• Robin Abroad
  • Robin Abroad

Camino del Norte… cont’d

I’m returning h to the Camino del Norte! Back to Santander, where Kate and I ended the Norte portion of our 2018 Camino. I’ll spend 10 days walking solo to Oviedo. I absolutely love the Norte and am excited to get back to that stunning coastline. Read more
  • Trip start
    June 16, 2024
  • Bilbao

    June 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    I arrived this evening, found my bus, found my stop (even more important!) and made my way to the LaTroupe Hostel. This town is so beautiful! I’m just in awe… lovely lanes among old buildings and giant green trees. People are walking everywhere, as is so common in Europe. You just blend into this river of cultures. Flowers on all the circles and in the parks. Birds calling in the trees.

    I have such a short time here. I have a bus to catch at 10:00 tomorrow morning, so will have a quick breakfast and leave around 9:00 to walk to the bus station. I could take the metro, but I want to see as much of the city as I can before I head to Santander. I visited the riverfront and the Guggenheim Museum the last time I was here, thankfully.

    Now time to walk back to my nice hostel and wonderful bottom bunk!
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  • Santander

    June 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I made it to Santander this morning by bus! I ended up taking the Metro to the bus station, an easy three stops. So far, I’m really proud of my navigation skills. I am finally comfortable figuring out trains and buses in a foreign country! The bus ride to Santander was sweet, as we passed all the coastline that Kate and I walked six years ago, from Castro Urdiales to the ferry ride from Somo to Santander. That took us a week. I made the journey by bus in an hour and a half!

    Have had three cafe con leches today 😄!

    I walked from the city out to the Palacio de Magdalena, a stunning palace at the end of the peninsula. (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palacio_de_la_M…). I can’t get into my hostel until 5pm, so this was a great activity for the day! A beautiful walk along the bay. I’m about to head back now. What a relaxing day.
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  • Liencres

    June 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was my first real walking day. It wasn’t on the official Camino and proved to be more adventurous than I expected! I found an alternate route that follows the coast out of Santander instead of the much shorter road-walking Camino that so many have said to avoid. Thankfully, I had a live gps map that showed me the way. But…! The path wasn’t always a path at all, just some bushwhacking in a few places, hovering above the towering costal cliffs.

    Still, the day was spectacular and I made it to my hotel room in Liencres, a small town that overlooks the sea. I’m so grateful to have a real bed in a private room. With air conditioning! It will be hostels for most of the rest of the trip, so I’ll enjoy this respite while I can. I took my dirty clothes to the lavenderia, so all is clean and ready for a few more days. I’ll be on the official Camino route after tomorrow and am ready to follow those yellow arrows!
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  • Santillana del Mar

    June 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    My Garmin says I walked 19 miles today! It was about a 14.5 mile walk from Liencres to my evening’s rest in Santillana Del Mar. I’m staying at a lovely former convent, now a hostel. I find convents to almost always be the best because the architecture, gardens, and rooms are classic and cozy. I have hit the jackpot tonight with a one-bunkbed room that I have all to myself. I can hardly believe it. The room with dinner and breakfast cost only 30€. Traveling on foot can be very thrifty!

    After getting settled at the hostel, I had time to walk some extra distance to the Caves of Altamira, where some of the earliest cave paintings were discovered in 1974. I’ve always wanted to see them, and here they are, walking distance away!

    I ate my first group meal of the trip with a room full of fellow walkers tonight. Our table had a variety of folks, including a woman from near London and four Americans. After dinner, I spoke with an English woman closer to my age who is walking a portion of the Norte. It’s fun to meet new people. Maybe I’ll see some of them walking tomorrow. I still love walking alone and wonder how it will be to share parts of the day with some newfound friends.
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  • Comillas

    June 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I tracked 18 miles yesterday. I walked about 14 from Santillana Del Mar to Comillas. Here in Comillas, a stroll around town, to the supermarket, and along the beach added four more. Somehow, my legs feel great, not tired at all.

    I dipped my toes in a couple of beaches today.
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  • Comillas, Part Two

    June 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I decided to take today off as a rest day and am staying another night in Comillas. Turns out the hostel reservation I made for the next town was for the wrong date (yesterday). D’oh! I didn’t have a place reserved in San Vicente de la Barquera tonight after all! That means I’ll walk straight through to Colombres tomorrow - an 18-mile distance. I feel like I’m up for it, and the weather is comfortably cool in the 60’s with clouds. I plan to get a relatively early start.

    Tomorrow is also Sunday, the confounding day that everything is closed! So I went to the supermarket today and bought enough food to get me through tomorrow even if I don’t find a place to eat. It adds weight to my pack, but it’s worth it! My sweet little pension room here overlooks the beach, so it’s a very nice place to take a break.
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  • Colombres

    June 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    I got an early start this morning - 7:30. I knew it was a longer day, and it felt good to be up and at ‘em. There was no one out at that time on a Sunday morning, so it was very quiet and peaceful. There was a light rain too, so my pack and I wore our rain jackets. The mist continued on and off throughout the day and it never got hot.

