• shefollowsarrows
syysk. – lokak. 2023

Camino Del Norte

Walking 822km from Irun, Spain to Santiago de Compostela, Spain Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    1. syyskuuta 2023

    Wenatchee to Seattle

    28. elokuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Ready to get this trek started!! Left out of Pangborn today, arrived at Sea Tac. Hopping the pond in the morning. Excited to see Nathalie from Brussels, and super excited for Holly’s first Camino!

  • Chicago to Philadelphia

    30. elokuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    I had it all mapped out, flights, taxis, rooms, itinerary. All it took was a mechanical issue with the plane in Philadelphia that turned into a 3 hour delay to throw all our plans out the window and took me right back to the drawing board. I should’ve saw it coming. When we left the hotel in Seattle there was a fire alarm going off and a lady in the hallway saying “It was only one toke, I swear”. Smelled like she hot boxed in her room, the hallway smelled like a skunk. From Sea Tac we flew to Chicago, and waited a couple hours to board the next leg. We were boarded and after sitting on the tarmac for an hour, we had to deplane. That plane was a bucket of bolts, it was so old there was a plug for the old phones in the armrest, I was surprised there wasn’t an ashtray too!! No one offering solutions, many passengers stranded and frantically rebooking. I felt for the customer service agents, I don’t know how they deal with so many people with so many reroutes who are all frustrated. We had a choice, stick it out with our flight and follow our luggage to Philly or rebook and hope our luggage follows. We stuck with our flight and luggage. We caught a shuttle to a hotel the airline paid for around 10pm. The driver missed an exit and proceeded to do a U-turn on the highway with traffic coming. I hid my head behind Holly as he maneuvered the big shuttle bus back on track. After we not so safely made it to the hotel, we were starving and delirious. Only thing open for food was a Dennys. If you know Holly, you know she is gluten free/dairy free, so Dennys isn’t the best option, but at this time of night in the area we are in, that was the only option. We sat there and picked at our food and decided how we were going to travel to San Sebastián from Madrid because we were now going to miss that little flight that was booked separately from our main ticket. We got on the phone, rebooked our flight, paid way more than anticipated, but that was really our only option unless we wanted to spend 6 hours on a train. I had previously booked a taxi from San Sebastián to Irun, our starting point, which we were going to miss, but woke up to WhatsApp message from Felix, the taxi driver, confirming our pick up in San Sebastián. I was so happy he WhatsApp’d me because I didn’t know how to contact him. I had already chalked it up as more money lost. However, he changed our reservation, with no penalty, and will be at baggage claim holding a sign for us when we get there. I was so grateful for Felix and his flexibility. Thank you Flexible Felix. Now, it’s all sorted. Hopefully there are no more mishaps..or maybe those were just the beginning of our adventures?
    Luckily we have our backpacks and our hiking shoes with us, along with minimal toiletries like toothbrush/toothpaste, eyeliner, lotion, and my sunscreen-tinted moisturizer. Holly, on the other hand, didn’t have the glue for her eyelashes, so her Camino adventure began sooner than she anticipated! I have no hair products, not even a brush, so I look really homeless and out of place. On the Camino, we would look completely normal and fit right in! But we aren’t there yet, so it’s super awkward.
    We just want to start walking. Done with the weed smelling hotel, endless time in airports, mechanical issues on our plane, flights, the crazy shuttle driver, and muggy Philly. We leave the hotel in a couple hours to catch an evening flight across the pond and won’t get to our final destination until about 6pm, 8/31 (they are a day ahead of us). We have many more hours in airports and planes, but we aren’t alone and we have managed to figure it all out. Before long we will be walking 15-20 miles a day, and air travel will once again seem like a quick and easy way to get from point A to point B! But, not yet.
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  • American Airlines

    31. elokuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Ok American Airlines, I forgive you. ❤️

  • San Sebastián, Spain

    1. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After so many challenges getting here, we are finally here, and I think it’s the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. Enjoying this moment and will blog a little later ☀️🌊

  • Logistics..San Sebastián, Spain

    1. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today started out with a list of things to do. Find Holly was first on the list 😆 Long story, I won’t get into it, but if you ever go to the Madrid airport, don’t underestimate it!! I’ll just say, she missed the flight, and we were separated.
    We both mailed our luggage in separate cities this morning and because the P.O. didn’t open until later, there was no way I’d make it to San Sebastián at a decent hour so I taxi’d to meet Holly, who ended up in San Sebastián. Nathalie left from our room at 7:30 and walked the city (Irun) for an hour trying to find the yellow arrows to lead her out of town. Crazy. This is the Camino Freaking Norte. Paint some yellow arrows please. She walked 38 Km to San Sebastián today-my guide book says it is 26km. Her Garmin watch 38km. Tricksters. That’s super hard. She was tired, but totally enjoyed the views and met people that we will probably bump into all the way to Santiago. Holly and I sat at a beach bar and drank a couple sangria’s before going back to our shared Hostal-just us 3 in a room which is nice. Once Nathalie arrived at the Hostal we all did our laundry and then walked down to the historic center of the city to enjoy delicious pinxtos (we are in Pays Basque so they aren’t called Tapas here) The streets were lively, full of families, lovers, and friends, of all ages. So amazing. Moms and daughters walking arm and arm, the elderly out for a date night in their Sunday best. Here, I don’t think people get babysitters. If the parents are out, they are pushing strollers and kids are playing everywhere while the adults sip wine, eat, and talk. It astounds me how people aren’t concerned about kids getting kidnapped. They are playing in the center and parents don’t even look up to keep an eye on them. They trust. They feel safe.
    Tomorrow there is a severe weather warning/flash floods. Today was hot and not a sign of such weather. We will see.
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  • Yep. No way.

    San Sebastian to Zarautz, Spain

    2. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Well the weather app nailed it. We had breakfast at the Hostal and put our ponchos and gaiters on and hit the road at about 8:30. Only 21km today. We can handle anything for 5ish hours right? We are strong women, we have the kit to get us through. What’s a little rain? It’s just water.
    We hiked up, up, and up out of San Sebastián in the pouring rain, like really pouring. Thunder, lightning, and water rushing down the trail like a creek. After a couple hours we are completely soaked. It was coming down so hard we ducked under someone’s house overhang and thought we’d wait for it to lighten up. No such luck. Soaked shoes and socks are a great recipe for blisters. The longer I stood there the harder it was coming down. I looked at the girls and said ‘I’m out’. I didn’t want to slip on the rocks/mud and mess my knee up again. From that point on it was 16km with no towns. No way to get help if hurt. I felt like a loser for a minute, but then felt like I was making a smart call. We decided to knock on the door of the house we were huddled under to call a taxi. Holly has the best Spanish, so she went and knocked on the door. No answer. Nathalie said she was going to keep going, even though the thunder and crackling lightning was really intimidating her. Holly said she was with me. No need to get hurt and stranded for this. We went to find the bus stop we passed. Didn’t know the schedule or anything. Just as we were walking away, a man came out on the balcony. Elated, we asked if he could call us a cab. He agreed but came back out a few minutes later saying no one was answering, taxis are busy in the rain. He said he’d drive us to the bus stop. He opened his trunk, we threw our packs in and hopped in. I got good vibes from him. Nice man, middle aged, and so helpful. He said this rain was way too much for pilgrims and not safe. He ended up driving us all the way to Zarautz to our hostel. Bless him. I tried to give him €50 and I got the impression he was offended as he adamantly refused. Holly, on her way out of his car, left €10 in the middle console, something, but not so much to offend him. He SAVED us. So kind. It’s Saturday, raining, and I think that’s the only reason he was home. We get to the hostal and of course it’s too early to check in so we changed into dry clothes, put our sandals on and went next door for coffee. It’s a lovely place, they even had almond milk for Holly to have a hot chocolate. We felt so blessed. God is good.
    Then I broke down. I hate that our first official day went like this. The Camino presents challenges and we work through them, we don’t get a ride to the next town. I was disappointed in myself. Also, I had a really vivid dream of my Dad, who passed away last year, it was so real. He was sitting on my couch, he cried, shook his head, and said “I’m sorry, Tammy.” He looked like I’ve never seen him. My dad doesn’t cry. My dad was an unapologetic man who justified his actions/decisions, or just plain didn’t acknowledge his shortcomings. What was this dream all about? I don’t need an apology, I don’t need tears from him. But it’s messing my emotions up today especially with the rain. Shit day. We all have them. I didn’t expect this to happen so soon. My deep emotions usually start surfacing after a couple weeks on the trail, I was totally caught off guard and have been crying off and on for hours. It’ll pass, and Holly is so nice. As I was sniffling and crying like a baby, I muttered a “sorry” to her that she was witnessing my weak moment, she said “no more sorry’s for tears, they are going to come for me too”. What a doll, I’m with the right person here. Again, blessed.

