• Day 46 Llyn Hywel to Barmouth

    June 16 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Tuesday: Up 06:00 away 11:38

    Foggy morning and forecast not encouraging so decided to walk up and down Rhinog Fach lightly loaded leaving pitch setup. Outline plan was to abandon walk to Barmouth, instead walking to the cost to get bus home.

    Walk to foot of Rhinog Fach involved walking along north edge of Llyn Hywel over lakeside large boulders. Variously being inches then metres above the lake. Quite a hazardous 0.25 mile route that took me 25 minutes this first time.

    Low visibility and strong SW wind on the way down from Rhinog Fach persuaded me that walk to Barmouth should probably be abandoned.

    Once back at pitch began making breakfast at which point the fog cleared, the wind abated, the sun came out and walk to Barmouth seemed back on. Then neighbour Lotta appeared from over the ridge and, after a short chat, said she was walking to Barmouth, which settled it for me. Original objective back on!

    After striking camp first challenge was the lakeside boulder field. This 3rd crossing only took 17 minutes. Very pleased with this considering I was now carrying 15Kg. Up to the Bwlch (saddle), right / south a short walk across grass, then a steep climb up Y Llethr up loose stone, scree and the occasional solid rock. This was definitely the most hazardous section of the day. One that, a few years ago, I fell down and rolled a few times before stopping. It hurt! Half way up, when stopped for a snack, the only lone hiker I saw all day appeared from behind with a hearty "Good morning" that startled me somewhat.

    Arrived on grassy top of Y Llethr without incident then a few miles of slight ups and downs over grass and rock surface to a 'pull' up Diffwys. Just after Diffwys surface changed to all grass. Here I thought I heard voices. I have found I often do but it turns out to a particular creak of my kit, or a bird song or a sheep just over a rise or some such but this time it was definitely voices. Turned put to a party of about 20 school children, presumably on Duke of Edinburgh (DoE) scheme.

    Next few miles over grass with the occasional bog passed without much interest except the occasional ladder stile, a few wearing ascents, the cloud becoming thicker and rain seeming more likely. I was becoming quite tired now, slowing a great deal on the ascents and questioning why I was doing this!

    Final couple of miles down towards Barmouth rain started. Here I made 3 navigational errors requiring retracing steps. I could see that others had made the same second error as I had because a large number of stones had been pulled of the top of a wall at SH 62178 17550 / 52.73797, -4.04283. Back tracking up hill along the wall I found an unchained gate at SH 62230 17533 / 52.73784, -4.04205 which turned out to be the correct wall crossing.

    From here it was a direct straight line across grass downhill, sometimes steeply, to outskirts of Barmouth. Then a ⅓ of a mile on road to Stuart's house where I arrived 20:30. Stuart drove us into town where were too late for any of the restaurants but we did manage some chips, pie and potato scallops from the Carousal café.

    Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
    06:00 up
    06:57 began walking
    07:22 began ascent from NE Llyn Hywel
    07:30 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
    08:09 Rhinog Fach attainted in fog
    09:05 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
    09:14 NE Llyn Hywel attained
    09:43 back at Llyn Hywel pitch
    11:16 Packing finished
    11:38 left pitch area
    11:55 NE corner of Llyn Hywel
    12:02 Bwlych Llyn Hywel
    13:41 Y LLethr attained
    15:25 raise immediately north of Diffwys
    15:58 Diffwys attained.
    17:52 Bwlch y Rhiwgyr attained
    18:45 passed Bwlch Cwmmaria ladder stile
    19:00 461m Trig point attained
    20:30 Arrived Stuart's house

    10.6 miles with 2625' of ascent from Llyn Hywel to Rhinog Fach completed at end of 46th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 434
    Miles in 2026 : 24
    Weather : foggy morning, then sunnny for about an hour, then hazy sun, later low cloud, rain for final hour
    Number of people passed : 2, plus a party of about 20 children, presumably doing Duke of Edinburgh (DoE)
    Objective tomorrow : Go home to dry out
    Read more