• Pedalling Pipey
Apr – Jun 2016

Euro Bike Tour

Pengembaraan 71hari oleh Pedalling Pipey Baca lagi
  • Permulaan perjalanan
    16 April 2016

    Arrival, Cherbourg

    16 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    OK so here we go. After last night's sleepless night at The Queens Hotel in Bournemouth, due to an over 60's Tango Weekend at the hotel, it was a rushed start and a very quick 6 mile ride to the ferry port in Poole. Made the ferry by the skin of my teeth and now had 4 hours to kick back relax and plan this little 10 week tour!Baca lagi

  • Day 1 - Cherbourg to Carentan, 39 miles

    16 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After being told that Normandy was flat I was looking forward to a gentle start to the trip. So I was slightly surprised to roll off the ferry and be greeted by a huge hill surrounding Cherbourg! After two wrong turns and a quick jump off and push after hitting a hill I physical couldn't ride up all in the first 5 miles it wasn't the start I was looking for. Still the sun was out and there were 10 weeks and 3,000 miles in front of me!

    The ride did improve very quickly and the initial steep climb turned into glorious rolling countryside, no traffic and small village after small village. My first stop was at Sainte-Mere-Eglise. Two reasons for the stop - One the first stage of 'LeTour' travels through and to say the roads are smooth on the route is an understatement. Two it is home to the US Airborne Museum and for anyone who has watched Band of Brothers you'll know what I'm talking about. The 82nd Us Airborne division landed here during D-Day including one guy who got caught on the cathedral and spent 2 hours playing dead not to get shot.

    After the quick museum visit it was into my accommodation in Carentan. A little B&B run by lovely couple who could have not been more helpful and welcoming. They even did my room out fit for a Princess like I asked!!

    All in all great first day.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 2 - Carentan to Bayeux, 40 miles

    17 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After a great French breakfast in the B&B (I'm going to eat a lot of croissants, ham and cheese on this trip!) it was an early start in glorious sunshine to head round the Normandy coast visiting the historic sites from World War 2 and the D-Day landings. The highlight (not really the right word but I'm sure you know what I mean) was the American War Cemetry where over 9,000 soldiers are buried. Incredibly moving place and somewhere that really makes you realise how lucky we are.

    For anyone who has not been the Normandy coast is stunning. Omaha beach has to be one of the most incredible beaches I've ever seen. Goes on for miles with prefect flat sand. Crazy to think what happened there a little over 70 years ago.

    Today wasn't really about the riding or weather or anything else so after a very moving day I headed to Bayeux which turns out to be a beautiful small place with a large cathedral in the centre. Accommodation was in a lovely old house right in the centre of town. After heading out for a burger and a pint and turning down the advances of Nancy a 50 year old American tour guide it was time for bed.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 3-Bayeux to Mont St Michel, 20 miles

    18 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    (plus 75 miles by train!)

    Slight cheat day today. After relaxed morning in Bayeux the train was boarded after lunch (banana and Nutella crepes are my new favorite thing) for the 2 hour journey to Pontorson and then short ride to Mont St Michel. For anyone who has not been this is a must. Turns out it's the third most visited tourist attraction on France and you can see why. An Abbey built on a rock that gets cut off by the sea twice a day. After popping up the during the day and wandering around I went back after dinner for the sunset and for anyone that knows me im a sucker for a sun set.

    The big bonus for me today is Mont St Michel will be the 'Grand Depart' for Le Tour this year. Might not mean much to many people but to any cyclist this was a big box ticked.

    Inbetween I checked into my guesthouse a couple of miles in land in Beauvoir. Lovely place and Claude the host was very welcoming even if I wasn't sure what eye to look at!