    The weather looks much much better going forward the next 10 days from what I can tell, so we will get after it tomorrow morning.

    Ultreia.
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  • Zarautz to Deba, Spain

    3. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    What a fantastic start to this Camino. Not an easy one, wasn’t expecting anything easy on this pilgrimage, but I did expect beauty, and wow did I get a good dose of pretty today! My Camino legs are back!! I don’t know how accurate my Apple Watch is but is says over 17 miles. A lot of up, up, up, and then dowwwn. Trail was muddy from yesterdays downpour so the trail was quite sketchy most of the way. Even walked through a ‘creek’ up hill that wasn’t supposed to be a creek. I was taking baby steps. Can’t afford to slip or slide, because I’m like 50+. It hurts too much now! I was ahead of the girls about a quarter of the day because my stride is different and also because I’m not here to bullshit for 8 hours a day. I can’t. I love the camaraderie, but in doses. We start off in the morning, ooo and aww at all the beautiful sites and then after 5Km we break for coffee. After that my Camino legs said let’s gooo!! So I did and walked about half the day alone. It was so wonderful to have some alone time. Love my companions, but the Camino isn’t about constantly being surrounded by your comfort zone and talking 8 hours a day, it’s about being alone with yourself and letting your thoughts talk to you. Honestly I didn’t have a lot of personal things come up today because the terrain was either very steep going up or very steep going down, slippery and muddy, I was just paying attention to being safe and getting to Deba in one piece. I waited for the girls to catch up at a coffee shop about 5Km before our destination and we proceeded to walk straight down into Deba in search of the albergue. The albergue was first come, first served and they always fill up. If full, you have to walk on to the next town. We arrived in Deba about 4 and are staying in a public albergue, which is actually an old train station. It has 50 or 60 beds. Everyone is so friendly and not ‘me firsters’, as my uncle Brian used to say, so laundry and showers got done right away when we arrived. We then went to the center of this
    cute village and had some pinxtos and wine by the beach in between the washer and dryer cycles. Came back folded clothes and the volunteer hospitarlio has a gift for making bracelets. He was showing Holly and I them and offered to give us one. They are so beautiful I took one for my ankle and one for my wrist and donated to the albergue for the second one. Haven’t worn an ankle bracelet in years. In the early days Sterling used to always buy them for me, but because of skiing I ended up breaking them or not wearing them because they were dainty and I’d break them in no time. These are tough, I can hike in this one. I love the bracelet too, it sits right next to the one Jenna, my granddaughter made for my birthday .
    They serve dinner at 8 here and we were so ready for dinner by then we had some Padron peppers (omg so good) and an ensalda mixta. Typically the ensalada mixta has tomatoes, lettuce, white asparagus, tuna and red onion. No creamy dressings here, just oil and vinegar. It’s amazingly refreshing. Nathalie had calamari and Holly had lomo (ham) and French fries (chips). It was all good for us who burned about 1500 + calories. I’m probably still calorie deficit after the hike today.
    We went to a grocery store and bought food for tomorrows lunch because there are no towns to buy lunch or coffees on the way tomorrow. It’ll be a picnic day on top of mountain hopefully.
    God I love it here. We met some Canadian (Toronto) ladies 70+ who have done multiple caminos and they were so nice to talk to. Another reason I love it here, as demonstrated, Nathalie, Luba, Luca, John, Jeremy, Tony, Andres, Lisa, Jennifer, Rui, are all still in my life. We have a special bond for life. If you share a Camino with someone, you share a piece of yourself and they share a piece of themselves, and you become very close because of this special place that has a magical, safe aura that allows you to share freely. What a refreshing outlet. What a healthy outlet. Sometimes people drink together to get that bond, here it is in between breathless steps up a mountain or having a picnic on the top or over dinner. We trust each other. And what’s said on the Camino stays on the Camino. My mom always told me if you tell someone a secret, they will tell at least one person. Then that person will tell one person, and so on. There goes your secret. Not here. So it’s cleansing and pure honesty without skating around someone’s insecurities, but offering understanding and grace so they feel safe. I’ve heard things mothers/fathers have never heard about from their own children, like big stuff. What an honor to be trusted like that. I’m glad they, and I, can feel a freedom from burdens.
    While it was a really challenging day, it was gorgeous. It was amazing, and I’m getting my groove back. I can only share 10 photos, and it’s going to be hard to pick only 10. But here are the moments that made me smile.
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  • Deba to Markina-Xemein, Spain

    4. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Today was probably my hardest day of any Camino. Didn’t sleep but maybe 2 hours last night. It was hot in the room shared with like 20 people, snoring, trains coming in and out all night-the albergue we were staying at was, after all, the train station. A crying (wailing more like) man outside the window on the street around 2am, someone using power tools, the garbage collectors at probably 5am. It was awful and for someone who doesn’t write reviews, but relied heavily on them while planning our stops, I’ll definitely write one here. There were no other albergues in this town, so we were limited on accommodations. So starting out with no sleep and ohh ya I puked at about 3am for some weird reason. Maybe because how hot and stuffy it was?? So that stressed me out. Was I getting the flu? Nope, I woke up after patching together a couple of hours of sleep and we went across the street for coffee and toast before starting out. I’ve never hiked so hard for so long. We left at 7:30 and arrived at 3:30. It was continually up hill, steep, rocky, and the clay like soil thickly sticking to our poles & trail runners, but fantastic views. Expansive countryside that was just breathtaking. Uphill is my thing. I’m like a goat on hills. I don’t know how, but usually I can pass up the most experienced hikers. My legs just go. Today something told me to stick closer to the group, glad I listened because after about half way Nathalie pulled ahead of us and we didn’t see her until we arrived at the albergue. Before the last 10km Holly and I stopped for a picnic under a tree with food we had bought the night before. We took off our shoes to air out and cool off the feet and catch our breath. It was a beautiful rolling pasture land. Thank God we did. We had no idea how badly we would need that rest for the final stretch. Remember the rain we skipped out on the other day? Well the trail was full of mud and slicker than shit, for lack of a better term. Felt like a double diamond ski run, with no skis! Holly and I inched (not exaggerating) our way down this huge mountain, planting our poles to test each step. There were rocks that appeared like dirt but once we planted, the pole would slide forward telling us to try another spot. Both Holly and I have not so good knees, so personally I was terrified. But what can you do? Keep going, go slow, be careful. After what seemed like forever, and actually was, we made it to a church at the bottom of the mountain and I entered as if to ask for forgiveness for all my terrible language today! There were giant rocks in this church that they built it around. Obviously there is significance to these boulders, but I don’t have the energy for research or a history lesson right now.
    I booked this albergue in town after reading reviews, in the apps it says it is 1.5Km off the beaten path and they would offer a ride from town. Holly and I were low on fluids and said the first bar (that’s where you get appetizers and something to drink at this time of day) we came to we would park our sorry bodies, catch our breath, and call the albergue for a ride. We WhatsApp’d Nathalie, who had arrived an hour before, and she said it was a wonderful place but only one guy running it who was busy making our communal dinner. She said she thought he was coming to pick us up, but she speaks French and English, not Spanish, so she wasn’t sure. After an hour, he didn’t come so we got a taxi up to the albergue. Yes, I said up. Everything is either straight up or straight down today. We didn’t have an ounce left in us for another 1.5Km up. Totally done. Feet throbbing, back aching, hips bruised from the backpack, and of course I am dripping sweat and overheated. My watch says I did 32,253 steps, 15 miles, and climbed 147 flights of stairs, 1781 calories burned. A personal record since buying this watch a month ago.
    We are finally showered, and I’m sitting in this beautiful yard off by myself writing and decompressing. The smell of the communal dinner is cooking, and there are only about a dozen people here. It’s a small and special place. I’m have a twin bed and not a squeaky bunk. Cloth sheets, not a paper protector on a plastic mattress. Our clothes are next in the washing machine and we will then hang dry after. It’s all good. I can hear Holly socializing and laughing, so I know she is happy now. I told her at the end of the day that I was so glad we were together and didn’t just meet up at the end. We needed each other today. A lot. I don’t usually need moral support or a cheerleader, but today I needed my positive Holly. Glad I wasn’t alone. Glad she wasn’t alone. I had no idea today would be like this, but like I said, I had a feeling it was going to be one of those days, and it was. We are going to live. No blisters thanks to the most amazing invention ever, toe socks, and most importantly, no injuries. We did it. We pushed through like champs. I’ll take that pat on the back today.
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  • Holly at the end of the day!! She's done 😂The Texan that slipped in the mudNathalie, blazing that trail

