World trip - Anna & Bertram

Oktober 2017 - April 2018
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  • First walk around Tehran

    23 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We had a nice first day in Tehran. After enjoying breakfast, we headed out by foot to take in some impressions of the city.

    Our first target were two museums around the government, museum and university district. We first stopped at the massive entrance gate to these quarters. Due to the fact that the gate is dedicated to an army commander, painted machine guns features heavily on the decoration of the gate, which was a bit out of place for us...
    Anyway, we then went to the Islamic Museum, which was very interesting. It features the artistic history of Iran since after the Muslim conquest of Persia (Iran) in 633-654 AD. We saw decorated paintings, scripture, glassware and pottery as well as carpets and clothing from all the ages of the Iranian Muslim past.

    We then went to the special exhibition, which featured loaned exhibits from the Louvre and also an interesting photo exhibition from an artist who took pictures of people looking at art in the Louvre. It was fun to see :-)
    Finally, because it was right around the corner, we went to the National Museum of Iran which features pre-Islamic (i.e. pre-633 AD) artefacts. This did not grab our attention that much, maybe because we were tired but maybe also because looking at arrow-heads and flint-stones isn’t really that exciting (they kind of look the same all over the world to us...).

    We then wandered on through some bazars and sat down for coffee and tea. The bazaars were not really all that busy today due to it being Friday (the Muslim equivalent to “our” Sunday). Most shops were closed, but it was still nice to walk along the paths and see the buildings :-)

    In the evening we went to a great place in the north of central Tehran. The Tabi’at bridge is a three-storey foot bridge, designed to allow pedestrians to cross a major city highway. But it really is an outdoor-park for many Tehranis. It has food-stalls on one floor and a viewing area and promenade on the top level. We gad a great view over Tehran as the sun was setting. There were loads of people, some of whom chatted us up (wanting to know where we are from, how long we would visit Tehran and so on) and took pictures with us :-)
    After that it was dinner in a very nice traditional restaurant and then back home with the metro :-)

    PS: While walking through Tehran today and also during the conversations with the locals we both noticed how the preconceptions we had about Iran are mostly wrong or perhaps exaggerated. This is most noticeable in the female dress-code. While we read that it’s not all too strict here (you can show some hair), we noticed that most women actually have their hair about 2/3 uncovered. Many young Iranians also briefly remove their headscarfs before they take pictures of themselves and then put it back on.

    We also had a longer conversation with the owner of our hotel (Fatima) who told us how she is regularly surprised that Westerners believe couples would have to be married to be allowed to sleep in the same room together. As she sees it, that’s just not the case and she doesn’t really care if people are married or not. We, too, thought that this was the case and apparently we were wrong. In the end, it seems (unsurprisingly) that Iranians are much like other people: they want to get on with their lives and not let politics or religion interfere too much with it. Let’s see how our journey will continue :-)
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  • Outfits for the mosque :-)The park at the cinema museumCinema museumSweets at the bazaarNew outfit for Anna! :-)

    Cinema, mosque and bazaar in Tehran

    24 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    The plan for today was quite straightforward: mosque, cinema museum and laundry. It turned out to be more than that :-)

    We started day two in Tehran with a visit to the northernmost prt of town (even closer to Mount Tochal). The fact that it’s up on the hillside already makes it a more upmarket part of Tehran. Many embassies are also located here.

    We decided to make our first visit to a mosque 🕌 While we stood outside, looking quite uncertain whether our dress code was good enough a and where to enter and all that, we were approached by a friendly gentleman who saw we were lost and explained to us how to proceed (where to get a loaner-chador for Anna, where to place our shoes, where the entrance is for males/females, etc.). He explained that he ran a carpet shop in the nearby bazaar and that he has many Austrian and German friends (and buyers) due to the fact that their embassies are close by. We were impressed that he knew the former (deceased) Austrian President and head of the chamber of commerce. Well, he invited us to come by which we said we would after our visit to the cinema museum...

    Iran (and Tehran in particular) was an early leader in cinematography and there were hundreds of cinemas in Tehran before the Islamic revolution. (Now, there are still many cinemas, but the selection of films is much more limited, reducing the number of cinemas as a result).

