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- Dag 1
- vrijdag 13 december 2019 om 10:44
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Hoogte: 43 m
CanadaAbbotsford International Airport49°1’22” N 122°22’48” W
¡Arriba, Arriba!

After a really lovely autumn season, the cool, gray and wet weather that is Vancouver's winter crept into town this week. It's time for us to get outta Dodge!
We typically like to winter in Thailand, but with the long travel times, jet lag and mosquitos that love to feast on Brenda, we've been looking for a more idyllic getaway spot.
Earlier this year we cruised out of San Diego down the Mexican Pacific coast, stopping in Cabo, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. Cabo left us cold and felt like any of a thousand other resort areas that has been over developed to the point of losing all traces of its heritage.
Puerto Vallarta was better, offering us a taste of Mexico, but was still too touristy for our tastes.
Situated almost right in the middle of those two ports was Mazatlan, and just like Baby Bear's bed, we found this charming city to be just right.
During our brief shore excursion we learned that there are many Canadian expats (mostly from Alberta) living there. All of them that we spoke with had nothing but good things to say about the city.
When we got back to Canada we began researching flights to Mazatlan and learned that the majority of them out of YVR had a stopover in Edmonton or Calgary. However, discount airline, Swoop, offers direct flights from Abbotsford for literally half the price of a Westjet flight from YVR.
Our very kind neighbor, Jennifer, got up early and drove the one hour and fifteen minutes to bring us to the terminal in Abbotsford for our 11:15 flight.
We've flown no-frills airlines before in Europe and Asia and will soon find out how Swoop compares to the others.
As I sit here in Abbotsford waiting for our plane to depart, the westher outside is 6°C with drizzle. When we arrive in Mazatlan tjis afternoon it will be 24°C with an overnight low of 18°.
Tomorrow morning there is the weekly organic market at Plazuela Zaragoza, an eight minute walk from our accommodations, where we plan to stock up on oodles of fresh fruits and veggies to fill our larder.
And who knows, maybe after that we'll hit the beach.
Ain't life grand?Meer informatie
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- Dag 2
- zaterdag 14 december 2019 om 18:59
- 🌙 23 °C
- Hoogte: 13 m
MexicoCentro Histórico, Mazatlan23°12’19” N 106°25’1” W
¿Hablas Español?

For 1305 consecutive days I have religiously completed at least one Spanish lesson on the Duolingo app. So, naturally, I was quite anxious to test out my finely honed language skills in a Spanish speaking country.
We landed in Mazatlan at just after 5:00PM local time and, dropped off our luggage at our Airbnb at about 6:00. We couldn’t locate the wifi code in our apartment, which made getting a local SIM card for our phones our first order of business. We had researched the best plans for expats before we left Canada, so we knew exactly what we wanted and even where to get it. Or so we thought.
We walked into the closest Oxxo convenience store (a Mexican 7/11) and I confidently asked for two Telcel SIM cards and the 200 peso telecom package. The clerk replied with what sounded to me like, “nonovendemostarjetasSIMaquí, tienesquecomprarloenotrolugaryluegoregresasaquíyte venderemoselpaquetequedeseas.”
Have you ever noticed how the contestants on TV game shows seem to get stupider and tend to choke as the pressure mounts? That was exactly how I felt. In response to the clerk, I blinked a couple of times, picked my jaw off the floor and could only manage to blurt out,”Errr.......ok, gracias.”
In the end, after visiting several stores, we were finally able to acquire what we needed and get our phones connected to the network we wanted.
In the process I learned that 1305 consecutive days studying Spanish on Duolingo did not really prepare me for real world interaction in my third language. But I am a very stubborn old goat and I am intent on being comfortable conversing in Spanish by the time we leave Mexico in March.
Hasta la vista, baby!Meer informatie
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- Dag 3
- zondag 15 december 2019
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Hoogte: 10 m
MexicoBahía Olas Altas23°11’42” N 106°25’21” W
Vegan in Mazatlan

On our first night in Mazatlan, we went to La Ruta Vegana, the best vegan restaurant in Mazatlan... well, OK, the "only" vegan restaurant in Mazatlan but it nonetheless deserves the accolade that "best" conveys.
Roch ordered a plate of 3 quesadillas and I ordered a couple of tacos along with an order of crispy potato wedges to share. The only thing lacking was a good bottle of Dos XX. The restaurant doesn't serve alcohol so we had to settle for non-alcoholized beer which was surprisingly satisfying with our meal. Our dinner altogether was a mere $18.11 and we left the restaurant thinking, we gotta come back to this place...
... and indeed we did go back the very next day. We didn't realize that La Ruta Vegana was the only vegan restaurant in Mazatlan until we went to Bliss Tienda Vegana which we thought was a cafe as well as vegan store. Nope, it was just a small vegan store so we happily went back to La Ruta Vegana.
This time I ordered the quesadillas and Roch ordered "Pozole", a Mexican soup typically made with hominy (processed corn with the germ removed) and pork. The thick soup is seasoned with a combination of spices and garnished with radishes, shallots, shredded cabbage, limes and tortilla chips. We'll never know for sure if the vegan version that Roch had was as good as a traditional meat version. All I can say is, there wasn't a drop of soup left when it came time to pay for the meal.
The owner of La Ruta Vegana told us that there were a few other vegan restaurants in Mazatlan but they have consequently closed. How odd, when everywhere else we've travel to has seen an increase in the number of vegan establishment in light of the plant-based revolution. La Ruta Vegana will be celebrating its 5th anniversary next week, and we have every intention in joining in on their celebration.
Although dining out here is a challenge, the local markets offer a plethora of beautiful fruits and veggies. They even sell large packages of trimmed and diced mixed vegetables that is made into soup. In fact, that's what we had for dinner last night. Strangely, however, Sinaloa province is reputed to be the mango capital of Mexico (and home to most cartels), but we've rarely sen any. Those we did find were expensive even by Canadian standards.
On the other hand, papayas and pineapples are plentiful and succulent, so we can't complain too much.Meer informatie
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- Dag 4
- maandag 16 december 2019 om 07:15
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Hoogte: 9 m
MexicoBahía Olas Altas23°11’42” N 106°25’21” W
Airbnb Nb Nb

