Basque Country ramblings

A 17-day adventure by Nuala Read more

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Trip start
May 8, 2017
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Day 1
Monday, May 8, 2017 at 7:23 PM
☀️ 13 °C
Altitude: 61 m
Northern Ireland Lisburn 54.527157, -6.03607554°31’38” N 6°2’10” W
Lisburn
May 8, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
Nearly packed - trying to lighten the load!
TravelerYay! Exciting to think of your adventures ahead! ☀️😎🏃🏽‍♀️
5/8/17Reply
Elizabeth CuddyOff again Nuala, good for you. Buen Camino, otra vez. Keep us posted. I hope to walk in September
5/9/17Reply
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Day 2
Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 8:27 AM
⛅ 9 °C
Altitude: 90 m
Ireland Dublin Airport 53.426778, -6.24409853°25’36” N 6°14’39” W
Dublin airport
May 9, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
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Day 3
Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 3:36 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 15 m
France Béhobie 43.350083, -1.78386343°21’0” N 1°47’2” W
Easy travel day
May 10, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Today's travel went very smoothly. I know that we all complain about Ryanair, but the Dublin to Biarritz flight is super-efficient. I had no problem with my slightly oversized backpack, or with taking my walking poles as hand luggage. It was great not to have to check in a bag.

Bus from Biarritz to Hendaye, followed by a stroll across the bridge between France and Spain. Then a shortish walk to the hostel in Hondarribia.Read more
TravelerGlad it all went smoothly! x
5/10/17Reply
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Day 3
Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 3:40 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 83 m
Spain Zimizarga 43.362187, -1.81489743°21’44” N 1°48’54” W
Hondarribia
May 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
I had a peaceful night at the Capitan Tximista albergue. There were about nine of us, so we had good chats at the communal dinner.

This albergue is in a very good location - on the Camino and a few kms from Irun. I didn't want to spend an afternoon and evening in Irun, so it was great to be able to do a short walk on my arrival day. This also has the advantage of shortening tomorrow's walk to San Sebastián.Read more
TravelerLooks delightful. 🌳🌿
5/10/17Reply
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Day 3
Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 9:03 PM
🌧 18 °C
Altitude: 27 m
Spain Kontxa / La Concha 43.31638, -1.98539243°18’59” N 1°59’7” W
Hobdarribia to San Sebastian
May 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
Today's walk was about 25kms, on natural trails and country roads. It even included a little boat ride, across the river at Pasajes. My plan was to take the 'alpinista' option, but I accidentally missed the turn and took the easier (and somewhat boring) route from Gauadalupe to Pasajes.

When I arrived in San Sebastián, I had a swim in the sea to ease the aches and pains. It felt great, although the water was colder than I expected!

Blisters on day 1 - not good! Because of all the reports of rain and mud, I'm walking in my favourite hiking boots. I should have known better - my feet get too warm when I wear boots in Spain. I should have brought my lighter walking shoes.

Early night tonight - looking forward to a long sleep.Read more
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Day 3
Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 9:05 PM
🌧 18 °C
Altitude: 27 m
Spain Kontxa / La Concha 43.316376, -1.98534943°18’59” N 1°59’7” W
San Sebastian
May 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
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Day 4
Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 5:28 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 13 m
Spain Zarautz Beach 43.288028, -2.16277843°17’17” N 2°9’46” W
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Zarautz
May 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
I'm enjoying these seaside places. I stopped for lunch today at the famous Karlos Aguinano restaurant. Thankfully they had outside tables - I would have looked very out of place in the dining room! After this little stop, I walked along the beach and then rejoined the path to Getaria. So much nicer than walking through the town.

On the approach to Zarrautz, I looked back and saw a natural trail leading down to the coast. I think it probably started somewhere near the campsite. This would have been a better alternative to the asphalt road into the town. Next time!Read more
Elizabeth Cuddy What are you eating?
5/11/17Reply
Traveler Pintxos - big tapas. That one was roasted cod. I also had prawns. Very very nice.
5/11/17Reply
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Day 4
Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 8:39 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Spain San Anton mendia / Cima San Anton 43.304576, -2.20302243°18’16” N 2°12’11” W
Getaria
May 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A 26km walk today from San Sebastián. Very enjoyable, some good chats along the way. I'm staying in Getaria tonight - a really nice town with a busy port and two beaches. Another little swim today - great for the aches and the blisters.

