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Singapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
  • Siewch
sep. – okt. 2022

Singapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

Atlas Obscura-Driven Explorations in Singapore, Laracrofting in Angkor, and Exploring a New City Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    17. september 2022
    SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

    Prologue

    16. september 2022, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    When I look for flights for my visits to Singapore, in addition to searching for flights departing Honolulu, I often search for flights from Los Angeles because there are more connecting options between LAX and SIN, and the fares, even with a HNL-LAX return added, can be cheaper.

    This time, on a whim, I selected Business Class in my search parameters, and an intriguing and inexpensive (for Business Class) option popped up - LAX to SIN via Helsinki. I would have long layovers in both directions, but I didn't mind as I would have an opportunity to explore a new city. As an added bonus, I would get to try Finnair's unconventional new Business Class seat between Helsinki and Singapore.

    Even though it was a relatively cheap fare for Business Class, it was still a sizeable chunk of change, and so I thought over it for a few days before I took a deep breath and made the purchase.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Finland/Uusim…    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    First meal. Main was crab cakes with rice.
    Opera cake.Breakfast: game pie, fruit, yoghurt, and cold cuts.Boarding Pass for AY2.

    Los Angeles to Helsinki

    16. september 2022, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Finnair AY2 | LAX/HEL
    Business Class
    OH-LWN | Airbus A350-900
    ATD/1952 | ATA/1607+1
    Lounge: OneWorld Business Lounge, which appeared to be operated by Qantas.

    The flight was delayed an hour due to late arrival of inbound flight. The Business Class seat utilized on the LAX/HEL sectors was the standard Cirrus lie flat seat which I have always found to be comfortable. Service was friendly but not outstanding.Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The train station at Helsinki airport.
    The train station at Helsinki airport.The train station at Helsinki airport.The train station in downtown Helsinki.The train station at downtown Helsinki.The train station in downtown Helsinki.The square next to the train station in downtown Helsinki.

    Arrival in Helsinki

    17. september 2022, Finland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    My first layover was scheduled for eight hours between 4pm and midnight. The second layover on October 2 was a daytime connection from 6am to 4pm. As I only had limited daylight on my first layover, I decided to utilize that layover to get the lay of the land first, and reserve a trip to Suomenlinna Fortress for my second layover.

    Due to a flight delay, my scheduled eight hour layover was reduced to seven hours. Despite this setback, I decided to stick with my original plan to take the train into Helsinki, and get a sense of the city during the three hours of daylight I still had left.

    I landed in Helsinki around 4.30pm. After going through immigration, I deposited my larger backpack at a left baggage counter, withdrew some cash from an ATM, and then took three escalators deep underground to get to the train station. The design of the train station was quite awe inspiring. The long escalators into the train station were especially cool as they feature high concrete walls on three sides.

    At the platform, I hopped onto a train. It took a little under 30 minutes to get to Helsinki's art deco inspired train station with its iconic lantern bearer statues.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/lyhdynkanta…

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The Helsinki Waterfront as seen from the Suomenlinna Ferry.
    Buildings seen en route to the seafront.Buildings seen en route to the seafront.I walked through the Esplanadi to get to the seafront.More funky fountains at the Esplanadi.I walked through the Esplanadi to get to the seafront.Fountain at the eastern end of the Esplanadi.Old Market Hall.Old Market Hall.Interior of Old Market Hall during my second layover.I wondered if this was a sauna, or a funky store. It turned out to be a tourist information booth.On top of the booth is a public space where people can hang out on the sloping roof.Insouciant gulls atop a statue at the seafront.Allas Sea Pool.Allas Sea Pool.Ferris wheel neat Allas Sea Pool.My snack before boarding the Suomenlinna Ferry on my second layover.The Sunday crowds at the waterfront during my second layover.Salmon and vegetable lunch during my second layover.Insouciant gull atop a truck.

