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Singapore & Fiji

Celebrating my mother’s 91st birthday + my first exploration of Fiji. Czytaj więcej
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    7 lutego 2026

    Honolulu to Tokyo Haneda

    6 lutego, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Japan Airlines JL71 | HNL/HND
    Economy Class
    Boeing 787-9 | JA877J
    ATD/1537 | ATA/2015+1
    Sakura Lounge

    I planned this trip to be in Singapore for my mother's 91st birthday on February 8th. As February 16th would be a public holiday in the US, I decided to schedule my vacation days just before the holiday so that I could combine them and take a longer trip. When looking at flight options, an intriguing option came across my radar: a resonably priced one way Singapore to Honolulu Business Class flight on Fiji Air, with 19 hours in Fiji between flights. I'd only ever transited in Fiji without leaving the airport, and I really wanted to explore a new place, so I quickly booked this flight without even thinking about the Lunar New Year. As it turns out, I would leave Singapore just before the Lunar New Year. Yikes. I've always joked that I am the worst Chinese on the planet, and this just lends more credence to it!

    To get to Singapore, I booked a one-way economy ticket on JAL. My first flight of this journey was the JAL flight to Haneda. I've taken this flight many times, so I already had a set routine, which was to finish work at 2.00pm, get to the airport around 2.30pm, make a quick pitstop at the Sakura Lounge, and then board the flight.

    Today's flight was extra long at over 9 hours; I don't believe any of my prior Hawaii-Japan flights have ever exceeded 9 hours. As with my last trip, there were two Thai flight attendants on this flight. I wonder if JAL is trying to roster more foreign crew to reduce costs. The flight itself was pleasant, but nine hours in economy, even with the extra legroom at the emergency exit, made for a long day.
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  • Tokyo Haneda to Singapore

    7 lutego, Japonia ⋅ 🌨 3 °C

    Japan Airlines JL35 | HND/SIN
    Economy Class
    Boeing 767-300ER | JA608J
    ATD/0007 | ATA/0641
    Sakura First Class Lounge

    As with my last trip through Japan, international transit passengers were ushered to the departure level without having to go through security. I am very happy with this new arrangement. At the departure level, I made my way to the Sakura First Lounge where my first order of the day was to take a shower. After my shower, I had sushi and a shrimp and mushroom pasta. I spent a couple more hours in the lounge before heading to the gate for my flight to Singapore.

    Similar to my prior flight, this flight, too, seemed longer than usual, but I managed to get a half decent sleep, and I was especially grateful that the cabin crew served breakfast about 90 minutes before landing instead of the usual two hours. I was surprised that the aircraft did not require deicing given the just above zero temperature, but I was also happy to not be delayed. My understanding is that it snowed in Tokyo that day.
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  • Happy Birthday Mum!

    8 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    When I take JL35 to Singapore, I usually force myself to stay awake, eat an early dinner, and then go to sleep. Doing this helps me adjust to the time difference faster. This time round, my priority was to be alert during my mother's birthday dinner which was scheduled for that evening, so I broke my cardinal rule and slept during the day. This meant a longer adjustment to the time difference, but at least I was rested and alert during our celebration.

    The highlight of the gathering was meeting my grandnephew Daniel for the first time. He was born in September last year, and I was sad that I missed his birth by three days.
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  • National Gallery: Impressionists

    9 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    I was fortunate that my visit coincided with the National Gallery's special exhibit titled Into the Modern, which features impressionist masterpieces from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. Located on the third floor of the National Gallery, I was transfixed by the amazing paintings from Monet, Dega, Cezanne, and other famous names. I'd primarily associated impressionism with natural landcapes and depictions of people at play, and I was pleasantly surprised to see portaints, built landscapes, and even still life. I especially loved how the paintings looked different when viewed from different angles, and how everything, even snowflakes, had texture. Czytaj więcej

  • National Gallery: Southeast Asian Art

    9 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    After the impressionists, I mostly focused on Southeast Asian art. The National Gallery is housed in the former Supreme Court building; the layout of the building wasn't very intuitive with little nooks everywhere, and I knew from my prior visit that it can get a little overwhelming, so I chose to see a select subset of the exhibits and I completed my tour before it became too much for me.

