Let’s bring Sauna into Africa

Desember 2019 - Februari 2021
South Africa to Germany – at least a try. Baca selengkapnya

Daftar negara

  • Uganda
  • Kenya
  • Tanzania
  • Zambia
  • Botswana
  • Namibia
  • Afrika Selatan
  • Tampilkan semua (9)
Kategori
4x4, Berkemah, Pertemanan, Alam, Fotografi, Penemuan jati diri, Perjalanan solo, Liburan, Gurun, Margasatwa
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  • For export only

    8 Februari 2021, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    On my way I find a Robusta coffee plantation (CEED) which is an interesting community project set-up by US Aid in conjunction with a religious conspiracy around 20 years ago. They are not expecting any tourists but I get a brief tour anyway. The coffee beans are harvested in dark colour and classically sun-dried where they turn brownish-black. Further processing is done in Hoima and main selling in Kampala. Other than Arabica coffee plants which are imported from Ethiopia, Robusta grows natively in Uganda – especially around Kibale forest – and has a long tradition. It seems that every farmer has always some of these coffee bushes growing between his bananas etc.Baca selengkapnya

  • Shit

    9 Februari 2021, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After loosing precious time in Fort Portal because I am blended by unmet expectations and apart from that I fill up my tank without having enough cash, I find a wonderful community campsite at Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve in the Kyatwa Volcanic Field. Wah! Just in time for sunset. What a pretty, clean, grassy place surrounded by tall trees with black-and-white and red colobus monkeys and vervets. I am warmly welcomed by Good (later I will also meet a girl named Fortunate and a soldier called Innocent) who works here for several years and park the car under one of these trees next to the ridge which steeply descends into the crater lake. There is a path down to the water with a boat, bathing possibility and many places to hang my hammock. The trees are full with colourful birds and I can spot Ross's and Great Blue turacos for the first time. Yeah! Until now most of all my visited camps were run-down due to the lack of tourists but not this one even though I am the only foreign guest. Locals like to hang out here for a swim or dinner. The staff is young, fresh, friendly, passionate and the whole place looks very alive but calm and cozy. The campsite has been established more than 30 years ago by a European couple and is now in religious hands. Wonderful climate to hang out for at least a whole day which I need to work up on all the mapping I have done during the previous days of exploration. Hence, a nice day with the laptop in my hammock down at the lakeside. The colobus monkeys harvest only leaves and basically stay in the trees for all the time without interfering with me even tough they are not afraid to sit on the branches next to me. The vervet monkeys prefer a human’s diet and are very clever in trying to steal from my rations. They go totally crazy for bananas! They sit down next to me and patiently take single pieces from my hand. It is more funny than annoying because they never stay longer than for an hour in the mornings and continue their neighbourhood route in search of food. In the evening they come back and play in the trees. Outside of this tiny nature reserve monkeys are generally non-existent because people hunt them down for meat and for protection of their crops and fruits in the fields. The campsite managers established a banana plantation dedicated only to the vervet monkeys in order to keep their population stable in this area. They also had many avocado trees but unfortunately the colobus monkeys did not only eat their leaves but also the bark which killed all trees. This experiment emphasizes what happens when you try to introduce plants into an ecosystem where they are not necessarily native ;-)

    The first night I wake up at 0500 in the morning because somebody is throwing “things” at my car. Later on at 0630 “things” get really tricky because they also get wet and sticky. Apparently two football teams of colobus monkeys decided to have their morning toilet just above my car. And sleeping with open windows results in being shitted and pissed all over from the outside and the inside. My car quickly starts to stink like a festival toilet. The first time during these two months I feel like having reached my final destination, yet another home! It’s the first place where I really think that I will be coming back another day. Good helps me with cleaning the car the next day :-p
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  • More on drugs

    10 Februari 2021, Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    At the edge of Kibale Forest I search for traces of the Kibale Forest Coffee Project and find a guy to show me around. Unfortunately, without prior announcement we cannot visit many places and also my time is short.

    But first we visit a nice tea plantation. Each professional plugger manages to harvest 50-250 kg of leaves per day which is a lot and will satisfy the Indian plantation owners but the worker gets just 71 UGX (0,02 EUR) per kg. Again, most of it is exported, all is non-organic industry and nobody knows why Indians import East African tea. They all produce only broken black tea. There is no such thing as "green tea in whole leaves" or "single origin tea" or any quality label at all. Somewhat boring.

    The coffee (Robusta) in turn is growing scattered between outer forest trees and banana plants and processed in organic ways. In order to keep the animals from leaving Kibale Forest and securing their crops the locals plant bands of coffee, tea, pepper and tobacco at the forest boundary. All these crops are not eaten by the wild things. Additionally, in order to keep elephants from raiding around they establish bee hives because somehow elephants don't like bees around their ears and return into the forest. This is mainly financed by the national park fees. Interesting! But the coffee marketing could be improved. Difficult to buy in the place, I don't know where all of it is going nor the locals seem to know. Also the coffee processing is inefficient. They do this home-roasting on fire but with that you cannot process large quantities after a harvest. Also the roasting is very inhomogeneous. I bought a pack of which more than half of the beans are coal - crushable to powder between my fingers - and the others are still light brown. This is not tasty. Grinding is another issue. There are no grinders around. The people totally freaked out when I showed them my Turkish-style hand grinder. They even did not have any clue how such a thing works. I see some potential ...
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  • Rwenziori

    11 Februari 2021, Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Unfortunately my time is running out. I think that compared to all previous hiking options until now – Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Mt. Elgon – the Rwenziori Mountains in the west of Uganda would be the most fulfilling choice. I will leave this spot “for the next time” and just drive up as far as I get in order to spend a last cool night in the mountains before starting my returning hurry to Dar es-Salaam. Up here at the slopes they also grow Robusta mixed with Arabica coffee and I found at least two big washing stations which are not open to the public. There is also a charity-backed coffee place and a fancy brass sculpture museum which offers me local coffee. Yum yum!Baca selengkapnya

  • Michi for lunch or cow?