    Helsinki Waterfront

    17. september 2022, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After exiting the train station, I turned east and made my way to the seafront in the hope of getting to the Old Market Hall before they closed at 6pm. En route, I tried to get a feel for the environment I was in. Apart from a general sense of orderliness, I was surprised to hear a fair bit of English spoken around me. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that Helsinki was more multiracial than I expected for a European country that wasn't a colonial power.

    To get to Old Market Hall, I first walked through the Esplanadi, a very cute park with several statues depicting various sea creatures spouting water. Alas, I arrived at the Old Market Hall just as they were shutting the front doors. I wandered around the seafront for bit, taking in the sights, and taking note of the location of the ferry to Suomenlinna. I was also impressed by the modern design elements around. A great example was a tourist information booth which was constructed from asymmetrical wood strips. From there, I headed towards the Allas Sea Pool. I briefly considered going there to partake in Finland’s sauna culture, but I balked about walking from the hot sauna into the chilly 14 degree Celsius open air to dip myself in even more chilly sea water.

    Note: A number of the photos in this entry are from my second layover.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Uspenski Cathedral.
    Uspenski Cathedral.Uspenski Cathedral.

    Uspenski Cathedral

    17. september 2022, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    While I was wandering around the Helsinki waterfront, my eye wandered to something bright and shiny: the golden domes of the Uspenski Cathedral perched atop a nearby hill. I made my way there, wandered the grounds, and noted the small crowd on the hillock awaiting the sunset.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Helsinki Cathedral.
    Senate Square.Senate Square viewed from the Helsinki Cathedral steps.Helsinki Cathedral.Helsinki Cathedral.Helsinki Cathedral.Insouciant gull atop a statue, Senate Square.Senate Square.

    Senate Square & Helsinki Cathedral

    17. september 2022, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After wandering Uspenski Cathedral, I walked over to Senate Square, where I climbed the steps leading up to the Helsinki Cathedral. I hung out there to watch the sunset.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Kamppi Chapel.
    Kamppi Chapel.Pohjola Insurance Building.Pohjola Insurance Building.Shopping area near Kamppi Chapel.Amos Rex Museum.Amos Rex Museum.

    Atlas Obscura Wanderings in Helsinki

    17. september 2022, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After sunset, I made my way through the fading light towards to check out two Atlas Obscura sights. The first was the Pohjola Insurance Building, which features an old stone façade with gargoyles and ogres from Finnish folklore.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/pohjola-ins…

    I then walked westwards past the train station, and I headed towards Kamppi Chapel, a cool looking asymmetrical wooden structure located very conspicuously within a shopping area. Per Atlas Obscura, it isn’t really a chapel; it serves as a quiet space in the middle of a commercial district. Unfortunately, it had closed for the day, so I could not go inside.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kamppi-chapel

    Nearby, I stumbled across the exterior of the Amos Rex Museum, which looks like white mounds. I enjoyed watching people gingerly pick their way up and down the sloping roof.

    I wandered around for a bit more, but it was already well past sunset and I don’t fancy wandering around a strange city in the dark, so I made my way to the train station and back to Vantaa Airport.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat.
    Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat.Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat features wireless charging.Wireless charging.Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat.Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat. The screen did not pivot, which is a design flaw.Finnair's innovative new Business Class seat. The screen did not pivot, which is a design flaw.Footwell in the Business Class seat.Supper: Smoked trout, pea mousse, and shredded chicken tartlet.Blueberry mousse and cheese.Breakfast: Game pie, fruit, salad with prawns, cold cuts. There were no choices for this meal.Boarding pass for AY131.

    Helsinki to Singapore

    18. september 2022, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Finnair AY131 | HEL/SIN
    Business Class
    OH-LWE | Airbus A350-900
    ATD/0015 | ATA/1822
    Lounge: Finnair Business Lounge

    ===============================================================

    I was skeptical about Finnair's new Business Class seat, but after spending over 12 hours in it, I am a convert. I loved the sleek design, and I especially liked the wireless charging port. The only two drawbacks were a metal bar in the footwell, and the monitor not being adjustable.