    Markina-Xemein to Pozueta, Spain

    5. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Beautiful walking today, with a mixed bag of blessings. We had a quick, small breakfast at the albergue before heading out onto the winding trail that followed a relaxing creek. Some big ups and downs, of course, it’s the Norte after all. We had one really sketchy spot with a steep downhill in thick slippery mud. I was leading with about 6 behind me and I didn’t like being the leader so I carefully stepped to the middle and told people to go in front. They were following too closely and I was afraid someone was going to slip and cause a domino of everyone going down. Kinda like when you see bicyclists wreck, once one goes down, they all go down. As the last one passed, I worked my way down and then it happened, the lady in front of me slipped, landed on her backpack and butt, and her neck sprung back. I knew it was coming. Thankfully she got back up quickly and only her backpack and butt were muddy, only thing hurt was possibly her pride. Thank God. She simply said as she got up, “ohh well it’ll dry”. As we worked our way up the trail her husband, in front of her, didn’t know I was behind her, and said, “That gal who moved over made a smart move, that was really smart what she did”, I spoke up with “thank you”, he turned around, and we talked for a minute while continuing to walk. They are from Texas. Nice couple probably in their 60’s, upbeat, and so not bold and Texas like. I say that with the utmost respect for Texans, but come on, they have strong and passionate personalities. I snuck a photo as I walked behind her and as you can see, she’s a trooper walking on with mud covering her backside. So glad she wasn’t hurt, there is really no way out of the trail if someone gets hurt, they’d have to wait for EMT quite awhile. That part scares me. All the more reason to go slow and be careful with each step. Thank you Jesus for leading us out safely.
    Honestly, as intimidating as that sounds, the walk was gorgeous. It wasn’t nearly the challenge as yesterday was. I found myself saying “I love this” several times. I’m definitely in my element and loving it. Hard, yes, but the most beautiful countryside I’ve ever seen. It was really hot, 90’s, and really that was my biggest challenge of the day. I have a lightweight wash cloth that I wet down and wipe my sweat with all day and drape around my neck. It helps a lot. Often I am asked what’s the most valuable piece in my kit and typically I’ll answer that you need the right shoes and the right pack. I’m changing my answer to washcloth! It’s so refreshing. Funny thing, I had asked the gal that did my eyelashes before I left, “Does sweat affect them?” She responded with, “Do you sweat into your eyes?” I said, “Well no.” I felt silly asking that question, but now I know, yes, I do sweat into my eyes, all fricken day!!
    We are at the albergue now. All three of us are sitting at a table outside, drinking a vino tinto, Crianza from the La Rioja region, a form of muscle relaxer. Our albergue is another small, quaint place with a communal dinner. Love these. We skipped the city and I’m so grateful to be sitting at this little place. It’s quiet, besides the rooster crowing, and a few people having several beers. But, it’s safe and all good. No one is driving 😂!
    Tomorrow we go to the big city of Bilbao. Guggenheim museum is the most noteworthy place to visit. It’ll be a 25km day in the heat again (no rain, so not complaining!). Not too much time to explore, but that’s ok. Cities are a little jolting after so much quiet countryside.
    Thanks for following family and friends, you’re the best, and I love and miss you all. ❤️
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  • Pozueta to Bilbao, Spain

    6. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Wonderful stay at the albergue in Pozueta last night. Amazing communal dinner served so I was able to meet a few others I’ve been running into briefly on the trail. Guy from Iowa, Slovakia, and a guy and gal from the same city in Canada (Quebec City) who didn’t know each other until last night. There were about 10-12 in our room and it was quiet all night. Slept like a baby. We set out together this morning and walked a couple hours before arriving at the first village for food/coffee. It is really hot here. I think it got to 95 degrees, supposed to be a little hotter tomorrow but luckily we are only doing 20Km. Unbearable. I, of course researched historic weather for the whole route and found lows this time of year are 60’s and highs of mid 70’s. I feel silly for having a jacket and leggings and a long sleeve shirt in my pack!! To think i was worried about being cold on this route. We will get a mix of weather for sure but, it’ll be 80’s-90’s for the next week. We had a 300 meter climb today that about did me in and then straight down into the city. It still felt like an easy one compared to the other day where we just climbed and climbed with no towns all day. I think that day was nearly 600 meters. We were about 3/4 up the mountain and we see Iowa sitting on a bench that was in the middle of nowhere. He said he got dizzy from the hike and heat and had never had that happen to him before. He said he drank plenty of water, but, it didn’t matter, we were sweating it out faster than we could put it in. After talking to him we looked across the trail and noticed a vending machine full of several drink choices. I couldn’t believe my eyes, I thought it was a mirage! I had water, but it was warm, so this was such a nice surprise. I got an electrolyte drink, my 3rd of the day. I couldn’t get enough. It wasn’t a really beautiful hike today, we walked through towns, on pavement, exposed to the heat with little shade, so that kind of sucked.
    Bilbao is a really big city, and really beautiful. I wish i had more time here. We went to the Guggenheim, which was cool, but that is all we could fit in before it was time to feed our bodies that burned about 1900 calories today! We are definitely operating on a calorie deficiency!! There’s no way I’m taking in that many calories a day. My watch says we walked 18.77 miles and 40,585 steps. I believe it. Nathalie’s registers more, but I think hers is messed up. It always says a lot more. All I know is that it was long and hot!
    Luckily I booked a place in the old city which wasn’t located on the other end of town. Tonight we are at a hostal, but since I was booking several accommodations months ago, I was able to get a private room tonight and the other two are in bunk rooms. I really needed this. I don’t mind too much the bunk rooms, but a quiet private room is nice and I hope to do this every 5 days or so. Proper rest is super important to pull off this mileage day in and day out for a month.
    It’s 10:30 here and I need to get some sleep, good night.
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  • Bilbao to Portugalete, Spain

