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A Visit to southern Africa 202
  • Peter Craig
  • Peter Craig

A Visit to southern Africa 202

A 36-day adventure by Peter Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 10, 2026
    Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 2 Friday 10 April Manly

    April 10 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Slept very well and had a leisurely breakfast at Jill's before seeing Alex off to work.
    Went down to The Bower with Piers, Bear and Poppy and watched them swimming in the seapool.
    When Piers took Poppy back for a sleep, Viv and I wandered down the Corso and had ban mi in a Vietnamese cafe.
    Back to Jill's for a final pack and shower before heading for Piers' flat to talk.
    Piers dropped us off at the ferry terminal just after 3.00 and made our way to Sydney Domestic airport via ferry and train.
    Beer and don't once we had checked our bags through to Harare. Virgin flight left just after 6.30. Back row but at least had a spare seat between us. Read and dozed.
    Arrived in Perth at 9.30 local time. Stripped searched in Customs!

    Moved through transit and upstairs to International Departures. Went through Customs and Immigration safely and relaxed until our flight was called just before midnight. On board SAA280, a comfortable Airbus 340-300. Watched the lights of Perth and the coast disappear before settling down.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 3 Saturday 11 April (in flight)

    April 13 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Flying out over the Indian Ocean, we were served with a good dinner by friendly hostesses (impressive).
    Managed to get some sleep on the 10.5 hours flight. Breakfast before we landed in Johannesburg about 4.00 am. Sleepy Customs officials let us into transit very easily and we wandered around OR Tambo until 8.00 am when the Tshongololo Lounge opened. Showered and breakfasted - and relaxed.

    Boarded the SA20 flight to Harare at 10.00 and 1.25 hours later landed in Harare. Our online entry visa applications had only been partially successful (me) and Viv had to redo hers twice, with the help of a young assistant, before her visa was operational.

    Welcomed by Graham Henderson and we soon loaded up his Toyota Prado before driving across town (huge changes) to Glen Lorne and a welcome from Jean and their spaniel, Sabi.

    Unwound, wandered around the garden and generally relaxed for the afternoon. Met George again, their affable gardener/mechanic, who remembered us from our previous visit.

    Watched a little bit of IPL cricket before dinner over which we chatted. Went off to bed about 9.00 pm totally exhausted and slept soundly.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 4 Sunday 12 April Harare

    April 13 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Up at 5.45 and got ourselves ready for a 7.00 am departure. Breakfast and bags (a shared one) into the trailer, assisted by George. Vehicles full of water, food, camping equipment and us.

    Went across town and filled up with petrol, while we ducked around the corner to buy some bottles of water. Met up with Dave & Gilly White just beyond the toll gates. It was good to see them again after all these years.

    It was a long drive of nearly 500 kms to get to our camp-site in Gonarezhou. I swapped cars and travelled with Dave & Gilly which gave both Viv and me the opportunity to spread out a bit in cars loaded with food and drinking water.

    The route took us south and then south-east through Chivhu, Gutu, Zaka, Buffalo Range and Chiredzi. We stopped under shady roadside trees for a morning and lunch sandwich. The road varied from reasonable in patches to dreadfully potholed in some of the urban areas (Gutu).

    Filled up with fuel in Chiredzi (well-maintained sugar cane fields) before turning off towards Gonarezhou through a private game concession (Malalangwe) and then on to the Chipinda Pools entrance to the Gonarezhou National Park. Chatted to some ex-Zimbabwean family who were there from South Africa (one lived in Brisbane).

    Another 37 kms took us to our tented campsite of Chipale. The route had been mainly flat and we saw impala and elephants. However we did climb a ridge for an excellent view of the flooded Rundi River. Quite a sight! Soon the Chilojo Cliffs came into view and we had finally arrived. The Hendersons in Tent 1, the Craigs 50 metres away in Tent 2, and the Whites 800 metres away in Tent 3. All identical and very comfortable and clean. As a result of the recent rains the bush was lush and unusually high making animal viewing difficult (both the Whites & Hendersons said that it would have all disappeared by August).

    We all ate at the Hendersons', around the fire place. Lots of catch up talk. Headed for bed about 10.00 pm totally exhausted.

