lighthouse- an interesting design with the assistant Lighthouse keeper's house incorporated into the lighthouse design (the Lighthouse Keeper having the fancier abode next door). Up and over the hill, through sheep paddocks till it seemed like we'd reach the tip of Scotland, where craggy cliffs provided homes to fulmars, their perky Puffin mates having departed only a few weeks earlier. The dramatic coastline offered a glimpse of the not-too-far-off Orkney Islands.

    Our final night on the Scottish mainland deserved a celebratory dinner and the Captain's Table offered exactly that. Housed in a restored ice house, their slow food philosophy suited our frame of mind. Coupled with amazing food and a delightful hostess, we wobbled home after a 3 course meal (with wine matches) and slept soundly till our alarm announced the arrival of the next phase in our adventure.
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  • Isle of Skye

    23. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The largest of the Inner Hebrides, Skye is easily reached via a bridge linking Kyle of Lochailsh and Kyleakin. Rugged coastlines and soaring mountain ranges provide for varied and dramatic scenery. While mostly a driving tour, we squeezed in several thought-provoking experiences that provided insight into the harsh realities that folk faced in the 18th century.

    First up however was a brief coastal walk and coffee stop (nice cafe view bit terrible scones) in the "metropolis" of Portree. Prettilly coloured shops and residences lined the small wharf, matched by equally colourful fishing boats.

    Heading north the ruins of abandoned crofts (farm houses) dotted the landscape, vestiges of the "Clearances" of the 18th century. From at least the 12th Century, Highland society was divided into tribal groups led by autocratic chiefs, with clan membership signified by the wearing of chequered cloth (tartan). All clan members bore the name of their chief but were not necessarily related by blood. The chiefs role was to protect the land for all clan members i.e. he didn't actually own it. After the Battle of Culloden (1746), all clan lands were forfeited to the Crown and the wearing of tartan was banned for almost a century (and punishable by death). During the hey-day of the Clan system, tenants paid their land-holding chieftains rent in the form of military service. With the destruction of the Clan system, landowners demanded a financial rent, which their tenants couldn't afford. Many became destitute. The land was gradually bought up by Sottish lowland and English farmers. In what became known as "the year of the sheep" (1792), thousands of tenants were evicted to make way for sheep. Many emigrated to Australia, Canada and America (and no doubt New Zealand). We would also see the results of these Clearances on the Orkney and Shetland Islands.

    An excellent record of crofting life on the Isle of Skye can be found in the Skye Museum of Island Life. A group of enthusiastic islanders created this impressive collection of 19th buildings and other artefacts to ensure that the stories and experiences that have contributed to modern society are not lost. Every facet of island life at the time is captured and presented in an informative and creative way.

    Our circuit continued along stunning coastlines, almost bereft of human occupation. Heading inland was equally awe-inspiring, with the Old Man of Storr rising above us to a height of 49m. A brief photo stop at Kilt Rock and the beautiful nearby waterfall (along with a multitude of others) and it was time to head home.
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  • Wild, wild west

    22. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Our last day in the Highlands. A choice between another day amongst the stunning mountains travelling through the eastern Cairngorms region or a wild west adventure following rugged coastlines and ancient mountain formations. We chose the latter and headed off in the direction of the Wester Ross route. This region includes some of the oldest mountains on earth (Torridonian rock is more than 600 million years old).

    Passing through the majestic Glen Shiel region, we soon found ourselves in sight of the breath-takingly beautiful Eilean Donan castle. Touted as Scotland's most romantic castle, it's easy to see why it has gained this reputation. Built at the confluence of 3 lochs, it provided a strategic vantage point for its numerous occupants. A stronghold for the Jacobites (mainly Catholic Highlanders), it was destroyed on 1719 by English warships. Restoration in the 19th century by a couple of highly passionate locals resulted in the amazing displays today.

    Much of the rest of the day was spent negotiating the many single-lane roads that follow the western coastline and traverse the mountain ranges linking meadowed valleys. One spectacular mountain pass was Bealach Na Ba. Apparently featured on an episode of Top Gear, our little Fiat ably traversed the many twists and turns along this precipitous route. The view at the top was well worth the sometimes hair-raising experience, with marsh-covered mountain tops and spectacular ocean views.

