Miraz to Sobrado Dos Monxes, Spain

Woke up this morning trying to see how the foot/leg felt before deciding if I taxi 10km and walk the rest. I overheard at breakfast from Jürgen (from Port Orchard, Wa!) and the proprietress that the route today was very steep and strenuous. My book said different. I checked my app and Gronze, 2 sources I use, and nothing indicated anything crazy, the only thing intimidating was that it was 16 miles. I was dying after 10 the day before. All sources also said no services along the way, so once I committed, there was no backing out. I ate, took my ibuprofen, tried to tape my foot, layered the toe socks and merino wool socks, and it felt awful and painful. Like someone kicked me in the shin down low. Frustrated, I took the wrap off, socks back on, still painful to the touch. I was about to say forget it because if I was hurting that bad and I hadn’t even started walking. How was 16 miles going to feel? Then I noticed the cuff of the toe sock was hitting right where the most pain was felt. Ok so my toe socks have been the best thing ever. No blisters at all in a month and I attribute it to those silly looking things. They are the best invention ever for hiking. But, they were aggravating it, so off they came and I put the merino alone back on. That felt 50% better. Then my meds and cream kicked in and I was like hey I think I can do this. “Momma” Holly was looking at me with skepticism and didn’t like the idea of me walking today because she knows the pain I’ve been in. She said she wasn’t going to sway me one way or the other, but I knew she would have rather seen me not suffer and take a day off. Once I got the relief I did, I decided I was going for it. Told her I may go slower and may want extra breaks. A gal we met at breakfast from the Netherlands (but originally from Estonia), named Meelike, asked if she could walk with us, we of course said yes, and the morning flew by as we learned more about her and we talked about our lives too. She was an absolute joy. She has wanted to abandon ship for awhile now. I noticed her limping a bit and asked her what her issues were..she said nothing physical, but that she has struggled to not give up. She’s not enjoying it at all. She’s done the Frances and Portuguese routes, but this one is so difficult, plus she’s traveling alone so that may be part of it too. We talked about why we were all doing the Camino, most people have a ‘reason’ and she said she lost her father last August. I told her I too lost my dad last August. She said, “Don’t tell me it was on the 13th.” I replied, “Yes, it was the 13th, the day after my birthday”. We both just starred at each other in disbelief and then hugged with watery eyes. So surreal. Crazy we met and had this connection. Conversation shifted to other things, but I felt a bond to her very quickly. I like her. She’s interesting and very funny. Pretty soon the kilometers were clicking by and like I said, we didn’t anticipate a coffee stop, but happened upon 2. The first was at an albergue and the 2nd was at a chicken farm. Very humble home with chickens everywhere. It was rather nasty, but what the heck, I’m ordering a coffee, not a chicken sandwich. We sat there and giggled at it being the most memorable coffee stop we’ve had! Then we saw Anton (South Africa) and Alan, originally South Africa but I think he lives in New Zealand now. We haven’t seen them since Bilbao (bed bug nightmare night). Didn’t think we’d see them again, they are strong and fit and thought they were surely in Santiago by now. It was great to see them and catch up, funny guys. Probably the last we see of them since Alan catches his flight home Sunday, the day we arrive in Santiago. I creamed up my leg and took more pills and got back on the road. Still feeling pretty good. Not perfect at all, but I felt alright. Then the last 5Km the pain really hit another level. If I walked a certain way it would send sharp deep pain through my leg. I can handle pain, but this made me stop in my tracks and holler a little. I told the girls I was going to take it slow, hang back, and take my time. They’d get up ahead and then wait for me to catch up. But, I made it, and I’m so glad I did it. I’m out of ibuprofen, so luckily I found a pharmacy when we got to town so I could replenish. Holly and I checked into our room, showered, and she went to laundromat. So sweet to take that chore off my plate, once again. While our clothes were doing their thing we went across the street and had dinner. At 5:30!! Didn’t have to wait until 8!! Meelike met us there and after dinner we all went to this very special monastery, met the super funny priest, who let us tour it after it had already closed. We also got one of the most special stamps I have in my book. So happy about that!! It was time to replenish our bags with a few food items for tomorrow and get back to the room. I’m laying backwards on my bed now with my feet elevated up on the wall. It helps a lot with the swelling. It’s the final countdown!! We have 3 days of walking left! Tomorrow is about 14 miles, the next 2 are about 12 miles each day. I’m going to try and do it and then give my body a good 2 days of rest before flying home to my awesome family and friends. I’m getting so excited to be finished. I think Holly wants to keep going!! As much as she adores her family, she has absolutely loved this and I wouldn’t doubt it if she ends up like me, doing multiple Caminos. The Camino has its way of doing that to people. Me, I’m going to say what I always say, it’s my last one. Ciao for now ❤️👣🙏🏻Read more