    7. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Tomorrow we leave the Basque Country and enter Cantabria. This trail will cross 4 regions, which is cool. All so different in their own unique way. We will be in Cantabria for about a week.
    I’ve debated whether or not to share a little story with you about last night, but decided I will. You deserve the good, bad, and the ugly, right? Wouldn’t want you to get bored 😂 Since I started doing these Camino trails 10 years ago I’ve done a ton of research. One topic that has always freaked me out was the reports of….here it goes…100% honesty…BEDBUGS. So remember last night I told you I booked a private room all to myself? It had beautiful white crisp sheets, so I didn’t need my sleep sac. The place wasn’t a USA quality hotel or anything, it was a hostal that had bunk rooms and private rooms. I woke up at 1:30 to use the bathroom and tuned on my side lamp, flipped the covers back and to my surprise, I wasn’t sleeping alone. 😬 There were bugs in the bed, on my pillow, under the bottom sheet. Probably a dozen. They come out in the dark and hate light, so I surprised them. I got up so fricken fast and went to the other side of the room where my backpack and packing cubes were and started getting my stuff together and looking through everything for any sign of them (don’t want to pick up a hitchhiker and take it with me), but didn’t see any. Still. When you see that you think they are everywhere and crawling all over you. None were on me, but I went to the shower and scrubbed the hell out of my head and body and checked myself out for bites. No sign of bites. I gathered all my things and went down to the lobby. No one was there. I sat in the corner, on a chair, knees bent, feet on my chair like someone who’d just seen the worst scary movie ever. I wanted to run. I didn’t care that it was pitch black, or that my hanging dry clothes were locked out on a balcony drying that I couldn’t access. I sent a WhatsApp group a message, thinking maybe they were being feasted on while I sat there. No answer. So there I sat. A long time. Called Sterling, grossed out and freaked him out (why is my wife calling me at 2am Spain time, what the heck happened), and then decided I really needed to sleep an hour at least, so I got my permethrin treated (twice treated) sleep sac out and covered my entire body, head and all, inside and tried to sleep. Ya right. That didn’t happen and pretty soon it was 7:00 and lady who helps run the place walked in. I peeked my head out from my sac and said “Buenas Dias, I slept here since 1:30, I was in room 51, and”before I got out the word bedbugs she knew. SHE KNEW. She immediately said she would give me a full refund. Big woop. I’m traumatized for life. They definitely know they have a problem and have yet to shut down and address it. There’s protocol for this. Close down. Fumigation. Clean. Notify other hostels down the road to watch for them to be spread. Anyways I asked her to unlock the balcony so I could get my things, the only things that were truly safe because they weren’t in that room, and she promptly did. Probably wanted me out of there quick as to not alert the others pilgrims. But, then I awkwardly sat there for a half hour until the girls came down. Nathalie saw the message and was mortified. Holly hadn’t checked it yet so I told her. I felt like quitting. I was mentally tired and pissed. I did a ton of reading about them and bites can take up to two weeks to show up. Not typically, but there’s a chance. I turned my attitude around and got on with the walk. What could I do? Although my pack was not near the bed and didn’t see any near it, I still wanted to protect my friends and other travelers who share space with me so I washed everything I have in the laundromat when I got to Portugalete. As I pulled my things out I examined everything closely, looked at the seams of my pack, everything. No sign. But, I did go to the pharmacy after laundry and got cream for it in case I discovered any bites in the coming days. Awesome. This trip has had some sort of challenge since before I left home. Frustrated, but for now, hanging in there. I’ve seen people before who have been bitten and they are covered in sores quickly. I’m hopeful and don’t want to let my thoughts go crazy and get to the point where I stop. If I’m covered in bites in the coming days, I’m definitely going home. It’s too hot and sweaty to deal with itchy bites everywhere. But, for now, I’m ok and I’m still in.
    OTHER THAN THAT, the walk was pretty flat today through industrial Bilbao and then along the beautiful Nervion River. Went 2km past where I needed to at the end of the day in 90 degree weather, so there was that. On to tomorrow. It can only get better right…….? 🙏🏻
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  • Portugalete to Castro Urdiales, Spain

    8. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    What a beautiful day!! We did 27.5km (17 miles) and made it to this charming little city. I’m sitting at the port writing and the temperature is perfect right now. It was blazing hot today, walking in 85 degrees is dang hot to walk in. But it’s pretty amazing, we are practically dead when we arrive to our destination. Then shower, no make up, no fixing hair, no perfume, no nuthin but clean clothes and wet heads that dry naturally. Ya I never do that. Maybe that’s why I like it here. Such a freedom. I’ll admit, I did put on a little tinted moisturizer to tone down my sun drenched face! Then we hit the town, find a town square and go over what is for tomorrow’s walk. And of course a €1,90 glass of vino blanco is in order to relax the muscles. We never get drunk. It’s one or two then rest and wait for that damn 8pm dinner. That’s the most challenging part to the evening, waiting for a good meal so we can go to bed. Everything is cheap. I ate breakfast for €3 this morning that included a tortilla (it’s like a frittata in a way, but no crust, just egg, potato, cheese and ham in a pie shape) and cafe Americano. I can’t get a croissant for that price at home, let alone a coffee. That part is nice. I spend so much less here. I’m not filling up my truck for $150 a week, not shopping, not buying expensive lunches and dinners. Full on 3 course dinners here are €10. It’s nuts. I actually save money by coming here. That’s what I tell myself anyways 😉
    Tomorrow is a bigger day, today was a big day, but we will go a little further so we have a short 15km day to Santander day after tomorrow, where Nathalie will go back to Belgium.
    I talked to a lady from California last night and she reminded me of an app that I have downloaded. It’s an interactive map that works without WiFi. I’ll never get lost again or go too far. This route is not like the Frances. I didn’t have to even think much on the other routes. Locals helped more, it was so much easier. I feel like I’m always needing to pay attention on this route. I don’t like that, it doesn’t allow me to just walk and let go of concerns and let things unfold. I’m hoping that gets better now with this app. I used it all day and it worked so well for us. What a relief. It’s absolutely too hot to mess up.
    Still no bites have surfaced. I’m praying that continues. I’m not freaked out anymore because if I would’ve reacted terribly to it, I would’ve by now. If I find a couple bites in the coming days, ohh well. Nothing yet though and it was an act of god I didn’t. I can’t believe I didn’t get bit. They were surrounding me. I woke up for the bathroom at the perfect time. I should’ve been feasted on. Last night at about 2am my eyes popped open, I grabbed my phone, turned on the flashlight in my sleep sac and nothing. I’ll probably do that every single night. The trauma is real.
    We’ve already done about 200km!! Woo Hoo!! Only 640K to go! What an experience so far, I can’t imagine what is to come. I’m feeling stronger. Fitter. My legs and butt are damn strong. I’m taking hills better and my endurance is way better. It’s amazing what walking, day in and day out does in hot weather!! Plus the food here is healthy. It’s not shit food with tons of condiments. Simple, but sufficient. I rarely see overweight people here. The old people walk all over the place. The portion size is just what you need, not like home when you go to dinner and have enough for lunch the next day.
    I think that’s it for now, we will walk around this beautiful town (what’s a few more kilometers?!) and then find dinner. I see a cool church in the distance I’d like to check out. Love you, miss you, peace be with you.
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  • Castro Urdiales to Laredo, Spain

