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South America
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South America

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  • Het begin van de reis
    24 maart 2018
  • Pia WSouth AmericaReiziger

    Finally in Patagonia...

    26 maart 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After a long day spent mostly sleeping (!) in a hotel near Santiago Aiport, I’ve finally arrived in Punta Arenas - right down south of SA on the Chilean side. It’s windy, cold (6degrees) and the clouds are moody. Went to the Puntas Arenas Museum after a heavy breakfast of toast, scrambled egg and a hot chocolate. Tomorrow is going to be a day of driving from Punta Arenas to the Ecocamp in Torres del Paine. Can’t wait! Have been ‘en route’ for days now! 💺💤🚍Meer informatie

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    Ecocamp Patagonia

    28 maart 2018, Chili

    After a long day’s drive from Punta Arenas, through Puerto Natales, I’ve now arrived at the wifi-free ecocamp in the middle of Torres del Paine national park.

    Stayed in an ecodome with no electricity last night - ie. No heating and no lighting! Made good use of my headlamp! The wind was pretty strong, and at one point I thought the whole dome would come off! It was somewhat comforting hearing the rain and not getting wet.

    Now sitting in the communal ecodome with a nicely lit fire, listening to the rain pattering down outside and Dido’s ‘Thank You’ song playing in the background. It’s a perfect day so far 😊

    ... perhaps I won’t say the same if/when I get back from this 6km walk in the pouring rain!! Lucky I have my waterproof pants and jacket with me!    Meer informatie

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    Base of the Torres Trek

    29 maart 2018, Chili

    Made it! 24km of trekking up the mountain, through a forest, with huge gusts of winds, snow, slush, boulders, mud, you name it. Luckily we didn’t have any rain. Hands down the most difficult hike I have ever done... 🍂🏔

    We started from Ecocamp at 8am amd finished back at the domes at 5:30pm. Not bad timing considering! Thank god for the hiking sticks. The last 1km clambering up rocks was a killer. For me at least! We had a couple with us who were American and another Australian who was called Colin. Our guide was Vartan who set us on a good pace. He was great - nice and new a lot about the flora.

    When we finally made it to the top, the view was absolutely worth it. Those towers rise up another 2000m in front of us. It was windy up there but clear with quite a bit of snow.

    What a day. Will never forget it 😁🏔👊🏻    Meer informatie

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    Lago Grey Glacier Boatride

    30 maart 2018, Chili

    My last day at the ecocamp was spent with a 1.5hr bus ride to Lago Grey and then a 3 hour boatride to the glaciers. We went past los Cuernos (the horns), which are these magnificent, towering mountains with spiky black towers. They looked a bit like Mordor from LOTR.

    We had an extremely windy and wet half hour walk across a black pebbled beach to get to the boat. Thank goodness for the waterproof everythings! The Shanghainese guy who was with us had his trousers all soaked.

    Saw a couple of rainbows during the day! 🌈🌈
    Sat in front of a Swiss couple and was listening to their conversation with a Chilean older man. I understood quite a bit of it! Hopefully my Spanish is somewhat improving. I’ve learnt that ‘Sipo’ is a purely Chilean way of saying and emphasising ‘yes’ in Spanish. Almanece is sunrise in Spanish.

    Anyway, the glaciers were SO blue... it’s something to do with less oxygen being trapped in them, that makes them appear bluer.

    Overall, I loved the Ecocamp experience. Everynight we’d have dinner with the group who we’d spent the day with. People were very warm and the ecodomes were cosy.    Meer informatie

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    Perito Moreno

    1 april 2018, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    After a day of travel to the quaint down of El Calafate, I joined a tour to visit the glacier Perito Moreno. You can see the glacier from space! It’s part of the Southern Andes. Apparently a few weeks ago a large part of it broke off (which happens regularly every few months).

    It was a bit of a miserable day weatherwise, although no huge gusts of wild wind like in Torres Del Paine. We walked over the glacier for a while, looking at the crevaces and tasting some of the pure water! Not sure just how pure it was give how many people walk across it every day, but it was so blue! The cool thing was we were drinking water that was 400 yrs old in the making!