    Great day and will be getting a few more trains to see more things as so easy and cheap. England could learn a thing or two.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 4-Mont St Michel to St-Malo, 35miles

    19 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Part 1

    Awoke to another glorious cloudless sky and left early to get to St Malo by lunch. The best ride so far. Completely flat, along the coast and with a slight tail wind which any cyclist will tell you is heaven when on a bike. From one small town to another within a couple of hours I rolled into St-Malo which is a large town with an Old town by the harbour that is surrounded by a huge medival wall. Amazing place and somewhere you could easily spend a long weekend or even a week with the kids if you have any. Great restaurants, bars, history plus amazing beaches.

    After a few hours around St Malo it was time for another quick cheat and a 3 hour training journey to Le Mans via Rennes. Got a little confused at the change over in Rennes and very nearly ended up going to Paris. Really need to learn some basic French!

    Onto part 2...
    Baca lagi

  • Day 4 - St-Malo to Le Mans, 20 miles

    19 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    (plus 150 miles by train)

    Part 2

    After getting off the train at Le Mans first thing I noticed was jump in temperature. Feeling a lot more summer! Accommodation for the night was a small guesthouse 15 miles south of Le Mans but first was a quick visit to the Le Mans race track. Thinking it will be a quick photo outside I soon realised that apart from the main grandstand straight the rest is on public roads. 7 miles later (did not realise one lap was this far) I came back to the start finish straight and although it's not been verified yet I'm pretty sure it was the fastest lap by a balding twat from Luton on a push bike! Great experience and another tick boxing day.

    Onto accommodation and another lovely guesthouse and after arriving starving and my a restaurant in sight they could not have been more helpful and whipped me up a ham and cheese baguette. I swear the French eat nothing else. My jambon and fromage baguette count in 4 days is already 6.

    Fully carbed up it was time for bed.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 5 - Le Mans to Tours, 55 miles

    20 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Part 1

    Awoke to glorious sunshine and a lovely breakfast made by Sara the host at the small guesthouse I stayed in last night. Little did I know what the next 5 hours had in store. The perfect start of the trip came to an abrupt end with one of my hardest cycles. 55 miles, 2,000 ft of climbing, most of it on a busy B road, nothing interesting to see and all of it into an 18mph (with gusts) head/side wind. It was like cycling from Slough to Swindon with someone slapping you in the face the whole way. A ham and cheese baguette (HCB) break was the highlight of the ride!

    This journey did have a purpose and I eventually rolled into Tours on the Loire River where things improved drastically. A beautiful city set by the river with a huge cathedral, small lanes, markets and a busy center.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 5 - Tours to Langeais, 18 miles

    20 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Part 2

    After another HCB stop sat by the cathedral it was time to change direction and head West taking the Loire Velo route to my bed for the night in Langeais.

    Wow what a change to this mornings ride. The change in direction West now meant the wind was behind me and the Loire a Velo route hugged the river so all flat and the love for the trip was back after all the swearing and head down riding earlier.

    Passing the chateauxs of the Loire Valley I arrived into Langeais to check into yet again a lovely guesthouse and wandered round the small town and finished the day with a pizza and beer by the old church.

    In summary, crap morning, amazing afternoon and a head wind is the devil in disguise!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 6 - Langeais to Angers, 71 miles

    21 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Wow what a day. 71 miles along the Loire Valley using the 'La Loire a Velo' cycle route which tracks quiet roads and river paths whilst taking in all the main sights, chateau's and towns. It really doesn't get much better. Also picked up a companion along the way in the form of Carsten a German cyclist doing 6 months round Europe with the kind of beard I couldn't grow even if I didn't shave for 20 years.

    The blue sky's have gone though and experienced the first cloudy day of the trip with couple of light showers which wasn't too bad as kept the temperatures down but we did have a nice tail wind for the whole day (apologies to the non cyclists as I will probably mention the wind quite a bit on this trip).

    Not going to lie the last 10/15 miles were tough today. After yesterdays 70+ miles the knee, bum and thighs were starting to ache towards the end and Angers and my b&b (which turns out to be run by a lovely Indian couple) couldn't come quick enough.

