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- Dag 12
- lørdag den 13. maj 2023 kl. 20.04
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Højde: 167 m
CanadaEdmundston47°21’58” N 68°19’38” W
One for Tim

111 carriages
That's over 2.5 kilometers of train
Gulp
And he honked for me!!
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- Dag 13
- søndag den 14. maj 2023 kl. 09.03
- 🌬 6 °C
- Højde: 160 m
CanadaEdmundston47°21’59” N 68°19’34” W
Mech fail #1

Just packing up in Edmunston and noticed the main bolt holding my rear pannier rack is missing on one side. This has put a huge amount of oddly-angled strain on the otherside which has just sheared through the main aluminium support on that side.
Not good.
It's amazing it hasn't caused more damage since the unbolted rack must have been bouncing on my disc brake. It was fine during my morning mech checks so must have come loose during the day... Guess I need afternoon checks going forwards too.
I've swapped a bolt from a less load-bearing point, gaffa-taped the pole together, and ziptied the rack to the saddle post . The motel owner has kindly found me a bolt which doesn't fit properly but might take some of the strain.
It won't hold. Plus it's Sunday so the local garages are closed, but, with a little luck I might find some options in Canadian Tire (there's not much they don't sell)...if it's open.Læs mere
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- Dag 13
- søndag den 14. maj 2023 kl. 10.38
- 🌬 7 °C
- Højde: 165 m
CanadaEdmundston47°22’59” N 68°20’18” W
Double decker bodge

Check out this bodge!
The Raleigh universal rear rack that I picked up on Canadian Tire just wasn't inspiring confidence, even compared to my knackered Bontrager, so, I've stolen some bits to sure it up and half installed the rest - seemed the best way of packing it as a spare.
Several people stopped to chat in French as I've been bodging outside the store - one guy even asked when my last hot shower was and offered one! I must look really manky since I only showered an hour ago 😬
Hey ho....I've even got a crappy rear reflector now! Woohoo!
Luckily it's only a 40miler today...and the campsite says it's open from April (to be believed?)
Let's see... Onwards!Læs mere
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- Dag 13
- søndag den 14. maj 2023 kl. 17.50
- Højde: 188 m
CanadaCabano47°40’49” N 68°54’17” W
(not) Coming To America

Mart, we might have to rethink retirement plans....Cabano (or should I say Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac is just a dream of stunning lakeside views from vastly glazed beautiful properties, each with their own beach and boat launch.
Can we can we please please??Læs mere
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- Dag 14
- mandag den 15. maj 2023 kl. 11.09
- 🌬 15 °C
- Højde: 4 m
CanadaRivière-du-Loup47°51’22” N 69°32’43” W
Off my site English pigdog!

Ok, so I did pass a sign blocking the TCT, but it was lying face down so I assumed the trail was now open and they'd remove the sign later.
Wrong.
The trail just ended in a massive, monstrous mess of gravel mountains, HGVs, digger, rollers and doozers galore in yellow hardhats and high viz jackets. Everyone was busy doing something but non of it seemed at all coordinated.... like a crèche for grown men with a JCB fetish.
I tried to inch my way through but within 5 mins a flashy lighty truck was rushing towards me, and this man jumped out and threw a load of French at me, whilst gesticulating wildly.
Que 10min safety walk escort off site.
Ok, he didn't call me an English PigDog, but I kind of wanted him to....
https://youtu.be/QSo0duY7-9sLæs mere

RejsendeHa haaa love the harp back to Python days “you useless English pig dog!”
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- Dag 15
- tirsdag den 16. maj 2023 kl. 12.19
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Højde: 174 m
CanadaLes Éboulements47°28’22” N 70°19’49” W
St Lawrence River X-ing

Monster day planned to leave Cabano and cover the 42miles of unpaved, forest trails to Rivière-Du-Loup ferry port for the midday crossing to Saint-Siméon (~1h) then 20miles down to La Malbaie to meet my next WS host, Esther, and her family!
The trail said 42 miles but it was hills and gravel so likely to be 5h... Hence a 6am wake up call to decamp, cycle and ensure I had an hour to find the ferry, buy a ticket and embark. Painful enough but it was only later that I realised I'd crossed a time zone into Quebec and so had got up at 5am - eugh.
Ferry was lovely, although despite sitting in the bar with several others, no staff arrived to dish drinks out. Which actually turned out to be a blessing since the north coast's remaining 20 miles were crammed full of headwinds and leg-destroying hills; truly painful.
However it was all worth it in the end though thanks to a super-warm welcome from Esther et la famille! We had loads of laughs covered a million subjects and it was really lovely to be made to feel so welcome by everyone (despite Esther trying to send me down crazy steep hills with her sight seeing directions en route!).Læs mere
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- Dag 15
- tirsdag den 16. maj 2023 kl. 20.46
- ⛅ 4 °C
- Højde: 74 m
CanadaBaie-Saint-Paul47°26’4” N 70°31’36” W
Punishing