    Luckily this glacier is stable and not receding apparently. Let’s hope it stays that way.    Meer informatie

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    Mate. Tastes like Chinese medicine!

    First day in Buenos Aires

    3 april 2018, Argentinië ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Staying in the old square, Plaza Dorrego, in San Telmo area. First impressions of BA - European, almost Parisian. San Telmo has lots of delapidated buildings - but it’s not too shabby.

    Had blue sky today, with temperatures around 26 degrees. So, hot, compared to the four layers I was wearing in Patagonia. I miss Patagonia - the views and the lack of people!

    BA is bustling. Walked a while to el Teatro Colon and did a walking tour. It was built over 100 years ago, and they recently spent 100mill USD over 7yrs to refurbish it. Unfortunately the actual theatre was in darkness as the crew were in the middle of testing the lighting for a new show!    Meer informatie

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    A lovely couple days in BA

    5 april 2018, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Went to this old theatre that has turned into a bookstore and then onto lunch (steak of course) at Don Julio’s. Tango show at nice. It was amazing. Nice cosy small theatre called La Ventana.

    Last full day was spent at the MALBA (art museum) which was a bit of a waste of time... and then went to find these colourful signs called ‘filete porteño’.

    Just at the airport now about to go to Lima! Having our first meeting this evening at 6pm. Excited and nervous.    Meer informatie

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    Lima to Cusco

    7 april 2018, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Arrived in Lima yesterday afternoon, after a 5 hour flight from BA. The hotel was 3 star, and not too shabby. Spent a lazy afternoon trying to find an atm that would accept my unionpay card (!) and glt a local coffee and pastry for around 20 Peruvian Soles.

    Met up with the rest of the tour group at 6:30pm last night. We are 11 in total, with a guide called Enrique (por supuesto!) or ‘qique’. A lot of aussies on this trip and quite a few older couples. Luckily there are 4 who are around my age - one girl from Ireland, one from US/Brisbane, one from London and a guy from Melbourne. Let’s see how we all get along!

    Now waiting to fly Latam to Cusco.    Meer informatie

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    Cusco at 3400m

    8 april 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    It’s my second day in Cusco, and what a quaint colonial town it is. We are staying near Plaza del Armas, the main square. The hotel (El Puma) is okay... my room doesn’t have any windows. And it’s in the middle of the floor. Weird and I’m not bery fond of it! Anyway.

    I’ve been suffering a bit from altitude sickness - lethargic and headaches. Took it easy today and went with our guide Kike to see the San Pedro market that sells all sorts - an amazing array of flowers, colourful textiled and bags, to fruit, cheese, Maka (some herbal thing that the Chinese love apparently), quinoa and meats.

    Before that though, we went to see the Sunday raising of the flag procession. Had a marching band and the mayor of Cusco joined too. Was quite a spectacle.    Meer informatie

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    Kike, Fenella, Eshan, Tanvi, Ginny, Paul, PK, Astrid, Marie Alice

    Machu Picchu twice!

    10 april 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Stayed at Aguas Caliente - a town that’s really nothig to write home about - and managed to visit Machu Picchu twice. First time was in the afternoon and there was nothing else to do. So I decided to fork out an additional 24 soles and something like 80USD to go up to MP by bus. I went with Alistair, who’s part of the tour group. It was magical!

    We saw a double rainbow thanks to the rain! It rained most of the time we were there but so happy it did. Also, at around 4pm there were few people so we had the place almost to ourselves. Best decision ever 🌈🌈

    Next morning we went up again with the wider group. Blue skies and a different atmosphere. So many tourists! Great weather though. Our guide Marcelo brought us around and told us about the ruins. The Inca empire lasted around 100yrs before the Spanish invaded. Their irrigation system is impressive and still works very well. Around 65% of what you see at MP is the original Inka ruins. The rest has been restored.

    Ginny and Paul weren’t feeling too well the day before - had an awful hotel in aguas caliente - suffered from some form of stomache upset. So we took it easy in the afternoon. Got a train back to Ollantaytambo and sat next to PK. Then a 2 hour bus ride back to Cusco where I am now, at El Puma Hotel. Better room this time, although can hear traffic on the road.

    Tmrw got an early start again - on our way to Puno and Lake Titicaca.

