South America 2022/2023

October 2022 - January 2023
A long awaited and anticipated return to Chile and Argentina, twelve years after our first visit. Read more
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  • Day 12

    Adios Mendoza

    October 28, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    When we first arrived in Mendoza ten days ago, our impression of the city was rather "meh". We didn't find the city particularly attractive. The buildings were neither old and charming nor sleek and modern, but rather drab and utilitarian looking. There were exceptions of course, but they were so obviously exceptions whenever we came across them.

    That being said, the longer we stayed in Mendoza, the more the place grew on us. We found the people very kind and patient, and we admired their stoicism in light of the hopeless economic situation they face daily. The more we walked, the more we discovered charming areas where we would consider staying on a future visit. The tree-lined streets reminded us of Vancouver while the arborial canopy shaded us from the blistering Argentine sun. Vancouver's North Shore Rocky Mountains seem puny compared to the magnificence of the snow-capped Andes we saw in Lujan de Cuyo.

    On our last walk about town on Friday, we stumbled upon an interesting looking building and ventured inside only to discover the ceiling was filled with domes, windows and panes of intricate stained glass. As it turns out, most of the city was flattened by a 7.2 magnitude earthquake in 1861, which explains it's lack of historic buildings. It appears that at least one building survived.

    We ate surprisingly well. Looking back, there wasn't a single meal we didn't enjoy, whether we were going swank or just having an inexpensive nosh amongst locals.

    And then of course, the wine. So much wine, so little time. We didn't even come close to scratching the surface of all that was on offer. We're already thinking, "What a pleasure it would be to come back."
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  • Day 16

    Adios Santiago

    November 1, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    I apologize because this blog is a lot longer than I had intended, but a lot has happened since we left Mendoza. We were both very excited to return to Santiago, a city we quite fell in love with on our honeymoon twelve years ago. It was clean and beautiful, we felt safe, we enjoyed very good food and wine at reasonable prices and the weather was perfect. We spent many happy moments shopping at the Mercado Central, buying fresh fruit and dining with the locals. We marvelled at the grandeur and pristine condition of the historic buildings.

    This time, when we arrived, we used an Uber to get us to our accommodations which was located downtown, close to the Mercado and the historic center. Once we got into the city, as we crawled through rush hour traffic, we were struck by the reality of today’s Santiago. What the f#*k happened? Graffiti everywhere, homeless encampments around the Mercado Central, street vendors lining the sidewalks with a wide array of used crap spread out on blankets and a prevailing sense of hopelessness. Not quite as bad as Vancouver’s Downtown East Side, but pretty close. This is definitely not somewhere we want to spend three months.

    When our Uber arrived close to our accommodations, we had to walk half a block through a crowded impromptu street market. The street market wasn't anything like the ones we encountered in Thailand where you couldn't wait to wade right in. This street market was chaotic and full of litter and had a sense of lawlessness that immediately put us on edge. Of course, we had no internet connection as our Argentine SIM card doesn’t work in Chile and we had no way to let our host know we had arrived. Thankfully, the security guard was able to let us in and contact our host, Victor, who promptly brought us up to our home for the next four days.

    Based on our initial impressions we immediately started formulating a Plan B.

    On our first full day in Santiago, we walked over to Barrio Italia, an upscale Hipster part of town that is chock full of restaurants and interesting shops. This is more like the Chile we first knew, however the price of everything in this area is reflective of the better quality of life there.

    On our second day, we took a walking tour of the historic center that was guided by a young Santiagan named Leon. Along with his description of the buildings we saw, he gave us his perspective of the events that shaped modern day Chile, from the military coup that overthrew the Allende regime to the student protests of 2019 that were the catalyst for the abhorrent widespread graffiti in the city.

    On Day four we returned to do a walkthrough of Providencia and Barrio Italia after dismissing the idea of hiking to the top of the 850-meter San Cristobal Hill due to safety concerns. Since our homeward bound flight leaves from Santiago, we booked an Airbnb accommodation in Barrio Italia for the last leg of our journey in January.

