• Pedalling Pipey

Euro Bike Tour

71-dniowa przygoda według Pedalling Pipey Czytaj więcej
  • Day 22-Toulouse to Carcassonne, 35 miles

    7 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After yesterdays windy day it was more the same today. Now the canal may look pretty but as a cyclist it can get pretty boring pretty quick so I decided to jump up onto the roads and go through some of the small villages and towns. Only problem with this was the roads were even more exposed to the wind so after a few miles it was back to the canal and head down.

    By early afternoon and I'd had enough and had arrived in Carcassonne, a medival town famous for its 53 watchtowers and double walled fortifications making it a world heritage site so good place to stop have a wander around and a few beers watching the football.

    With the plan to head to the coast tomorrow and with the weather looking even worse with rain as well as the wind it could be interesting.
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  • Day 23-Carcassonne to Cap DAgde, 64miles

    8 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Wet Wet Wet!

    Well if I'm honest not a lot to say about today apart from the head wind was still there and had now been joined but a constant drizzle. The kind that soaks you through as a famous comedian once said!

    After leaving Carcassonne I headed to Narbonne loosely following the Canal du Midi but now by road as the tow path was now only really suitable for mountain bikes. It was then onto Cap D'Agde and my first site of the Med.

    In summary 64 very wet, windy and pretty boring miles and a day that definetly won't be making the top 10. Weather not looking great for next few days so could be a good time to get some miles in.

    Sorry for lack of photos but there really wasn't much to capture and I was too wet to bother.

    P.s. Great to hear and then see on everyone's FB the 25 degrees and glorious sun London had today ;-)
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  • Day 24 - Cap D'Agde to Nimes, 62 miles

    9 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Wet Wet Wet take 2!!!

    With the weather exactly the same as yesterday it was another head down and ride day. Slightly more to see today with a great ride along the beach to Sete inbetween the dunes on a custom made bike path. On a good day it would be beautiful and imagine the beach packed. Today I passed one mad old guy out for a run and had a stray dog follow me for about a mile. Also spotted a village for maybe my next holiday and had a couple of miles along a very dodgy river path after a slight map error. Still all very enjoyable and it definitely beat a Monday morning in the office!

    After Sete it was a case of skirting round Montpellier (on a good day I would have probably spent a couple of hours there) and onto the ancient Roman town of Nimes with its double tiered amphitheatre dating to around 70 A.D. and numerous other Roman monuments.

    Arriving in the worst of the weather they will have to wait for tomorrow where after a good few miles over the last few days I will be giving myself a day out of the saddle and some rest before I start making my way to Avignon and then tackling the famous Mont Ventoux!
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  • Day 25 - Transition Day

    10 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Nimes to Avignon via a 30 minute train

    No miles riden today as I had a chilled morning exploring Nimes and visited the very impressive Roman amphitheatre which is still used today for all kind of events including bull fighting.

    From Nimes it was a short train ride to Avignon set on the River Rhone. Very interesting walled town with the huge Palais des Papes which I will explore tomorrow. Like this place and I will be using it as the starting point for about a week cycling round the southern Provence area, Mont Ventoux then down to the French Riviera.

    Time for a few beers tonight with an American and couple from Chiswick so we will see how the head is in the morning.
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  • Day 26 - Rest Day, Avignon

    11 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Very relaxed day off the bike in Avignon. A little wander around then most of the afternoon spent on the laptop in the cafe planning the next couple of weeks cycling around Provence and French Riviera.

    First view of Mont Ventoux today. 30 miles away and looks massive. Can't wait!
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  • Day 27 - Avignon to Bedoin, 48 miles

    12 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After a couple of days resting the knees it's great to be back on the bike especially as at the start of a leg of the trip I've really been looking forward to. Two weeks deep in French Provence with classic climbs, deep canyons, rolling vineyards and hilltop villages all before the clifftops and beaches of the French Riviera.

    To makes things even better the wind and rain of the last week has now gone and although still a bit cloudy the sun has been trying to poke it's head out.

    The day started with a ride straight north following the River Rhone to the town of Orange which you have to say in your strongest French accent to get anywhere near right with the pronouncition. Small town but home to a huge Roman Theatre dating from the 1st century A.D. After a little recce the best vantage point seemed to be the cliffs behind so a quick ride up there and scramble gave a great photo looking down.

    From Orange it was out to Bedoin a beautiful village at the foot of the famous Mont Ventoux and my bed for the evening. With nothing anywhere near its height Ventoux stands out for miles and gets bigger and bigger the closer you get! With Ventoux meaning windy in French (it averages 56+ mph plus 240 days a year at the top) it's very weather dependent so fingers crossed for tomorrow.

