Let’s bring Sauna into Africa

december 2019 - februari 2021
South Africa to Germany – at least a try. Läs mer

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4x4, Camping, Vänskap, Natur, Fotgrafering, Självinsikt, Enbart resor, Semester, Vildmark, Vilda djur
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  • 776gilla-markeringar
  • Of cows and shoats

    6 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    The whole idea of getting here is to visit my personal Maasai warrior Alamayani in his village Lembapuli. I get introduced to the huge family and offered to sleep in a Maasai hut :-D The chairman takes his time to welcome me and I even meet Alamayani's 100 years old grandma! It is a pretty awesome privilege to be here in this natural environment without any touristic setting. I did not expect them to be Christians as they start to pray in the evening for my well-being and the success of my travels. Woah!

    Alamayani has three daughters and two boys, his dad two wifes. All members are interleaving amazingly in their every-day habits of caring about the kids, the cattle and the household. They prepare meals in their simple, lightless huts over open fires without any chimney. The smoke just accumulates inside and exits through the entrance gap. This is also the place where we sleep and all my stuff smells like bacon the next morning :-D
    In the morning and evening we have herbal tee based on fresh milk and simple ugali or rice. Though, on my arrival a chicken has to leave its soul to the gods of the holy frying pan ...

    The next morning I get a tour around the village where the brotherhood shows me some 10-20 medicinal herbs in the bush. I taste all of them and feel a bit funny after this episode. It is truly amazing how they integrate in their surrounding nature. Every piece of bush and land has its purpose. The less important shrubs they cut for tooth brushes :-P
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  • Pushing rains uphill

    8 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Again I climb into the Usambara mountains and join two other overlanding Germans, Jutta and Gerd, in Lushoto at the Paradise Eco Lodge where we are hosted by Uwe from Germany who is living here with his Tanzanian wife, 3 kids and his mom. With me I bring rain for the next three days.

    Jutta and Gerd are travelling in their mobile home, an old Bundeswehr Kategorie-1 4x4 truck (13-litre air-cooled V8 diesel), through the world without any time schedule and within the last 4-5 years they managed to get from Germany around the Arabic peninsula not further than down to here. Wonderful! :-D They tell me many valuable things about the coming countries up north on my planned route and also motivate me to think about Oman. I enjoy family breakfasts, lunches and dinners and finally continue "back home" to Mambo View Point over Easter.

    Check out Jutta's and Gerd's website: https://im-kat-zuhause.jimdofree.com
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  • The decision has been made

    12 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    "Tits, or destiny?!" his apostle asked as they united again. "Tits!!" Cheesus cheered, still feeling a bit dizzy from his short trip through hell. And off they went to teach mankind all the different ways of Metal we worship today.

    In a similar way my adventure could have continued under different circumstances but history's random function is just about to introduce a yet untold episode into the current testament and, as usual, a project's milestone has to be postponed.

    After three weeks of struggling I see little perspective in holding my position here. All borders northwards are closed and no visas are being issued. Further, April's emerald season reveals more and more of its wet and muddy face wherever I try to escape. Moving around inside of Tanzania becomes uncomfortable. Shipping my car out from here would kill the rest of my budget and is hardly possible at all right now. The flights out of Tanzania have been reduced to one company and rumors are that also these will be stopped soon due to lack of passengers. Waiting longer I will risk to get stuck indefinitely which would lead to a deadlock because there would be no possibility to get me and the car back home in time. I rather try to "rescue" my remaining two months and return later with a perspective to continue.

    This lazy day ends with Coq au Vin and Polish buraczki, yum yum!
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  • The decision has been unmade

    14 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Booked a flight back home for April 16th on 10th. On 11th the Tanzanian Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA) locked down the airspace for commercial civil flights which was not well communicated through the media. First public notifications on that appeared on 12th. On 13th in the morning Ethiopian (I booked through their partner Lufthansa) still listed my flight as bookable and its status as "green". So I quickly descended from Mambo into Dar in a 10-hours cruise. Even on 13th in the afternoon I was still able to prepone my flight from the 16th on the 14th on the telephone, just to increase the chance of catching a flight. And now, on 14th in the morning, all the world seems to know that all flights are suspended since 11th, except for Lufthansa. I phoned them again to tell them "Yeah, boys, look, your flight is no more.". "Oh, thanks for the info Mr. Michael.". They checked in some kind of "2nd system" and there they found that it is not scheduled any more. Surprise. Can anyone tell me why this information flow is so damn difficult in our digital era and why I as a customer have to hassle with it myself?

