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Sri Lanka
  • Ceri Chaplin
feb. – mar. 2025

Sri Lanka

Intrepid Sri Lanka safari Leer más
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  • Inicio del viaje
    26 de febrero de 2025
    Ceri ChaplinSri LankaViajero
    The Radisson Red hotel
    12

    The journey to Colombo

    26 de febrero, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Our journey started with a lift to the station from Karen and then a train to London. Arriving on time at Paddington we hopped on the next Heathrow Express to Heathrow Central before catching a local bus to our hotel, the Radisson Red.

    After food and a drink we went back to the room to relax and watch some.

    Our first flight to Doha was around 7 hours went by not without incidents. The man in the seat behind Ed you know who you are 12K, was complete a matter twit. Very demanding on the crew and argumentative. He started filming us and became a bit aggressive. Thankfully once the lights went down he went to shut up and we ignored him for the rest of the flight.

    We had a 2-hour layover in Doha so time for a quick drink before our 4-Hour flight to Colombo. After some food immediately after takeoff I spent most of the fly to sleep and we arrived in Colombo at about 8:30 a.m.

    After a long wait for immigration we met our driver to take us to our hotel in Negombo, about 15 miles north of Colombo. Fortunately we were able to check in early and we had couple of hours sleep before heading out.    Leer más

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    Negombo

    28 de febrero, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    After a couple of hours nap at the hotel we woke up and had a shower to freshen up before heading out for a walk to get some cash.

    The hotel, the Jetwing Sea is right on the beach and we walked along the road that runs parallel to the shore. After about 20 mins we found an ATM machine. Armed with some currency we walked back to the hotel stopping in a couple of beach bars on the way.

    Back at the hotel we had time for a quick game of cards before meeting up with the tour group at 6pm.

    The group is a total of 12 people with 6 from the UK, 1 from Ireland, 2 from Canada, 1 American and 2 Australians. After a short briefing we headed off for some dinner at a local restaurant.

    We were back in the hotel by just after 9 and we then had a couple of drinks in the bar with two of our tour group in the bar at the hotel, overlooking a dark beach.    Leer más

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    Traditional Sri Lankan fishing boats2Lunch is served1Croc!Sloth bearCheeky monkeys at a rest stop1Jungle foul2Our 'luxurious' tent!

    Negombo to Willpatu national park.

    1 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    An alarm call at 6pm to give us time for a coffee before breakfast in the beachside restaurant. We needed to be ready for 8am when our bus was leaving for Willpatu national park.

    The roads in Sri Lanka are well made but the driving was slow going because of the other road users....tuktuks, people, cyclists, mopeds and stray dogs all jockeying for position.

    We stopped a few times enroute for a coffee, cash and then eventually, after over 4 hours for lunch. Lunch was arranged at a family run place where a buffet had been put on for us. The food was delicious with rice, curry and various salads finished with fresh fruit for dessert.

    After lunch we drove on for another 20 or so minutes to meet the safari drivers. We transferred in to two jeeps and then went in to the national park. The roads became far less smooth and we drove slowly through the park spotting various animals including plenty of deer, jungle fowl, lizards, birds and an elusive sloth bear.

    The roads were very bumpy and it was a bit of a relief that we arrived back at the main entrance after 4 hours! Sadly we hadn't seen any elephants or leopards.

    We then had a short drive to our accommodation, a tented camp. The tents are pretty well equipped with ensuite facilities. But, by now it was dark and so after a quick visit in our room/tent we congregated in the main eating area where we had a delicious meal consisting of a type of deep fried spring roll covered in breadcrumbs, pumpkin soup and BBQ chicken and pork with rice and veg. Pudding was a sweet orange chocolate cake.

    With an early start in the morning everyone headed for bed after food and we found ourselves back in the tent just after 9.    Leer más

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    Green bee catcherWater buffaloBrown owl!Our 'luxury' tented accommodation.