    There was a large troop of baboons close by and they occupied the trees above our tent overnight with some deep male grunts and female squawks but generally we had a peaceful night (and we were exhausted anyway).    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 5 Monday 13 April Chipale

    April 14 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Awake at about 6.00 and soon had the kettle boiling for a cup of coffee. A most comfortable bed!

    The cleaner turned up at 6.30 but the other 2 tents were fast asleep.

    Walked down to the river and out across the sand to the water but saw no wildlife.

    Breakfast on our verandah and then we all left for an introductory drive in the vicinity.

    First to Fishans Crossing which was very much underwater and then later to the Chilojo picnic area where we walked down to the water's edge. Sat and talked.
    This was our first real look at the Rundi River and the Chilojo Cliffs. Stunning views, hippos in the river and distant elephants. Kudos and baboons on the way back to out tents.

    Back to camp for a sandwich lunch, a G&T and a siesta despite the tent being hot.

    In the late afternoon Graham took us on a a side trip to the river bank to see whether we could see Fayne Connelly's party on the other sure. Had a good look, saw a group camping but no Fayne. As we left Dave managed to drive into a deep washaway and we were precipitously balanced on the riverbank. Everybody out and fortunately the Hendersons were halted by Viv, and Graham returned to pull Dave out. Quite a bit of drama that we were lucky enough to escape from unscathed.

    Jean not feeling well so final food preparation was completed by Viv in our kitchen. The whole group ate around our successful fire and we talked until tiredness. Plenty of Umtali childhood memories were combed over by Graham, Dave and me.

    Great shower and sound asleep soon after.

    Had seen impala, elephants and female kudos that day.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 6 Tuesday 14 April Chipale

    April 14 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Had a really good night's sleep and made coffee just after 6.00 am. Wandered around the tent corner to see what the baboons were up to and found the large ebony trees above us alive with them (40+?). They were panicked by us and rushed down to flee but it unsettled us as well as we weren't too sure what they were doing.

    Heard lions in the night.

    Lazy start to the morning. Read, did puzzles, laundry. Got changed when Elizabeth arrived to clean our accommodation.

    Late breakfast and then wandered across to see how the Hendersons were. Jean not feeling well with .migraine symptoms. By mid- morning the Whites had arrived and the decision was made to pack a picnic lunch and go to the Bupomela crossing site.

    The thick undergrowth thinned out as we drove south-east along the river, with the Cliffs across on the far side. Saw zebra, impala and elephants. Turned off the graded road on to a bush track and followed the course of the river.

    About 5 kms short of Bupomela we were halted by a flooded drift that was just that too deep. Turned back and found a shady, grassed picnic spot under a large baobab tree where we had lunch. Stayed until about 2.30 before returning to our Chipale camp ground.

    We came back along the river road and saw a family of warthog. Stopped on the river bank opposite another campsite on the south bank. Tried calling (coo-eee) but got no positive reaction from them so Fayne was obviously not among them (which was disappointing for Viv).

    Relaxed on our return to camp and then got a fire going as everyone joined us for dinner. Lots of talk and laughter as we watched the flames dance in the designated fire place.

    The bed was large, firm and comfortable and we slept well again.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 7 Wednesday 15 April Chipale

    April 15 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Up at 5.30 and watched the day light increase and the colours of a sunrise over the Chilojo Cliffs. Made a coffee for both of us and then walked down to the Rundi to see whether there were any animals (none) as well as to photograph the sunrise.

    Started to set up for the day when we suddenly saw a mother elephant and her calf 20 metres from the back of our tent. Watched their meanderings for an hour or so during which a large kudos walked passed, followed by a troop of baboons.

    After breakfast wandered across to the Hendersons to find out how they were and what the plans were for the morning. When the Whites arrived the decision was made to pack a picnic lunch and head for the Chilojo picnic area again.

    Saw no game on the way there. Chose no. 3 picnic spot and parked under a tree just on the river bank. All wandered down to the water (apart from Graham) and pottered around. Lunched around 1.00 pm and sat around talking until mid-afternoon.

    Returned to Chipale with Graham & Jean as we followed the river road to the site of Dave's 'donga crash'. Warthog! A lovely family of about 8. Cooed across the river to a campsite on the other bank but despite being noticed it wasn't Fayne.