    12 Februari 2021, Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Southern Uganda, pretty uninteresting. Many people around and all are growing plantains, these green East African Highland bananas, partially scattered with coffee bushes in-between. Must be the main agricultural region here. I want to sleep on a village’s football pitch but a local security officer insists in deposing me in the village centre next to the police station because we are bordering the influence of a cannibalistic tribe and he is worried that they never tasted white flesh before. There is litter and cow shit all around my car but it still stinks of Colobus monkey pee anyway, so it seems to integrate perfectly. The night is noisy and short. The cannibals would have been the better option.

    In the morning on the opposite site some of these beautiful Ugandan cows are loaded onto trucks and are beginning their journey to cow heaven in Kampala. I very much like the Ugandan street cuisine which is more diverse than what I know from Tanzania and Kenya. The beef from these free-grazing cows is so damn soft, juicy and tasty! You mostly get just 2-4 smaller chunks bathed in a thick, intense broth which serves as the main flavouring component of the huge side dish of maize porridge, rice or matoke (cooked, mashed green bananas). Additionally, beans or cabbage and fresh juice for lunch.
    But for my breakfast I manage to find a half-litre mug full of chai and a rolex. Rolex! The best! Why don’t Kenya and Tanzania have this awesomeness?? Its base forms one chapati, an Indian-style, pan-fried, flat wheat bread, like a pancake but different. In Kenya, Tanzania and eastern Uganda they use whole-grain flour, here in the south-west rather plain white flour. On top of this chapati they put an omelette of two fried eggs with onions, peppers, tomatoes and sometimes avocado and a pinch of salt. Then they simply roll it to the form of a big cigar. Off I go!
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  • Thundering cliffs above Victoria

    13 Februari 2021, Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Bukoba, the first big centre on Tanzanian side is my destination. Surprisingly nice, big but calm and very friendly atmosphere! I am charmed and think that it must be the only city in Tanzania where all people I talk to understand English. Wow. I even manage to get my personal, Michi-registered SIM card (finally!!!) which all other Tanzanian places before never accomplished. Also a new 12-month insurance for leaving behind the car in Dar. And a good lunch in the public police canteen. This must also be Tanzania’s capital of efficiency. I never got so many things done within 2 hours in this country. Would have taken 2 days anywhere else.
    The lakeside campsites are all washed away due to the increased water level of lake Victoria and I drive to some elevated cliffs not far away which are the perfect spot for the approaching night! Yeehaaw! Around me just grass, the ruins of a never finished hotel, an orthodox church to the south and a seminar and bishop’s seat to the north. I have read many down-turning things about that lake but this western side is very idyllic which does not change while moving further south. Late in the evening the ferry to Mwanza departs and squeezes between thousands of small fisher-boat lights. The bay of Bukoba is partly visible from my spot. I expect to be woken up by an epic sunrise but instead wake up by the thunders and lightnings of a distant storm above the lake, half an hour before sunrise. Equally epic!

    After packing my stuff and getting ready I discover a flat rear left tyre. Ha, a thick nail! The first flat one on these BFGoodrich tyres after 27,454 km, finally! I was about to think that they must be a miracle after what I was throwing at them. The front wheels I already swapped with my spare ones after approx. 18,000 km, but the rears haven’t been touched since Germany. They are well-worn already but today’s air must have escaped just now during morning cliff coffee because I have not noticed any tilted car when waking up. Finally I can experiment with my fancy tyre repair kit: remove the nail, widen and clean the hole, insert rubber sealant, done. Luckily the nail is exposed in a way that it is facing me in a perfect angle
    and I do not have to move the car much nor to unmount the wheel. Still, as it requires much more force than I have expected to push the sealant in, I get a free morning workout session in the same run. (The guys on the tool promotion videos must all be bulls with double my
    body mass and/or they do not demonstrate it on heavy-duty tyres and for them it looks as easy as pushing a knife into butter :p) But I consider my workout a solid mission because for the next 540 km on dirt, tar and a lot of rain no air escapes and the car runs as usual. Brilliant!
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  • Advances in real-world tyre application

    14 Februari 2021, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    What the f ... nail? After lunch I just discover another nail by incident while approaching the car from behind. Now in my rear right tyre and on the inner side which sucks for a quick fix. Because I am not loosing any air and the nail looks as if it has resided there for quite some time, I drive 15 km out of town and in a shady place without people I remove the wheel to get my hands on. The nail did not penetrate the wall and is sitting horizontally in the rubber tread. How the hell is that possible? Must have been deflected by the wall. I can easily remove it - in opposition to yesterday's nail - and without loosing air I decide that there is no need to do anything more even though some of the tyre's wire mesh shines through the penetrated surface and I felt it when pulling the nail. I categorise this under "advanced real-world application outside the sterile laboratory environment" and will carefully observe the tyre's performance on the following 200+ km of soft dirt track where speed will most probably not exceed 60 kph anyway.Baca selengkapnya

  • But!

    14 Februari 2021, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Thanks to the recent rain,
    the view is great, but
    what was once a road 
    now is pain.

  • Last night in the wild?

    15 Februari 2021, Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Surprisingly beautiful landscape along this dirt road. Have to sleep here instead of driving further in direction of ugly Dodoma! :p