    Willpatu National Park to Sigiriya

    2 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Yesterday we thought that the 6:00 a.m. alarm calls early. Today was 4:45 a.m. I don't think many of the groups slept well last night. Ed and I certainly didn't. Not sure why but it was compounded by two large bangs that sounded like bombs going off at 2:00 in the morning. Turns out it was probably firecrackers used to keep elephants away.

    Anyway we all met up at 5:15 in the dark ready to catch our Jeeps for a morning Safari. We were in the park by 6:00 a.m. And despite the darkness it was still very warm.

    We spent the best part of 5 hours driving around the park and whilst once again we didn't see elephants or leopards we did see a variety of animals including water buffalo, peacocks, monkeys, crocodiles, lizards and lots of birds.

    We stopped after about 3 hours for some breakfast at the rest point that we'd been to the day before and our selection of food trying to avoid the monkeys who were very cheeky.

    After leaving the rest stop it was about an hour and a half our back to the entrance and then we transferred onto our bus before going back to the camp to collect our bags.

    There was then a 2-hour journey to our next hotel, about 2km outside of Sigiriya, the Oak Ray Fresh water villa. On the way about 20 minutes outside of the village we stopped at a small place for lunch prior to which the owner demonstrated making some Dahl and a spicy coconut side. The food was delicious.

    20 minutes later we were at a hotel where we had a very welcome shower.

    After a short time relaxing we spent an hour or so in the hotel bar area outside having a beer and playing cards. At 6pm we were back on the bus with the group for a 30 minute drive to a wildlife sanctuary in Damballa (Popham arboretum) to try to spot the grey Loris, disputed to be the world's smallest primate.

    Despite it being dark it was still very humid and it took quite some concentration walking around the forest in the dark trying not to trip over tree roots and other obstacles. We were lucky and managed to spot (or at least the guide did) the grey Loris and a mouse deer.

    After about an hour walking we were back at the centre where we had another meal of rice, curry, sambol and veg. Back on the bus, we arrived back at the hotel just after 9.30 and decided that it had been a long day so we'd head to the room to get ourselves sorted for the morning (a 7am departure) and an early night!    Leer más

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    Sri Lanka elephant (elephus maximus maximus)Crested serpent eagle1When Harry met 'Eddie'The hotel and poolHitching a rideSigiriya rock in the distance.... Our first objective tomorrow!Reclining BuddhaBuddha

    Habarana national park

    3 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    It was another early start, although not as bad as yesterday with breakfast at 6.30. we left the hotel at 7 to drive about 30 minutes to the village of Habarna where our safari would be starting. This was in Hurulu eco park.

    After decamping to two open topped and sided keep you're vehicles we spent a couple of hours exploring the park. The roads were very bumpy but the results worth it with our first single elephant followed by a small family walking along through the grass.

    During the trip we also came across another lone male elephant eating at a tree and another group of three walking along the tracks. None seemed particularly bothered but our presence.

    There were numerous other sightings of elephants further into the grass along with some bird life!

    We met back up with our minibus at around 10 am for the journey back to the hotel with a quick stop at a batik 'factory'.

    We spent the next few hours first with a walk along the road to a pharmacy for some insect bite medication and then as the sun was past the yardarm, a beer and some cards in the hotel bar overlooking the pool, along with some snacks to tide us over!

    I had a swim in the pool before we both got ready to meet back up with the group for an extra tour to Dambulla.

    The bus collected us at 3pm to take us the 30 mins to the temple at Dambulla. It was still pretty warm when we arrived so we took our time walking up to the cave complex. Our tour leader took us through the 5 spectacularly decorated caves with dozens of Buddha's in and gave is an explanation in each. It was fascinating although as usual I've probably forgotten most of the detail but I do remember that it was started in the second century BC and the workmanship was impressive.

    After walking back down we had a quick stop in Dambulla before driving back to the hotel. The evening was spent relaxing and everyone did their own thing for food. Ed and I had a few beers in the hotel restaurant along with food. My choice was a lovely devilled beef meal with rice .. Sweet and sour and nicely spicy.