    Wasn't too happy with 4 flights of steep stairs to my room but after a shower it was a quick turnaround to find a restaurant. We were recommended an Italian (run by a lovely German couple) and after a beer and bowl of pasta each each we also went for a pizza. My Garmin stated I burnt 3,400 calories today so didn't feel that guilty!

    After a quick couple of beers in an Irish bar (they really do get everywhere) I'm writing this from the comfort of my bed where I will rest before tomorrow's 70 mile ride to Nantes!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 7 - Angers to Nantes, 65 miles

    22 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    From a riding point of view it was a great second day of following the Loire a Velo cycle path. Flat terrain on a mix of tarmac and gravel paths and a few bridge crossings it was nice and relaxed but despite the odd flooded path it was a pretty non eventual ride from a sights point of view.

    Arrived into Nantes by mid afternoon and by looks of things a very nice city which I will explore more tomorrow. Day off the bike tomorrow due to the knee and bum needing a rest so will have a wander round Nantes and have a few more beers tomorrow night before a Sundays leisurely ride to the Atlantic coast.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 8 - Nantes

    23 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    First day off the bike so after nice little lie in it was time for a wander round Nantes. Nice city with an impressive Chateau and large cathedral (which is stunning inside and well worth a visit). The centre was very busy and me and the German started on the beers fairly early including the nest bar at the top of Nantes tallest building. The real bonus came when we discovered the annual night carnival was to be in Nantes tonight. After giving the German a lesson in darts (couldn't help but point out the 4-2 scoreline which he didn't find amusing!) we headed to the carnival to find the whole city had turned out and my plans for an early night before tomorrow's ride were quickly dashed.Baca lagi

  • Day 9 - Nantes to Pornic, 52 miles

    24 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After last night's festivities it was a bit of a slow start with plenty of coffee with breakfast. It was also time to say goodbye to the German as he carried on his 6 month adventure by heading North. Today's ride took me along the last stretch of the Loire a Velo before it joined the Atlantic Highway EuroVelo 1 route that actually runs from Norway to Portugal (maybe next year's trip!). After leaving Nantes and crossing the Loire via the ferry at Coueron it was a flat ride to the Atlantic at Saint-Brevin-Les-Pins. It might have been flat but my nemesis 'the head wind' was back and an open 12 mile dead straight stretch along a canal became pretty boring pretty quick.

    After eventually reaching the coast after what seemed like a whole day riding but in reality was only a couple of hours it was time to head south to Pornic following the Atlantic Highway cycle route that would meanander from beach town to beach town through pine forests and camp sites. Have to admit was good to get to the coast and mix the riding up.

    After a good days ride even with the hangover and headwind I arrived into Pornic for the evening which is a stunning little harbour town with a real French riveria feel to it with expensive houses and a small marina.

    The day however wasn't without its problems and a nasty little niggle in my knee got worse as the day went on and despite feeling good and wanting to ride all day every day I may need to listen to my body on this one and take a day or two off the bike especially with 9 weeks still to go. Very frustrating.

    With ice on the knee and a belly full of pizza and a very nice rose wine (I know!) it was time for bed.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 10 - Pornic to La Rochelle (train)

    25 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Made the tough decision this morning to not ride for a few days because of the issues I've had with my knee. Very frustrating as can still ride but know I'm making it worse and with over 8 weeks still left I know it's the sensible thing to do even if it is very frustrating.

    As a result and with it being a grey day I had a few chilled hours around the harbour of Pornic before jumping on the very quiet evening train to La Rochelle, a place I remember very vaguely from a family holiday years ago as a kid, to arrive after sunset and have a quick stroll round the harbour at night.

    Only real eventful thing to happen today was despite only riding 500 meters to the station from the harbour I did get my first wolf whistle. It was sadly off the French equivalant of a white van man but hey at 36 I'll take it!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 11 - La Rochelle

    26 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    With no riding today it was time to see what La Rochelle had to offer. With the weather still being grey and cold with the locals still wearing big coats and scarfs it was time to find some indoor activities and the aquarium and the three harbour towers would do just that. All well worth a visit if you're ever in La Rochelle. It was then time to head to head to one of the harbour side bars for a couple of chilled beers and people watching. After being befriended by a couple of the locals and a few hours chatting about the upcoming Euros, the Premier League (they love Leicester and Vardy over here) and surprisingly the mighty Wolves it was time to settle down and watch the champs league semi final between City and Real. Wow what I shite game!