    After the museum, we went back to the bazaar, looking for our new friend. We asked someone for directions. It turned out, that someone was his son, and he took us to the carpet shop. :-) We then spent two hours learning all about his story as a carpet seller (he’s been doing it for 30 years) and how he came to have so many connections to Germany. Mahmud, the father, showed us pictures of himself with the head of the Austrian chamber of commerce, taken when they visited Iran some 15 years ago. We learnt a lot about carpet manufacturing and how he buys his carpets. (In case you’re wondering: yes, we did buy some quite cool carpets in the end :-)).

    It was 5pm when we returned to the hostel. After laundry, we went out to a great restaurant/Cafe which was recommended to us. Great tasting, open-air dinner for two in a picturesque city garden for about 7 EUR - we loved it :-) Interesting side note: the waitress was much more comfortable speaking French with us than English. A nice reminder of where we started or trip 6 months ago :-) 🇫🇷
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  • Visiting the bazaar with Fatima
    On the bus - luxury edition for 2.70 EUROur traditional hostel

    Discovering Kashan: mosque, bazaar

    25 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    For Anna it was the second morning with yoga in the hostel corridor (after the curtain on the first floor it‘s okay not to wear the veil and behave like being “at home“).

    We then gathered yesterday’s laundry from the roof top and packed our backpacks to get ready for Kashan. Before, we visited the former US embassy which, unfortunately, was closed. So we only looked at the anti-US/Israel propaganda.

    Afterwards we made our way to the southern bus terminal and had no trouble to find a bus to Kashan. In the bus, we met an Iranian who offered to drive us to our hotel. So nice! The hotel is a traditional house with mud walls, very authentic and nice. Also, it is pleasantly cool which helps in Kashan’s desert climate.

    We went out in the late afternoon to visit the Agha Bozork Mosque 🕌. The site was beautiful and we were lucky to start a conversation with Fatima, a 21-year old student from Kashan. She showed us around the mosque (and was not discouraged by a somewhat grumpy and impolite Mullah who corrected her on some rather minor detail). We then walked with her to the bazaar and invited her to drink tea with us in a very nice former hammam-turned-tea house. The owner let us in for free as wanted to “honor the Iranian-German friendship”. 😄

    The tea tasted excellent and was accompanied by a set of cookies, dates, candy sugar and cinnamon. We additionally ordered roasted eggplant spread and the next time we looked at our watch it was already 19:30! Time had flown by so quickly! 🙃 Before saying goodbye to Fatima, we still sneaked up on the roof of the bazaar which was really cool. It is also built with mud and has domes sticking out with small holes in the middle to let some air but no heat into the bazaar alley below...

    As we were not really hungry anyways, we went home, picking up some oranges and apples at a food stall as a dinner substitute 🍊 🍎
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  • Persian gardens and traditional houses

    26 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Our second day in Kashan was fantastic, too! We met two Spanish guys we got to know in the hostel in Teheran and went to the beautiful Fin gardens at the outskirts of Kashan. They are a typical example of Persian gardens with fountains and springs, trees and pavilion. While it was nice, it did not strike us as overly impressive. What was really nice, though, was the tea house in the gardens and the rose water/saffron ice cream :-)

    The next stop (after a short rest in the hotel) was much more impressive: the ancient hammam Sultan Amir Ahmad and the traditional house of Abbasi. The hammam is, unfortunately, not in use any longer - as is true for nearly all hammams in Iran - but it’s still a great sight. It features beautiful tiles and painted ceilings. Also, a visit to the roof have us a better understanding of how the vaults are constructed and how the light is let in through small glass inlays in the cupulas.

    The traditional Abbasian house was also mangnificent: >5,000 square meters :-) it took the owner - a rich glass merchant - 20 years to complete. We admired especially the well functioning ventilation system with the lowest levels being really cool and pleasant to stay in.

    Dinner was another highlight: we went to another traditional house turned hotel and restaurant. After watching the sun set from the courtyard, we went into the cellar for a nice dinner.

    Tomorrow we are looking forward to going to Esfahan - one of the top tourist attractions in Iran and certainly also buzzing with Iranian tourists during the ongoing No Ruz celebrations.
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  • Natanz
    The young waiter who was so happy, he invited us."Transfer" from intercity bus to local transport :-)Our new Iranian friends Ali and family.Isfahan main squareMosque on main square in IsfahanBiggest teapot ever :-)

    New Iranian friends en route to Isfahan

    27 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We left Kashan today to travel further south towards Isfahan - probably Iran’s number 1 tourist destination.