Quebec City looms on the horizon but I'd managed to get accepted by WS hosts Pierre and Janick just a short 30 miles away who Esther & David had actually seen give a presentation on bike touring; it was impressed on me that this contact was cycle touring gold dust and not to be missed... How could I decline?
I was immediately spoilt by Pierre's amazing offer of a pick-up from Baie St Paul, saving me the last painful hill climb of the day (despite a good rest in La Malbaie my legs just weren't 100% yet), and soon we were back at their huge house buried in the hilltop forests.
Pierre and Janick have a beyond-impressive history of global bike tours and so I set about trying to glean as much information as possible.
It was around this point that my confidence started to creak...as we talked about routes and pored over phone maps Pierre's face started to shows signs of confusion, suprise, and coupled with a few micro-sighs and questioning hums, I could tell that my planned trails were raising eyebrows to say the least.
I know, I know, there are usually loads of different ways to get from A to B, but when you're loosely hanging 5 months of your adventure-of-a-lifetime on something that's taken you a long time to pull together, each question was like a punch in the stomach. Not least the fact that when Pierre had attempted to cycle East to West across Canada, he'd given up due to the pounding headwinds that just crippled progress.
If Pierre couldn't do it - a guy who spent 5 years nonstop bike touring - how did I have a hope in hell?
What have I done?
Why have I elevated a finale in Vancouver over the predominant West-East winds, setting myself up for an endless battle against mother nature???Læs mere

RejsendeRight then. It’s a known fact that French Canadians are as soft as …. butter! Whereas English Manc’s are as tough as …. nails and old boots combined. You excel at a challenge and challenges hate to see it’s you bearing down on them, as they know what to expect! Grit and determination all the way. You’ve got this Mister.

RejsendeHello my friend! Honestly, after spending the evening with you, I am convinced that you have the tools, skills and attitude to succeed in your challenge. You're absolutely right, the goal is to go from point A to point B and that's what you've done since May 2. You already have two and a half provinces crossing. You still have 4 and a half months left! The good weather will arrive shortly. The wind we have suffered in recent days is exceptional. It won't always be like that. But I understand your fears, disappointments and worries. You prepared yourself so carefully. Your GPS may take you to crazy places, you just have to take another road. Several of my friends saw you go up the hill to my house and were impressed by your pedal stroke. I was also impressed when I met you in the hills near the house. When I crossed you again at the Éboulements, you were still smiling and you still seemed in great shape. All of us are agree. You seemed very strong to us. Don't doubt yourself. Takes one day at a time. The important thing is not to have injuries. The rest is a question of morale (mental toughness) . Take a couple of days off in Quebec City. And I am convinced that after you will be on fire and you will ride like a beast. The mountains and the snow will be behind you

RejsendeDon’t trust too much Canada Trail and GPS, trust a bit enthusiast folks you meet and trust a lot your instinct and all the homework and preparations you made. And most important, I think, accept having some bad days, some bad mood, some doubts. I’m happy to helped you skipping the worst uphill you may ever see ! I hope, today, you were not riding in the snowstorm we’ve had here. We will continu to follow you as long as your adventure will progress.
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- Dag 16
- onsdag den 17. maj 2023 kl. 13.13
- ☁️ 2 °C
- Højde: 502 m
CanadaPetite-Rivière-Saint-François47°20’7” N 70°37’26” W
TBone to QCity

P&J cooked up some sumptuous T-bone BBQd steaks, baked potatoes, mushrooms, cheese, salads, nachos, and cake. - these guys were professional calorie consumers and knew exactly what I needed!
I guess I should apologise for the downbeat tone of my previous post... Thanks to those worries I'd spent the whole night unable to sleep, with the problems just going round and round in my head - hence waking an emotional wreck.
It's a really unusual life being on a bike all day...I feel like my adrenaline and blood sugar levels are roller coasters on the same track going in different directions around some sort of crazy Gordian knot. One minute I'm laughing and chatting happily to myself and the next I'm crying tears whipped away by the wind.
I should also clear up that Pierre wasn't in any way being nasty or unkind - he was in fact an incredibly useful and generous guy, not least because he solved my broken rack issue by giving me - yes gratis! - his old chromalloy rear pannier rack that should last me a lifetime.
Hero! But I think yesterday's mental bruising was just down to the fact that sometimes the truth hurts but that it leaves you better-off, informed, and able to then work with facts to progress. Tout est bien.
...
And finally....after much waffle, and battling snow and hail storms
..I've reached Quebec City! Hurrah!
The day was then topped off when a cyclist approached me as I arrived in the city, we got chatting, he was also touring, and also staying with a WS host this evening. Fun fun fun. Only one thing to do then....🍻....and despite 10 declinations, a WS host came through to save the day in the form of Boromir! This lovely outgoing guy with a winning smile was already hosting a young couple but has managed to squeeze me in on the couch with the warming cuddles of his two cats and two rabbits! Hurrah - more 🍻
First day off tomorrow - exciting day in the city!
Ps. Janick & Pierre's blog:
https://nomadesxnomades.com/2-nomadsLæs mere

RejsendeEnjoy ur break in Quebec Rick.rest those weary legs and sleep well 🤞. It'll all be fine. Xx😘

RejsendeSooo impressed that you are in Quebec City already! The hills on the north side of the Saint Lawrence are challenging. May in Canada especially the east coast is challenging- one minute it’s warm and the next minute it’s freezing (like today).