    Feeling pretty merry it was time to bed after a quick HCB stop on the way back!

    (woke today to much better weather so photos of La Rochelle are from this morning before getting the train to Bordeaux. Gutting as perfect biking weather but I know I need to rest the knee for a couple more days.)
    Baca lagi

  • Day 12 - La Rochelle-Bordeaux-Biarritz

    27 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Following the decision to have a few days off the bike I thought I'd get south quick then spend a few days riding back up the coast before heading into the Pyrenees next week.

    After leaving La Rochelle in perfect riding weather (gutting) I jumped on the train for a few hours in Bordeaux before heading to Biarritz.

    Pleased I stopped in Bordeaux and may well come back to spend a vew days riding round the vineyards but didn't need much more than a couple of hours riding round the city. Nice place but would recommend only a day there.

    Onto Biarritz and arrived late afternoon and first impressions are I'm going to like this place. Great coastal town with stunning beaches and rocky coastline. The town itself is a real mix French style (the money kind) and cool surfers so I'm fitting right in!

    Will explore more tomorrow.

    (photos are of Bordeaux)
    Baca lagi

  • Day 13 - Biarritz

    28 April 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The sun was out so it was up early to have breakfast on the beach and a wander around. Still pretty chilly with the winds from the north but in true English style it was time for a t-shirt and flip flops even if the locals were still wearing their coats!

    After a wander around town and the beaches I found a great little bar called Eden Rock Bar (which is a must if you ever go to Biarritz) as you can imagine it's perched on a rock face over looking the beach and sea. With it being unseasonably cold and still low/mid season the bar was quiet so spent a couple of hours chatting to the barman getting the lowdown on Biarritz. Rest of the day was pretty chilled but may well return on Sunday to have a surf.

    With great beaches, cool surf bars, posh restaurants and all your high end shops Biarritz is great for a long weekend. Place would be buzzing in high season.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 14 - Biarritz to San Sebastian

    29 April 2016, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    There is only just over 30 miles between Biarritz and San Sebastian but the first thing that strikes you is the difference in culture especially the bars, restaurant's and biggest of all the food.

    It couldn't be easier getting between the two on train. Simply get the train to Hendaye at the end of the line in France then walk 200 yards to the next platform which is Irun in Spain (these will hopefully be the last trains for a while).

    After arriving in San Sebastian to great weather it was time to have a bike around. There are two main beaches and a great old town which is car free and where all your pintxos (think tapas but don't say that here) bars are. More than 200 of them. More on the pintxos bars and trying to work out how they work tomorrow.

    A must is a walk upto the Castillo de La Mota which you can see where ever you are in San Sebastian. It offers amazing views of the city and on the way back dowm on the West side is a hidden bar which will offer you some of the best views and music you will find anywhere to have a beer.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 15 - San Sebastian

    30 April 2016, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    What a difference a day makes. Cold, wet and very windy. Only good thing was the strong winds meant the heavy showers came and left pretty quick.

    I'd managed to pick up a ticket to watch Real Sociedad vs Real Madrid a couple of days ago so luckily the weather didn't have too much of an impact on the day. After a chilled morning I headed over to the ground for a few pre game beers and see what was going on.

    Not your biggest of clubs Real Sociedad. Atmosphere around the ground reminded me of a Fulham game, a family club with everyone just having a good day out. The real stars were Real Madrid (no Ronaldo sadly) who are pushing fir the title and an average game was saved for Madrid by a Bale winner in the 80th minute. Fair play to the 100 or so Sociedad 'ultras' who didn't stop singing for the entire mate and the old fella next to me who spoke to me in Spanish the whole match. No idea what he said but a lot knodding and shouting at the ref when he did seemed to do the trick.

