East to West

November 2016 - April 2017
  • Phil and Beth
Pengembaraan 156hari oleh Phil and Beth Baca lagi
  • Phil and Beth

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  • Fiordland

    15 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Our 230km journey took us from Wanaka to the town of Te Anau with only a small detour for lunch at a restaurant-with-a-view to celebrate Valentine's Day. It was a beautiful drive, surrounded by dramatic scenery of towering mountains, golden plains and rich green forests. A lot of this part of New Zealand is covered in lakes too, including the township which sits next to the country's second largest lake.

    It took us most of the day to make the journey and we were lucky with clear sky the whole way and as we arrived into Te Anau the huge lake was glistening in the sun. We had a relaxed evening with a walk by the lake and out to a very picturesque jetty where the local kayak club is based (lucky them!)

    The next morning we were on the road at 6am for another long drive ready for an 8.55am sailing with Mitre Peak Cruises out into Milford Sound, deep in Fiordland. As we drove the sun rose and started to display the extreme landscape we were passing through, culminating in a 1000m (ish) long tunnel that was hewn into a huge snow capped mountain. We learnt that the tunnel was made by hand during the Great Recession and employed WW1 veterans, connecting the Milford Sound area to the wider world where previously a multi day hike through the mountains was the only option.

    At the ferry terminal there were ten or so boats of differing sizes and despite the early hour there were already a few coach loads of tourists there. As we boarded our boat we soon found out that all but 8 other people were on other boats, giving ours the smallest passenger load of them all, with just 12 people including the skipper and deck hand. Our boat was therefore practically empty and despite being a small boat (maximum capacity is 70) we had so much space to move around in.

    The boat pulled away from the pier and immediately we were surrounded by huge peaks towering above us as we glided through the still water. At it's deepest the Sound is 300m with Mitre Peak the tallest outcrop standing at a similar height, although everything around us made it feel like we were much smaller.

    Over the previous few days before we went there had been heavy rain for most of the days but we were so lucky to have a sunny morning and the rain had created a huge number of waterfalls everywhere around us, etching their way down the mountainsides. One waterfall was much larger than the rest, and more powerful thanks to the precipitation. We were stood at the front outside area of the boat and as we neared the waterfall the skipper gave us a warning to come inside or take a shower as he nosed the front of the boat under the falling water. The power of the water was incredible and soaked the whole front of the boat - good thing we came inside!

    The tour continued out to where Milford Sound meets the Tasman ocean and the difference in the water was noticeable. The skipper had warned us there would be a swell of up to 3m and to hold on, which we dutifully did and we were so glad of it. As the boat rocked and crashed its way over waves we kept thinking about what he'd told us just before we reached the open water, that sometimes the swell reaches 7-8 metres and they still go out into it! The ocean there is so fierce as it's so far south and batters the coast hard, making it all the more impressive that at one time the area was settled by Maori people.

    As the boat cut it's way back into the sound it slowed at the far edge of where we'd first made our path out, near to a large rock that was tucked into a slight cove against the rock face and on it were a dozen New Zealand fur seals lounging around in the sun! The other passengers and us were captivated and the skipper recognised this by holding the boat there for a few minutes while we watched them, happily snapping away dozens of photos.

    We continued on and nosed under another waterfall, again diving inside quickly to avoid a soaking. We thought we were happy just being on the water but as the boat moored at an underwater observatory we spontaneously decided to leave the boat behind and to join a tour into the observatory.

    The whole structure floats and is only held in place in it's home of a bay by concrete anchors into the rock. Created in the '80s, every part of it had been floated there by boat, including the tunnel-like chamber that we descended to 10m below the surface of the water. Our guide told us that the sounds in New Zealand are unique in the world in that they have a layer of salt water that sits on top of the fresh water there. This unusual formation means the aquatic life there is confused by both the water and light there, and just 10m under the water things can be found that normally you'd have to go 60m under water to find!

    It's also one of the only places in the world where you can see black coral, which is not black but white - it's name is derived from a black substance it excretes to grow, which then turns a calcite white colour. It was truly beautiful and grew right in front of the viewing windows in the chamber we'd descended into. There were also two varieties of star fish, white sea urchins and too many types of fish to count, although we had a very informative guide with us pointing out some of the incredible wildlife we were witnessing.

    We had been given a brief introduction above the surface and after 25 minutes under water we climbed the spiral staircase back up and were given time to read about the incredible engineering involved in making the observatory possible and the history of the area. The location of the observatory is next to a beach where Maori settled in search of soft jade stones to make jewellery from. After them came the Europeans who wanted the pelts of the seals there but after they'd been hunted to near-extinction they too left, leaving the area until it was declared New Zealand's largest national park in 1952.

    We were collected from the observatory by another boat that took us the final 30 minutes back to the main ferry terminal, and as it did the sun turned to rain which really emphasised how lucky we had been on our cruise, especially given that the area is one of the wettest in the world! We were so thrilled to have seen the beauty of the area unhindered by the cloud or rain that was starting to appear and began our drive back incredibly happy with the experience we'd just had.

    We stopped a few times along the way at some beauty spots including a calm pool of crystal clear water that mirrored the distant mountains beautifully. There were also diving ducks there, who kept us watching as they dived metres under the water to eat before gliding back to the surface, all easily viewable by us thanks to the clear water.

    By the time we were back in Te Anau we were hungry and tired so sat by the lake for a little while before eating dinner and watching Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers, we are travelling the location of much of the scenery after all.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Queenstown

    17 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We left Te Anau early for the drive to Queenstown (just a 30 minute drive from Wanaka where we'd been a couple of days earlier). As we drove we found that we were stopping less than we had been on other long journeys, although the whole time we were amazed by the beautiful nature around us everywhere.

    Nearing Queenstown the road runs next to 78km-long Lake Wakatipu. Beth was driving and suddenly had a very serious case of itchy foot, so pulled into the first lay by that came up. Once her foot was well scratched we tried to leave the lay by but found that it was a gravel track that led down to a beautiful picnic and camping spot on the shore of the lake, with gentle shade from the trees and a stony beach. Completely by chance we stumbled onto our favourite lunch spot yet, and there were only a handful of other people there to share it with.

    After a while we lazily climbed back into the car to leave the quiet of the South lakeside for the buzz of Queenstown at the North-Eastern edge of the lake. The contrast between the two is extreme, with Queenstown feeling much larger than Christchurch.