AIR BNB
For most of our travel, Brenda and I book our accommodations through Airbnb and we have, for the most part, been very happy with our lodging and with the service provided by Airbnb.
In June, when we were booking our Mazatlan stay, we were already a little late to get the choicest spots in our desired location. We figured that our options would only diminish as we got closer to tourist season, so we booked our entire 85 day stay at a listing in Centro, Mazatlan's historic area.
Before we arrived we had several email exchanges with the host, who was always responsive and helpful. As we were uncertain of our ETA she left the keys for us in a lockbox at the entrance door.
By the time we arrived night had fallen, but we couldn't initially get the lights to turn on. There was an overwhelming chemical smell in the apartment that I thought might be insecticide. We couldn't find the wifi address or password to contact the host. The last straw was the bathroom layout. When we opened the door we realized the shower stall and toilet shared the same space, which we've seen before in Europe. However, in this case, one had to go through the shower area to get to the toilet. In other words, if we had to use the toilet after we had showered on the morning, we had to walk over the wet floor.
Things were not going well.
After we got our phones working, we contacted the host and told her we could not stay under these conditions, particularly since we were scheduled to be here for three months. She came and met us the following morning and agreed to let is out of the contract with no penalty, which was very nice of her.
NB
In the interim, Brenda and I had been scrambling to find alternative accommodations, but as we suspected, picking were pretty slim. Brenda found a place in the relatively upscale Machado area, but it was already booked from December 24 through January 3. We decided to book it for all the available dates through March 6 and moved in here for the first part of our stay to December 24.
NB
So what are we to do over Christmas and New Year's? Brenda has generously invited me to spend the holidays and my birthday with her in Mexico City until January 4. We've heard there's a booming vegan culture there and were excited to try it out.
Our hosts at our Machado Airbnb have agreed to hold the bulk of our luggage while we're in Mexico City so we can just travel with our carry ons.
So that's it. After our European trip where we were packing and unpacking continuously, we were looking forward to arriving here, unpacking only once and repacking when we returned to Vancouver. Sometimes the best laid plans find a way to go awry.Meer informatie
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- Dag 4
- maandag 16 december 2019 om 12:00
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Hoogte: 10 m
MexicoPueblo Nuevo23°14’39” N 106°25’25” W
Comida China

In light of the fact that there is only one vegan restaurant in Mazatlan, we knew that most of our meals would be eaten at home. Our Airbnb unfortunately only had one pot and one fry pan for cooking, and the fry pan had been pretty much fried to death. Luckily, our Airbnb host who is very kind agreed to pay us back if we wanted to purchase a new pan. We therefore decided to take a long walk (7 kms) to the Gran Plaza, a large shopping mall purporting a wide range of stores, a Cinepolis, and a big American style gym.
Even though we walked for well over an hour, the lengthy walk along the seashore went by very quickly. The salt air, the cool breeze tempering the hot sun and, of course, the magnificent scenery all combined to seemingly shorten the kilometres.
The Gran Plaza was indeed large but most of the stores sold only clothing or shoes. We decided therefore to continue an additional 2.5 kms to Walmart but before setting out, we decided to try our luck at the food court for lunch.
The world over, wherever we've travelled, we always see Chinese food and Italian pizza. This was true for the food court at the Gran Plaza as well. And since most of the restaurants in the food court were meat and seafood centric, we were left with few dining options. We decided to give one of the Chinese food stalls a try so Roch approached one of the food staff at Comida China and asked if they had anything without meat. The young lady answered no, but if we wanted to order any of their dishes, they would make it without meat especially for us. Can you imagine getting that kind of service in a food court in Canada? We both ordered the broccoli & veggie stirfry which came accompanied with fried rice, noodles, or both. We waited a couple of minutes and were presented with 2 heaping platefuls of freshly prepped food for just under $10 CAD total.
Fortified with lunch, we continued onwards to Walmart and found an inexpensive set of pots and pans, then bravely ventured the local bus system and found a bus that took us 2 blocks from home.Meer informatie

Roch PelletierYes, the first few days in a new long term staycation spot are always a little hectic. Today we hit up another vegan resto on the other side of town and made dental appointments. $28.00 for a teeth cleaning here!
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- Dag 6
- woensdag 18 december 2019 om 18:00
- 🌙 23 °C
- Hoogte: 6 m
MexicoBahía Puerto Viejo23°13’50” N 106°26’0” W
Malécon de Mazatlan

When we briefly visited Mazatlan last February, we were struck by the charm and authenticity of the old city and the beauty and attraction of El Malécon. “The Boardwalk” is the English translation of El Mélacon, but Mazatlan’s version is like no other. First of all, there are no boards to be seen anywhere. It is a wide concrete and paving stone walkway that runs twenty one kilometers along the seashore, from the southern tip of the old town all the way to the touristy the Golden Zone and beyond. There is a separate bike path alongside the pedestrian path where you can ride one of Mazatlan’s bike share two wheelers.
There are several statues and sculptures that celebrate the ocean and others that commemorate great musicians born here. There are fishermen selling their catch of the day, an endless array of restaurants and bars, and hawkers selling hats, sunglasses, jewelry and the ubiquitous souvenir knick-knacks.
But the big attraction for us is the ability to run along the shore, with the omnipresent sea breeze providing refreshing coolness, the sound of the surf providing the soundtrack and the seabirds singing harmony. The Mélacon is almost completely flat and, early in the morning, is teeming with many runners getting in their daily mileage fix, however, the path is so wide, one never feels crowded, rushed or delayed by other joggers.
Last, but not least, is the scenery. The sandy beach seemingly goes on forever and the view of the western horizon is interrupted only by the handful of islands that rise out of the sea. Night falls quite early here, and the sunsets seen from the Mélacon are nothing short of breathtaking.
All in all, Brenda and I will have no trouble spending the rest of the winter here.Meer informatie
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- Dag 9
- zaterdag 21 december 2019 om 18:00
- 🌙 24 °C
- Hoogte: 6 m
MexicoPueblo Nuevo23°14’11” N 106°25’57” W
¡Beisbol!

