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Camino de Santiago
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Camino de Santiago

A 37-day adventure by Quisels on the Camino Read more
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    April 26, 2017
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    Stones from home

    April 26, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    One of the pilgrim traditions along the Camino is to throw a stone, brought from the place of origin of the pilgrim, onto the pile of stones at the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) at the top of Mounte Irago. Pilgrims assign different meanings to the stones they place. Tom and I visited his childhood home in Delaware today to pick up stones. His stone is pale and oblong, mine is more round and coral in color. Delaware isn't exactly my childhood home in northern Virginia but, relatively speaking, it's pretty close.

    Oh, and there are our matching fit bits. :P    Read more

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    Newark airport ✈️

    April 26, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Dinner at the Belgian Beer Cafe before we board our red eye to London. We'll arrive tomorrow around 10AM local time for a 3 hour lay over. The second leg of our flight puts us in Paris at about 3:40pm tomorrow.Read more

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    Heathrow layover

    April 27, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We had a very jet lagged breakfast at Pret a Manger in the airport. I watched two movies (Passenger and Bob the Cat) while Tom slept during the flight. This was intentional as by skipping sleep for one night, and keeping myself awake until 8pm today, I hope to adjust myself to the + 9 hour time change. 💤🛏Read more

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    Charles De Gaulle - Paris

    April 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After ~20 hours of travel, we landed just outside of Paris, pioneer of the most popular places to fly in to begin the Camino if you are traveling from over seas. One particularly persistent taxi driver followed us on foot then in his taxi as we made our way to the 350 bus stop. Finally on the bus, we hit another snag when the kind driver was unable to produce change for our 50 euro bill and drove us to the stop by our hotel for free. If I weren't so jet lagged, I'd be proud of us for our spend thriftyness.Read more

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    Premiere Classe Roissy

    April 27, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Now that I'm learning to speak Spanish, when I speak French I realize that I actually have a fairly good grasp of French. Tom and I spent some time speaking mostly just French to each other as I splinted my feet in the hotel. Later, while I read, he ubered 5 minutes to the little town of Roissy to pick up groceries for dinner and to see the cathedral there.Read more

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    Bayonne

    April 28, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This is the last stop on the TGV, from here we'll take a bus to SJPP. This is our first stop in Basque country and we're looking up pronunciations for simple phrases. Kaixo (hello) is "kay-show".

    We visited the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne where we were lucky enough to join a tour (in French, bien sur) and learn a bit about the Plantagenet dynasty's local impact.Read more

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    St Jean Pied de Port

    April 28, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We've arrived to the first stop, our launching point to begin a thousand year old pilgrimage route. Our first stop was to the pilgrims office where we picked up our pilgrim passport, Compostela, and shells, the symbol of pilgrims on this route, which we tied on to our bags to give our narwhales company. We weighed our bags as well, without water Tom's was 18lbs and mine was 15lbs, still quite a bit more than my goal of 10% of my body weight.

    All of the hostels booked up and we felt lucky that we had reserved two beds in the Auberge du Pèlerin. I got the bottom bunk...Unfortunately, there was a snoring pilgrim across from me. 💤    Read more

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    The Napoleon Route

    April 29, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Our first night on the Camino was a relative success. We stayed at the Auberge du Pèlerin in the heart of St Jean Pied de Port.According to my fit bit, I slept from 10pm to 3am (my longest night time sleep yet) and Tom and I fit surprisingly well on a single sized mattress! Multiple people's alarms went off at 6am this morning in our fully booked 8 bed room (including Tom's) just as I was dozing off again.

    We had a yummy breakfast of hot chocolate (a breakfast staple in Europe, it seems) orange juice and bread (alas, no veggies or protein). Then I joined Tom for the first mile on the Napoleon route. I was diagnosed with a mild case of plantar fasciitis from over training the day before we left Delaware so Tom and I thought it best for me to opt out of what many pilgrims consider the most arduous trek of the entire journey, which also happens to be the first day. The Napoleon route gains about 4,500ft elevation over 15.3 miles. I'll be taking a bus to Roncesvalles which leaves from SJPP at 10AM. Hopefully my early arrival at Roncesvalles will give me an edge in securing beds for us tonight...I checked booking last night and there was literally nothing available for advanced booking. Fingers crossed we don't find ourselves on the floor of the church.    Read more