    Had a cup of tea back at Chipale and read until early evening. Jean had another diabetes episode so we helped with dinner while Graham sorted it all out. Built a fire around which we were joined by Dave & Gilly for a conversation of memories and explanations. Lots of laughter.

    Bed by 9.00    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 8 Thursday 16 April Chipale

    April 15 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Got up at 5.30 and walked across to the Hendersons' to remove the evidence of our 'non-purchased' firewood and fire ashes. Down to the river bank for a look for animals and sunrise colours but disappointed by both.

    Coffee and read on the verandah listening to the doves and other animals in the distance.

    Packed up and helped load the trailer after breakfast. Left Chipale at 9.30. It had been a great campsite. As we left, we heard via the cleaner Elizabeth that there was no place for us that had been booked at Chipinda Pools (despite Graham booking it and all of us paying for it). Graham negotiated via 2 way radio that we were given alternative accommodation at the Masasam dam campsite.

    We made our way via a tortuous backroad that really tested Dave's car (and his patience). On arrival we found that the cleaners needed more time so we uncoupled the trailer and headed for the Rundi River. The route slowly wound down to the causeway with some spectacular views.

    Viv, Gilly and I walked across, and the whole group picnicked under a shady tree on the south bank. There were a pair of hippos in the pool below us. After a while some park rangers came along and wanted us back on the road, which we did because it was time to move.

    We took the Chivilila Loop road and bounced around on the riverbank until we climbed to the viewpoint for the Chivilila Falls. What a stunning sight! And a real surprise. We ere lucky that the river was in flood (although dropping). Water pouring over rocks everywhere. Much to our surprise we discovered an elephant on a rocky outcrop above cliffs overlooking the roiling water. We wondered how it had got there. What a stunning waterfall and we enjoyed the view immensely.

    Worked our way back to the main road and back to our camp-site at Masasani. Moved into our separate huts and then came together at the boma for a BBQ dinner. Boerewors and steak. Hippos grunting in the dam in front of us.

    Shower in the cabin after filling up the ? with hot water in a bucket from the outside toilet. Under the mosquito net with the front blinds wide open. Hippo sounds and frogs. Slept very well.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 9 Friday 17 April Masasani

    April 17 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Awoke at dawn with hippos on shore close by and 9 on the far bank. A stunning dawn sky. Made my way to the boma and made a coffee for r both of us, walking it back to our hut.

    Packed up ready for departure and then walked to the boma for some breakfast.

    We left Masasani just after 7.30 a.m. Stopped at the viewpoint again. The Rundi had visibly reduced in size. Paid for firewood at the Park Reception and asked a friendly South African to take a group photo.

    Pushed through the Malalingwi Concession (saw no game) and filled up with petrol at Chiredzi. It was a long drive back to Harare (600 kms) so it was constant travel as we pushed north.

    Chiredzi (extensive sugar cane fields), then Buffal Ranges and on to Zaka where there are some attractive hills. Stopped for morning tea on the side of the road. On to Gutu where the road deteriorated into frequent potholes. 30 minutes of arduous driving. Roadside for another lunch break.

    Dave's car stuttering occasionally with dirt in the petrol. Arrived at the Harare South toll gates where I swapped cars and we farewelled the Whites. They had been fun on our trip.

    Across town to Glen Lorne before dark and all hands helped unpack the trailer and Prado. Jean had prepared a Spaghetti Bolognaise so we sat and talked but were in bed by 9.00 pm.

    It had been a memorable visit to Gonarezhou.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 10 Saturday 18 April Harare

    April 18 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Had a really lazy day unwinding.

    Late breakfast with Jean, joined later by Graham.

    Read emails, responded to posts and caught up to date with my diary (and photos.

    Helped with some unpacking. All our clothes were washed and ironed by Caroline. Jean brought their spaniel, Sabi, back from the kennels.

    After lunch had a siesta

    Read

    In the evening went for a walk down the road with Viv, Jean and Sabi.

    Watched some IPL. Much talk over dinner.

    Bed about 9.30    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 11 Sunday 19 April Harare

    April 19 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Slow start to the day despite having been up at dawn reading my tablet.

    All breakfasted together about 9.00.