    We left the car and our bags at our hostel and walked 10 minutes to the Skyline Gondola, which carried us 450m above the town. Each car was only suitable for a small family so we ended up with one to ourselves for our ascent and descent, with amazing views out over the town on both. At the top we took a chairlift another couple of hundred metres where we collected a helmet and prepared ourselves for some downhill action on their Luge run. If you're unfamiliar with luge, picture a toboggan with a t-shaped pole in the middle. You sit in it and use the pole to accelerate, brake and steer and it's as easy as that! You feel like you're sat on the floor and it's only the gradient that drives you forward, and it was an entirely new experience for us!

    There are two tracks you can race down, the easier and family-friendly blue and racecourse red. We both tried out the blue first and decided on a pace we were happy with (mine much faster than Beth's of course!). The track is suitably windy and goes through a tunnel under a footpath, underneath the chairlift and ends just below the gondola terminus, giving a good thrill as we zoomed down it.

    Beth's second run was again on the blue but I braved the red track, enjoying the extra speed and challenging bends it included. Perhaps surprisingly Beth joined me in going into the red run for our third go, and she enjoyed it! Here are videos of how we got on:
    Beth https://goo.gl/photos/PBp2526ERPLNkpdF9 and Phil https://goo.gl/photos/QP8mFQXYRbo2px6x5

    As it was a hot and sunny day we were ready to have a break and did so at the cafe with a mini-tower of ice cream each!

    As we ate our ice cream we people watched and saw a few conversations at a nearby hut, that was selling tandem paragliding. It had looked like fun as I'd seen a few people soaring above during the afternoon so, with a little encouragement from Beth, I went for it!

    After a 20 minute hike up to the large hill behind the luge and gondola area I was standing on the edge of a huge hill, being geared up in a very attractive flight suit harness by my instructor Dan. As he completed some checks on the equipment I took the chance to walk to the edge of the hill that we’d be launching off and saw that the fully grown fir trees below were tiny from that height...and I’d be running off the edge of it! A few further checks were carried out by Dan and as he did this there were other paragliders disappearing off the hill, and even at that point as I watched them I felt only pure excitement! Then it was our turn. Dan strapped his harness to mine and then tugged the parachute out behind us and into the air, at which point I could feel the pull of the wind in it, like a sail. He shouts at me to start running and then we launched into the air, gliding over the edge of the hill.

    Within seconds the only thing I could hear up there was the wind and our voices as we talked (screamed) and it was really incredible to feel so weightless so high in the air, as if floating. We circled over the luge area where Beth was waiting far below, then Dan passed me the controls and gave me a crash course on paragliding - pull left to go left and pull right to go right! It was great fun steering us over the town and out over the edge of the turquoise blue lake.

    A couple of minutes later we were flying back over the town and Dan offered two options for me: Continue the scenic flight or take the adrenaline-hungry way, so of course I chose the latter! What happened next I can’t honestly tell you as we turned and twisted every which way and this was also the first time I felt my stomach drop in the whole flight (to my surprise) - it was awesome! And then we’d lost our height and it was time to land in a school field near the gondola stop. Landing was very gentle, like being in a plane, except that the ground rose up from underneath me very suddenly. Approximately 8 minutes after I ran off the edge of the hill I was standing at the base of it, and I’d loved every second of it!

    The next morning we were up early to drive an hour around the edge of Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy (the lake is that big!) where we parted ways for the morning. I went kayaking on the lake while Beth went horseriding.

    My kayaking tour took me out onto the calm blue water and to Pigeon Island, about 300m from the shore. The water was cool and tasted great as it’s pure glacial water. It was also great when we landed on the island as a Weka bird walked over and inquisitively started looking around our feet and equipment! Sadly it was this inquisitivity that led to them all being eaten on the mainland and is the reason why Pigeon Island is one of the only places in NZ where they are still found. We began our hike across the island and ate some wild berries on the way, before we arrived at the far side of the island on another cute stony beach. We rested then hiked back to where our kayaks were waiting, then hopped back in and paddled ourselves around the water some more. It was a great fun experience and it was so nice to be so close to the nature I’d been seeing from a distance.

    Meanwhile Beth was horseriding, here’s her tale: Once I got to the riding centre we got a bus a 10 minute drive away to where the horses were based, situated in a picturesque valley. Very quickly I was on my horse, called Bob, who was very big, strong and had a distinct personality. It's the first time I've rode as an adult so I felt a little nervous but excited. Very quickly we were off down a grassy track with me and Bob being at the back, as that's his preferred position in line. Very quickly I was greeted with spectacular views, surrounded by both grassy mountains and snow capped mountains, as well as glacial creeks and the stunning Dart River.
    We crossed many streams and the water being glacial was beautiful and blue and it was really cool wading through the water. At one point it was quite deep and up to my ankles/Bob's belly. I think riding a horse is like riding a bike, you get back into it quickly when you know how so I felt comfortable quite quickly and enjoyed some opportunities to trot as well. We ended up doing a large loop with the scenery ever changing but constantly beautiful. One of the valleys is also where they filmed all of the Lord of the Rings scenes of Isengaard. I definitely need to go watch the movies again now! After 2 hours we arrived back, and I'll be honest, my legs were killing me, I'd forgotten how physical riding can be on the knees but it was worth it to see such stunning landscapes while on horseback. Definitely something I won't forget.

    We met back in Glenorchy at lunch time and drove back into Queenstown, intending to have another afternoon out however by the time we were back and had eaten a legendary Fergburger we were out of energy and decided instead to relax in the sun at our hostel and to do some odd jobs.

    The next morning we leisurely headed to nearby Arrowtown, an old gold mining community that has turned into a tourist spot and justly so. We walked by the river around the old Chinese Village, which pays homage to the huge numbers of Chinese Immigrants who toiled in the area looking for gold. We also walked along the river further and the area is truly beautifully. We had lunch at a cute cottage and then walked around the town, browsing the interesting shops there (and, of course, eating an ice cream). A short while later we went back to the cottage where we’d had lunch for our lesson in gold panning and although it was clearly fixed...WE FOUND GOLD! Equipped with a shovel and two pans we went back to the river and started our hunt for some natural New Zealand gold. We were there for two hours and the main reason was because it was quite fun, but eventually Beth found a piece (yes, really!) which she added to her other fragments that we are now carrying with us ready to be displayed proudly at home!

    We had thoroughly enjoyed our time in Arrowtown and headed back into Queenstown and as the sun set we soaked up the atmosphere at the beach, watching a street performer and eating a delicious ice cream (round two - this ice cream on a stick was dipped under liquid chocolate for us!) then went back to our hostel to pack our bags ready to leave early the following morning, happy with our adventures there.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Mount Cook

    19 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    After missing out on a helicopter ride and hike on a glacier twice, we still wanted to see if we could do it somewhere.
    We'd already heard about Mount Cook, and it is the largest mountain in the south island, plus next to it is the largest glacier in the southern hemisphere, Tamsin glacier. This was only an hour drive from our next destination (Lake Tekapo) so we mixed up our plans, made a few calls, and managed to get ourselves booked on a trip up there.

