Valparaiso, Day 2

We began our second day in Valpo with a visit to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda’s third house. Like the first two, this house was a reflection of his personality — quirky, filled with collected objects, and built to entertain. The views from this house are incredible, sitting high atop Cerro Florida. From the living room, the bedroom, and his study, all of Valpo stretches out below — ports, houses, hills and valleys. His favorite chair sits near a window, and the dining room has views which allowed Neruda and his guests to enjoy the fireworks set off each New Year’s Eve. And, of course, there was a separate bar area, from which he dispensed libations of his own creation. Honestly, he was probably a very difficult guy, but his zest for life and embrace of his friends is something that I can truly get behind. Arie was really taken with his attitude, and I think that building a bar at the River House is a future project!

After leaving the house, we began winding our way down the hills of Valpo. We happened upon a little macaroon store, called Septima, and stopped for coffee and a snack. While Maya’s macaroons are better, the combinations of flavors was quite unusual. We enjoyed the stop and soldiered on down the hills.

As we descended, we saw a huge variety of murals. Again, some of the art is stunning and the playful attitude that they bring to Valpo is totally infectious.

No trip to Valparaiso is complete without riding the Ascensors, which are a cross between a funicular and an elevator. These contraptions, which were built in the very early 1900s, travel up and down the hills, allowing passengers to traverse parts of the city, while avoiding a few staircases. We took advantage of this mode of transportation whenever possible, but frequently found ourselves at the Ascensor Reina La Victoria, which was built in 1902. At the top fo this ascensor is a slide which is enjoyed by children and adults alike, including Arie.

We have enjoyed Valpo and I totally understand why people from across the country and the globe choose to settle here.Read more