MotHell

I managed to convince Sanj to try the TCT alternative route....10 miles in and we hit a sign saying the road was closed for resurfacing. 🙄 We gingerly pushed forward but each meter rotated claggy clods of mud around our tyres to be cheese-grated through the chains. Not ideal.

However, after liberating some kitchen towel and wet wipes from a nearby JCB, we cleaned our steeds up and eventually made it to Sault Ste Marie, the most easterly point of Lane Superior. Sanj headed into town to sit in a Starbucks to recharge, keep his social media wheels turning, and meet an Indian MP (as you do), while I checked out the town, got my cassette cleaned, and chain and disc pads replaced...this was the last bike shop for 1000miles.

Sanj had found us a cheap motel he'd used before. I didn't think 2 star could sink so low... stained sheets & towels, brown marks in the bath, lights missing, broken coffee machine, glass fragments on the floor, no heating, etc. It was grim, and since the heating didn't work (the motelier turns it off in the summer), and I'd just hand -washed my kit, I had no way of drying stuff. While waiting for a portable heater that was supposed to be delivered, but never was, I attempted to steam my stocks dry in the microwave. This technique has worked in the past, but this time maybe I had them on a tad too high, causing them to ignite and fill the room with acrid smoke. Shite. Any minute the fire alarms would kick in and the whole motel would be evacuated because of me...or so I thought...turns out I can add 'broken smoke alarms' to the ever-growing list of issues.

RIP fave riding socks.

...

The Superior Thunder Bay problem is finally upon me.

Let me explain... During my route research online almost everyone talks about the dreaded Highway 17 - the main arterial road across Canada that navigates the hundreds of miles of Superior's northern coast. Opinions seem equally divided but all seem to agree that it's not always a safe or pleasant road to ride. Over the years many cyclists have been injured and even died due to the alleged endless streams of heavy goods vehicles, RVs and motorists who vy for the narrow roads and crumbling shoulders.
As I've travelled through WS host to WS host I've been trying to gather some intel and opinion. About 40% of people think it's not worth the risk and I should dip into America and take their southern route around the lake through Michigan. Another 40% say it's one of the most beautiful sections of the journey and can't be missed but just needs caution. The rest suggested hitchhiking or a train to bypass.

Despite not wanting to, I'd even applied for a ESTA VISA for the U.S. just in case I had a last minute change of plan.

The morning of the deciding came. Sanj wasn't responding to any of my messages and I couldn't wait around.

If I could navigate London's north and south circular.... surely I could manage HW17?

And with that foolproof logic....I set offLæs mere