    As for the art itself, I was slightly surprised to see some pieces that were boundary pushing (by Singapore standards anyway), with political and social commentary embedded into many pieces. One painting even showed an interracial gay couple.
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  • The Albatross File

    11 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    The Albatross File is a recently declassified set of documents kept by Dr. Goh Keng Swee, who was Singapore's Finance Minister during its brief union with Malaysia from 1963 to 1965. The documents reveal the activities which took place in the year prior to Singapore's secession from Malaysia in August 1965, with Malaysia being the albatross referred to in the name of the file.

    Growing up in Singapore, we were taught that Singapore's expulsion from Malaysia was sudden and foisted onto it by Malaysia, and that it was driven by differing views on race and multiculturalism. The Albatross File reveals a different narrative - which was that by 1964, it was clear that Singapore's continued association with Malaysia was unsustainable, and that separation from Malaysia, if not done quickly, would be violent.

    I started the visit by viewing a short film that concisely summarized the events of 1964 and 1965, after which I reviewed various static exhibits on documents in the Albatross File. There were many details in the documents which surprised and disturbed me, but the fact that this information - missteps included - is laid bare for Singaporeans to review and process is something that would never happen in the Singapore I grew up in, so this level of transparency augurs well for the future.

    Anyway, here are some of my key takeaways. My apologies in advance as some of them may lack context for people who are unfamiliar with Singapore's history.

    - By today's standards, this is a textbook case of questionable leadership and stakeholder management. Only four cabinet ministers knew about the separation; the remainder were kept in the dark about the separation until it was a done deal. Beyond that, it looks as if Dr. Goh went rogue (his mandate was to negotiate a new confederacy, which he appeared to ignore as he immediately worked on a full separation). Overall, I didn't think this was a flattering portrayal of Lee Kuan Yew's leadership skills.

    - My apologies if this comes across as heartless. Archival coverage of a tearful Lee Kuan Yew announcing Singapore's independence in 1965 is ingrained into the consciousness of every kid who grew up in Singapore. After reviewing this exhibit, and now knowing that the separation was negotiated and planned, makes me wonder how much of this was an act. While I do not doubt that PM Lee felt a lot of grief that his vision did not work out, he did have a lot of time to process this before that iconic broadcast.

    - The PAP contesting elections in Peninsula Malaysia was horribly misguided, and the decision was made without Lee Kuan Yew's knowledge. Seriously, what were they thinking?

    - The exhibit mentioned that the United Kingdom would have scuttled the deal if they had known about it, but it didn't explain what skin in the game they, and to a lesser extent, Australia and New Zealand, had in this other than their military bases. I suspect that an independent Singapore with its ethnic Chinese majority would have been vulnerable to Communism, but it wasn’t made clear in the exhibit.

    - I know this would have expanded the scope of the exhibition unnecessarily, but I am curious how the separation impacted Sabah and Sarawak, who, per my understanding, primarily agreed to join the Federation because of Singapore. On a side note, I cannot help but wonder what the landscape would be like today if Sabah and Sarawak had seceded with Singapore, and if the British hadn't handed Christmas Island to Australia.

    Regardless of the above, one part of the traditional narrative remained intact for me, which was that Singapore separated from Malaysia in large part because it had a different vision for a multiracial Malaysia - a multicultural, "Malaysian Malaysia" as opposed to the Malay centric policies espoused by key political figures. I for one am glad that Singapore went this route.
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  • Singapore Biennale at Fort Canning

    12 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    I stopped by Fort Canning to look at some of the Biennale art installations there. From Fort Canning MRT Station, I started up the hill to the Fort Gate. Within the Fort Gate was the first installation, Jacqueline Kiyomi Gork's HNZF (Harsh Noise Zen Fountain), a sculpture made of scrap metal from WWII Military aircraft. I quite liked this installation.

    The next installation - Flowers for Africa: Rwanda by Kapwani Kiwanga - was a short distance away. Shaped in the form of an archway, this installation pays homage to structures that were built for Rwanda's proclamation of independence.