    Read while waiting to go grocery shopping but Graham spent the morning fiddling with the electrics of the trailer.

    Had lunch and finally headed for the local (new) Spar supermarket with Graham. Surprised by how much was on offer in a clean, well-presented store. Filled our shopping trolley with items required for Nyanga. Chemist next door before heading home for a cup of tea.

    Took Sabi for a walk with Jean and Viv down passed 'Old McDonald's Farm.

    Watched some IPL cricket before and during dinner.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 12 Monday 20 April Harare

    April 20 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Up early and read.

    Breakfasted with everyone at 7.30, then packed and helped load the car and trailer.

    Left Glen Lorne at 10.00 and made our way to the Mutare Road. Big changes there. Filled up with petrol before pushing south-eastwards through Ruwa (big growth area).

    Familiar names of villages as we drove. Marandera, Macheke, Headlands and Rusape. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Halfway, just before Headlands. A familiar stop for Viv during her childhood.

    On to Rusape where we turned off towards Juliasdale and on to the National Park. Rocky kopjes becoming larger and more imposing. Punch Rock, Montclair Hotel and stopped to buy fruit at Clermont. Views of Inyangani.

    Onwards to the Troutbeck turn-off and we climbed for a bit before turning into a sideroad and reaching 'Chapungu', the cottage that the Hendersons have shares in. Stunning views down the valley to Nyanga village.

    Unpacked, had afternoon tea, then went for a short evening stroll with an excited Sabi.

    Evening meal and a fireside conversation before a bath and bed.

    It's great to be back in Nyanga.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler
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    21

    Day 13 Tuesday 21 April Nyanga

    April 21 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Awoke early and climbed the stairs from our downstairs bedroom looking for coffee. Found Sabi in the kitchen but no electricity or gas, so no coffee.

    Abandoned the idea of coffee, dressed and headed off for a walk up the firebreak to the viewpoint at the top. Had to do some bushbashing because a couple of large wattle had been felled. Spectacular views of Inyangani and vistas to the west.

    Back for coffee and breakfast. Porridge is the staple for Jean and its been a staple this visit.

    About 10.00 we embarked on a car ride and went up the road to the communications tower and its views. From there we drove to Troutbeck and asked about an anniversary lunch tomorrow. Wandered down to the dam with Sabi off the lead and into the water.

    Left Troutbeck and headed further north, on a road I have never been on before. Views of Mozambique and a large mountain to the east.

    Turned off on a dirt road and eventually found Nyamoro Dairy and its cafe. Had lunch in the garden under a tree. Quiche, toastie, chips and home made lemonade.

    On the way back we turned off and went up to World's View and the Connemara Lakes. What a special vista! No wonder it's called World's View. Climbed the topological tower to see how far away other places were.

    Made our way back to Chipungu for a late tea on lawn. Another spectacular sunset. Lit the fire and relaxed after a day of scenic memories.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 14 Wednesday 22 April Nyanga

    April 22 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Our 54th wedding anniversary and we are back at Nyanga where we honeymooned all those years ago!

    Up at 4.45 and negotiated Sabi in the kitchen to make a cup of coffee. Decided to walk to the high point beacon up the road.

    A beautiful clear morning and the views were stunning. Followed the dirt road upwards and finally turned off towards the summit. It was a maintenance road that looped around to get access.

    Once there I bushbashed to the old concrete trig point on the highest point. Sat and absorbed the scenery, with views to the horizon in all but the east. Inyangani clear and close. Magic!

    Reluctantly headed back to the path, then down to the beginning of the maintenance road. Back at Chapungu by 8.00. A most enjoyable 5 km walk.

    Viv not feeling well but improving with medication.

    Breakfast with the Hendersons. A lazy morning followed and we sat on the lawn in the sun chatting.

    Left for Troutbeck about 12.30. Took Sabi with us so sat on the terrace out of the cold breeze. Ended up having a relaxing 3 hour anniversary lucheon which we will certainly remember!

    Mid-afternoon Graham took us to the nearby Brackenhills Dam and we walked around the perimeter. Relaxing.

    Back to Chapungu where we all found ways of relaxing. Had something of a siesta.