    En route to Isfahan we decided to stop at Natanz. The guidebook mentioned it and we thought it’d be fun to stop in a little village (12k inhabitants) that probably not too many tourists visit.

    Getting there was already a bit exciting: the big bus we were on simply dropped us on the side of the motorway. Luckily, there was a private driver who would take us into town for little money.

    We then went to the main square in Natanz and immediately became the main village attraction for all the locals. Many people approached us and wanted to talk to us. We feel humbled that the Iranians take such interest in us! 🙏 We then went to have tea in the local tea house (we were invited by the waiter despite offering to pay 5 times). At the teahouse we met Ali and his family (Mohaddeseh, Lena and Leila). After chatting a bit, they invited us to their house. We spent the afternoon sipping tea, enjoying sweets and chatting about life in Iran and our experiences as visitors. Ali’s family actually lives in Tehran so we agreed to meet up again towards the end of our visit. After a heartfelt goodbye we continued our journey south towards Isfahan. (Ali negotiated the price for us - we ended up paying 1/3 of what the guidebook estimated :-)).

    We were quite exhausted when we finally arrived in Isfahan. We still ventured out to see the main square and mosques and - wow! What a sight! It’s truly amazing!
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  • Beautiful Isfahan

    29 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We strolled around Isfahan today. We started off at the main Nagsh-e Jahan Square. It’s huge, about 500 meters in length. Enough place for all sorts of fountains, gardens, and a polo court where there actually was a game on! Most Iranian tourists sit on the grass and picnic there. For us sitting and people-watching is not always so easy: within 2 minutes there is usually a small crowd of Iranians around us wanting to chat, take pictures and extend invitations to their hometowns in the Iranian hinterland.
    We thus moved on into the Sheikh Lotfollah mosque. It’s not really being used today anymore - and serves more as a monument than as a place of worship. Still it was impressive to see.

    In true German fashion, we then went on a self-guided walking tour from the main square through the bazaar and to the Jameh Mosque (main mosque) of Isfahan. This was truly impressive! Like so many places in Iran, this is also a UNESCO world heritage site. Different than most other parts of Isfahan, there were very few people inside the mosque and we really enjoyed the tranquility.

    Pretty tired, we made our way back, got ourselves some Turkish honey (“Gaz”) and then relaxed in a coffee shop near the main square. Nice coffee shops are few and far between. The culture here is more to sit indoors in traditional tea houses, probably due to the heat from the sun. But we found this coffee shop that had outdoor seating in a nice backyard and were quite happy with our find :-) (That’s not to say that the teahouses aren’t nice. But sometimes the craving for a cappuccino gets too strong :-))

    For dinner, we joined a couple of German and Catalonian tourists for a fancy meal in the Armenian quarter and then some tea in the courtyard of the Abbasi luxury hotel. The courtyard is vast - a very nice place to hang out :-)
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  • Ready to leave Isfahan

    29 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Today was our last day in Isfahan. We spent the morning doing Yoga (Anna) and then heading to the main mosque in Naghshe Jahan square (the third and last mosque in Isfahan for us, in case you weren’t counting). Despite having some construction going on, the mosque’s inner courtyard impressed us. Again, we enjoyed the tranquility, particularly when compared with the hustle and bustle outside. Tourists pay 2-4x of what locals pay, so we made sure we’d get our money’s worth, visiting all parts of the mosque. We also came across an exhibition area, where information was presented on the 1953 coup all the way to the Islamic Revolution, the Iran-Iraq war and the wars in Syria and Jemen. Sadly, the information was very one-side (you can guess which one) and left us not better informed but somewhat saddened to realise that this is the only information that is given to Iranians. (Access to international news sites is limited.)

    Outside the mosque we were immediately approached by hawkers, following the typical Isfahan-tourist-trap-spiel: “What’s your country? - Ah, Germany! - Come visit my shop, I want to show you my culture. - You don’t have to buy anything, only have some tea. - If you do want to buy, we take MasterCard, Visa and Amex.”
    Being approached in this way quickly exhausted and annoyed us. When we told the guys that we will likely not visit and that they should stop pressuring us, they still only relented after stuffing a business card in our hands. It’s a shame - many Iranians are truly interested in foreigners and it is nice to be “ambassadors” for your country when visiting other places. But being annoyed like this kind of just made us want to put our heads down and get out. So we did - and headed to our now favourite coffee shop.

    Two hours later we met with Mohsen, an Iranian acquaintance from Natanz. He was very lovely and made us a gift as well as chatting with us about all sorts of things (and practicing his English on the way).

