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- Dag 1
- zondag 13 november 2016 om 20:39
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Hoogte: 453 ft
EngelandLye52°26’44” N 2°6’43” W
Planning and Prepping

So it's our 7 year anniversary together and instead of romantic meals or gestures, the day is filled with packing and planning!
Our departure is only 16 days away and suddenly it feels like we need to pick up the pace and be ready to go. The house is in a state of boxes, paperwork and half completed jobs...but we're getting there. We're finalising our travel plan (which is surprisingly time consuming) and nearly finished packing up valuables and sentimental items around the house. Our good friends are renting out the house and although they don't mind us leaving things out, we don't want them to have to look at all our photos constantly staring at them or them worrying about breaking anything. Thankfully not a massive task, but does bring us back to our moving days!
It's all becoming incredibly real now, but immensely exciting. Well and truly on the countdown to seeing the world...
BethMeer informatie
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- Dag 17
- dinsdag 29 november 2016 om 16:30
- 🌙 1 °C
- Hoogte: 449 ft
EngelandLye52°26’44” N 2°6’44” W
Off we go

Goodbyes have been said, our house is packed, work is finished and we have our bags on our backs.
The last few weeks have been a whirlwind of finishing tasks and very rapidly moving onto the next. In preparation for what seems almost inevitable while we're away, I got food poisoning which wiped out two of the last three days and set us back on the final to-do list but thanks to our brilliant family we're ready to go.
We are currently on our way to Heathrow for our flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka for our first of ten countries. You might be wondering which of us has the heavier bag - Phil with the massive shoes, larger bag, bigger clothes; or Beth who has packed considerably more clothes, shoes and all-things-ladylike? Across her backpack and daypack Beth comes in at 14kg, while Phil is 13kg. Pretty sure we still both have entirely unnecessary stuff with us!
It feels surreal to be on the road but we are both so excited to be...except for the delayed train to London that is!
PhilMeer informatie

Heather CookeYahoo....en route for Sri Lanka. According to flight tracker you will already be over Bucharest! Hope you both sleep well after all the hard work to get ready and wake up to sunshine and heat! Loves x
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- Dag 20
- vrijdag 2 december 2016 om 21:48
- 🌙 26 °C
- Hoogte: 49 ft
Sri LankaMaligakanda6°55’29” N 79°51’52” E
Colombo

Arrival in the capital!
After a mammoth journey we were finally dropped off via taxi at our prebooked hotel, hidden down a side street and nicely secluded.
We promptly freshened up and explored what was around the local vicinity (why is a McDonald's always the first thing to see!?). Shortly after we hopped into a tuk tuk to take us to an area called Galle Face Green, which is essentially a huge area of grassland with a stone edging that raises from a small beach and the sea. It's an area I'd read that locals like to hang out at and with a strong breeze there are lots of people flying kites and eating from the street carts that line it. Here we had our dinner of roti (flatbread) and a potato or prawn patty deep fried and covered in fresh chilli and a very hot tamarind sauce. We sat down and ate these while watching the sunset set on a foggy evening. Definitely a great way to kick start our first evening.
It ended with a foot massage and a much needed long night of sleep.
The next day exploring the city involved darting around the city seeing sight after sight including two very grand temples (one buddist, one hindu) a lovely lake, the National Museum, the Independence Memorial Hall, a large park, the old Dutch hospital and more!
We enjoyed each place differently whether it was seeing the grandure of the temples, with stunning detail and design (not many photos of these as disrespectful to take photos inside) to the hidden treasures such as the lake and park which gave sudden respite to the hectic roar of the city. The National Museum was great with incredibly old and ancient artifacts that show some of the history of the country including when the Dutch and Portuguese were here. We're really enjoying starting to learn more about this country!
This may sound like we rushed the day but it was actually very leisurely and with many drink stops trying to adapt to the sudden humidity.
The city is clearly going through a lot of refurbishment as there is building work popping up everywhere and I think it is quite an up and coming place. All the same it is very much a busy polluted and loud city, with some of the scariest driving I've ever seen (worse than Hanoi, Vietnam which may mean something to some of you!). Truthfully it's not somewhere we really wanted to stay long but still very good to see and experience, quite a sharp awakening into another world!
BethMeer informatie

Heather CookeNice view for tea,and a lot warmer too.Sounds like you've had a lovely start to your trek around Sri Lanka.lovely photos.😌
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- Dag 22
- zondag 4 december 2016 om 21:00
- ☀️ -6 °C
- Hoogte: Zeeniveau
Sri LankaPoint de Galle6°1’30” N 80°13’4” E
Hikkaduwa to Galle

We left Colombo by a morning train and whilst we were waiting for our train to arrive we had our first taste of Sri Lankan public transport. It was 8am so lots of people were arriving on commuter trains for their work day - picture a full train car then add another 50 people, then ask a few to hang onto the sides. Thankfully our train was quieter and in 2nd class (of 3) there are comfy-ish leather seats and fans. By the time the journey was under way it was cool enough with the breeze sweeping through the open windows.
Hikkaduwa was our next stop and, much like a lot of beach/sea front towns, it's set around the main road that runs one building back from the beach. Our guesthouse was over the road from there, a mere 50 paces from the beach. We also decided to try a non-AC room which was sticky but ok!
During the 2004 Tsunami Hikkaduwa was very badly hit, including a train carrying 1300 people who all died as the train line is less than 100m from the sea. Given this we visited a memorial and photo museum which was harrowing and sad, including talking to our Tuk Tuk driver who lost his mother and sister. It's important to remember the devastation and Hikkaduwa does this appropriately. We also visited a turtle sanctuary, a local delicacy is turtle eggs so to avoid this they collect them from the beach, incubate them and then when they're healthy they're released to the sea. Even with this intervention only 1 of 100 survive to adulthood. The sanctuary was small but incredible as they let you hold the turtles, so that was the absolute highlight of the day! We had hoped to swim with wild ones off the beach as coral was only 50m from the beach but we weren't lucky enough to do that, but the swim in the sea was still so good to cool off and the sun setting into the sea was beautiful!
The following morning we took another train the short ride to Galle where we planned two days to explore the area and see what warranted UNESCO to consider this a protected area. On Saturday afternoon we took a tour by tuk tuk to Koggala beach where, along with another 10 miles or so, there are the famous stilt fishermen plying their trade. For a small charge (by UK standards) of 1500 rupees they allow you to photograph them and have a go yourself, which Beth did! After gracefully climbing to the perch she seemed very comfortable and was promptly given her fishing line, including a fish! It was a really fun experience for her and something very well photographed!
Our next stop was to a Japanesee built Buddhist temple perched on top of a hill overlooking Unawatuna beach (a backpacker hang-out cresecent shaped bay) and we would have also had a great view of Galle Fort and the surrouding ocean however by this time it had gone completely dark so we couldn't see a thing other than the 100 year old lighthouse - still going strong! It also made for a 'fun' drive to and from the temple as the road was barely wide enough for one tuk tuk, yet one parked and two driving next ot each other was still experienced!
It was while we were enjoying the serenity of the peace pagoda and looking out at the lights of the fort that we chatted more to our driver, to which he revealed that he had lost his father during the tsunami and he personally was the only survivor of a hotel staff team of 10 at the time, only because he climbed a coconut tree. It's becoming more and more emotional as we meet people who've been so affected by the tsunami - it seems everyone has been...
Before arriving in Galle we had ummed and arred about whether to stay there or at Unawatuna, and when we went for dinner that evening we realised we'd made the right choice to stay in the Fort as the block-paved alleyways were all lit up by fairy lights and we found a rooftop restaurant to serve us fresh curries.
Sunday was a day to explore the fort itself. We're struggling more and more with the heat during the middle of the day so were up early and exploring the Dutch and Portuguese built fort before 9am. The whole town is filled with incredibly well restored and preserved colonial era buildings such as the Clock Tower, Lighthouse and Governor's House and Officers Quarters. Whilst almost all the buildings are privately owned (inculding some VERY plush boutique hotels!) just walking around the streets was a brilliant experience. In the evening a thunderstorm arrived which pushed us inside to Indian Hut (Pizza Hut logo rip-off - brilliant!) for a delicious curry and naan. Just as we arrived back at our hotel the thunderstorm knocked out the power to the entire Fort area which was quite an experience and while it didn't really phase us, or the locals for that matter, thankfully the outage didn't last too long.
PhilMeer informatie

Heather CookeTurtle gorgeous, stilt looks uncomfortable, where's the photos of you getting up Beth!! Lol! Town sounds lovely especially meal on rooftop. Keep cool! With love a mum and dad xx
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- Dag 25
- woensdag 7 december 2016 om 15:38
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Hoogte: Zeeniveau
Sri LankaVeragalle Point5°56’42” N 80°27’31” E
Mirissa

Upon arrival we got a tuktuk to the train station ready to get back on that familiar train continuing on to the area Mirissa.
Mirissa is known for it's gorgeous beach and we were now very ready to slow down and have some sun, sea and sand!
As standard with Sri Lanka they follow their own timelines, meaning the 9:35 train actually didnt leave til 10:15am, however it was very quiet meaning we had lots of space and got to look out of the window as well as having that amazing breeze. When we arrived it was a short journey to the main road where as usual it runs parallel with the beach and is where the majority of guesthouses and shops are. Our guesthouse was down a side street thankfully which made it a lot quieter at night. First thing we noticed is there are a lot more mosquitos here but thankfully we have a four poster bed with a a good net over it so that helped (not that we don't have some bad bites! I had forgotten the relentless of the itching...).
That afternoon was a quiet one as I hadn't been feeling that well, seemingly coming down with a bad head cold or something similar, and so we relaxed and settled in with an afternoon siesta. Later on we wandered onto the beach and wow! It was beautiful. White sand, crystal clear water and it sweeps round in a lovely bay shape. We couldn't wait to get in it!
Over the next 2 days we spent days on sun loungers, going in and out of the warm but refreshing sea every hour and relaxing the daytimes away. The first day, although we thought we were very careful we did both get fairly bad sunburn (Phil especially so with a very red back and shoulders!) So the following day we were much more careful and stayed out of the sun more. There's a lovely sea breeze so that might be why it feels so pleasant, it misleads you into thinking it's not so hot! We'd spend sunsets and the evenings also on the beach, having fresh sea food they catch that day and display for you to choose, then eat it with just candlelight with the waves crashing next to you. Such a relaxing place and reminded us of a more built up version of the island Koh Rong off Cambodia which we adored being on 3 years ago.
After a final relaxing evening we had an early start ready to go whale watching. At 6:15am a tuktuk arrived ready to take us to the harbour to go with a well respected company Raja And The Whales. Off the coast of Mirissa it is considered one of the best places in the world to see whales, in particular blue whales. Except for Antarctica here is the largest concentration of blue whales so we were very hopeful we'd get to see the largest animal on the planet that day! This tour company is double the price of others in the area however we knew we wanted to go with them after not only great reviews but their knowledge and respect of the whales, which they definitely showed, for example not chasing then down or 'blocking' them in, explaining to us about what is good for them throughout the tour. They were so passionate about the animals and it showed with their approach. They also really know their stuff, taking us to areas where there were no other tourist boats. Within 10 minutes out in deep water they spotted one however we missed it (when a blue whale dives it can be down there for 45 minutes!) So they moved on and boy were we in for a treat. About an hour later we were told they'd spotted a whale and we're waiting to see it again when suddenly right next to me and Phil a Brydes whale came up about 15 metres from us, what an awesome surprise. Then suddenly seemingly without warning we seemed surrounded, everywhere you looked we saw blow holes spouting all round the boat at different distances, you hardly knew where to look! We saw a pair of blue whales come up fairly close but more amazingly, swimming in our direction, closer and closer, til they looked like they were going to crash into the side of the boat. It was kind of scary as you started to really see the size and the blue shimmer of their bodies under the water. They then went round the back of the boat at this point, we were just drifting to not disturb them. As they went round the back of the boat they were probably only 10 metres away if that and then they both flukked their tails and dived down which we'd all been waiting for. This couple kept appearing as we moved on, swimming in perfect unison and treating is to regular dives down. We were then even lucky enough to have another pair join the party and another Brydes whale.
Completely awe-inspiring is the only way I can describe the feeling. Shortly after this we headed back, also seeing a large manta ray too and we were on a high. We'd just seen not only a solidarity creature in its couples, but one of the rarest to see in the world and so close. Incredibly lucky and a definite highlight of the trip so far. A big thank you goes out to my cousin Kate, Mark and Rufus for gifting us this opportunity for birthdays and Christmas. It was truly special!
We now won't see the sea until Negombo at the end of our trip in Sri Lanka and it will be missed.
BethMeer informatie

Phil and BethProbably one of our favourite spots in Sri Lanka, just beautiful so I can understand completely why you enjoyed it too! Phil
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- Dag 27
- vrijdag 9 december 2016 om 14:22
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Hoogte: 341 ft
Sri LankaSinuggala6°28’60” N 80°53’27” E
Uda Welawe and the Elephants