    My next stop was the Fort Canning Centre which housed several pieces. My favorite were a series of medieval-style tapestries with maps of contemporary agricultural landscapes sewn into them. These tapestries were called Feudal Fields and they were by Cian Dayrit of the Philippines. There were a few other installations in the Fort Canning Centre which I enjoyed, and others that were pretentious.

    There were a few other installations at other locations around Fort Canning, but I was running late for my dinner appointment, so I gave them a miss.
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  • Changi Chapel & Museum

    13 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    On Friday afternoon, I had a sudden inspiration to trek all the way to Changi, which was over an hour away by MRT and bus, to visit the historic Changi Chapel and Museum on the site of the former Changi Prison where over 80,000 Prisoners of War and some civilians were held during the Japanese Occupation. Apart from people from Singapore and Malaysia, many of the PoWs were from Britain and Australia. The chapel itself was a replica, and the museum featured information about their living conditions.

    Truth be told, I didn't really learn anything new, but I was struck by how the performing arts flourished among the internees as a distraction and outlet from their harsh reality. The internees even set up a Changi University where subject matter experts shared their knowledge and skills. Apart from the informational exhibits, the museum also featured replicas of five murals painted by internee Stanley Warren.
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  • Singapore Biennale at Orchard Road

    14 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    My friend Min and I checked out the Singapore Biennale installations at Lucky Plaza and Far East Shopping Centre, which are two of the least glitzy malls in the shopping district.

    The first installation we saw was On a Clear Day You Can See Forever by Tan Pin Pin. In this exhibit, two films are shown concurrently. One shows Inuka, Singapore's captive born polar bear swimming in his enclosure, and the other shows scenes from a car driving along the Pan Island Expressway. Ostensibly, this was to show two types of movement juxtaposed.

    The second installation was State of Assembly by Gabriela Golder, and the last was a mockup of a Filipino home karaoke room which was especially poignant because Lucky Plaza is a gathering place for Filipino migrant workers.

    After Lucky Plaza, we trooped over to Far East Shopping Center. The first three exhibits were pretentious. The last exhibit we saw was Entropy Study and Cloud Gazing by Yuro Pattison which showed building models from real estate developments in China. We quite liked this last one.
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  • Mural Hunting at Joo Chiat

    15 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    I recently learned that some murals have appeared in the Joo Chiat area in the last few years, and I decided to make a trip out into the area to explore. I had a secondary reason for going there: back in 2023, I discovered my great grandmother's home address from her obituary, and I more recently learned that my mother briefly lived that house. Although the house is long gone, I wanted to visit the site.

    Starting out from Marine Parade Station, I walked one block up to East Coast Road where I turned west and explored a couple of murals. I then went to Joo Chiat Road to check out several more murals before turning east onto Koon Seng Road to admire the preserved Peranakan row houses. At the far end of Koon Seng Road, I found my great grandmother's house and took a couple of pictures. I then doubled back to Joo Chiat Road and East Coast Road where I had a lunch of katong laksa, a specialty of the area, before continuing my mural hunt and treating myself to a curry puff and coffee at a very old school coffee shop.

    There were a couple more murals on the periphery of the area, but I decided not to explore them as my left knee was hurting from tendinitis. Perhaps on a future trip I will explore those murals and also visit the private Peranakan museums in the area.
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  • Singapore to Nadi

    16 lutego, Singapur ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Fiji Airways FJ362 | SIN/NAN
    Business Class
    Airbus A330-200 | DQ-FJT Island of Taveuni
    ATD/1339 | ATA/0410+1
    Marhaba Lounge

    I took the MRT to Changi Airport, made my way through immigration, and onto the Marhaba Lounge where I had a quick pitstop for lunch.

    I had previously flown Fiji Airways from Honolulu to Adelaide and so I was already familiar with their warm and friendly soft product, albeit in economy. This flight in Business Class was similarly friendly and warm. I was addressed by name and I had an outstanding cabin crew named Bale serving my aisle. Their angled lie flat seat on their A330 isn't industry leading, but I understand their A350s have full lie flat seats. Business Class was completely full on this flight; I think FJ filled the cabin with nonrevs, including my seatmate.