    I was surprised to find out that the entire cabin crew were Singapore-based. They were very friendly and less formal than their Finnish counterparts, and they took the effort to memorize their customers’ names and address them by name throughout the flight.

    In normal times, this flight would have taken under 11 hours. But, due to the war in Ukraine, the flight made a huge detour around Russia and Ukraine, thus adding more than two hours to the flight time. I wish I had taken a screenshot of the FlightRadar24 route for this flight.    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

    Singapore: Prologue

    18. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    In general, I return to Singapore at least once every year. This time round, I scheduled a longer than usual stay anticipating that I may need to take care of certain family logistics, but it turned out we did not need to put these plans in place yet. But, this left me with a fair bit of time on my hands. Even after I cut short my stay by four days to make a trip up to Angkor Wat, I still needed to find ways to occupy myself. Because I grew up in Singapore, there isn't much that I haven't already seen and done. So, I assigned myself a small project: I would seek out sites from Atlas Obscura, and blog about them.

    Singapore currently has 57 entries in the Atlas Obscura. Because the listings are user-created, some of them are actually pretty mainstream (Gardens by the Bay... really?), so they should be treated with a grain of salt. Prior to this trip, I had been to about a dozen of the sites. I resolved to add a couple more during this trip. I also resolved to use public transport as much as I could to visit these sites.    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The lake at Singapore Granite Quarry
    Singapore Granite Quarry.Snakehead Terror!Macaque near the quarry.A mural at the nearby Rail Mall that was painted by a former classmate.View from my parents' condo towards the nature reserve.

    Singapore Granite Quarry

    19. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    My parents' condo is located next to Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. When I visit, I often walk over to conquer Singapore's highest summit - all 163 meters of it! The nature reserve itself doesn't have any entries in Atlas Obscura. There are, however, at least five abandoned granite quarries in the vicinity, and one of them - Little Guilin - has an entry. Back in the day (I am guessing 1970s), some earnest but overenthusiastic person thought the abandoned quarry with its lake resembled a miniaturized version of the famous karst landscape of Guilin in China, and so the site was named as such. Of course, somebody should have told this person that granite looks very different from limestone. Nevertheless, the name stuck.

    I have visited Little Guilin in the past. This trip, I drove past the site while running an errand for my parents, but I didn't stop there. I did, however, visit a couple of the other old quarries. Rainwater has filled in four of the five quarries, making scenic little lakes that are a haven for birdlife. Some misguided people have released ornamental fish and reptiles into the lakes, so it isn't unusual to see koi and little terrapins swimming around. I also have a bit of a running gag with Jeff when I visit the quarries - a few years back, there was a bad scifi movie called Snakehead Terror. The snakehead fish are actually from Southeast Asia. I will look out for the fish in the lake, snap a photo of them, and send them to Jeff with silly captions. While on one of my jaunts in the area, I saw evidence of a recent landslide, and I smiled inwardly thinking of my Geomorphology professor who was obsessed with landslides. One can also spot monkeys, monitor lizards, and red jungle fowl. I do enjoy my walks to these little known beauty spots.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/little-guilin

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The site where the Japanese shrine and Australian cross were located.
    A plaque commemorating the site.Looking down the steps.It looks like a chicken, it clucks like a chicken... but... it is a Red Jungle Fowl.Stop feeding monkeys!Granite quarry within Bukit Batok Nature Park.Macaque at Bukit Batok Nature Park.