RejsendeYer, those hills are killers, never mind the weather - I'm still waiting for the mythical weather changes / warming that everyone is promising is just around the corner ;)
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- Dag 17
- torsdag den 18. maj 2023 kl. 15.16
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Højde: 10 m
CanadaLévis46°48’37” N 71°11’11” W
The First Lady

Talking of 'firsts', today I had my first real taste of poutine from - what I'm told is - the best poutinery in the city!
For those poor uninitiated souls.... I'm talking about chips, gravy and cheese curds....all mixed up in conglomerate mess, which is where the name originates: Joual l—or Québécois slang—for a “mess.”
How was it??? Hmmm, well, generally, as national dishes go...it was....how can I put this....a great source of calories! 😁🙃😬😶
Sad to say goodbye to the lovely Boromir and Maudie who've made the stunning Quebec City shine even brighter through their kindness!Læs mere

RejsendeI should have knocked on the window and said Hi! Oh, by the way, I had chance to cook with that denatured alcohol today and it's definitely the right stuff! Thanks David - so much better and I'm not covered in black soot! Hurrah!

RejsendeYuk that poutine reminds me of vomit. Not sure I need to sample it! 🤑
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- Dag 18
- fredag den 19. maj 2023 kl. 11.54
- Højde: 32 m
CanadaRivière Chaudière46°44’31” N 71°17’8” W
Adios QC!


RejsendeLove the Rick ‘Special’ - Peanuts and Pasta - double yum. That will keep you warm on a cool night! You’ll have all the content for a TCT Cook Book, by the end of the trip. Most excellent progress on the Km’s travelled, as well. Good on ya.
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- Dag 19
- lørdag den 20. maj 2023 kl. 09.27
- ☁️ 16 °C
- Højde: 141 m
CanadaVictoriaville46°3’27” N 71°57’13” W
Sherbrooke Sunshine Express

Goodbye Camping Tropical and all your screaming kids and "adult pool" that no human would survive in (huge floating scum islands atop brown water) - but I still would go back and pay that crazy $60 just for another swim in that river and its falls...
A last minute request/response from a WS host near Sherbrooke has come up trumps and led me to Marc's beautiful home-in-the-making complete with chickens, bee hives, great breakfasts, comfy bed and warm showers. It was a real pleasures to sit and chat about touring and Marc's grand adventures over Europe and North America (check out that map of his that I stole a picture of) - totally inspiring me to start planning my next trip!
Mart....get those stabilisers off and get practicing... Carpathian Mountains here we come!Læs mere

RejsendeReally enjoying following your adventures so far, looks like you are having an awesome time. Btw out of interest how many miles have you done since you started? X
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- Dag 20
- søndag den 21. maj 2023 kl. 13.19
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Højde: 834 m
CanadaMont Sylvio-Lacharité45°18’43” N 72°14’30” W
Randomer and randomer

I've been really enjoying Quebec's Eastern Townships (despite being told they weren't anything special), they're rather pretty with lakes, rivers and sweet streams dotted everywhere. I stopped in the attractive town of Magog for lunch but was soon turned off it due to the piped tinny music playing from each lamppost - odd, and a bit "Blackpool"... felt like I was being followed by an annoying teenager playing their crappy music from a phone.
Exciting to journey through Parc national du Mont-Orford... beautiful...well it was before the downpour.
I also got a little lost at some point, and, remembering past parental guidance, looked for a police man or a lady with children, as you do. Since the former was unlikely I pounced on one of the latter who was passing. We had a pleasant little chat, she enquired about my travels, and we went our separate ways.
Since none of the WS contacts I'd messaged had replied it was looking like I was heading for a soggy forrest camp. However it being a long weekend due to Victoria Day (that random public holiday which no Canadian seems to know why they celebrate a dead British queen, and which the Quebecois (so determined to distance themselves from the English) renamed it Journée des patriotes), the campsites were full. Full, and it was of course illegal to camp anywhere else within the park
Joy
Soggy joy
But then someone called to me.
It was the same lady with child...offering me accommodation the next night in Montréal, if I'd like it!
I've banged on about reading and heeding the signs on this blog already, so of course I jumped at the offer...which means so long as I can survive a wild camp outside of the park this evening I'm set for an upgrade and some welcome smiley faces as I roll into Montréal tomorrow! Woohoo!Læs mere
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- Dag 21
- mandag den 22. maj 2023 kl. 16.01
- ☀️ 16 °C
- Højde: 27 m
CanadaDistrict électoral de Charles-Le Moyne45°32’43” N 73°28’34” W
1000 milestone!

I wasn't sure I'd even get this far to be honest but I'm really sur la lune after 17 days on the trails, tracks and tarmac!
Just another 6112 miles to go!

RejsendeRick n Roll Mister! Epic achievement. So proud of you. You’ll be in Vancouver before you can say ….. Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch ….. !

