• Nikola Milekic
  • Nikola Milekic

Norway

A 15-day adventure by Nikola Read more
  • Trip start
    November 26, 2025

    Hello darkness my old friend…

    November 26, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Bergen. 60° N. November 26. I landed at around 16:20. It was already dark.

    I never understood people who get depressed during the winter due to the lack of light. If you ask me direct sunlight is only good for two things: sunburns and skin cancer. Your stereotypical basement-loving, mole-eyed software developer loves it here: it was dark when I landed at 16:20, and it's still dark now at 8:30 in the morning as I'm writing this. The people here seem to have adapted: the town is beautifully lit, with Christmas decorations everywhere.

    They have a charming Christmas market that made me realize why I'm not a big fan of them in Germany: this one was not full of loud people drunk on beer and cheap mulled wine. Instead of loud music, they have quiet Christmas songs playing in the background. It was nice, cozy, and peaceful. It had an observation wheel as well, and of course I went up.

    The hotel is beautifully decorated, although the windows in the room do not open so it's a bit stuffy. Breakfast is amazing and the overall atmosphere is super cozy as well. I'll be staying here until Friday when I go aboard the Havila ship going further north.
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  • Bacon & Fish

    November 26, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    One of the many negative impacts the Serbian Orthodox Church left on Serbian culture happened when it turned the pious into fish-eating vegans for long stretches of time during lent. By doing so, they caused a very large portion of the population to avoid fish during the rest of the year (because they are sick of it), and so the Serbian cuisine lacks interesting ways of preparing fish. For instance, you would never see a Serb mixing fish and bacon, which is why I jumped at the opportunity to try the Persetorsk, a traditional dish distinctive to the city of Bergen, which consists of pressed cod served with pea purée, bacon and egg. It was out of this world! Also, I believe all plates should be this colorful.

    Another food trauma this restaurant helped me cure comes from a cake Serbs call the "ice-cream cake". The name is a pure unadulterated lie. It never came anywhere close to a freezer, let alone ice-cream. My whole childhood I was tricked and fooled, and so when the waiter suggested Flensburger Iskake (Flensburger Ice Cream Cake), my first thought was "is it really"? Turns out it really is, and it was yummy.

    The Unicorn gets my full recommendation!
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  • Håkon’s Hall & Bergen Fortress

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Håkon’s Hall was built in the mid 13th century as a royal residence and banquet hall. It was an impressive structure at the time, and along the fortress was strategically placed at the entrance of the Bergen harbor to remind incoming tradesmen who’s boss. The fortress itself is one of the oldest and best preserved stone fortifications in Norway.Read more

  • Bryggen

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Bryggen is the iconic wharf people usually associate with Bergen. It was the center of trade since at least the 12th century, although today’s buildings were all built at the very beginning of the 18th century, following a major fire in 1702.

    Today, the wharf is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is maintained using original building techniques only. This is no small feat, as the buildings sink into the ground at a rate of several millimeters a year! Maintenance of one of them is underway: it had to be lifted by a whopping 60cm, at a cost of 42m NOK or €3.6m.
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  • Reindeer Hot Dogs

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    Cinnamon rolls and reindeer hot dogs. That’s what the tour guide recommended I try. The rolls are OK but IMHO nothing to write home about. But these legendary Bergen reindeer hot dogs served with fried onions and lingonberry sauce (similar to a cranberries) are to die for.Read more

  • Fløyen

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Fløyen is one of seven mountains that surround Bergen. It provides a nice view of the city, and is quite easy to get to via a downtown funicular that runs every 15 minutes.

    Unfortunately, when I got to the top the weather was not in a cooperative mood, and all I saw was white. Luckily, after a while it cleared up a bit, but only a bit. 🤷‍♂️Read more

  • Who?

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    In Bergen they turned their old phone booths into one of those pick-a-book/leave-a-book stands. I love the concept but my call failed: there was no dial tone; and so I didn’t travel through space, only time, reminiscing…

    Special greetings.
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  • Nordnes Sjøbad

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    I loved this heated saltwater pool. You can jump into the North Sea, which was at 12°C, and then warm up in the 33°C pool. To make it even more interesting it was raining, and the temperature outside was around 10°C. I hear there is a hot tub on the ship deck as well, so I hope to repeat the experience, but when it's much colder outside.

    In my quest to verify that I really do not enjoy saunas, back when I was in Japan I tried one of their public baths and did not like it because it was way too hot. I received a complaint that I didn't really try a sauna, so I went into a proper one this time 'round. The temperature was 85°C, and I lasted for good 5 minutes. I was sweating like a pig at a barbecue party, and the only thought going through my mind was 'why would anyone enjoy this?' Then the temperature apparently dropped, some masochist decided it was way too low, he did some magic with a ladle, and I had to evacuate. I jumped in the hot water pool to recover and realized the sauna ruined it for me: the 33°C pool actually felt cold. Luckily, a quick dip in the sea was enough to reboot my system.
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  • Dinner at the Penguins

    November 27, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    The receptionist at my hotel recommended a restaurant called Penguins, and it seemed like a sign. Boy was it a good choice!

    Following the earlier theme I ordered reindeer steak served with creamy cremini mushrooms, asparagus beans, potatoes, demi-glace, and lingonberries.

    I was impressed even before the first bite: look at those colors! It was pure mouth-watering perfection. Just don’t tell any kids I know I had a bit of Rudolph’s thigh for dinner, I’ll never get out of that one.
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  • Five Minutes of Sunshine

    November 28, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Bergen gets a lot of rain, and when I say a lot, I mean a lot. London and Vancouver are said to be very rainy. On average, they get 164 and 171 rainy days respectively, where a rainy day is one with more than 0.1mm of rainfall.