    Bukit Batok Nature Park

    21. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Also site close to my parent's condo is Bukit Batok Hill directly behind their condo. On that hill, the Japanese housed the cremated remains of their fallen soldiers; ironically, this memorial was built by Australian POWs. In what must have been a display of humanity, the Japanese allowed the Australians to erect a memorial of their own - a cross. Both these memorials are long gone, and a plaque is all that is left to remind us of these two sites.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The Prisoner of War Steps.
    A sample of the bricks that make up the Prisoner of War Steps. Note the arrows.A sample of the bricks that make up the Prisoner of War Steps. Note the arrows.Dendrobium Joe and Jill Biden.Dendrobium Barack and Michelle Obama. One of the parent orchids for this hybrid is from Hawaii.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.Singapore Botanical Gardens.

    Singapore Botanical Gardens

    22. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    One Atlas Obscura site that has intrigued me for some time is the Prisoner of War Steps. Nestled within the UNESCO-listed Singapore Botanic Gardens, this is a short and slightly uneven flight of steps made of bricks. For decades, people were largely unaware of the historical significance of the bricks until some former Australian prisoners of war visited the gardens and recognized the bricks as ones they made because they etched arrows in them as an act of defiance.

    One afternoon, I made my way to the Botanic Gardens after a heavy downpour. I took the opportunity to enjoy the beautifully curated gardens, and I especially enjoyed the National Orchid Garden. Singapore is a major exporter of orchids, and a lot of research and development is invested into developing new hybrids. One of the more unique pillars of Singaporean diplomacy is to name orchids after visiting dignitaries. I was stoked to find blooms dedicated to the Bidens and the Obamas, but then I found a plant named after the Pences. Ugh. Rather fittingly, it wasn't blooming. I was relieved to not see a Trump orchid; maybe they couldn't find a flower with enough gold. Regardless, I cannot imagine a thing of beauty representing someone as damaged as him. I searched in vain for the orchid named after Queen Elizabeth, but it was not on display.

    The Prisoner of War Steps were at the far end of the gardens. I found them with little difficulty. True enough, there were arrows etched into some of the bricks. I took some photos, reflected on the human toll of war, and made my way out. This was my first time in the newly-expanded Botanic Gardens since I was a teenager, and I really enjoyed reconnecting with this landmark.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/prisoner-of…

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The gates at Fort Canning.
    The grave reputed to hold the remains of a 14th century king.Archaeological excavation on Fort Canning.

    Fort Canning Hill

    24. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I spent an afternoon tracking down a number of sites in the civic district downtown. My first stop was Fort Canning Hill, which I haven't been to since I was a teenager. The site I was specifically looking for was Keramat Iskandar Shah, believed to be the grave of a pre-colonial king from the 14th century. I also took the opportunity to explore the area, including some old fortifications and cannons.

    I was surprised to find an archaeological excavation site in the park, with information about pre-colonial Singapore. When I was in school, our history lessons glossed over what was in place before Sir Stamford Raffles "founded" Singapore. The traditional western-focused narrative was that Singapore was a sleepy fishing village, and that the British transformed it into a thriving port. It was only in recent years that a different narrative has come to light - that Singapore was already a flourishing trading post centuries before the British arrived, and that they built Singapore upon that foundation.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/keramat-isk…

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Boat Quay. I used to compete in dragonboat races here when I was in university.
    The old Hill Street Police Station with its rainbow shutters.The elephant statue King Chulalongkorn gifted to Singapore in 1871.Bronze Bathers sculpture.The Merlion. This site is hardly obscure; it is a fixture on the tourist circuit.The iconic Marina Bay Sands.The Esplanade.

    Singapore Civic District

    24. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    After exploring Fort Canning, I walked downhill into the heart of the civic district. The first site I hit was the former Singapore Philatelic Museum, which was in the process of being converted into a museum for children. I then visited the former Hill Street Police Station with its colorful shutters. From there, I walked along the Singapore River to the site where I used to compete in dragonboat races while in university. I also walked past the former site of Singapore's first cat cafe. On past trips, I spent many happy hours there hanging out with the cats. The owners of the cafe truly did love their cats and they did much to advocate for animal welfare. Earlier this year, they decided to close the shop as the cats were getting old.