    We went back to the room just after 9 to sort out things out for a 5 am start to climb Sigiriya rock before a long drive to our next stop!    Leer más

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    1Before the climb111Halfway up1111LunchAn elephant we passed enrouteThe elephant at our hotel!

    Sigiriya (Lion) Rock then Arugam Bay

    4 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had a very early start with an alarm at 5:00 a.m. and meeting the group at 5.40am. Onto the bus and we were at Sigiriya Rock by 6 am. After collecting our tickets we started the long walk up to the 180m high rock which had a royal palace built in top of it in the 5th century.

    We started walking through the outer gardens and then to the terraces before starting to climb steeply up some original marble stairs. The stairs weren't very wide and were quite steep so it was pretty hard work even at that time of the morning, with the humidity.

    About halfway up, the stairs turned into more modern ones but the going didn't get him easier. The stairs were still narrow and uneven.

    About 2/3 of the way up we got to what used to be a magnificent entrance carved like a lion with its paws outstretched. Much of the lion has disappeared but at least one paw remained.

    Fortunately we had now rounded the rock and there was a cool breeze blowing which helped to take the heat off.

    Final third of the climb was again man-made and this time on metal stairs that clung to the side of the rock face. For the first part, the hand rail was quite low and I was glad that I don't get vertigo that badly! On we went up with a steady stream of people coming the other way. After about 10 minutes we turned the corner and went up some final original steps to the top of the rock and to the remains of the royal palace.

    We spent about 15 minutes exploring the top including the throne and a large bathing pool. They believe that even as far back as it was built they had running water although no one knows how they got the water up there.

    The journey down followed a similar route to about halfway down and then we turned left along the rock face, descending before going up some spiral stairs into a cave where there were remains of elaborate cave paintings. Our guide told us that the whole of the rock face would have originally been covered in frescoes. I don't envy the person who had to paint those originally.

    We carried on down to eventually get to the car park where our bus was waiting and we drove the short journey back to the hotel. By now it was still only 8:30 a.m. we had about an hour and a half before we needed to leave so after breakfast we had a shower and got our stuff ready.

    The journey today we knew was going to be long and so it turned out to be. After about 2 1/2 hours we stopped at a beautiful hotel on the banks of a lake where we had a delicious lunch of Sri Lankan curry.

    We continued the drive through miles and miles of Paddy Fields interspersed with small settlements and larger towns. After another brief stop and we continued on and eventually arrived in Arugam Bay at 6:00 p.m. where we checked into our hotel the Blue Wave.

    After a freshen up we wandered down thinking about going out but bumped into one of our group and ended up having a couple of beers in the hotel bar with them.

    After that we thought we might explore the town... It's out of season at the moment and so pretty quiet everywhere. The Thai hotel with a beerkeller was getting refurbished so we ended up just waking along the main road there, having a pizza in a place opposite and we were back in our room by 9.30pm.

    No early start tomorrow so it'll be a leisurely start!    Leer más

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    Plastic waste ☹️Our safari jeep13Mr leopardWild boar1ElephantBlack napped hare1A beautiful sunsetNot my photo, but one taken by one of our groupCatching a fish1

    Kumana national park (Arugam Bay)

    5 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It was nice to have a lazy start this morning and do after a 'no alarm' wake up at 7.30 ish, a coffee in bed and breakfast in the hotel, after which we left the hotel for a wander.

    It was very warm and we stopped alomg the road for a coffee before crossing and walking down a side street to the beach. Here we saw fishing boats and the long curving bay where in season surfers are attracted.

    We walked along the beach and sadly saw lots of plastic debris. It has certainly made me think about how we use plastic at home and what we buy.

    Next we went back to the hotel and played some cards sat on our balcony until just after 12. We decided that at this point it was time to have a beer so we moved our game down to the bar.

    At 1.30 we all congregated at reception to board the bus to take us to Kumana national park. The journey there took 30 mins and at this point we changed to two safari jeeps. It took around an hour to get to the entrance to the park, partly because the other vehicle had a puncture which needed to be sorted.