    Bergen gets 231.

    They seem to be used to it though. You can spot locals by the way they dress: rubber boots and long raincoats are common. It’s because of the rain clouds that Bergen doesn’t get a lot of sun, even though it’s in the south, making the 5-10 minutes I experienced in between two showers noteworthy.
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  • Find Penguins? Hold My Beer.

    November 28, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Bergen’s aquarium is small, making it feel very private. I don’t think there were more than 50 visitors in there, if that. I was so close to the penguins, I could practically reach out and touch them. They have several crocodiles, sea lions, otters, and for the Minecraft fans out there, even an axolotl!Read more

  • Goodbye Bergen!

    November 28, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    After two wonderful days here, it’s time to say goodbye to Bergen and go further north.

    The ship is fully decorated for Xmas, my cabin super comfortable, the staff incredibly friendly, and the food amazing.Read more

  • Arriving in Ålesund

    November 29, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    After a night’s worth of sailing from Bergen we arrived in Ålesund (62° N) where there was already plenty of snow to see, much to my delight.

    The sailing was more than I expected, but bearable. Sleeping in rough seas was new to me. It can be best described as strong airplane turbulence, or being in an unpredictable elevator that accelerates and decelerates rapidly every 5 seconds or so: at one point you feel almost weightless, and the next weighed down. One person told me they were actually afraid to get out of bed, which I guess comes from the complete randomness of it all. Luckily, I didn’t experience any motion sickness, but I did develop an intimate understanding of why sailors have beards. The keen-eyed might even spot a nick in later photos that I missed for a good couple of hours.Read more

  • Geirangerfjord

    November 29, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C

    Fjords are formed during ice ages. Glaciers act like sandpaper, carving the terrain as they move. Out of Norway’s 1700, Geirangerfjord is the most famous. Its walls rise 1400m above sea level, and extend 500m below water. It is unusually narrow. UNESCO had it listed as a World Heritage Site for the beauty of its nature. For the Frozen fans out there: the scenery here was used as basis for Arendelle.

    Weather in this part of Norway is super foggy at this time of the year, and one has to be very lucky to see it clearly. I was not so lucky, but you can tell how much I enjoyed it from all the selfies: I was grinning in all like a kid in a candy shop with unlimited budget.
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  • Trondheim

    November 30, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Trondheim (63° N) is Norway’s third largest city with a population of around 200,000 people. The sun here was already behind the horizon at 2:20pm.

  • Crossing the Arctic Circle

    December 1, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    We crossed the Arctic Circle at around 8am. I went out an hour later, and stayed on deck for about two hours. During that time I took 229 photos. Because the boat was moving, by the time I was done taking pictures on one side, the scenery on the other already changed to offer next wallpaper-worthy scenes.

    We were also introduced to Njord, the Nordic god of the sea, who performed a special rite for first-time Arctic crossers, which basically consists of a glass-full of water and ice down one’s neck. I’ll let the video speak for itself. 🥶🧊
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  • Ørnes

    December 1, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ -6 °C

    Our main tour guide on this voyage is Oscar. He holds daily meetings where he presents interesting things coming up, mixed with a bit of Norwegian art, music, and a bit humor as well. I quickly learned to put all my faith in Oscar, so when he said go on deck to see Ørnes from above (it was a short stop so we couldn’t get out), I did exactly that. These photos are great in my opinion but hardly do the place justice.Read more

  • Bodø

    December 1, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌙 -4 °C

    We arrived at Bodø (67° N) at the golden hour, just as it was starting to go dark; at about 1pm. This is the first time it occurred to me that I didn’t see the sun at all, nor will I, until we leave the Arctic and go further south. The vampire in me was quite relieved. I’m told Bodø is not liked very much because of its architecture, but the little walk I had on the peer was lovely.Read more

  • Svolvær and the Northern Lights

    December 1, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌙 -5 °C

    The day started with crossing the Arctic Circle, continued with Ørnes and Bodø, and ended with this lovely little town called Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands, which are known for dramatic scenery that provides an amazing backdrop for the Northern Lights. The weather was amazing as well, with clear skies and a full moon, allowing us to see the islands with the naked eye during the night. By the end of it all, I was jumping up and down, happy as a kid in a candy store with unlimited budget.Read more

  • Finnsnes

    December 2, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ -13 °C

    On our way to Tromsø (69° N), we passed by this picturesque town of Finnsnes, the administrative center of the local province (population circa 5000), that for some reason left a great impression.

  • Sami and The Reindeer

    December 2, 2025 in Norway ⋅ 🌙 -10 °C

    The Sami are Norway’s indigenous nomadic people. Traditionally, they were reindeer herders, and still today many keep reindeer. In fact, all free-roaming reindeer in Norway are owned by Sami families. Reindeer are usually free-roaming, the ones we visited are an exception: the Sami guy looking after them realized that too many do not survive the winter in the wild due to predators. Nowadays, he uses proceeds from excursions for food.Read more

  • The North Cape

    December 3, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    The North Cape (71° N) is the northern most point of continental Europe that is easily accessible. There is a small peninsula next door that extends further 1.5km north, but getting there from land is no small feat so there are no organized visits.

    Sailing here was a blast, and later that day we also saw the most amazing display of the Northern lights. Whereas they were not visible in color with the naked eye before (only as grey stripes), here they were. It was truly breathtaking.
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  • Dog Sledding in Kirkenes

    December 4, 2025 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ -7 °C

    Allow me to introduce you to Toffin, Ellim, Money, Basil, Yukon, Ostia, and of course the wonderful musher Aneshka who took us on this wild ride. It was all that it seems, and more!

    Trip end
    December 10, 2025