    After the match it was time to head back to the old town to spend an website in the pintxos bars and try and work out how to order the food. Each bar varies slightly which doesn't help but basically you grab a plate help yourself to what's on the bar, order a few hot things (black squid ink risotto in one of the bars was amazing) and the barmen some how at the end seem to know exactly what you've had and everyone else. No idea how they do it but very impressive. Great atmosphere in all the bars with the locals not coming out for food until about 9/10pm the places are still buzzing with people eating and drinking well gone midnight.

    Great weekend in San Sebastian will definitely be back. Back on the bike tomorrow and can't wait.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 16-San Sebastian-Biarritz, 35 miles

    1 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Feels great to be back on the bike and what a ride! 35 miles along a rocky coastline, two countries, countless beaches and seaside towns, a fair few climbs and some great descents.

    The reverse of the train journey I did a couple of days ago and glad I did it. Best ride so far. Took it easy to watch the knee and could have some without a couple of the climbs but touch wood if I manage it is hopefully going to be ok.

    Some really great towns between San Sebastian and Biarritz including Hendaye on the French/Spanish border, Cibour where a French equivalant of Tough Murder was taking place and already thinking about entering next year as looked a damn site better than a muddy field in Buckinghamshire and Saint-Jean-de-Luz where you could easily pass an afternoon sitting outside one of the harbour restaurants.

    After a great ride it was time to relax in Biarritz for one last time before heading inland to the Pyrenees and across to the Med.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 17 - Biarritz to Lourdes, 36 miles

    2 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Time to leave the coast behind and head in land and to the Pyrenees. Following the advice of a fellow cyclist the day started with a nice 10 mile ride along the coast to Bayonne where I caught the train to Pau. Nice place Pau and ex host of the French GP on its Street circuit and still host to Formula 3 which they were setting up for in a couple of weeks so second race track I've now riden round.

    After leaving Pau it was 26 miles of a steady incline to Lourdes at the foothills of the Pyrenees. As the Pyrenees started to come into view it reminded me a lot, for people who have done it, of when after about 40 miles cycling from London to Brighton Ditchling Beacon appears on the horizon and you think sh@t I've got to climb that.

    Arriving into Lourdes a place if I am honest I knew little about apart from it was an important place for Catholic pilgrimage but with 6 million visitors a year this place is popular! A bizarre place which apart from the church and old fort is very tacky with every shop being nic nac stores selling Virgin Marys. However the evening service which is attended by several hundred people all carrying candels is something to be witnessed and very moving.

    After saying a few words for a friend of the family my own thoughts couldn't help but turn to my very good friend Brian who was Catholic and my dad who are both sadly not with us. Brian and my dad were both huge Leicester fans so being where I was and the thoughts that were going through my head it couldn't have been more apt that due to Spurs drawing Leicester completed the miracle and won the Premier League. I know two people who will be having a party tonight!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 18 - Lourdes to Argeles Gazost, 11m

    3 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After yesterdays emotional day today was a bit of a rest and relax day. A short easy 11 mile ride along the valley to Argeles-Gazost where I will be basing myself for a couple of days to tackle a few of the climbs in the Pyrenees made famous by Le Tour.

    A quick stop off at Pic du Jer a cable car that takes you 1000 meters up and gives a great view into the Pyrenees and some of the climbs to come.

    Staying at Au Primerose Guesthouse tonight a place very much set up for the cyclist with its own cyclist package and everything you'd ever need in their bike garage.

    After a fascinating dinner chatting to a veteran French cyclist in broken English and the owner bringing me an extra bowl of pasta after I told him where I was planning on riding tomorrow it was time for an early night fully carbed up.
    Baca lagi

  • Day 19 - Argeles-Gazost, 43 miles

    4 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Wow what a day and the kind of day I could only dream of when planning this trip. Some of the most incredible scenery I've ever seen let alone riden alongside and all under perfectly blue sky.