RejsendeYer, it's got another couple of thousand miles in it I reckon... I'll hopefully have the time for a full bike clean and inspection today. .. and a nice day off if possible!
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- Dag 22
- tirsdag den 23. maj 2023 kl. 19.40
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Højde: 107 m
CanadaÎle Perrault45°46’32” N 74°0’47” W
Cosmo Montro

I've left the lovely Lisanne and Jerome who've randomly looked after me since bumping into Lis in the national park. They've both done some awesome traveling, and Jerome has crossed Canada too (the right way round) so it was great to get more thoughts and tweaks about the route. They'd kindly offered me a second night (city=rest/exploration day), but I was keen to get into the centre and soak up the essence, or at least try, despite no callbacks on the WS hotline.
According to Jerome, Montreal has terrible bike crime rates and so there was no way I was leaving the bike anywhere even slightly risky... a tricky requirement in a massive city offering mostly apartments & hotels.
Checked into the Hostel International (with the help of a phone call from Jerome) after they'd assured him they had somewhere secure for my bike. And so it is, after 20 years since those hazy Australian dorm days, I was back again on a top bunk in a (thankfully) small 4 bed room.
I don't know why but Montreal comes across as a big big city. Google says it's about a third is the size of London, but perhaps it's just the high-rises and huge grid layout twisting the perspective.
Either way it's brought me back down to city life with a bump. I hadn't realised how nicely distant the thought of big cities had become in my head. Don't get me wrong, Montreal's got a great vibe and I bet it's a really fun city but it's rudely mentally wrenching me out of my zen-like travel state.
Still, it didn't stop me immediately signing up for the pub crawl the hostel had organised that night....which turned out to be pretty hilarious - I'd forgotten how much hostel life is a mixed bag of randomers all just bursting with lovely excitable energy.
The pub crawl disclaimer/sign-up sheet included an age column.
The average was about 24.
Who's the (grand)daddy?Læs mere

RejsendeIf that sounds like what it sounds like you are truly lowering the tone mr gunningham
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- Dag 24
- torsdag den 25. maj 2023 kl. 19.48
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Højde: 181 m
CanadaPrévost45°52’15” N 74°4’25” W
Escape the city

It feels like it's been a whirlwind few days.... but Montreal wasn't happy at my departure, and she showed it the next day by opening the heavens on me...I knew that we had something special and that I shouldn't have just snuck out while she was sleeping but, but, but... sometimes that's just the right thing to do.
Rock bottom mood.
My waterproof (bastard) overshoes failed to live up to spec, as was the same with my expensive waterproof (crappy) trousers ...
...no one like a soggy bottom.
Salvation came in the form of Abigail (WS host) who offered some much-appreciated floor space and saved me from the cold dank mankyness that was this morning's torrential trundle out of Montreal through crossroad and traffic light after crossroad and traffic light.
I've only really got phone data here, via an eSIM, so SMS doesn't work and phone calls route via UK costing a fortune. Hence why Abi and I hadn't properly arranged anything and I found myself knocking on her door to no reply.... until it eventually opened to the face of a confused guy...
Me: "Hi, is Abi home?"
Guy with French accent: "no, she's out"
Me: "Ermmmm, I'm Rick"
- blank look from guy -
Me: "She said I could stay here tonight "
As soon as I'd said it I realised I could have phrased it better.
Guy: "There are no spare beds"
Hmmmm. What exactly did that mean?
Me: "Are you Abi's partner?"
I'm not quite thinking sensibly after a long day's soggy cycle...
all sensible conversational lines of 'please give me a warm bed' are evading me.
Guy: "No, I'm her housemate"
I got the feeling from the way he looked at me that he thought I was here to replace him like some pretender to the throne. It was getting weirder and weirder. For the love of God I just want to get out of these cold, wet skanky shorts.
He was going to work.
He did go to work.
I could sit on the veranda.
I sat.
....
There was a motel 4 miles away. I rang. They had space. They could accommodate my bike. It was only 2 stars but I was freezing my bum cheeks off sitting on the drive of an empty house.... why hadn't I left yet?
A car pulled up. It took all my efforts to move my rigor mortised legs into action and collision evasion.
Abigail!
There follows a lovely evening chatting with really bright shiny spirited person (am I allowed to say that without sounding like an old git?), who sorted me out with a mattress and Chaga tea (think decaff mushroom moca), local intel and even some contacts for my future stops!
Lovely.
Geoffrey, the French housemate, returned later and was happy with the WS explanation, which was nice since I was too tired to battle for the lodger throne.
To bed, to sleep - perchance to dream.Læs mere

RejsendeNot the best day. If you want a Canadian sim you could look at Public Mobile. Cheap plans (as far as Canada goes) and no contract it’s just month to month. I think it’s across Canada.

RejsendeCool, I'll take a look, thanks....I thought I'd get away with just a data SIM but it's not foolproof

RejsendeHey Rickster - just picked up this latest message. Blooming Norah, the Trans Canada Trail is pushing you to the limit. One day to the next is so unpredictable. I salute your continued grit, resolve and calm. Good on ya. Here’s to nicer weather, dry clothing, good sleep and better comms? Not really that much to ask of the TCT gods? 🤞
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- Dag 24
- torsdag den 25. maj 2023 kl. 20.02
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Højde: 200 m
CanadaLa Nativité-de-Marie46°16’45” N 74°43’56” W
Salvation station, amen.