    We got up early and did the 3 hour drive from Queenstown, all the while excitement building and enjoying stunning scenery. As you approach Mount Cook it is an incredible site and also has Lake Pukkaki which is a a bright shimmering shade of blue I've never seen before. Quite a sight as you drive closer and closer. Once in Mount Cook village at the base of the mountain, we met our guide Ant and the rest of our group (8 of us in total). We got our gear and hopped in the van to drive 10 minutes down the road to the smallest 'airport' I've ever been too. We were due to go to a snow flat above the glacier and land there by ski plane and wear snow shoes. We squished into the plane and the propellers started to go - yes propellers. If you know me well you'll know I hate flying so can't say I was overly enjoying this bit. But the adrenaline and excitement was getting me through. However the pilot suddenly switched off the engine and turned to us saying he's just been told we can't fly as cloud had just swept in over where he was going to land, meaning he now won't be able to. So out we jumped and for a moment I couldn't believe our luck being so close and missing out a third time.

    Thankfully however Ant had a plan and off he went leaving us all sat in the airport to chat. Interestingly the rest of the group knew each other... they were all part of the crew filming a major Disney movie in nearby Wanaka. This was their one day off and this is how they were spending it! How random that we ended up with them. They were all friendly, some more chatty than others so we didn't get to know much about all of them. However there was Reese the assistant director (quite a big deal in the movie world we have since found out, having worked on all the Bourne movies as well as Jack Reacher and more). We also chatted a lot to three ladies from the costume department, including the really lovely Stacey who is the supervisor. She's worked on all he Pirates of the Carribean films and knows all the actors well. But her favourite person to dress is Meryl Streep, a very gracious and kind lady apparently.
    Anyway the movie they are working on stars Reese wetherspoon and Oprah, it's called a 'Wrinkle in time' and is based on a favourite children's novel. Look out for that in 2018!
    Fascinating and random meeting for us!

    Anyway Ant reappeared bearing crampons and a plan. He'd organised a helicopter and said we were going to land directly on top of the glacier instead. We were all weighed and the helicopter would have to go on two flights to get us all there. Being the smallest I had to sit right at the front shoved in between the pilot and the guide. Again, is this the best place for someone who is afraid of heights and flying? Tough luck! I had to get over that very quickly.

    Off we went, the helicopter started to lift instantly and we felt weightless. We flew across the valley gracefully hugging the mountain side to avoid sudden wind gusts. It took about 10 minutes flight time and we were over the glacier. Quickly we were ushered out and had to stay low while the helicopter took off to go get the others. Suddenly it was silent and we were greeted with awe inspiring sights all around us. Instantly you feel how solid and thick the ice beneath you is, and the deep blue colour inside. You also see snow covered mountains in all directions and the edges of the glacier coming down the rock. It also looked like there was lots of rock areas, but that is apparently just rock debre that has landed on top of more ice, so now we could really see what an epic size this glacier was. Immediately we got our crampons strapped on our feet so we were able to move without slipping, then took in the surroundings until the others arrived.
    Once together we started trekking across the extreme ridges and shapes of the icey landscape, stopping regularly to drink the pure glacier water.

    As we trudged along we came across the main destination, an entrance down into a deep ice cave! Our guide went ahead and put in a handline (using his ice axe) and we were instructed to come down one by one. Somehow I ended up going down first. It was roughly 10 metres below the surface down and at a steep 45 degree angle it was a little daunting. Especially as the cave was so perfectly formed and smooth that it was incredibly slippery, along with a small trickle of water making it even more so. Down I went stepping in some make shift footholds by Ants axe and also just by jabbing my crampons into the ice. At one point you have to turn round and go down backwards. At this stage Reese (assit director guy) is attempting to come down too. He swiftly slips knocking a big piece of ice down the cave tunnel and unleashing a big stream of water that hits me in the face and shoots down the inside sleeve of my coat, the cold alone nearly knocked me off my feet let alone the actual water slippery my feet away. I managed to regain my footing and didn't fall all the way down, as I would have done had it not been for my tight grip on the handline.
    Recovered, I continued down and landed in the middle of the expansion of an incredible cave.
    First thing I noticed was the unbelievable blue lighting causing by the thick blue ice. The walls were also so smooth it looked practically man made. There was a large hole in one part of the roof where the sun was beating down and melting that section. Plus a deeper section where the cave went down further, but got much darker. We didn't venture down there but made our way through a few levels of the cave and it opened out into a valley of ice and fallen rock.
    Then we clambered back up onto the glacier. Very carefully we continued to hike, watching every step as there were holes in the ice that you couldn't see the bottom of.... pretty terrifying thought slipping or falling into one of those.

    By now it had been several hours and it was time for the helicopter to come back and get us. Before we knew it we were back gliding through the air, level with the mountains and buzzing off the whole experience. Back on land it seemed surreal to believe we'd just experienced such a wonder of nature. Pretty harrowing thought to know that if global warming continues at its current rate that glacier won't exist in 35 years time...

    Back in the car we drove on to our rest stop for the night Lake Tekapo. On route we went back past the majestic Lake Pukkaki which now was an unbelievable shade of blue, brighter than the sky and just as still. As we arrived Lake Tekapo was similar but we felt not as stunning. We viewed it's sweet famous church on the waters edge (Church of the good shepherd) as the sun was setting. Finally we stopped at our cute airbnb place for the night - a converted shipping container - and crashed out asleep after such an epic and exciting day.

    Beth
    Baca lagi

  • Kaikoura

    21 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Kaikoura, located on the east coast is a small coastal town known for its aquatic life. We'd always planned to go there but things had become a bit trickier since they had a huge earthquake back in November 2016, reaching point 7 on the ricter scale, and in turn causing serious destruction to the epi-centre that was Kaikoura. The earthquake cut the town off from the rest of the country initially by damaging the major highway either side of the city (repairs still happening now and travelling north is still blocked off). They've now reopened the route from Christchurch which we'd take, however there is no access north from there still, unless you take the inland scenic route, a mere 7 hour drive.
    As you can imagine we wondered whether we should go because of all the extra travelling it would mean for us. But we went for it!

    After a windy and slow drive as the road is barely open we arrived to a ghost town. Many hotels, shops and buildings being held up with scaffold or condemned completely. It was also very quiet, although some tourists, not the bustle it would normally have in summer. We ended up down the chippy and wondered how this town was feeling after its recent disaster.