    The day started with a steep ascent out of Argeles-Gazost on the way to the first and biggest climb of the day at 1,474 metres to Cor du Soulor and used regularly in the Tour de France. After the initial steep climb it was a steady ascent until the last 6 miles where it hit an average of 8.5% with parts upto 12%. You know it's steep when you go to change gear but you're already in the granny gear. My big worry for the day was my knee but the rest, stretching and icing for the last week has seemed to pay off and despite feeling it very slightly is didn't cause any major problems.

    After arriving at the top of Col du Soulor it was time to head over the top and onto the Cirque du Lit a pass along a steep rockface. As you will see not your average ride with a sheer drop off one side and steep rockface above. The plan was to ride onto Col d'Aubisque but the road was impassable half way due to rocks brought down by the melting snow and snow that had not yet melted so it was time to turn back but an incredible couple of miles.

    After arriving back at the top of Col du Soulor it was time to ride back down the last steep 6 miles and despite taking nearly an hour ride up I was down in just a few minutes. It was then time to head up Col des Borderes and onto Lake d'Estaing for some more postcard scenery. After a days climbing the 12 miles back to town were all down hill and wow what a ride.

    In summary - 43 miles riden, over 5,000 feet of climbing and the same descending, over 3,000 calories burnt, a top speed of 48.5mph (to the 4 women in my life it was really only 18mph!) and 1 banana and Nutella and 2 x ham and cheese baguettes oh and one cracking photo at the top of Col du Soulor of me taken by the only other cyclist at the top!

    I'm afraid after today I will definitely one of those lycra clad 40, 50 and hopefully 60 years old. Who's up for joining me? I'm looking at you Purv, Moz, Mikey, Francis!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 20 - Argeles-Gazost, 29 miles

    5 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I wasn't sure what to do today but after waking up and opening the shutters to another perfectly blue sky it had to be another day riding in the Pyrenees.

    Fully fuelled after breakfast I decided to head up the Route de Luz that cuts through a deep gorge steadily climbing as you follow the river full of rapids. More stunning scenery on both sides opens up once you reach the small town of Luz-Saint-Sauveur where two valleys meet. From here you can continue to the famous Col du Tourmalet but with the climb still closed due to the snow I will have to come back for this one!

    After a cycle round and a long lunch I descended back down the gorge to base and despite a more relaxed day than yesterday it would be rude not to spend an hour in Argeles-Gazost thermal spa! No board shorts allowed though so a pair of speedos purchased from the front desk it was. Not much left to the imagination in them things!

    Can't wait to come back on the carbon and really take on these mountains. Pyrenees I will see you soon. Bring on the Alps!
    Baca lagi

  • Day 21 - AG to Toulouse, 41 miles

    6 Mei 2016, Perancis ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    After 3 amazing days in the mountains it was time to say goodbye and start moving towards the Med. The day started well with the short ride to Lourdes then a 2 hour train to Toulouse and a few hours spent in the city before heading down the idyllic and flat Canal Du Midi that will lead me 150 miles all the way to the Med. With a nice evening 30 mile ride along the canal to my accommodation for the night I hadn't planned on the devil returning!

    The 150 miles I have to the coast are in a South-East direction and as you will see from the weather picture below the wind is not exactly helping. Nearly 50 mph into my face! As some of you know I have a little competitive edge so rather than shy away and get the train I've gone for it. Well without doubt the strongest and hardest wind I've ever riden in and I've got 3 days of this! It was like putting your head out of a car window on the motorway for a couple of hours and trying to ride with a parachute on your back. It was brutal and relentless and it definitely wasnt good for what hair I have left! I did however strangely enjoy the challenge. Whether I will still be saying the same after 2 more days who knows.

    Oh I did have the bonus of bumping into the Euros Trophy in Toulouse which after talking to Phil the nice guy from UEFA it is doing a 30 city tour. Probably the closet any Englishman is going to get to it this summer!
    Baca lagi