After our whale watching adventure we wanted to travel straight to our next destination, the Uda Welawe national park, famed for its elephants, amongst other animals!
Where in the UK the day to day transport is mainly cars, in Sri Lanka it's all about the buses. We flagged one down from the side of the road, climb into it and before you're even in fully it's pulled away, fast. They're super cheap (about £1.60 for both of us for an 80 mile journey) so every bus is 99% local, 1% tourist.
To understand what happened next I'll give you an idea of the way they work. Most buses are fairly old and have a door at the front and back, with a bag store overhead (little) and next to the driver (a bit larger but only for a few bags). They have a central walkway and rows of seats 4-5 across. Fixed into the overhead locker throughout the bus are MASSIVE speakers blaring the latest Sri Lankan/bangra tunes at a high volume, muted a little by the open windows providing a very much needed breeze (seriously, it's so hot I've now sweated from places I didn't even know I had). Both buses we took in this journey were packed, but thankfully we had seats.
Ok so back to the bus in Mirissa. As we tried to take our bags off to put in the store by the driver the bus pulled away, throwing both of us off balance. At the same time half a dozen girls and a few middle aged ladies got up to get off at the next stop a few hundred metres away. As we tried to regain our balance and take our bags off I felt a hand go into my pocket and my wallet come out. I'm not stupid enough to leave much in it, but there was still about £25 in it, so to put it plainly I blocked their way off the bus and shouted in their face, making a huge scene - Beth tells me I just lost it at them - but after a very intense minute my wallet 'magically' appeared on the floor, including its contents.
We got ourselves seated and couldn't believe that had just happened within 30 seconds of our first bus experience! It was only then that I realised the Lonely planet guidebook we have is missing information on the etiquette for fighting a girl when she steals your stuff, but thankfully it didn't get that far.
Much more warily we made our change to another bus in a town called Matara and that was the second of two parts of our journey that took us to a town called Embilipitiya. It was a hot and sticky 3 hours from end to end (although we loved interacting with the locals, waving at school kids and best of all the cheesy SL-pop blaring out). I can't explain enough just how rough the journey was, with windy downhill sections taken at 50mph by the bus driver, sometimes overtaking lorries etc on the wrong side of the road with a blind bend... we'd chosen seats at the back which may have made this worse as speed bumps were ignored and as such we were thrown into the air at each one (the locals enjoyed Beth squealing at this)!
After a short walk from the bus station we arrived at our hotel and were greeted by the most friendly and welcoming person we have met in Sri Lanka, a young man called Tilly. With Beth's name up on the wall with a GB flat to welcome us, we then sat under a fan as he brought us iced pineapple smoothies and arranged our safari for the next day, happily chatting the whole time. He then explained he was upgrading us from our basic fan and cold water room to a superior air con and hot water room, free of charge so we were already beginning to forget the stress of the bus journeys. Our mood was uplifted further by a swim in their pool, all to ourselves as the hotel wasn't busy. Overall it was definitely the best accommodation we've had so far, especially so because of Tilly who couldn't do enough for us.
The 4.45 alarm to wake us this morning was not fun, but we had to leave the hotel at 5.15 to go by 4x4 to Uda Welawe and be at the gate for the opening at 6. We shared the vehicle with a lovely French couple (also guests at our hotel) and our driver guide. Of course it was still dark when we left but as we arrived at the gates the sun rose gently into the sky, bringing the park to life. Within the first 10 minutes we'd seen a male peacock perched atop a tree and then suddenly the car grinds to a halt as there were wild Asian elephants right next to the path, happily grazing on the lush vegetation the park is covered in (it's rained every afternoon there for a few weeks). As we found out throughout our morning safari many times, the female elephants and young stay together but males separate and are solitary, except when mating. During the morning we saw well in excess of 40 elephants including two new born babies and half a dozen toddlers, and all were so curious of our vehicle and the others in the park, often walking close to and around the vehicle which gave us unrivalled views of them. They truly are majestic creatures, much smaller than African elephants and only 8% have tusks, meaning the Asian elephants are similar but certainly different.
We also experienced innumerable peacocks with a male displaying its mesmerising feathers, monkeys playing in a tree, a variety of colourful birds flying to and fro and we also witnessed a Sea Eagle having it's breakfast (sorry to the poor stork). Add to that water buffalo, spotted deer (including 'bambi'!), chameleon and more! The park really is a wonderful place to experience animals in the wild and in the 3 hours we safaried there was only 5 minutes where we saw no animals.
Sri Lanka is famous for its wild leopard population, with the largest number available to be seen in another national park called Yala. Since we arrived we spoke with a number of guides, travellers and locals who all said the same about Yala. Everyone goes to see the leopards making it very busy and results in the jeeps racing each other to a location if one driver spots one. It's also much busier than Uda Welaye, so despite the reduced possibility of seeing a leopard at UW we chose there instead. Now we've visited, and ultimately we didn't see a leopard, we are still so glad of our choice as UW had a calmer feel about it and because of the environment being different we also experienced more diverse wildlife.
Before returning to our hotel we stopped at Elephant Transit House, home to about 80 orphaned and disabled elephants and while they receive some government funding they run mainly on entrance fees (£4.80 for both of us) and donations. As the name suggests it's only intended to rehabilitate the animals before returning them to the wild. As of 2015 they'd returned 100 and 13 of these had their own calves, showing the real value in the work they do there. We arrived at 9am just in time for them to be fed, and we saw more elephants in one place than we have ever seen before or could have imagined! Amongst them were playful babies, an elephant with a crippled leg and another who is missing one leg, but he has a prosthetic. As we found out in their information centre most trouble for Sri Lankan elephants is from human-elephant conflict, emphasising the need for the home to keep contact with humans as low as possible. If you're interested in the home more then Animal Planet made a documentary about it so just give it a Google search!
Following another refreshing swim in the hotel pool we packed up again and headed off to our next destination up in the hill country - Ella! You might be surprised to hear we opted for a taxi instead of 3 bus journeys...
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 32
- woensdag 14 december 2016 om 19:00
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Hoogte: 3.307 ft
Sri LankaElla6°52’26” N 81°2’56” E
The Hill Country - Part One

We've spent the last few days (Friday-Tuesday) in Sri Lanka's hill country, land of tea plantations, windy and terrifying roads and some of the country's best views.
Ella was our first stop and immediately felt more touristy that other towns we've stayed in so far. As we travel we're booking hotels and guesthouses a couple of days ahead and even with research (thank you Agoda, TripAdvisor and Hotels.com!) we're always a little unsure what we'll arrive to. In Ella this meant a climb up a very rough path about - no joke - 150m back from the main road to get to our guesthouse. Our room had a small balcony that gave us incredible views though so the climb was worth it - a theme that repeated over the weekend, as I'll get to later on.
For our first day in Ella we hired a car and driver to take us to the local sights. Everywhere you drive up here is on a road hugging the side of a mountain, or weaving its way through a tea plantation. Beth wasn't too happy about the former and made it clear with all of her squeals and even though we were surrounded by breathtaking views she couldn't help but bury her face into me to hide. To be honest I'm not too surprised as even with the vehicle dominating the road (except for buses and lorries) it was hairy at some points, like when the driver decides to overtake a slow bus on a bend, in the wrong lane on the outside of the road with a HUGE drop off the edge! (To our mum's and anyone else who is panicking reading this - we asked and crashes aren't common as this is their normal conditions, so they're used to it. Panic over? No I thought not!)
Anyway back to the tour. We went first to Uva Halpewathe tea factory. Thanks to the British demand for tea during the colonial era Sri Lanka has some very well established plantations and factories, and the one we visited was huge and perched atop a mountain surrounded by its fields. The tour was fascinating and showed the five stages to tea manufacturing - picking (by hand), drying (using cool air, for about 7-12 hours), rolling, fermenting (leave it out for about 2 hours. They judge when this is finished by using a very wise old man who smells the tea leaves to see if it's ready!) and finally heating (at 105C). We were guided through by a very energetic and passionate local who happily grabbed handfuls of the tea at each stage of the manufacture (often from the depths of the still-working machinery) and dumped them into our hands. It was a great experience topped off with a cup of fresh tea, of course! If you're interested then Halpe tea (their brand) is sold internationally and is amongst the best quality Sri Lankan tea - we can recommend it! Although you may already get a taste with Sri Lanka being the biggest exporter of tea internationally including the big brands we know like Tetley and PG tips, who buy from that factory and mix it with other tea they purchase.
Next on our tour we visited a local temple, the Dowa temple, dating back over 500 years and built into a cave by a river. It was a very peaceful area and large parts of the temple used the natural shape and flow of the caves, all painted beautifully and with every surface covered in Buddha statues of many sizes. As with every temple we've visited so far the tourists visiting are outnumbered by people visiting to make use of the temple. It's incredible that so many people make time every day to visit the temple and offer their prayers.
Our third stop on the tour was a feat of British engineering, the Nine Arches Bridge. The name explains it, and it's used for trains even now despite being about 200 years old and made from only stone, brick and mortar. The views surrounding it were incredible as well, as we were about 1100 metres above sea level with mountains and valleys in just about every direction.
That afternoon although we were starting to feel tired we had heard about a fun walk to see nearby waterfalls. Nice, yes, but what made it great was that the way to get there was to walk 2 miles along the railway line until you reached them! As I keep banging on about, the views were outstanding and there were loads of other people (tourists and locals) who were doing the walk too. Train tracks here simply double up as another road when the trains aren't running...except they still were running as we found out when one appeared from around a bend at about 50mph! We jumped out of the way just in time to watch it hurtle past and to wave at people sat in the doorways enjoying the afternoon breeze. It was a bit edgy as I was only about 1m away from the train but where else could we experience this?! The waterfalls made for a picturesque halfway point before the amble back along the tracks, this time without train spotting! That evening when we were back at our guesthouse we sat out and listened to the croaks and squeaks of jungle nightlife with the sound of live acoustic music drifting up the hill from the town.
Sunday was Beth's 26th birthday - YEAH! Happy birthday! We'd planned a day to celebrate, kicked off by a hike up a nearby mountain called Little Adam's Peak. The one hour climb was largely on a road, completed by rugged steps etched into the mountainside in a steep and rather precarious manner. It was pretty tough going but oh-so-worth it when we arrived at the summit as there were clear views in every direction. My words can't really paint a picture so I'll let our camerawork do the talking. You may be surprised to hear that Beth would want to climb a mountain on her birthday, but it really shows how worth it it was for the views!
Now that Beth had worked for it I treated her to a long lunch at 98 Acres Resort. It's a plush spot perched on a nearby mountain with amazing views around. We had a table on their cafe deck, made from old railway sleepers and enjoyed a cold cocktail and a buffet of salads, curries and, amongst other desserts, chocolate mousse. Beth definitely enjoyed that part!
First thing in the morning we'd moved to another guesthouse which had a swimming pool. By the time we were back from lunch we were very ready for a swim and wow it was refreshing! And after all that walking the day was topped off with a massage to ease our weary feet.
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 32
- woensdag 14 december 2016 om 20:12
- 🌙 26 °C
- Hoogte: 4.659 ft
Sri LankaHaputale6°45’57” N 80°57’9” E
The Hill Country - Part Two

Monday morning arrived all to soon and we walked to the train station to head to our next stop, Haputale. It was an hour away and supposedly is one of the best train journeys in the world as it cuts through amazing scenery - our plan was to see and enjoy it, but what we hadn't planned on was that it would be one of the very few public holidays Sri Lanka has, meaning every man and his dog has a holiday. At the time we thought the train was busy, but as it was only an hour we were able to slip out quite easily when the time came. We did have a great view out of the window as well so all in all the journey was relatively painless.
We headed to another mountain once we'd arrived, nearby Lipton's seat named so after Thomas Lipton who established a tea plantation in the area that is still working today. His seat, atop a mountain, is a 7km climb through some of the most raw and beautiful landscapes we've seen. We cheated on the way up and were dropped 1km from the top but then did the descent 7km to the nearest tea factory. From the top there were yet more incredible views as well as a huge number of Sri Lankan tourists, all enjoying what the area had to offer. As we climbed both ways we'd seen that almost all of the locals going to the top were doing so by driving up however the road was barely wide enough for one car, meaning that traffic meeting in both directions led to huge jams. To clear these they all jump out their vehicles and debate how to manoeuvre around each other - it's quite a sight and shows their impressive spacial awareness. Well, except for the poor bloke who reversed his minivan off the edge and got wedged half off the road by a tree (better than a tumble 100m to the next stretch of winding road below).
By the time we'd reached the tea factory our tuk tuk driver wasn't very happy at having to wait for us for 2 hours as he told us normally people do the 8km round trip in 45 minutes. Yeah right....This was a rare instance of any resemblance of a problem that we'd had but ultimately it caused no issue as we were dropped back at our guest house for time to unwind and relax after the early mornings and hikes. That evening the guesthouse also served up freshly made curry that was our best curry experience in Sri Lanka so far. It proves that if you eat as the locals do then you're in for a treat. Our favourite was definitely the aubergine curry!
Tuesday was yet another early morning to catch the first train from Haputale to Kandy, a 5 1/2 hour journey through more spectacular vistas. Remember I said about the public holiday? Well Tuesday is the last day so everyone had to travel home ready for work on Wednesday, meaning the train was packed to capacity and then some! Beth made friends with a family who were on holiday for the weekend and landed herself a seat (plus food they shared with her) but I didn't fare so well, spending the full journey jammed by the toilet with a mass of sweaty men around me. It reached the stage where the train was was so busy that we couldn't move at all and feeling only returned to my feet when someone climbed on them to squeeze through to the toilet - great. Further to that the train's have food sellers who walk through the carriages selling freshly cooked treats from a 2ft wide basket. As the train was so busy you'd expect them to stop walking through, right? WRONG! Instead they climb through the tiniest gaps possible and hold the basket over everyone's heads; that is everyone's heads but mine, instead full-on hitting me in the face and leaving me to enjoy the smell of their wares for the rest of the sweaty journey!
Even Beth in a seat was cramped up for the last hour with a 5 year old on her lap and a lady sat basically on her hip. People were constantly shoving themselves into the carriages into non existent spaces and there really was no such thing as personal space. I'm writing this blog post the day after this journey and now that I'm feeling more rested I can reflect that it wasn't SO bad but at the time I would've happily traded all my clothes for a cold water and a comfy seat.
Thanks to Prabesh and his cousin (sorry I forgot his name!) for entertaining me on the journey with great conversation, if you're reading. And thanks to the very sweet family that adopted Beth and took a million 'flattering' photos of her!
Phil
PS: We thought about taking a photo of the packed train once we'd battled our way off at Kandy but we just couldn't face it after the journey!!Meer informatie
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- Dag 33
- donderdag 15 december 2016
- ☀️ 5 °C
- Hoogte: 1.644 ft
Sri LankaKandy Lake7°17’44” N 80°38’8” E
Kandy