    The next morning we were booked in for a seal swim experience in the morning and a dolphin experience in the afternoon. Sadly even though the sun was shining on the morning, the seal swim was cancelled due to poor visability and water conditions. So instead we went on the hunt for seals on our own. They have a resident seal colony that live on the corner of Kaikoura penusiula which sticks out just round the corner from town. Remarkably the earthquake raised the sea bed by 4 metres (!) So now there is a huge rock formation that stretches out to sea for a long way. Originally it was just a small rocky area so you could see seas from the land/car park. Now you must clamber out further onto the rocks if you want to see them. It wasn't too long before we stumbled onto a big fat seal having a sleep on the rocks. He seemed completely unfazed by us as we got closer and closer, practically in touching distance! We went on further finding a curious but very shy baby seal who ultimately ran away, and then many more all lounging around in different ways. We felt adventurous so we scrambled out over some mostly submerged rocks to get even closer to the colony. We then saw a seal rolling around in the water and he swam right up to the edges of the rocks to look at me and continue playing. It was amazing. Another seal took quite an interest in us and even did this weird body dance when we walked by, very funny to watch. They are such cute and fun creatures, I can see why they are nicknamed puppies of the sea.
    As we headed back we realised the tide had ridden and suddenly we looked cut off from the rest of the rocks, whoops! Off came the shoes and socks and we waded about calf deep through the water and made it back. Need to remember for future though how fast water moves!

    We went a short drive from here to the Dolphin Encounter office and ate a picnic lunch by the sea while we waited to be called for our tour. We got all our snorkel gear and jumped on a bus to the harbour. The harbour was badly damaged and they have only recently got their experience trips back up and running, with the help of a tractor, that brings he boat in and out of the water while it's been repaired. Phil and I were on the smallest boat where there were 14 people all swimming, and the skipper and deckhand. We'd been warned that the sea conditions were 'moderate' so we prepared with sea sickness tablets just in case. There was a fairly large swell of waves (3-4 metre high) but we tried to ignore it as we hugged the coast in search of New Zealands Dusky Dolphins to swim with. We spotted a 'nursery' pod which had several babies but we weren't going to swim with them, as it's not appropriate so moved on but our anticipation and excitement grew.
    We went further out into open sea and got prepared perching on the edge of the boat ready to get in. It was crucial we got in quickly and tried to interact with the dolphins immediately to get some interaction back. They are wild and will only stay around if they are interested in us, funnily enough it's more like we entertain the dolphins rather than the other way round!
    Suddenly a pod appeared and we jumped in. The water was colder than expected and it's very full on to jump into those sea conditions, with dolphins underneath you. The dolphins swiftly swam on as we all got used to the water rather than focusing on them. No matter though as we got back in the boat and sailed on.

    Not long later we came across another pod and dived in determined and excited. Within seconds we were amongst them. I can't even describe the feeling. These majestic creatures were gracefully gliding through the waves and coming straight up to us. We'd been told to be as "dolphin like" as possible and to dive down, make eye contact and try to swim alongside them, circling with them if they start to circle you (which they loved and turned into a race!) And to also make as much noise as possible through your snorkel, sing, shout, whatever you can as they are stimulated by noise. The more we did this, the more likely the dolphins would stick around and play with us. We went for it, literally singing at the top of lungs and being bold. They loved it, and so did we. They'd come so close to you, I could just reach out and touch them (I never did though as you shouldn't).
    They'd keep coming back and forth, appearing next to you, below you, jumping beside you. It might have been scary if it wasn't so exhilarating and knowing they are friendly animals. They stayed for ages and we constantly engaged with them, I swear I've made some deep bonds with some of them! There aren't really many other things to say except it was magical. I didn't even think of anything else, just got lost in the moment.
    The boat sounded it's horn which meant we were to come back in, me and this Irish girl came back slowly as the dolphins didn't leave our side so it was hard for us to leave theirs. Once back on board we were on such a high but was greeted with a weird sight. Everyone else was out of the water already, either lying on the ground or having heads in buckets. Out of 14 people only Phil, the Irish girl and I were the only ones fine and not sea sick. Horrendous! I just felt so bad for them as they had just missed out on that amazing interaction.

    We sailed on, with the small pod following us and suddenly the amount grew... the skipper slowed the boat right down as we were in the middle of the entire pod and they were all swimming around us. The three of us who were feeling fine climbed onto the roof for a better view, and what a view it was. Three hundred plus dolphins in all directions. My first words I remember was 'oh my god there are so many'. Now Dusky dolphins are known to be the most gymnastic of all dolphins and love jumping out of the water. They absolutely lived up to their reputation. They started jumping, somersaulting and flipping in the air much to our awe. We started cheering and hollering which only encouraged them and soon they were all doing it, coming closer, jumping higher and doing more tricks. It was like our own personal show. One dolphin even did a loop round the boat of somersaults, no question that was for us. The atmosphere was electric and we never wanted to leave. It was like they put on this incredible finale of what they could do for us. That moment will stay with me forever, what amazing animals.

    Sadly we moved on, I think mainly for the poor people dying on board. The waves were even worse on the way back so we focused on chatting and animal spotting also seeing albatross and seals in the water. We were very lucky to not get ill I think.

    Phil and I were buzzing when back on land and both concluded it was one of the best experiences, not only on this trip but in our lives to date.

    That evening we went out and had some delicious fresh seafood, great way to end a wonderful day.

    The following morning we were due to seal swim again but sadly it was cancelled once more and we had to move on. Although disappointed, we'd had such an amazing day previously it still felt very worthwhile to visit Kaikoura and felt happy to drive on. Maybe one day we'll go back and see it recovered and back to former glory. We hope their earthquake recovery continues to go well.

    Beth
    Baca lagi

  • Wellington

    24 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Our journey to Wellington was certainly a long one. We left Kaikoura mid-morning day one and drove to a small town called Hanmer Springs where we had a relaxed afternoon with a nice lunch and mini golf in the sun (Beth won!). Early morning day two we began a mega journey that took us 7 hours, following the 'Inland Scenic Route' to Picton. Normally from Kaikoura a 2 hour drive north along Highway 1 would take you to the ferry but the earthquake in November 2016 (have a read about this in Beth's Kaikoura post) devastated the road and the repairs are still ongoing now, meaning a lengthy, and equally beautiful, inland detour is the only option. Our ferry left Picton on the north of the South Island at 7pm and the crossing was through calm and clear waters as the sun set into the ocean. As we arrived into Wellington it was well and truly dark and the city was lit up for the night, giving us our first taste of the North Island.

    For our first day in Wellington we woke early and the view from our hillside AirBnB was across the city to where the sun was rising in the East. We were out early to join the commuters journeying through the centre of the city to go to 'The Weta Cave'. A weta is a termite like creature found only in New Zealand and the 'Cave' we were visiting is far from it, as it's actually the workshop of one of the best special effects and props companies in the worldwide movie industry.