    This post is lacking in photos because in many places, it just wasn't safe to take out our phones. The photo of Santa Lucia Hill is from the safety of Victor's beautiful terrace. If you zoom in on the photo of the Academia des Bellas Artes, you'll get an idea of the disrespectful graffiti on the beautiful buildings. We wanted to take a photo of the shocking street graffiti but we just couldn't risk it. In fact, while we were at Victor's, another one of his guests had her phone snatched from a cyclist riding by. Uggh, reminders of our mugging in Brazil.

    Alas, it's on to plan B.
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  • Day 18

    We're Baaaaack!!!

    November 3, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    When it became clear that Santiago was a bust, we started looking at other possible locations to spend our 3 months away. We considered La Serena, north of Santiago on the coast. We considered La Concepcion, south of Santiago on the coast. We considered cruising to somewhere in the South Pacific. In the end, I asked Roch, "What does your heart say?". He looked at me and with hardly a pause replied, "Argentina". I felt the same way.

    When we flew to Santiago from Mendoza, we were captivated by the sight of the Andes below us. We decided that for our return trip, we'd take a bus through the Andes instead. The 8-hour trip through the mountains was spectacular. The climb to Los Portillos just before the Argentine border involved 16-17 switchbacks. Our photos don't do justice to how majestic the mountains are.

    Our only concern about returning to Argentina was financial. We had brought enough US dollars with us to exchange on the "black market" for the 10 days we were supposed to be here. Before going to Santiago, we squandered our remaining Argentine pesos buying booze at the duty free, knowing that the money would be worthless outside of Argentina. Taking money out of ATMs in Argentina involves a $10-12 USD fee at a very unfavourable official rate. Luckily, we had met fellow travellers who informed us that the best way to get money in Argentina was through Western Union and this turned out to be true. We emailed money to Roch's daughter who sent it back to us for cash pickup at any Western Union outlet. Instead of getting 115 pesos to the Canadian dollar (official bank rate), we got almost 225 pesos through Western Union.

    Aaahh, it's good to be back.
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  • Day 20

    Shake, Rattle and Roll

    November 5, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The fruit available in Argentina isn't very exciting: bananas, apples, oranges, lemons, strawberries. We saw mangoes and cherimoyas in Chile but here, nothing very exciting. Nonetheless, oranges are plentiful at the moment and yesterday, we bought 3 kgs for 1.34 CAD. They're great for juicing and we love having a large glass after our runs in the park. 

    I was making some juice yesterday morning when a huge truck roared by our apartment. My juice glasses started dancing and jumping. What's going on? That's no truck! It's an earthquake!!!

    Breaking news:

    A magnitude-5.4 earthquake occurred in Mendoza Province at 09:12 Nov. 5. The epicenter was about 56 km (35 miles) south southeast of Mendoza. The tremor occurred at a depth of about 2 km (1 mile), and shaking was probably felt throughout the affected area. 

    So much for all that earthquake training I had in school in Vancouver. I didn't even crawl under the table. I just stood in shock thinking, "Don't spill all my fresh squeezed OJ".
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  • Day 21

    Please Please Me

    November 6, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    A few years ago, Brenda and I saw the Beatles tribute band, Beatlemania, play with the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra at the Orpheum Theater. The band did a really good job of recreating the Beatles tunes, but the real magic of the evening was the power of a live symphony orchestra accompanying those timeless melodies.

    Of course, mention anything Beatles to me and I’m in. And so, when Brenda came to me with an ad for “Symphonic Beatles Revolver” at the Teatro Mendoza last Sunday, I immediately put it on my calendar. All we had to do now was buy tickets. When we started looking online, there were still a lot of good seats available at all prices, however, the website refused to accept our Canadian credit card as payment. No problem, the theater is only three kilometers from our apartment and the box office is open until 7:00 PM. Of course, once we got to the theater, we found the box office closed and were told tickets are only sold online or at the box office starting two hours before the show.