    When we arrived at the park, after a quick break, we headed through the gates. The roads were not as bad as in other national parks we've been to, but still pretty bumpy.

    We spent the next few hours driving around the park and were so lucky to see lots of birds, lizards, wild boar, an elephant and a beautiful leopard.

    All too soon it was time to head back as the park closes at 6pm with fines for drivers who arrive at the gates late. We got back with about a minute to spare. The next hour took us back to the bus for the 30 minute drive back to the hotel. Here most of the group met for food and a drink or two before retiring for bed just after 9.15 to get some sleep for our earliest start yet...4am!    Leer más

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    Painted storkElephant number 1Strutting his stuffElephant number 211A quick snack11

    Kumama to near Yala national park

    6 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our earliest start yet with a 4am alarm call. This saw is meeting with the group at 4.30am to get the bus to the national park.

    The journey took about 30 minutes where we met the Jeeps and then it was another 50 or so minutes to the entrance to the park. In contrast to other places we've been, both yesterday and today the park seems to be completely devoid of most other safaris. We were one of only about four vehicles to go through the gate at 6:00 a.m. and we hardly saw any other vehicles whilst we were there so it felt like we had the whole park to ourselves. Despite the early start it was also lovely to see the dawn slowly appearing and the sunrising.

    We took a similar route to the one that we'd done the day before and spotted lots of small wildlife on the way including deer lizards and water buffalo.

    We passed the point at which we'd seen the leopard yesterday and a bit further on we stopped because there was a male elephant in the middle of the road walking towards us. He didn't look particularly happy to see us but he carried on walking and eventually turned off just before he got to our vehicles but we've managed to get some great shots.

    We carried on before eventually needing to turn back because the road was quite rutted after all of the rain. On the way back we came across another bull elephant. He was even less happy to see us than the first one and refused to get out of the way but also made it clear that he didn't want us to go past. After some time and some manoeuvring of the vehicles the Jeep ahead of us with half our group in it got past and then he did a false charge at it. Fortunately he then decided to head off to the right and into the bushes to start eating which meant we could go past. All very exciting and the video here is probably not suitable for children!

    We carried on before turning off the main track which took us through some bushes and down to a beach where we had some breakfast that we'd bought with us.

    By now it was time to start heading out of the park and so we thought we weren't going to see a leopard that day. However about 5 minutes from the entrance our guide stopped because there were monkeys in the tree. They started making lots of warning noises and he followed their line of sight to find a leopard about 10 m away in the bushes. We stopped and watched her for a little while and then amazingly a male leopard came along. They were clearly very friendly and there was lots of purring that you could hear. However the male leopard wasn't done and it was clearly time for them to mate, all captured on camera and video. What a special sighting.

    Very satisfied with our morning's efforts we reversed our journey from before getting back to the hotel at about 11:30 and then we about an hour to shower change before we had a 4-Hour trip to our next place.

    We stopped about 2 hours into the journey for a quick snack at a local roadside place. And containing carrot leeks and banana flowers.

    The last bit of the journey was a shortcut which the drive had initially been unhappy to do because there are often elephants on the road. True to form we ended up passing two elephants very closely and our drivers tactic was to stay very close to a much larger bus in front of us. The first elephant in particular was a massive bull elephant but we were going a bit fast to be able to capture a picture of him.

    We arrived at the hotel just before 5:00 and after dumping our stuff had a couple of drinks overlooking the pool and a lake and we were treated to an amazing sunset.

    We all reconvened at 7: 30 for the dinner that was provided which was a buffet style with a good selection of different things and after spending some time chatting we were back in our room for 9:30 for a relatively early night because of yet another early start in the morning.    Leer más

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    12Leopard pug marks1Chaos1An unhappy 🐘☹️2Grey heronCormorant1Flying foxes!

    Tissa Lake and Yala national park

    7 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Yet another early start, this time a 4.30 alarm for a 5am departure to Yala national park.

    The journey to the local town took 30 minutes and then we transferred into 4x4s for another 30 minute ride to the park entrance.