    Our tour began with strict instructions on no photo taking - they're working on real movies and projects where we were being shown! Also we were told to touch only what we were told we could, as they had only a few fakes and reproductions, meaning the rest were real and had featured in films. The next hour was filled with being shown around the techniques and skillsets used by their talented team to create incredible items, from a Master Swordsmith (one of only 7 in the last 200 years to be given that title, by HRH Queen Elizabeth II) to a lady whose specialism is to add hairs one-by-one to silicon masks, faces and anything else that requires the look. A lot of the tour focused on Lord of the Rings, as Weta provided everything from Sauron's suit of armour to chainmail, arrows and even prosthetics. Through an intro video we were shown we also found out that Peter Jackson is one of the co-founders of the workshop, so it's no wonder they had such a hand in creating so much of the films! More recently they've worked on The Avengers Assemble, Tin Tin, District 9 and Mad Max. It was a really intersting tour and we enjoyed having a good geek-out!

    Next we headed for the centre of the city, walking from where we parked along the waterfront area. We found a restaurant-laden pedestrianised street and relaxed with a leisurely lunch in the sun. Just next to where we were sat there was 'The Bucket Fountain' which cascades water down from the top through a series of tipping buckets, giving the occasional splash as it reaches the bottom - pretty good fun! It was only a short walk from there to Te Papa (The Museum of New Zealand), however first we had to stop for an ice cream on the old dock fronts! The museum itself is a large and rather ugly building but contains within it an incredible variety of displays.

    We headed first for one of their temporary exhibits about New Zealand's involvement at Gallipoli. We weren't very aware of the detail of the battles there, so for anyone else in a similar position here's a quick run down: In April 1915 during the First World War the British Empire and allies planned an invasion at Gallipoli, Turkey. Over 9 months hundreds of thousands of soldiers from both sides fought, were injured and died before the allied forces retreated. There were some particularly bloody battles and the exhbition we went to told the story of the campaign from the perspective of the accounts left by a handful of soldiers and a nurse who were from New Zealand. The design and creation of it all was a pairing between Te Papa and Weta Workshop, and centred around 6 incredibly large manakins who had been created by Weta. The manakins were between 2 and 8 metres in size and some depicted different elements of battle, including the grief and fear that accompanied the experience for so many men and women. There were also 3D videos and mini models of things like the beachfront trench layout and a hospital ship donated entirely by the public of New Zealand. We found the whole exhibit sad but it portrayed in a very interactive and different way the stories of those who took part in a terrible time in history. The final manakin was a lone soldier standing in a basin-like area. As you walked around him on a descending slope to his feet you could drop a message written onto a paper poppy at his feet - lest we forget.

    The museum also houses a great number of permanent exhibits, so we chose to go to a few of those with the highlights being a simulation of an earthquake that you experience from within a model house (with moving floor and falling objects!). The waters around New Zealand are also home to giant squid, with one that had been caught and preserved on display (it was about 18m at it's longest!). We found ourselves going through a few of the other exhibitis and agreed that we could have easily spent much longer there, and perhaps will another time - it may be the best museum we've visited and easily spent the rest of our day there.

    The following morning we were up early to go to Zealandia with our Airbnb host, Ken. He had worked there for a number of years and has since begun work elsewhere however remains a member and very enthusiastic advocate of the 225 hectare wildife sanctuary. We were joined by some of Ken's other guests and began our guided walk of the area. The reserve is set amongst beautiful forest and encompasses two old reservoirs that previously supplied Wellington with water, until it was realised that they're sat on a fault line in a very earthquake-prone area! We learnt that the reserve has specially designed fences and wildlife traps, all of which are in constant use protecting and helping to reintroduce the birds that live within. During our walk we saw, amongst others (and other wildlife) Tui, Kaka and Takahe. At night you can visit and find Kiwi! The reason the sanctuary is so important for the area is because the introduction of a number of animals by the early European settlers caused the near-extinction of a huge number of native animals and birds, which places like Zealandia are now trying to protect. It's also home to the pre-historic looking Tuatara lizard, which we spotted in an enclosure!

    We thoroughly enjoyed our walk with Ken and bid him farewell before a final walk through the area before we began the journey 370km north to our next stop, Taupo.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Great Lake Taupo

    26 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    For our first day in Taupo it was a beautiful day so we headed to one of New Zealand's most photographed spots, Huka Falls. The area is criss crossed with various walking tracks but with limited time we chose to head straight for the main attraction, the waterfalls themselves. They were only a short 15 minute drive from the centre of town and as we arrived at the car park full of coaches and buses we realised it was going to be busy, and it certainly was.

    A short stroll along a paved path took us to a concrete bridge over the canyon that funnels the water towards the falls at a rate of 220,000 litres per second. Let's just focus on that fact - enough water passes the falls to fill an Olympic swimming pool every ELEVEN SECONDS!! Even with the sound of other visitors the gushing water sounded powerful, and we walked around the falls to a few viewpoints to admire the sheer power of the water that carved it's way through the rockface. From the car park we also found a short walk down a dirt track that led to the other side of the river from where the 100s of tourists were, giving a great view of the incredibly blue coloured water without the crowds!

    We headed back into the town centre for a relaxed light lunch before we walked along the lake's edge to the marina where we boarded Barbary II, the sail boat that would be taking us around the lake for the afternoon. At 40 feet long there was plenty of space for the 16 or so passengers and two crew to move around and once the electric motor had taken us out of the marina the sails were released and the motor switched off, giving us the sound of only the splashing water and wind whipping in the canvas - very serene. Our destination was the far side of the lake and would take us approximately 40 minutes to reach and as we begun the journey the skipper quipped that it was typical of the wind to be against the direction of where we were sailing, however it meant we experienced the boat tacking it's way across the water. As the boat sailed we were free to move about the boat, including right to the pulpit out over the water - cue 'My Heart Will Go On' for our Titanic moment (no icebergs here, thankfully!)

    Our destination was a series of Maori rock carvings that are made into the rocks that rise from the water at the edge of the lake. When we arrived there the water was busy with a number of other boats, many of which were anchored and the passengers had emptied into the water to swim or float about, making it a hard task for the boat to be manouvered close enough for us to get a good look at the carvings, although the skipper managed well. We were disappointed to find that the carvings have very little history, having been carved by some trippy art students in the '70s as a tourist attraction but they were certainly impressive to look at from the water. Moreover, the semi-clad woman standing infront of some of the most impressive of the carvings for the whole 2 minutes the boat was kept infront of the carvings did ruin our view!