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    1

    Rufugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles

    April 29, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We're in Spain! Recieved our second Compostela stamp at the Rufugio de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles. It is 12 euro / night plus 10 euro for dinner (@ 7pm) and 5 euro for breakfast. It has 183 beds, Tom and I were assigned 114 & 116, both top bunks. The bunks don't have a safety railing so Tom offered to sneak into my bed (which is directly across from his) and sleep on the outside to make sure I don't roll off and fall 6ft down to the floor in my sleep. It's offers like this which remind me that I picked the perfect life partner. 💓

    Tom arrived around 12:30pm and both of us were quite hungry. Unfortunately, there are no stores here that sell food. There are 3 restaurants, none open before 2pm, all of them expensive. Have I mentioned how cold it is yet? It is very, very cold. It was 39 degrees this morning when we set off and it has warmed up to the high temperature today, 54 degrees.

    We couldn't check in to our Refugio until 2pm today (apparently, all the businesses here are owned by some sort of creature who ceases to exist until 2pm) so Tom and I paid 4 euro each to visit a museum, entirely so that we could have some relief from the frigid temps and frightfully cold winds. You can imagine our dismay when it dawned on us that the museum was mostly outdoors. There was one room, but it held the sarcophagus of some holy person or other. So that was what we were working with today, huddle next to the dead guy and random "relics" (ie: bone shavings, finger nails, etc) in a creepy cloister or freeze outside.

    This journey feels a bit like a summer camp I signed up to do. Our Refugio booked up so there were about 180 Peregrinos sleeping in bunks in one big castel like building. They fed us in two shifts, we all got the same options, pasta or spinach soup and fish or chicken. I opted for spinach and pasta (although they were both technically first dishes). Along the Camino I see the same faces from the Refugio the night before. It feels organized, though it isn't! :)

    Jet lag is still present (and awful)...goal is to stay awake until 8pm today. And success! I slept from about 9pm to about 3:30am.    Read more

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    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    April 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After a jet lagged 3:30AM wake up, we decided to skip breakfast at the municipal (which wouldn't be served until 7am) and get on the Camino. We were the only ones on the Camino at a starless, pitch black 5am and we launched in to a thick forest. The looming trees felt like they were closing in around us and I kept trying to remember what I had read about this section of the Camino. I was reminded a ways in when we came upon a sign which revealed something which got our blood pumping. The forest we were in was, as the board read, a "place of witch craft" and, in the 16th century, 9 women were put to death by the Inquisition, oh, just about where we were standing. Sweet baby Jesus. While my hair stood on end, Tom's response, of course, was that he liked the mystical feeling it provoked. Regardless, we made really good time through that forest. I know I breathed a little sigh of relief when the sun started to peek out about 2 hours later.

    We, erroneously, believed that we would be able to find a place serving breakfast at the next town over, Burguete, just 3.2 km on. Unfortunately, when we arrived the place felt like a ghost town, absolutely no sign of life, so we set off for the next town, Espinal, just another 3.6 km, and, again, nothing was open though at least this time the sun was coming up and I could snap a few photos of the pretty architecture.

    We were overjoyed to find a bar open in the tiny Basque village of Gerendiain, with a population of 25. It was our last hope and turned out to be just what we needed. It was my first experience with the traditional Spanish potato, egg and onion tapas and, dear lord, it was maybe the best thing I've ever tasted. Pilgrims poured in the front door and we sat and chatted with a man from New Zealand who now lived in SF and had spent the night in the same Refugio as us the night before. Summer camp vibe! 😉✨    Read more

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    Zubiri

    April 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We're staying in a fully booked 4 bunk room at the Suseia, which means "and further upward" and needs a bit of historical context to make sense. In medieval times, when people crossed paths on the Camino, they would say ultreia (meaning 'further onward') and the response would be et suseia. I totally got a little jolt of happiness because of that. 🤓

    The sky opened up and it began 🌧just as we got into town, I'm glad we didn't have to descend a slippery 1,500 ft... It almost makes going through the creepy forest super early this morning worth it, almost. 😱    Read more

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    Zubiri to Pamplona

    May 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We slept in to the late hour of 6am, it was luxurious. We had a yummy breakfast of cereal and yogurt at the albergue then set off for Pamplona, ~14 miles away. Along with many other Peregrinos, we made a quick stop mid way for cafe con leche y chocolate cliente at La Parada de Zuriain, which had a neat iron pilgrim sculpture in the front. We also passed an industrial witha prominant magnesium plant, it was rather steam punk.Read more

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    Pamplona

    May 1, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We arrived to a party in Pamplona. May 1 is Labor Day / May Day in Spain. This public holiday is associated with the start of spring as well as the celebration of workers. Apparently, the locals enjoy this day by meandering through city streets in large, drunken throngs smoking copious amounts of cigarettes and pushing baby strollers. 👶🏻🚬🍻Read more

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    Pamplona to Puente La Reina

    May 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I woke up around 3AM and spent the morning researching for a fictional piece I'm writing and meditating. We began walking at 7:30am. Every day I wake up healthy enough to walk, I am grateful. Today's elevation gain was about 1,500 ft. We're moving into a more Mediterranean climate and I was very happy to shed a few layers of clothing and feel warm.

