World trip - Anna & Bertram

October 2017 - April 2018
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A 202-day adventure by placeswetravelled Read more
  • placeswetravelled

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  • Iran Iran
  • Laos Laos
  • Indonesia Indonesia
  • Malaysia Malaysia
  • Cambodia Cambodia
  • Singapore Singapore
  • Argentina Argentina
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  • Experiencing the Uyuni desert

    December 20, 2017 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After the initial skepticism regarding the weather, it turned out the be a really good day. As all 3-day tours we first left for the old train cemetery from the 19th century when the trains were used to transport minerals out of the desert.

    This was also the first stop where we also got to know our group better - 2 cars with 8 people - and our very engaging and knowledgeable guide, Gonzalo Gonzalez, started the explanations.

    We then continued for the salt production town of Kolchani where we visited a model factory for salt and learned a lot about the hardships for local people.

    Then, we really drove into the desert, biked a bit, had lunch and took the famous perspective-betraying pictures. Our selection is in the photos attachments ;-)

    Afterwards, we visited two oasis, one with a lot of cacti and the other with a lot of caves. Both really nice and also great to be able to walk around for some time in our own.

    Then, it was still not over, we drove on for a great spot to see the sunset and ... at the direction of our guide Gonzalo took some more perspective and fireball photos :-)

    The day ended in a salt hotel with a nice dinner with the whole group and stories by Gonzalo about vehicles lost in the desert whom he was sent to find.
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  • Next: Edoardo Avaroa National Reserve

    December 21, 2017 in Bolivia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We had to get up somewhat early but the night in the salt hotel was very comfortable.

    We first had to drive for a couple of hours but were rewarded in the way with beautiful landscapes, vicuñas, quinua plantations. The first stop were at two lagoons where different types of flamingos were feeding. Bertram could practice ornithology skills again :-) Also, we had lunch and walked around the nice scenery and played “boccia”

    We continued further and visited moon-like landscapes with nice rock formations - bouldering did not really work out ;-)

    Second last stop were geysers at 5,000 masl with a “steam engine” billowing smoke out of a vast hole.

    Finally, we arrived at the basic camp - and enjoyed the hot springs in the evening with star gazing :-)
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  • Relaxing in San Pedro de Atacama

    December 24, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Having reached Chile via our Bolivian desert trip, we decided to avoid the overly expensive hostels and hotels and... take out the tent again :-) we found an inexpensive camp ground with good facilities (despite somewhat lazy and unfriendly owners).

    We spent our two days exploring the village, visiting the impressive meteorite museum (and touching moon rocks :-)))), strolling around, jogging in the desert (Anna only ;-))

    One evening we had really nice burgers and the other was spent preparing something on our own. Really nice guacamole and fruit for desert!

    Now, we are off to Santiago where we will spent two sponsored nights - thanks to Rüdiger and Gabi! Muchas gracias!
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  • Christmas in Santiago :-)

    December 25, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We arrived in Santiago in the afternoon of the 24th to spend the Christmas holidays in this beautiful city. 🌴🎄🌵

    The flight and arrival in Santiago was easy enough. After checking in to the hotel we went for a little walk and then started to make dinner plans. We were not really in the mood for the hotel Christmas dinner, so we decided to go for sushi for our Christmas meal. 🍣🍱

    That wasn’t so easy, though, because most places closed early on Christmas Eve. Consequently, we spent an hour finding a good sushi place that was open and would still deliver to our hotel. Luckily we found one and had a great sushi Christmas feast :-)

    On the 25th, we moved hotel (from one gifted night from Bertram’s brother Rudi to another one at a different hotel from Anna’s mother Gabi). Before doing so, however, we made good use of the rooftop pool! 🏊‍♀️ 😎

    Having moved, we took a stroll through the Barrio Bellas Artes and took in some of the flair of Santiago, including watching the casual Salsa dancers on the Plaza de Armas.

    Santiago is really quite different to the cities in Latin America we visited so far. It is by far the most “western” and developed city, that feels like a fusion of San Francisco and New York (it even has a district called “Sanhatten” - a mix of Santiago and Manhattan, where you can find the tallest skyscrapers of Latin America and the second largest skyscraper of the Southern Hemisphere).
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  • Another relaxing day in Santiago

    December 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    We enjoyed a great breakfast in our boutique hotel today (which kept us going for the whole day) :-)

    The plan for today was first to go and fix Bertram’s MacBook. We undertook the journey by bus, even though the concierge at our hotel said it was “very dangerous” to take the bus. Well, other than the fact that the drivers drive those busses as if they were racecars, it felt perfectly safe travelling around the center of Santiago.
    Having arrived at the repair shops, the assessment from the experts was that the laptop had a broken logic board, which will cost about $900 to fix. Luckily it is still in warranty in Germany, so we’ll try and bring it back to Munich before end of April (when the warranty runs out). Still, very annoying to have to carry around a not functioning Mac, plus of course the inconvenience of not being able to watch anything on a screen bigger than our iPhones... Oh well, we’ll survive :-)

    After that, we went to two of Santiago’s most famous art museums: the National Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Contemporary Art. The building that houses them both is stunning and the art on display was nice. But sadly there were no English explanations or audio guides, so we left with nice impressions but without really understanding what’s going on with all that contemporary art. The highlight was certainly the nice on-site cafe :-)

    We then wandered through the Belles Artes district. Now that all shops are open again, it was much, much livelier than yesterday. We enjoyed the many squares and parks, some ice cream, walked around the government buildings with lots of Chilean flags on them (and even found the most ugly shopping center 😂).