    The boat moved a few hundred metres away from the carvings before the skipper hooked a small ladder onto the side of the boat and told us we could swim off the boat. As soon as we were ready we were in - I climbed to the highest part of the bow before jumping in, while Beth chose the not-so-exhilirating climb down the ladder into the cool water. It was really refreshing and the water was so clear, it felt like we could see metres below where we were swimming. We'd have liked longer in the water (than the 5 minutes we had been given) however were called back to the boat by the skipper for the sail back to the marina.

    We hadn't been overwhelmed by Taupo, largely because of a rather tacky, rough feel to the place so we felt happy to be moving on the following day, with only a short journey and plenty of stops on the way so we set off early to make the most of another beautiful summer day.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Rotoura & Hobbiton

    26 Februari 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    An hour or so north from Taupo is the area of Rotoura, one of the most geothermal areas in the southern hemisphere.
    On our way there we stopped at the famous Wai-o-tapu, a large incredibly active geothermal reserve. You can see all the steam from several miles away. Upon entry you crossed what looked like a normal stream, until you looked closely and saw steam rising from the water. As we ventured in you were greeted with a warning sign explaining how you must stick strictly to the pathways due to all the activity in the ground. We started a walking loop and was met with huge craters, bubbling mud pools, and brightly covered mounds. All of which were very very hot (100 degree plus) and brightly coloured due to the range of minerals produced. Initially busy with tour groups coming to see a geyser go off, thankfully it quietened down so we could explore more leisurely, so we decided to do the extended track and see the whole area. This was definitely worth doing as we saw a variety of other interesting things such as a huge white terrace of silica and the Devils bath - a pool the colour of a green/yellow highlighter pen! This was aptly named as there were lots of dead birds around the edges and in the water. It turns out that they dive down to catch bugs off the water but the fumes of all the natural chemicals kills them! Pretty grim but nature is nature....
    The most impressive were the Champagne pools, named because of the bubble formation from the boiling water, it really does look like champagne bubbles popping up to the surface. It also has a very powerful red rim and is incredible steamy. Overall it is a very atmospheric place.

    Once we left here we drove on around 10 minutes and explored down an unpaved road to a known local spot called Kerosene creek. Down amongst some trees and undergrowth is a large stream with several waterfalls. It looks like any other until you dip your toes in and realise it is like a hot bath (water temp approx 40 degrees). We jumped in and it was a surreal experience, we enjoyed, but as it was a warm day it was a little too much and we didn't stay in long. Having sweat on your brow when in water is too weird! How awesome would this place be to escape to in winter though we thought!?

    On to Rotoura itself we had a cute hostel a short walk from the town centre which suited us perfectly. That evening we ended up in a curry house under a special meal deal, and surprisingly it was just as good if not better than some curries we have had at home. Quite a treat.

    The next day we went to Wahakakarewaka (The living Maori village). That is an active Maori village based on an active geothermal site. It has become quite a tourist attraction now that the entire village runs and seems to enjoy. We had a very funny and informative guide who took us round showing how they use the natural resources, such as cooking in wooden boxes over steaming craters in the ground. They cook everything from meat to fish this way and works like a slow cooker making everything tender, but is much quicker, and all natural from the earth. They also use giant deep boiling pools to which they throw in muslin bags of food on string into the water and can cook things in seconds. Their main pool they don't even know how deep it goes as you can't see the bottom, and scientists couldn't go any deeper then roughly 10 metres or so as the temperature reached 280 degree... remarkable. I was glad there was a barrier!
    After the tour we got to sample sweetcorn cooked in the pool and it was delicious! We also got to see a show, where they were in some traditional dress and performed old tribal songs and of course the Haka dance (the one with the chanting, bulging eyes and sticky out tongue). That dance is as intimating in person as you'd expect, very cool to see live. Back when it was used to scare the enemy at the beginning of battle I really think it would have worked well.
    We then proceeded to try a Hangi pie which is a pie case filled with meat and veg cooked in the steam boxes. Everything was tender and delicious, and I can confirm that although the air stinks of a sulphuric eggy smell the food doesn't have that!

    After an explore around the village on our own we ended reading up on the history of the area and found all the history really interesting, if not sometimes gory. For example did you know that Maori used to cook and eat people in hot pools back in the day? I am happy to say now the village people are very friendly and everyone is safe and welcome!

    From here we drove a short distance to the blue and green lakes. These two lakes are next to each other and are very beautiful. The green lake is very sacred to the Maori people so no one can go in or on it. This is nice so you can really see it's natural state. We did however decide to take a dip in the Blue lake as that is allowed. It was so beautiful, still and crystal clear. Even though not the warmest of waters it was so refreshing being somewhere so pure.

    Around mid afternoon we took some time to rest up back at the hostel. We were both very tired and travelling full time can run you down if you don't stop for a breather now and again we've learnt. Randomly at one point I realised we'd left our water bottles in reception so I dashed in, grabbed them and walked out, only stopping to hear a voice say 'I know you'. I turned round and there was a girl called Nina we'd previously met four weeks back in Cairns on our snorkel trip. What a small world! It does blow my mind these chance encounters and how small the world actually is.

    That evening we'd planned to go to a place called The Polynesian Spa and invited Nina along. After an ice cream stop we arrived. The spa had a variety of hot pools with different temperatures, sizes and chemical properties, all bordering a lake, making it a very attractive place. We arrived a little too late so only saw it in daylight for a short while, however it was very relaxing when dark and with low lighting. Because we were chatting with Nina and trying all the different pools we were there til 11pm and the last people there. Our skin felt amazing! Especially after the nicknamed 'ageless beauty' pool that left a silky smooth texture all over. I'll take more of that daily please!

    The next day we'd planned to go to the Waitomo glow worm caves via a nice walk with a famous blue spring and move on from Rotoura. We managed to make it to the blue spring before the car gave in. The car had been bad for a while making a whurring noise, and having lost all it's power. Finally I called a mechanic and he confirmed that it was only running on three cylinders when it should be six... for someone who knows nothing about cars even I can understand that's not good. We agreed to meet him at his garage after we'd walked to the spring. It was definitely worth going to. It is probably the most beautiful piece of water I've ever seen. Crystal clear yet very blue, full of green water plants flowing in the direction of the current. It's hard to do justice but I'm sure you'll get some indication from the picture. We would have liked longer there but knew we had to sort the car.
    After a lot of messing around, phone calls etc. . We went on to a our airbnb for the night and the rental company brought down a new car that evening and took away our previous one. Immediately although exactly the same car model, it was evident how broken the precious one was when you got behind the wheel of the new car!
    With all of this you may have realised we missed out on the caves. It wasn't a massive disappointment as we'd seen lots of glow worms back in Franz Josef so thankfully don't think we missed out on much.