On a warm June night in 1969 Montreal, my sister, Dena, invited me to my first major league ball game at Jarry Park. The game pitted the upstart hometown Expos against the powerful Pittsburg Pirates, led by future Hall of Famers Willie Stargell, Roberto Clemente and Bill Mazerowski. For me, it was love at first pitch. From that night on, and until their demise in 2004, I followed Nos Amours religiously.
I no longer keep up with MLB as much anymore, but my love of the game has never diminished.
On late Saturday afternoon, Brenda and I made our way to Teodoro Mariscal Stadium to watch the Mazatlan Venados take on the Jalisco Charros in the second of a three game series. Yup, it’s late December and they’re still playing baseball here!
We arrived at the stadium at about 5:40, twenty minutes before game time and had time to check out what kind of snacks Mexicans eat at the old ball game. Hot dogs have been replaced with chunks of sausage smothered in a variety of sauces, a large cone of fries, smothered in more sauces, can be had for 95 pesos (about $7.00 CDN). The Mexicans seem to love everything smothered in sauces and, of course with a squeeze or two of lime juice. We watched a woman order what looked like a bag of taco chips. The bag was opened, poured into a big styrofoam cup, topped with several sauces, covered with another styrofoam cup and shaken like a martini before being handed to the woman. Pizzas, tacos, peanuts, candy floss... everything can be ordered from the vendors roaming the stands if you're too lazy to go catch it from the stands.
And of course, what would a ball game be without cerveza? There were several stands offering different brands of beer, from Michelob to the local Pacifico, but strangely, only one of them had customers, so many, in fact a line had formed. Like any good beer swilling sheep, I waited my turn in the queue and was rewarded with two bottles of Pacifico poured into a jumbo glass for the princely sum of 30 pesos ($2.10 CDN)! We don't know if this was a pre-game happy-hour special, but the same two beers in the stands during the game cost 60 pesos.
The stadium was originally built in 1962 and was. completely renovated in 2018 with an expanded capacity of 16,000. It is quite beautiful with comfortable seats and a natural turf playing field.
The Venados are part of the Pacific Mexixam League and, at the start of the game, were sitting in eighth place of a ten team division.
Their opponents were in second place.
There are only forty games in the season, which starts in mid-October and ends December 30.
On this night, the Venados' starting pitcher held the Charros to only two hits through five innings and was replaced with one out in the sixth when his control started fo fade and, I believe, he had reached his pitch count. The home team came out swinging, scoring two runs in the first, one run in each of the fifth and sixth and a final nail in the coffin in the bottom of the eighth. The Charros only managed to score once each in the sixth and seventh as the Venados used five relief pitchers to wrap up the win. Final score 5 -2.
The caliber of the baseball was very high and it brought back fond memories of a night in 1969 spent with my sister at Jarry Park.Meer informatie
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- Dag 12
- dinsdag 24 december 2019 om 14:32
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Hoogte: 5 m
MexicoGeneral Rafael Buelna International Airport23°9’56” N 106°16’11” W
Christmas in Mexico City

At 2:40 PM, we flew out of Mazatlan on an Interjet flight en route to ten days in Mexico City. This last minute change to our winter staycation in Mazatlan came about when our original Airbnb turned out to be a dud and we couldn't find another that could accommodate our entire stay there.
However, since Brenda and I had wanted to make a side trip to the capital city anyway, it all worked out in the end.
We weren't expecting much from the no-frills Interjet flight, but we were pleasantly surprised. First of all, there was more than sufficient legroom to accommodate me, even when the person sitting in front of me fully reclined her seatback. And then, half way through the flight, the crew came down the aisle handing out snacks and complimentary drinks, INCLUDING COCKTAILS!!! Dos gin y agua tonica por favor! Wow, Air Canada barely hands out water on cross country flights. Lastly, our pilot gently dropped the Airbus onto the tarmac in Mexico City twenty minutes ahead of schedule.
We metroed into the city and found our hotel without any difficulty. A subway ride here costs five pesos ($0.35 CDN) so we only spent about seventy cents to get to our hotel.
We chose our hotel for its proximity to a number of highly rated vegan restaurants. Unfortunately, by the time we checked in, all of them had already closed for Xmas eve. And that folks, is how Brenda and I had our "A Christmas Story" moment of a meal of Chinese food in a food court, just before they closed.
We managed to find a well stocked grocery store where we picked up some fruit for breakfast, as we believe most places will still be closed after the late night posada celebrations. We're told most places will re-open at noon on Christmas day so we should be all set for food the rest of the day.
And if not, there's always Chinese food.
Hohoho!Meer informatie
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- Dag 13
- woensdag 25 december 2019 om 12:00
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Hoogte: 2.250 m
MexicoCentro19°25’39” N 99°8’38” W
Krishna, Krishna, Haré, Haré

Today we ventured into the historic Center of Mexico on a brief scouting trip. Our first stop was La Plaza de la Constitución where the Christmas festivities were in full swing. The entrance to the square is adorned with enormous, glittering snowflakes hanging from overhead cables. They claim to have the world’s largest artificial ice skating rink (4000 square meters, it was BIG!) and to complete the faux winter picture is a 10 meter tall Christmas tree made entirely of potted poinsettias.
In reality, the main reason for heading to that part of town was that we were hopeful some of the restaurants we wanted to try may have been open today. Unfortunately, not all the information one acquires on the web is one hundred percent accurate. After making unanswered calls to all our choices and scouring the internet for new potential dining spots, I struck gold. Govinda Ram would be open until 5:00, they were serving a special Christmas fixed menu and they were only a little over one kilometre from our location. Having eaten at a similar restaurant in Ottawa, Brenda and I knew this was an establishment run by the Hare Krishna movement.
On the way there we discussed our first exposure to this sect that, back in the day, always seemed to have a roving band of disciples with mostly shaven heads, clad in saffron coloured robes strolling down St. Catherine street, clanging cymbals and chanting. At the time, they were pretty much looked upon as a cult. But times have changed, the wandering Hare Krishna minstrels seem to have gone the way of the dodo and they are now almost mainstream.
In any case, when we arrived we were warmly greeted by the staff who informed us, once again of the special set menu for Christmas. We were promptly served a glass of Jamaica flower infused water, a plate of beet salad and another plate of what I thought was potato salad. What a surprise I got when I popped a piece into my mouth to find it was diced pear in a coconut sauce. Delicious, but more for dessert than as a main course. Another plate arrived with two more dessert items; a small torsade pastry dusted with sugar along with a red coloured mousse of some sort. With all these desserts in front of me, I asked the server if there was any more food coming, because, frankly, a beet salad and a couple of sweets wasn’t going to do it for me. She responded in the affirmative and set out a plate in front of each of us that was filled with a serving of stew, a slab of lasagna and a vegetable roll, all of it vegan and all of it delicious! The price for all this was 200 pesos for the two of us.
A much better option than another dish of food court Chinese food.
And although I may have the haircut, you won't be seeing me sporting a saffron robe and chanting anytime soon.Meer informatie
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- Dag 14
- donderdag 26 december 2019 om 11:00
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Hoogte: 2.221 m
MexicoDoctores19°24’52” N 99°9’17” W
Roma Norte y La Condesa