So after the rough ride we basically threw ourselves off the train at Kandy train station. Not exaggerating when I say 'throw', the crowds were terrible and pushing to get on without letting us off first, the trains are also raised very high. So after passing the smaller bags through the open window to Phil, I had to throw myself into the crowd as the only way to exit. Yes I crushed some people but hey if they won't wait what can I do!? Unfortunately the concept of patience and queuing is lost here, especially when it comes to the fight for best seats, not that there were any...
As we left the station we weren't in the best mood for the usual tuktuk drivers games. We knew the price it should be to take us to our guesthouse so we held our ground. Some drivers didn't take too well to this but we moved on and found a young lad who did it for the accurate price (half what the others said).
Upon arriving at our guesthouse it was like an oasis. A kind lady greeted us and took us upstairs where there was a gardened covered balcony right outside our room. It was quiet, even on a main road and was a lovely escape.
We went to a hotel restaurant two houses away which was recommended (described as clean so I'll take that) and we actually had this amazing Chinese feast, which definitely made us feel more human. As we felt dead, the rest of the day was to chill and recover from the full on travelling experience.
The next day we were refreshed and went out to experience the city. Only a 10 minute walk away was Kandy lake, the centrepiece of the area and next to it The Temple of the Tooth, one of the main sacred Buddhist templates in the world.
As we walked towards the entrance there was a large crowd gathering where we wanted to go. As I looked through to see what was happening I was met with an armed guard with a machine gun... so we will be waiting here I thought.
I realised behind him was a red carpet and suddenly an onslaught of photographers and video cameramen came running down following a police escort and a blacked out car. Clearly someone very important was arriving. We watched him and a huge entourage walk down and wave at us all and go through a traditional ceremony and into the temple. Shortly after we were allowed through to buy our tickets (somewhat overpriced ticket considering locals are allowed in for free) and then wait again out in the sun. Even locals were fainting around us so it was a tough 20 minute wait or so! But finally we went in, along with crowds of Sri Lankans with flowers to offer. To be honest it was pretty mad being pushed along somewhat like cattle, and we were glad to be outside the back of the temple to get some air and explore at our own pace. The main draw of this temple is the 'tooth' of the Buddha which is housed here in a gold casket, and is one of the most precious relics to Buddhists. I saw it for a maximum of 3 seconds before being forced to move on. Maybe it was just a bad day to visit.
After we explored the whole site we went for a leisurely lunch at a lovely cafe just outside the temple, where we even indulged on ice cream sundaes. We wanted a treat after feeling somewhat disappointed with our temple experience. Afterwards we went for a wonder around the lake which was pleasant and saw a surprising amount of wildlife including a huge monitor lizard sunning itself on the edge of the water 1m from us.
Off a side street is the Garrison cemetery which was recommended to visit. After strolling around the caretaker who has worked there for 20 years started telling us the stories of some of the people buried there, and wow were they fascinating. To a point where we've looked up these people since. Whether it was the last British colonial man to be killed by a wild elephant, to the millionaire robbed by Sri Lankas 'Robin Hood' who then gave his wealth out to the poor in the mountains, there were quite some interesting tales. Prince Charles went to visit this cemetery in the nounties and he was still gushing about that visit which was sweet.
After we left the cemetery it was a short walk back to the lake and to the red cross hall for a cultural show we had booked tickets for. Kandy is known for these dance shows so we knew we had to see one.
The show itself was very good with impressive costumes and performances. But at the end was even more impressive when they brought out hot coals and men starting walking bare foot across them as well as eating fire. Besides being covered in ash it was quite a thing to see. We still don't know how they did it.
The next day we decided to have a leisurely start and went to the outskirts of the city to Kandy's famed botanical gardens, and the largest in Asia. To be honest we weren't expecting much but boy were we wrong. I've never been to gardens more stunning and varied. They had different sections from the Orchid house to the spice garden and each one was in a class of it's own. The colours and smells everywhere was amazing and so luscious. As well as being immaculately matained. As we walked around there was also plenty of animals, lots of monkies which Phil happily walked through as a huge group passed by, and giant flying fox bats hanging from the fern trees. This only added to the amazing nature around.
Another thing that happened is a group of some sort of summer school approached us. Now we are quite used to be stopped and asked for photos, especially tall blond haired Phil which is of extra excitement to the locals. But this was different as it was a range of schoolchildren of different ages learning English, and they desperately wanted to practise. We had all the questions like what are our favourite hobbies and so on, it was really quite adorable and we were happy to stop and chat. However it started to go a little bit awkward when they insisted we sing a song, which we begrudgingly did (we sang Jingle Bells) but then they kept pushing for us to dance too. I wanted to point over to the actual monkies in the park and tell them to ask them to perform instead. But i restrained these thoughts and grabbed Phils phone, knowing that he would give in wanting to please them and I better get the video going!
Well let's just say it may be one of the most awkward but hilarious moments of my entire life. A school girl sang this slow independence song and Phil was just wiggling about with this 7 year old boy, then burst into the robot moves, because what else could you do!? No one really knew what was happening but I was genuinely shaking with laughter. In fact shortly after when Phil signalled he really wanted to leave now (bless him) I was hunched over crying in hysterics watching the video back. Sorry to say folks Phil has banned anyone from viewing this...currently. It took a while to get over this encounter but then we went back to exploring the gardens and stayed there for hours.
We got the bus back and was dropped right outside the prison on a hill so we could see in. To say it was grim is an understatement. If anyone watched the TV show 'Prison Break' think about SONA.. it is just like that, horrendous.
Now we were very tired and hot and needed an escape, so upon a recommendation from a fellow traveller we ducked into a plush shopping mall just off the lake. It had an impressive food hall with food from all over the world and we tucked in. Sri Lankan food is great but nice to have a change from rice and curry sometimes, and it was delicious. We then indulged in some fancy ice creams and suddenly we felt recuperated. We strolled back to our guesthouse and relaxed ready for another full day of travelling the next day, to go North and do some more ancient temple exploring.
BethMeer informatie

Heather CookeThanks for great update. Quite a mixture of experiences good and not so good, travel sounds difficult

Heather CookeBut your encounters with some locals sound good eg the children! We thought you danced well Phil, considering!
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- Dag 35
- zaterdag 17 december 2016 om 12:00
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Hoogte: 830 ft
Sri LankaSigiri Rock7°57’29” N 80°45’33” E
Sigiriya

After another full day of travelling we arrived in Polonnaruwa where we were basing ourselves to explore some ancient sites.
The first one of these roughly an hour or so down the road is the world famous UNESCO heritage site of Sigiriya rock. You may reconigse this as it is one of the most recognised images from Sri Lanka, and of course an absolute must do to visit and climb.
We went for the cheap but slow option of getting there, by travelling on 2 buses (total price £1.70 for us both) and we arrived around 9am.
We had noticed it was quite a grey day, which we hadn't really seen before but were hoping it would clear up as the views were supposed to be amazing from the top. After a long walk to the entrance we paid the extortionate entry price and wondered down the main boulevard towards the giant rock. Wow is really the first word that comes to mind, it is such a dramatic site and mind blowing to look at it knowing you're going to climb up there. It is believed on top of the Rock and surrounding land was all part of King Kassapa's (AD 477-495) palace and gardens. Some have challenged this and believe it was a monastery and religious site. It seems both are believed and both have some evidence for. Regardless it is quite a wonder! Everywhere you look are original fountains of buildings or gardens, such as the original pools that make up a water garden that runs parallel with the main path. These are over a 1000 years old yet archeologists believe that they are the same as they were. We ambled down slowly, equally trying to avoid some tour groups as we got closer to the base of the forthcoming climb.
It starts with old stone steps that are fairly steep but doable. Unfortunately the whole place is full of annoying 'helpers' who try to give you a hand or arm up, but then will harass you for money for that help. We already knew about this from fellow travellers but they weren't targeting us anyway, they went for older people or those clearly struggling. People were physically trying to shake them off when they grabbed at people's arms. It was frustrating to see, especially picking on those who were vulnerable.
Anyway we continued to climb upwards. I'm being brave as so far it hasn't been too bad but I was nervous with what was to come, due to my crippling fear of heights. Regardless I knew I was going to do this as I'd kick myself forever if I didn't make it to the top.
After the stone steps was a tall spiral staircase with a cage round it (thank god as the drop was...yeah) this led you into an alcove within the giant stone. Inside here was original ancient painting of frescoes - essentially mainly naked woman holding flowers or jewellery. These were in unbelievable condition, largely due to being sheltered from the weather.
After looking at these we went down another spiral staircase cage - thank god there was two to create a one way system, at the bottom it lead out onto a stone pathway hugging the side of the rock. The other side was a large thick wall of stone which was called the 'mirror wall' as it was made to be so smooth people could see themselves in it. Now it's not like that as there is ancient graffiti carved into it so it's protected from being touched. The graffiti apparently describes how amazed they were by the mystery women as dipicted in the frescoes.
The climb continued upwards on narrow limestone steps with no handrail so felt quite precarious. However we made to a flat outcrop before the final level. The final pathway to the top are made up of some original steps and then a metal framed staircase positioned jutting out from the rock. The entrance to the original steps are framed by two large Lions paws made from stone and are in incredible condition. It is believed that once the steps led into what would have been the mouth of a Lion if that was still in tact. Sadly not but what a site that would have been to enter!
The paws were very impressive and it was good to get a safe breather to look at them.
Then it was the final ascent. So far I was pleasantly surprised by the climb, although nerve wracking in places certainly not terrifying. Dam me thinking those thoughts as it was the last flight of stairs that had me shaking!
The final climb was a metal staircase that stuck out from the rock out over the drop (Sigiriya is 660 feet high) and you could see between the steps. I was hanging on the bannister with all my might and desperately concentrating on each step trying not to look down. At this point, now 'vulnerable' along came one of those dam helpers waving his arms in front of me and being frankly a distracting nuisance, not helping me at all. Before I had a chance to tell him to f off, Phil very firmly told him to get lost and he left, thankfully! Well done Phil!
The final final staircase was practically vertical limestone steps with no handrail, I was basically climbing it like a ladder and through myself onto the top. Immediately you can see original foundation walls around the site and the area was heavily levelled. We walked into the centre and started to check out the view, which now was pretty overcast but you can tell you could see for miles. Remember when I said it was a grey day? Now it started to spit with rain so we started to rush around looking at the different areas, such as a huge pool which they believe was part of the palace gardens. Suddenly without warning was a loud rumble and the rain exploded from the sky. There is no shelter on the top of the rock, although there was a tiny tree we bolted towards for cover. Of course that didn't work as now it is monsoon rain. The type of rain where the raindrops are so huge and the power so hard it's almost painful as it hits you and you are soaked through in seconds.
So there we were stuck up on this massive rock, Phil hunched over the bag of belongings trying to keep our stuff dry (failing) and me shaking as water pours down my face and body. What the hell are we going to do now!? It's a pretty funny scenario looking back now but at the time it was not, especially as I had already slipped over and hurt my arm a bit. I kept thinking how on earth am I going to get down that horrendous staircase now it's also raining. Looks like I'm gonna live here forever, I thought.
After awhile the rain eased off but it was still incredibly grey so we knew it wasn't over but thought we should take our chance to get down while not actually raining. As expected the steps was covered in water and ridiculously slippery. So helpful to someone terrified of heights. But I percevered and although the slowest person up there and held back a massive queue of adventureous Sri Lankans I got back down. I'm sure it was laughable to them but I'm proud I did it and without crying too!
Of course now we are sodden to say the least so weren't really in the mood for wandering around much more, although we did go into the museum which was really interesting to see old photos and learn more about the place (and shielded us from another downpour).
From here was a long and soggy journey back to where we saying which included the first bus driver trying to charge double (don't mess with me after what I've been through... he didn't get it) and the second bus being an actual white knuckle ride where even locals were screaming and people were hurled around the bus.
What a day! Although a wash out, honestly what an amazing place Sigiriya is.
BethMeer informatie
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- Dag 36
- zondag 18 december 2016 om 12:00
- ⛅ 4 °C
- Hoogte: 725 ft
Sri LankaSigiriya Wewa7°57’16” N 80°45’29” E
Pidurangala

After our very wet and not so successful day climbing Sigiriya rock we decided to alter our original plan, which was to walk 1km from Sigiriya to the nearby Pidurangala rock, and decided instead to do this the next day. We'd based ourselves in a hotel just outsidde of Polonnaruwa which is about an hours drive away or an hour and a half by bus, so it certainly wouldn't be hard to do and we hoped for better weather so that we could actually enjoy some of the fine views from the top!
Before we could set off for our next hike, however, we had to make a visit to a nearby doctor's surgery: After swimming in a hotel pool Beth's ears had gotten water in them that wouldn't clear, leaving her almost entirely deaf. We'd been trying to self-treat but with no luck so we took a recommendation from our hotel and went to a surgery. Thankfully we were accompanied by the driver who took us there as we had no idea where to go, who to speak to or how it all worked there and he just ushered us through the whole process with half a dozen conversations in Sinhalese.The first doctor had a look and recommended Beth see a ENT (Ear, Nose & Throat) specialist who was based in the nearby hospital, so off we went.
Now when I say hospital it probably isn't what you picture, in two ways. It certainly wasn't up to UK standard (fair enough though, right?) but it also wasn't as bad as you might be picturing. After a few conversations we were to the doctor who could help, Beth's head was clamped into a headlock by a burly nurse and a quick and very deft use of some tools completed syringing her ears and meant Beth's hearing returned, much to the fascination of the half dozen nurses who'd gathered to watch him working...!
The biggest surprise came next however. Two doctor's consultations, examination, treatment, the nurse's time and being taken from place to place by porter's/security cost us.... nothing! Sri Lanka, like the UK, has a national health service that is free at the point of use for all, but despite this we were still expecting to pay especially given that Beth had been rushed through the queues.
We were stunned and really impressed by the whole situation, not to mention relieved that Beth had her hearing back again although it was unfortunately just in time for our rather loud hour tuk tuk ride to Pidurangala, opting for this over the two bus rides we had done the day before as a way of giving ourselves more time for the climb.
On arrival we passed the buddhist monastery that owns the area, a remnant of the time that the rock housed a temple that was a pilgrimage site and after paying a small entrance fee (2000LKR, about £11) we began our climb. Similarly to Sigiriya rock there were steps built into the hillside, often wonky and steep, but they made the climb reasonably easy to begin with. We climbed at the same pace as a group of about 20 teenagers who were on a trip from Colombo (supervised by one very hot and bothered looking mother!) - this had one major positive and one negative. The positive is we enjoyed watching their interactions, continual selfie taking and joking around, all very similar to teenagers everywhere it seems. The negative is that the climb was slowed to almost a crawl by the group, meaning it took the best part of an hour to ascend the steps to the half way point.
At the halfway point is a huge 6m lying buddha, along with the remnants of monk's quarters and other buildings. We enjoyed exploring the small area, also allowing our new friends to climb ahead of us...or so we thought. At this point the steps built into the rock stopped, leaving us to climb and clamber our way to the top. We'd prepared and wore hiking boots, but somehow the group all did this in flip flops although boy were they slow! For 15 minutes we sat waiting for them to climb the final boulders, approximately 15 feet from where we were standing and only up three-four large boulders. To give them credit, though Lonely Planet's guidebook said "fitness levels are majorly tested here" - see the photo of Beth, they were right! She did better than I did, you may be surprised to hear!
When we made it to the top though, the wait had been worth it. Spread across maybe 1sqkm was the top surface of the rock, with incredible views in every direction and a clear and sunny sky to thank us for our efforts! It was a real wow moment when we scrambled off the boulders and was instantly gratified with that sight. There were only about 25 other people at the top, meaning it was easy to feel like the only people there. As with all places where there are people in Sri Lanka there was also three wild dogs, all relaxing in the shade of the couple of trees growing at the summit, until they were coaxed out by the offer of sharing our homemade coconut cake that we tucked into as a reward!
As you can tell from the photos the panoramic views in every direction were brilliant and we were so glad to have returned to the area, especially as we could see Sigirya rock that we had climbed the day before. Having rested well and enjoyed time at the top we took the same route back down the rock and it felt quite easy, probably because we were pumped up from the experience...well, that and the help of gravity.
PhilMeer informatie