    We went to bed relieved to have everything sorted and be very to get back on our schedule for the following morning.

    One hour away was our next destination and we arrived at 9am ready for our tour round Hobbiton! As big fans of the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit films we were excited to be on the real life permanent film set for the Shire. Set in a lage acre farm is where they adapted it into the Hobbits Shire village. The sun came out and the place is adorable, with 42 hobbit holes and amazing attention to detail such as mini clothes on washing lines and real vegetables in the patch, it felt magically real. A very picturesque place and instantly recognisable it felt like you'd stepped into their world. We enjoyed all of it and practically expected Bilbo to appear when we passed his front door. We ended the tour in The Green Dragon Inn with a beer and marvelled at the detail of the place. Whether you like the films or not, it was an attractive place to be, but all the more special for it's fantasy feel.

    Beth
    Baca lagi

  • The Coromandel Peninsula

    1 Mac 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After leaving Hobbiton in the late morning we drove for a few hours North towards the Coromandel Peninsula. We stopped for our picnic lunch with a view near to the town of Hikuai, looking down from the mountains to the Pacific Ocean.

    We couldn't stop for too long as we had a schedule to keep to, a rarity for us lately! The reason for this was because we were headed for one of New Zealand's most famous beaches, Cathedral Cove, and we needed to beat the tide. When we arrived in the quaint seaside town of Hahei we found the main car park to be tiny and therefore full, so instead we parked next to the beautiful beach but this meant we had doubled our walk to get to Cathedral Cove! Once we'd set off we realised the longer walk wouldn't be a problem really as the views we were being presented with at every turn along the coastal track were breathtaking, passing three other bays and a peaceful clifftop field dedicated to the memory of lost servicemen and women.

    Once we'd completed the hour-and-a-bit walk we descended a very steep staircase to the soft sand beach and we were greeted by two things: a throng of other visitors who covered every space the cove offered, and the incredible archway that gave the cove it's name. We'd timed our arrival well as it was low tide so we walked through the arch where we could see tide marks a few metres above us with the highest point of the sea-arch about 15m above us!

    The cove also has another small cave that tunnels about 10m into the cliff at beach level which we entered (at high tide it would disappear entirely!) and adjacent to this there is fresh water cascading down from the top of the cliff and it runs down a root system of one of the trees creating a very cool natural shower!

    After we'd enjoyed the sights of the beach we began the walk back along the coast to Hahei - this time it was harder going with more uphill, and in the afternoon heat we began to flag. Fortunately our next stop when we were back at the car was to drive 15 minutes to a beach where nature provides the savvy with a free spa... It's name is Hot Water Beach and that describes it perfectly!

    What you have to do is walk along the sand until you see water bubbling up through the sand - careful though, it'll be hot! This phenomenon occurs because deep below the surface is an aquifer that is so close to where the lava from an old volcano remains super hot, heating the water in the aquifer and it finds an outlet through the sand!

    We arrived and hired a spade from a cafe before crossing a lagoon to the main beach area. Although it wasn't quite the peak time to be visiting (again because of the tide) we could see a throng of people and dug-up sand. As we got closer we immediately saw dozens of people lying in shallow pools of hot water, having dug themselves spa pools right in the middle of the beach! You could divide the pools area roughly into three stretches running from sea to cliff face, with the middle stretch full of empty pools. We didn't understand why so many people would go to all the effort of digging out a few tonnes of heavy, wet sand only to then not relax in the water as a reward - we were happy to do so for them, however as soon as we stood in them we realised just how hot the water was, it practically scalded our feet!

    Presumably it was our comic hot-footed hopping in and out of a few pools that drew the generosity (or pity?) of a couple of guys who offered us their pool as they were leaving. It only took a little digging out to make it deep enough for us both to be able to lie just under the water and it was beautifully warm, just like a hot and sandy bath! As we began to relax into our pool we watched others make the same mistake as us with the super heated pools, and then to find an unused spot to settle in. There were probably nearing 100 pools in the area and all were steaming gently, even though the air felt perfectly fine to be in. It was a truly bizarre experience to be in hot water on a beach, but we really enjoyed our bath!

    I'd gotten quite hot while in the bath so decided to hop into the ocean to cool off, which proved to be very refreshing as the ocean obliged by pummelling me with a handful of waves. I'd read that the beach is amongst the four most deadly beaches to swim off in all of New Zealand, so didn't go much beyond 15m from the tide line when I spotted a big stingray drifting around in the wave a metre or so away from me! It was cool to see but I was out of the water as fast as I could be, much to Beth's entertainment!

    That evening we stopped en-route to our Airbnb at a vineyard known for it's kiwi cider and stone baked pizza. As we sat in their orchard chomping our yummy dinner we enjoyed the shade from the evening sun given to us by a kiwi tree, laden with hundreds of them. A great end to a great day.

    The following morning before we began our journey to Coromandel Town on the West Coast of the peninsula we made a quick detour to the beach that gave the village we had stayed in it's name, Cook's Beach. A stunning stretch of golden sand, running toward the mouth of a river nearby, it was certainly beautiful and also is the location of where Captain Cook observed the transit of mercury, a significant feat for the time.

    After a short walk on the beach we began our drive and as usual found ourselves stopping on the way to take photos, so when we arrived we had a leisurely lunch and look around the town before going down the road to Driving Creek Railway. I seriously doubt any of you will have heard of this train line as it's in the depths of a bush reserve, it's only 3km in length and it's destination is the top of a nearby hill. Doesn't sound too impressive really, but you'd be very wrong to think so. The whole track was laid by hand by a man named Barry Brickell and it took him over 30 years, including building bridges, stations and an incredible hill top tower, named the Eye-Full Tower (get it?)

    The reason the railway came to exist is because Barry was a keen potter and wanted an efficient way to bring clay from further up the hill that he could use in the pottery he established there, so he began recycling old two gauge track, sleepers and carts from the disused mines in the area and it grew and grew, having now carried more than one million passengers! We climbed aboard the tiny train along with another 20 people and the train pulled away, chugging its way slowly up the hillside. It is an incredible feat that Barry made the whole track including the two tunnels and a two story bridge that the train passed along, and it was made yet more impressive by the bush that he has begun to nurture on the land surrounding the track as he planted over 25,000 native trees there to replace the introduced species that he removed from the area! The bush didn't obscure the incredible views all the way out to the coast and the Hauraki Gulf, making for a very picturesque halfway point on our journey before we boarded the train again to descend following the same route in reverse. It had been a great afternoon and demonstrated the motivation of one man but also the great motivation and inspiration that has been given to many people who met and worked with him.