    We also tried our best to find a dinner place that served vegan food, but in the end none of the shops wanted our money (i.e. they were closed) so we had to find an alternative instead (see foto).

    Tomorrow, we’re visiting the museum of Memory and Human Rights. We’re both excited to learn a bit more about the Chilean past there...
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  • Goodbye Santiago, hello Patagonia

    December 29, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We spent our last 1.5 days in Santiago (at least for now before returning in January) with the following activities:
    - visiting museums, especially the human rights museum covering the Pinochet dictatorship,
    - trying to finally fix the seemingly microscopic but still effective hole in the sleeping mat, and
    - getting cash for the Patagonian adventure - finally, we did find an ATM that did not charge a fee, thanks Scotiabank! ;-)

    Indeed, the latter will be an adventure just from a planning perspective as there seem to be stricter rules on how to access the national parks - and prior reservation for all intended camp sites as well as unidirectional circuits are high on the agendas... to be seen how keen we are on that...

    We have now arrived in Punta Arenas by plane this evening. It’s a nice little harbour town, reminiscent of Scandinavian towns on the coast with the little colourful wooden houses. One of those is our host Elena’s house where we rent a room, with a funny cactus tree in the garden (Bertram dared to go near despite wearing the sensitive down jacket :-O)

    Dinner was nice as well and we look forward to spending the day tomorrow to advance finalizing our plans for the coming 2 weeks. We are both looking forward to it and already on the first evening are super happy to have sunlight until 22:00 at night :-)))))
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  • The "pain" of Torres del Paine

    December 29, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    We had a mixed day at Punta Arenas today.

    First, it was a really windy, wintery day today with wind speeds of up to 80kph. Plus horizontal rain 🌧 Better get used to it is what the locals say ;-)

    Second, we went to the tourist info to check out the opportunities for trekking in Torres del Paine National Park and visiting the penguin islands. Both were somehow a disappointment. We learned (as a confirmation to previous fears generated in Santiago) that, yes, indeed, the National Park would be super crowded, had almost no capacity left, and, we needed to consult directly with the 3 different camp operators to secure spaces. When trying to find some spaces, we stopped after 15 min in frustration: obviously, the booking system was neither intelligent nor user-friendly - we had to check every single date (instead of a month-view or similar) and then again, some camps had capacity but subsequent camps for subsequent dates not - no alignment of camp capacity :-) Well, great. This all let to the decision to skip the “O” Circuit in Torres del Paine and do more fun and “auf eigene Faust“ stuff more up north.

    The penguins tours were as well “all fully booked“ for the half-day morning tours - we are now going for a full-day tour to see the king penguin instead of the Magellan penguin. Minor details ;-)

    However, we really enjoyed our time in town, walking around (17 kms in total!), playing with wrecked cars, finding a good supermarket to stock up before the trekking (and adding to Anna’s vegan foodstuffs already procured :-)), drinking tea at a tea house and coffee at a coffeehouse, really nice Italian food in the evening. And to top it off: We got really going with our newest game of dice (called “400”) which we learned to play in Ayampe, Ecuador, from two Swiss girls :-) simple but engaging and the score today says: Anna 12, Bertram 10 🎲🎲🎲
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  • Meeting the namesakes... King Penguins!

    December 30, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    We were up early for a full-day tour to Tierra del Fuego to visit the Penguins :-) (Bertram is back to birding ;-))

    It was a nice excursion, though a lot of sitting in the car. Apart from the “penguin stop”, we also saw old steam boats and learned from our guide Diego about the indigenous people in the area and the foundation of towns in this inhospitable land.

    We are both looking forward to the National Parks as of tomorrow. We are now quite certain to go on the Huemul Circuit in El Chaltén, where we will stop by Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy - and depending on conditions may also stand on one of the minor peaks :-)
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  • Getting away from the crowds

    December 31, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We spent today travelling a lot. We left behind the crowds of hikers who want to visit Torres del Paine National Park and instead moved north-east (towards Argentina) to our next destinations: the Perito Moreno Glacier and the National Park around El Chalten. There, we finally plan to venture out with the tent and spend some days in the wilderness, hiking, stargazing and hopefully also some climbing around Cerro Torre.

    While not much happened besides spending 8 hours on the bus today, we are looking forward to spending the evening and New Year in El Calafate. Plus we enjoyed the views from our bus across the countryside. It’s a vast land...
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  • New Year's climb up Mount Moyano (1509m)

    January 1, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    After sitting on the bus all day yesterday, we were both reared to get up and going and finally do some hiking again.

    Our “target” today was Mount Moyano. There weren’t too many good options within walking distance from El Calafate, so we chose the highest mountain we could do in 1 day.

    Mount Moyano was a 9hours, 25km hike with about 1500 meters uphill. We enjoyed the walk and the ability to just go out and away from any crowds. It was very much “auf eigene Faust” again :-)

    Sadly, the panorama wasn’t the best (too many clouds) but we did see parts of tomorrow’s glacier (and the clouds kept away the wind alright). In addition to the great hike, we saw plenty of rabbits, birds and eagles, as well a a curious group of guanacos - also passed by an abandoned ski lift :-)
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