On Thursday Brenda and I did a self-guided walking tour through the area we’re staying in, Roma Norte, and the neighborhood next to us, La Condesa.
Condesa is most definitely upscale and was, during the ‘40s and ‘50s, home to Mexico’s biggest movie stars. There are more trees here than anywhere else in Mexico City, dozens of fine dining establishments, including some that are vegan, and countless beautiful Art Deco buildings.
We started our tour at Plaza Rio de Janeiro, which contains a lovely fountain graced with a replica of Michelangelo’s David. There were several people sitting on park benches in the warm sunshine and taking in the tranquility of the place.
We then moved on to Casa Lamm, which truly was the highlight of the tour. Built in the early 20th century, the architecture es heavily influenced by European, especially French trends of the late 19th and early 20th century. It now houses a fine arts school, fine dining restaurant, and has three separate art galleries that we browsed through. One of the artists used song lyrics, repeated over and over as a backdrop to the abstract work painted over them. He was very clearly a Beatles fan as the majority of his pieces included Lennon and McCartney lyrics.
We strolled down Álvaro Obregón Avenue, popping into shops and spots that caught our eye and broke for a terrific lunch at La Pitahaya Vegana restaurant before continuing to amble down the Center of Amsterdam Avenue, which once served as the route of the city’s horse track.
During our wandering we noticed the Drunkendog craft beer pub that offered no less than thirty six beers on tap and probably double that many in bottles. We returned at the end of our tour to sooth our parched throats and try a few of their offerings.
To wrap up our day, we walked a few blocks to Por Siempre Vegana 2 where we had a meal to die for that was unfortunately sullied by the worst server in all of Mexico. The food, however was so good that we will be returning one day soon to try more of their offerings, but we’ll be sure to be seated in a different section.Meer informatie
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- Dag 14
- donderdag 26 december 2019 om 12:00
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Hoogte: 2.249 m
MexicoColonia Roma19°24’54” N 99°9’31” W
La Pitahaya Vegana

We were so happy when Boxing Day rolled around, not because we were hoping for any big sales (Boxing Day sales does not appear to be a Mexican tradition) but because all the restaurants were once again open.
We had selected the hotel we're staying in because of its location in the "Roma Norte" neighbourhood which borders the "Condesa" neighbourhood. Condesa in particular is teeming with vegan restaurants and our biggest challenge will be deciding which ones to include and which ones to leave out in the 9 days we have remaining in Mexico City.
For Boxing Day lunch, we went to "La Pitahaya Vegana", a completely vegan and gluten-free restaurant. Pitahaya is the Spanish word for dragon fruit, which may explain why all the tortillas they serve are pink like the fruit. Everything is made fresh at the restaurant, and the dishes are creative, colourful, and beautifully presented. We shared a trio of tacos, our favourite being the one stuffed with curried potatoes, but the show stopper of the meal was the Mole Mixteco, pink tortillas filled with tabascan bananas topped with rice and served on a bed of mole. Holy moly mole! The mix and mingling of all the flavours was just indescribably delicious.
La Pitahaya Vegana is a little pricey by Mexican standards but given the quality and presentation of the food, it was worth it.Meer informatie
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- Dag 14
- donderdag 26 december 2019 om 16:00
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Hoogte: 2.250 m
MexicoRoma Norte19°24’57” N 99°10’10” W
Drunkendog

I (Brenda) have always loved Mexican beer, so when we came across "Drunkendog" in our Boxing Day walking tour of Roma Norte and Condesa, we decided to we would have to detour back for a little aperativo.
Drunkendog is a tap room featuring 38 Mexican craft beers that come straight out of the barrel. They don't offer any beer flights but it's possible to get small 150 ml pours so you can sample several beers to find one your really like.
I normally like Mexican amber beers but I was curious about the fruity beers on offer so I tried a Sour Ale with Boysenberry, as well as an IPA with passion fruit, pineapple and mango. The boysenberry ale was indeed sour but light and refreshing. The IPA was wonderfully passion fruity on the nose but I was expecting it to be sweeter on the palate. I nonetheless had no trouble drinking it down.
Roch had the Fauna Belgian White and a Hercules rye pale ale. The Belgian White was light and refreshing but lacked the citrus element he likes in a white beer. The rye pale ale was, unfortunately, kinda "meh". Luckily, he rounded out his tasting session with the 19 Norte Caramelo, an English style brown ale that was as chocolatey as it was caramelly. It was his favourite, and having tasted it myself, it was my favourite too. We've decided we'll have to go back and order a full glass each next time. At 7.6% abv, methinks someone will have to carry me home.Meer informatie
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- Dag 14
- donderdag 26 december 2019
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Hoogte: 2.232 m
MexicoRoma Sur19°24’40” N 99°9’49” W
Por Siempre Vegana