    In contrast to Kumana, Yala is very busy. We were at least the 20th jeep in the queue to get in! Once in, we drove slowly through the park (whilst other jeeps raced past). There were loads of other 4x4s around trying to find animals. It was a far less relaxing experience.

    We saw lots of birds and some crocodiles along with other small mammals but nothing to compare with the sights we'd seen the day before.

    After a couple of hours we headed to a communal area, near the beach to have our packed breakfast consisting of sandwiches, fruit, two cakes and a boiled egg.

    The group had already decided to forego the afternoon safari and so we spent the remainder of the morning driving slowly around the park. Just after leaving the rest stop we followed a trail of other jeeps who had seen some elephants crossing the road. It was a bit of a melee and all felt a bit uncomfortable although these particular elephants didn't seem that perturbed.

    Just around the corner we came across a lone female elephant who sadly had been a bit trapped in by lots of other jeeps. She was not happy and the drivers didn't seem ready to move out of the way to allow her along the road. Eventually through a series of her pushing other Jeeps and gently kicking them and some drivers realising that she needed space a path cleared and she was allowed through. It was really all very sad and despite the fact that this was the closest I ever came to seeing an elephant on this tour it all felt a bit wrong. We were chatting to the tour leader afterwards and he said that they really needed to limit the number of Jeeps they're allowed into the park each day but maybe that's for the future.

    The next 90 minutes or so was spent heading towards the exit and after meeting up with our bus we arrived back at the hotel just after midday.

    We had a relaxing afternoon having a couple of beers playing cards and looking at the view before most of the group met up again to go for an evening boat ride onto lake Tissa.

    We spent about an hour cruising around the lake on a small boat with the driver/skipper pointing out various bird life. We also saw how some locals also use the lake for washing and cleaning!

    Just as we were heading back to the jetty at our hotel the sun set behind some distant clouds!

    After pre dinner drinks we had another buffet meal in the restaurant before heading to our room at 9.30.    Leer más

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    Indian brown mongooseEurasian hoopooBlue tailed bee eater

    Bundala National park to Tangalla

    8 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We had a slightly later start this morning with a 6:30 alarm to be ready for breakfast at 7 :00 and then leave that towel at 7:30 .

    I'll first stop was Bundala National park. This area was far far quieter than Yala and is an area which has a number of mammals although no leopards along with a rich bird life.

    The journey to the park took about 40 minutes and then we transferred to more Jeeps and spent about 3 hours roaming the park. We saw loads of different bird types and lizards along with two different types of monkey but sadly no elephants and certainly no leopards.

    Once back at the bus we began the journey to our next stop. About 15 minutes alone we stopped at a long line of shops or selling the same sort of thing to sample some Sri Lankan sweets. A number of a bought some sweets to take back - I hope my colleagues enjoy them!!

    We continued on our journey with our leader looking for somewhere to have some lunch. We had a very brief stop to see a water monitor lizard which was the first one of these type that we'd seen. Shan also pointed out some development in one of the towns that we went through on the way paid for by Chinese money at large interest rates and which are now sitting empty!

    After about 90 minutes we arrived at A small roadside restaurant with lovely views right onto the beach. Here we ate lunch which was a bit of a slow process but worth the wait. Another local who was clearly pleased we'd stopped.

    From here it was about 20 minutes to our hotel and we arrived at around 3:30.

    The hotel is a resort right on the beach and probably the nicest Sri Lankan hotel that we've stayed in so far. We've got a large balcony on our room overlooking the beach.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and having some drinks by the pool with other travellers before having a meal at the restaurant and then retiring to bed.    Leer más

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    3Visiting turtleTurtle watching projectEgg layingCovering the nestHeading back to the seaHermit crabs

    Tangalla

    9 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was a lazy day. We had no plans until the scheduled turtle watching trip later in the evening.

    We had a lazy start with breakfast after a coffee in the room. After breakfast and a shower we headed out for a bit of a walk, not too far, first left along the beach from the hotel and then back right past the hotel to a small cove.