cheryl binghamWell done you too and especially Beth. I felt ill just reading your account of the Sigirya climb!
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- Dag 37
- maandag 19 december 2016 om 11:00
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Hoogte: 190 ft
Sri LankaPolonnaruwa Sanctuary7°57’12” N 81°0’15” E
Ancient Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa has been a major religious site, city and, for a few hundred years, the capital of a now long-gone empire. During its approximately 2500 year history it's seen many changes and developments, leaving behind a plethora of remains.
Polonnaruwa area contains just under 30 different main structures, ranging from small temples to 50 foot high solid brick Stupas, surrounded by innumerable smaller buildings whose only lasting remains are their foundations. Impressively one stupa still has it's original lime plaster intact, unscathed despite centuries of jungle growth on and around it.
All can be seen in a day, with a lot of tourists opting to cycle around them given their relatively close proximity, however as Beth didn't want to go through a crash course we felt most comfortable walking around them. This wasn't the wisest decision, but I'll come to that later on!
From our past experiences of ancient temples like Angkor in Cambodia, we had high expectations of what are considered to be the best temples in Sri Lanka. People we've spoken with rate them very highly and some of the photos we'd seen made them look absolutely incredible!
We made an early start for the southern group of temples, in fact just one temple and a carved stone Buddha. It was a great introduction to the ruins, however it was a 45 minute walk to get to them, made longer by the monsoon rains we had to keep hiding from and the humidity was getting higher by the minute! Today we'd learnt our lesson though and were prepared for the rain with coats and an umbrella, but it didn't stop us still getting pretty damp by the time we were back at the main entrance and museum.
At that point we realised it wasn't going to be possible to walk the remaining temples - partly due to the distances involved but the main reason being we couldn't avoid the rains all day unless we had more cover, so we hired a tuk tuk and driver for the rest of the day.
As we went from structure to structure the rain didn't abate, meaning we were able to get only glimpses of the ruins from under the umbrella. We still made our way around the sites and we saw all of them that we had hoped to by about 3pm. The museum had helped us to imagine what the area would have been like before the jungle reclaimed the land surrounding the sites, with thousands of people living and working in the area. We found ourselves thinking 'if these bricks could talk; the stories they'd tell.'
Frustratingly the rain had changed from heavy downpours to a constant deluge, leaving us diving in and out of the tuk tuk and overall it did take away from the experience as we weren't able to walk around some of the sites fully, take as many photos as we'd have liked or to simply amble around as we hoped we would. The day was still filled with impressive sights and it was enjoyable all the same, but won't hold a top spot in our minds we don't think, but perhaps with different weather we may have thought differently.
A further 65 miles north would have taken us to another site of ancient temples at Anuradhapura, however the monsoon rains had a strong hold there and we'd heard that the sites were somewhat underwhelming compared with Polonnaruwa so instead we opted to travel 9 hours south by train.
With the temperature back above 30C and the sun visible in the sky again, the thought of rain was long gone out of our mind as we arrived in Bentota.
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 38
- dinsdag 20 december 2016 om 10:54
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 85 ft
Sri LankaGonulla7°20’6” N 79°56’50” E
Sri Lankan food and drink

As a change from our normal what-we're-up-to I bring to you what-we're-eating-and-drinking!
If I was to ask you what do you eat when in Sri Lanka for a month you'd assume rice and curry, right? Well that's right! Sorry folks, not a massive surprise!
I'm only being half serious there. I'll talk you through some of the every day food, snacks and of course the rice and curry.
Breakfast
Normally in the guesthouses we're staying in the option of Western or Sri Lankan is available. Western is toast (think warmed bread) and egg, jam and fresh fruit juice. It's normally pretty uninspiring however the Sri Lankan breakfast is the way to go. 'String hoppers' are like noodles made with rice flour and often they're put inside a thin pancake that looks almost like a flower in bloom. With this you can have daal, spiced onion, curry, jams and any number of options! Our favourite was a coconut milk based curry with a whole boiled egg in. A staple of any meal here is sambal which is shredded coconut, chilli and spices and normally packs quite a punch!
A lot of Sri Lankan's eat curry for breakfast and it's normally a BIG portion!
Lunch
Normally a lighter meal but curry and rice is an option. More common though is a roti or kottu - rotis are like pancakes with a filling of veg, spices and meat if you like. Coconut roti is simple and delicious, normally only about 15p each as well! Kottu is the same components as roti but all chopped up! Chefs have a large flat heat plate that they fry the ingredients on then when it's all cooked they take two flat blades (wallpaper scrapers?!) and swiftly run them through the piled food, chopping it up small.
Another lunch option is dosai, a very thin pancake in which they put practically any filling, but normally it's curried!
Dinner
The best time of day for a curry! Almost everywhere we've stayed offers to feed you the 'lumprais', the curry of the day. Mainly we've stayed in guesthouses so the lumprais is what the family are eating too, and this is the best way to try some really great food. It's never just one curry though, normally there's about 4 or 5, poppadoms or roti and rice. We've even been to a restaurant that served us about 15 different types of curry including: runner bean, aubergine (our all time favourite!), dried fish, chicken, beef, mango, pineapple and probably the biggest surprise in durian(jackfruit) curry which is the huge green fruit that absolutely STINKS and normally tastes just as bad, but when cooked in a curry it's absolutely delicious!
The cost? About 600-900rupees, so about £3.50-£5 each!
Largely we've eaten vegetarian whilst here, for two reasons. Firstly, food hygiene is ok at best (we've not had any severe upsets by this...yet!) and secondly the quality is often not great with bits of gristle and bone served up regularly.
Fried rice or fried noodles are easily available too but these are just ok, nothing special.
Snacks
On every roadside, in every bus and train station and often ON every bus and train are hawkers who sell fresh fruits like mango, papaya and pineapple. They're also the best place to buy battered roti rolls (healthy!), mini doughnuts, daal biscuits, nuts and Bombay mix. A pretty normal way to buy them is wrapped up in a piece of paper that once was a school kids homework, good recycling Sri Lanka!
More so for tourists than Sri Lankan's are ice creams, which we've probably had one a day of. It is hot, so it's fair enough we think!
Drinks
Iced coconuts are everywhere as Sri Lanka has absolutely no difficulty in growing them. They simply cut a hole in the top and stick a straw in!
Chilled water and fizzy drinks are common although we prefer the iced or hot teas, with every variety you can imagine available and rightly so given Sri Lanka's booming tea industry!
Let's not forget the national beer, Lion. It's a pretty standard lager but is very welcome after a hot and sticky day out. £2 or so is the price for a 500ml can.
Near to the coast the best meal options are the fresh seafood caught that day. From prawns and lobster to red snapper and barracuda, the choice is brilliant. And a whole fish can be yours for less than £5 with salad and rice.
Overall we've enjoyed the foods that Sri Lanka has on offer and the cost is what makes it really great as it has tempted us to try lots of new things. However, by this time we're ready for a change as it has become a bit too samey.
I'll conclude with a nugget of humour we've picked up here:
Similarly to lots of other Asian countries Sri Lanka has very strict drug smuggling laws, with the death penalty a possible punishment. If you think that's a very severe punishment consider 30 years in a Sri Lankan prison being served rice and curry 3 times a day...Meer informatie
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- Dag 42
- zaterdag 24 december 2016 om 18:19
- 🌙 27 °C
- Hoogte: 52 ft
Sri LankaEgodawatta6°51’12” N 79°54’7” E
Sri Lanka - our thoughts!

Beth
Highlight: Seeing Blue whales up close
Lowlight: Being ill at the end with that rash!
Best meal: Mali's seafood restaurant, Bentota. The prawn curry was to die for!
Funniest moment: Phil dancing for those schoolchildren!
Overall: Sri Lanka is a fascinating place and quite a culture of it's own. The scenery is amazing and there are things here you can't see anywhere else in the world. There are some frustrations we both found with the locals attitudes at times, there is definitely a large element of opportunists when seeing foreigners, as if dollar signs appear in their eyes. It happens everywhere from officials to tuktuk drivers. We were expecting to see it a bit but at times it was relentless and you had to be constantly on guard not to be ripped off all the time, for everything. It was tiresome. Don't get me wrong we've met some truly friendly and lovely locals who became friends and I dare not make sweeping statements. However having been there a month (and travelling locally, eg not a private car and driver) we have seen this side of bad tourism. It does somewhat distract at times and is certainly more like India in development than South East Asia for example. Which makes sense where it is on the map.
I did honestly enjoy our time there, but would have not enjoyed it so much alone and would maybe approach things differently next time. But I must say it was still a fantastic experience and a very special place to visit! Somewhere very memorable.
Bucket list ticks: 3!
Phil
Highlight: Hiking through tea plantations at Lipton's Seat, Haputale.
Lowlight: Being pick pocketed!
Best meal: Freshly caught barbecued barracuda, sat on the beach in Mirissa with the sand under my feet and waves lapping at the table.
Funniest moment: Holding onto a bar for my life while standing near the open doorway of a bus hurtling down the side of a mountain to loud bangra music.
Overall: Sri Lanka is an incredibly varied island and in even one or two weeks it would be possible to travel the whole country and experience the vibrant culture, see the big sights like Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa and to immerse yourself in the country. The variety and the people are what I'll remember about Sri Lanka, the good and unfortunately some of the bad too. Having a month there meant we took everything a lot slower but I still didn't get bored, and that says a lot about Sri Lanka.Meer informatie
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- Dag 43
- zondag 25 december 2016
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Hoogte: 33 ft
Sri LankaGodagala Point6°25’9” N 80°0’23” E
Bentota

After the wash out of Polonnarura we decided to move back down south for some much needed sun and relaxation, as well as somewhere nice to be for Christmas.
Having already done a lot of the south we opted for Bentota, which was also only an hour from the airport/Colombo. We booked ourselves for one night into a cheap guesthouse so we could suss out the area before comitting. First impression was that Bentota was quite different to the other coastal areas of Sri Lanka we'd seen. More developed with big fancy resorts on the beach, yet nothing else on the beach and a huge spread of unspoilt sand. No restaurants and few loungers it was a surprising contrast. We realised the next morning (after a rough night in a poor guesthouse) that we wouldn't be able to afford to stay in those 5* resorts, so opted to stay in nearby Althugama, a busy town only a 10 minute walk from the beach. The town is on the Bentota river and we actually found a lovely affordable place to stay with it's on jetty on to the river, garden, swimming pool and balcony with a lovely view over the water. Perfect! After our 1st night here we quickly booked in for over Christmas and the rest of our time in Sri Lanka.
The first few days were purely relaxing. We were both knackered and I had been feeling quite run down (unknowingly to me starting to be taken down by a stomach bacterial infection, but didn't take properly hold until Singapore). But the few days of rest did wonders. We'd swim in the pool, relax, go to the beach then find a nice restaurant for dinner. Not a bad routine.
One day while walking to a popular spot to eat we were approached by a tuktuk driver, instantly we assumed he wanted something but then we struck up conversation and hit it off. He invited us over to his house for dinner and we went. A little appreshive to what we'd agreed to, we ended up in a local village sitting in his half build house while his wife cooked. We sat out on a concentrate veranda chatting, while Phil and Dilip (pretty funny they had such similar names) drank a bottle of whiskey between them. We exchanged stories and had a good laugh. We were then treated to a feast of curries and rice, which we ate the local way with our fingers (not an enjoyable process, I'll stick to a knife and fork in future). Much later, half sloshed he drove us back in his tuktuk. It was a bumpy ride and made even weirder with the sounds of Shaggy's 'it wasn't me' blasting out of his speakers as we weaved down the quiet streets. At one point Dilip just let go of the steering waving his arms and singing, I swiftly planted his hands back into the controls. Thankfully we made it in one peace and he didn't want a penny towards the evening. Quite a unique experience!
Dilip also does day tours and he is helping a teenager set up a river cruise business so he said he could come get us from the hotel jetty. We knew we wanted to explore the wide mangrove filled river so went with him the following morning.
The tour was great fun. It is an impressive river, very wide with islands and huge boulders. One of which we stopped at and climbed on, it was awesome to be out in the middle of the river and would have been quite the isolated sunbathing spot! Dilip cracked his usual jokes and said bye and started to drive the boat away. It was pretty funny but there was a split second when I thought that would be quite the scam, making off with my camera, bag and leaving us stranded... literally. But of course that didn't happen.
We stopped by some locals who are hand raising some baby crocodiles so they can be released back into the river. The eggs don't normally have a very good survival rate so this helps the population. At a few weeks old they were very small yet big enough they could do some damage. So naturally he put the baby crocodile on Phils head. Phil was so taken aback he just laughed and stayed fixed to the spot. Random! But they were sweet and was cool to hold them.
We made some others stops including a coconut farm where we learnt how they make items from the coconut shells including utensils and rope. As we moved on to the main event (going through the mangroves) we suddenly saw a huge crocodile sunning itself on a big rock. Dilip said that was a 'small' one which is pretty crazy as it looked so big to us! We got close then it swiftly disappeared into the water. This was not a boat I wanted to fall off...
And would you believe we saw a lot of locals swimming in the river, madness!
From here we entered into the mangrove area. Phil has had a desire to see mangroves up close for years, so he was incredibly excited and completely awe struck as we glided through the calm waters. We were surrounded with mangroves so large, maybe 10-12m tall and the roots above our heads. The sunlight dappled through and it is incredibly mystical, like going into a lost world. We stopped at one point and climbed up into the branches as they are incredibly strong and felt like monkies enjoying hanging amongst the trees.
That was most definitely the highlight of the tour and in fact the whole area. It was also exactly what Phil hoped it would be and we look forward to exploring more mangroves at some our later destinations.
That afternoon we decided to do with Dilip to the 'brief garden' where an eccentric architect used to live and had some impressive gardens which we enjoyed walking around. There were unusual sculptures and gorgeous landscaping which was nice to see.
For the rest of our time in Bentota we enjoyed relaxing. On Christmas eve we had a 4 course special dinner at one of the fancy beachfronted hotels, which we throughly enjoyed and was a great Christmas treat to ourselves. On Christmas day we went onto Bentota beach itself and enjoyed swimming in the sea, and making sand turtles. Truthfully it didn't feel very 'Christmassey' but we didn't mind too much. We just enjoyed another relaxed day together. Of course we Skyped home and really enjoyed seeing family open presents from us. It was nice not to miss that as we really enjoy seeing people open their gifts.
Over the following days we continued to relax, eat great food and meet people until we were due to leave for an airport hotel on the 27th (early flight on the 28th to Singapore). Now the night of the 26th I hadn't slept well, with a bad stomach and feeling bitten to death by mosquitos. I woke up early at 6am and looked down at my body to find I was covered in a thick raised red rash and that explained feeling more itchy than usual. I woke up Phil as minute by minute I was struggling to cope with the itching and it was spreading. We went down to find some hotel staff (well actually a family who run the hotel) and the mama swiftly bundled me into her car and drove us to a doctor. It didn't come a minute too soon as the itching was everywhere including my eyes and throat. She translated and a doctor swiftly gave some injection (admistered like you would a blood test, weird) and within minutes the itching stopped thankfully. I was then given a big bag of medicine and cream to help. We got back to the hotel and the kindness the family showed me was so heartwarming. I gave the mum (Priya) a huge hug and she refused to take any money for all the driving and insisted on dropping us at the train station. Such a lovely family that run the place there.
Not long after we left for the train back to Colombo. After this we travelled on to our hotel and ended up having an early night ready for our journey onwards to Singapore!
BethMeer informatie

