Stage 18: Vetralla to Capranica

16.4 kilometers
Elevation gain/loss: 464m/393m
Steps: 21,128
Total distance traveled: 339.8 km
Distance to Rome: 70.1 km

Early October in Italy. The mornings are getting cooler, sunrise is getting later by the day, and La Francigena keeps providing us with fascinating discoveries.

To sum up today's hike in one word: Trees.
Majestic oaks, mature hazelnut trees, Italian Stone Pine trees, olive trees, and chestnut trees accompanied us the entire length of our 16.5 kilometer hike today.

Brenda and I were astounded not only by the quantity of hazelnut groves along this path, but also by the number of hazelnuts lying uncollected and rotting on the ground. This area is clearly the Hazelnut capital of Italy as once we arrived in town, hazelnuts, and chestnuts were for sale everywhere. Certainly, a large portion of this production goes into the jars of Nutella we find everywhere in the world.

I have never seen such stately and majestic oak trees as those we came across midway into our day. I will often stop and admire nature when I'm walking around Vancouver, but I don't ever recall stopping dead in my tracks in admiration of the beauty of a tree. That is exactly what happened today. While walking through an oak grove, one tree seemed to jump out and scream, "Look at me!" And I did. My jaw dropped, my gait stopped and I said to Brenda, "Oh my God, look at this". The roots at the base of the trunk were partially exposed, almost daring anyone to try to knock it down. The lower trunk was entirely enclosed in a blanket of vines, happily co-existing with their host. Immense branches reached out in all directions, shading all below from the rays of the sun. And the ground below was covered in acorns, all hoping to sprout, and one day grow to be as imposing as their father.

Out of nowhere, a couple of ancient towers appeared before us. Known as Le Torri d'Orlando these funerary monuments date to the first century AD. The name derives from the legend of Orlando (Roland), a paladin of Charlemagne, who was said to have rested with his companions under the large oaks in the area.

Towards the end of the trail, we were treated to some ubiquitous Italian stone pines before we exited onto the road that led us down to the pretty little town of Capricana.Read more