    Disappointed that all the good seats would probably all be gone by then, we nonetheless resolved to return at 7:00 PM on Sunday and be the first in line to grab two leftover seats.

    As it turned out, we arrived at the box office at 7:05 on Sunday and there was no sign of life anywhere except for the security guard inside the door. He informed us the tickets would go on sale at 8:00 PM, one hour before showtime. Things are just done differently in South America.

    We decided to have dinner while we waited and ended up eating a reasonable facsimile of a Thai meal. We then made our way back to the theater and managed to score two seats, just off center in the eleventh row for only $1500. We were of course very pleased with our purchase and because we had an hour to kill before showtime, we wandered around the corner to a convenience store that offered tables where clients could enjoy their purchases, in our case, a couple of ice-cold beers.

    Although the showtime was listed as 9:00 pm, the music didn’t start until almost 9:30 pm. Normally, us old fogies would be getting ready to hit the sack. The band was comprised of three singers, two men and a woman, a four-piece string section, five brass players, a flautist, drummer, bassist, guitarist and a pianist. Hardly a symphony orchestra, but they hit all the right notes and provided an enjoyable evening of music. The voices overall were quite good, although it was a little weird having a female voice in the mix. The band was very good at interacting with the crowd although Brenda and I only understood about ten percent of what they were saying. We both agreed it was $3000 well spent.

    At the end of the thirty-song set, we, and the crowd, left the auditorium with smiling faces, presumably to go home. We tried to get an Uber, but there was a long wait and prices were high, so we hopped on a bus. As we rode past Plaza Independencia we were astonished to see throngs of people, families with young children, a night market and food stalls doing thriving business at almost midnight on a Sunday. And again, as the bus drove down the restaurant hub of Mendoza, Aristides Boulevard, the sidewalks were crowded and all the tables, inside restaurants and outside, were filled with people. Since we are NEVER out this late, we had no idea of the nightlife in this city.

    We may have to readjust our sleep schedule over the next couple of months.

    Oh yeah, those expensive tickets for the show: They cost 3,000 pesos, not dollars, which is $13.39 CDN.
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  • Day 24

    Vermouth

    November 9, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Vermouth is not just a drink in Argentina but rather a cultural tradition borne from its immigrant roots. Until the 1930s, vermouth was largely imported, and even today, Argentina tops the list as Cinzano's largest market, beating out even Cinzano's domestic Italian market!

    Argentina has been producing its own vermouth since the 1930's and recently the quality and creativity of their products have been making waves. Since the main ingredient of vermouth is wine, it's not really a surprise that wineries are one of the main drivers for pushing the vermouth trend. Vermouth is typically made from white grapes but innovations in Argentina include those made with red varietals such as Malbec, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

    We couldn't leave Mendoza without a visit to La Central Vermuteria, a popular bar specializing in vermouth and vermouth cocktails. Since I'm not normally a fan of sweet alcohol, I selected a dry Argentine vermouth (Vermu La Fuerza Blanco) while Roch opted for a sweet one (Vermu Lunfa Rosso). In the end, I preferred the sweet one since the dry one was a little too bitter for my taste. That being said, I can't say I'm really a fan. I think I'll stick with undoctored Malbec just the same.
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  • Day 26

    All Things Wine

    November 11, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The presence of wine is everywhere in Mendoza as it's an integral part of the cultural fabric here.

    On our last day in Mendoza, we joined an "Origins of Wine" free walking tour offered by the city. The tour promised to
    immerse us in the world of wine and end with a complimentary tasting in one of the cities wineries. Unfortunately, the tour was only offered in Spanish and we quickly realized how inadequate our Duolingo lessons have been. We decided to drop off and go see an art exhibit instead, but not just any art exhibition. We went to see the entries from the National Wine Label Design Contest.