Heading north west from Prévost and up towards Mont Blanc via some old rail road tracks repurposed after the trains that used to take first coal/timber, then decades later workers and tourists up to the ski slopes, were scrapped in the 50s when road, and road travel overtook in popularity.
The Route de Vert offers some beautiful scenery, great paved paths and old converted station houses, which is where I found myself yesterday evening, in Labelle.
The original plan was to head to a nearby WS host, Sylvain, but he messaged me to dissuade me due to the necessary diversion from the track and instead told me about this station and its free: camping, water, showers, toilet. Made even more perfect by a great restaurant and nearby supermarket. Wunderbar. Plus he said he'd come down for a chat. Nice.
It was great to have some company after a long and very quiet day - I get the opinion not many people travel so far north, and instead scoot straight across to Ottawa, well, that is apart from the power-assisted-cycling retirees which zoom past me now and again all wrapped up in winter-like gear despite the 25° temps.
Sylvain even brought a bottle and two glasses, so we enjoyed the setting sun and talked about the usual: bears, bike, routes, mosquitos, Nigel Farage and King Charles.
Lovely night.
I wishfully thought I might be able to replicate it tonight, here at Mont Laurier, but despite seeing free camping and showers on the map this morning, it's not to be. The old station house is boarded up. A few old drunks have taken up residence in the park benches, coughing and shouting at each other. The water refill post doesn't work and I find myself tucked away on a small patch of grass behind a church, hoping no one sees me, or minds me setting up camp here. I'd like to think this was a little Bear Grylls....but really I'm just turning into a tramp.
"All change"Læs mere

RejsendeSounds like a potential night from hell - derelict churchs, urban camping and grizzly tramps!! Tomorrow is another day! Onwards for a wash in Lake Superior?!
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- Dag 27
- søndag den 28. maj 2023 kl. 18.31
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Højde: 156 m
CanadaWright-Gracefield-Northfield46°5’36” N 76°3’11” W
CAPITAL morning old chap!

I survived hobonight!
Not even a racoon of disturbance was there...thankfully
Another 10 miles north towards Grand-Remous before decending 70 more through Aumond, Maniwaki and ending up, (after a rather long and roasting, but gratefully swim-full day), in Gracefields with Benoit and Odette's (WS hosts) outdoor heated pool, with an ice cold beer and dinner being cooked for me (it's a hard life). Bon. Tres bon.
The miles had somehow disappeared under my wheels and progress steamed along the railtrack so that before I knew it the capital was just a day away, (albeit a long day).
Come the next morning there was no time to lose. My plan of 86 miles in 26° heat on unpaved trails had been refined by Benoit so that it might be feasible, although this did mean highway 105 south, on a Sunday, when all the Ottawan second homeowners would be racing back to the city from their lakeside retreats... probably a bit worst for wear. I was told the hardshoulder would meander between 2metres of safe pleasure and 10cm of cliff face.
I tried to mentally meld the concepts of a strong sturdy grip on the handlebars with that of loose flexibility that might aid a post-collision emergency roll /response as I sailed through the air to my fate.
Traffic is big here. It is scary. Especially the multi-wheeled silent screechmarks on the road, or the thunderous indents of semi's wheels in the lay-by sand indicative of a momentary lapse in truck driver concentration.
I tried not to think of it, and peddled on, and before I knew it Ottawa was opening up before me and I was just a little sneaky beer and 10 miles away from meeting a friend of Jerome and Lisanne's who'd been asked if I could pitch in her garden
Hello Ontario, my lovely 4th province!Læs mere

RejsendeIn the name of all things holy, there is no stopping you, and the Steed, on your big Canadian conquest! You’ll be in Vancouver by the weekend at this rate! Perhaps keep pedalling all the way back to London (not via Ukraine though!) for the ultimate midlife-crisis antidote! Guaranteed to cure you of all future madnesses ! ‘Godspeed my liege’ (aptly from Shakespeare’s Richard II)! Haha 😆.

RejsendeWow Rick just looked at the atlas and very impressed by the speed you are travelling. Fan- bloody- tastic super son. Keep pedalling! 🥰😘 x
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- Dag 28
- mandag den 29. maj 2023 kl. 12.46
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Højde: 87 m
CanadaPatterson Creek East Park45°24’37” N 75°41’13” W
Ottawa's Rest Day

I've had the two most lovely days staying with Lisa, her folks Brian and Mary, and baby Reese in Ottawa - they've kindly opened their doors to me based on the weird friends of friends of random-people-met-in-parks which has made it even more special. I've been cooked for, tourist-guided, taxied, tent-fix-assisted and lots of other good stuff! Marvelous! I've even got a contact (Lisa's hubby Ash) in Thunder Bay further up the track to meet!
...
Rest day / city exploration day fell unfortunately on a Monday and it seems the top history museum and a couple of other places that I'd been hoping to visit were closed, but I had a good well-caffeined mooch around the capital, a peruse of the National Art Gallery and topped it off with a classic lazy tourist bus tour. Oh...also pap-snapped the Icelandic President Guðni Th. Jóhannesson who had motrocaded into the city for a wreath-laying thingy!
Rounded off the day by popping my "beaver tail" cherry, as you do,
(think chunky pancake with lashings of sugary toppings) - sugar stairway to heaven!
Considering some people suggested I skip Ottawa because it was boring I'm blummin glad I didn't.
...
Departure morning started badly with a broken tent pole, but with Brian's help we splinted it with lollipop sticks and Duck tape and it may yet survive.
Onwards in a south westerly directions intercepting bear tracks and a lovely guy called Dawoud who was on a tour back home...we might even meet up in Niagara On The Lake! Brill?Læs mere
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- Dag 29
- tirsdag den 30. maj 2023 kl. 18.51
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Højde: 138 m
CanadaGillies Corners45°0’8” N 76°5’34” W
Debbie Does Christmas