I'm having a hotel night tonight at the Hotel Itxas Gain Getaria. It's a family-run hotel and the people are so helpful. They recommended that I have dinner at the harbour - the cafes grill fresh fish each evening. Fantastic!Read more
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Day 6
Saturday, May 13, 2017 at 8:01 AM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 263 m
Spain Kardalamutur 43.293663, -2.3862543°17’37” N 2°23’11” W
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Albergue Izarbide - Barrio de Ibiro
May 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
About 23 kms from Getaria, with some challenging ups and downs. The hard surfaces (stones, asphalt and concrete) are tough on the feet and the joints. My blisters are sore, but alternating between boots and hiking sandals helps a lot.

I took a few breaks along the way and met lots of familiar faces in Deba. I 'cheated' by taking the elevator down into the city - a great alternative to the steep descent on a hard surface.

All in all, a nice walk with some fantastic views. I'll miss the seaside, but the mountains are beautiful too.

Albergue Izarbide is really good - it's probably one of the best I've stayed in on any Camino. It's very well run, with male & female dorms, lockers, lights & plugs at each bed and an excellent communal dinner. Most of the people I met on my first night in Hondarribia are here, so it's lovely to see them all again.Read more
Traveler Alternative transport - the lift down into the city. It avoids a gruelling descent on concrete and stones.
5/13/17Reply
Traveler Breakfast in Zumaia
5/13/17Reply
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Day 6
Saturday, May 13, 2017 at 9:34 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 422 m
Spain Larruskain 43.259113, -2.429143°15’33” N 2°25’45” W
Muntibar - Albergue Lea
May 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
A long and challenging walk today, 30 kms up and down mountains. It was very beautiful and not at all crowded - apart from a mountain bike race in the early stages. The trail was quite muddy in places, but the weather was dry and very pleasant.

I left Izarbide at around 7.30ish, after a nice bowl of porridge. People laugh at me for carrying porridge in my backpack, but it's great hiking fuel! A big advantage of staying in an albergue rather than a hotel is that the facilities are totally geared towards walkers. It's great to be able to do laundry and use a kitchen.

I took a few breaks along the way, including a long one in Markina. It was first communion day in the town and it was fun to watch the families celebrating. I had no fixed plan for how far I would walk today. I knew that most people were planning to stay in the monastery after Bolibar, but when I arrived there I had enough energy to walk a bit further.

I phoned Albergue Lea in Muntibar to make sure that they had a bed, which thankfully they did. This is another great albergue, run by the most helpful couple ever. There are just 3 of us in a 10-bed dorm. Laundry and breakfast are included in the €15 price - the lady washed and dried all of my clothes. Such luxury! Dinner was great and very reasonably priced, with a 'half menu' option that suited me perfectly. I had a huge portion of lentil soup/stew, crusty bread and some home-made cake.

I soaked my feet in a big basin of ice, which helped my blisters and swollen ankles. I'm very tired, but happy and comfortable. Life is good!Read more
TravelerSleep well!
5/13/17Reply
TravelerI did!
5/15/17Reply
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Day 7
Sunday, May 14, 2017 at 9:59 AM
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 92 m
Spain Marmiz 43.297567, -2.63961343°17’51” N 2°38’23” W
Walking to Gernika
May 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
A beautiful walk, forests and hills, with the sounds of birdsong and rivers. I was enjoying it so much that I missed the arrows and climbed an extra hill! The views were great, though. The maps on my phone made it very easy to get back on track.Read more
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Day 8
Monday, May 15, 2017 at 7:10 AM
⛅ 12 °C
Altitude: 18 m
Spain Urdaibai 43.319097, -2.67940943°19’9” N 2°40’46” W
Gernika
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Gernika, the town bombed by German and Italian fighter jets in 1937, in support of General Franco. It's a modern city today, with a very moving Peace Museum.

My original plan was to stop here for a couple of hours and continue walking to the next place. However, after visiting the museum I decided to check into a hotel and have a long siesta. It's a really hot day and my feet are quite sore. Plus, I'd like to see a little more of this place.

I enjoyed wandering around the city in the evening - it was full of families enjoying the sunshine and older people out for a walk. This is one of the many things that I love about the towns and cities in Northern Spain - evening strolls seem to be the norm for all ages.Read more
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Day 8
Monday, May 15, 2017 at 10:10 AM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Spain Arana 43.307192, -2.67791743°18’26” N 2°40’41” W
Gernika-Lumo
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I was lucky to be able to spend a few more hours in Gernika this morning. I went to the market and managed to buy fruit and cake, using my less than perfect Spanish. I visited the Biscayan Assembly, the Gernika tree (new and old) and the Picasso mural. http://www.euskoguide.com/places-basque-country…

This is a very interesting and friendly city. The lady in the hotel was delighted that I took the time to see the important landmarks and visit the market. She's very passionate about her city - it was lovely to chat to her, even though I could only understand about half of what she said!