Heather CookeCrocodile on the head.....and you promised you wouldn't be doing anything dangerous..... lovely blog and pics. Look forward to next one.

Phil and BethNot dangerous as it was almost cute, except for the teeth...scales...just about all of it actually!
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- Dag 49
- zaterdag 31 december 2016
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Hoogte: 92 ft
SingaporeTiong Bahru1°16’46” N 103°50’4” E
Singapore (Part One)

Our first glimpses of Singapore were certainly impressive - as the night arrived so did we and as we took a bus from the airport into the city we were both wide-eyed. As we spent more time here we realised that the city really comes to life at night, especially so the cityscape that we were driving past.
We had chosen to stay in central Chinatown, close to dozens of restaurants and bars as well as great transport options, plus exciting streets that had all been decorated ready for Chinese New Year. Our hotel wasn't the most impressive inside or out, but once we'd settled in our second room (the first stank of cigarettes!) we collapsed from the tiring long journey.
Our plan was to stay in Singapore for just a few days to take in all of the sights and to welcome the new year in a glitzy party atmosphere, but that didn't work out for us...
Ever since Beth's early morning visit to the doctor in Bentota, Sri Lanka she'd not been feeling right and the whole journey to Singapore was taken over by excruciating heartburn. This still hadn't passed and the itchy rash returned so we took ourselves to a GP to make sure this wasn't anything more serious.
One hour later and after some very overpriced gaviscon was ingested the heartburn passed. We also found out some of the tablets the Sri Lankan Doctor had given Beth were causing the heartburn - they promptly ended up in the bin! The rash was still present and after a few hours of relaxing at the hotel the heartburn returned once again. At this point we weren't sure what to do but ultimately decided to go to the nearby Singapore General Hospital (SGH) to see another doctor.
Firstly, unlike our Sri Lankan hospital experience SGH actually looked, felt and smelt like hospitals as we know them in the UK. The A&E area also had a four hour queue, so we were in our element! When we did finally see a doctor it was decided Beth would be admitted while they tested what was causing these problems for her.
What happened over the next three days is, again, largely similar to our experience of hospitals in the UK, going from one test to the next while troupes of doctors visit once or twice a day to poke, prod and discuss the latest test results. Initially it all felt like a bit of a waste of time as the conclusion was that it was just a nasty virus but after 2 days they diagnosed a stomach infection (C. Difficile if our Doctor friends are interested!) and began treating it with antibiotics - poor Beth was REALLY ill in the mean time though, and the rash she'd been experiencing was in fact hives caused by the infection, but the three creams and various tablets they gave her should help over the few weeks until it passes.
We were so relieved to have gone to the hospital and, as it turned out, one that is better in many ways than back home. One such thing was when Beth was served a meal of lamb stew with rice and veg, followed by fresh sliced and garnished fruit, that all tasted like real food. The best part though? The man who turned up afterwards to ask for her feedback on how the food was so far during her stay! Not only the food but the staff, systems (like a wheeled PC they used to record all the tablets given and what the doctor had determined/prescribed) and even the cleaning all were great.
For me it could have been worse as well. Our hotel was only 10 minutes walk away, making my morning to and nighttime journey back from the hospital a bit easier. In the complex there were a number of cafes, takeaways and even a food court that all served cheap and tasty food to keep me going through the long days. The staff were very friendly too and dutifully laughed at my repeating the joke that 'Our sightseeing so far had been two pharmacies, one doctor and the hospital!'
Anyway, a few hours before midnight on New Year's Eve Beth was moved to a private room (the infection is pretty contagious...) but despite being 6 floors high we, unfortunately, still had a limited view of the city. This meant we did miss the main fireworks display but there were others appearing over the city that we watched as 2017 arrived. Although not where we thought we'd welcome the new year in, it was still how we thought we'd do it - together.
The next morning - New Year's Day - at the time we thought we'd be flying to our next destination in Indonesia, Beth was discharged from hospital with a full carrier bag of medicine to take for the next two weeks. Thankfully she was feeling better overall, just weak and in need of more rest.
We changed our travel plans to stay in Singapore for a few more days so Beth could continue to recover and then we hoped to see some of the sights!
From Singapore to all our family and friends we wish you a happy new year.
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 54
- donderdag 5 januari 2017
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 82 ft
SingaporeChinatown1°16’50” N 103°50’30” E
Singapore (Part Two)

Now that Beth was out of hospital we wanted to achieve two things in Singapore:
1 - Get Beth well, ready to continue our travels.
2 - See some of Singapore!
We took it pretty easy for the next 5 days, booking a flight for 6th January, keeping a couple of days to go slowly and then to get out into the city. After a couple of days doing little beyond finding a fun place to eat and catching up on some 2016 blockbusters (finally some good internet!) we decided we'd start our sightseeing by going to Gardens by the Bay.
The gardens swing a few hefty facts about, like that it cost $1billion and that they're built on reclaimed land. Pretty impressive but we found that walking around them was even more so. They've a number of themed gardens you can stroll around but their main attraction is two large glass and steel domes, both air conditioned to provide the thousands of plants inside an environment that easily makes you forget you're in a sweltering Asian city.
The first of the domes we visited was the Flower Dome. You guessed correctly, it's full of flowers! Beyond that though there's also an incredible variety of themed areas like the Mediterranean garden, shaded by a giant olive tree, and the Madagascar area with iconic Baobab trees. This would be enjoyable to walk around but they've also included a number of fun wood, metal and stone sculptures including some very impressive dragons! As we were visiting just after Christmas they still had their 'Winter Wonderland' decorations out which finally made us feel a little festive...just a little too late for Christmas 2016, but they were still great to see.
The second dome is called Cloud Forest and is named so as it centres around a 30m high artificial mountain, covered in lush plants and topped by a gorgeous garden and water fountain that flows down the side of the mountain in a huge waterfall. It's quite a sight and has a very mysterious and magical feel to it, made more so by the countless carved dragons hidden amongst the flora. Impressively Beth made it to the top and down again, despite the way down being a series of see-through suspended walkways.
The other main attraction at the gardens is The Supertrees. Named so because of their design intended to look like towering trees, they have a huge number of colourful plants growing up them but the real highlight comes at night when they dance with light in time to music. It's hard to describe the fun and enjoyment you get from experiencing this show, which lasts for about fifteen well-choreographed minutes. This was a real highlight for us and as most of it was Christmas themed we couldn't help but sing along!
A short walk past the gardens takes you to another part of Singapore's recent development, the iconic Marina Bay Sands hotel and it's paired mall The Shoppes. The hotel itself is HUGE and walking under one of the arches was more than enough of it, although you can go up to a viewpoint 55 stories high! At that point we nearly went back to the hotel as we were exhausted from walking around the gardens but decided to have a quick walk through the mall while we were there and we were so glad we did - each evening they have their own light and laser show, where images are projected onto a water mist in the middle of the marina while music helps tells the story, with lasers, smoke and bubbles all joining in - it's a very impressive sight and we so nearly missed it, but are so glad we didn't!
The next day we went to the Chinatown Heritage Museum to learn more about the migrants who arrived in the late 19th century to settle in what is now Chinatown and how they lived and worked. The museum was very interactive and showed an example of a typical house with a number of businesses and well over 50 people living within; it was definitely not big enough, with some rooms sleeping a family of 8! We really enjoyed learning the history of the area and as this was our only museum out of dozens in Singapore we were happy with our choice...until we can visit again and see more!
All over Singapore there are countless options of where to eat, with TripAdvisor counting over 10,000! We mainly ate at food courts, found in shopping centres and in cow-shed like buildings dotted around the city. Some of the best food we had was a few quid, served in a plastic bowl and eaten at simple picnic style benches. Singapore is a foodie delight and even at 3am you won't struggle to find your dim sum fix. It also caters to a different palate entirely with - I'll put it plainly - some VERY gross options like fried fish head or leavened pork intestines. Even I wasn't brave enough to taste them!
For our final day in Singapore we went to the zoo, arriving about 1pm. The site is outside of the main part of the city and as we arrived we realised why - it's huge and has a lake as a part of it! We spent 5 hours in the main zoo walking between the different areas and we were amazed at the variety of animals they had, including some we'd never seen or even heard of before like the babirusa and hamadryas baboon (which takes the title of grossest looking bum of all primates).
What we were really impressed with was the enclosures, or lack of, that we saw around the complex. The orang-utan's area was an island with a large climbing frame type structure on it, surrounded by a little water but with a number of tall and large trees around it that meant they could choose whether they wanted to stay there or go swing in the trees - enjoyably, most did this when we were there! We also saw Inuka the polar bear being fed (yes this was the best thing to happen in 2017 so far!!!!) and a squad of playful otters, which were our highlights.
After a light dinner we then went back into the zoo complex but this time to their night safari, aptly named given that you climb aboard a silent tram type cart that takes you on a trip around another part of the zoo where the focus is on nocturnal animals. Some of the enclosures were very safari-esque, with wild deer, banteng and tapir amongst some of those we were within feet of. Thankfully the more dangerous animals were separate, but we still got to see moon bear, hyena and tigers all enjoying the cool darkness. They also have a few walking trails laid out that weave through the remainder of the park, giving even more opportunity to see some incredible animals up close. Beth was flagging by this point (it was 9pm and we were still going!) so limited how much she saw but I did the full walk before we met up again to see a pangolin (never heard of it before? It's the world's most trafficked animal and is used extensively in Chinese medicine) and another group of otters who all screamed at us, presumably hoping for food!
The zoo was the best we've been to and although it was a very full on day it was an incredibly exciting way to spend our final day in the country before our journey on to Indonesia.
PhilMeer informatie

Heather CookeFab, fab and fab! Sounds brill and the pics all lovely, sad face 'nil by mouth' not so happy but great to see a snatch and hear something of your adventures. Love mum and dad x
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- Dag 58
- maandag 9 januari 2017
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 36 ft
IndonesiëPangkung Kedampang8°40’44” S 115°10’7” E
Bali