    I hit three sights in the quay area. The first was an elephant statue which King Chulalongkorn of Thailand gave to Singapore when he visited in 1871. The second was a sculpture of kids jumping into the Singapore River. My final stop was the Merlion, which is a pretty mainstream tourist attraction. As I walked around, I saw that the area had been closed off to traffic and infrastructure was being put in place for the upcoming F1 Grand Prix.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/singapore-p…

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/old-hill-st…

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/chulalongko…

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/bronze-bath…

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/merlion

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    An insouciant monitor lizard casually hanging out on the walking path.
    Monitor lizard casually hanging on on the path.Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. There is a flock of herons in the background.Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve - walking path leading up to a bird viewing hut.Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve.Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve.Basking crocodile at Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve.Basking crocodile at Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve.Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve.Mangrove swamps on the coastline.There were "pods" located along the boardwalk. In the background is Johor Bahru, Malaysia.My view of Malaysia. My cellphone data provider sent me a "Welcome to Malaysia" text!

    Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve

    25. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I spent one afternoon at the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve located a short distance west of the northernmost tip of Singapore. Taking the bus north one Sunday, I noted with interest that the bus filled up with workers from the Indian Subcontinent. Singapore companies employ a large pool of foreign workers, and many of them are housed in dormitories in remote parts of the island. This being a Sunday, I assume they were returning from their activities during their day off. Indeed, as I got closer to my destination, I encountered more evidence that there were dorms nearby as I saw groups of men hanging out in public spaces, and I even witnessed a cricket match. But, I could not identify which buildings were dorms. The living conditions in these dorms attracted international attention in the early days of Covid when the virus swept through that population and they were confined to those dorms for weeks on end.

    Sungei Buloh is a coastal wetland known for attracting migratory birds. Back in university, this was an overnight stop during our round island kayaking expeditions, which generally took three days. Back then, the coastal boardwalks did not exist; we simply dragged ourselves up from the shoreline, ate some food, and went to sleep on a concrete deck. We were always awakened well before dawn by a loud cacophony of bird sounds. This time round, I walked along the paths through the mangrove swamps. I had intended to explore this site in the morning when the birds are more active, but a heavy downpour spoiled my plans. In the afternoon, it was mostly egrets and herons that were visible. I also saw a crocodile, a squirrel, and several monitor lizards.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sungei-bulo…

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Multilingual directional sign to the German Girl Shrine.
    Exterior shot of the German Girl Shrine.German Girl ShrineMultilingual signage at German Girl ShrineMultilingual signage at German Girl ShrineStatue at the shrine. Note the nail polish. Photo credit: J. Lim.Another perspective. Note the wreath on top.Another perspective on the statue at the German Girl Shrine.Dolls and nail polish on the shrine.Offerings of nail polish.Bottles of Florida water which I learned is a sort of cologne, with more dolls in the background.Kiln at German Girl Shrine.The monkey that went after June's handbag.Another shot of the kleptomonkey.Pig and monkey at the German Girl Shrine.Monkey at German Girl Shrine.This friendly dog followed us for a while.

    Pulau Ubin: German Girl Shrine

    26. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    When I told some of my classmates about my plans to explore Atlas Obscura sights, one listing they immediately latched on to was the German Girl Shrine. I have long been fascinated by this site, but because it is located on Pulau Ubin, an island off the northeastern tip of Singapore, I never could garner the motivation to make the trek there. Now, with my three classmates in tow, I got the kick I needed to make this pilgrimage. Of my three classmates who accompanied me, I have been in continuous contact with one, sporadic contact with another, and the third I have not seen since we were teenagers. It is a testament to our bond of friendship that we simply picked up where we left off.

    The German girl in question lived before World War I on a plantation on Pulau Ubin belonging to her parents. As war was about to break out, the British started rounding up Germans. The girl fell to her death escaping the British, and the plantation workers buried her at the site of the shrine. Rather inexplicably, local gamblers started coming to the shrine to pray for good luck. They would leave feminine offerings, such as nail polish or dolls, at the shrine.