    As for catering, I loved that they had vegetarian options on their menu, and they even offered choices for their appetiser. Execution wise, lunch was good but not outstanding. The (tiny) appetizer and main were served on the same tray; they could have been served in separate courses given this was a long daylight flight. The fish on their signature ika vakalolo was way overcooked. The Indian pre-landing breakfast was tasty and filling.

    FJ362 was the first flight into Nadi that morning, arriving at the ungodly time of 4.10am. I cleared immigration and customs in no time.
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  • My Introduction to Fijian Hospitality

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Prior to my Nadi layover, I asked my friend Alex, who had recently visited Fiji, for his recommendation for drivers in Nadi, and he put me in touch with Sam. I contacted Sam and we agreed that he would collect me from the airport at 6am.

    As mentioned in my previous post, I landed in Nadi at 4.10am. I didn't ask Sam to come to the airport this early because I knew it would be dark and there wasn't any point to starting my day tour this early. So, I sat in a designated waiting area in the arrivals hall until 6am. I was pleasantly surprised that, despite a number of yellow taxis nearby, not a single taxi driver attempted to solicit my business until I was out on the curb.

    At 6am, I made my way out and met Sam, who turned out to be a friendly and engaging chap. Sam explained that his father Shiu would drive me for the first part of this day tour, and that he would take me to his home for the handover. Truth be told, I was happy to do this as I am always interested in seeing how people live.

    Sam's village is a 20 minute drive in the foothills southeast of Nadi. We drove through his village, where he pointed out the schools, shops, and places of worship. We then went to his house where I met his wife, four children, and dog. Sam's second child turned 11 on this day, and I wished him a happy birthday. His wife made me a pumpkin stuffed chapati for breakfast; this was a pivotal moment as Sam assessed then and there that I am a respectful traveler and that I could handle authentic, non-touristy food. Later in the day, his wife actually contacted him to invite me for a curry lunch, but, unfortunately, it would have been impractical for us to return there for lunch.
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  • Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    At Sam's house, I transferred to his father Shiu's vehicle, and he drove me to our first stop of the day, which is Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple located in Nadi. This is the largest Hindu temple in the southern hemisphere, and Shiu specifically brought me there early in the morning because visitors are required to be barefoot in the temple and the ground would get hot later in the day.

    The temple itself was nice and ornate. My favorite part was were the ceiling murals which I recorded in a video taken from the exterior of the building (cameras are not allowed while inside). Most of the ceiling murals were recently painted. While I was recording the video, a monk started ringing the bell and I could hear percussion instruments. I looked out for a percussion band and was surprised to observe that the sound came from a old school machine. I really wish I could video the machine, but recording is not allowed in the worship hall.
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  • Denarau Island

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After the temple, we headed to the glitzy tourist resort area at Denarau Island. Truth be told, I was barely interested in seeing a resort area, but I suspected we would struggle to fill the day, so I went along with it. Denarau looked a lot like Kāʻanapali on Maui, with golf courses along the road, and driveways into expensive resorts. We made a quickstop at Port Denarau where I saw where tourists board their ferries to the resort islands. Czytaj więcej

  • Farmers Market

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Our next stop was a Farmer's Market close to Nadi Airport. I was already familiar with most of the produce on display, but I did learn what kava roots look like. While the handicrafts were nice, I have no desire to accumulate more stuff, so I gave them a quite look see and then headed onwards. Czytaj więcej

  • Garden of the Sleeping Giant

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After the Farmer's Market, we headed north of Nadi to the main attraction in the area, the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. Earlier in the day, Sam pointed out the profiles of the two giants - one male and one female - in the mountains surrounding Nadi. It took as little bit of imagination, but I could see the profiles.

    At the reception area, I paid the entrance fee and then made my way into the gardens, starting first in a passageway with some orchids, before hitting a lily pond. At this point, I chose to take the path uphill to the viewpoint. It was already quite hot and, even though it was a short hike, I was pretty tired with the heat and jetlag by the time I got to the summit. There, I enjoyed a panoramic view of Nadi and the surrounding islands before making my way back down. When I returned to the reception area, I found Sam waiting for me; he and his father had switched cars and he was to take me for the rest of the day.
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  • Tifajek Mud Pool & Hot Spring

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Close to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant was the other highlight of my day tour, the Tifajek Mud Pool and Hot Spring, also known as the Sabeto Mud Pool and Hot Spring; Sabeto is the name of the area, while Tifajek is the initials for the owner of the land and her six children.

