• Rickster
May – Aug 2023

Exit, pursued by a bear

Biking Solo Across Canada 2023 Read more
  • Trip start
    May 2, 2023

    Exit, pursued by a bear

    April 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It's been 20+ years in the dreaming, but it seems like I might finally do it.

    How hard can it be? Fly a bike over to one side of Canada and pedal till I reach the other - easy right?

    Let's see...

  • Training...

    April 22, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    ....ish

    Found this x-trainer on Freecycle... went round to pick it up and met this lovely guy... ex martial arts teacher with 60+ Samurai swords adorning the walls of his living room (including a laser-etched, personalised, electric blue, titanium whopper!)Read more

  • Packing nightmares

    May 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
  • Bike + box + car + airport = ✅

    May 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Just a couple of tequilas to celebrate Old Man Cox before a fitfull sleep perforated by nightmares as to whether the 12:40 flight was AM or PM.

    A speedy morning's bike dismantling, strapping up, boxing and taping to perfection, before wedging it in Kimberly's monster truck and heading off airport bound.

    Smoooooth as!

    Until we reach the check-in chap who declared the box was too big and jumped on the phone to his supervisor.

    I calmly told him it was within Air Canada's specifications, (suppressing inner screams)...and he responded saying it was only a small airplane.

    Who knew 737 Max planes came in "small".

    Hello Worst Nightmare.... I've been expecting you.
    Read more

  • Bomb search nightmares

    May 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Check-in chappie's panicked look vanishes as he palmed me off onto a miserable lady at oversized luggage...who luckily just told us to plonk it on the conveyor! Yay!

    Or so we thought.

    The conveyor was not for conveying.

    Buttons were pressed, switches are thrown, heads were scratched and brows were furrowed.... but it wouldn't budge.

    With an irritated look she gave up and shooed us down the departure hall to be intercepted by a man in a turban who quizzed me intensively as to the box contents before telling us to follow him deep behind security lines, picking up a roll of cellotape and some scissors on his way.

    I looked blankly at Martyn. This wasn't going to plan. It was feeling more and more like a choose-your-own-ending book... I would have gladly crossed the Mage's palm with the gold coins I'd found in the previous zone if it would just have skipped this chapter.

    We wheeled past the toilets, through double security doors, and into a frosted glass security room. "The box must be opened and everything taken out for explosive testing."

    Joy.

    Perhaps I shouldn't have bought a bike with the word Bomb emblazoned across the crossbar. Hindsight eh?
    Read more

  • Hello Canadia!

    May 3, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Nova Scotia's finest border forces actually let me in....and the bike too! HooBloodyRah!

    Said goodbye to some lovely airplane seat neighbours who'd kept me company, before heading for the exit and the smiley face of Mike, my Warm Showers* host for a couple of days - he's uber-kindly offered to pick me+bike up. Kindness of strangers ✅♥️

    Spent a lovely evening chatting with Mike & Karen (Mike's Mrs) about their travel adventures across the would - they've just come back from 4 months cycling in Myanmar & Malaysia & Thailand - sounds amazing and is next on the list, after maybe Cuba, although I should probably see how Canada goes first....

    Bike assembly and full damage assessment tomorrow morning before hunting down supplies in prep for hitting the road tomorrow.

    It's really happening... gulp

    *Warm Showers (I know, dodgy name) is an awesome online network of cyclists willing to offer a garden to camp in, couch to sleep on, spare bed, shower, tools, or whatever they can to help fellow bike tourers navigate the world. Thousands of strangers just wanting to be kind and exchange a story or two - what's not to love.
    Read more

  • Brass monkeys

    May 3, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Is it feasible to camp when the temperature is going to drop to 5° (feels like 1°)..... and then the following day's camping 1° (feels like -2°)

    Asking for a friend. Advice?

  • Mile 1

    May 4, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Bike reassembled and kind-of seems ok!

    Goodbye Halifax!

    Mile 1 - GO

    Next stop Wild Nature Campsite .... which Mike seems to think is a nudist resort.... and not exactly what I had planned

  • Sushi's Revenge

    May 5, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Terrible night. Freezing. Stomach cramps. 5:00 a.m. diarrhea.

    Still, at daybreak I got up, decamped, and tried to battle through it, but every mile was dizzying and nauseating sub 0°C winds and rain combined with frozen toes, fingers and face meant I kept veering into the traffic....when I wasn't taking a break to retch by the road side.

    Time to re think.

    I've arrived at Truro, just 30/60 painful miles into today's plan and sought refuge in a Comfort Inn to sleep it off.