    One overcast morning, the four of us met at the Tampines East MRT station and we made our way towards the ferry terminal at Changi Point. When I was a teenager, we simply walked onto the jetty and onto a waiting boat. Now, there is a fancy terminal and waiting areas for the next boat. On our return, we were surprised to be directed to a metal detector and x-ray machine for our bags.

    The boat ride to Pulau Ubin took about ten minutes. Once on the island, we set off west for our 2.5km walk in search of the German Girl Shrine. En route, we stopped at several other temples and shrines, and also at a number of scenic spots. The most interesting of our diversions was to a shrine that appeared to be Chinese on the outside, but when we stepped in we saw statues that looked Malay, along with Malay paraphernalia. A google search revealed that the deity at this shrine is Datuk Gong, an earth deity that takes different forms and has devotees of different ethnicities and faiths.

    After about an hour of walking, we reached the German Girl shrine. I noted that the signage at the shrine was in English, Chinese, Malay, and German. At the shrine itself, I saw a couple of figurines with European features, a wreath, plus offerings of nail polish, bottles of perfumed water, and dolls. Sadly, there was a lot of trash next to the shrine, and there were monkeys and a wild pig foraging in the trash. One of my friends had a pink handbag that was the same color as some of the plastic bags in the trash. One monkey made a beeline for her bag and tried to snatch it. I had to stand between her and the monkey.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/german-girl…

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The boats that ply between Changi Jetty and Pulau Ubin.
    View of Pulau Ubin from the boat.Shareen and Hui Yng.June and I.Chinese Temple in the main village.Banyan tree in the village.Datuk Gong Shrine.Interior of Datuk Gong Shrine.Friendly drinks store en route to the German Girl Shrine.Chinese shrine near the drinks stand.Wall detail at the Fo Shan Ting Da Bo Gong Temple.Fo Shan Ting Da Bo Gong Temple.Fo Shan Ting Da Bo Gong Temple.Tiger shrine at Fo Shan Ting Da Bo Gong Temple.The Mainland Chinese devotees doing goodness-knows-what.Abandoned granite quarry.

    Pulau Ubin Village & Surrounding Areas

    26. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After visiting the shrine, we made our way back to the main village. A friendly dog followed us for a while. Along the way, we stopped for fresh coconuts at a very friendly drink stand located next to a mangrove swamp. The proprietor revealed that the coconuts were imported from Thailand. Interestingly, at the stand, we saw a photo of another classmate among a bunch of photos displayed on a wall.

    As we neared the main village, we encountered a strange sight - there were several dozen people from Mainland China dressed in all white. They would take three steps, clasp their hands together, and get onto their knees, and bow. We couldn't figure out what they were doing. The islanders we asked said they hadn't encountered this before.

    At the main village, we ate a good seafood meal at a very friendly restaurant. Two friendly village dogs came by to hang out with us. I was struck by the kampung (village) spirit of everyone in the area. The main island of Singapore is far less friendly and laid back.

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    South facing jetty behind the visitor center.
    The restored house that now acts as a visitor center.The house was one owned by a British family. Note the chimney - unusual in Singapore.Chek Jawa. There is a family of wild pigs on the shore.The jetty at Chek Jawa, looking back at the visitor center.Coastal boardwalk.Coastal boardwalk.Transition from the coastal to the mangrove boardwalk.Transition from the coastal boardwalk to the mangrove boardwalk.On the boardwalk through the mangrove swamp.Mangroves.Mangroves.Mangrove swamp viewed from the tower.Mangrove swamp viewed from the tower.Looking east towards Pulau Tekong where I did my basic training. I gave an involuntary shudder.A wefie at the top of the viewing tower.