    Good fire. Soup only for supper. Much talk. Bed about 9.30 after a warm bath.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 15 Thursday 23 April Nyanga

    April 22 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Awoke to the house surrounded in thick mist - familiar Nyanga guti conditions. After coffee decided to go for walk in the guti. Went up the hill then turned left at the crossroads and headed down for a bit until the road started following the contour. Passed several big properties but no view because of the mist. After 30 minutes turned back, better for the 7 kms exercise but not much else.

    Breakfasted with everyone and we then packed the car and trailer. Said farewell to Ruparo and Nurmar, the workers at Chapungu, and drove down to Nyanga village. Petrol and the electricity office to sort out a fusebox issue.

    Pushed onwards through Juliasdale to a bustling Rusape (much-changed) before turning north on the road to Harare. Many kopjes near Macheke and Headlands before we stopped again at Halfway for a picnic lunch.

    Onwards to Marandera, Norton, Ruwa and finally the outskirts of Harare. Took the backroads to Glen Lorne and arrived at 25 Worplestone Way at about 3.30.

    Unpacked and unwound. Evening dog stroll with Sabi, Jean and Viv to the end of the street.

    Watched some IPL before and during dinner.

    Early bed.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler
    1

    Day 16 Friday 24 April Harare

    April 24 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Up early after a good night's sleep.

    Lazy morning

    Breakfasted at 9.00 with the Hendersons.

    At about 12.30 we left Glen Lorne and made our way to the Borrowdale shopping centre and the Village Greek. Once there we joined up with Dave and Gilly White plus Rob, Mel, and Ann Garvin (family friends from Viv's past).

    Had a most enjoyable lunch with plenty of bonhomie. Touching book gift from the Whites. It all ended about 3.00 with farewells, which were particularly sad in the case of the Whites. They had been great company during our return to Zimbabwe.

    Supermarket shopping before home followed by the evening stroll with Sabi with all of us chatting away.

    IPL cricket and dinner.

    Some packing. Early night    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler
    1

    Day 17 Saturday 25 April Harare

    April 25 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Up early.

    Finished packing before breakfast.

    Loaded the car by 10.00 and headed for the airport with Graham and Jean. A slow trip but arrived in plenty of time. A really emotional farewell. They gave us a fabulous holiday in Zimbabwe. A beautiful couple - with a fun spaniel, Sabi, - as well as George and Caroline to assist them.

    It was sad to fly out.

    A good South African Airways flight to Johannesburg (1 hr 20mins)

    Made our way to the bus terminal and waited a long time for the shuttle. Eventually dropped off at Peermont L'Oréal Hotel.

    Relaxed before going for a walk within the huge complex. Never seen so many poker machines!

    Joined the whole group for a drink in the bar before adjourning to the table for 12 in the dining room. Much talk as we all became acquainted.

    On the trip with us
    * Gloria Blonde & Greg Bruce
    * Don Butler & John Curotta
    * Liz & Michael Light
    * Jenny & David Wells
    * Wendy & Peter Wurfel

    Everyone tired and there is an early start tomorrow so a reasonable bed time.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 18 Sunday 26 April Johannesburg

    April 25 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Not the best of nights as the duvet was too hot.

    Up at 5.45 and joined everyone at 6.30 when the dining room opened for breakfast. Great choices.

    By 7.30 we were all ready for departure, although Michael's bag had disappeared. Eventually found and we were taken swiftly to OR Tambo International Airport. Assisted by a local, we were soon booked in, and passed through security and Customs.

    Browsed in the book shop + until boarding time appeared. Our Air Link Embraer was reasonably full. One hour 20 mins later we arrived at Victoria Falls airport.

    We were met by the Old Drift Lodge crew and driven into town and then along the Zambezi bank to a jetty. The whole group was transferred to 2 boats and we made our way slowly upstream, looking for wildlife onshore. Elephants, giraffe, and impala.

    Greeted by the staff and welcomed by the female manager. Allocated to rooms and we discovered that we had been given the special sky room facility, 800ms away from the main block, downstream from all the others, with an outdoor bed on a raised platform. Had fun unwinding in the plunge pool.

    At 4.30 we gathered for tea and then set off on a river cruise. Hippos, elephants, maribou storks and an African river sunset.