Had the honour of being Marc's first WS visitor...or so I thought but was pipped to the post by Paul, a Quebecois guy also riding E->W! Started off the conversation with
"Haha! Someone else stupid enough to go from East to West"
Paul returned a blank look.
(note to self... when trying to ingratiate yourself with new people don't start by slagging them off)
...
Marc was lovely, treated us like kings, and we three chatted happily over some delicious homemade food and ice cold larger.
Paul's Mrs - Debbie - has made every day Christmas Day in the basement!
Such fun!Læs mere
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- Dag 30
- onsdag den 31. maj 2023 kl. 08.12
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Højde: 129 m
CanadaSydenham44°24’39” N 76°35’40” W
Sydenham Mornings

Ontario .... 8 times larger than England, or larger than France and Spain combined if you prefer a European perspective...either way...pretty big. However big it was, today's destination - Sydenham - was lacking in campsites and WS hosts, and so another hobonight was on the cards.
It had been an easy 60mile ride from Marc's, although the trail was rather scraggy in places., and I got to the local "Foodland" to stock up. Made the mistake of quietly whispering to the checkout girl if she could direct me to the local fire station or park so that I could stealth camp, and she immediately shouted over to the other checkout peeps for their input...in front of the queues of people. I tried to look small, innocent and less trampy than normal as the directions came in and the Sydenhamites eyed me up and down suspiciously.
I had no need of the fire station in the end as I'd quickly found the perfect spot behind the library with relaxed outside chairs on a small patio to which the library's free WiFi even reached - bonus! All I had to do was wait till dusk, pitch and sleep. Well, that was the plan, until at the stroke of 8pm the library's automatic outdoor floodlights kicked in, making me instantly very visible to anyone driving by or taking an evening stroll. Bugger. I circled round the village, but it was now dark and difficult to find a good spot. By the time I found somewhere next to a running track it was pitch black. I couldn't tell which way up, or which way round, the fly sheet was. I discovered that the makeshift tent pole fix didn't live up to its name, meaning the tent looked drunk and slumped to one side. As my frustration and paranoia about being spotted grew I kept dodging behind the tent when a car passed and their lights swept over me. I tried a volley of exasperated expletives under my breath...but that didn't help.
This.
Wasn't.
Fun.
...
I think I got about 4 hours sleep in the end... In my half asleep head I'd decided I was on a school running track and if anybody reported a grumpy tramp swearing to himself on school grounds, I was likely to be pitchforked by an angry PTA mob.
Que 5am wake up, quick decamp and morning bath in Sydenham lake.
The swim helped relieve my foul mood. I'd found a public toilet block nearby, annoyingly locked for another 2 hours, but amazingly with a live outdoor plug. Whilst kit was charging I set about repairing my tent pole for the second time, (this time using the correct parts I'd bought exiting Ottawa) and munched on two left over squashed blueberry muffins. Until I heard a large truck roaring towards me at speed..... What in hobohell now?
A young couple jumped out and headed rapidly for me....they didn't look the PTA type.
False alarm. They were just the toilet block unlockers and cleaners. Fhew. We said Good Mornings and they set about mopping inside while I finished repairs outside.
After a while the sound of rhythmic and accelerating creaking coming from the cleaning cupboard told me they'd found something more fun to occupy themselves and I took that as my que to leave.
Note to self: nobody rushes to clean toilets.Læs mere
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- Dag 31
- torsdag den 1. juni 2023 kl. 12.14
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Højde: 97 m
CanadaBrighton44°2’32” N 77°44’13” W
Roofgoats of course

After she asked me why I was cycling cross-Canada, the face of the lady at the goat shop crinkled into laughter when I said I was working my way through my mid life crisis .."what is it with men and midlife crises!?" she exclaimed... "women don't have time for midlife crises, they just get on with it". Made me laugh and she gave me an extra scoop of medicinal raspberry ripple.
...
33°C + 91 miles = minor sunstroke
Bit spaced. Quite evening with Ray, Danny DeVito and Juno the dog in Brighton. More confidence damaging talk of Ontarian headwinds, mosquitoes, black flies and bears...Oh My.
No WS booked in for tomorrow's journey to Toronto, but a possible for Sunday, we shall see.
The scorching weather is due to break into a thunder storm at some point today - TF. Everyone says it's very unusual for this time of year, but like the Albertian (and now Nova Scotian) fires, it seems nowhere can escape climate change.
Mild surprise when I came across my first Canadian roundabout - they seem to prefer these bloody annoying Stop/Arrêt signs at crossroads which, similar to the UK, you must come to a complete stop at .... even if no one is visible. I rarely obey them, contrary to the mostly obedient Canadians - all that lost momentum horrifies me.Læs mere

RejsendeJuno actually looks bigger than Danny! Looks as though Ray likes big dogs and small men!? Today’s weather lesson: don’t be tempted to cycle across the Gobi or Sahara anytime soon!