    Pulau Ubin: Chek Jawa

    26. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After lunch, we hired a van to take us to another site - the Chek Jawa wetlands on the southeastern end of the island. Back in school when I was on the kayaking team, I noted that the water in this area was full of sea grass, and I wondered what lay beneath. It was only in the early 2000s that the biodiversity of the area became more widely known, and efforts began in earnest to preserve the area.

    The van ride took ten minutes. We started out exploring the visitor center, which is housed in a restored Tudor-style house that once belonged to a British family. When I was a teenager, I encountered this house in its dilapidated state. After that, we walked out onto the coastal boardwalk. We saw a family of pigs foraging along the shore, and some monitor lizards. After the coastal boardwalk, we joined a second boardwalk through mangrove. The highlight of this area was a viewing tower that gave us a panoramic view of the wetlands, and Pulau Tekong and the Malaysian state of Johor in the distance. During my military service, I did my basic training in Pulau Tekong and I gave an involuntary little shudder when I saw the island.

    After the wetlands, we made our way back to the jetty and back to Singapore Island. As our boat pulled into the terminal, we spotted another Atlas Obscura site - a large hand shaped sculpture called The Inscription of the Island. Incidentally, one of our Geography fields trips when we were teenagers brought us to that same site, but that was long before the sculpture was installed.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/inscription…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Singapore/blog-…    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

    Singapore: Epilogue

    27. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Like most emigrants, my relationship with my country of birth is best described as complicated. The pace at which the physical landscape changes makes it challenging to stay connected with Singapore. The one constant has been family and friends.

    On past visits, I have been bored because I ran out of new things to see and do. I wish I had thought of seeking out random Atlas Obscura sites years ago. This has been a positive exercise in helping me reconnect with Singapore at a deeper level, and I intend to keep doing this for my future trips.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Singapore/blog-…    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

    Cambodia: Prologue

    28. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    As I mentioned previously, I found myself with extra time on my hands in Singapore because I didn't have to begin working on certain family logistics. I therefore decided to cut short my time there to spend a few days exploring a site I've always wanted to visit. As an added bonus, I figured Angkor would be without the pre-Covid tourist hordes, which made this an even more attractive time to visit.Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Singapore Airlines' new sustainable serviceware.
    Breakfast: congee. This packaging makes it so much easier to serve meals with soup or gravy.Boarding pass for SQ164.

    Singapore to Siem Reap

    28. september 2022, Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Singapore Airlines SQ164 | SIN/REP
    Economy Class
    9V-MBI | Boeing 737-MAX8
    ATD/0843 | ATA/1003

    I can’t fault Singapore Airlines’ service, although it felt odd to be on a narrowbody as I’ve only ever flown widebodies on SQ. I got to try their new sustainable serviceware on its shorthaul routes, and I am a fan of the simple setup.Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

    Siem Reap Arrival & Initial Explorations

    28. september 2022, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I arrived in a rainy Siem Reap late morning on Wednesday. As soon as I checked in to my accommodation, I headed out the door to explore Siem Reap. My first impression was that there were lots of Prius (Prii?) on the road. Siem Reap felt like your typical Southeast Asian tourist boomtown; you see lots of motorcycles, a mix of independent accommodations and hotel chains, a few small malls, Starbucks, and fancy coffee shops with English signage. I even saw a vet clinic with signage saying they can arrange the logistics to get lucky animals who have been adopted by foreigners to their new homes. But, these establishments were mostly empty, and it is clear that Cambodia's tourism industry hasn't recovered. Especially telling were a couple of empty large restaurants with huge parking lots - usually such establishments cater to large tour groups.

    After walking around a bit, I chose the venue for my first Cambodian meal - a hole in the wall establishment with locals and no tourists. The proprietor barely spoke English, so I pointed at pictures and ended up with a watery curry. After eating, I wandered into a supermarket for some provisions. There, I saw Cambodia's dual currency system in full swing. In general, foreigners are expected to pay in USD. However, Cambodia does not seem to utilize US coins, so change is given in riels, at a slightly advantageous exchange rate to the vendor, I might add. But, since riels only come in multiples of one hundred, you can't fault the establishments for rounding down. Even the cash register was programmed to calculate the change in riels.