I finally decided to do something that I should have done much sooner - buy new trail shoes and post my boots home. I found a great outdoor shop and bought a new pair of Salomons - so it's adios to my boots! They are perfect for the Mournes, but not for summer walking in Spain.Read more
TravelerMarket looks wonderful. Well done on the Spanish!! 🙂
5/16/17Reply
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Day 8
Monday, May 15, 2017 at 12:43 PM
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 11 m
Spain Parroquia de Santa Eufemia 43.419704, -2.71998743°25’11” N 2°43’12” W
Bermeo
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
My blisters aren't healing, so I decided not to continue walking. I'm having a rest day 'of sorts' and making my way to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe on the coast. The first part of this journey involves a very pretty train journey to the even prettier town of Bermeo.Read more
TravelerGood decision! Well done. 🌸
5/16/17Reply
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Day 8
Monday, May 15, 2017 at 4:29 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 58 m
Spain Gaztelugatx 43.447311, -2.78492843°26’50” N 2°47’6” W
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Here's the lowdown on this place:
http://www.euskoguide.com/places-basque-country…

As the guide says: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is connected to the mainland by a man-made stone bridge. The bridge transitions into a narrow path that contains 241 steps and zigzags its way back and forth. Once there, you will find the church which has a bell situated along the front of its facade. According to legend, after you have completed the climb, you should ring the bell three times and make a wish.

So, I did all of those things - with a full backpack. Not quite a rest day after all! It was great to reach the top, but my favourite part was probably sitting on the rocks at bottom and looking back up at this very unusual structure.

I'm staying in Bilbao tonight, before starting my journey to Bayonne for the Camino del Baztán.Read more
TravelerStunning pics!
5/16/17Reply
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Day 9
Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 9:50 AM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 26 m
Spain Parque de Doña Casilda de Iturrizar 43.267303, -2.94200643°16’2” N 2°56’31” W
Stopover in Bilbao
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
After San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, I walked to Bakio and took a bus to Bilbao. Baikio was a pretty soulless place - a surf beach and lots of empty holiday apartments. I felt very out of place as a sweaty backpacker.

I'm also feeling a bit out of place in my very fancy hotel in Bilbao. It's a really nice hotel, with great views of the park and in a good location for tomorrow's travels - but it feels like an interruption to my walk through areas of peace and natural beauty.Read more
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Day 9
Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 10:59 AM
⛅ 25 °C
Altitude: 50 m
Spain San Mames 43.26017, -2.94971343°15’37” N 2°56’59” W
Bilbao
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I'm on the move again, on a bus to San Sebastián. Today is a 'buffer day' between my week on the Camino del Norte and the Camino del Baztan. It was good to have a later wake-up time this morning and I made the most of the very nice hotel breakfast.

I need to resist the urge to walk today. Yesterday was to be a rest day, but my Fitbit says that I walked 33,662 steps. No surprise that my blisters were screaming at me last night 😊Read more
TravelerSelf-care required!
5/16/17Reply
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Day 9
Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 6:40 PM
⛅ 23 °C
Altitude: 33 m
Spain Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Manzano 43.362572, -1.79130543°21’45” N 1°47’29” W
Hondarribia
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
I seem to have inadvertently chosen the prettiest place ever for my final night on this part of the journey. Hondarribia is so beautiful, especially the old part of the town where I'm staying tonight. I'll take the little ferry tomorrow, across the estuary to France. Really looking forward to returning to the Camino del Baztan.Read more
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Day 10
Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 11:31 AM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 11 m
France Le banc des Berritsu 43.3755, -1.76363343°22’32” N 1°45’49” W
Hondarribia to Hendaye
May 17, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
This was a travel day, with a little bit of walking. OK, probably more than a little bit of walking as my fitbit recorded 28,200 steps. 😊

I took the ferry across the estuary from Hondarribia to Hendaye. A very pleasant little jaunt, on a sunny morning. There were just four of us in the boat.

My plan was to walk from Hendaye to Saint Jean de Luz, but after walking along Hendaye Plage, I decided that I didn't really want to do this. I walked back along the beach, through the town and along the estuary to the railway station. The estuary/river walk is part of a GR route and a few people stopped me to ask where I was going! Two Italian men were particularly keen to chat, as they had walked the Camino Francés a few years ago.

I hung around the train station for a while, before taking the train to Bayonne. This was so much faster and more comfortable than the bus.Read more
TravelerGorgeous pics - is that your next car!?
5/18/17Reply
TravelerI always take a photo of a Renault 4! They are getting harder to find, though.
5/19/17Reply
TravelerWeird girl! 😬
5/19/17Reply
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Day 10
Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 10:17 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 27 m
France Nive 43.49622, -1.46950143°29’46” N 1°28’10” W
Bayonne
May 17, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I checked into the little hotel on arrival in Bayonne and did the usual ritual of having a shower, washing my clothes and setting up an improvised laundry line. I then went out for a little ramble around the city.