    🤢
    Read more

  • Coronation station

    May 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Rotund lady asked if she could share my space at the breakfast table.... plonked herself down and noticed the coronation playing on the TV...
    "Nahhh,... We're all Kings and Queens if he is" she proclaimed skeptically.
    I laughed and agreed before she recognised my accent and stated "Oh, you're English!".... followed by a helpful explanation "You're from there then"

    I nodded and smiled in agreement.

    I like Canadians.
    Read more

  • Mengo Camping

    May 6, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Day 3, and despite hours of sleep, litres of water/Gatorade, my stomach still wasn't right but I couldn't miss a day's progress. Onwards!

    Oh but today... today has been heavenly in comparison to yesterday's hell... I've enjoyed every hill and valley, vast rivers and amazing vistas, nevermind some blessed sunshine!

    Then what should I (unexpectedly) come across but....Mengo Campsite - a place for men to go and camp (!). Well, I always knew they'd be some bears along this trail ....
    Read more

  • Dogday

    May 7, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Tom and Brendan kindly invited me over for some delicious homemade chicken soup last night and we chatted about travelling and their epic journey in a 1979 RV which somehow managed to get them across Canada! Lovely guys, but I couldn't stay late....routes to prep and an early night planned.

    Had a restful night in granny's trailor, then come the morning pinched some of her porridge for breakfast (all a little "red riding hood" eh?) and headed off proudly wearing my Mengo wifebeater.

    Next stop another WS host - Brent - from Tidnish... in just another example of how crazily kind this community is, he's left his cabin open for me and told me to meet and greet the dog by name so that he trusts me, and that he be back later since he might be out kayaking or kiting(!)

    Love it!
    Read more

  • Traveltales

    May 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Brent has this lovely place with Angutie (Inuktitut for "dog") just on a mini peninsula poking out into Tidnish Bay. I think I remember Brent sounding like he was a bit of a character when I first spotted him in the WS map, and hence rerouted to visit, but I didn't imagine he'd be such a amazingly interesting guy with a trillion stories and traveltales.

    If we weren't talking fat bikes, bears, yoga, wakeboarding and foraging for fungal tincture, I was listening in awe about him building igloos, fending off polar bears, his times on the sea including crewing only the 2nd boat ever to sail, unpowered, through the Northwest Passage. Don't think Brent was showing off, he wasn't, just enjoying great stories. After some Googling just now it seems he was also part of a six-man team that made the first unsupported dog sled trip to the North Pole leading to him being awarded the Order of Canada! Wowsers

    Anguite had sacrificed his daily run for Brent's plan to take me out clam digging ! Wellied up, we waddled to the water's edge and started sprinkling little salt mounds on the razor clam holes... and within a few minutes out they popped, freshly seasoned and ready to be plucked, cooked and chowdered!

    Come the morning, more great stomach-filing calorific food and some killer coffee before we headed off for 'Guite's run, and our cycle, as they saw me off. At our parting junction we shook hands, I thanked him profusely, and said goodbye feeling oddly sad to leave....

    Next stop Moncton, and I'd had no response from my WS contact so it looks like tonight will be wild camping....but at least I've now learnt some great throaty critter-scaring noises from Brent 🐻
    Read more

  • So long Nova Scotia!

    May 8, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    And that was it....one province done! Ok, it is the slimmest little slip of a province, but a province none the less.

    Helllllo New Brunswick!

    Then before I knew it, 38 sun-soaked miles were done....and everything had started to get rather French 🇫🇷

    <que comedy French nasal noises />

    Then, even stranger still....a truck suddenly swerved in front of me, pulled up, and a very excited man jumped out and ran towards me shouting with a French lilt "You are cycling across Canada, no?!"

    It was impossible not to join him at this super-smiley hyperactive level of joy, and I exclaimed "Yes, yes, why!?"

    ...

    It transpired that Jean Claude had cycled across Canada a few years ago, albeit in the opposite direction, and he was overjoyed at finding someone else trying it! We chatted about kit and routes while speeding traffic dodged us; he might even have solved my Superior Thunder Bay problem (more on this another time), before he proclaimed "Here, here, take my card, ring me anytime you get stuck, anything you need, I'll come and get you, and I've got contacts all over the route so just don't hesitate!"