    Tiny villages nestled amongst the many coastal inlets dotted our route. Naturally, a sampling of the local ice cream was a must. It's hard to imagine making a living in such a small community, but it seemed to us that many were managing just fine in their little slice of paradise. Indeed, our contribution to the local economy continued with the purchase of some locally caught and smoked ocean trout - a simple an easy dinner after a long day on the road.

    No visit to the Highlands is complete without an up-close-and-personal experience with the local cuties - Highland cattle. These large hairy beasts are quite content to munch roadside verges as yet another tourist snaps away.
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  • A road (or two) less travelled

    21. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I've always wanted to visit Scotland. Blame it on my Scottish godmother. Or perhaps it's simply that I like wild places and had envisaged Scotland's western and northern coasts to fit that category. While Scotland is a relatively small country, as in New Zealand it takes longer to drive anywhere than you expect. This is partly due to it's narrow, winding roads, but equally the result of its awe-inspiring scenery - it's not a place to experience at pace.

    I'd read of the scenic route to Ullapool in the north-west, and beyond, a path we considered would be less travelled than those of the previous few days. We were not disappointed. First stop was the beautiful village of Stathpeffer, a former Victorian spa town where folk had come to "take the waters". A mix of Victorian splendour and Pictish history, we spent a pleasant hour or so exploring this lovely place.

    Arriving at the pretty white-washed town of Ullapool, we discovered that a true treasure lay just to the north of gateway to the island of Lewis. The North-West Highlands Geopark was awarded to the region based on it's unique and turbulent geological past, which has shaped its stunning mountain landscapes, sandy beaches, ancient settlements and contemporary communities. A well-marked route highlights the geological stories behind the stunning landscape.

    One such highlight was Knockan Crag, location of some of the oldest rocks in the world and one of the most significant scientific discoveries in recent times. An excellent interactive display combines with awe-inspiring views to tell the the story of how two men challenged the 19th century scientific norms of the time with their theories of geological processes. Knockan Crag provided the proof for their theory.

    Another highlight of the Geo Park route was an excursion to the Bone Caves, where remains of some of of Scotland's "lost animals" (bears, wolves, reindeer) were found.

    Intent on reaching the lighthouse at Stoer Point before we turned for home, we reached this remote point after mile after after mile of narrow, single lane tracks through stunning coastal heathland. Our adventurous return trip (amazing where a wrong turn can take you) meant a late dinner was to be had.

    A hugely satisfying day amongst these most beautiful surroundings.
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  • A day of false starts (& a happy ending)

    20. August 2017 in Schottland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Not wanting to venture too far, we'd set our sights on a visit to nearby Fort Augustus and possibly a Nessie hunt on the loch. Alas, Sunday proved a popular day with the locals (especially on that rare day when the sun is actually shining), so this tiny town was bursting at the seams and not a car park within cooee.

    A change of plans - to the coastal port of Mallaig via a promised scenic route (the "Road to Isles" tour). After passing through some pretty ordinary towns, (although the Bridge of Oich was interesting), a quick stop at the less-than-impressive Neptunes staircase (OK so it was an engineering marvel of mutliple locks and might have looked better with flowing water), the "scenic" drive finally kicked in just before the Glennfinnian monument. Commemorating those who rose in support of Bonnie Prince Charlie in the 1745 Jacobite rebellion, nevertheless he clearly hadn't planned for parking and once again we by-passed this bursting-at-the seams tourist attraction as we made our way west.

    The traffic thinned, the mountains grew more and more imposing - it was easy to imagine the challenges that would have faced settlers and explorers alike in this mountainous region. Arriving at the pretty port of Malaig (gateway to a number of the western islands), we briefly contemplated the ferry to the Isle of Skye as a loop route home, only to discover said ferry was fully booked. Undaunted, we fortified ourselves with ice cream and retraced our path, intent on a less populace region on the morrow.
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