    Either way I've just demolished a large pizza, garlic bread and chocolate mousse whilst writing this so I'm definitely fuelled up.
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  • Day 28 - Bédoin, 34 miles

    13 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Well the weather gods were not on my side today as I awoke to thick cloud and rain covering the top half of Mont Ventoux with no sign of it moving. With only die hards and people here for only one day going up I'll keep my fingers crossed for the morning and some sun.

    With a quick bit of research I found a nice ride out towards Sault via a small village called Flassan. The road twisted up through the forest to about 950 metres (about half Mont Ventoux) and with the weather starting to draw in I soon found myself riding in the clouds and rain. With the weather not improving and hopefully a big ride tomorrow I decided to call it a day and descend back down and wow was the descent cold.

    As I rolled back into Bedoin I bumped into a group of English club riders I'd met the night before and my decision to not climb Ventoux today was justified. Not sure if I've ever seen a group of fit clearly very good cyclists look so broken both physically and mentally. As they all stood there shivering they described the ride as horrific with freezing rain and gale force head winds once in the clouds. With the same 60kph winds but sun predicted tomorrow it will hopefully at least be a little warmer.
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  • Day 29 - Mont Ventoux, 40 miles

    14 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Wow what a day in the saddle in some of the most beautiful and testing conditions I've ever riden in.

    Climbs do not come much more famous than Mont Ventoux and a ride I had marked very early on when planning this trip. At 1911 meters and as previously mentioned it is considerably higher than anything else around and despite blue sky everywhere the top was still covered in cloud so as I left Bedoin on the route made famous by the Tour de France I had fingers crossed it would be clear by the time I got to the top.

    After Bedoin and a couple of miles steadily climbing through the vineyards of Provence you take a sharp left and head up into the forest. This is the steepest section of the ride and real granny gear riding. I'd left early but the road was still busy with cyclists and as I climbed on my heavy aluminium Cyclo-cross bike with a pannier full of ham and cheese baguettes and in my board shorts and t-shirt I gave a smug bonjour to each lycra clad carbon riding cyclist I overtook. Sadly most of them had been riding for more years than I'd had hot dinners and it was not long before the young club riders were giving me a smug bonjour as they passed although I did get a few nods of admiration.

    The end of the forest and the tree line you are greeted by Le Chalet Reynard a cafe marking the start of the final third. It would normally be easier from here but now out of the shelter of the forests were hit by the predicted strong winds. With them coming straight over the top in was going to be a tough last few miles. The bonus out of the forest was the view across the valley which is simply stunning.

    It wasn't until the last couple of miles that I reached the cloud cover and wow what a change in temperature and weather. The wind was now gale force and tough to stay on the bike. Making friends with a Dutch rider we stayed together the last couple of miles just trying to keep enough forward movement into the wind not to fall over. The final sharp right turn a few meters short of the summit and a huge gust did me and the Dutchman and only a quick clip out and foot down saved both of us. We then saw about 20 other cyclists all watching who been watching it happened to every cyclist coming up with a few not clipping out quick enough apparently.

    With the summit reached and a chill factor of -3 I didn't hang around the top long. The descent especially the first 2 miles in the cloud was freezing and one of the scariest things I've ever done. With everyone averaging about 10mph and one foot down to balance against the wind I was relieved to clear the clouds and at least be able to see further than 30 yards. The wind was still very strong which unfortunately meant no full head down descending but still great fun even if very scary.

    After a hot chocolate in the cafe to try and get feeling back in my fingers and bones it was quick descent through the forest to pick my gear up from the hotel and on another 15 miles to Saint Didier where Im staying tonight. This is real 'A Good Year' (if you've seen the film) scenery with vineyards and small villages for as far as you can see.

    After a great dinner and a few drinks with some Belgium cyclists it's time for bed after a magically box ticking day.
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  • Day 30 - Saint-Didier to Apt, 44 miles

    15 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    After yesterday's climbing into the clouds today was perfectly blue (although still very windy) and looking 15/20 odd miles back to Ventoux the top was shining in the sunlight like my bald spot under a spotlight. For a few seconds I did think about heading back to do it again but with accommodation booked and to be frank the thought of that wind again I pressed on further into Provence.

    First stop was L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue a beautiful town which also happens to have the largest Sunday market in the Provence area of France. It's a food, flea and antique market and takes over the town with stalls down ever lane, in ever square and along the stream that winds through the town. If you're a potterer it is pottering heaven. With live French music and the cafes and restaurants buzzing you could easily spend a whole day taking in the sights, sounds and smells all with some great food and wine.