"Por Siempre Vegana" started out as a vegan street taco stand. A taqueria outpost was later opened where you could sit and order other Mexican fare in addition to tacos. Whether eating at the taco stand or the taqueria, you can expect to wait since both locations are extremely popular.
Roch and I ate at the taqueria for Boxing Day dinner. We arrived around 6:00 pm and waited about 30 minutes to get a table. Everywhere we've eaten so far, we've been served by friendly wait staff so the waitress at Por Siempre Vegana stood out but not in a good way. We're not sure if our waitress was incompetent or whether our order somehow got lost in the busy shuffle but half an hour later, we discovered the kitchen hadn't even started our order even though people who were seated after us were already enjoying their meals.
Roch and I were both getting pretty annoyed but "ay caramba", the bitter taste that the bad service had put in our mouths was immediately replaced by a taste of heaven when our food finally arrived. It was the best meal we've had thus far in Mexico. I had ordered sauteed mushrooms with almond cheese served with corn tortillas and Roch had ordered a "torta" (sandwich) filled with green chorizo, almond cheese, avocado, refried beens and onions. We helped ourselves to the toppings & condiments bar that included potatoes, sauteed "nopales" (cactus), cilantro, tomatoes, limes, guacamole sauce, various salsas and more! We moaned with pleasure as we ate and we couldn't believe that all this delicious food cost us a mere $7.66 altogether!
With food that good and prices that low, we will definitely go back, and hopefully we can report that the bad service we got was simply a glitch.Meer informatie

ReizigerBrenda and Roch, I love reading your journal into the nee episode of Mexico. Kinda takes me back to Italy, as each day becomes my short story. Can’t wait to hook up. I’m calling Michelle later today so we’ll have a location of our whereabouts to share with you. Enjoy the day! Francie
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- Dag 15
- vrijdag 27 december 2019 om 13:00
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Hoogte: 2.235 m
MexicoColonia Roma19°24’50” N 99°9’39” W
Fat Vegan

Vegan does not necessarily = healthy.
To take a break from all the tacos we've been eating, we decided to go to the "Fat Vegan", a small and relatively new burger shack offering mainly burgers and fries. Since I'm not able to eat gluten, I opted for the Caesar salad with a side of fries. The Caesar salad was excellent and the fries were even better, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, exactly as I like them.
Roch ordered the Pancho Vegan burger, a black bean-based burger that required many napkins to eat. The burger had a distinct Mexican slant with its refried beans, avocado, caramelized onions, poblano pepper strips and almond mozzarella. Unlike the Beyond Meat burger, this patty was quite soft and required rotating the burger 180 degrees after each bite to eat the parts that had squeezed out of the bun. Like me, Roch raved about the fries, opting to dip them in a vegan chipotle mayo to give them added pizzazz.
Eating here was a great experience. The staff were very friendly and spoke excellent English. There's limited seating, just a few stools on the inside and a couple of small tables on the outside. Lucky for us, one of the tables freed up just as our meal was ready.
I fear if we keep eating like this, we will soon resemble the Fat Vegan's logo.Meer informatie
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- Dag 15
- vrijdag 27 december 2019 om 15:07
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Hoogte: 2.234 m
MexicoColonia Roma19°24’48” N 99°9’42” W
Piñatas

Mexico is a country where multiple traditions have merged. The Mexicans have adopted Christmas traditions from countries like the US but of course their version of Christmas involves a piñata.
Usually throughout the year, piñatas can be found in the shape of burros, unicorns, cartoon characters and even Donald Trump.
But when December rolls around, one can buy piñatas in the shape of Christmas trees, reindeers, and even Santa and Mrs. Claus, though I'm not sure if Santa would put you on the naughty or nice list if you were to whack him open with a stick.
The most common piñata we saw was shaped like a star with seven points. Each of the points represents one of the seven deadly sins: pride, greed, lust, envy, gluttony, wrath and sloth. Breaking the piñata meant breaking free of these sinful temptations. As a reward, you were showered by God's grace, traditionally represented by the fruits and peanuts inside the piñata but these have been replaced by candy.
Piñatas are broken during "posadas" which Mexicans host during the 9 days leading up to Christmas (December 16-24). The 9 days represent the 9 months of Mary's pregnancy, as well as Mary and Joseph's quest to find shelter before the birth of Jesus. Although some families still celebrate posadas with re-enactments of this quest, for many Mexicans, posadas are simply a time to party.Meer informatie
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- Dag 16
- zaterdag 28 december 2019 om 09:30
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Hoogte: 2.237 m
MexicoAlameda Central19°26’6” N 99°8’39” W
Centro Historico

Today we got our butts up and out of the hotel before 9:00 to take a guided walking tour of the Historical Center. We booked it through Strawberry Tours, who offer free walking tours of many major cities around the world. At the end of the tour, you tip the tour guide in accordance with the job they did. The tour started at 9:30 and covered about 3.5 kilometers, ending at noon. Brenda and I took one of their tours in Barcelona a few years ago, were very pleased with the tour and decided fo give it a go here.
Our tour guide, Hermes, was a historian and provided a ton of interesting historical information on the city, the people and events that made it what it is, as well as his own personal opinions and feelings on many topics.
We learned that Mexico City was founded by the Aztecs in 1325 on an island in Lake Texcoco. Starting in the 17th Century, the lake was drained and the city now rests on the lake bed's saturated clay soil. This soft base is collapsing due to the over-extraction of groundwater which supplies forty percent of the city's drinking water. Since the beginning of the 20th century the city has sunk as much as nine meters in some areas. This explains why so many of the buildings we saw have a little lean to them.
Our first stop was at the post office which is undoubtedly the most beautiful in the world. It has polished brass cages throughout, a grand staircase leading to the second floor and a mosaic depicting the country's symbol, an eagle with a snake in it's beak, comprised entirely of postage stamps!
He then took us through the magnificent Sanborn's department store whose floor slopes so much you almost feel as though you're walking downhill.
The tour did not go into many buildings, but Hermes stopped outside all the key spots and
gave us details, anecdotes and history on all of them.
Next to the Cathedral, are the ruins of the original Aztec temples. There are also a number of indigenous shamans who will, for a donation of twenty to forty pesos (as suggested by Hermes), perform a cleansing ritual to remove the bad energy from our bodies. Brenda and I both went for it as we figured, for that price, what did we have to lose?
After the tour we walked to VEGuerrero for lunch where I had the special Saturday buffet, Brenda had four tacos and we each tried a Victoria beer, as suggested by Hermes.
We want to go back to Centro mid week to explore the Aztec ruins, the presidential palace and a couple of museums that were far too crowded on the weekend.
All on all, a very educational and entertaining day.Meer informatie

Roch PelletierMabel, he scared the bejesus outta all the bad energy we were carrying around with us. Now we're Mr and Mrs Positivity.