    Had a kudu steak for dinner and walked back, with a torch-bearer to ward off wildlife, to our Room 12. Showered and then climbed up to our sky bed for the night. (couldn't see much because of the thick mosquito netting, which was a bit of a let down but we were too tired to care!!)    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 19 Monday 27 April Victoria Falls

    April 26 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Not the best of nights and we were both up before 5.00 am. Got ourselves ready for the early morning game drive. About 5.45 we were collected by torch-bearing staff and taken to the main building for a coffee before we boarded our safari vehicles. Quite cold.

    Since the lodge is in a game reserve, we meandered from the river to the flatter country in the interior. Baobabs and elephant-smashed msasas. Saw plenty of game starting with impala but also kudu, warthog, elephants and zebra. Stopped on the river bank for a bush coffee, a great safari tradition that I always enjoy.

    Back at the Old Drift Lodge we had a late breakfast followed by a leisurely morning. Swam and read but were interrupted by a herd of 7 elephants very close to our tent.

    Made our way the 500 ms to reception by 1.30 pm and when everyone had arrived the whole group, in 2 vehicles, was taken to the Lookout Cafe for a late lunch. Views of the gorge and a huge volume of water passing through it.

    Moved from the Lookout Cafe mid-afternoon for a visit to the Falls. Issued with ponchos as we arrived and we needed them. Can't remember ever seeing so much water and the spray was soaking. Views from the various viewpoints was limiting.

    Devils Cataract, Livingstone's statue, Main Falls and then drenching mist. Few photos. Danger Point and Boiling Pot impossible to see and the rocks were wet. However, it was still great to be back at a majestic sight and our fellow travellers absolutely loved it. On to the bridge view before walking a drier path back to the exit.

    Showed everyone around the iconic Victoria Falls Hotel and then went on to the Big Tree (baobab) before heading back to the Old Drift Lodge in the dusk. Driven to our tent by one of the drivers.

    By 7.30 we had been collected by a torch-bearer and walked the 700 ms to a Boma Dinner with all the hotel guests in attendance. Good food - had warthog., boerewors, sudza plus. The staff did a singsong and we all joined in.

    On the way back to a tent we saw a browsing hippo in the torchlight and discovered it had made an unintended hole in our board walk before we had arrived.

    Bed by 10.00, downstairs this time. It had been a good day.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 20 Tuesday 28 April Victoria Falls

    April 28 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A slow start to the day. Viv had an outdoor bath while I had a shower

    Packed before walking to the main building for breakfast. Chatted to the others.

    Finished packing. Bags collected and we all met in reception at 10.00. However, the transfer bus arrived 45 minutes later, which really didn't matter.

    Taken by Patricia the 1.5 hours to the Botswana border in small bus. A reasonable tarred road which deteriorated the closer we got to the border. View of the new bridge across the Zambezi as we came into Kasangula. Long lines of coal trucks from Hwange lined up to get through, to go south to South Africa.

    Slow but familiar process of customs departure and entry. Shoes chemically cleaned against foot and mouth by walking through a shallow trough. On to Kasane Airport for a handover to Okavango Expeditions.

    After meeting Isaac and Mpho we were taken into Chobe township and the wharf from which our boat sailed. Issued, after a wait, with a packed lunch before boarding and starting our cruise. Stopped to sign into the National Park office, before starting our game viewing.

    Crocodiles, hippos, elephants, kudu and hyena.

    Back ashore we'll before sunset as still had a lengthy drive to our camp-site. Drove down the main road for a long time before turning off. En route saw a sable, buffalo.

    Reached our Chobe National Park campsite at dusk. Allocated to tent No. 6.
    All gathered for a gin and tonic in front of the fire. Good meal

    Everyone exhausted and headed for bed soon after 9.00. A long day but a good one.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 21 Wednesday 29 April Chobe NP

    April 29 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Heard lions,hyenas and elephants during the night. Aroused at 5.30, breakfast by 6.00 and we left camp for our first game drive about 6.30. We made our way slowly towards the flooded Chobe River, stopping whenever we saw any fauna of interest.

    By the time we stopped for a morning coffee about 9.00 we had seen impala, lechwe, doves, lilac-crested rollers, fish eagle, Marshall Eagle, baboons and giraffe.