The other Baztán peregrinas arrived a little later and we chatted as though we were old friends. A great start to the next part of the adventure!Read more
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Day 11
Thursday, May 18, 2017 at 6:30 PM
⛅ 13 °C
Altitude: 84 m
France Espelette 43.340242, -1.44777843°20’25” N 1°26’52” W
Bayonne to Esplette
May 18, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Day 1 of the Camino del Baztan. About 25 kms from Bayonne to Esplette. Mud, mud, glorious mud!

The weather was awful, but the company was fabulous.
TravelerMud - nooooooo - Glasto 2016!!?
5/19/17Reply
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Day 12
Friday, May 19, 2017
🌧 11 °C
Altitude: 313 m
Spain Maya del Baztán 43.202986, -1.47851943°12’11” N 1°28’43” W
Esplette to Amaiur - about 24 kms
May 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
This was definitely a harder day than I remember from last time. Laurie and I made things even harder by taking a forest route over the border into Spain, in an effort to avoid the asphalt and the long row of supermarkets and fuel stations. However, we weren't as clever as we thought and ended up taking a bit of a detour! No regrets, though - it was a really nice walk.

We met up with the others in Urdax and after a lunch stop, began the long climb. It went on and on and on ..... and then there was another one after we reached what seemed to be the top! All in all, a long day and we were glad to reach our B&B (Goiz Argi) in Amaiur. We relaxed for a while and had dinner in the local bar. The lady prepared big platters of fried eggs, potatoes and meat for us. After that, we made the most of the kitchen and sitting room at Goiz Argi and enjoyed Kathy's Gateau Basque and tea. We're so rock and roll!

I think we'll all sleep well tonight.Read more
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Day 13
Saturday, May 20, 2017 at 3:23 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 398 m
Spain Aniz 43.112889, -1.5777443°6’46” N 1°34’40” W
Amaiur to Berroeta - about 20 kms
May 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
This was to be a shorter day, so we had breakfast at Goiz Argi and set off a little later than usual. We were in no particular hurry, as Laurie had phoned the Berroeta hospitalera to let her know we were coming. And since there's nothing to do in Berroeta, there's no point in arriving too early!

We had a short stop in Arizkun, followed by a longer one in Elizondo. The popularity of the Dolores Redondo books was very much in evidence, with tour buses parked in the side streets. We fed our own Redondo fascinations with a visit to the Malkorra cafe and a txantxigorri! We then bought food to cook later in the albergue.

Once again, my Baztán memories proved to be quite unreliable, as I remembered this as a pretty easy and flat day. While it didn't involve any of yesterday's exertions, it definitely wasn't flat.

There are six of us in the Berroeta albergue - the five amigas, plus a man from Valencia who was probably looking forward to having the place to himself! This is a comfortable 16-bed albergue, with a well-equipped kitchen and dining area. We enjoyed a very happy home-cooked meal before retiring early to bed.

Laurie and I will take the alternative route to Belate tomorrow. We had a quick look at the initial stages and there seem to be some yellow arrows. With these arrows, our notes and the GPS tracks we should be fine! The hospitalera also gave us some useful tips and advice, as she walks this route to gather mushrooms.Read more
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Day 14
Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 8:15 PM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 629 m
Spain Río de Lanz 42.997547, -1.61967542°59’51” N 1°37’11” W
Berroeta to Lantz, about 19kms
May 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Fantastic day of off-road hiking, through magical beech forests and over the Puerto de Belate. Strenuous, but worth it. Laurie and I took the less-travelled option from Berroeta and were so glad that we did. It involved a bit of scrambling, but all of the efforts were very well-rewarded. There were more yellow arrows than we expected and with a little GPS help, we managed not to get lost. Amazingly, we met the others at the point where the two paths joined. A seemingly impossible coincidence!

We stayed in the excellent albergue in Lantz and dined with the locals in the Posada. A memorable last night together for the 5 Peregrinas.Read more
TravelerLooking cool! Love the pink T-shirt. x
5/24/17Reply
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Day 15
Monday, May 22, 2017 at 3:50 PM
☀️ 25 °C
Altitude: 422 m
Spain Pamplona 42.821433, -1.63391742°49’17” N 1°38’2” W
Lantz to Pamplona, about 29kms
May 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
A day of mostly off-road hiking, through forests, natural trails and a meadow of wild flowers. Some mud, but thankfully not as much as last year. Just four of us today, as Laurie is now on her way to Irun.

Everywhere in the Baztan valley seems to close on a Monday, but we found a petrol station with a coffee machine! Manna from heaven 😊Read more
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