Bad energy?? You two??? I don't believe it......but it never hurts to get a little voodoo reminder now and then! ;). Mabel heehee
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- Dag 16
- zaterdag 28 december 2019 om 12:00
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Hoogte: 2.237 m
MexicoBuenavista19°26’26” N 99°8’60” W
VEGuerrero

After our walking tour of the historical centre, we were ready for lunch. However, the vegan options in the historical centre were limited and they didn't have great reviews. We decided therefore to walk the 1.7 kilometres to "VEGuerrero" which was on our eating hit list.
VEGuerrero is not in a chi-chi neighbourhood, but rather a working class one. In fact, I think I saw a few working girls on a couple of street corners not far from the restaurant. That being said, the neighbourhood didn't feel threatening in any way, and the clientele at the restaurant was mainly locals including families with children.
The tacos are the rave at VEGuerrero but on Saturdays they also offer a buffet for just 130 pesos ($9.25 CAD). Roch opted for the buffet but I wasn't hungry enough to do an all-you-can-eat buffet justice so I ordered a few tacos instead. The tacos really were delicious, my favourite being the soy chorizo one, all so nicely washed down with the Victoria amber beers we ordered.
The buffet was quite impressive and included Birria, a soup usually made with pork, but t ou s version was just broth, sandwiches filled with spiced potatoes, deep fried quesadillas filled with falafel, a quinoa ceviche with avocado, a medley of veggie strips done in a vegan cream sauce, rice. beans, and the agua of the day.
After several trips to the buffet table so he could sample everything, Roch declared "no más". We couldn't help but notice how the two women sitting at the table next to us outdid him by eating at least a serving of everything as well as ordering tacos, which we discovered were included in the buffet price. They were still eating when we left!
It's a shame we're not in Mexico City for another Saturday because I would have liked to try the buffet, but there's always next time.Meer informatie
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- Dag 17
- zondag 29 december 2019 om 11:00
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Hoogte: 2.241 m
MexicoColonia Roma19°25’2” N 99°9’38” W
Vegamo

I woke up hungry Sunday morning and we decided to fortify ourselves with a good brunch before embarking on our Coyoacan Walking Tour. We headed out to VegAmo and arrived shortly after they opened at 10:00 am. Good thing we arrived when we did because the place filled up fast and there was a wait list by 11:00 am.
VegAmo had lots of interesting dishes and many of them could be made gluten-free so that was a bonus for me. Roch and I both decided to order the Chilaquiles, described as a special Mexican dish with corn tortillas, black chocolatey almond mole, cashew cream, vegan cheese, avocado, black beans, red onions and sliced almonds. Since we were hungry, we asked for the optional vegan chorizo as well.
Believe me when I say that we didn't need to add the vegan chorizo. The bowl was so substantial that we both struggled to finish it, but struggle on we did because it was too yummy to leave any behind. The mole was spicy but not too spicy and the mingling of all the ingredients together made our tastebuds dance with delight.
Roch had ordered a golden milk with his meal and I had ordered a "Mazunte" smoothie touted to be anti-depressing and anti-inflammatory (almond cream, cocoa, cardamom, dates, cinnamon, banana and rice milk). My eyes were obviously bigger than my stomach because I had to ask for my smoothie to be put into a paper cup to go. Even after walking around Coyoacan all afternoon, I still didn't feel hungry for dinner. Our brunch was $23.65 CAD. What a deal of a meal.Meer informatie
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- Dag 17
- zondag 29 december 2019 om 11:30
- 🌙 12 °C
- Hoogte: 2.251 m
MexicoColonia del Carmen19°21’24” N 99°9’45” W
Coyoacán

After consuming a copious brunch at Vegamo, we hopped on the Metro to set off exploring the Coyoacán neighborhood, located about 7 kilometers south of us.
Just a quick word about public transit here in Mexico City. In a nutshell, there is no better way to get around. Once you've paid your 5 peso fare, you can stay on as long as you like. Yes. That's right, 5 pesos, the equivalent of about $0.35 CDN. The only negative about the Mexico City subway is the abundance of stairs and lack of functional escalators. On the plus side, I've been hitting my daily stair climbing goals since we got here.
This neighborhood is one of Mexico City's oldest and was once home to artist Frida Kahlo and Marxist Leon Trotsky. Columbian novelist Gabriel Garcia Marquez now calls it home.
On the way to our first stop, we stumbled across a very modern structure that is surrounded by a fence adorned with old French movie posters. Our curiosity got the best of us so we wandered in and learned it is the Cineteta Nacional de Mexico. It celebrates movie culture, has a film archive and video library and has ten theaters where you can watch a movie for 30 to 50 pesos, depending on the day of the week. At the moment, there is a European film festival underway with films being screened in their original language with Spanish subtitles.
We then headed to our intended first stop, the Frida Kahlo Museum, but got no further than its general vicinity as the crowds were lined up around the corner to gain entrance. She is one of Mexico's most celebrated and recognizable artists whose face can be found on everything from t-shirts to coffee cups in souvenir shops and markets everywhere. The museum is actually housed in the home where she was born and died and contains many of her works and personal objects, including her bed with a mirror above it that she used for producing her self portraits. Rumour has it that beneath the bed still lie the eyebrow tweezers she lost as a teenager.
We then made a quick visit to the local mercado which is by far the most claustrophobia inducing building I've ever been in. The stalls are strung together with a very narrow aisle running between them. All the vendors, save those selling food, seem to be selling the same tourist trap dust collecting souvenirs, which are busting from each stall. Clothing is hung over the passageways at a height suitable to the average Mexican, not a 6'3" Canadian. The cacaphony of bright Mexican colours adorning the wares is enough to trigger epileptic seizures. Needless to say, I couldn't get out of there fast enough.
As a respite from the crowded marketplace, we next grabbed a bench at El Jardin Centenario, the entrance to which is through a 16th century double archway. We spent a little time people watching before continuing our exploration.
Immediately adjacent to Jardin Centenario is Plaza Hidalgo and both venues were teeming with people on this cool Sunday afternoon. There were mimes, musicians and jugglers entertaining the crowds. There were organ grinders, candy sellers and even a couple of people trying to sell dogs. If we'd have been in Canada, I fear Brenda would have brought home a tiny Yorkshire Terrier puppy. I must admit, it was awfully cute.
We popped into the 16th century Baroque style church, but didn't take any photos as there was a mass in progress at the time.
After that we took a long leisurely stroll down the cobblestone-lined Francisco Sosa Street, one of the oldest in the city. As we made our way back towards the Metro, we admired the many 18th century colonial houses and mansions that lined the route.
After we got off the Metro in our Roma neighborhood, we spotted people ice skating in a nearby park! Outdoors! In the sunshine! In Mexico City! OK, the ice didn’t look to be in the best of shape, and I didn’t see any future Sidney Crosby’s, but ya gotta love the effort and the novelty this must offer the locals. Pretty cool. Sorry, bad pun.
The more time I spend in Mexico City, the more I like it!Meer informatie
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- Dag 18
- maandag 30 december 2019 om 09:00
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Hoogte: 2.247 m
MexicoAlameda Central19°26’3” N 99°8’45” W
The Day That Wasn’t