    We took a rest day in Pamplona, accompanied by impressive peacocks, and then hiked over the alto del perdòn to the town of Puenta de la Reina. Along the path is the site of an ancient battle between the Muslim king Aigolando and Charlemagne.    Read more

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    Puente La Reina

    May 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Puente La Reina or Bridge of the Queen. 👸🏻Neat Templar influenced cathedral. 🛐 At the albergue (our second pick, the first was full) chatted with a neat gal from Australia who made it to Everest base camp last year. Rash on ankles is most likely due to a combination sweat, heat and wool socks - I'll be wearing Tom's synthetic socks tomorrow (and maybe for the rest of the Camino).Read more

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    Puente La Reina to Estella

    May 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A chorus of snores woke us up throughout the night, but we still managed to get an early start, leaving around 7:30AM. We stopped at a bar (it had been open since 7am, a rarity! We haven't found anything open before 8am.) We stocked up with extra croissants to make sure we would have food in case the bars in the towns we walk through were all closed for siesta. Tom and I exclaim over how little solicitation of pilgrims there is in the towns and in the Camino.

    Many other pilgrims decided to leave at the same time and so it felt a bit like we were on an organized hike with a big group of friends. We stopped for lunch in Lorca and I met my spirit animal (a pilgrim kitty). I had a sumptuous lentil soup. We spent a few minutes enjoying the high vaulted ceiling arches 14th century Iglesia La Asunción in Villatuerta, where we recieved a warm welcome (also atypical!). We were fond of the agricultural landscape, particularly the vineyards and wheat fields.    Read more

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    Estella

    May 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    14 miles of not so gentle rolling ups and downs brought us to "Estella la Bella" with a Roman bridge and roads. We opted to stay in the municipal for 6 euro, it has 96 beds and was full by 3:30pm. Tom and I did partner Yoga stretches on the back patio as our socks dried out on the line. We chatted with other pilgrims and swapped travel stories and shared injury updates. Yesterday, my left shoulder was a fiery ball of pain but a few adjustments a la Tom those morning seemed to (mostly) alleviate the issue. He'll get a calf massage this evening as a thank you. In the morning, I departed with the brick of a book I bought at a train station in France and have been lugging around with me. I'll finish reading it when I return home, for now, I hope some other pilgrim enjoys it.Read more

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    Los Arcos

    May 5, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Another 14 mile day with a bit of rain but warmer temps (~60 degrees) brought us to Los Arcos. On the way, we visitrd the infamous Irache wine fountain. After arriving, we checked in la casa de la abuela (Grandma's house) where we had fortunately, add it was full) reserved a private room with shared bathroom. It was the perfect respite. We read, stretched and finished with a family style dinner of salad, bread & lentil soup with talkative and boisterous pilgrims from Italy, Korea, Norway, Japan and Canada (we were the only Americans). Everyone was in shock that the Americans could speak French (and some spanish). We were invited to stay in a new pilgrim friends second bedroom in Tokyo.Read more

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    Viana

    May 6, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We gifted ourselves a short day of walking only 12 miles. We checked in to Albergue Izar then wandered around the town, exploring historical remains and lunching on strawberry and cream, tortilla and bocadillo queso.

    Afterwards, Tom punctured my blisters (one on each pinky toe) and rested a bit before socializing, reading and acro yoga'ing on the patio of our Albergue. It was a nice surprise to find that Charlotte, a 25 year old from Brooklyn that we had chatted with at Suseia, was staying here and her mother, who she is traveling with. We had a communal meal, the vegetarian option came late but with a large salad and more spanish tortilla. We enjoyed dinner conservation, particularly with Lizette, from Sweden and an Australian guy who had walked the Camino 9 times.    Read more

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    Viana to Navarrette

    May 7, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Thinking we had a short walking day, we got a late start, leaving albergue Izar at around 8am. We were surprised to find we'd messed up the math somehow as we walked 14.5 miles rather than the 11 miles we'd planned on. Luckily, we found some beautiful parks and motivational artwork in the form of local graffiti to keep us going. We arrived at Navarrette around 2pm and checked into the municipal albergue, with cheaper boarding and communal rooms/ bathrooms. We're both excited to have moved out of the Baswue country and into the kingdom of Rioja, known for it's wine and wealth.