    9. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Wow. We hit it hard today. We did over 30k. Nathalie’s watch says 23 miles, Hollys watch says 21 miles, mine says 20. Let’s just say we hiked a looong way, 10 hours. Had a couple stops that were about a total of a half hour. The sun was bahlazing again, so getting to Laredo was priority.
    The landscape was so beautiful. Along the beach, caught another sunrise, through pretty villages, and up and down TWO mountains today. Needless to say we high-fived big time at the end. We killed it. Right at the end of the day there were some very fit Spanish people we had crossed paths with off and on and one of the guys puked it was so strenuous. However instead of electrolytes or water at breaks, they get a beer! Note to self, no matter how good that cold beer looks 7 hours in, don’t. I saw it on the pavement. No food, just liquid. He looked bad, sick, and miserable. Me, I just looked miserable and everything on me was soaking wet. Biggest regret of the day was that we couldn’t do our laundry yesterday and I had thrown my lovely washcloth in the dirty clothes bag so I didn’t have it to use. I can’t believe how much I sweat. I can hardly get through the day without it, and here it was the longest day yet, and I didn’t have it.
    Still no bites, by the way. I have come to believe God woke me up at the perfect time for the bathroom. There is no other explanation. I was so tired and I haven’t been getting up at night for the bathroom. I sleep HARD, when street noise allows. It was a blessing and there’s no doubt about it. Guess what I do when we get to albergues first thing? Check baseboards and mattresses!! I don’t care how good the vibe is, how ‘clean’ it looks, show me the mattress. Show me behind the baseboards. By September all these places have had so many people through them. The proprietors are so exhausted. Imagine doing this 7 days a week from April-October. Not an easy job. No excuse though, this is their job and laziness can affect every other accommodation all the way down the road to Santiago de Compostela.
    Ahh Santiago. It’s a long ways away. But today I got really strong-minded and had a moment of resolve where I was like, I’ve endured way too much to give up now. I’ve conquered mountains, hot weather, aching body, bed bugs, calorie deficiency every single day, warm water (but I’ve never run out), and tears of sadness and joy. I’m doing it and I’m going to keep doing it.
    My watch says my weekly summary is 10,334 calories (average of 1722/day), 224,911 steps, 105.57 miles, 450 flights climbed. Not saying this brag, but more for my own record to look back on..and honestly it doesn’t seem like it’s very much compared to how I feel right now!
    Laundry is now done, all clean clothes to start with tomorrow. I’ll have one set soaked by 15 minutes into the walk tomorrow.
    But..guess what..Holly and I get a private room tomorrow night in Guemes. It has a pool!!!!! Looks nice and it’s €65. In the states it would be at least $200. A little indulgence after another 18 mile day. I’ll take it.
    Austin (my son) called me right when I got here today. I thought of him this morning and cried. Tried to hide it from Holly, but didn’t do a very good job of it. Walked alone for awhile and choked back the tears because I just didn’t have the energy for a full on breakdown. Love that beautiful boy. My heart breaks in a million pieces thinking of what he’s been through, what we’ve all been through, and how far he’s come. I’m so proud of him. But damn, what a hard couple years it’s been. He’s good. He’s working on himself and doing what he needs to do. So glad he called. God I needed that.
    Onward I go. Time to find food. Much love to you friends and family, know you are ALL in my thoughts and in my heart.
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  • The traffic jam I wrote about on a steep climb

    Laredo to Guemes, Spain

    10. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Another crazy difficult day! We clocked another 30Km day! No blisters for Holly and I yet, we have a system that’s working for us and we are sticking with it. Toe socks with Darn Tough Merino socks on top. I know it sounds overkill, but it has worked for me for years and I’m so glad Hollys feet are happy with it too.
    Today was pretty cool. We all walked a few kilometers and then had to take quick 10 minute ferry across and start hiking again. We did have a pretty scary little stretch from one end of the beach where we hiked straight up, very technical, no room for slipping. At one point I was on all fours dropping my foot placement just perfectly in order to make the next step. I also thought having poles were not a good idea and quickly realized that I definitely needed them to plant to test the ground before stepping. Before we headed up a local said it was very dangerous and that the trail slips away sometimes, so to be very careful. He wasn’t over exaggerating!! What made it more difficult was a group of like 8 who were older, not hikers, painted toe nails in sandals trying to maneuver in front of us. No place to pass. They were on a little day trip we think. We had 30k to knock out and they mine as well been in walkers they were going so slow. One fell, saw a couple other dirty butts, so they did too, I assume, but they were taking forever and it was so hot. We were getting a little anxious and finally Nathalie (of course she did!) shouted, “Hey move over, we have a long ways to go today”. A man shouted back “They are elderly, be patient” and she replied, “I’m not patient, come on”. Then she started saying “beep beep beep coming through on the right”, God I love this girl!! She made her point, got through the masses, and then they got a clue and moved over for several others that needed through. It was tough!! Really tough. I’m not sure why they were on that hill. A lot of other pilgrims took the road route because of the danger of falling off or slipping and getting injured. We made our way down to this huge beach and we walked for about 3 or 4km on it before getting back on a trail. I’ve never spent much time on the beaches in Spain..and coming from a puritanical society in the USA, I was a little taken back by what I saw! We were strolling along in our sexy hiking cloths, dripping in sweat, while families with kids and dogs, and couples young and older were enjoying their Sunday afternoon. I always notice dogs first and then the people they are with. I was checking out this dog playing around and here comes an older couple strolling along and they were naked. His stuffs just swingin, hers too, and it’s so natural for them. All I could think of was at least put some sunscreen on? Wouldn’t want all those parts getting burned!! I noticed it the first day in San Sebastián too. Women topless sun bathing. Such confidence! Here I was hotter than heck and I thought about taking my shirt off, soaking it in the water and then putting it back on but didn’t want to flash anyone with my bra!! Seriously! We come from a very different place, indeed. However I could do without seeing anymore old dingers swinging around.
    After we got through that stretch we walked through town and found the yellow arrows again that would lead us to Guemes. A lot of road walking after that. We were getting rummy and a little giggley. We were walking down this street and this younger man was walking towards us. He had nothing on but shorts that were tucked into the built in underwear. And I said ‘Here comes another naked man”. We all started laughing so hard. He must’ve felt so small after passing us because we were all losing it.
    We finally made it to our destination, Holly and I got our own private room, a lady washed our clothes and delivered them to our rooms. I had a shower and then a nice relaxing bath. It was perfect for the muscles!! Then Holly and I went for a lovely dinner at the place attached to this Posada. Unbelievably wonderful. Best meal yet on the Camino.
    It’s 11:30 now & need to get some rest. ❤️
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  • Guemes to Santander, Spain

    11. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Today was a perfect start. Cool, crisp morning makes for easy walking. The Posada we stayed at had a simple breakfast, but really good coffee. They didn’t open until 8, so we didn’t need to rush for once. Holly FINALLY got gluten free bread for breakfast and she was super happy. We only had about 20Km to walk today and much of it was along the jagged coastline with waves crashing below, surfing lessons in full swing, experienced surfers waiting for that perfect wave, and beach goers taking in their last sweet days of summer. The breeze was slight, with the refreshing saltwater air flowing right when the sun started heating up my face and I needed it the most. I took photos knowing they would not paint the picture I was seeing, but, it’s all about the memories, and thinking back to this perfect moment in time when everything felt right and good. At the top of the ridge there was an outlook with benches to soak in the views. There was Nathalie, who had started earlier from her albergue, waiting for us on the bench, blonde hair in disarray, showing signs she had weathered 11 days on this challenging Camino. It’s her last day. She does 2 weeks a year, so I knew this was coming. Bittersweet. I’m happy she completed what she set out to do, but my selfishness didn’t want her to go. We walked her final 5-6km together along the beach, and caught the ferry over to Santander. Once in Santander, it was too early to check in so we dropped off our things at the Hostal and went out to explore this beautiful city. First stop was for tapas and then we needed to find the bus station so she could buy a ticket out to the airport and Holly and I could buy our tickets for tomorrow. We are skipping ahead a few stages to Llanes. I really wanted to see the towns we are skipping, but our flight home is for the 4th and we would need to do some very long days (a couple 38km days, and a couple 30km days to make it work) and we would only get one day in Santiago. It’s Holly’s first time there, and I very much enjoy that city, it deserves a real visit. So, by doing this skipping ahead, it will lighten our daily demands quite a lot, and get us to Santiago with 2.5 days to visit it properly, celebrate Holly’s birthday, and bask in our completion. From the bus station we went to the cathedral to have a look, but unfortunately it was closed. Then as we headed to check out another plaza we were waiting to cross the street when we were approached by a Spanish guy who kept pointing to his phone and talking to Holly directly. She wasn’t understanding him, thought he wanted a charger or something, and was giving him the “I don’t understand, leave me alone”reaction as she kept walking. He kept on her. Nathalie had a good feeling about the guy, remembered seeing him at the bus station, and wanted to try and understand him, so she stopped, forcing all of us to stop and listen. Another lady (English speaking) got involved and it was finally communicated that a phone was left back at the bus station where we bought tickets. He had turned it in and followed/looked for us for at least 15-20 minutes. It was Holly’s phone. 😬 You lose your phone here, you mine as well go home. We need it for booking hostals, flight info, checking in at home, Camino maps, directions all over the cities, everything is on it and it’s a necessary part of this journey. Holly had an angel today. He was persistent, even when she was firmly trying to blow him off. It was amazing the kindness he had in his heart, I’m sure he had better things to do than run around a city looking to find her to let her know he left it with the ticket agent. Amen. Thank you Lord. Nathalie was nearly scolding her, in a way only Nathalie can do, telling her she needed to be more careful and to wear it around her neck or figure out a different spot with her phone. I have a feeling Holly will never do that again, not that she meant to, but after a scare like that, I think we all were reminded to be more aware, especially so far from home.
    Nathalie just left. My little ray of sunshine. My Camino friend from 2016 whom I have now shared the Frances, Primitivo, and the Norte roads with. What a blessing to have had her company once again. She’s so funny, kind, strong, and self sufficient. I truly love this woman. When we see each other each time it’s like no time has passed and we pick up where we left off, on the road, putting one foot in front of the other, day in and day out. We hugged hard, and I cried as she walked out of the hostel. Holly was on the phone with Ron, working on stuff for her grandson and felt bad she was only able to do a quick goodbye before getting back to it with Ron. I told her I am sure she understood what she was doing was important.
    For me, I’ve learned this Camino only works for me if I can truly let go. No chasing emails, phone calls, texts, or all the responsibilities I have 365 days a year. My only job here is to walk, eat, sleep, laundry, and do this little blog. I am fortunate to have a husband, children, clients, colleagues, and a boss who fully supports me letting it go for a month. I give my all when I am home and at work all year long. I need to check out in order to be better for everyone when I return. I gotta work on me. I lost my dad last year. I didn’t grieve. My mom needed me to be strong, it was in August, so work was busy, and I couldn’t stop and process that I had just watched my dad die within a month of finding out he had cancer. It all happened so fast and unexpectedly. I am forcing myself to be selfish with this moment in time because the second I hit U.S. soil, it all begins again. I welcome it and am excited for it to resume in a few weeks. I love my family, friends, job, clients, all of them, with every ounce of my being. While I love this break, I sure love coming home to the life my husband and I have built together over the last 27 years. Wouldn’t trade it for the world. I am feeling a bit sad right now, missing Nathalie, but we always manage to find a way to see each other again. It’s a small world, and when you find someone who brings out good in you, encourages you to be strong and gives a fresh perspective on life, you seek them out and they seek you out. Now I will turn my sadness into gratitude. What an awesome experience to share with someone so special and dear to my heart. Until next time, Nathalie, Buen Camino ❤️🎒👣
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  • Rest Day Bus Santander to Llanes, Spain