    I have to admit that last week the German embassy pushed very clearly to get on the soonest flight possible. As if they knew of the coming lockdown. There will be no further repatriation flights because we had the possibility to hop on a regular Ethiopian flight for several weeks until now. I can follow that but still would have expected some announced deadlines. Next time I know better ;-)

    I will wait 1-2 more days here at Eckhard's place where I would have left the car. Then I probably will be ascending back into Usambara mountains to move into a cozy cottage with Kilimanjaro view. Eckhard moved to Dar 40 years ago and was running a truck workshop until 4 years ago. And bet what? He is from Brauni-Braunschweig. An epic facial expression he had when he read my number plate yesterday :-D
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  • Caught in the mist

    23 april 2020, Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    A week ago I arrived back home in Mambo where I moved into a tiny cottage. Every day I wake up at 0630 to glimpse in the direction of Kili but Kili is hiding most of the time and I fall asleep again. The night guard fires up the water oven after 0700 and I can enjoy a hot shower some 30 mins later. Most of the time I am covered in clouds and it is quite fresh (below 20 Celsius) with full air humidity which makes all bed sheet and things moist. Rainy season at its high tide, there is no escaping. One sunny day I had where I planted a small pine tree next to the main building.

    On sunday I was put on the waiting list of a Dutch repatriation flight to Amsterdam which is leaving today. I obviously did not get a seat and also I was very disappointed with the communication flow because the notifications have been sent yesterday where I would not have been able to get back to Dar in time anyway. Told this to the embassies on Tuesday already ...

    Two times I was asked to pull Philipp out of the mud as he got stuck with the organisation's car. That was fun! My Toyota is a tank and simply does not care about clumsy terrain. Philipp is a German volunteer working for the local NGO JamiiSawa in establishing a water board for the whole Usambara mountain region because the current situation is pretty chaotic (fucked up I would name it). He is surveying data about water sources in the forest, pipelines and about reservoirs and pumps near the villages. As destiny calles for me, I help him to bring all the geodata together in QGIS and will make another GIS warrior out of him. He did not realise yet but he is very motivated in working on his new profession :-D He studied industrial engineering in Braunschweig (lol) and is subscribed to an online master's of environmental systems in Berlin now. I am slowly soaked into the activities of JamiiSawa as well.

    We made pierogi twice and today we are working on the third badge, this time with cabbage. For lunch there is barszcz ukrainski and the next days gołąbki will complete our menu. There is no way to stop Dagmara in her business. I just got freshly baked cinnamon rolls served =)
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  • Strange creatures everywhere

    2 maj 2020, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Days pass by like pieces of a bar of chocolate. I didn’t have good chocolate for months though! Two weeks since I returned here and in a few days I have to extend my visa again. I can spend a whole day chasing the dogs or petting the cat, watching the clouds or letting a chameleon climb from my sleeve through the beard on my head. Strange creatures everywhere. Lizards eating spiders half of their own size, for example. In the invasive black wattle trees I found a caterpillar carrying several tiny, vertical cocoons on its back. Nobody knew what that was. I did some research. It turns out to be a caterpillar which has been blessed by a parasitoid wasp of the Braconidae family. Theses wasps lay eggs under the skin of caterpillars. The larvae then feed on the caterpillar’s juices while the caterpillar keeps marching on and harvesting the plants of his desire. Finally, the larvae exit his body and build their cocoons on his outside while he continues his daily business. Here we go. I put the caterpillar in a box and made him my experiment. His name is Donald.

    Meanwhile I planted a few more trees and enjoy the extraordinary food. Eggs on home-made bread, tomatoes and cheese, tons of bush avocado, local orange marmalade, fresh juices and cereals with yoghurt for breakfast. Spinach pies, Polish gołąbki, self-made pasta or potato salads and rich soups for lunch and/or dinner. Banana or guava bread with coffee and chai masala in between.

    One day Jutta and Markus on two German KTM motorbikes came for a coffee. They travel "from north to south", stay in Lushoto right now and were on a day trip around the mountains. As it gets colder Philipp and I spend the evenings at the fire and I regularly use my oven in the cottage. I like to sit in my bed and do crappy stuff on the computer, like writing this blog post, while listening to Stevie Ray Vaughan, Steve 'n' Seagulls, Snarky Puppy or Slagsmålsklubben ;-) Now and then I support the local organisation with geodata expertise and empower the people with QGIS. Preferably also from my bed office. On Monday I will restart working remotely in Germany in far-from-home-office style. Exciting!
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