Hey Rick good to see you're in one piece still the Ontario mosquitoes and black flies haven't nibbled you to death. I guess those head winds are good for something like keeping the bugs down a bit. Cheers mate keep pedaling ! [Simon + Bill]

RejsendeAll mid life crises can be solved with raspberry ripple. FACT. Glad you're still going for it!
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- Dag 33
- lørdag den 3. juni 2023 kl. 15.34
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Højde: 91 m
CanadaChinatown43°38’59” N 79°23’37” W
Toron(t)o

I decided to detour from the picturesque northerly TCT route that decended leisurely into Toronto and instead take the fast "Great Lakes Waterfront Trail" ... which for the first 10 miles really didn't live up to its name. It was hard not to graffiti "BS" on every proud sign I passed that declared the route and was at least a mile "inland" on a horrid highway. However, I didn't really care, Toronto was in my sights and Saturday night was buffed fresh from the gym, had ironed his hot pants, and was hot to trot baby!
I cruised into town to some classic dance tracks, weaved in and out of 6 lane highways, and surprised even myself at not being hit by a tram.
I'd thankfully managed to get a last minute WS host from my most reliable demographic....old touring retirees.
John and Debbie have this fantastic 110+ year old (really, really old for Canada) end of terrace property, ("row houses" as they can them here), in Cabbagetown. It's a beautiful neighbourhood; possibly one of the oldest surviving residential area in the country, whose community had sternly put their collective foot down against rampant redevelopment and engulfing cityscape in favour of homes not high-rises.
Toronto has a similar feeling to Montreal - its little brother up river - in the fact that it's a very grid-oriented city on the banks of the St Lawrence, and although it has some open spaces at the feet of the towerblocks, green parks (complete with large homeless community and obvious drugs and mental health issues), and a pretty harbour front, it didn't appear to have a definitive physical center to which the masses flocked...but there was definitely a noticeable underground pulse.
I headed to Kensington Market - not one particular place but a vibrant mishmash district of small traders, street food vendors, and stinky wafts of the hundreds of varieties of cannabis on sale. It's a good thing that my panniers run at 90% capacity, with only space for 1 or 2 day's food; shopping just isn't an option.
On the way down to the city, deep down some terrifyingly steep steps and into the Don River valley, I'd stopped at a park bench where a little dog called Courage bounded over closely followed by his owner. We both approached the bench at the same time so it was an odd stand-off type moment, but there was certainly room for two. An hour later and I was still nonstop chatting and laughing with this wonderful Ghanaian lady called Effia who in her spare time organised events for homeless women....we talked about a million BIG things, like why we were here, where we were going, how to be happy, etc, and when, towards the end, I asked her what I should do in Toronto, she said without hesitation: "Go Clubbing! You need to dance! Dance in Toronto!"
She'd obviously never seen me dance. There may even be bylaws against such travesties, but Effia's energy and insistence was undeniable. After a month of making my own decisions it was actually quite a relief; I had my orders.
🫤Læs mere
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- Dag 37
- onsdag den 7. juni 2023 kl. 17.28
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Højde: 179 m
CanadaHumberstone42°53’27” N 79°15’38” W
Heading for a Fall(s)

I thought a drag show in Toronto's "Crews & Tangos", would set me up for some Sat night giggles, but with 3 hen parties in it by 8pm...I decided against it in favour of "Woody's & Sailors". It seems Toronto's alternative scene hasn't been immune to the global pain of Covid and like most cities has had to adapt for survival.
Woody's was a big place, multiple bars, and a mixed 'family' atmosphere of twinks, otters, bears and drag queens. Fun night; not much dancing though (sorry Effia!), but I'd decided returning to my WS host worst for wear seemed a bit rude.
...
After a couple of great nights in what would be my last big city for over a thousand miles, I packed up and, (against my inner compass), headed east - I couldn't come all this way and miss Niagara Falls.
Blocking out the bus-loads of tourists, the casinos, the Irish bars and the endless ker-ching of enterprises clinging to her coattails, Niagara was thunderously awesome; I took the obligatory photos, doffed my helmet to her, and peddled on.
Days passed in a whirlwind of WS hosts as I zoomed first through Hamilton, stopping to swim in Lake Ontario and soak up the sun beneath the huge electricity pylons that stride unfittingly down the beach. I waved across the river at the Americans in Buffalo prior to spinning on to Fort Eiri and Port Colbourne before finally heading westbound, up to Brantford, Elmira and Kincardine.
Full steam ahead.
..
Stopped in Cambridge for lunch and started building my usual ham and cheese wraps on a park bench by the river when an old guy circled me twice pretending not to look directly over. Without invitation he sat himself down and, in the tone of a disapproving parent weary at their son's exploits, said *Where you going now then?". There followed an odd exchange of words... more of an interview than a conversation. I'm becoming happy to talk to anyone these days, but this was a little creepy.
For anyone who's never toured on a bike, I should explain the unbelievable parallel universe that opens up when you arrive on, or are by, a bike stacked with panniers, water bottles, fuel containers and navigation equipment. Through your bike you become some sort of social magnet; people flock to you, eager to find out how this curious-looking nomad escaped the everyday to find themself on some kind of mysterious quest, and they can't resist but ask.
This guy was different. It felt like, were I to accept an open-topped drink from him I might wake up in a pit in his basement being told "it puts the lotion on its skin or else it gets the hose again". Lunchtime was over. I packed up and bid farewell to him and his perfectly painted toenails.
As I cycled out of town, I was overtaken by a packed yellow school bus and a child yelled out the window to me "Your Mom!"
Cambridge ... characterfulLæs mere