    12. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Cutest little city I think I’ve ever seen. It was a big surprise to arrive here by bus from raining and gloomy Santander. Luckily we were able to enjoy the city with Nathalie yesterday because today was not the day to explore. We hopped the bus at 11:30, got to Llanes around 1, dropped our things off at the hostal and had a fabulous day exploring this beautiful town. It’s full of little shops, pastries, chocolates, and restaurants that don’t adhere to siesta. We were able to eat at a normal time (for us), visit a church, walk around the entire town that was full of tourists. It’s one of those towns that are quaint, straight out of a fairytale, but had a vibe like a little city full of all the options you could ever want. I was able to get churros and thick hot chocolate to dip them in, they were fabulous. Holly and I needed this break, while we still managed to clock 6 miles, it was all done with joy and truly felt like a break from the grueling heat and endless roads. We were both in a little funk yesterday after Nathalie left and the rain didn’t help, so today was an absolute blessing and recharge for us both. Sometimes taking a break, giving our bodies some rest and love is just what is needed on the Camino so we can continue full force tomorrow. 30km tomorrow, won’t be easy, but we gave our bodies thanks for getting us this far so it can get us further. Looking forward to following those arrows tomorrow morning.Lue lisää

  • Llanes to Ribadesella, Spain

    13. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    34km today. Lovely walk until the pain started setting in the last 5. Perfect cool weather, overcast, no rain, slight breezes. Part of the day with a view of the sea and the rest inland on rolling country roads. I made a comment to Holly at one point, “We must’ve done something right in life to be blessed to be walking here, in Spain, along the most beautiful coastlines and a beautiful shaded countryside.” I’d like to think so? Then we got to the end of the day, drained as hell, dehydrated, because, well, we weren’t getting scorched, and we weren’t feeling the need to drink our water. Mistake. One we won’t make again. I only drank about 24oz of water..bad Tammy. You know better. Also this is the first time I had to use the restroom on a break because I wasn’t sweating profusely. I think the weather may be changing. That jacket I’ve been packing around, leggings, running jacket, maybe they will start to get used instead of being wasted space/weight. I’m not the bad ass you may think though. We have been having Mikel and Miguel transporting our backpacks every day for about €10. Sorry but my little baby pack that holds my important stuff, rain poncho, water, couple bananas, etc is such a relief. If I were packing my pack every day, it may kill me. I’ve done it before, but lately this heat, these damn hills, and high mileage has made me justify this decision. Come on. €10/day to save my back and knees, minimal cost. I still need to function after this. And it is still very difficult. We hiked TWENTY MILES today. We have about 20ish days of walking left, we want to make it, so we are going to accept what the Camino provides. Another thing the Camino provides is super cheap wine (usually $2/glass), and private rooms ($30!) from time to time. Why not? It helps traveling with another person. We split the cost of a private room that makes it very comparable to the price of a bed in a dormitory. Hmm do we pay $25 for a bed in a big dormitory of sharing bathrooms and snoring or $35 for a private room the two of us share? Easy choice!
    Our laundry just finished in the laundromat, time to go back to the room, regroup, and find dinner. All is well, our muscles are happy to be resting for a few hours now. We can get up and do this again tomorrow! Actually tomorrow feels like a cheat day after the last 12 days demands. We only have 11 miles!! Maybe we sleep longer, eat a proper breakfast, and enjoy this journey a little bit more tomorrow, because the next day is 32km..
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  • Picos de Europa

    Ribadesella to Colunga, Spain

    14. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Nice day passing little beaches and quaint villages that were definitely old, old Spain. We were walking mainly on dirt paths through forested areas, a little pavement, but not too much. 20+Km/12.78 miles is what the watch says. Tonight we are in Colunga, a small village, where we are staying in an adorable pension. The proprietress exudes pride in her little place with attached bar/restaurant. The room is charming and comfortable. I’m finding I am appreciative of the little things, I noticed a little refrigerator in the room, opened it up, my eyes lit up and I said, “Holly, look, there’s COLD water in the fridge!!”. Cold water is gold. Not only to have a refrigerator in our room, but to have a place to keep our water cold at night, absolutely first class!! Our laundry is doing it’s thing next door and we are enjoying a glass of wine before figuring out dinner and relaxing in that room of ours. There is a tub in the room, while I’ve already showered, I’m having thoughts of a nice bath later. Get it while I can.
    Today we met a man and his adult daughter from Nebraska. Sweet people, we ended up having lunch with them at a really cool outdoor beach restaurant. Best looking tacos I have seen in Spain and I finally got my pizza fix! It was nice to easily speak English with people. I remember whenever Nathalie or Luba would meet someone who spoke their native language, they were always excited to talk to them, I see why. It’s easy. It flows. You hear home. Missing home, my people, and of course my crazy dog, but I am absolutely loving this too. I feel fortunate, even during the moments of unbearable heat and endless roads.
    Today a tour bus of about 15 Koreans were dropped off on the trail with their clean shoes, and fresh legs (every inch of their skin covered of course-wouldn’t want to look like they are “lower class” with tanned skin, indicating they worked the fields). They mostly had a quick pace until they’d stop to take a photo every 5 minutes and slow down. There was no consistency to their stride, so we were passing and following them all day..until they got to Colunga and boarded their big air conditioned bus. Maybe I’m doing this wrong!!
    From what I’ve seen of Colunga so far it is pretty unimpressive, but honestly I prefer the smaller villages to the cities. They are easy. Finding a laundromat, food, supplies, easy. I left my shampoo & conditioner in Santander in the shower, so I found a salon and bought some more. Talk about cheap. Really good brand and it totaled about €30. I would’ve paid 3 times that at home for this brand. Our exchange is very close, unlike in the past where coming here was quite a bit more expensive. Laundry is about done, so off we go. Love and miss you my friends and family, talk tomorrow ❤️
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  • Colunga to Villaviciosa, Spain