    Since 1990, the Mendoza Stock Exchange has held an annual competition to select a wine label especially created for the institution. This year, the Mendoza Stock Exchange celebrated its 80th year of existence, and as a result, many of the label entries reflect this commemoration. It was a wonderful way to wrap up our stay in this city.
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  • Day 26

    More Alfajores, Please

    November 11, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    With ever-tightening waistbands on our pants, Brenda and I have vowed to curb our Alfajores habit, limiting our consumption of the sweet treats to one per week. Because of all the money we're saving by not buying dozens of the supermarket variety Alfajores, we now splurge on the premium brands for our Friday afternoon indulgence. So now, instead of paying fifty cents CDN for one, we're shelling out $1.25. We tried two varieties each from prize winning producers Entre Dos and Portal del Viento. In the end, we're not convinced they're worth the extra pesos. We need to find a pastry shop that makes and sells them fresh. Yeah....that's the ticket!

    My obsession with this Argentine equivalent of crack led me to do some internet research where I learned that on October 7, 8 and 9th, the 24th annual Alfajor festival was held in Cumbre, just north of Cordoba. Missed it by THAT much.

    Not only that: there is also the Campeonato Mundial Del Alfajor (The Alfajor World Cup) which, next March, will be held in the southern beach resort town of Mar del Plata. Even if Spanish isn't your thing, check out the website: https://mundialdelalfajor.com/
    On that site I learned that seventy Alfajores are consumed in Argentina each second. That's 6,048,000 EVERY SINGLE DAY!!!

    Hmmm...March is only a month and a half past my planned departure date. What if...... Nah, I'd have to buy a second seat for the plane ride home.
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  • Day 27

    Hasta La Vista Mendoza

    November 12, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    As much as Mendoza found a way into our hearts over the twenty-one days we spent there, tourists and Mendocinos alike have expounded on the beauty and joyfulness of Córdoba, 688 kilometers to the northeast.

    And so this morning we hopped onto an 8:00 AM bus headed toward our next Argentine adventure in Córdoba. We initially considered flying, but on our ride from Santiago to Mendoza, we found the Argentine bus system to be both comfortable and efficient. Add in the convenient downtown to downtown route and 80% saving over airfare pricing and the decision to bus it was a no-brainer.

    Sadly, because we're heading east, away from the Andes, the vistas are considerably less interesting than our last bus ride, but we have plenty of books on our Kindles, movies on the laptop and blogs to write to entertain us.

    As we left Mendoza this morning we both felt this is not farewell, but rather until we meet again.
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  • Day 28

    The Trouble With Sunday

    November 13, 2022 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Argentina, like many countries we visit, takes Sunday as a day of rest. Which, of course, is bad news for travelers arriving in a new city late on Saturday evening because you can pretty much forget about stocking up on staples until Monday morning.

    Cordoba is no exception. After a scouting trip through Sarmiento Park (looking for running trails) we went off in search of some fruit for breakfast. Of course, most of the fruit stores, except for the really overpriced ones, were closed. On the other hand, there was no shortage of cafés, bakeries or pastry shops.

    We managed to resist the evil, sweet temptations glistening at us through shop windows until we walked past a tiny shop with a sign that simply read,"La Mejor Medialuna del Pais 707". Inside was the Argentine version of an UberEats driver picking up several orders and a local woman ordering a box full of goodies. The shop is so small, we had to wait outside until one of them left.

    A medialuna is a small, lightly sugar-glazed croissant, and this little shop proudly claims to sell the best ones in the country! Our only prior exposure to them was from a package of them we bought at the Carrefour supermarket bakery section in Mendoza, which we thought were pretty darn good.

    Now I can't claim to be an expert on Medialunas, but judging from the short time it took for me and Brenda to devour our baker's half dozen, the ones from 707 could well be the best Argentina has to offer.
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