Unlike the original plan of travelling across land from Yogyakarta, because of me being ill we flew directly into Bali with a new flight.
We had only 4 days here so knew we wouldn't be up to pushing ourselves so planned a leisurely few days and one day of sightseeing.
We were very lucky in that my dad has a Marriott timeshare and let us use some of his points so we could have a free stay in a very nice hotel. Oh how it was appreciated. Genuinely the bathroom was the size of our entire room and bathroom in the last dump of a hotel we stayed at! It was amazing to have some western comforts too, including a bed long enough for Phil and sun loungers by the pool.
We arrived around dinner time and explored the nearby streets which were absolutely full of restaurants, spas, supermarkets and more. Its was not going to be hard to find food options, although maybe too much choice!? Anyway we settled on a cute cafe and each had some Indonesian classics like nasi goreng and chicken satay, pretty delicious. And of course a stop at an obligatory ice cream parlour afterwards. Then we went back and had an amazing nights sleep in that dreamy bed, not waking til 10am.
The following day we decided to go to the nearby beach (double six beach). The hotel had loungers we could use so we were looking forward to a day relaxing there. Sadly the beach was not what we were expecting. I won't sugarcoat it- the beach was filthy! The sand was grey and as you got closer to the water there was rubbish everywhere washed in from the water, it was shocking. We walked along and rubbish would wash in over your feet along with the waves. It's unbelievable.
We then saw a digger rising along the sand collecting all the plastic and litter. The scooper was full and we saw it go back and forth. Phil explored going into the water but it was dirty (no white froth, literally brown) we decided it was not hygienic enough. How disappointing and more to the point, harrowing. How sad to see mankind destroying the beauty of our planet with our waste.
We left the beach for the afternoon and returned to our hotel pool to cool off. Another relaxing evening ahead with finding a lovely restaurant with a very talented live band and that concluded another day. The time just flew here!
The next day we had a full day tour planned to see some of the sights. It was going to be a long day starting at 8:30am and not getting back til 7pm however we would see a lot.
Our first stop was the elephant cave, that had an elaborate carved cave entrance and some lovely temples and grounds. We really enjoyed this first stop, a very beautiful place surrounded with jungle.
Our next stop was the famous holy water temple, Tirta Embul. People travel from all over to bless themselves in the pools and flowing fountains. We happened to go on a Sunday and being a holy day it was packed with people! So we didn't get in ourselves but I did have a little refresh with some water on my face and neck, it was very cooling on such a hot day.
We drove on to the base of a volcano for lunch. We went to a very good restaurant that has a cracking view of the volcano and the lava stained lands. It's still active but hasn't gone off since 2004. We ate a fabulous indonesian buffet with some of the best local food we've tasted, even the fried rice was delicious. After stuffing our faces and enjoying the view we got caught in an almighty downpour and had to wait it out for awhile before returning to the car, I guess that is what happens when up high.
Onwards we went to a stop we were really looking forward to, Tengallang terraces and rice paddys. The view is amazing, stretching out in front of you for miles are highly defined rice paddys, layered up in terrace formations so water can flow to all of them.
We went for a wander round, climbing through the terraces and enjoying the views. At this point the sun was really beating down and we were flagging so could have spent hours there, however on this occasion we just explored some areas.
Now our driver said we still had time to go to the most famous temple in Bali so we took this chance and drove to the coast to see Tanah Lot. A temple perched on its on island that gets cut off by the tide in the evening. Also a very holy temple to the local people, so much so only Balinese people are allowed to actually go on to the island.
We wandered down through the crowds a few hours before sunset and got as close as you can the other side of the tide. It did keep its air of mystery being isolated like that so we enjoyed seeing it.
We arrived back at our hotel pretty knackered at 7pm so had a leisurely dinner and went back to the hotel. Unfortunately Phil had caught too much sun and wasn't feeling too well with some mild sunstroke. This lead to an early night and some more relaxing days by the pool, nice meals and even a massage. It was like a mini holiday within this trip!
It was not quite the Indonesian experience we had been looking for, but it'll just have to happen next time!
BethMeer informatie
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- Dag 61
- donderdag 12 januari 2017
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 144 ft
AustraliëTarndanyangga34°55’38” S 138°35’58” E
Adelaide and Kangaroo Island

Our first stop in the world's sixth largest country, Australia, is the city of Adelaide.
We arrived early morning and after dropping our bags at our hotel we took to the streets to explore the area. We were 5 minutes walk down the road from the Central Market (more on that later) and a main road into the centre. It immediately felt strange being in a developed country as we walked along a proper pavement and watched drivers drive well (ie stay in lane, stop at pedestrian crossings etc), and before we knew it we'd walked all the way into the main shopping strip were we found a cafe for breakfast - they had bacon!!
After a little retail 'therapy' we had a look around the Museum of South Australia which houses hundreds of excellent taxidermy creatures and our first experience of some aboriginal history. The whole place was really well laid and thought out and we really enjoyed a few hours there.
The lack of sleep from our overnight flight caught us up at this point so we relaxed by the river opposite the Oval cricket ground. Despite being a clear-skied hot day we already felt the difference with the lower humidity here so didn't feel that hot, a strange yet pleasant feeling for us!
Next up we took the free city tram back to the Central Market, home to dozens of food stalls, delis and cafes that all create a foodie paradise. We settled on a loaf of artisan sourdough olive bread, a slab of goats cheese, spicy humous and cheesy tart which was a real feast! We devoured it all, then slept. I can't say whether it was the late night or if we fell into a cheese induced slumber, but either way it was very needed and got us ready for the evening ahead of us.
Another short tram ride to nearby Glenelg took us to a beautiful beach where we ate ice creams and watched the sun set after our first day in Australia - and what a sunset it was!
6am came around way too fast, when we were awake and picked up for our tour to Kangaroo Island. The early morning was hard but made easier by our excitement at the day ahead and after a drive around the city picking up our coach load we headed into the countryside (but not before driving right past our hotel, an hour after we'd been originally picked up - we could've slept in after all!)
Nearly two hours journey went fast as we snoozed and spotted kangaroos doing the same in the shade just off the side of the road and we arrived into the port where we would take the ferry to Kangaroo Island, where we were told that ironically it was unlikely we'd see any more kangaroos! Thankfully the sea was still for the hour crossing so we caught some rays on the top deck, then we were ushered back into a coach to begin the tour properly!
Our first stop was a further hour drive to Seal Bay where we were guided to a sandy crescent by a ranger to find dozens of seals and their pups lounging around in the sand. We stood about 5 metres from them with an entirely uninterrupted view of them as they played with each other, a mother fed her calf and they milled about as if we weren't there - it was an incredible experience and we were both buzzing from it and could've happily spent much more time there if we didn't have to carry on.
After a delicious lunch of chicken and beef with a spread of salads we carried on to our next sight - a Koala sanctuary. It didn't take long at all to spot one in the trees and as we walked through a boulevard of eucalyptus trees we kept on finding more and more. The highlights were a mother and baby and a larger bear sat in a very low branch, almost asking for us to take selfies with him! They're surprisingly big but every bit as gorgeous as we thought they would be. Again we had to carry on before we were really ready to leave, and we started to realise that coach tours are great for seeing lots but at too fast a pace for us (as it turns out it is also the only way we could have afforded to do it though).
We travelled on to the far West coast where we visited two viewpoints, the first named Remarkable Rock and the second Admiral's Arch. Both were fun to take photos around and to enjoy the scenery but the latter was our favourite as there were more seals lying in the shelter of the arch-covered cove.
At this stage it was time for us to begin the now-epic journey back to the ferry port, crossing the entire island with enough time to quickly stop for a pizza in the town around the port. We really enjoyed the beautiful Kangaroo Island but could have happily spent another day or two exploring it at a more leisurely pace.
The drive back on the mainland went quick enough and it was dark as we arrived back into Adelaide at nearly 11pm.
The next day we woke up to torrential rain and headed to the airport in the hope that we'd leave the poor weather behind as we flew an hour to Melbourne.
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 63
- zaterdag 14 januari 2017
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Hoogte: 164 ft
AustraliëMelbourne37°48’50” S 144°57’39” E
Melbourne & Philip Island

After an hour flight we arrived at the tiny Avalon airport just outside of Melbourne city. We'd hired a rental car in advance, as we planned to also drive the Great Ocean road while we were here and loop back round to the airport before leaving. We had a bit of an issue when we came to collect which was that they'd changed the car from a manual to automatic and had no manual cars available. I have never driven an automatic before and didn't really want to try in a new country, in a rental and certainly not on the Great ocean road which I really wanted to enjoy driving. The lady said we could drive to Melbourne's other international airport to pick up a manual, which wasn't a massive detour so we thought we'd do that. I did have a little go with the automatic but just felt I wanted to be comfortable for this part of our trip so we drove on.
On arrival we experienced a pretty horrible guy at this office who not only was incredibly rude about the whole situation, but we discovered later he had forgotten (couldn't be bothered) to add me as a driver! Which obviously was the entire reason for the extra effort. We wanted to share the driving, share the experience, clearly! Later we saw him finishing for the day as we left so obviously he couldn't wait to get rid of us so he could go home. Safe to say we were frustrated by now. But we got it sorted and got to our airbnb and collapsed. Later we popped out to a supermarket and got some pasta, sauce and a huge tub of ice cream which we ate back at the house later. It was quite nice to have a simple cooked meal and to have some comfort food after all the stress. FYI it was a 1 litre tub of chocolate ice cream, I'm not even ashamed.
The following morning we wanted to go into Melbourne itself, and via another car rental office we got me listed as a driver and thankfully were able to get on with our day quickly. We parked by some cute gardens and proceeded to wander around the city. When we pulled up we did try to use a ticket machine but some locals told us it was free... being a Saturday that was somewhat surprising but with barely any signs and a machine not working, we figured that must be correct. I'll come back to that later...but no prizes if you're anticipating what is coming...
Anyway, we wondered down the river and through the parks, the tennis open was starting over the next few days so the place was a buzz with setting everything up for it. We got to Federation square (similar to Trafalgar square) and wandered around this area, also popping into one of their museums and enjoying some very interactive exhibits about the history of film and TV. Phil even got to try out his inner Matrix with recreating the classic slow moves in this special machine. What a big kid, he loved it!
After wandering around we started looking for affordable food places and discovered a crammed street full of small shop fronts and tiny cafes. It was packed, but we got a little table and enjoyed some freshly made crepes, and an ice cream after of course! We then hopped on their free tram service to head back to the car. We had some big plans for the afternoon.
Imagine our horror as we arrive at the car, yes a parking ticket! With some cryptic message of what rule we'd broken. We were so annoyed because we had tried to pay and felt tricked some how. Plus is was $78 dollars, over a half days budget. Gutted! We think we'll appeal it as there was little to no signage but if not I guess it's just something you have to learn from. But seriously talk about car issues over a 24 hour period!
Anyway trying to not let that dampen our day, we hit the road for a 2 hour drive to Philip Island, where a very special natural phenomenon happens. This island has the largest colony of 'Little penguins' that breed and nest on one of the beaches there. Every night there is a 'penguin parade' at sunset where all the adult penguins come home to the shore. This colony has thousands of penguins so can you imagine this sight? We knew we wanted to see it. The area is very protected but you can buy tickets to sit and watch their arrival and walk over wooden boardwalks which are raised over the land where they nest. We purposely got there early to land good seats, you could pay extra for better viewing areas but being quite pricey (and largely fully booked) we just went for general admission. We were several hours early so went down the road to another nature reserve called the Nobbies where there are also penguins, and seals. It was a bright sunny day but down there the wind was unbelievable and we were genuinely pushed around, which is probably why we saw no wildlife here at that time, I couldn't blame them with wind like that! The scenery was pretty stunning though and seeing waves like that was pretty jaw dropping.
We went back to the penguin parade area and looked around their information exhibits until the doors opened at 7pm. As soon as they opened I flew down the boardwalk and knew exactly where I wanted to sit, and would you know we got right down on the front row, right on the edge, which usually has the best view of the tickets we'd selected. It was still 2 hours til the penguins were due to arrive but the beach itself was stunning. We ate our picnic dinner and chatted to an Australian couple next to us, so it was hardly a chore. The viewing lasts 50 minutes from when the first penguin hits the beach but they recommend you also walk around the boardwalks to see them greet their babies at their nesting boxes.
Suddenly we saw some small shapes in the water and there they were, a group of about 15 tiny penguins nervously running in with a wave. The first thing I noticed was they really were tiny, the size of a 30cm ruler! It was quite dark now and there was only low lighting so we had to carefully watch them to see. We'd already learnt that this is their most vulnerable time and they are very scared running back home because of predators like eagles, so they would keeping running onto the sand, then would get spooked and run back into the water, sometimes 3 or 4 times. Oh my god it was adorable. They'd also hide amongst the rocks halfway across and try to gang up together in bigger groups ranging from 3 to 30 of them together. Honestly it was magical!
At first we were seeing them from quite a distance, but then they'd come closer and closer. You could see them hop across the rocks as they made their way up the dunes into the bushland where their nests were. You also started to hear their babies high pitched calls and when they'd commit and run the last bit it was lovely, you were really rooting for them. Groups of them kept coming and coming from all directions, you didn't always know where to look.
Surprisingly lots of people left really early on into the viewing so at one point I went down onto the sand and 3 penguins came running towards me and around me to safety, amazing.
After this we went up to the board walks to see them up close. They were everywhere, and would you believe there was probably only 30 people walking around now (it can hold 3000 visitors!) Crazy that so many people left so early; too early. Their loss! We'd kneel down on the path and they would be right there in your face, but completely oblivious as they wandered around and fed their young. In fact one mummy fed her fluffy tiny baby right by me. So sweet... even if she is throwing up fish into it's mouth from her belly! Even as we slowly made our way up back to the visitor centre with the rangers they were running along side us. The ranger confirmed that we'd seen 727 that evening. There were even some viewing holes where we saw nearly hatched penguins with their mothers, they were only the size of my palm.
Truly it was an absolutely magical sight and the only place in the world you can see so many. I think I've found my new favourite animal...
There was strictly no photography or video to be taken but you can see a professional pic below to get an idea of what it was like.
After this, as walked back to the car ready for a late and long drive back something moved in the tree behind the fence. We walked over and suddenly this massive possum appears on the fence right in my face, after the initial jump it kept staring at me and I was in such close promixity I was a bit worried it was about to jump on me, but I was frozen to the spot. They are very cute but have massive claws and teeth so dared not touch, but how great to see them wild and so close too.
As we pulled away Phil spotted a snake on the side of the road, what a wildlife haven (although I did hit the gas with that final discovery!)
We arrived back at 1am and crashed out, ready for a morning flight onto Sydney!
BethMeer informatie

Heather CookeShame re car pick up/parking ticket but fab penguin experience on the appropriately named 'Philip island'! so cute💕 Crepe looks yummy. Can't wait to see more photos! X

Phil and BethCrepe and penguins were both great in different ways, such an incredible experience to have had!! I can't imagine having to run across a beach being chased by something that is a) much bigger than me, and b) can fly!
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- Dag 64
- zondag 15 januari 2017
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Hoogte: 56 ft
AustraliëPort Campbell Bay38°37’11” S 142°59’47” E
The Great Ocean Road