    15. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    What a day. While a short waking day, it offered me a challenge, that’s what the Camino is all about. Rain. I fricken hate hiking in rain. Give me a mountain, a steep downhill, but please don’t add rain. When the rain comes, I’m ready to throw my hands up and call it a day. Everything is harder in the rain. But I did it. It wasn’t a downpour, but enough to remind me it’s there and it sucks. But the blessing is that it’s not scorching hot. It is stretching me past my comfort zone and showing me I can power through. I am capable of more than what I think. Far more than I think. I’m kinda hard on myself, I think I can always do better, do more, etc. Is this a human thing or just a Tammy thing? I like this about me in a sick way. It means I am always trying to do better, because hey, I can. We all can right? I want to keep learning. I want to continue to grow, as painful as it is sometimes. I still haven’t ‘arrived’. Not to Santiago or in my career or as the wife, mother and grandmother I want to be. As someone in my 20’s and 30’s I thought the whole goal in life was to ‘arrive’. I remember seeing a license plate on a fancy car many years ago that said ‘arrived’. I thought that was fantastic at the time. What an achievement! Go you!! What a sell out. I’ve come to believe if you think you’ve come to that place in life where you can just stop trying, you’re foolish. You’re selling yourself short. I can’t sell myself short. It ain’t in me. I’ve noticed that here. Every mountain, every steep decent, every beautiful view, every delicious little coffee, conversations in broken English, or very broken Spanish, it’s always a push. Life is a push. I love the push. Maybe that is why I love love my career. There is never a slam dunk. It always takes a ton of work to get everyone happily to the closing table. It’s never ‘sold’ until
    it’s recorded and the challenge is real. Usually a home is people’s most valuable asset I am dealing with. I need to be my best. Those who see my quick little posts on FB saying ‘just sold’ or ‘just listed’ may think it’s easy what I do, but it’s so not, and I welcome the challenges they all bring. During that process I am developing relationships that last forever. My clients are my friends. I love them. And they come back to me. That’s the blessing. It’s proof that if you work hard, enjoy the process, work through the hard, you are basically blessed with more challenges and opportunities. Yes, blessed.
    Here I am, hiking through Spain, feeling like a vagabond most days, and hoping my clients and family know, this is for them. And me. You get a stronger, happier me, every time. Allowing myself to step away from my family and work is harder for me than walking 500 miles. Every time I do it I come back better. Healed more. Stronger. And thinner 😆. And I am ready to dive in to it all as the plane touches down. It’s my passion. I am grateful.
    Not sure why I am going deep here with this tonight, maybe it is the cider I just slammed down the street, maybe it is because I am a couple weeks in and this is when my emotions start surfacing, or maybe it’s just what is in my heart today. It’s what you get. 🤷🏻‍♀️ I’ve had a couple easy 10-12 mile days and I am about to do 20 tomorrow. Freakin out a little. Those big days push me so damn much. I have often said before anyone makes a big decision like getting married or divorced, starting a business, closing one up, retiring, do a Camino. Find out who and what you are committing to, who and what are you are leaving, and what choices you’re about to make. You need clarity? This is the place. Who are you under pressure? Who is the love of your life when things get hard? Do they quit? Do they cry? Are they angry? Are you? Am I? Is the little child in them (or you, or me) going to run or fight? What do you need? What do you need to let go of? How do you grieve loss? Ya. It’s real. It’s revealing. God this is revealing. Maybe that’s why this path isn’t packed with people. Its hard to do these things and look straight into they eyes of scary. To reveal who you really are under the nice clothes, shoes, and makeup. It’s easier to drink, eat, workout excessively, and forget about deep personal growth, prayer, and becoming the best you can, the happiest you can be. I’ve felt pure happiness, the truest love, abuse, neglect, failure, embarrassment, good and bad decisions. Here, I’m taking the steps, not towards perfection, but towards a better me, a stronger me. Obviously, after 8 times here, I am a huge work in progress 😂.
    ANYWAYS, that’s where I am at right now. I will get back to talking about pretty flowers, amazing sea views, and incredible food tomorrow, hang with me. I do this blog more for reflection later for me, so if this is too much, I get it. We aren’t in the same mindset. But I have vowed to keep it real and not sugar coat it every day with my “fabulous adventures”, because that’s not why I am here. I don’t do superficial. I love and appreciate you all. Really. ❤️
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  • No make up, just wearing happy.Serious about the cider hereHello history.A taste of Spain from our tiny balcony with our clothes drying 😆

    Villaviciosa to Gijõn, Spain

    16. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    You guys. What a city we ended up in. Beachfront paradise. It was a tough day, we walked 30k, but we have a nice hotel room above plaza mayor where people are LIVING their best lives. We got here, showered, washed our clothes in the sink and are hanging them on our little balcony to dry..because there is just too much enjoyment to be had rather than looking for and waiting for the laundry to wash and dry. Our walk today was beautiful, but we had two good sized climbs before we entered this amazing city. Beaches, historic buildings, life. I’m totally impressed. Spain is incredible. This city is happy. We had a couple glasses of wine, dinner, and are now in our beautiful, but humble little room listening to and enjoying this amazing city. I’m in love. This is why I keep coming back. How could I not? ❤️Lue lisää

  • Gijõn to Aviles, Spain

    17. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    After enjoying the beautiful city of Gijon, what we could, after a 30k day, it was hard to leave this morning. Our hotel did a great buffet breakfast for €6 at 8:15 so we hung around for that deliciousness. Grabbed a banana and muffin for my walk and put it in my pack, kinda felt like ‘aunt Ethel’ at a wedding stuffing her pockets with something for later! Wish I would’ve had more time there. One side has stunning beaches and the other fishing boats and docks. Clean, historical, all the things, old and new. Our way out of town was on the fishing side, so it was actually a really pleasant walk out. Typically it’s awful walking in and out of a large city. We were happy and enjoying touring it a little more before passing on to the next. Great walk until we got to the industrial area. Plumes of whatever blowing, and the noise of freeways. More up, up, up. Just a lot of yuck. We soon climbed a pretty good little mountain and then entered those beautiful dirt tracks through corn fields and forests. It was absolutely lovely. I had some quiet time to reflect, pray, and ask for guidance not only on this trail, but in what is waiting for me at home. I’m getting there. Rather than being so preoccupied by watching for every arrow and shell directing me, I could finally relax and get in the zone. Not many services on the way, but we had enough to keep us alive, so we needed nothing but strong legs and feet. Arrived in Aviles in good time, did laundry, and checked out this little historical city in between the wash and dry cycles. It’s so charming, I was actually ready to not really like it, I had the impression it would be more industrial ugliness. However, at every turn there were historical sites, theaters, churches, nice plazas, flowers and storybook looking buildings. No beaches here, but the ambiance is amazing. I stumbled upon an open church, which hasn’t been easy, so many are closed when I arrive and I was completely drawn to it. I walked in, knelt, and had a good talk with God. It was moving. The music was playing, and it just relaxed my body and mind. I needed that re-centering. I needed to hand a few things over, and trust. I left feeling good. Right. Centered. Loved. God is so good.
    Back in the room now, awaiting the 8pm dinner hour (I’m going to chew my arm off, I swear!!) and another opportunity to stroll around this cool little city. Still loving the Camino, I feel blessed. But it’s hard to live like this for a month!! I struggle with the desire to go home and the curiosity of what’s around the next corner. Taking one step at a time, and enjoying this incredible experience, as grueling as it can be at times. Grateful and amazed by all the beautiful things our loving God has created for us to enjoy. Thanks be to God. ❤️👣🎒🙏🏻
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  • Aviles to Muros de Nalon, Spain