    As he jumped back in his van and drove off, I laughed out loud, smiling like a fool and feeling like Charlie Bucket 🎫
    Read more

  • Monstrous Moncton

    May 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Somehow the weather is able to drop 10° in an hour....I go from sleeveless top n shorts to 4 layers and trousers within no time, and if I'm not quick enough on the change it's bone chilling and hard to recover body temperature. So it was when I sailed into the beautiful nature reserve on the south side of Moncton and the gray clouds closed in.
    The plan was to wild camp here, well somewhere outside of the city, but I hadn't quite banked on it being just that....a city, a big gray, traffic-laiden city...the most populated in New Brunswick.
    A dark feeling had descended with the temperature. It just didn't feel right. Navigating roaring trucks and HGVs on 6 lane highways - where had my beautiful trails gone, the birdsong, the streams, the smiling waving people. I actually felt at risk. I had to get out of there. I bailed; over sidewalks, pedestrian crossings, dodging traffic and hoping there weren't any police watching, to the safely of Atlantic Motel on the outskirts of the other side of town. Time to warm up, charge up, and get a fat boy pizza delivered. #ruffinIt

    The next day was a nice fresh start. I'd dried the tent out overnight and rocked off early. A short stop in Salisbury looking for essentials and some bear spray in prep for this evening's wild camping... but no joy...every shopkeeper I asked looked at me as though I was mad - "Ain't not bears here".

    Onwards.

    I had a possible campsite in mind but its website said it was closed, still, worth a try, since I was only a little 1-man tent. When I arrived I immediately got a super warm welcome from Carrie and her husband Chris, who wouldn't let me pitch the tent and insisted I stay in one of their cabins, AND join them for supper! How could I say no?
    Read more

  • Breakfast treats

    May 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Stopped in Jemseg at Turners One Stop Cafe for a big fatboy breakfast - Perry and I burn some calories so I'm literally eating for two these days.

    Just finishing off my 3rd coffee (loving this free refills ethos) when the lady 2 tables away starts a conversation...

    Janet's a super-lovely yoga teacher who's done some crazy travels herself, and we chatted about how things just seem to work out if you relax and accept them with no expectations. She seemed like a firm believer that you had to learn to tune in to the signs that were presented to you along each of our journeys.

    It was a good chat.

    At the end I got up and waddled my stuffed body over to pay.

    Except that I couldn't.

    Janet had jumped up and was at the till before me, insisting that she was going to pay for my breakfast! Not for the first time on this trip I was completely bowled over. I tried to refuse. I said it was in no way necessary, but she explained by the simple phrase which is rapidly becoming the subtitle of this blog : The Kindness Of Strangers

    I'm running out of words to describe all of these experiences without sounding repetitive, or saccharined. Am I just too used to London and Londoners, or is someone looking down on me?
    Read more

  • Drop dead Fredericton

    May 11, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    New Brunswick's capital is beautifully set on the banks of the St John river and things were looking up for my accomodation options despite all WS hosts in the area being unavailable - I'd asked a WS contact 50 miles away for some advice and then mentioned I was struggling to find somewhere here, but she said she'd might have a friend whose garden I could camp in, but in the end, despite waiting for 4 hours for her confirmation it wasn't to be. Meh.

    Motel, local pub, fish & chips and beer.

    Next morning I stuffed my face at breakfast and half-inched enough for lunch too (some advantages to unbugeted motels). Then set off in search of bear spray once more - for some reason neither motel clerks, shopkeepers nor the public can understand my pronunciation of "bear spray" and each time I had to resort to embarassing childlike mimes, clenched teeth and growls 😬🙄. I finally found Jarred in Canadian Tires behind a caged-off area full of guns and rifles (the "Sports" section of the store). I thought I'd go in strong with "Can I buy a gun?" No point dickin around, right? If something's trying to maul you would rather squirt something at it, in the hope that you get it in the eyes, or just pull a trigger?

    Bad mistake. Que 10 minute lecture from mislocated Comic Book Guy on the rules and regulations of gun ownership in Canada, INCLUDING ALL provincial variations. If I could have reached the guns I might have just ended it all there.... Just to get him to stop. Anyway, he sold me some bear spray after I signed a massive waiver and I asked him if he'd mind being in a photo. He seemed surprised and confused at the same time but then quickly unlocked the secure area and beckoned me in for the shot so I could get the guns in the background. And there you have it folks.... If you ever want instant access to a shit load of high powered fire arms and ammunition but can't be arsed waiting for a police check and don't mind stealing, just buff Jarred's ego a little with a selfie request.
    Read more

  • Woodstock baby

    May 11, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The bear spray was just one piece of the complicated puzzle to wild camp this evening. In order to be bear-safe and have as few food odours around me as possible I'd swapped to cook a hot meal at lunch, clean everything and my hands thoroughly, then cycle the remaining miles, find a campspot, cycle at least 100m away, eat a takeaway sandwich, clean myself thoroughly including brushing teeth (toothpaste can attract bears) extract tents, sleeping stuff, bear spray and knife from bags before hanging the bags in a suitable tree 4m off the ground, return to campsite, sleep without being eaten.
    Faffarama eh?