    We left Coromandel town and followed the coastal road to leave the Coromandel peninsula too. Our next stop was New Zealand's capital, Auckland.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Aroha Island

    4 Mac 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Driving From Auckland we went straight to our home for the night. The drive was uneventful until we arrived where we drove along a land bridge that cuts it's way through thick mangrove and onto Aroha Island, or Love Island.

    The whole island is a nature reserve with fantastic bird life and we were staying in Fantail Cottage and it didn't take long before we could see it's namesake in the surrounding bush. There was no noise other than the occasional car arriving and half a dozen birds singing to each other which was entirely different from our experience of Auckland just a few hours before. The cottage itself is stunning, set amongst quiet bush with half a dozen well kept garden areas to sit in and enjoy the tranquillity. Inside it is a mini-apartment and the quality and space it offered was a real treat for us.

    After relaxing for a while we ate dinner in the sunny garden, before following a dirt track to circumnavigate the island in an hour. We saw the beach, mangroves but best of all was the bush where I spotted a Morepork Owl. It was still light but wasn't phased by this despite being nocturnal and it came within metres of us, sitting on nearby branches to watch us as inquisitively as we were watching it (except that we couldn't twist our heads like it did!)

    This was a great experience and prepared us well for the main reason we'd gone to the island. At night, with the aide of a red-lit torch, it's possible to watch the wild kiwi bird that live on the island. We geared ourselves up and headed out and within half an hour we'd followed one's call to a section of the forest where one had been seen by another guest on the island. It was now pitch black and we could hear shuffling in the undergrowth that sounded like it was directly in front of us, so we followed the noise and tried to see the kiwi causing it using our red-light, but five minutes passed and the bird had disappeared. We weren't ready to give up just yet so continued our search and we had another close encounter, but still couldn't see the bird unfortunately. By this point we'd been walking the island looking for the kiwi for nearly three hours and they were likely settling for the night so we decided to do the same. We were disappointed to have not seen a kiwi at all in New Zealand but given the difficulty to find them it wasn't surprising.

    Waking up the next morning in our beautiful cottage to the sound of birdsong was a great start and after breakfast outside we walked to the beach again where the tide was still far out, but seeing it in the daylight again confirmed how beautiful the island is. We didn't feel ready to leave but did so to visit the Sunday Farmer's market in Keri Keri. We'd been led to believe it was sizeable but actually only had half a dozen stalls selling local produce so instead we chose to visit a few of the cottage industries that the area is home to.

    Woodworking was the main craft of the area but we spent most time at Makana, a chocolate factory and cafe. Beth didn't struggle to find things she liked here and after we'd both sampled the chocolate and numerous gelato on offer we made our choices and enjoyed! "Some of the best chocolate I've ever had!"

    Feeling the need to burn off our chocolate-fix we went to the nearby Haruru Falls for a walk along the riverside track there that led us to a great view up the river to the waterfalls. It was a sunny afternoon so it was perfect to be somewhere so picturesque.

    Once we'd gotten back to the car we drove the little distance further onto the seaside town of Paihia.

    Phil
    Baca lagi

  • Bay of Islands Part One

    5 Mac 2017, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Our final destination in New Zealand was Northland, home to some of the country's most sparsely populated land, a huge variety of landscapes and very varied weather!

    We arrived into the seaside town of Paihia in the early afternoon after a short 30 minute drive from Aroha Island. After checking into what turned out to be our best hostel of the whole trip (Saltwater Lodge, if you're curious) we walked to a bar round the corner on the seafront where they had great live music as we ate a delicious meal, before a swim in the very-salty ocean off of the beach. It made for a very relaxed afternoon and a good introduction to the town.

    At 10am on Monday morning we were aboard ZigZag, a 65ft double hulled catamaran that was gliding away from the marina area in Paihia to take us for our day trip into the Bay Of Islands. As we began sailing out of the harbour we stopped briefly at another seaside town named Russell to collect the remaining passengers then we were out into the ocean dotted with hundreds of islands, all of varying sizes. Very shortly after we left ZigZag was steered toward a group of other larger boats, which was weird considering how empty the area was. As we got closer though it became clear what the Skipper was doing - there was a group of bottle nosed dolphins swimming in the water and the boats offered dolphin watching experiences!

    When we were close to the dolphins a few appeared right next to the submerged part of the boat and continued to swim right below where we were sat over the water and they swam with the boat for about 10 minutes, jumping out and spraying us from their blowholes - it was incredible to see them so close! The Skipper later told me that the boat isn't licensed to follow the dolphins like the other boats do, which is why we hadn't been told that it might have happened, and the reason the dolphins followed for so long was because of the bulbous-shape of the front of the boat that sits just below the water level, it looks almost like a dolphin! Apparently the dolphins following ZigZag really annoys the other companies who offer tours to see them, but we were glad of it!

    An hour and a half or so after we left Paihia we arrived at our first island of the day, named Robertson Island. We were taken ashore on their dingy where we climbed a few hundred steps to a lookout atop the island's largest hill, which gave panoramic views of the whole area of Bays. It was on that spot that Captain Cook gave the area it's (rather creative...) name, the Bay of Islands. It was really beautiful up there. The island itself got it's name from a European family who owned the island at one stage, until they were murdered as revenge for slighting their killer, a Maori servant. For his crime, he became the first executed person in New Zealand...morbid!

    Anyway, we walked about the beach a little and then swam off the boat for about 10 minutes before everyone was called back to the boat to continue our journey on to the next stop of the day. The 90 minute cruise to the next stop was breathtaking with green islands dotted everywhere, some big and some small but all surrounded by clear, deep blue water. We relaxed on the deck and enjoyed a light snack, arriving at a second beautiful island where we would spend the afternoon.

    Our group of 30 were served a buffet lunch that included green lipped mussels in a spicy sauce, freshly baked focaccia bread, saucy chicken wings, salads...it was plentiful and delicious, giving us energy for the snorkelling we would be doing next. About 20 metres from the boat was a large area of reef and although there wasn't a great deal of sea life there it was enjoyable being in the water. We also swam over to the beach and found a few beautiful shells, mementos of the area. Sadly they fell from my pocket while swimming back to boat, so I swam from the boat again and collected some others! The beach and a few metres out was covered with so many nice ones. There were also A LOT of sea urchins, which we gave a wide berth until we got back onto the boat to find the deck hand had collected half a dozen of them and was proceeding to break them open and eat them! Well not quite them actually, it was the caviar-like eggs inside she was after. When offered to try it too we both said yes, although it isn't an experience I'd recommend. It's very salty, oily and slimy!

    By now it was getting late in the afternoon so the boat cruised back to Paihia while we enjoyed the surrounding beauty and chatted with some of the other guests. It was a brilliant day and had been sunny and the water calm all day, just perfect.

    Phil
    Baca lagi