    Oh! Ps Tried Alpaca steak. It was great! At a restaurant called Marcelo Batata in Cusco.    Meer informatie

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    Lake Titicaca

    14 april 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Stayed in Puno for the night - a town that’s nothijg to write home about! - and explored Lake Titicaca by boat for the whole day.

    We first went to Taquile Island where we went to a family’s house to learn about their culture and way of living. Apparently the men are in charge of knitting and weaving (as well as tending to the farm) and they need to make a few hats for themselves and their children. It’s a custom to give each other coca leaves as a greeting instead of shaking hands. Apparently you are only allowed to receive the leaves on your skirt or clothing and not your hands. Very interesting.

    We then took the boat to the Peninsula where we visited another community and had a nice lunch there, which was made by creating a pit in the floor and lighting a fire to heat the stones which cooked the potatoes, rainbow trout from Canada and chicken which seems to be a popular choice of meat.

    Lastly we went to a floating island called Uros. So cool. These islands last around 50 years before they need to build another one. They are anchored but can be moved whenever they want. The kids go to school and have to row for half an hour to get to Puno one way! PK was playing with his drone and the kids loved it. It was a good day ☀️    Meer informatie

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    ¡Adios Peru!

    15 april 2018, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    On the bus on the way to La Paz. Need to go to the Peruvian border at Desaguadero first.
    Final thoughts of Peru?
    - Sun is really strong here!
    - Love how all the women dress in traditional or authentic clothing - black skirts and a colourful cloth wrapped around their shoulders, carrying goods and sometimes children!
    - They love their pollo and papa fritas!
    - I love Alpaca meat (and makes me feel a bit guilty, but apparently they kill them at around 12 yrs of age for their meat)
    - So far the group has been gelling well (except for Astrid who is difficult....)
    - People here are kind
    - Glad Im able to practice my Spanish. Helped yesterday in particular when we were at Uros island and the lady was showing us the room where her family sleeps.
    - Hotels have been basic and hot water is a blessing!
    - Loved Machu Picchu in the afternoon when it was raining plus the rainbow and not many people!

    Adios Peru - Bolivia here I come!    Meer informatie

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    Hola Bolivia! La Paz and Sucre

    18 april 2018, Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After an eventful border crossing from Peru to Bolivia - where I was arguing in spanish with the immigration lady in Bolivia who said I had to have a visa because Im Chinese, and ended up having to pay 40usd to the Peruvian immigration officer to get a stamp in my British passport - we then took a bus from the border to La Paz. The bus couldn’t go through the detour because it was too heavy so we had to get on and off and on the bus twice!

    Eventually got to La Paz and had a full day the next day to explore. A few of us went on the cable cars and then to the mini Valley of the Moon which was a bit of a waste of time! The views from the cable car were lovely. And at one point near the top of one of the peaks was a car that had fallen off the edge and had been wedged between one of the rocks. We also learnt that it’s a common practice for people to make human sacrifices - they would invite drunk people off the street to their houses and then push them in a ditch and cover them in cement, burying them alive (!?!). They do this to bring good luck to them... (PK and Alistair went to do the death road mountain biking).

    Now in Sucre after a short flight. And enjoying the view at La Recoleta on the hill overlooking the capital of Bolivia. Really nice sunny weather. Alison, Alistair, Paul, Kike and myself walked up here. We’ll go down to the liberty museum later and then onto another ‘f-ing market’ haha.    Meer informatie

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    New prescription sunnies!

    Our luck with buses....

    19 april 2018, Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Today we departed the lovely sunny Sucre to go to Potosí. It was a lovely drive around the arid mountains until we crashed into a car! The damage to the car was pretty bad. We had to wait an hour before we got another bus to pick us up to get to our final destination. What was meant to be a 3 hr drive turned out to be about 5! Nevermind!Meer informatie

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    Potosí - former silver mining centre

    20 april 2018, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Stopped here for one night (the night of the bus crashing into the car) and visited the mint museum the next morning. Quite a small town and there wasn’t much else there. Went with Alison and PK to have coffee. After a quick trip to the supermarket - alistair and marie alice went to one of the working mines which was quite confronting apparently - we took a bus to Uyuni. Next stop salt flats!Meer informatie