    In the evening we had dinner with our new Catalonian friends and then went for a longer walk around town, visiting the old stone bridges that go across the river in Isfahan. The water in the river is long gone due to drought, but on the plus side we witnesses an outdoor performance from local musicians playing from the bridge to a large crowd standing in the old riverbed. :-)
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  • Transfer to Yazd via desert town Na'in

    30 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Today was a rather uneventful day. We started off with our two Catalan friends and took the bus to Na’in, a supposedly nice and interesting desert town with sights like an old mosque, castle ruins, an old bazaar. It was really windy and we all got teary eyes from the sand in the air - welcome to the desert :-)

    While the mosque was an interesting sight, the other 5+ sights in town were less impressive and a lack of other tourists (Iranian and other) seemed to confirm the low touristic merits ;-) The four of us had tea and a snack in a rudimentary cafe that featured interesting decoration material: sheep skins that looked like balloons....

    In order to get to Yazd, we then went to the big roundabout at the edge of town and waited for a bus that we could stop. We got lucky after 20 minutes /-) and the waiting time was made more pleasant by two young Iranian ladies who were promoting travel safety and first aid in the service of the Red Crescent 🌙 (Red Cross in muslim countries). We got candy and chairs to sit on in the shade.

    Arriving in Yazd, the city immediately struck us as a great catch: much calmer and with fewer people than Esfahan. We also saw many cute little cafes and restaurants that looked very inviting from the first sight - something we missed a bit in Esfahan. Together with the Catalans, we met the German girls for dinner in one of the roof tops restaurants with views on the mosques around the town, it was great!
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  • The Zoroastrian fire temple

    Walking around in Yazd's heat

    31 Mac 2018, Iran ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The German-Austrian-Catalan tourist group got going again :-) With the 6 of us, you have to know that it makes it hard to cross any kind of public space without having one of us being stopped and asked for a picture. But we got to see quite a bit:

    - Zoroastrian temple with an eternal flame 🔥 burning since ~470 AD - we only got 5 of us on the picture and the second Anna is missing

    - Masjed-e Jame (Main Mosque) - the girls having to take a separate entrance and borrowing chadors. 👻 While Iranian religious teaching emphasizes that the chador is a protection for women “like the oyster protects the pearl”, we actually felt like rather sweaty women. A nice surprise was the presence of a calligraphy artist and both Annas got their name written in Persian calligraphic script

    - the shrine of a religious scholar (which was undergoing construction - thus the „holy repair” street sign). It also had a variety of praying beads on a rake, it looked very nice

    - coffee stop at a nice restaurant court: great coffee ☕️ and pomegranate juice 🥤 also a fantastic escape from the searing sun

    - walking the old streets of Yazd: almost everything is made of reddish-brown brick and wind towers (called badgirs) help to ventilate rooms and courtyard by channeling in air from outside through intricate systems

    - traditional house: only Bertram and David went there while the rest had already left: it was not really impressive and the collection of western women pictures on the walls looked rather creepy

    We are now back in the hotel to escape the afternoon heat - it really is the desert here in Yazd and rain falls as rarely as 3 times a YEAR!

    In the evening we will go out together to another traditional Iranian restaurant with roof top seating.

    Happy Easter 🐣 to all of you back home!
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  • Water museum and Iranian sport sessions

    1 April 2018, Iran ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We started our last day in Yazd at a relaxed pace. We saw most of the major sights yesterday and planned to use today to read and soak in some of Yazd’s atmosphere from one of the many rooftop cafés.
    We first set out to Yazd’s water museum. It chronicles the work of the local people digging underground waterways to provide water to the city. The museum was housed in an old family building and we enjoyed it a lot :-)
    Continuing with the water theme, the next stop was the former water reservoir of Yazd. From the outside it is barely noticeable, but from the inside it is very much like a huge egg placed underground. Pretty impressive! Nowadays, the site is used for practitioners of an Iranian sport where heavy wooden clubs are swung around. We actually came back in the evening to watch a “performance” of these sportspeople. The place was packed, there was singing and live music and about 10 men practices their sport in the middle. Quite a peculiar way of evening entertainment :-)

    Finally, after visiting one last mosque/gallery in Yazd we played some billiards at or hotel. Anna: 2, Bertram: 1 (though Bertram pocketed the black ball twice...) 🎱
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