    It was very hot and so after about an hour we returned to the hotel.

    We spent the rest of the day variously playing cards, having lunch and then late in the afternoon a trip back to the small cove where we'd heard that some turtles were swimming around in the water. We were really lucky and spotted one large, we think leatherback, just around in the shallows in the fading light.

    We then had some food and met the restaurant group at 8:15 for a short bus ride a turtle watching project. We waited around for a short amount of time before we heard that there was a turtle on the beach heading up to lay eggs.

    We were taking with a larger group along the beach and we waited until she had dug her. Once she had done this we were able to watch her first laying eggs and then covering the eggs. Unfortunately she managed to get herself stuck underneath a root and so with some help from the guides she was released.

    She then spent the next hour or so first covering the eggs and then disguising her whole by making another one before she slowly made the journey back to the sea where she disappeared into the waves. It was a pretty special thing to see.

    We arrive back at the hotel at gone 11 and it was time to head to bed.    Leer más

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    Tangalla to Colombo via Galle

    10 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our last full day in Sri Lanka and we started with breakfast at 7:15 and left the hotel at 8 bound for Galle.

    For the first time in a few days it was raining but still very warm. The roots took us more or less along the coast and we passed through Mirissa, a seasonal surfing area and indeed we could see many surfers out on the water.

    After about 3 hours we arrived in Galle, A fortress town which was initially Portuguese then Dutch from the 18th century and finally British from the early 19th century before Sri Lanka became independent in 19 48.

    The old town is walled with battlements originally constructed by the Dutch and inside the walls are a maze of narrow streets and shops. We spent almost 2 hours exploring before meeting up with the rest of the group again for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the harbour.

    After lunch we had another hour's drive before we stopped again at a moonstone mine and cinnamon farm. Here we were treated to seeing the mind from above and how they search for the moonstone once they have brought the material to the surface. After a few of our group visited the shop we pressed on for Colombo.

    About another 90 minutes we were in Columbus rush hour traffic and before we headed to the hotel we had a quick stop at a tea shop. Shortly after we arrived at our hotel at around 7:00 p.m.

    At this point we said goodbye to our driver his mate and our guide and once checked in we showered before meeting the rest of the group for one final meal.

    We both had a delicious Kottu curry and once our goodbyes were said we had one final King beer sitting on the 10th floor balcony over looking the city.    Leer más

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    Colombo to Madrid

    11 de marzo, Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We were up for breakfast and out of the hotel by 8:00 to catch an Uber to the airport.

    We checked in and there were no issues with our flights and we left on time at 11:15, arriving in Doha about 30 minutes early.

    With almost 12 hours to wait for our onward flight to Madrid, I had booked a tour to the desert and after clearing customs and collecting our bags we waited in the arrivals hall. With no sign of our booked tour I made some enqueries and it turned out that the tour had not been booked and they weren't able to offer anything else.

    Faced with the prospect of sitting around doing nothing and with no bars landslide because of Ramadan we decided that we would head into Doha city and explore ourselves. Frustratingly there were no left luggage facilities at Doha airport but I found one about four metro stops along so booked our bags in for a few hours. We took some metro dropped our bags and then headed for the Souk.

    We wandered around the souk for a bit and then to the waterfront called the Corniche. There were lots of people milling around as by now it was almost time for sunset and breaking of the fast. There were big countdown timers counting down the exact time to sunset and we waited with the gathered crowds for the timer to hit zero at which point a large cannon-like gun fired and very loud bang signalled sunset. In the surrounding area there are families with their picnics laid out ready to break the fast.

    Beyond this we didn't feel that there was very much more to see in Doha - note to self to avoid any future long layovers there - and so we retraced our steps to collect our luggage and then I ordered an Uber back to the airport.

    We still had 3 hours to kill and I managed to get us back into the arrivals lounge for two of those where we sat around playing cards and eventually, at just before 10:00 p.m, we were able to check our bags in and go through. Our plane left in time for the leg to Madrid.    Leer más

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    Fin del viaje
    12 de marzo de 2025