    At lunch I dutifully put the plan into action and cooked up in a cute little playground by the river.

    The water looked amazing. The sun was beating down. I couldn't resist. I had to swim. There was a lady in the park with what looked like her grandson and I thought it wise to at least check if she knew of any reason I shouldn't swim.

    Wendy laughed when I queried the presence of alligators or water snakes, and we had a pleasant conversation as she watched over her grandson, Sawyer. They were passing time as her next grandkid was just entering the world in the local hospital.

    It seemed we strayed onto a sensitive topic though when Covid and governments' responses were broached. I don't think she was a big fan of the incumbents.

    Giving me a knowing look, Wendy explained at length how she was convinced the hundreds of fires in Alberta were Justin Trudeau's doing.

    When she continued the second saga of her monologue with "As a Christian..." I gave her my 'Oo that's nice' look and wondered what hell was coming next.

    'Revelations' - quelle surprise. Always a safe go-to book to prove your point I find.

    As she quoted several passages about the upcoming end of the world precipitated by a new global order I moved my hands to surreptitiously cover the big cockman on my Mengo sleeveless top. No point in asking for Act II of this tragi-conedy.

    Lovely dip though
    Read more

  • Mis-seasoned

    May 12, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Ended up at another campsite that wasn't opened but the lovely lady said I could pitch up, happily topped up my water, and suggested there were toilets in the public park I could use - I'll happily take the option of a body wash from a sink rather than sleep in stinky kit.

    Then a smooth 71miles up the TCT* along an abandoned railtrack that would have been stunning in its day coasting the mighty St John. It's a shame Canada's rail network seems in such bad shape - Portillo wouldn't be happy.

    My gears decided today would be the day they'd start auto-changing. Joy. 2 hours of attempts to reindex them hasn't really helped and I've been cursing not perfecting the skill beforehand - how hard can it be when there's only 3 screws to fiddle with!? Meh. I'll have to cope till Quebec since I didn't fancy the hour's backtrack to the nearest bike shop.

    Arrived at Mulherin Campsite and yet again.....closed. I really should have researched the open seasons properly. Caught the owners on their doorstep just going out and Cheryl said that she'd just replied to the email I'd sent yesterday asking if they were open 🙄.

    Buuuut...I hereby take that eye rolling emoji back and out of the cosmos because they've let me stay in their monster storage shed! Woohoo! Thanks Ron & Cheryl!

    After a quick freshen up in the lake (none of the campsites keep the water on out of season to protect the pipes from frost), I've rustled up some jambalaya, and although the serving suggestions didn't include my only source of protein, the bag of nuts went in. Yummy.

    *Trans Canada Trail
    Read more

  • Woodpecker Wake-up

    May 12, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A broken night's sleep due to the ridiculously loud cacophony of bugs, critters and birds all throughout the night... It literally sounded like Test Day at the alarm factory

    This Woodpecker and his mates started at 7pm trying every panel of the barn before sleeping off their headaches and restarting at 6am.

    Here's my 'Awesome and unusual-for-Brits' wildlife tally so far :

    Bald eagle
    Ground Hog
    Chipmunks
    Osprey
    Woodpeckers!
    Read more

  • Grand Falls (of doooom)

    May 13, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    I've still not accustomed myself to the schizophrenic climatic changes and, frankly, I'm running out of time - this might be my last night in New Brunswick! Which means that, cycling around the corner, complete with a comedy string of onions around its neck is.... Quebec! Arghhhhh (eh-ho-eee-ho-eeee-ho)

    ...

    My mood generally revolves around my qualify of sleep and what with the New Brunswick Zoological Philharmonic playing all night, together with the crashing Stomp rhythms of the night's rain on tin roof, today's been a bit of a struggle. Headwind, icy rain and mainly highways... I was relieved to manage 50 miles and happy to see that my destination campsites was closed (despite showing open online).

    The Grand Falls lived up to their name though, I just wish my phone could have captured the subsonic, chest-rattling reverb as wave after wave endlessly pounded rock after rock after rock. I love feeling gloriously insignificant when Mother Nature shows her true colours.

    A canabis-fumigated Happy Motel is my welcome stop....oh shower... I've missed you.
    Read more