Leaving Melbourne in the mid morning, we set off in our car toward Australia's Great Ocean Road, which wends it's way along sheer cliffs, through dense forest and beside innumerable beaches. We planned to drive about 280km (175miles) of it over two days, so we could really enjoy it and take our time. The road was built by soldiers returning to Australia after World War One and largely was built using little machinery, creating a more direct route along the coast to join up a number of towns and serves as a memorial to their lost comrades.
The drive south from Melbourne to where the road begins at Torquay took about an hour and a half and was uneventful before our first stop just outside the town.
Torquay itself is a quaint seaside town with not a lot going for it so we instead stopped at the first of the many beaches we'd be passing over the next couple of days, called Bell's beach. A golden stretch of sand below sheer bush-topped cliffs, the beach isn't the main event here. Instead it's the world class surf that was playing host to a qualifying round of a junior's surfing competition. We enjoyed watching the powerful white waves carrying the surfers on the waves for a while but as it was really windy and quite cold (yes, cold!) we headed back to continue our drive.
The next hours drive was to the town of Lorne and was possibly our favourite part of the road. The tarmac has been hewn and mined into the rock face adjacent to the sea all along this stretch of coast as well as passing half a dozen beaches, all of which were practically deserted. The road also has a great selection of lay-bys and viewpoints which meant it was rare for us to drive more than 10 minutes without stopping for a walk or selfie, all the time surrounded by stunning scenery.
Follow this link for a quick video to give a taste of our experience: https://goo.gl/photos/skDc8eJPoyhbhsVt7
We arrived into Lorne at lunch time and found that even though it wasn't hot or sunny the beach and promenade area were HEAVING with holidaymakers, foreign and domestic. Once we'd found somewhere to park we had a brief walk along the beach and surrounding shops and cafes, before deciding to find ourselves a more secluded spot to have our picnic, which we topped up with an award winning steak pie (FYI my time in Newcastle has made me too partial to Greggs, so while the pie was nice it wasn't as good as a steak bake!). We found our perfect spot at Teddy's Lookout, 5 minutes drive from the town it's a viewpoint on a hill about 80m above the road, winding over the mouth of a river with dense forest facing inland and uninterrupted sea facing out. We had a leisurely lunch but continued on the road shortly after.
We took it in turns driving the nippy Micra and even though driving the road is a popular tourist attraction it didn't feel busy on the road or at the different stops we made aside the road. As I was driving past a campsite Beth suddenly called for me to stop as fast as I could, and after pulling over we ran across the road to where a wild koala was having a snooze in a low branch by the side of the road - how Beth spotted it as we went past at 50mph on the other side of the road I don't know but it meant we had the moment all to ourselves!
By the time we arrived at our overnight stop of Apollo Bay it was 5pm and as we pulled up to our beachfront hostel the sun finally came out, which was just in time for us to take a walk along the best beach we'd seen all day. A huge bay of golden sand with turquoise water lapping at the shore. There were a few rock pools which I had a look in as we walked past, until out of nowhere an octopus appeared in one! We were captivated, watching it swim around the pool it had made it's home in for a while before our hunger got the better of us and we climbed through some dunes to the port where we had fresh fish and chips- a real seaside experience for us!
It had gone dark now and after our little sleep the night before combined with a long day of driving we were ready to rest and crashed out until we were ready to carry on after a good night's sleep and a bacon sandwich the following morning!
Unlike the first day it was a hot and sunny day, and we were glad of the AC as we drove through Great Otway National Park, with lush forest towering either side of the road. We stopped at Cape Otway lighthouse, one of a series built along the coast here in the early 1800s to reduce the ever-increasing toll on boats who found it hard not to get shipwrecked there, with over 200 lost in the period the lighthouses were being built.
The next section of the road was further inland until just over an hour later we arrived at a place called Gibson's Steps, 70 odd steps down to yet another beautiful beach with a view of one part of The Twelve Apostles, the star attraction of the Great Ocean Road. The rock formations jut out of the ocean making for some very dramatic scenery and it was no surprise that we took loads of photos there!
A short drive in land through more forested terrain took us to Port Campbell, a sleepy town with a handful of shops and cafes. The day was incredibly hot, especially compared to our first day on the road, so a heavily air conditioned restaurant made a very welcome stop for lunch before we continued on!
Penultimate was a visit to 'London Bridge' which is a rock arch over the ocean with waves crashing through it. Until a few years ago there was a second arch adjacent to it but the 'bridges' only bare the weather so long before they collapse. This means that if you want to see the last bridge left there, go soon just in case!
Finally we stopped at the ominous 'Grotto'. Sheltered above sea level but below the height of the surrounding cliffs was a small pool of crystal clear fresh water, viewed through an arch of stone. Nature created this through a sink hole that has carved a path toward the sea, leaving a beautiful and tranquil spot now. Sadly we couldn't swim in the water there due to the number of tourists who would do the same if it were allowed, but it suited us well anyway as we hopped back in the car and drove a highway back to the airport for our flight to Sydney. The couple of days were really incredible and we could have easily spent even longer at the various places along the route - it comes highly recommended by us!
PhilMeer informatie
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- Dag 70
- zaterdag 21 januari 2017
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Hoogte: 33 ft
AustraliëThe Domain33°52’11” S 151°13’2” E
Sydney

We flew into Sydney arriving at 10pm so went straight to our prebooked hostel via an uber. Pretty much straight to bed, although the room was sweltering hot so wasn't the best nights sleep, so we slept in the next day. We got our bearings and did some jobs in the morning such as laundry and going to a supermarket, how glamorous life is on the road!
About midday we got the train to go and explore the city. We walked out at Circular Quay station and it takes you right out onto a promenade area, with Harbour Bridge on your left and the Opera house on your right. Wow! It's very surreal to see such iconic buildings in person. We strolled down to the opera house and enjoyed taking it all in. At this point in the day it was 42 degrees and I'm not sure we've ever been in such heat, even the aussies were struggling.. so we had to keep stopping in the shade to recover. We walked on through the botanical gardens then back round to the harbour to head over to the famous bridge. We didn't realise how high the bridge is over the water, so we had to do a lot more walking up hill to get to walk over it. So we needed an ice cream stop then continued on.
We got to the base of one of the pylons that supports the bridge and you can go inside to a lookout at the top. On the way up was also a exhibition of history about the bridge which was actually really interesting. It took 8 years to build, is an absolute feet of engineering and had some interesting stories. It was here long before the Sydney Opera house and in a lot of ways we feel more impressive. We got to the windy top and had some amazing views across the city.
After this we strolled up Observatory hill behind the bridge, where there is a park that a lot of locals go to and it has a wonderful view of the bridge and city.
At this point we were exhausted and hot, so headed back to the hostel for a home cooked meal of pasta and sauce (cheap and cheerful).
After a very hot night we were up early for a tour to the Blue Mountains. It took an hour to get to one of the mountain towns where we stopped for a breakfast bite to eat, then we went off to our first valley stop with an amazing view. We then proceeded to do a mild hike down into the valley and up over a waterfall. We'd walk through overhanging rock faces and through the bush, every step another fantastic view. It was hard work as it was still 40 degrees but we took it slow, taking pictures and chatting to our leader Rod. Phil and I were at the back leisurely enjoying the surroundings, when Phil suddenly raced up to me saying he'd just seen a snake off the path staring at him. We described it to our leader and thankfully it was 'just a python' not one of the very poisonous ones... great. It was a beautiful walk, then we headed back to the bus for our next stop.
Another amazing valley and another great walk to a smaller but higher waterfall and up through the bush a bit more. Our group did go very fast rushing through areas so Phil and I would hang back to enjoy the views and scenery more.
Our next stop was lunch. Much needed by now after the heat and walking. We went to a local park and we had a buffet style make your own wraps station we made up. Rod our leader had a wrap with ham, cheese, salad, tomato, beetroot, pineapple and thousand island sauce. I thought this looked weird but he told me to be less British and try something different ha! And would you know, it was actually nice. Who would have thought.
A few wraps later we went onwards to a secret viewpoint of the three sisters, the most famous viewpoint in the blue mountains, and there wasn't a soul there. It definitely was a secret spot and a fab view. After this we went to the main viewing area of the three sisters which was of course full of foreign tourists. Great to see it up close though.
Finally we went to our last spot, another secret area which was our favourite. A huge rock outcrop that you can walk out on and you have a 360 degree view all around of the vast valleys and mountains. Stunning, and again only a few other people there. I was a little nervous as it was quite a drop, no barriers and windy, so I didn't venture too close to the edge. But sat and enjoyed the view all the same. It was now a little cooler and therefore able to enjoy the vast views and blue skies more.
We got back to the city for around 5:30pm and was buzzing from such a great day, and just the type of relaxed, active, less touristy tours that we enjoy (check out the Happy Coach company Sydney if you are there and want to go). After another supermarket dinner at our hostel, we started to chatting to some french guys also staying there and ended up chatting and drinking til 1am. They were lovely and we had some great laughs as we tried to perfect their English and we attempted their accents.
Our next day in Sydney we were slow getting up again after our late night. But once we got going we headed out to the coast. We went just south of Coogee beach to an ocean pool which I'd read about called Mahon pool. Which is essentially a giant rock pool that you can swim in. They are all over Australia, but this one was very quiet and had beautiful clear water, as well as surrounding impressive rock areas to sit and relax. It felt chilly at first, as it was subsatinally cooler that day and slightly overcast, but still very refreshing, and quite exciting having the waves wash over into the pool. After awhile we got out and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the neighbouring rocks. Definitely a lovely way to spend a Thursday morning! After we hopped onto a bus to Coogee beach to do the coastal walk from there to the famous Bondi beach.
We went walking around bay after bay, and enjoying each small area along the walk. It takes roughly about 2 hours to do, although for us it was more like 3 as we were very tired and kept stopping for breaks and to look around. Each bay was full of surfers who are mesmerising to watch. The waves are not tame here and warnings everywhere about rip currents, and yet they are so graceful and in control, we loved watching them.
Twisting between two bays was a large rocky outcrop with deep holes in the rock so we even had a natural 'stone sofa' with back rest which we sat in to watch the surf.
One of the beaches we walked across was covered in small blue bottle jellyfish, we certainly weren't going to be swimming there (there was still people in the water though, crazy). Along the coastal walk there is a huge graveyard facing out to sea, which we ended up walking through, as the path was diverted through there because of coastal path damage. It had very elaborate grave stones and possibly one of the largest sites I've ever seen.
Eventually we turned the corner and saw Bondi, the largest beach yet. We had a little stroll round there but then hopped on the bus back to the city, having had plenty of beach and sea time that day.
After dinner at the hostel we decided to go see the city at night. So we went to Opera bar which is situated at the base of the Opera house and with a perfect view of the bridge and city skyline. It was all very beautiful lit up at night. We sat on the edge of the water, cocktail in hand and listened to some live music. Pretty perfect way to spend the evening.
On our final day we woke to heavy rain. Undeterred we went to the city centre to get a ferry to the area of Manly. The ferry have some wonderful views so we enjoyed the 30 minute ride. Once there we walked to the main Manly beach and got very wet! Thankfully we found a picnic pavilion so could get cover while we had our sandwiches for lunch. Suddenly the rained stopped and the sun came out, just in time. We wanted to go to the Q station, now a museum and resort but was once the Quarantine station for all ships if people were suspected of carrying illness, so as to stop it spreading to Australia. We missed the bus by 30 seconds so waited with a delicious ice cream for an hour for the next one.
Once we got there we walked down through the different areas (originally third class, second and first class areas, and asiatic class were segregated). Of course first class had the best sea views. The area led down onto a private beach which is the same one quarantined people would have played on. Sometimes the quarantine experience was like a mini holiday if they weren't ill, and just had to wait out some time to ensure they weren't incubating illness. We went round the museum which was fascinating with great detail, personal accounts and artifacts. It talked about all the pandemics they managed to control spreading through Australia because of quarantining like the bubonic plague and Spanish influenza. There was also also a large rock face just outside which was covered in "grafitti" of people who had stayed there with messages of remembrance or poetry of their time there. Quite an amazing pocket of history there.
We were there a lot longer than expected so had to get back asap to get ready for our evening plans. Missing the bus again by 30 seconds so we weren't getting very lucky!
However we got back, freshened up and headed out to Bondi to meet my good friend Katie who I used to work with, and moved out to Sydney nearly 6 months ago. We sat on a lovely restaurant veranda and ate delicious food while we had a major catchup. It was so great to see her, for her to meet Phil and to hear how she was getting on down under. Loving it of course. We went on to a bar for another drink and really enjoyed chatting away and exchanging stories. It really was wonderful to see her.
Next morning we were up early ready to continue north up to Brisbane and leave the bright lights behind.
BethMeer informatie

cheryl binghamWow, 40degrees. That beats the -16 degrees that we had the other day!
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- Dag 71
- zondag 22 januari 2017
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Hoogte: 43 ft
AustraliëVictoria Bridge27°28’22” S 153°1’16” E
Brisbane