    Continued our search before returning to camp at 11.30. Refreshed and lunch and a drink (a Botswana St Louis beer). R&R until 3.00 pm. A warm afternoon.

    The late afternoon drive was most rewarding. Saw kudu, our first herd of giraffe (26?), and then our first lions. Two females were focused on a giraffe family of 4, with a small baby. The giraffe were aware of the lions and there was a stand-off for a while before the giraffe moved off.

    Back to camp for a drink (G&T) around the campfire followed by dinner. Much talk.

    Headed for our tent about 9.30 with everyone tired.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 22 Thursday 30 April Chobe NP

    April 30 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Up at 5.00 with large bags packed before a 5.30 breakfast. Tents being 'dropped' as we ate, while the whole camp prepared to move to Savuti. On the road soon after 6.00, well rugged-up.

    Spent the next few hours game-viewing along the Chobe River front. Great sightings of a male lion, jackal, elephants . warthog, waterbuck and a herd of 30 giraffe. Amazed at how flooded the Chobe River was.

    Left the river and finally turned towards the Ngoma Gate as we exited the National Park. Continued westwards on a tarred road as we followed the river boundary. Small villages with their kgotlas (community meeting places). Acacias appearing for the first time as the vegetation changed to savannah. We stopped for lunch by driving off the road to the shade of a large tree. Views across farm land to the river.

    As the road turned south (and the Chobe turned north) we left the tar and embarked on 80 kms of sandy bush tracks. 4WD low traction, bouncy. Very slow progress and we only saw a couple of elephants. On the second part of the rough track we had to negotiate large pools of water in the dips. Finally reached the Ghoha Gate of the Savuti National Park about 4.30 and began to operate as a game-viewing drive, stopping to ask other trucks what they had seen and where.

    Saw a saddle billed stork, zebra, a Kori bustard and finally 5 female lions (fast asleep). At dusk we eventually arrived at our new camp, to the shouted greetings from the crew.

    Our tents had already been set up and there was hot water in the shower bucket. Great to clean the day's dust off a weary body. G&T before dinner around the fire. A good meal was attacked with positive conversation about the activities of a long day

    A very tired group headed for bed by 9.00    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 23 Friday 1 May Savuti

    May 1 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We were awoken at 5.30, had coffee at 6.00 and were out game-viewing soon afterwards.

    As the sunrise we came across a male lion sleeping in the road. Watched for a while then saw 2 young females playing in the distance. Moved around to get closer to the frolicking. Kept in touch until they climbed a sandy hill.

    Word came through that some cheetahs had been sighted and we were lucky enough to watch a mother, and later her 2 cubs, before they crossed the road and disappeared into the bushes.

    Went in search of a leopard that had been seen yesterday. En route we saw a steenbok, some zebra and wildebeest. And then suddenly we were looking at a large male leopard that was focused on an impala. Eventually the impala realised and moved off quickly and the leopard moved passed us and out of sight.

    On our way back to camp late in the morning we saw impala, wildebeest and zebra.

    Relaxed and did some laundry. Late lunch and slept in the tent in the heat of the afternoon. Afternoon iced tea and carrot cake before we left for the afternoon game drive.

    A comparatively quiet session after this morning's excitement. Waterbirds, zebra, and wildebeest. Sat, watched and absorbed.

    Back at sunset for a shower, G&T around the fire, dinner and then more fireside chat. Asked Isaac and Mpho questions and had an interesting session.

    Bed about 10.00 and slept soundly.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 24 Saturday 2 May Savuti

    May 2 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We were awoken at 5.00 by one of the crew bringing hot water for a morning wash. Dressed and breakfasted by 6.00 and on the road soon afterwards as the camp was demolished in preparation for a move to Khwai.

    For the first few hours we went on a game viewing drive in the Savuti area. Again had a great start to the day as we sighted 5 sleepy lionesses. Moved on and learned that 3 cheetahs were close by and we managed to get a good look at them before they disappeared into the undergrowth.

    Next, as we entered some grasslands, we saw huge herds of zebras. Also sighted elephants and giraffe.

    Aftera stop for coffee, we began our move southwards towards Khwai. A very bumpy road, which was either very sandy or scattered with water-filled dips that we either avoided with side roads or attacked in low gear. Very slow progress.