    At the entrance, a local guide named Moni took me under his wing and showed me the area, starting with the source spring with its 80C water, and then to the mud pool itself, and then the other two pools. Water from the source pool is piped to these three pools and maintained at 40C.

    At the mud pool were two buckets of mud that were extracted earlier from the pool. There, I was instructed to slater myself with the mud and wait for it to dry before dipping myself in the mud pool. Once clean of mud, I could then go to the other two pools.

    I really enjoyed my visit to this site. It was fun and refreshing and it did wonders to stave off the fatigue and jetlag.
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  • Lautoka

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    From the mud pool, we drove north to Lautoka, Fiji's second largest town. En route, we stopped at Ramlu's, a local curry house colocated with a gas station, for a satisfying fish curry which cost FJD8. When I consumed his wife's chapati that morning, Sam assessed that I could handle local cuisine and that he didn't need to bring me to dine at tourist restaurants, so he felt comfortable taking me to this spot. His wife had actually contacted him a few minutes earlier to invite me for lunch, but we were too far out to make it back in time.

    After lunch, we took a quick look around Lautoka, including a small botanic garden, some sugar mills, the port, and a park along the coastline. Sam was clearly struggling to find things for me to see and do since I wasn't interested in shopping and stuff. But, I appreciate the effort he put in to fill the time.
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  • Fijian Village

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our final stop of the day tour was a Fijian Village at the spot where the Melanesians first arrived and dispered in Fiji. A guide named Cindy showed me around the village, which is still lived in. While I was there, I witnessed a village elder making an announcement on a loudhailer, after which three other men showed up and they sat down for some kava and conversation. Czytaj więcej

  • Nadi to Christmas Island

    17 lutego, Fidżi ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Fiji Airways FJ822 | NAN/CXI
    Business Class
    Boeing 737-MAX8 | DQ-FAF Mamanuca Islands
    ATD/0006 | ATA/0653
    Fiji Airways Premier Lounge

    Sam dropped me off at Nadi Airport just after 4pm. I appreciate that I might have been a challenging customer because I wasn't keen on the traditional stuff tourists do, but Sam did express his appreciation that I was respectful and genuinely interested in learning about their culture and way of life.

    I enjoyed my day tour of the west side of Viti Levu, but there clearly wasn't enough to fill a 19 hour layover. If I were to do this layover in the future, I would take a domestic flight to Suva and explore the capital for the day. I understand there are some interesting museums and colonial architecture there.

    I still had over seven hours until my flight. At Nadi, extra security screening is required for US-bound flights, and I learned when I got to the counter that check in for my flight did not start until 7pm. Fortunately, the checkin agent exercised her discretion and told me I could check in at 4.40pm with the earlier US-bound flights.

    Once checked in, I made my way to the Fiji Airways Premier Lounge where I had a nice shower which helped me recover from a hot day of sightseeing. After that, I grazed on and off on the buffet. The Fiji Airways Lounge was pleasant, but it was small and located in an area without natural light. As more travelers from US-bound flights trickled in, it got crowded and loud. I plugged in my earphones and watched movies to while my time away. The lounge emptied out as the Los Angeles, Dallas/Fort Worth, and Vancouver flights departed, leaving only Honolulu and Narita passengers.

    I made my way to the nearby gate at 11pm, only to discover that the flight was delayed. The reason for delay wasn't clearly explained (the gate agent just said something about having to arrive in Christmas Island after sunrise) and no revised ETD was shared, but with my prior airline knowledge, I surmised that if the flight departed as scheduled we wouldn't arrive at CXI before daybreak, and we would not be able to land there because the facilities there are limited. I was slightly annoyed because they most likely knew of the delay in advance and I could have spent a little more time in the lounge.

    The flight was only delayed 16 minutes. In Business Class, there were six passengers; I suspect two were airline staff. The flight was another pleasant experience, and I managed to get some sleep after quickly consuming my supper. After about 4.5 hours of flying, we descended over Christmas Island, also known as Kiritimati, just as dawn was breaking.
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