Today was just one of those days where everything goes awry. We spent the day sorting out messed up tour plans and phone plans. All I can say is, thank goodness for the comfort of food!
We had booked a tour to see the pyramids at Teotihuacán, the most important and largest pre-Columbian city in Mexico.
We arrived at the address given in our instructions ten minutes before the start of the tour but despite our best efforts and ten attempts to call the number provided, we were unable to locate the office. We finally, at 9:10, entered a luggage storage facility to ask for help, but the woman behind the desk spoke no English. She made a few calls and eventually a young man showed up to tell us we arrived too late to take the tour and there was no way to take it today.
Dejected and a more than a little disappointed, we went back to our hotel and made last minute alternate plans.
We had lunch at "Gold Taco", located in Mercado Roma which is not really a market but rather a gourmet food hall. Although the prices here are higher than at your typical taqueria, the quality of the food justifies the price.
We ordered mushroom tamales, quesadillas, and a few tacos. Although everything was delicious, the tamales were the highlight. They were "elevated", and truly the best tamales we'd ever eaten.
We then strolled around and made another visit to the Mercado Medellin where we picked up a few snacks and goodies lest we find ourselves feeling peckish (fat chance of that happening in this city).
Then for dinner we went from gourmet to street food. We ate at "Gracias Madre" a popular neighborhood vegan taco stand. Roch ordered 3 different types of tacos, arrechero, chorizo rojo and salchichas a la mexicana, and I ordered the volcanoes (similar to a tostada) with a red chorizo topping. I found the red chorizo a tad salty but otherwise delicious. As we were paying the bill, we spotted a little chocolate tart in the display case. Once I learned it was gluten free, it got added to the bill and taken home with us.
Roch asked the owner why they were called "Gracias Madre" and he was told that the name reflects the gratitude for the work they love to do, and Madre was in honour of mother Earth, who provides all the bounty for the food they serve.
In the end, we re-booked our Teotihuacán tour for my birthday on January 2 and managed to cross a couple of eateries off of our to do list. Not a total loss.
There's always a silver lining.Meer informatie
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- Dag 19
- dinsdag 31 december 2019 om 13:00
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Hoogte: 2.243 m
MexicoPalacio de Bellas Artes19°26’10” N 99°8’28” W
Centro Historico Take 2

Other than in Thailand, it's always a challenge being in a faraway place over the holidays. We try to plan out our days, but inevitably the plans get thrown out the window as soon as we get started.
This year was no exception. We set out this morning intending to revisit some of the sites we couldn't get to on Saturday because of the crowds. We had planned a lunch at Comedor Vegetariana, which is located just south of the old city.
On our way, we got sidetracked by a boulevard lined with tech shops and spent a little time finding a new screen protector for Brenda's cell phone. By that time I was getting a little peckish so we decided to stop at the restaurant before starting our touring. But when we arrived at the restaurant, we found it to be closed. Brenda then suggested we go to Gopal, a vegan Indian restaurant, but it opened at 1:00 and we had some time to kill. We stopped in at a museum showing the works of local artists that was at times whimsical and at times impressive, particularly the carvings.
From there, we went to Sears, not to shop but because of its strategic location across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The Sears café on the ninth floor made for a perfect photo op of the Palacio, by far the most beautiful building in the city.
Then off we went to Gopal only to find it closed as well. We made a couple of phone calls and found that VEGuerrero would be open until 4:00. OK, it was almost 2 kms away, but we had to eat, and we really enjoyed their food the other day. We arrived hungry and altogether we ordered seven tacos, a torta (sandwich) and two beers for the princely sum of $14.00.
With full and happy bellies, we walked the two kilometers back to the old city.
We wrapped up our tour with a visit to the ruins of El Templo Mayor, the main temple of the Mexica peoples. The construction dates back to 1325 and was expanded in seven different phases over the next two centuries. In 1521 the temple was sacked by the Spaniards, Cortes ordered the destruction of the pyramids, and built a Mediterranean style settlement on the site.
The Aztec architects designed such good foundations for their structures, the buildings erected on them are still standing straight while the surrounding properties not built on Aztec bases are all sinking into the ground.
The photos below show just how much many of the buildings in the old city have shifted.
By the time we made our way back to our hotel this New Year's eve, pretty much everything but the convenience stores had closed.
But it's ok. We're well stocked with snacks and goodies with a bottle of bubbly sitting on ice as I write this.
Let's see how our plans for New Years day pan out.
Happy New Year!!!Meer informatie
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- Dag 20
- woensdag 1 januari 2020 om 14:00
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Hoogte: 2.258 m
MexicoLago de Chapultepec19°25’16” N 99°11’22” W
Ridin’ Along on a Carousel...