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    Salar de Uyuni

    21 april 2018, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Spent almost the whole day going from
    Potosi to the salt flats. There was just masses and masses of salt surrounded by a few mountains. Oh but first we visited the train ‘cemetery’ which was okay... apparently they were built by the British and has been left to rust. Luckily I had my prescription sunglasses! At night we stayed in the middle of nowhere at a g adventures supported place. Everyone had to bunk up by twos, but luckily I had one to myself! Tried a really nice drink - boiled quinoa with some sugar. Tastes so good. Was Astrid’s birthday and we celebrated by giving her a cake we bought in Potosi (at the no.1 restaurant / pizza place that Anthony Bourdain has been to!).Meer informatie

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    More 4wd-ing!

    23 april 2018, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Took us 3 days to cross Bolivia in 4wds. I shared with PK, Ginny and Paul for 2 days. The third day we had Astrid with us. PK and her had a blow up in the morning of the third day, as he was angry she was rude to Fenella and Eshan the night before - smth about her not wanting to share with them because she snores. She is rascist though....Meer informatie

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    Less than 24hrs to explore Santiago!

    26 april 2018, Chili ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Really wanted to explore Valpairiso, but didn’t have enough time to as we landed a day late unfortunately. PK, Marie Alice and I did a free walking tour by a guy called Leon. He was good. First time trying a free walking tour. It went on for three hours, starting at Plaza de Armas and endeing in an area where there was lots of restaurants. We tried the recommended Como Agua para chocolate (like the name of the book). Meal was fancier than we had had andit was quite tasty. The guide had told us don’t go to any clubs called ‘Harvard’ or ‘Cambridge’ as people bring guns to them (!?). Club 56 was safe. Not sure if PK went there or not in the end. I needed to get up the next morning for my 6:20am Transvip transfer to the airport.

    It was sad to say goodbye to the group. Tanvi and Ginny and Paul were carrying on with their next G adventured group that night. PK was doing Rio to BA and all of us were on to do BA to Rio. Never said bye to Fenella and Eshan nor Astrid. The last time I saw them was at the reception of Hotel Riviera, where the receptionist spoke zero English. The groip have been relying on me a lot for translating menus and communicating with hotel staff. Hope they’ll manage on their own when I’m not around. They should download google translate, maybe?!    Meer informatie

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    Last meal together as a group. Alison and Alistair had left earlier that afternoon.

    San Pedro de Atacama

    27 april 2018, Chili ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Lots of sand here! Spent 3 nights in this small, rustic, basic town after crossing the Chilean/Bolivian border. It was nice to have some time to relax and not feel obliged to do anything.
    Most of us went to the Valle de la Luna to look at more rocks! We also went to the Mars (Marte) valley too.
    We had to stay an extra night as Latam were on strike, so a few domestic flogjts had been cancelled. I didn’t feel so well the last day. Didn’t take the charcoal tablets but instead had a really sore throat. I still do and it’s a few days later and I’m in BA again!    Meer informatie

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    When a cat fell on Jon!

    28 april 2018, Argentinië ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Now in BA, staying at an actual proper hotel for once in 3 weeks (Two Hotel). In between tours, I spent the day with Alistair and Alison. We walked 10km - from the hotel to the Recoleta and back. This is the 2nd time now. Equally as interesting. Had a coffee next to the Recoleta but didn’t venture into the bookstore like last time.

    Met the new Intrepid group tonight - most of them. Some had already been on a 21 day tour together - Sarah, Mike, Steve, Yiping and another girl who we haven’t met yet. There are two asian australians Jon and Derwin as well. Loads of aussies... again! We’ll see how the group dynamics unfold... hopefully will be fun.

    Oh yeah and tonight, a cat fell a couple stories onto Jon, the south korean! So random and I thought it was a body as there was a thud on the ground! Hilarious. Cat was okay thankfully!    Meer informatie

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    Drizzly BA

    29 april 2018, Argentinië ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Spent the day in the rain doing a walking tour of BA. We covered the Pink House (where we went to the famous Eva Peron balcony and also where the Argentinian soccer team held up the world cup when they won). We also went to La Boca - full of colour but a bit touristy. Next stop Ituzaingó!Meer informatie

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