    Stopped for a picnic lunch in the Mababe Depression grasslands under a large camel thorn acacia. A couple of hornbills watched us closely hoping for food.

    Our drive afterwards took us passed swamps and huge colonies of water birds
    Also occasional giraffe, lechwe, wildebeest, and elephants.

    By late afternoon, we had reached the boundary of the Chobe National Park and we entered the Khwai Community concession. Turning north-east, and driving alongside the flooded Khwai River, we reached our camp-site in the early evening It was a new destination (Mogotho Khwai community concession) because the flooded Moremi National Park had been closed to us. A large bull elephant came close to our camp-site and shook the fruit from a tree 20 metres from our tent, before wandering off.

    It had been a hot, bumpy,but interesting, drive so a hot shower was most welcome. A G&T (or two) around the campfire was relaxing and a late dinner followed. Kevin has been an excellent chef, cooking his meals over an open fire.

    By 10.00 everyone was in bed and the camp quiet, apart from the occasional call of an owlet. Slept soundly..    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 25 Sunday 3 May Khwai

    May 3 in Botswana ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Slept soundly until my toes got cold at 4.00.. Wrapped them up and a hour and a half later we were woken by the morning warm water delivery.

    Washed and dressed. Breakfasted at 6.00 and by 6.30 we were out searching for wildlife. Not much to see but the highlight was a small group of tsessebe, something we had not seen before. Morning tea under a large tree overlooking the flooded Khwai River. Some flocks of fowl.water.

    Continued on but saw little before arriving back at came mid-morning. Took the opportunity to catch up with washing and diary writing.. A warm day so retreated to the shade.

    Lunch was at midday and we managed a siesta before departing at 2.00 for a mokoro ride. Drove for about 30 minutes to a new riverside mokoro ride starting point.

    For me, the mokoro ride was a disappointment. Rex, our poler, tried hard and we talked all the way as we progressed upstream through waterlilies. Had a drink on-shore. Rex discussed the content of some elephant droppings with the group. Our return to the starting point was very similar. Saw no wildlife at all.

    Embarked on a game drive at the completion of the mokoro ride. Elephants, zebra, baboons, Found a green algae-covered pool with a hippo in it. Saw a flock of about 20 bright-green Meyer's parrots which brought back memories for Viv of Peter the parrot, the family Meyer's parrot in Kalomo. Watched for a while before heading slowly back to camp at dusk.

    Before entering our tent we became aware of a bull elephant 20 metres away
    Gathered our laundry in haste. Viv also discovered a bushbaby outside our shower wall. Great excitement! Parrot plus bushbaby..

    Shower, sundowner around the campfire, dinner. Bed at 9.00 with the camp very quiet.    Read more

  • Peter CraigA Visit to southern Africa 202Traveler

    Day 26 Monday 4 May Khwai

    May 4 in Botswana ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Up at 5.00 today,breakfast at 5.30 and the tents down before we left.

    Game-viewed until 9.00. Watched baboon mothers climb down a tall tree with their babies. First surprise of the day was a leopard lying on a branch. Watched for a while as it lay sunning itself,, and then it climbed down. Followed it for a while on the ground and achieved some more good sightings.

    Zebra and a large family of mongooses.

    Morning coffee came as a welcome stop. Ooma's rusks. No

    We then abandoned game-viewing as such and set about driving to our next camsite. Bumpy sandy road all the wat to Mababe Village. Looked at the river flowing steadily into the Mababe Depression. The road after that had been graded but after a while it deteriorated into badly destroyed sections and detours into the bush to get around them

    Sankuyo Village and then we found a shady tree off the road and stopped for lunch. Very slow afternoon as we were in no hurry to reach our new camp site in the
    Kazikini community concession. This new camp was not part of the original booked itinerary but the change has been forced on Okavango Expeditions by heavy local rains and flooding, making the Moremi National Park's closure a certainty.

    Arrived in camp late afternoon and unwound, with nobody interested in an evening game drive.

    Hot shower water appeared at 6.00 and then we moved across to the fire and a G&T. Cook Kevin gave us his usual description of the evening meal. Soup, followed by kudu stew and then banoffee for dessert. The 2 cooks have been superb on this trip, cooking over an open fire. Dinner was late so got to bed about 10.00.    Read more