    After some more wandering, I returned to my accommodation as the dark clouds looked threatening. True enough, it started to rain soon after. That night, I woke up several times to the sound of torrential downpours.    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    Angkor Wat.
    Angkor Wat.Reliefs at Angkor Wat.Steep stairway to the upper level.View from the upper level.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Walkway to Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.Angkor Wat.

    Small Circuit: Angkor Wat

    29. september 2022, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    My accommodation arranged a tuk tuk - which in reality was an autorickshaw powered by a motorcycle - to take me to the temples. I declined to hire a guide because even though I would learn more with a guide, I prefer to explore on my own terms. Besides, having a guide tell you things sometimes dampens my sense of awe. I decided that I would simply follow the greatest hits itinerary and cover the Small Circuit in one day, and the Grand Circuit the next. The going rate was USD15 for the former and USD18 for the latter. As this was the tail end of the rainy season, I didn't even bother with a sunrise or sunset trip given the amount of cloud cover.

    Phoan, my driver, met me after breakfast and we set off for the ticket office. We bounced along the wet, badly potholed backroads of Siem Reap and then joined the well maintained highway to the ticket office. It seemed as if Phoan's motorbike was underpowered. En route, the first signs of trouble emerged: I heard the engine backfire. At the ticket office, I bought a one day ticket for USD37 (the government is allowing one day tickets to be used for two days while tourism recovers) and returned to see Phoan toying with his bike. As we set off towards our first stop, his bike spewed white smoke... at least it wasn't black smoke. Everyone who passed us turned and looked. I wondered about asking Phoan to find someone else to take over the remainder of the day's itinerary. But, I have worked hard over the years to not micromanage, and I trusted that he would know what is best for the situation.

    Our first stop was the crown jewel of Cambodia, Angkor Wat. As soon as Phoan dropped me off, he said he would go to the mechanic, and he took off.

    I was surprised to see that Angkor Wat faced west, the cardinal point associated with death. Modeled on the mythical Mount Meru, Angkor Wat has a central tower to represent Mount Meru itself, a number of shorter towers to represent other peaks, several courtyards to represent the continents, and a moat to represent the oceans. Angkor Wat's famous naga bridge was closed for maintenance. To cross the moat, I had to use a pontoon bridge. As I approached the temple, a Chinese speaking guide approached me. I groaned inwardly when I realized I committed an amateur mistake by involuntarily reacting to him; in situations such as these, I usually pretend to not speak Mandarin, but it is hard for me to tune it out. I managed to shake him off eventually. As soon as I shook him off, an English speaking guide came to me. I managed to shake him off too.

    Angkor Wat did not disappoint. I spent almost two hours transfixed by the sheer scale and majesty of the monument. I also climbed a steep flight of stairs (built for people with really small feet) to access the central tower, where I had a bird's eye view of the rest of the temple. I don't think I have been this awed by a single monument since Borobudur.

    After exploring the temple, I called Phoan, and he reported that he was back from the mechanic. He rolled by a new minutes later. For the remainder of the day, his motorbike seemed to struggle, but at least it wasn't belching smoke.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…    Les mer

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  • SiewchReisendeSingapore, Angkor, & Helsinki
    The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.
    The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The causeway leading to the South Gate at Angkor Thom.The South Gate at Angkor Thom. This was the first of many giant stone faces I saw.South Gate at Angkor Thom.South Gate at Angkor Thom.

    Small Circuit: Angkor Thom South Gate

    29. september 2022, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Angkor Thom comprises of several temples enclosed within the same moat. We entered via the striking South Gate, which features a series of statues flanking both sides of the bridge across the moat. The gate itself featured a giant face built into the rock, and it was the first of many I would see.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…    Les mer

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