Each winter that we're in Vancouver, Roch and I go to the Vandusen gardens to see the Christmas lights, courtesy of Vancouver Coastal Health for my volunteer services. We bundle up in many layers, don our hats and gloves and scarves, and walk in awe through the twinkling winter wonderland. As beautiful as the lights are, the highlight for me is riding the carousel.
So during our New Year's Day stroll through the Bosque de Chapultepec, how perfect to find a carousel so we didn't have to give up our tradition... but how much nicer to go riding in t-shirts and shorts.Meer informatie
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- Dag 21
- donderdag 2 januari 2020 om 09:00
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Hoogte: 2.341 m
MexicoPyramid of the Sun19°41’32” N 98°50’37” W
Teotihuacan

Today we picked up where we left off on Monday and finally made it out to see the awesome pyramids at Teotihuacán. Our first brief stop was within Mexico City at Tlatelolco, which was the marketplace dating to the same period as the Templo Mayor in Centro Histórico. Next, and as is the case with most tours in Mexico, we made a pit stop for tequila and mezcal tasting and a demonstration of obsidian sculptures. We were then shown the importance of the agave cactus to the indigenous people. The point of the blooms were used as weapons and as sewing needles with the fibers of the plant acting as thread. Both the inner and outer layers of the leaves can be peeled off and used to write upon.
Then we drove the 40 kilometres to the pyramids at Teotihuacán, which is known today as the site of many of the most architecturally significant Mesoamerican pyramids built in the pre-Columbian Americas. At its peak it was the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas, with a population estimated at 125,000 or more, making it at least the sixth-largest city in the world during its era.
The city covered 8 square miles and is thought to have been established around 100 BC with major monuments continuously under construction until about 250 AD. The city may have lasted until sometime between the 7th and 8th centuries AD, but its major monuments were sacked and systematically burned around 550 AD.
We climbed the 217 treacherous steps to the peak of the sun pyramid and walked down the avenue of the dead toward the pyramid of the moon, flanked on both sides by a array of imposing altars. Not only is the architecture and size of these ancient structures impressive, the degree of detail that went into the builds is difficult to fathom. All the mortar between the large stones in the walls contains smaller decorative pebbles of volcanic origin, evenly spaced to be as appealing to the eye as possible. Walking down the avenue, one is almost transported back in time and imagines what the hustle and bustle of the day may have been like.
We visited an ancient home and place of worship where many of the murals on the walls have survived the centuries, with their vibrant colours fully intact.
When we left the pyramids we stopped for a quick lunch before completing the tour at the shrine to Our Lady of Guadeloupe, where it is said the Virgin Mary appeared to an indigenous man in 1531. The original shrine, which is astonishingly beautiful, is unfortunately sinking into the clay and was replaced in 1978 with a new basilica that has a capacity of 10,000 worshippers.
We still have one day remaining to explore this fascinating city and I feel we’ve barely scratched the surface. There is no doubt in my mind that we will return here in the not too distant future to continue our exploration of this vibrant metropolis.Meer informatie
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- Dag 21
- donderdag 2 januari 2020 om 20:00
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Hoogte: 2.221 m
MexicoDoctores19°24’52” N 99°9’17” W
Dusty Town

We came to Mexico to escape the wet gray winter of Vancouver and we haven't been disappointed. We haven't seen any rain since arriving in Mexico City. The air is dry here and we feel the effects in our nostrils. We've both developed chapped lips. The streets are always dusty.
Every couple of days, we use the shoe cloth the hotel provides us to clean our sneakers but since we average 20,000+ steps per day, it's a bit of a losing battle. No wonder there are so many shoe shine stands in this city.Meer informatie

Put some vaseline on a Q-tip and swab your nostrils - it really helps. Vaseline on lips is great too (don't use the nostril swabs though LOLOL!!!). Mabel....of course, who else would write such a thing?! LOL!!! Soon your lips will be luscious and moist and ready for smooching again!! Have fun!! ;)
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- Dag 21
- donderdag 2 januari 2020 om 20:00
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Hoogte: 2.221 m
MexicoDoctores19°24’52” N 99°9’17” W
Happy Birthday To Me

Another year has flown by and I awoke today to find myself only one year away from official senior citizenship everywhere on the planet and receiving my CPP and OAS benefits. Unbelievable!
Brenda's gift to me this year was this getaway to Mexico City, and what a great gift it's been. We've both fallen quite hard for this metropolis with it's vibrant colors, rhythmic music, warm people and great food. We will surely return for a longer stay someday soon.
Today started out with a birthday card in which Brenda promised to keep sending me Valentines, birthday greetings and bottles of wine. We then headed out on our second attempt at a tour of the pyramids at Teotihuacan, which turned out to be most enjoyable and awe inspiring, despite the lousy tour guide. To think these enormous structures were erected 2000 years ago boggles the mind.
We then went for a birthday dinner at Por Siempre, which was in fact our return visit there because the food is so good. Our last meal there was tainted by a horrid server, but we got the good server this time and everything was perfect. Five tacos and a Champequeso (mushrooms sauteed with vegan cheese) later, we left with full bellies and a chocolate covered donut to eat later in lieu of a full sized birthday cake.
As I type this we're in our hotel room sipping on the second bottle of Champagne that we bought during our Costco visit. We decided to try the Kirkland brand which is quite delicious, however, the bubbles are sorely lacking in finesse. BURP!!!
Today I received dozens of well wishes and loads of love from friends and family and got to spend the day exploring this great big world with my favorite person in it.
What more could a 64 year old ask for?Meer informatie
how did you like swoop? b.boop
Roch PelletierOther than the inconvenience of having to leave from Abbotsford, I thought it was great. Yeah, you have to pay for everything, even carry ons, but it was still half the cost of a flight on their parent airline, Westjet. I'd do it again, especially since the flight here was direct.
ReizigerHello Roch,