Day 17/6 Oliveira de Madeira to Grijo

When we checked into our hotel yesterday afternoon, we were pleased to learn that it was four star rated AND breakfast was included in the room rate.

As a result, The Core Four took full advantage of the "free" food and, by the time we completed our Uber ride, didn't arrive back in Sao Joao de Madeira to start our walk until 8:45.

The day started out at 18 degrees and slowly crept up to 27 by the time we arrived at our destination in Grijo. The walk today had an elevation gain of 268 meters, considerably less than yesterday, and a distance of just 19.69 kms. In pilgrim terms: a relatively easy day.

We spent most of the day walking through residential neighborhoods, but, to add some spice to our trek, on our first rest break at about 7kms, the cafe owner offered us some delicious cinnamon toast to go with our coffee.

We also had various periods following the ancient Roman road, which somehow always brings me to reflect on how many others have trodden these same cobbles as I.

At one point, we came across a group of bikers who were leaving their mark on a metal wall simply by writing on it with a finger, and I felt obliged to do the same.

We arrived in Grijo shortly after 1:00 and took an Uber into Porto so that we can enjoy the charms she has to offer while we overnight here today and tomorrow.

One of these charms that had Brenda salivating all day was a gluten-free bakery that offers GF Pastel de Nata. However, when we arrived at the shop, there were no Pasteles to be found! Forrunately, we were told a fresh batch would be ready within the hour, so we decided to go for an early dinner. Of course, dining in Europe before 7:00 is out if the question and two vegan restaurants we tried to patronize informed us they were closed until 7:00

We ended up dining in the first place we found that offered a vegetarian burger and some typically delicious fries before returning to the GF bakery for Brenda's dessert. Although the crust didn't live up to the standard puff-pastry crust, Brenda thoroughly enjoyed the treat.

We capped off our evening with a round of drinks on an outdoor patio with Anita and Ernie.

Tomorrow we pick up where we left off in Grijo and will enjoy one more night in Porto before moving onward.Read more