    18.5 miles between cities today. Tomorrow is a shorter 14-miler to Llanes. I’ve walked four out of the eight stages on my route and more than half the distance. So far, I’ve gone 96km, or 60 miles. Cool!
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  • Llanes

    June 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I think my official distance today was around 14 miles, but my Garmin tells me I walked 18. This is probably because I missed some arrows and went on a few detours, lol. I found some great paths that diverged from the roads and highways that my map was giving me! It was a gorgeous coastal walk with cliffs, forest, and beaches. All the best that the Norte has to offer.Read more

  • Ribadesella

    June 26, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    This is a pretty town that straddles two sides of the river and lies next to the coastline. Today’s walk was relatively short, 8 miles officially. But true to form, I added miles by not paying close attention to directions. I had the wrong address for the hotel, and without really checking, I walked across the bridge and down a road for about 1.5 miles before realizing it was not right. This was at the end of my day, and I had planned my lunch break so I could arrive at my check in time of 3.00. Foiled! I had to trudge all the way back to the bridge and cross, then walk through town in the opposite direction, then - to my utter disgust and dismay - up a never ending line of stairs to my hotel high above the town. It was a long day after all! Finished off with a delicious pizza and beer. Now, I’m listening to a lovely soft rain outside.

    I failed to post yesterday from Nueva, but the walk was quite pretty with a nice café on a sweet beach. My best morning coffee yet. Nueva was a small unexciting town. I had a comfortable room in a Pensión, but probably should have planned to walk to Ribadesella in one day! Next stop, Colunga.
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  • Colunga

    June 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I’ve reached my final walking destination - Colunga! It’s a small town a bit inland, so no water nearby. I took my last beach walk yesterday, one of the most peaceful of the trip. I just wanted some solitude and cold water on my feet, feeling the days and the weight of walking in my tired bones. I’ve felt incredibly strong and positive throughout the trip! A head and chest cold now have me a bit worn down, and it’s good to be resting in a private room in my pension. I can’t figure out how I got sick since my walk and almost all lodging has been solitary. Maybe it was the one night at the hostel in Llanes four days ago? Even then, I was never in a group of people. 🙁

    I’ve totaled my miles for the last 10 days… 127 from Santander to Colunga. That’s a proud accomplishment for me. I had maps to help, and also forged my own route at times. There were many hills! Some were brutally steep. The weather has been excellent and the views spectacular.

    It all changes today as I try to find a bus to take me to Oviedo for a three day rest and sightseeing in this ancient city. Rain is in the forecast, so the timing is perfect.

    I’ll have to ruminate over the highs and lows of this Camino. Really, they are all highs, except for this darn cold and cough. Maybe I’ll list favorite cities, towns, beaches, and forests. Even though I walked alone, I met some nice people along the way. This solo adventure has been good for my soul ❤️
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  • Oviedo - Day 1

    June 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    No walking today, other than touring around towns. I left Colunga by bus after my TWO breakfasts! It was rainy and cool, and I hadn’t realized how hungry I was after just having yogurt and a 2-day old croissant for dinner last night. 🙄

    Now I’m in my pension in Oviedo for night one. I’ll move to a real apartment tomorrow to finish off my trip. It’s supposed to rain tomorrow, but I still might venture out to walk the first stage of the Primitivo, just because I miss the walking.

    Here’s my FB post from this afternoon. I was quite overcome by feelings about this Camino and my place in it.

    Camino magic. I was on the bus just arriving in Villaviciosa where I had to make a bus connection to Oviedo, and I had just translated the message I saw yesterday. The first bus was 30 minutes late, so I didn’t know if I would even make it in time. I got off the first bus and the next one was pulling away, two minutes after the scheduled departure. I waved at the driver and he stopped for me. Now I’m on the bus to Oviedo feeling very watched over. ❤️

    “Along the way there is a magical world that you do not see, it is the protective guardian that will guide you and await you, giving you luck.”
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  • Oviedo - Day 2

    June 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    I guess it’s really day three in Oviedo since I arrived here on the bus two days ago. My first night in the pension was good. I felt pretty sick with the cold so went out just for quick pintxos and a beer and then went back to rest. Yesterday, I was able to check into my cute comfy apartment at 2:00 and again didn’t feel compelled to leave . 🙂 I am enjoying the down time and quiet. Still, I’ve walked a good deal around the center of Oviedo, and the city has grown on me. It’s completely walker friendly. Cars stop for you without hesitation at crossings. People of all ages are walking everywhere and there are restaurants, cafes, and pastry shops galore! Very clean with beautiful eras of architecture and spectacular parks.

    Tomorrow I catch the train to Madrid, about 3.5 hours. I’ll be at a hostel close to the airport. Not sure how much energy I’ll have to go into the city. But I have to at least see a little of it! Dinner out, at least. It’s been a great trip. Now the tiredness sets in!
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  • Train to Madrid

    July 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I’m at the station waiting for the train to arrive any minute. In about 4 hours, I’ll be in Madrid! Not sure if I’ll tour the city at all before making my way to my hostel by the airport. Am I up for more walking and bussing around a strange city??

    Later in the day: Wow what a day! More trains than I want to remember. Snafu with my Madrid arrival cost me an additional 3 hours of train time (missed the station and had to backtrack an hour, catching another train in the opposite direction to get back 😩). Finally got to Madrid at 7pm and wanted to wander a bit to at least feel like I saw some of it. It’s beautiful, as I find all Spanish cities to be! I found a ramen place and ate a yummy dinner, then had to navigate a horrific maze of local trains for about an hour to get out to my hostel, with a 20 minute walk from the final station. But god, I do love traveling! Always an adventure and something new to learn!.

    I’ll be up and out in the morning, walking about a mile to the airport. It’s closeby and easy to walk to. An appropriate end to this fabulous trip.
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  • Madrid Airport

    July 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    It’s a beautiful morning! I was up early at the hostel and had time to stop for a final cafe con leche in the little town of Barajas before walking to the airport. It’s an easy walk, not very scenic, but it was great to finish off my trip by walking. Now, sitting at the terminal, I have a couple of hours to wait. Plus the flight is delayed by half an hour. 🙄

    Waiting is part of traveling. It’s going to be a very long day! Home to Colorado ☺️
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    Trip end
    July 2, 2024