    After a longer lunch stopped than planned I headed out of town and picked up a completed part of the EuroVelo 8 cycle route which mostly uses an old railway line now converted to a cycle and walkway. With no traffic and vineyards and fields full of poppies either side it was an easy and very picturesque ride through the Luberon valley.

    I did take one diversion and that was upto the stunning hill side town of Bonnieux. Well worth the extra burn on the thighs to get there as not only is it a beautiful old town with twisting steep lanes but it offers amazing views across the valley and as far back to Mont Ventoux that was still teasing me with its white top shining in the sunshine. The local football team also have one of the best settings for a pitch to run round on a Sunday morning I've seen. Definitely beats an away day at Cranleigh!

    After a short ride to Apt past more vineyards and chateaus including the Chateaux La Canorgue (where they apparently do a great wine tasting, just not on Sundays!) which was used in A Good Year it was time to call it a day.

    With a huge fun fair this evening in Apt it's time for a wander and some pasta and wine. Some big rides coming up through the Verdon Gorge (Europe's answer to the Gran Caynon) so its going to be an early one tonight.
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  • Day 31 - Apt to Manosque, 27 miles

    16 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    With another bank holiday in France (they have 4 or 5 just in May) most places were closed including all the Chateauxs for wine tasting that I was thinking of visiting today. So instead I would treat the short ride to Manosque as a semi-rest day and take my time. With flip flops on whilst riding, to try and even up the tan as it currently looks like I'm permanently wearing ankle socks, I set off under another blue sky day.

    Picking up the old railway line then the back roads I weaved along the valley through the vineyards and soon to be fields of lavender (slightly too early for these but wow will it look even more stunning in a few weeks) it was another tough Monday morning ;-)

    The highlight of the ride was the climb to Col du Montfuron before descending down to Manosque. From the windmill at the top you can see for miles. From Mont Ventoux behind me (completely clear again to rub it in), to the Alps to the north, to Gorge du Verdon to the east (destination for the next 4 days) and the French Riviera to the south. Simply stunning and a real moment to take it all in and think how far I've already travelled.

    Going to be a tough day tomorrow to Aiguines with 40+ miles and over 1000 meters of climbing all with fully loaded panniers to cover and with another blue sky day predicted it's going to be a hot one. Early start tomorrow I think!
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  • Day 32 - Manosque to Aiguines, 45 miles

    17 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Just when I thought France couldn't get more stunning it does. The ride from Manosque to Aiguines is certainly a thigh burner with over 1300 meters of climbing with fully loaded panniers I was pleased I took it easy yesteday.

    With the climbing though you get the views and the views along the plateau around Valensole are well worth it. Living in London you can forget how big the sky can be if that makes sense. With 360 degrees of views and well over 50 miles in any direction its a real moment to take a step back and try and take it all in.

    After Valensole and past Riez it is very up and down until you reach the mountains and roll down the most stunning valley and to the entrance (or exit to be more precise) of Gorge to Verdon. With the turquoise waters of lake Sainte-Croix behind you and the huge cliffs of the gorge in front of you it is a simply stunning setting. With the highest peak nearly 1 and 1/2 times the height of Ben Nevis the scale and size of the place does not come across in photos.

    The final climb of the day was from the bridge in picture 3 (very small) and picture 4 upto the beautiful mountain side village of Aiguines at about 800 meters and my starting point for tomorrow's ride to Castellane along the cliff top roads through the gorge.
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  • Day 33-Aiguines to Castellane, 35 miles

    18 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Wow what a day! If you have not been here you have to add Gorge du Verdon to your list. Only 55 miles from Nice and it is one of the most stunning places I have ever been and to ride it on the trusty Condor made it even more special. MJ big thanks for the recommendation!

    Unless you have been here the scale does not come across in the photos. It's called the Gran Canyon of Europe and for a good reason. The ride as a result was not easy with over 500 meters of climbing in the first 6km out off Aiguines alone. With sections over 10% and with fully loaded panniers it certainly gets the blood pumping.

    From here it is one stunning view point after another as the road follows the gorge/canyon about half way up. About half way the south side that I rode dives in land then picks the caynon back up at river level giving stunning views looking up. You eventually reach Castellane which is dominated by a huge rock with a chapel at the top.

    A real thought provoking day and a ride I won't forget in a hurry. After a few incredible days on the bike it's a day off tomorrow. So what better way to spend it than go white water rafting through the canyon I've just riden along.
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  • Day 34 - Castellane

    19 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Swapped the road for the river today with a 'rest day' white water rafting along the Verdon River and through the canyon.