    18. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today started out like an Easter egg hunt again, finding the arrows and shells leading us out of town. We came across a beautiful church where mass was about to begin. We stepped in, said a quick prayer, and got back to finding those arrows. After about a half an hour of working our way out of town, I looked at my app and realized that it wasn’t on the ‘blue line’ we normally follow, but we kept following the yellow arrows and ended up bypassing a couple towns and shaving off 1.4km. Finally migrating off the blue line worked in our favor! We had a little rain about an hour into our walk, but it was cool so wearing the Packa (a zip up poncho) wasn’t like cooking inside a sauna. Amen. I found myself getting very negative and anxious when I had to pull that sauna thing out. You know by now, I can’t stand walking in the rain. I couldn’t tell if it was going to keep going all day or if it was just a gentle reminder that it’s part of this lovely adventure. As I walked along dirt tracks I asked myself why I got so much anxiety over the rain. I think most would prefer not to walk 15 miles in it, but it felt different. Like more than how others might react. Then it hit me. Montana. 21 day survival trip my parents sent me on when I was 15. It rained 7 of the 21 days. I still remember exactly how many days it rained. How there was no washer/dryer (of course), how everything stayed wet and damp most of the trip, ill fitting boots, one change of clothes, and how I was sent there and had no way out of it. There it was. My resentment, fear, frustration, and just plain anger over that. I was put in the middle of Montana for sneaking out my bedroom window and smoking cigarettes. I wasn’t told about this plan until the day my parents drove me over to Spokane and dropped me off. I was with about 7 others who were a couple years older than me hooked on cocaine, smoking pot, ripping off their employers, and running with gangs. They were rich kids from New York, LA, and one from Florida. I didn’t feel my crime fit the punishment. I was stuck with these ‘bad kids’ and it was an absolute nightmare. I cried as I recanted that memory. Why did my mom go along with my dads militant idea he read about in the Spokesman Review newspaper? Why not just parent me? Why ship me off? Wasn’t the last time I was shipped off either. Why didn’t my step sister have to go? My step brother? They did the same stuff and worse. Because their mother wouldn’t have allowed it. I felt unprotected then and it surfaced today. In the rain, and again, I felt like I had no way out and no one had my back. Didn’t expect to be processing this today. But, I guess it was time! Gotta love the Camino and how it pulls out those little bits of my childhood that were highly disturbing, unforgettable, and so fricking unfair. Not feeling like a victim. Please don’t think that, victim mentality has never been my thing. Just working it out so it doesn’t stay inside and fester anymore. I have choices now. I have a say-so in my life. If I want to walk through the rain, I can. If I want to hail a cab, I can. Today I hung with it because I chose to. And it was just fine. Before long the Packa was being put away in the backpack and I was strolling through beautiful forests in the cooler weather. Felt really cleansed and blessed.
    Holly and I walked within sight, but with space, with no talking, and it was so peaceful. This is whėt I needed. She probably did to. We aren’t here to drink all the wine in Spain or be a tourist. The remainder of the day I didn’t force anything to surface, I just surrendered to what the Camino wanted to show me, and maybe that was plenty for the day.
    My legs felt good, my feet kept stepping and I completely enjoyed the rest of my day of walking. It felt like a short day being only 14 miles. Never thought I’d say that haha!! So much better that those 20 mile days. We had time to get clothes washed and hang them on the line to dry. Dinner is at SEVEN! Not 8!!Yay!! The albergue we are staying at is really nice and clean. The lady runs a tight ship, but she’s super friendly. There is a big lawn with a teepee, horreo (converted to sleeping quarters) and lots of tables and chairs to relax in. Nothing in this town to explore, so it’s a perfect oasis to just be and truly rest our bodies. The next few days are easy breezy. Only 10-12 miles. But, we still have a couple big ones left on the itinerary. We are inching our way closer to Santiago! It doesn’t seem so far away now, but still a couple of weeks. My phone is about dead, need to charge, it’s the device getting us from point A to point B every day, so it gets a good workout!! Time for both the phone and I to recharge. Love you all, peace be with you, and for myself, remembering that every single storm runs out of rain.
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  • Muros de Nalõn to Soto de Luina, Spain

    19. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Fantastic day. Only 10 miles through farmland, forests, very little road walking and only minor ups and downs. No mountains to conquer today figuratively or physically. We arrived in a little village with basic services and we are both happy to have had a shorter, not so strenuous day. A little respite for our bodies so hopefully they keep carrying us through. Our feet may not go on strike after blessing them with today and tomorrow being easier distances. The albergue we were at last night had a little breakfast so we had that before setting out in the misty fog. So happy to have a good cup of coffee before getting started. We passed by a church (of course!) before heading out on the trail, that in the fog, looked so mysterious to me. It reminded me of the mysteries of faith. The divinely revealed truth about grace, redemption, and forgiveness in Christ. Perfect timing for me to recognize and contemplate this. Yesterday revealed something I hadn’t really processed and I have come to believe I need to find forgiveness in my heart, for my own peace. What’s done is done and I am a firm believer that all of the things good and bad, made me who I am today, and I think I’m alright and have done ok…as long as I don’t have to hike in the rain hahaha!
    Small towns are so easy to get in and out of, arrows and shells were visible and plentiful. The terrain was difficult in spots with lots of roots, rocks and mud puddles to dodge, unfortunately this means head down for proper foot placement, which was hard to do in such a beautiful place. The forest kept us cool before spitting us out into the sun for a little road walking a couple times. No cafe stops for coffee today, but we found a bench a couple kilometers before the end that we had a snack on and laughed at the mooing cows that sounded like they were talking to each other in the field next to us. It was a beautiful setting. The hills and fields are in high definition green, with no signs of autumn until entering the forests and the stark contrast of the changing colors of shedding leaves blanketing the ground we are walking on. The trees are starting to show me just how beautiful and lovely it is to let things go. 🍁
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  • Soto de Luina to Cadavedo, Spain

    20. syyskuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Absolutely pleasant, but challenging day with a mix of dirt tracks, creeks, babbling brooks, and of course road. We stayed mainly in the forest which made me so grateful. We hopped rocks and balanced ourselves across several creeks, did some mud, and had some incredible views of the Bay of Biscay, once again. After being inland for not sure however many days now, it was a welcomed sight. The cliffs and crashing waves were definitely the reward for several ups and downs all day. I’m so much stronger than I was. The first week these climbs were kicking my butt. I was sore and stiff in the mornings and at the end of the day, now, they are nothing. The weather has cooled off, thankfully, so that plays a big part in my endurance too. Today it seemed like every time I put the work in, I was afforded an incredible view or a charming village. Yes, there is an analogy in that, I recognize.
    We had 2 choices today. We could have done a big mountain, but there were no towns (so no coffees!!) or we could opt for the coastal route with several little villages dotted along the route. Both routes challenging and there was only 100 meter difference in climbing between the two. We took the coastal route and I think most pilgrims did. While we only hiked about 12 miles today, the challenge was in the climbing. The book made it look so easy. Yeah, no. As I said, grateful for the challenge, because it paid big dividends. Towards the last part we started bottlenecking with several pilgrims. It was a little jolting to my peaceful, quiet walk in nature. All of a sudden we were behind some guy who was having a great time talking and laughing loudly with his several friends. Everyone else was talking normally, but he had to yell and laugh louder than everyone else. I was tolerating it fine, to each their own, but I pulled back to create more distance. He was A LOT. Then they stopped to take photos and I saw the opportunity to pass. We snapped a couple photos too, and scurried past on our way, leaving the party bus behind, and getting back to peace.
    We arrived at our stop for the night and just got done talking to a semi-elderly lady named Ingrid from the Netherlands. We asked why she was walking the Camino and she told us about breaking her back and her many treks that built up her strength over the years. Absolutely amazing woman, she shared interesting stories of volunteering along the Camino routes, the ones she has walked, and advised us on a couple great points of interest to check out in a town coming up and once we reach Santiago de Compostela, our end point. What a gem she was to meet, and here she is walking one of the most difficult routes in Spain. Talk about inspiring. Time to relax, soak in this quiet little beachfront area we are in and possibly walk down to the beach to see a little bit more of this paradise we are so blessed to be in for the evening. Thanks be to God.
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