III. AUS - Tassie 2/East: Cockle Cr - EN

Tu, 31.01. Cockle Creek - Hartz Mt NP - Bruny Island
In contrast to the weather forecast we woke up very early to pretty heavy rain - which meant having to be flexible and to change plans as a 5-6h hike in soaking rain did not seem too appealing for us :P
Tassie, we love you for the nice landscapes in particular but the weather could be better - especially in summer :D
Our originally planned Fishers Point Lighthouse and South Coast Bay Walk was thus been changed to a small walk to Whale Point which was also very interesting. It is the most southern point that can be reached by car in Australia and Antarctica is closer than Cairns; indeed it is only the southern top of New Zealand as well as Southern Chile and Argentina which are a bit more south. It is an unprotected place which also explains the strong winds and the extreme weather and where whale huntings took place in former times - within a short period of time the Southern Right Whale was reduced from 100,000 to only about 1,000 left today, mainly because of the oil.
After sleeping at Recherche Bay we took an alternative route along Sunken Rock Bay and many sailing boats back via Tassie's Forest Town Geeveston and some lookouts towards Hartz Mt NP.
We did some hikes there but the one to Lake Esperance was too long in this weather. We thus saw Lake Osborne, Arve Falls and Waratah Lookout.
After Huonville we then drove along the ocean via Cygnet, Verona Sands, Middleton, Woodbridge to Kettering where we took the 15m ferry to Bruny Island In the late evening. It is the so called Bruny Time and the island is known for wildlife such as seals and penguins, beautiful beaches, enchanted forests and beautiful scenery. It also offers a wider range of local food such as cheese, cider, oysters, berries, honey, raw and smoked Atlantic salmon. The island is about the same size than Singapore but with only 650 i/o 5,5mio habitants. That night we slept at Cloudy Corner next to Cloudy Bay within wallabies.

We, 01.02. Bruny Island
Having enjoyed the best bush toilet so far, including view to Cloudy Bay in the morning, we went to South Bruny NP to see Cape Bruny Lighthouse and Quiet Bay Courts Island.
At Adventure Bay, Grass Point and Penguin Island we then went for the nice 2,5h Fluted Cape Walk before visiting Truganini Lookout at the Neck - some steep steps which are worth the effort based on a 360* view on both islands.
After that we drove north to Dermes and Kelly's Point Bull Bay, took the ferry at Roberts Point in the late evening and drove via Kingston and Taroona back to Hobart.

Th, 02.02. Hobart - Port Arthur/Tasman NP
In Hobart we went to the famous Mount Wellington im the morning: a super steep drive which was worth the effort considering the very nice scenery of mountain ranges, lakes, sea and Hobart - and again I had to think of New Zealand, this time it reminded me of the view from Queenstown. However, I experienced the strongest winds of my life there, with 7*, 75% humidity and 72km/h wind speed/102 - you can hardly talk or walk and it was incredibly cold, even the car was shaking :P
After that we visited the Female Factory, an institution where female convicts from Europe, mainly UK were brought.
We left Hobart via Tasman Bridge, had a look at Richmond Bridge, Oz oldest and still in use bridge and drove until Port Arthur.
We saw the World Heritage Site with a lot of history as well as Remarkable Cave at Crescent Bay.
In the evening we treated ourselves with French Crêpes, saw some wallabies and hoped for the Southern Lights at night which we unfortunately did not see.

Fr, 03.02. Port Arthur/Tasman NP
In the morning we went to Fortescue Bay in Tasman NP and did a 2-3h hike to Canoe & Bivouac Bay. It was a really nice relaxed walk along the beach including sounds of waves. At Canoe Bay we then spotted the ship wrack and penguin-looking birds on top of it.
Via another but this time pretty bad gravel road we continued to Waterfall Bay to see Tasman Blowhole, Tasman Arch, Devils Kitchen, Pirates Bay at Eaglehawk Neck as well as Dog Line and Tasman Lookout.
On our way to Swansea we had the worst gravel road so far with a lot of big holes - rollercoaster feelings and free massage :D
After that we drove via Marion Bay Lookout through the Wielangta State Forest and Mayfield Conservation Area to Rocky Hills.

Sa, 04.02. Wineglass Bay/Freycinet NP
The East Coast is in general a lot warmer and sunnier.
Apart from Swansea there is also Llandaff which strongly reminded me of Wales and my studies.
We then finally arrived at Coles Bay, the starting point to the famous Wineglass Bay - another highlight.
We had a nice 4-5h hike to Wineglass Bay Lookout, Wineglass Beach and Harzards Beach. It was along super nice beaches with crystal-clear turquoise water and we relaxed for about 2h inclusive sun bathing and short swim - well, the water is just too cold ;)
After a short 20m walk to Cape Tourville Lighthouse we visited Sleepy Bay Lookouts, drove along a nice, only for 4WD useable road to Bluestone Bay and Whitewater Wall before we reached Bicheno in the late evening via Friendly Beaches and the Great Eastern Drive.

Su, 05.02. Bicheno - The Gardens/Bay of Fires
In Bicheno we visited another blowhole where you can also see penguins at night.
From there we then drove to Douglas Apsley NP and did a short walk to Apsley River Waterhole.
In 4 Mile Creek we stopped at Ironhouse ViewPoint before driving the Great Eastern Drive along the ocean via Blanche Beach and Perun Dunes to St Helens. It is a small cute town and with Skeleton Point and Bay the starting point of the Bay of Fires Conservation Area - another and last highlight. It was named after the red fires that were made by the Aboriginals in former times. Along The Gardens Road we enjoyed the view of all the bays and beaches: Binalong Bay and Beach, Round Hill and Jeanerett Beach, Swimcart Beach, Cosy Corner, Sloop Rock, Taylor Beach and finally camped directly on Swimcart Beach - with an absolute incredible pink-redish sunset including double rainbow :)))

Mo, 06.02. Ansons Bay/Eddystone Point - Beauty Poi
In the morning we then continued to Ansons Bay, a remote village in the north of Bay of Fires. From Eddystone Point Lighthouse you can see the whole Bay of Fires.
Along the Forester Kangaroo Drive we indeed saw some of the Giant Kangaroos of Tasmania.
During our lunch break in Mt William NP we then made a new friend with Walter, the Bennet Wallaby, really nice and not shy at all - he was even waiting for us and sitting behind the car after our 1,5h hike ;)
After that we still went to Cape Barren and Musselroe Northern Point Lookout from where we could see a wind farm.
We then already headed north via George Town - after Sydney and Hobart the third oldest settlement in Australia, founded in 1804 - and Low Head as well as Tamar Valley Wine Region back towards Launceston, staying near Beauty Point for the night.

In total, we made 3,700km in 2 weeks or 15 days and I spent 428 AUD - that is 214$=150€/w or around 30$ =20€/d; below budget and 300$ of it was just for fuel, 30$ for the two ferries, 65$ for food and the remaining balance for others such as NP pass, entrance fees etc ;)Read more