    Great to see the canyon from the ground up and great to get a different adrenaline rush off the bike. The Verdon is not the biggest of rapids but does have its moments and Karl our guide gave us a great day adding in some mini canyoning as well as covering nearly 25km along the river.

    Chilled evening tonight in Castellane under the rock then long ride to the coast tomorrow.
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  • Day 35-Castellane to St Maxime, 64 miles

    20 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well what I thought was going to be a real A to B day turned out to be a great ride. Another 1000+ meters of climbing but when you start in the mountains and finish at the sea there's always going to be more down than up and with nearly 2000 meters of descending all the climbing over the last few days was well rewarded.

    I was also given a fantastic guided tour of the French hills and towns by local resident and very keen cyclist Howard who I met whilst riding today. A retired Englishman he and his wife now spend 6 months a year at their hill side villa in Claviers and count the Beckhams when they are in town as neighbours, whos place he pointed out (well the gate at least). After being invited for lunch I couldn't refuse and had a great 2 hours talking about bikes, their lives, living in France and much more. A lovely couple who I could have spent all afternoon chatting with but the coast at Saint-Maxime was calling so I left them drinking wine and eating cheese in the sunshine on their terrace overlooking their pool and the hillside village. I'm very much starting to see the attraction of this place!

    From theirs it was 25 or so miles to St Maxime and my starting point for a few chilled days along the French Riviera. With not much more than about 20 miles to cover each day as I my make my way towards Monaco for next Thursday it's going to be more holiday than touring for a week!
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  • Day 36 - St Maxime & St Tropez, 24 miles

    21 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Start of the beach leg of the tour today with a nice relaxed ride round to Saint-Tropez from Sainte Maxime and back again. Some serious yachts in both harbours especially St Tropez and with Cannes Festival still on their were even bigger moored out at sea. Money money money!!!

    The evening was all about cup finals with Utd beating an unlucky Palace in the FA Cup then the big one for the French with Marseille taking on PSG in the French equivalant and wow are PSG hated down here. Ended up spending most of the evening chatting a Fresh couple from Marseille who were away for the weekend planning their wedding later this year. After a fair few watching the football I was invited to visit and Facebook details were swapped. This for them bought great laughter as it turns out Pipe in French means a certain type of 'job'! I had wondered why I'd always gotten a strange look when checking into hotels!

    Short ride round to Frejus and Saint Raphael tomorrow and a bit more beach time.
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  • Day 37 - St Maxime to Fréjus, 15 miles

    22 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Very short ride today along the coast which with this mornings hangover was about all I could manage. Morning started watching an international paddle board race in the bay round Sainte-Maxime with a strong coffee then the ride to Frejus and once there a couple of hours dozing on the beach.

    Very relaxed day and wouldn't rush back to Frejus. Nice old town with a Roman Amphitheatre which is worth a visit but the front is where Frejus very much becomes the Bognor Regis of the French Riviera. Apologies to anyone from BR.
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  • Day 38 - Frejus to Antibes, 34 miles

    23 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Stunning ride along the rocky coastline of the French Riviera today all with the snow capped Alps in the background. Very up and down ride as you dive down to one bay then climb back up and dive down to the next. Very very windy though with gusts of 40mph+ so the beaches despite the blue sky and 20+ degrees were empty.

    Some of the houses along the the coastline are incredible and the bike is a great way to see then all and be nosey. Where do these people get there money!? Cannes was the biggest town and good place for lunch and wander around. The film festival finished yesterday so the whole place was being dismantled. Plenty of tourists still around though and the famous red carpet was still in place.

    Antibes was my destination for the evening and beautiful old town which is buzzing due to having one of the biggest ports in the area. Also where all the boat crews stop, party and try and get work. Had a good night with a few of them and interesting listening to their stories from the guts working and having Dicaprio party on their yacht during Cannes to the guys still trying to find work. Some serious wedge available though for the guys who get work.

    Short ride to Nice tomorrow that I can already see round the bay and looking forward to spending a couple of days there.
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  • Day 39 - Antibes to Nice, 28 miles

    24 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Suns out, flip flops on and nice flat ride round to Nice today. Not a massive amount to see on the way round but good cycle path. Having visited Nice before I found a great spot at Fort du Mont Alban which after getting to Nice pretty quick I decided to ride to. Pretty steep climb there but offers great views back across Nice and over the other side looking East towards Villefrance-sur-Mer and the uber exclusive area of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.

