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  • Day 106

    Rotoura & Hobbiton

    February 26, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    An hour or so north from Taupo is the area of Rotoura, one of the most geothermal areas in the southern hemisphere.
    On our way there we stopped at the famous Wai-o-tapu, a large incredibly active geothermal reserve. You can see all the steam from several miles away. Upon entry you crossed what looked like a normal stream, until you looked closely and saw steam rising from the water. As we ventured in you were greeted with a warning sign explaining how you must stick strictly to the pathways due to all the activity in the ground. We started a walking loop and was met with huge craters, bubbling mud pools, and brightly covered mounds. All of which were very very hot (100 degree plus) and brightly coloured due to the range of minerals produced. Initially busy with tour groups coming to see a geyser go off, thankfully it quietened down so we could explore more leisurely, so we decided to do the extended track and see the whole area. This was definitely worth doing as we saw a variety of other interesting things such as a huge white terrace of silica and the Devils bath - a pool the colour of a green/yellow highlighter pen! This was aptly named as there were lots of dead birds around the edges and in the water. It turns out that they dive down to catch bugs off the water but the fumes of all the natural chemicals kills them! Pretty grim but nature is nature....
    The most impressive were the Champagne pools, named because of the bubble formation from the boiling water, it really does look like champagne bubbles popping up to the surface. It also has a very powerful red rim and is incredible steamy. Overall it is a very atmospheric place.

    Once we left here we drove on around 10 minutes and explored down an unpaved road to a known local spot called Kerosene creek. Down amongst some trees and undergrowth is a large stream with several waterfalls. It looks like any other until you dip your toes in and realise it is like a hot bath (water temp approx 40 degrees). We jumped in and it was a surreal experience, we enjoyed, but as it was a warm day it was a little too much and we didn't stay in long. Having sweat on your brow when in water is too weird! How awesome would this place be to escape to in winter though we thought!?

    On to Rotoura itself we had a cute hostel a short walk from the town centre which suited us perfectly. That evening we ended up in a curry house under a special meal deal, and surprisingly it was just as good if not better than some curries we have had at home. Quite a treat.

    The next day we went to Wahakakarewaka (The living Maori village). That is an active Maori village based on an active geothermal site. It has become quite a tourist attraction now that the entire village runs and seems to enjoy. We had a very funny and informative guide who took us round showing how they use the natural resources, such as cooking in wooden boxes over steaming craters in the ground. They cook everything from meat to fish this way and works like a slow cooker making everything tender, but is much quicker, and all natural from the earth. They also use giant deep boiling pools to which they throw in muslin bags of food on string into the water and can cook things in seconds. Their main pool they don't even know how deep it goes as you can't see the bottom, and scientists couldn't go any deeper then roughly 10 metres or so as the temperature reached 280 degree... remarkable. I was glad there was a barrier!
    After the tour we got to sample sweetcorn cooked in the pool and it was delicious! We also got to see a show, where they were in some traditional dress and performed old tribal songs and of course the Haka dance (the one with the chanting, bulging eyes and sticky out tongue). That dance is as intimating in person as you'd expect, very cool to see live. Back when it was used to scare the enemy at the beginning of battle I really think it would have worked well.
    We then proceeded to try a Hangi pie which is a pie case filled with meat and veg cooked in the steam boxes. Everything was tender and delicious, and I can confirm that although the air stinks of a sulphuric eggy smell the food doesn't have that!

    After an explore around the village on our own we ended reading up on the history of the area and found all the history really interesting, if not sometimes gory. For example did you know that Maori used to cook and eat people in hot pools back in the day? I am happy to say now the village people are very friendly and everyone is safe and welcome!

    From here we drove a short distance to the blue and green lakes. These two lakes are next to each other and are very beautiful. The green lake is very sacred to the Maori people so no one can go in or on it. This is nice so you can really see it's natural state. We did however decide to take a dip in the Blue lake as that is allowed. It was so beautiful, still and crystal clear. Even though not the warmest of waters it was so refreshing being somewhere so pure.

    Around mid afternoon we took some time to rest up back at the hostel. We were both very tired and travelling full time can run you down if you don't stop for a breather now and again we've learnt. Randomly at one point I realised we'd left our water bottles in reception so I dashed in, grabbed them and walked out, only stopping to hear a voice say 'I know you'. I turned round and there was a girl called Nina we'd previously met four weeks back in Cairns on our snorkel trip. What a small world! It does blow my mind these chance encounters and how small the world actually is.

    That evening we'd planned to go to a place called The Polynesian Spa and invited Nina along. After an ice cream stop we arrived. The spa had a variety of hot pools with different temperatures, sizes and chemical properties, all bordering a lake, making it a very attractive place. We arrived a little too late so only saw it in daylight for a short while, however it was very relaxing when dark and with low lighting. Because we were chatting with Nina and trying all the different pools we were there til 11pm and the last people there. Our skin felt amazing! Especially after the nicknamed 'ageless beauty' pool that left a silky smooth texture all over. I'll take more of that daily please!

    The next day we'd planned to go to the Waitomo glow worm caves via a nice walk with a famous blue spring and move on from Rotoura. We managed to make it to the blue spring before the car gave in. The car had been bad for a while making a whurring noise, and having lost all it's power. Finally I called a mechanic and he confirmed that it was only running on three cylinders when it should be six... for someone who knows nothing about cars even I can understand that's not good. We agreed to meet him at his garage after we'd walked to the spring. It was definitely worth going to. It is probably the most beautiful piece of water I've ever seen. Crystal clear yet very blue, full of green water plants flowing in the direction of the current. It's hard to do justice but I'm sure you'll get some indication from the picture. We would have liked longer there but knew we had to sort the car.
    After a lot of messing around, phone calls etc. . We went on to a our airbnb for the night and the rental company brought down a new car that evening and took away our previous one. Immediately although exactly the same car model, it was evident how broken the precious one was when you got behind the wheel of the new car!
    With all of this you may have realised we missed out on the caves. It wasn't a massive disappointment as we'd seen lots of glow worms back in Franz Josef so thankfully don't think we missed out on much.

    We went to bed relieved to have everything sorted and be very to get back on our schedule for the following morning.

    One hour away was our next destination and we arrived at 9am ready for our tour round Hobbiton! As big fans of the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit films we were excited to be on the real life permanent film set for the Shire. Set in a lage acre farm is where they adapted it into the Hobbits Shire village. The sun came out and the place is adorable, with 42 hobbit holes and amazing attention to detail such as mini clothes on washing lines and real vegetables in the patch, it felt magically real. A very picturesque place and instantly recognisable it felt like you'd stepped into their world. We enjoyed all of it and practically expected Bilbo to appear when we passed his front door. We ended the tour in The Green Dragon Inn with a beer and marvelled at the detail of the place. Whether you like the films or not, it was an attractive place to be, but all the more special for it's fantasy feel.

    Beth
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