    Tom, who listens to Spanish podcasts as walk, is already so conversational in Spanish that other pilgrims ask him how to say things in Spanish and locals compliment him on how well he speaks the language. This has earned him the nickname "polyglot" from me, in return, he has christened me "grass-waterer" for reasons that are self evident and earn me no praise from the locals.    Read more

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    Rioja

    May 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Relatively flat 10 miles of walking made for an easy day. We've come 120 miles total and I would feel more of a sense of accomplishment if I weren't sitting in a waiting room, practicing how to say "my ear hurts" in Spanish. Good news on all fronts, the general md we met with (who used Google translate to explain my prognosis ✅) said it should clear up on its own and there we weren't charged for the visit. Estupendo! We spent the afternoon reading in a great area by the slowly trickling stream, buying groceries, dining at cafes (as a vegetarian, mixed salad is always my main course) and chatting with Danni, the Australian girl we'd befriended a few days back.

    In an act of indulgence, we stayed in a private double room with a "una cama de matrimonial" or marriage bed. It was the first time we slept in a bed larger than a single (often doubles are just two singles pushed together and it leaves a gap in the center) and I slept 9 hours, waking without an alarm at 6am. 😴😄    Read more

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    Santo Domingo

    May 9, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A 14 mile trek brought us to Santo Domingo, around whom there persists a very silly mythos. I won't get into it here but it has led to the many centuries old tradition of keeping chickens in the local cathedral. We did a tour of the cathedral and it was full of fantastical artwork, which gave it a MoMA-esq feel. The Albergue we stayed in, the Confradiá del Santo, modern, bright and clean, was one of the best equipped and designed hostels we've been in.Read more

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    Tosantos

    May 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    On the way to the tiny, 53 person, town of Tosantos, we passed into the autonomous region of Castilla y León and saw some neat, medieval relics. When there weren't cool things to look at, I read aloud to Tom as we walked (reading "Dawn" by Octavia Butler). Many times along the way we encountered the pungent odor of manure. To distract from the smell, Tom and I shared some philosophical dialogue on the Camino.

    R: "We're doing pretty well today, timing-wise, don't you think?"
    T: "Crossing the finish line is not the same thing as winning the race."
    R: "I'm pretty sure if you're the only one who signs up for the race, that you win be default."
    T: "Mmmk, little dawdler. Maybe your nickname will be the dawdle queen."
    R: 😑

    We opted for a longer (17+ mile) day as Tom was excited about having a unique experience at San Francisco de Asis, an albergue that offers sleeping mats, communal meals, and a prayer service with the ritual of reading notes by past pilgrims. When we arrived, they told us that they had no running water...so we're definitely getting a real pilgrim experience. I'm excited about putting my feet up. 👣    Read more

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    Agés

    May 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    A windy, winding trail with a moderate amount of elevation through a pine forest brought us to the town Agés. Along the way, we stopped in a Villafranca Montes de Orca, which was once a Roman city, and had second breakfast at the Hospital de la Reina, which hosted up to 18,000 pilgrims per year in the 17th century. There, we enjoyed the company of a little, local tabby cat. It was also fun to run into Jennifer, a woman from Korea we originally met a few days ago in a different town.

    Afterwards, we walked at about the same pace as a small group from the southwest of England whom we had met and chatted with the day before. Their names are Tim and Bob and they are walking with their wives, their last stop is Burgos. Given that one is an MD and the other a priest, they're a surprisingly fun bunch, and theyparticularly enjoy discussing the shit show that is the current state of American politics. We happened to stay at the same albergue yesterday evening and they gave us some tips for the castle tour in England we're planning to tack on to the last leg of our trip.

    There was some competition for beds at Agés, and that, paired with the cold, wet weather, provided Tom and I motivation to move quickly. From apparently nowhere (or perhaps it came from the second chocolate croissant this morning) I outpaced Tom, even finding the energy to jog for a bit. A one point Tom said, "OK, I know you have a lot of energy, but no more jogging." We made great time and completed the 14.5 miles an hour or so more quickly than the last time we this distance.

    We arrived in time to get bunk beds, duct tape reinforcing the top bed; the total cost for a bed, dinner and breakfast for one of us is $22.    Read more

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