    Very much in holiday mood and after a short spell on the beach the evening was spent having a few chilled drinks on the front then in the old town area of Nice with a few people id met in the hostel.
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  • Day 41 - Monaco

    26 maja 2016, Monako ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Well it's not everday you get to party on a yacht in Monaco harbour when the Formula One cars are in town! First off must say a huge thank you to Smithy Jnr and Snr for the invite. Amazing day and evening guys.

    From arriving into the harbour and yacht via speedboat, to chilling out watching the F1 practice session from the top deck, to the amazing food, to the live band on the back of the boat, to the endless flow of drink, to having F1 driver Felipe Nasr and the Sauber guys on board, to the sun being out all day and to the great company it really was an incredible day.
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  • Day 42 - Monaco

    27 maja 2016, Monako ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    After yesterday's incredible party on the yacht today was a much calmer affair with the day spent in Monaco watching the GP2 (surprisingly a lot louder than F1) race and the Porshe Supercup. With some great seats in the stands we managed to get up very close to the cars and pits and after the racing was finished got the chance to walk the track before they opened the roads again to the public.

    Headed back to Nice this evening and with yesterday catching up on me it's an early night to recharge for the weekend.
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  • Day 43 - Nice to Eze to Nice, 43 miles

    28 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After making the decision to get the train to Grenoble to spend a few days riding in the French Alps and then through Switzerland rather than head into Italy (very hard decision and came down to the fact I really need to start heading in the direction of home!) I have a couple of days in Nice due to the train schedule.

    As a result went for a great ride today up into the hills around Nice then upto Eze a stunning hilltop town with tiny narrow lanes and incredible views out to sea. After the morning ride it was time for some beach time and I'd heard great things about Cap-d'Ail towards Monaco. A beach you have to drop down to and once there you are surrounded by high cliffs and crystal clear water. A couple of very cool beach clubs sit in the middle of the beach so ideal for a boozy afternoon.

    After the beach it was a good ride back along the coast to Nice and few drinks watching the Champions League final. Heavy rain predicted tomorrow so I see a good planning day coming on.
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  • Day 44 - Nice

    29 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Well the weatherman sadly didn't disappoint as pretty apocalyptic weather today and with the train to Grenoble booked for tomorrow it was a pretty chilled and relaxed day in Nice.

    Did venture out for a quick run along the front in the rain at one point otherwise rest of the day was in the hostel planning next few weeks. That is until the evening cleard up and was able to go for a quick wander anf take a few shots. Czytaj więcej

  • Day 45-Nice to Imperia(Italy), 62 miles

    30 maja 2016, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Well complete last minute change of plan today. Was supposed to get the 10.55am train to Grenoble but after looking at the weather there and at Alpe d'Huez for next couple of days and seeing rain and lightening bolts I've decide to postpone for a couple of days. Instead as the weather is still cracking here I thought I would head into Italy.

    With no where booked for the night I thought I would just ride along the coast and see where I ended up. Being able to change plans and just ride with complete freedom really is an amazing feeling and something I would recommend everyone should do at some point. It doesnt have to be on a bike. It could be a car, motorbike or just your own two feet.

    Anyway with the last stretch of the French Riviera negotiated the border to Italy loomed just after Menton. Almost straight away you see a change. The landscape is very similar and by no means a poor area there isn't the wealth here as there is a few miles back in France. Sanremo was maybe one exception as you could tell this was a real holiday destination with large yachts in the harbour and beach clubs and bars along the front.

    From Sanremo to San Lorenzo al Mer there is a 15 mile cycleway along the old coastal railway line. A dream for any cyclist and with many of the carbon lycra gang out it was a popular route. Stunning views, mile long tunnels and zero cars it was a great stretch.

    At about 5pm and around 60 miles I'd reached the town of Imperia. Very nice coastal hill side town if that makes sense. A quick look on booking.com and I found a great last minute deal at a resort in the hills with pool and stunning views for the same price of a hostel. So it was booked and I headed for a swim before dinner and good nights sleep in a king size bed!
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  • Day 46 - Imperia to Nice, 60 miles

    31 maja 2016, Francja ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a great nights sleep and quick morning dip in the pool it was time to head back to Nice to get the train* tomorrow morning and sadly leave this very brief visit to Italy. I think Italy is going to have to be its own tour at some point!

    Great news as I arrived back to Nice and checked my emails. Another French rail strike and tomorrows train cancelled!!! With no other options for trains until next week with the bike and riding further into Italy difficult due to time getting back home I've decided to hire a car tomorrow and drive the 250 odd miles to Grenoble.
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