Arriving into Brisbane mid morning we collected our hire car for the next ten days so that we can travel at our own pace...and actually decide what we want to do, as our planning became a bit poor at this point!
We dropped our bags off at an Airbnb we were staying at and were greeted by the owners and their friendly cavalier pups. Wanting to make the most of the day we headed straight back out to the nearby Mount Coot-Tha, which has a lookout with views for miles in every direction including over the whole of Brisbane CBD (Central Business District). We had incredible views and enjoyed an ice cream while taking it in, until we saw a rainstorm coming. Just as we got back to the car the deluge began - there's something about us and being in high places when it rains loads!!
After the busy few days we'd had we called it a day there and enjoyed a relaxed evening, accompanied by the dogs (they enjoyed sitting all over us more than we did I think!)
Up early the next day as we had big plans for the day - Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. We arrived there shortly after they opened as we knew we had loads we wanted to see there, starting with a predator bird display. The sanctuary takes in injured and recovering animals but all were very beautiful and flew obediently for the crowd, including right above our heads!
Next we went to the open feeding area for wallabies and kangaroos, after buying a couple of bags of feed so we could make the most of the hands-on experience! The enclosure was a large green area with plenty of shade and plant life, and there were in excess of fifty animals lazing around. Although it was only 11am it was already very hot and the animals were making the most of the visitor's enthusiasm to interact with them, mostly lying in one spot while simultaneously being fed and pooping - that's the life!
We dutifully fed a few that were brave enough to leave their shaded beds and as we fed them we stroked them, took photos of them and simply enjoyed being around them. All of them really didn't mind us being around them which meant we could relax and just enjoy it, although we were aware that the smaller ones looked strong and the bigger 'roos looked ripped!
After a while we left the feeding area to walk around the rest of the park and the other animals that live there. Rightly so the zoo is focused on Australian animals so it was great to see some of the (innumerable) varieties of dangerous snakes in a safe way, wombats and then a platypus swimming happily around it's enclosure as it tore apart its lunch of shrimp - they're very difficult to find creatures so it was fantastic to see one while it was so active.
The best was yet to come though. As you guessed by the name the Sanctuary houses koalas, and lots of them. Dozens, of all different ages and sizes, were viewable and even though they sleep for 22 hours a day we saw so many active. The main draw at the Sanctuary is the opportunity to cuddle a koala - yep, we did it!
After a short queue while our excitement built up we stood in position and a keeper handed Cordelia (sister of Hamlet, another resident there!) to Beth. She hung onto Beth happily and as I stood next to Beth she kept looking around at us, obviously not so keen on posing for the photo we had taken, although we got a great photo to remember such a special experience. You wouldn't expect them to be so soft and fluffy as they are, or as cuddly - Beth was ecstatic afterwards and would have happily done it again and again!
Finishing the Sanctuary on such a high note we went for our picnic just outside the park gates, adjacent to a beautiful river. We've had no difficulty in finding places to picnic here, as everywhere we go there are public toilets, water fountains and picnic spots which are all clean and well maintained. This is brilliant as we're taking picnics almost every day to help save money, and it means we can really justify having an ice cream every day too!
In the afternoon we visited Brisbane's Mount Coot-Tha Botanical Gardens, the larger of their two sites. The site didn't feel huge but was laid out very well with themed gardens and lawns, with our favourites being the Japanese Gardens that were built in the '80s by the Japanese government as a gift for the expo hosted there - it was like being transported to Japan for a walk about!
As we strolled around we stopped regularly as the humidity was higher here than it had been for the last couple of weeks in Australia. Everywhere we went there were lizards running about, with some being so brave as to run right up to us - a good day for meeting wildlife up close!
We enjoyed another relaxed evening before we got up early the next day ready to travel north to Noosa, a VERY SHORT 2 hour drive away - we can't forget how big Australia is!
PhilMeer informatie

cheryl binghamWhat wonderful animals and the koala picture is gorgeous. What a marvellous experience.
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- Dag 72
- maandag 23 januari 2017
- ☁️ 27 °C
- Hoogte: 16 ft
AustraliëLittle Cove26°23’13” S 153°5’33” E
Noosa

We left Brisbane and drove north to Noosa Heads, a popular spot for Australian tourists because of its chilled vibe and beautiful beach.
We drove straight to their main beach and got very lucky to grab a parking space very close. We walked straight onto the white sand that spread across in a big bay that held gorgeous calm turquoise waters. Very quickly we joined the other families in the water, it was so refreshing as it was incredibly hot. Shortly after we had our picnic lunch, an ice cream and a stroll round the surrounding area. Great way to spend a leisurely afternoon, and a great introduction to the area.
We went on to our airbnb hosts that lived only a 10 minutes drive away by the Noosa river and was a lovely area. They had a stunning home with their own pool and we had a warm welcome. After a few glasses of wine and enjoying getting to know our hosts, who were very friendly (and both volunteered for the information centre so also very knowledgeable!). For dinner we went down on the river itself and ended having a cheap but devious Thai meal right by the water.
The next day we got up early to try and beat the heat and went to Noosa National park, which is only down the road from the main beach area. We were lucky again and got a parking space by the entrance and began the coastal walk through the park. Immediately you saw the sparkling waters and a bright blue sky as your view. So beautiful! These waters were some of the nicest we'd ever seen, and looked very inviting. The walk itself was 5km each way so we took it slowly and enjoyed the surroundings, with the lovely sea views on your left and luscious trees and foliage on your right. There was also very tall gum (eucalyptus) trees where we even spotted a wild koala asleep up high in the branches. I never tire of seeing them.
As it was getting hotter the walk got tougher but we persevered and the views were breathtaking. We got to a great view at Alexander point then made our return, enjoying each step. We decided to continue walking beyond the car park and go down to main beach again as it was only another 15 minute walk or so. Again on arrival we plunged into that amazing sea. One thing that was so great about this beach was the calm waters as waves can get quite rough in Australia with strong rip currents, but none here. Furthermore minimal to no risks of sharks or jellyfish - my kind of beach! Again we had an ice cream from a different gelato shop and had a relax on the sand.
We got back home for around 4pm and had a swim at the pool there. The sea is great but it is so salty here it's nice to have freshwater swims or showers after. Our hosts had offered to host a bbq for us that evening starting from 5:30pm so we made sure we were ready. We provided the wine and they provided a great array of food, including lamb, beef, sausages and of course shrimp on that barby! For dessert they also Bbqed mango, which had been soaked in alcohol and sugar which they then blowtorched on top. Served with vanilla ice cream and it was a delicious end to the meal. Maybe we'll try and recreate it at home.
The next day we got up even earlier to head to a famous market called Enumudi market. It's every Wednesday and Saturday so we were in luck and our hosts insisted we go. It was a huge affair with so many creative stalls, so many things we could have brought if it was just a holiday and we could have got things home. Although we did get some creative ideas as some of things with some practise you could make yourself. There was an impressive food section of fresh food stalls and it was hard to choose, so we got some fancy salads ready for a picnic lunch later and indulged in something as a mid morning treat. We had a Gozleme which is Turkish bread with spinach and feta stuffed inside served hot. Highly recommend it! The market had a great atmosphere and it was fun to stroll around for a few hours.
We then went on to Noosa river and enjoyed a picnic lunch on the banks. It was so hot now and we felt quite tired so decided to go for a swim. In our walk through the national park there were so many hidden swimming spots that we didn't take advantage of so we decided to go back and cool off there. As it turns out we really needed to as we got so hot doing that scenic walk again! But it was great to see it again and we ended up finding a large rock pool which we saw people swimming in, so we ventured down too. Not long after they left, meaning we had it all to ourselves and it was glorious. Crystal clear water, and some shelter from waves, although they would pour into the pool which was cool (although I was sometimes a little edgy in case some tropical animal was brought in). But it was amazing to be somewhere so natural. On the way back we stopped at another beach cove for a sea dip, it really is the perfect way to cool down.
At this point we hurried back to the car as we'd lost track of time and wanted to catch an affordable sunset river cruise. We made it in time and sat back and enjoyed the ride. It was a beautiful river very unspoilt (although I did enjoy looking at the few millionaires houses on the banks). Talking of which we even passed an island on the one side which is actually one of Richard Bransons private islands, which you can rent out when he's not there. It can have 20 people and costs £15,000 a night... interested?
Anyway we glided on and enjoyed the scenery and the beginning of a stunning sunset. At one point the boat was stopped as it is a kite nesting area and the captain threw fish into the air and they'd swoop down to get it. We loved seeing them in action and they accuracy was so impressive, exciting seeing them up close too. There were some annoying sea birds that came along though nd even got cheeky taking some from the captains hand at one point.
Onwards we drifted until we hit a large lake and the sun set right in front of us. It was blindly beautiful, as it seems all sunsets are in Australia.
Once back at the marina Phil and ate a basic picnic dinner on the waters edge, our time closing in the very relaxing and beautiful area of Noosa.
BethMeer informatie
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- Dag 78
- zondag 29 januari 2017
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 26 ft
AustraliëClarkes Beach28°38’38” S 153°36’44” E
Byron Bay and around

For our first morning back in New South Wales state we'd been recommended a visit to Bangalow market where we could browse some fun stuff and pick up some bits for lunch, which sounded great and luckily it was being held on this Sunday...except it wasn't! We realised when we arrived at the empty field where it would have been held that January had five Sundays instead of four, so we'd missed the market by a whole week!
Thankfully our detour was still in the direction of our second stop for the day, Byron Bay. We drove straight to the lighthouse, following a very narrow road until we made it to a teeny car park perched on the cliff edge, but as we were right at the lighthouse we were happy with the one hour time limit imposed there.
A short walk from the car took us to the base of the lighthouse with incredible views back over the sandy bay and in the other direction the expansive ocean. There was a small museum at the base of the lighthouse which we enjoyed but sadly there were no tours for us to go up the tower. Instead we walked a little of the coastal path that leads back to Byron. We didn't get very far before we saw a pod of dolphins swimming 50m below the cliffs where we were standing, and despite the height we were at they were so clear against the turquoise blue coloured sea. We watched them for a while and also saw a ray of some kind, so it was quite the experience.
By the time we'd walked back to the lighthouse our hour was up which was fine although we realised we hadn't followed the track far enough along to the most easterly point of Australia - we knew we were coming back though so weren't too concerned...
After a short drive back to town we parked the car (and yes, we paid this time!) and went for a walk around the town. Overall it felt much like a lot of the towns that line Australia's coast, with snazzy boutiques and health-conscious cafes everywhere, so we made a beeline for the beach and this worked out well for us. We bought a sharing platter of fish and chips as takeaway and then sat watching people milling about on the beach and park area as we tucked in, which was brilliant!
Again we were limited by the parking limit for the car so had to leave Byron at that point. We travelled south back towards where we were staying in Ballina but stopped before we made it back in an area called Lennox Heads, home to a huge stretch of golden sandy beach and a large lake that backs onto the sand dunes. Of the two the lake is much more popular, for a few reasons.
All of the East coast has varying levels of dangerous aquatic life but Lennox Heads has a lot of jellyfish and sharks, so like almost everyone else we chose to relax at the lake instead. It's large enough that you couldn't swim from side to side easily and therefore it has plenty of space for the number of people there, including leafy shade at the edges. But what's so special about this lake is the water itself and is also the reason for Lake Ainsworth's nickname of Coca Cola Lake. A number of the trees around the water are tea tree and they leech oil into the water, staining it brown and giving it a slightly oily feel to it. Once you get used to not seeing anything more than 30cm away from your eyes and the very strange colour of the water it's really fun and felt great on our skin.
We swam a few times and lazed in the shade while drying off and even after a short walk on the beach we were drawn back to the lake. We popped back to our hotel to collect some food and then went back to the lake in time to watch the sunset as we ate our dinner, which was an awesome way to end a day exploring the area.
We made sure not to have a late night as we planned a very early start the next day, but even so the 4.30 alarm was not welcome. Why so early? We were going back to Cape Byron and the Lighthouse to see the sunrise. Being the most easterly point of Australia means it gets the first sun of the whole country and we couldn't miss the opportunity to experience that!
We'd been told that a good place to start the walk would be from 'The Pass' where there's a car park with lots of spaces and also it isn't too far from the viewpoint and lighthouse. We got there at about 5.30am and found that there was LOADS of parking - great - but the reason was because the parking restrictions started at 6, meaning we had to wait til then to buy a ticket before we could begin the walk along the track. This wouldn't have been a problem except that the track would take 30-40 minutes at a fair pace and the sun was due to rise at 6.15! Now I'm not one for dramatics but I may have suggested we give up at that point...thankfully Beth pushed me onwards and we ended up practically running up the hill tracks to get to the viewpoint and although it was quite cool at that time of day we were both reaallly hot and sweaty but we made it in time to welcome the day as the sky lit up beautifully! We spent an hour or so walking about and up to the lighthouse, all the while with the sun rising and changing the sky. We found it incredible that apart from a handful of other tourists the only other people around were joggers and a class of teenagers with their teacher, having a lesson in the shade of the lighthouse - what a classroom.
Once we'd cooled off, enjoyed the sunrise and taken copious amounts of photos we followed the path back to the car, passing a few surfers making the most of the early morning waves. We went the short ten minute drive to the centre of Byron for a good breakfast, both of us having really good eggs benedict, then feeling refuelled we took to the road once more.
Near to Byron Bay is a national park called Broken Head, with dense forest clinging to a coast of rocky cliffs and sandy bays, and we wanted to relax on a beach and swim in the sea and this is one of the safer places to do that. We drove down a rough dirt track deep into the park until a sign indicated we'd arrived at Whites Beach, and as we got our bag together to go down the 200ish steps to the beach a couple of other people left, meaning that when we got to the sand we were the only people there, with the hidden cove to ourselves! Even though Beth told me a story of a recent shark attack in the area I wasn't going to let that stop me from cooling off so while she stood ankle deep splashing the water over her shoulders I enjoyed diving under the waves. Of course my eyes were darting everywhere just in case...
A few other people had turned up at this point and joined us in the water, until the tide turned and started carrying hundreds of blue bottle jellyfish with each wave and onto the beach. They seem to appear at almost every beach and we've since found out they give a very nasty sting, so our caution was justified!
We had planned one more stop for the day so it was time for us to leave our (near enough) private beach and drive north to Cudgen Creek, near to the town of Kingscliff. This was another of Beth's finds and proved to be one of our favourites. Where a river meets the ocean a swimming creek has developed, with sandy beaches, shaded trees and crystal clear water all in aces. We went straight into the water when we arrived and werre surrounded by fish in there, thankfully none dangerous or scary...although Beth chose this as another time to tell me that dolphins had previously been spotted swimming up the river and past people. Awesome, right?! Wrong - they were being pursued by a shark! Our swimming was decidedly less eventful than that but it really was a beautiful place to relax for a couple of hours, and of course to eat our picnic.
The final leg of our journey was a further hour north to Kangaroo Point, Brisbane. We arrived just as rush hour kicked off and we left the car behind to go explore some of the CBD (Central Business District). We walked around Kangaroo Point park and down to the river where we hopped on a ferry to take us over the river to a marina type foodie area, where we found a restaurant slightly back from the water to eat at.
As we finished it was starting to go dark so we went back onto the ferry to cross the river back to where we had been before, and this was just as the sun began to set and the city began to light up for the night. Although the ferry crossing was probably only 10 minutes long it was really great to see the different perspective being on the water at that time, and as we were enjoying the balmy evening so much we walked along a boardwalk suspended over the river's edge for a half hour until we reached a sheer staircase up the cliff to the park we'd explored earlier in the afternoon.
By this time we were completely exhausted so collapsed into bed before leaving early the following morning to head to the airport ready to fly up to our next stop, Airlie Beach.Meer informatie

Heather CookeReally great, sounds busy but boy is it worth it, you are packing it in and it all sounds incredible. Pics fab again, look forward to next blog, thx. 👍 🐬 🌅 Loves xxx

Phil and BethVery busy but very amazing - the two go hand in hand it seems! Next two are due soon!xx

cheryl binghamSounds wonderful, especially the swimming in crystal clear waters. We have snow here today so guess where I'd rather be!!! Wonderful photos - really look forward to each posting. xxx