RejsendeYou might just have had a rare (one-sided) conversation and lucky escape from Canada’s now infamous Cambridge “painted toe-nails” Kidnapper. Apparently he is drawn to Ham and Cheese wraps being lovingly prepared on Park Benches. Fortunately he has never abducted anyone, but is wanted in connection with countless H&C Wrap thefts! That was lucky! I went to Niagara about 20 yrs ago when I was 8! Can’t remember a single thing, so was glad to be vicariously reliving the experience via your blog! Good on ya Mister! Onwards!

RejsendeHahah I like it...."The Painted-Toenail Killer"...not to be confused with "The Painted Toenail Killer" which is really good for fungal infections.
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- Dag 40
- lørdag den 10. juni 2023 kl. 08.54
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Højde: 363 m
CanadaElmira43°36’5” N 80°33’49” W
First contact

From Hamilton the TCT wends north of Toronto to Barrie then westward along Lake Huron's northern shores; I had other plans. I'd got wind of an alternative route cutting through the Bruce Peninsula and up to Tobermory where it should be possible to get a ferry across the Georgian Bay - a more direct and allegedly prettier path, not to mention all the fun of a ferry. Sign me up shipmate.
A lunchtime search of Warm Showers (WS) served me up a couple of lovelies in the form of David & Colleen in Elmira; great welcome, lush dinner, fun chat and Dave produced some spare tent poles - winner. Added to that they knew another Manc further up my route in Kincardine whom I should definitely meet and would surely put me up for the night - a call was made and after promising to bring dessert I had a bed for the next day too! I'm finding that there are few things that rival the comfort of knowing where I'm going to sleep next.
...
I now know that Waterloo Region is home to the largest population of Old Order Mennonites in Canada, however when I cycled into Elmira I first mistook these old-fashioned-clothes-wearing people for Quakers.
Like most religions/faiths, Mennonites vary in their adherence to official doctrine, but most practice a lifestyle without certain elements of modern technology and hold to traditional theological distinctives like wearing plain dress (even to the point of shunning the humble zip!). I know I shouldn't have stolen some photos/vids without asking but I did wave over beforehand (there goes the Prime Directive!), and it was happily returned by the guy hanging off the farming equipment together with a warm smile.
...
The early morning saw us all cycle off together as my hosts were due to join a charity cycle ride. It was again a pleasant novelty to cycle with others for the first time since Brent and Anguite saw me off from Tidnish in Nova Scotia last month, then Dawoud a few weeks ago. It's not that I'm lonely....I seem to be more than happy to occupy myself with memories, daydreams, chitchat and laughter (probably to the raised eyebrows of passing motorists/pedestrians), but it'd be nice to bump into someone else traveling in the same direction for more than an hour.
Next stop antique biking fanatic Glen and his "museum" - can't wait!Læs mere

RejsendeWowser - from horse drawn buggies and farm ploughs, to bikes that have wooden rims - it feels like an early episode of Little House on the Prairie! Loving your symbolic nod to the Waterloo Region, by way of a breakfast of, none other than, Quaker Oats! Did you know that Judi Dench and James Dean are / were Quakers? No, neither did I! Anyways what a fascinating glimpse into their (Mennonite) wonderful way of living. And very much in marked contrast to Toronto’s Woody’s & Sailors scene! 😆. Onwards and good on ya!

RejsendeWow Rick. Some more fascinating pics. Glad to say son you're looking really well. This nomadic lifestyle seems to be bringing out the best in ya! Go west young man or rather middle aged man! 😁 😘xx
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- Dag 41
- søndag den 11. juni 2023 kl. 15.07
- 🌧 15 °C
- Højde: 204 m
CanadaKincardine44°10’39” N 81°38’6” W
80 going on 20

Guided personal tour of Huron's amazing bicycle museum by its also amazing curator, 12 book author, artist, emeritus proff. at York, Toronto, and my WS host for the evening - Glen!
https://www.huronbicyclemuseum.com/
Nothing seems to stop this octogenarian as he insisted on cycling off with me in the morning on a 20mile round trip in the rain!
Top manLæs mere
Rejsende
Some kids never grow up! I remember your train set 30+ years ago! Running the rails with iron to get the electricity better connected between the tracks
RejsendeAhh and Old Smokey Joe the engine! ♥️
RejsendeOh yeah, topping it up with the oil or whatever it was. Happy Days!